“You better learn fast, you better learn young, because someday never comes.” – Lyrics to Someday Never Comes, Credence Clearwater Revival
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.
Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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Bugging Out Via Boat, by The Odd Questioner
Let’s look into the near future, when the Schumer has just hit the fan, or is just about to. You have no doubts that things are going to go heinously wrong, and not get better. Now what? The roads are likely jammed, even the rarely-used rural ones. Maybe rains have rendered the dirt roads impassable. You might be able to make it to your sanctuary/bug-out location/palace/bunker, but it will take more gasoline than you have to get there.
So – do you give up and resign yourself to be a walking refugee? Not necessarily. What about that big fishing rig you have trailered in your garage? What about all that boat of yours sitting down at the marina? So why not use that big river nearby to make your getaway?
I’m willing to wager that most preppers have, even in the extreme, carefully considered their car or truck, and have centered their plan around fitting everything into the back of the rig and driving down to your bunker, preferably far away from public highways and freeways. Am I right?
Now, if you live in most desert or heavily mountainous areas, this is probably not an option. However, if you live near a navigable river, this gives you an option that a lot of folks simply do not have, and you may want to at least consider it. Let’s look into this a bit deeper and I’ll show you why I think you should do so, and what to consider if you do decide to include boating in your escape plans.
Pros and Cons
Why to do it
Unlike moving around on a car, making your egress on a boat gives you a lot of advantages that you simply cannot get on dry land:
- No traffic jams once you’re out on the water.
- If your bug-out location is downstream, you won’t need a lot of gas to get there, if at all.
- If you have a sailboat and know how to use it, and the river is big enough, you don’t need gasoline most of the time, and have a far larger range.
- Even the most dirt-poor prepper can fill an old canoe full of supplies and get somewhere with it.
- An earthquake can slosh a river around, but at least it won’t bury you or render your route completely impassable (now near/on the ocean? Things may get dangerous – especially with Tsunami threats, but inland you’re generally in better shape, and the greatest danger will likely be seasickness).
- Everyone else in town will be too busy trying to drive out of town. If you plan it right, river egress will insure that you’re not going to be stuck behind sheet metal boxes full of anxious, panicked or near-panicked people all trying to get out of Dodge.
- Unlike that mega-prepped off-road beast of a truck, the parts are easier to maintain and improvise if you have to, and if you have a sailboat, won’t require too much in the way of petroleum to keep maintained.
- A good sailboat isn’t going to be disabled by any electromagnetic pulses.
- If the boat is big enough, you can literally live on the thing for as long as you have to. It also gives you something really important: more room to store critical stuff!
With advantages, come disadvantages. To be fair, let’s cover the important ones. After all, our favorite law-maker Mr. Murphy loves to get out on the water too, so…
Why not to do it
- If you own a motorboat and your bug-out location is far upstream, you’re going to need a whole lot of fuel to get to it. Fail to plan for this, and you’ll be out of gas and floating down river… right back to where you just escaped from.
- You have to either insure that your boat is pre-packed, or you’re going to have to transfer everything from truck to boat once you get there – the latter is probably not going to be fun, and will be a huge calorie/energy burn-off.
- If you screw up and wreck your car or truck, you can grab your stuff out of the wreck and still be able to take the vital items with you. But if you screw up and wreck your boat, odds are good that your stuff is going down with the boat. You can mitigate this somewhat (keep a small go-bag on deck within easy reach), but otherwise, if you wreck it hard, your stuff will either sink, or float down river for some other lucky guy to get their hands on.
- If you fail to plan ahead, you might get stuck behind a dam, lock, or other river hazard. (I will cover this later).
- If you fail to plan for alternative launch points, other folks may have the same idea, and that trusty old boat ramp you planned to use may be jammed full of people trying to do the same thing you’re trying to do (and at certain times of day/week/year, it may also be full of people trying to get their boats *out* of the water and get home). We’ll also cover this a bit later.
- If you live on the coast, your efforts may be frustrated by Tsunami, debris, and other things that will totally screw your plans over. Not the end, but something you have to plan for.
- If you live in an arid or semi-arid area, that river may be too low to safely navigate (or completely dry in places) during the dry season.
- Getting to the river in a panic situation is going to be a bit tougher what with that big, heavy trailer back there and all. You’re going to have to be a bit more careful than all of the panicked and careless people around you.
- It will take a lot more time to get from point A to B. Even a relatively fast boat won’t go much faster than the equivalent of 25 miles per hour (while this will be a lot faster than a car stuck in a massive traffic jam, it’s still pretty slow if you’re trying to escape a really bad situation).
Now consider all of that for a moment or four… I’ll wait. Oh, and while you’re thinking, keep one big thing foremost in your mind: You only get one shot at escaping town. Screw it up, and you won’t get another. Now, let’s take a moment to think…
(…cue some pleasant interlude music here… at least five minutes long. Seriously. Thinking hard now saves having to do it at a bad time later.)
All done? Good. If you decided to consider your boat (or hey – get one), awesome… read on. If not, then feel free to entertain yourself by reading on anyway.
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What to Consider First
Look at your route. Are there any dams, locks, or low bridges along the way? How deep are the rivers, anyway? How wide are they? Do they have commercial traffic (barges, local cruise ships, cargo ships) on them? Are you going to pass or be in the way of the Navy or its bases (they may get touchy if you come too close to them)? Are there any well-known (and even not-as-well-known) hazards out there? Is there anything along the way that can foul your propeller (fishing nets, trotlines, heavy weeds/plants, etc)? Does any part of the route ice-up in the winter (and if so, how badly?)
Look at your entry and exit points. How close is your bug-out location to the river or waterway that you intend to use? How close is your boat (at home) to the location where you intend to drop the boat into the water? How many places are there nearby where you can launch your boat, with or without a boat ramp (remember, your boat is going to be rather heavy with all that stuff in it). Are you familiar with beaching a boat safely (well, at least long enough to get your family and all of your stuff off of it)? If you have it docked at a marina, you’ve saved yourself at least some trouble, but how close is that marina? Can you get to the marina in a hurry? Is the marina guarded well enough to pre-position most of your SHTF gear in it? How crowded is the marina, and how close is your boat to the jetty (err, marina exit)?
Look at your boat. How big is it? What is its maximum draft (depth below waterline when absolutely full)? What is the fuel efficiency if it has an engine? How fast can it go (remember, speed is measured in nautical miles per hour, or knots)? Can you put up a rain cover or other type of temporary shelter? Is it ocean-worthy? How much can you pack in there, anyway? What shape is it in – is it well-maintained? How much punishment are you sure it could take? (Note that I didn’t say “do you think”, but “are you sure”) How many people can you seriously carry along if you have it full of your SHTF gear? How much fresh water can it hold? When was its last tune-up? How quickly can you de-winterize it if you had to?
Finally, look at your own skills. Are you 100% familiar with your boat? Are you capable of fixing the motor if it breaks? If you have a sailboat, can you actually use it under sail? Could you launch it without using a boat-ramp? Can someone else (spouse, kids, etc) navigate/sail/fix the boat in a pinch?
What Kind of Boat?
I know… lots to think about. Take your time. If everything is still good to go, then let’s look at how to different types of boats will behave in a SHTF situation. I’m going to split this into a few different categories, so feel free to skip the ones that don’t apply to you. If you’re planning to actually buy a boat (for some other reason, I trust), then perhaps the following may help influence what else to look for in a boat beyond the primary reason (fishing, water-skiing, parties, etc).
Sailboats
If you have a sailboat, you’re actually in almost the best shape. As long as you can avoid underwater hazards that may break your keel, you’re good to go. Odds are almost 50/50 that a sailboat is kept at a marina, though a lot of this will depend on cost, size of boat, etc. You can trailer them, but launching will require a few extra steps.
A good first tip is to get to know (and I mean know very well) the prevailing wind patterns all along your intended route. Next, be sure you know how to actually sail, and keep your sails in top condition. An extra sail or two (and better, a kit to patch your sails with) would be an excellent investment.
If you have a boat large enough to be considered as a saltwater or ocean-going vessel, then your list of potential bug-out locations just got much larger. While I wouldn’t cross the Pacific in a 25’ sailboat, a sailboat that size can travel along the coastline in fairly good weather for hundreds, if not thousands of miles, depending on your supplies. You could conceivably get to South America with the thing if you had to, and East-coast residents could get to Canada *very* easily by traveling off the coast. If you intend to do this, just one thing – learn as much as you can about sailing and ocean navigation, and get your butt out there to rack up some experience doing it.
If your sailboat is trailered, you may want to consider launching it under various conditions well before a SHTF event begins in earnest. Sailboats with removable or retractable keels are more flexible.
Pleasure Motorboats
This includes most boats – from bass fishing boats, to ski boats, to big and average sized pleasure cruisers… these are boats you’re most likely to find parked in a suburban garage (just note that pontoon boats are something we’ll shove out to its own category).
For these boats, depending on size, you actually have a surprising amount of room to store things – in, on, and around the boat. Your main concerns however involve three things: range, speed, and keeping the motor(s) in top condition. In river/lake conditions, you will be best served by going downstream as much as you can, in order to increase your range. If your boat manufacturer sells auxiliary fuel takes, look into getting them – but know that if/when you do, you’ll be cutting down your storage space, so keep that in mind and balance the two.
Unlike sailboats (which generally have small motors for navigation) you will have speed and maneuverability. You can get around situations and objects more easily, and can move along far faster; while not even half as as fast as an automobile, your top speed is not half bad, especially once you consider how slow the freeway speeds will be during a mass unorganized evacuation.
The smaller boats, especially the open-hulled ones, have more flexibility than most when it comes to fuel and engine power, but be sure to balance your fuel supplies against storage space, and be sure that the motor’s horsepower isn’t larger than the hull is rated for (your boat should have this information on the nameplate). Also be sure to not exceed the maximum capacity of the boat – open hulls will take on water quite easily.
Outboard motors are far more flexible than inboard ones, but otherwise the only real difference is in how much horsepower the motor(s) have, and the additional storage space an outboard motor will give you (as opposed to the space taken up by the engine if it’s inside the hull).
Overall, as long as your bug-out location is near water, and you can get your boat launched quickly, even if it happens during a mass panic, you’re in pretty good shape.
Pontoon Boats
You know what these things are – the big ‘party barge’ boats that can carry an amazing number of people (or stuff) per square foot. They usually have a lot of fuel, and can carry a lot of stuff. With their generally shallow draft, they can get into some very shallow water without getting hung up. They also have a lot of features that would make things relatively comfy in a SHTF situation: perhaps a propane grill, a refrigerator, something to keep the rain and sun off of you, etc.
But… while you may start thinking that this would be the best type of boat to have and use, the truth is going to be ugly… these are going to be the toughest type of boat to use when you’re busy bugging-out. There are three reasons for this: First, these boats are made for leisurely cruising, so they can be painfully slow when compared to most other types of motorboat, even at top speed (which in the Pontoon’s case will burn fuel at a horrendous rate). Second, even though you can get a whole lot of stuff packed onto one, it’s all contributing towards making the pontoon boat top-heavy – so you have to be a lot more careful about what you pack, where it all gets packed, and how you pack it. Third, if the water or the weather gets really rough, you’re in the greatest danger (next to a canoe) of getting swamped, and even in milder conditions, you stand a good chance of getting you and your stuff quite wet from spray. While tenting/tarping and similar accessories will mitigate this, the design leaves you quite exposed overall.
The good news is that these boats can be the easiest to launch and beach, due to their very shallow draft. If your route is fairly calm and relatively free of nautical traffic, you can pack a lot of things on one and get to where you need to go – so long as your destination is within range and you don’t go nuts with the throttle.
Canoes, Kayaks, and Personal Watercraft
Canoes and Kayaks are actually quite an awesome way to bug out if you think about it – you can get to places that no other boat can even hope to touch, and as a bonus, you can portage the canoe or kayak from one waterway to another. It also takes up very little room in your garage. Launching one doesn’t require a boat ramp, or even a trailer – pick any old spot of shoreline, throw it no top of your car or truck (with your stuff in the vehicle) and you’re good to go.
The biggest downsides are exactly two: very (very!) limited space, and that paddle which you’ll be using constantly. You can mitigate that last bit somewhat – a quick sail rig and a keel-board lashed to a canoe can help things along if you know how to sail (or just plan your bug-out location downstream). A small trolling motor would make things easier, but know that using one eats away at your precious storage space, and that it will have a fairly limited range of just a few miles (maybe 10) at best. However, that first bit remains a constant – you can only pack so much stuff into that space, so you may want to focus on just the essentials. If you add more than one person to the trip, multiple canoes or kayaks are better than one, though keep in mind that you could get separated.
It is fairly obvious that your speed is going to be extremely slow, but you make up for that in maneuverability and in the number of places where you can go that the big boats cannot.
A Kayak would be pushing it on the bottom end, because you could, at best, [with a two-man kayak] fit enough stuff in there to be the equivalent of perhaps four or five go-bags (depends on how big that go-bag of yours is, but…)
Jet-Skis? Well, maybe, maybe not… but probably not. The Jet Ski is very fast as far as boat speeds go, but will run out of gas in just a few miles, and can carry perhaps a go-bag’s worth of stuff at best. It will also soak you to the bone with water – not a pleasant thought in the middle of winter. That said, if you really, positively, absolutely have to get (at most) five miles downstream in a hurry with only the things you can fit in a backpack, then I suppose you could do it. I don’t think I’d ever plan for using one, let alone relying on one for escape, though.
Other Vessels of Note
This is mostly a catch-all, but some other vessels that you might come across and/or have are things like…
* Houseboats (like pontoon boats, only bigger, a bit slower, but far more useful because of the amazing amount of storage you have, so long as you have the fuel and the water is deep enough). An awesome way to go in some SHTF circumstances, but since they’re mostly confined to larger lakes and very large rivers, the range is going to be fairly small (depending on the waterway, of course).
* Speed-boats (not the big professional racing rigs, but that backyard project type with the really big engine in it). Use it only if all other options (including by car/truck) are off the table. The speed is comparable to that of a car on a freeway, but storage is going to be very cramped at best – you’d be lucky to fill an old Beetle with the storage space. These boats are tough to handle at high speed during good times – it’ll be even tougher when you’re trying to evacuate in a hurry. They’re rather fragile and eat a horrendous amount of fuel, leaving you with a very short range.
* Catamarans (from the humble “Hobie Cat” to the big ocean-going ones). These depend on size, and if big enough (at least 20’ long), should be taken under the same consideration as sailboats. While a lot more stable than almost any other type of boat, it will have a wider footprint, which can get in the way on narrow waterways.
* Rowboats (that is, a common open-hulled boat that one or two people can pick up and move). Only if you have to – some models can handle some rather rough water (especially those specifically made for rapids), and can carry a moderate amount of supplies. However, it’s all manpower unless/until you put an outboard motor on the back or a sail and keel in the center.
* Inflatable/combo boats (that is, any type of boat that completely has to be inflated, or has inflatable components). There is an advantage in having something you can practically launch from anywhere, yet hold a lot of gear. That said, you will definitely want to keep an air compressor handy when it comes time to get that thing inflated in a hurry. Also, you’ll really want a good high-volume air pump and emergency patch kits ready. Mind you, unless it is big enough to hold the contents of a short pickup bed and has a motor, you may not want to bother. Note that these boats would be considered as strictly inland vessels.
Best Places to Consider a Boat
There are many areas in the United States where using a boat as a means of escaping town during an SHTF scenario would not only make sense, but would maximize your chances of survival.
In general, using a boat is excellent for consideration if…
- You live within 2 miles of a navigable river or other open and navigable waterway
- Your bug-out location is within 1 mile of a navigable waterway, and is down-stream (and in cases of ocean routes, down-current) of your starting point
- You have more than one location or facility within this range from which to launch a boat, if it isn’t already docked in an easily-accessible marina
- Your bug-out landing has a good spot to dock (or at least beach) the vessel temporarily (once the boat is empty, you might want to camouflage it, or jettison it entirely after stripping it for useful parts)
- You can get to any of your launch points by multiple routes that are not heavily traveled.
- The water route is not prone to constant flooding, or (in ocean cases) if you can get at least 5 miles offshore quickly in order to avoid Tsunami situations should one arise.
You can get by with using this method (though not as perfectly) if…
- You live within 5 miles of a navigable river or waterway – just plan for it, and know that you may be delayed if you have to move quickly.
- Your bug-out location is within 3 miles of a navigable waterway (because you and your fellow refugees are going to have to carry all that stuff from the boat to your bug-out location)
- Your bug-out landing is upstream, but comfortably within the range of your boat’s fuel supply (just remember to keep the tank full, eh?)
- You have at least two ways and two places where you can launch your boat, or the marina is at least somewhat easy to get to
- Your bug-out landing has at least a halfway decent place to tie the boat off to shore until you can empty it
- You can at least get to any launch point without having to use or cross a major road or highway.
- The water route is at least free from flooding most of the year, or (in ocean) you can at least get several miles offshore quickly if an earthquake is reported.
Anything less than these conditions and you will have to do a lot more research –perhaps a car or truck may be a better option, but you’ll have to determine that for certain on your own.
Example Scenario – How to Research
Now that we’ve touched on a few subjects, let’s put it into perspective, and do a scenario which can be useful.
I live in Portland, Oregon metro area. Let’s say that I can get to the Willamette River in very short order if things go bad. This gives me a couple of options for bug-out areas that could never be reached normally via car or truck (at least not easily – we’re kind of surrounded by mountains and rivers here). Let’s do some research…
One option would be to go up the Columbia River a bit (by way of the Willamette), take a turn up one of the many somewhat navigable rivers that pour into it, and find a new home in Oregon or Washington State, and have all the gear I need to settle in reasonably well. Exploring that option, I find that I can only go as far upstream as the town of Bonneville, because there’s a huge hydro dam sitting in the way. They have locks for commercial barges, but a hard and fast rule is that you must not rely on such things to be open during a SHTF situation, so that’s about as far as I can reasonably get upstream. So – I can go that far upstream, it is navigable by both motor and sail boats. Since the Columbia River is positively huge and fast-flowing, ice is pretty much not going to be a problem in most years. On the other hand, since the river is huge and fast-flowing, I’m going to either need a sailboat (the winds usually blow right downstream, so it’ll be tacking all the way up), or a motorboat with a *lot* of fuel. If I had a motorboat and found this option worth pursuing, I’d take a trip by boat to see just how much fuel it burned. If I burn half my fuel before I got even halfway there, then I can mark the point with GPS, and then calculate my useful range when I get home. With a sailboat, fuel is no longer a problem, but with all that tacking, it’s going to take a long while to get to that point – possibly more than a day. (Bonus: Do it during the spring and you can have a go at all the salmon coming in from the ocean).
A second option would be to go downstream, maybe go up a tributary on the way down, and make my new home somewhere in Oregon or Washington in the countryside. While definitely easier on the gas (for a motorized vessel), I still have some looking around to do. A disadvantage is that there are a lot of small towns on the Oregon side of the river. Also, the further downstream I go the more large ocean-going cargo traffic I’ll meet up with (either going to or coming out of Portland, or various ports along the way). This means I’ll have to keep a sharp eye out for foundered ships blocking the channel if the SHTF situation causes ships to try at turning around where they really shouldn’t.
Something else to consider – I could go all the way out to the ocean by floating downstream, then have a go at a coastal town along either the Oregon or Washington coasts (both of which are sparsely populated). I have only one real big problem: The Columbia Bar. It can swallow vessels far larger than anything I can afford. (There’s a very good reason that it is nicknamed the “Graveyard of the Pacific”) I can however get across it if I think ahead and know what times of the day that it is safe to cross it (during the incoming flood tide – this means getting some tide charts and keeping a good eye on the clock). Once out on the ocean, if I really want to (assuming my boat is big enough to do this – larger sailboats only would be the best advice at this point), I can go down the coast much farther than up it, mostly due to the prevailing currents along the Pacific Coast. I don’t want to go too far down, because mid or southern California isn’t really the place I want to be for a bug-out situation. Going up the coast can put me deep along Canada’s coastline after a couple of weeks, or Washington State in a few days. I do have to remember one thing, though: If I bug out along any coastal destination, going up a smaller river and getting inland would be a smart idea, preferably far enough in to mitigate any Tsunami effects.
My last option would be to go upstream on the Willamette River, but sniffing along that route, I can only go as far as Oregon City – where there will be a really large waterfall waiting for me to block any further progress. Since Oregon City is somewhat heavily populated (it is often considered to be still within the general Portland area), any point along this route is likely to be full of refugees too, so this option was cast aside.
Some other bits I want to think about (and you can use anywhere!) are as follows:
- No matter where I choose to bug-out, it will pay big-time to get to know the locals there now, while times are still relatively calm. Simply showing up and moving in is likely to make a lot of folks angry. Best idea is to get to know folks in at least two locations, and perhaps buy land at the most likely point. Recon and research is always a good thing, no?
- If I have a big enough sailboat, I could definitely do this. Sailboats are cheap, and don’t eat gas. A 26’ coastal sailboat in good working condition can be had for as little as $6,000 in this area (the cost of a usable off-road rig), and is reasonably ocean-worthy in a pinch if it is classed as a cruiser-type boat. I can pack it with my missus, the dog, a lot of supplies (most sailboats of this size sleep 5-6 people and have an enclosed cabin and head), and be good to go for at least six weeks before I would have to refill the water supply (if I’m careful with it). I could reasonably get to Lower Canada with it, or anywhere along the Oregon or Washington coasts. Upstream along the Columbia would be no problem, at least anywhere below the aforementioned dam. [JWR Adds: True “blue water” capable sailboats are much more expensive.]
- If I do get a sailboat, I’m going to have to learn how to use that thing, and how to use it well. This will require time and training. The good news is that this part can be really fun, and well-disguised as a family hobby.
- Maps, maps, maps. Here, on the way, at the bug-out point and the trail(s) to get to that bug-out point.
- As with any boat, you gotta have good, working equipment, and maintenance.
- I want at least two good routes to get to that boat if I have it tied at a marina, and at least three routes and places to launch it if I don’t.
- If I can get a few fellow preppers to also think and act along the same lines, we can have a small flotilla that can carry a whole lot of stuff – enough to create a new community practically anywhere, which gives us the ultimate flexibility to meet the situation.
- While illegal to use in many jurisdictions, a hand-thown fishing net may not be a bad idea – a practical one takes up only a little bit of room when balled-up. In my neighborhood, springtime + net stands a great chance of providing fresh Chinook salmon along my area of the Columbia River. I’ll have to learn how to use it, long before any SHTF event arrives.
- The Columbia River has a lot of unpopulated islands along the route. There are lots of potential places to tie up and call home (though a few have roads running over or through them, so I’d have to be picky and get up a short-list).
- Before I get too carried away, do I go trailer or marina? A trailer gives me flexibility, at a cost of time. On the other hand, a fully-stocked boat in the garage is a lot more secure than one tied up at a marina.
- The onboard first aid kit had better have a lot of Dramamine in it, and other anti-seasickness medication. Mental note: eat a couple on the way to the boat. Better yet – get my sea legs on long before any SHTF situation. Escaping a city full of panicked people would be the absolute last place and time to be too busy vomiting out over the side, instead of focusing on navigation and security like I should be doing at that point.
- Once at the bug-out location, I’d be better off having a truck (and perhaps a small trailer) waiting there for me, so I can run the couple miles up to it, drive it back to the boat, and load everything up for one trip. The missus can be waiting back at the boat with a shotgun if needed.
- I think this should be enough to kick-start your mind and lead you where you need to go, no?
Conclusion
As you can see, it will take a bit more preparation to bug out by boat than you normally would by truck or Jeep. On the other hand, there are the advantages of less traffic, the ability to carry a lot more supplies along with you, better security (it’s harder to steal from or attack a boat anchored offshore than it is to raid a bunker or encampment), and even have a mobile bug-out location if you find just the right unpopulated spot or island to tie up and call home for a while. The costs can even be just as low as that of a usable 4×4 truck, if you know how to look.
However, it’s obviously not going to work for everyone. For the people that this idea will work for, it makes for a very viable. Just do your research before you warm up to it, let alone commit. Even if it’s a virtual trip along your neighborhood waterways on Google Maps, do the research. Like anything else, more than one plan will make for a better chance of survival, long-term.
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Two Letters Re: The Disappearing Road Quandary
James Wesley,
I’d like to turn the author of the article and others on to Calumet Industries.
I’ve purchased the “PSP” from them in the past and had a good transaction.
I was purchasing them for a slightly different reason – as bridging planks. The PSP is heavier gauge steel dating back to WWII and are a lot stronger than the more modern temporary road bedding. I cut off the connection tabs along the side and welded on some tubing lengthwise on the sides to further strengthen the planks. These are now strong enough to construct a short bridge to broach deep ditches, small deep creeks, etc. They also serve as ramps to climb over lower concrete abutments or steep berms, etc. If you have a vehicle with a very poor approach/departure angle these can allow you to clear obstacles that would otherwise stop you “dead”. They would also serve well as structural elements to set up a temporary barrier or roofing for a dug out position – being strong enough to support sand bags, rock, etc. – Tanker
JWR:
Your reader who wants to build a temporary road may wish to look at landscape fabric as an underlay to his road gravel. He can buy it in 12′ x 300 rolls at wholesale landscape supply yards. This tough fabric will prevent the gravel from being driven into the mud by truck traffic. He will also not need excessive amounts of gravel that he would normally need to replace gravel lost due to truck traffic. 4-to-6 inches of 3/4″[minus] crushed rock should suffice. I would recommend that anyone who wishes to build a gravel or asphalt road use this underlay to stabilize the road bed. It more than pays for itself in reduced maintenance.
Your reader can then scrape up the gravel for use in building drainage or his above grade septic system. Alternatively he can load the building site after freeze up and avoid a lot of expense. It may be cheaper to run propane blowers and tarps to keep new concrete warm than it is to build his removable truck proof road. – LRM
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Economics and Investing:
Does this sound familiar?: Treasury to tap pensions to help fund government. It is notable that the mass media is presently full of headlines about a banking official arrested for rape. But who is going to bring Tim Geithner to justice for raping millions of taxpayers? (On a similar note, SurvivalBlog reader R.E.T. wrote to mention: “If a private company did this, it would rightly be called theft and the CEO would go to jail.”
The Daily Bell interview: David Morgan on the Global Economy, Inflation, Recession and Where Silver Is Headed.
File Under “Sweet Irony”: No, it’s not a story from the Onion: Zimbabwe worried about U.S. dollar as reserve currency, urges move to gold-backed standard
The latest from Michael Pollaro: Monetary Watch May 2011, QE III courtesy of the private banks
Items from The Economatrix:
David Wilkerson: That Dreadful Day (coming economic collapse)
Bank of Mexico Buys 100 Tons of Gold in February, March
Mortgage Rates at 2011 Low, But Many Won’t Benefit
US Warned It Is Heading For An Economic Crisis
Era of US Economic Dominance Warned is Rapidly Coming to an End
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Odds ‘n Sods:
I’m scheduled to be the guest on a podcast with Doc and DEMCAD tonight (Tuesday, May 17, 2011) at 6 p.m. Pacific / 9 p.m. Eastern time. I don’t do many podcast interviews, but I always make the time to talk to my friend Reggie. BTW, one of my previous interviews with him is archived on YouTube.
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Hundreds of herbal remedies now outlawed across Europe. (A hat tip to Marilyn R. for the link.)
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Loyal content contributor K.A.F. sent this: New Yorkers under 30 plan to flee city, says new poll; cite high taxes, few jobs as reasons
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The BATFE: “That bunch has a real corner on stupid”.
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Reader B.R. in Georgia wrote to mention: “Folks who want to buy ghee for storage should go find an [ethnic East] Indian grocery store. They carry Amul brand Ghee that is pure, made the old fashion way and it is in a sealed tin like the New Zealand butter. It does not require refrigeration after opening.”
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“God created the Earth, Mauser drew the property lines.” – Topbanana, a member at the FALFiles Forums
Note from JWR:
We are now just inches away from logging 30 million unique visits to SurvivalBlog. I have an autographed copy of my book “How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It” set aside as a thank-you gift for any blogger with a Alexa traffic rank of 15,000, or less in the U.S. who mentions SurvivalBlog’s 30 million unique visit milestone celebration in their blog, with a link. (Just e-mail me a link to your blog post, and your mailing address.)
Finding Work in Your Intended New Locale
A key goal for many preppers is moving to a lightly-populated region that they deem safe. Except for retirees, the ability to relocate to another state often comes down to the practicalities of finding a job. I hear this all the time from SurvivalBlog readers and my consulting clients.
In the American Redoubt region, jobs tend to be lower paying than those on the east or west coasts. Many jobs are related to forestry, mining, and agriculture. Some jobs–especially in the timber industry–are seasonal. Some of the most stable jobs tend to be in healthcare, in city and county government, and at rock-solid businesses. These include well-established welding shops, supermarkets and hardware stores. There are of course also lots of service sector jobs and government jobs, with varying degrees of stability.
I’d recommend that you not take a job that is dependent on discretionary spending by customers. (For example, businesses related to pools and hot tubs, recreational vehicles, boats and Jet-Skis, home decor, beauty parlors, collectibles, furniture, and so forth.) In hard times, those will be the first businesses to shut down or lay off employees.
The following are some online resources that I’ve found in the five Redoubt States, from reader recommendations and some web searches. (Similar sites can quickly be found, for other states.)
Idaho
Montana
Eastern Oregon
Eastern Washington
Wyoming
Regional: Rocky Mountain / Inland Northwest Region Job Pages
Nationwide Job Search Resources:
- Rural America Employment Search Central
- Agraplacements – Farm and Ranch Jobs
- Job Central
- CareerBuilder
- Monster.com
- JobALot.com
The aforementioned sites are great resources, but don’t rely on just the Internet for your job search. Often, networking through family and church contacts is even more productive.
Remember: It is important to work diligently at finding a job. Do plenty of research and send out lots of resumes. You’ll likely get dozens of “no” responses before you get that all-important “yes”. If there are just a few companies in your target region that might hire in your field, then check their web sites frequently, for their job listing updates.
What if there are no jobs available in your career field, where you plan to live? Though still a rarity, there are some telecommuting positions available. And of course, don’t overlook self employment. If you go that route, then my advice is to launch several small businesses, because odds are that at least one of them will fail.
Pat’s Product Reviews: Smith & Wesson Model 329PD
I know a lot of SurvivalBlog readers are fans of .44 Magnum revolvers – when I did my article on the S&W 329 Night Guard, I heard from quite a few of you. What we’re looking at today is the S&W 329PD – the PD stands for Personal Defense. The 329 PD is a super light-weight .44 Magnum / .44 Special revolver that weighs in at a mere 25.1 ounces. That’s not much weight in a gun that will shoot the powerful .44 Magnum round.
S&W makes the 329PD with Scandium Alloy for the frame, and Titanium alloy for the cylinder – and it all adds up to a super-strong, as well as super lightweight 6-shot revolver. I’ve been a big fan of the .44 Magnum ever since the first Dirty Harry movie came out. I’m ashamed to say it, but I’ve owned more .44 Magnum revolvers than any person has a right to own. My good friend, and fellow gun writer, John Taffin, has also written a book on the .44 Magnum entitled “Book of the .44“, published by Gun Digest. John has forgotten more than I’ll even know about .44s – and he probably has way more .44s than he knows what to do with, too.
The front sight on the 329PD is a high visibility red dot affair, and it really glows in the bright sunlight as well as under cloudy skies. With a 4″ barrel, it’s about all the gun you can carry concealed (where legal), if you wanted to carry this large “N” frame. I personally found this gun a real pleasure to carry concealed – I carried it for two weeks during my test and evaluation. Yes, I actually carry the guns I test! The nicely configured finger groove hardwood grips are nice – but they aren’t made for a lot of shooting. What I did was, I obtained a pair of rubber Hogue grips and put them on the revolver for most of my shooting – what a difference!
The frame and barrel shroud are made out of Scandium alloy and they are finished in a black anodized manner. The Titanium alloy cylinder is grayish is color – the contrast in the two colors was very eye appealing in my opinion. The rear sight is adjustable for windage and elevation. I had to give the rear sight a couple clicks windage to the right – elevation was set where it needed to be for the 240 grain .44 Magnum loads.
Trigger pull on the 329PD was extremely smooth – and in the double action mode, it broke at about 10-lbs. In single action, the trigger was right at 3-1/2 lbs. The nice trigger made hitting the target easy – when I did my part. I don’t know what you could possibly do to the trigger to get it any better than it was on my sample.
There was just “something” about the 329PD that drew me to it – like a magnet. I really liked carrying and shooting the gun – period. It balanced nicely, too. I’m not the world’s biggest revolver fan – more often than not, I’ll be found carrying some kind of semi auto for self-defense work. I enjoy the way I can speed reload a semi faster than any revolver – even with speed loaders.
For my testing, I gathered up quite a bit of .44 ammo. I had 240-gr JHP from Black Hills Ammunition, 240 grain JSP from Winchester – their white box ammo and from Buffalo Bore Ammunition – their 240-gr JHP and 255-gr SWC. John Taffin advises not to load anything more than about a 240-255 grain bullet in these lightweight .44s, as anything heavier may result in bullet jump – where the bullet jumps from the case and ties up the cylinder. I agree with Taffin on this. Besides, I don’t think I’d want to shoot any heavier loads – even though Black Hills and Buffalo Bore sent me some heavier loads.
Look, I’m not about to kid you about the heavy recoil in the 329PD – it was there! About all I cared to shoot during one session was about half a box of ammo. I only shot 6-rounds of .44 Mag with the wood grips during any one session. The recoil was hurting my wrist. Most of my shooting was done with the Hogue rubber grips. However, if you carry this gun, then carry it with the wood grips – if you have to draw and fire the gun in a self-defense situation, you won’t even feel the recoil. But for shooting fun, I’d suggest getting a pair of Hogue grips if you plan an extended shooting session – you wrist and hand will thank you.
Buffalo Bore also sent me some of their 255 grain SWC (Keith style) .44 Special loads. Tim Sundles, who owns and operates Buffalo Bore Ammunition, designed this load to shoot in his own S&W 329PD. Still, these loads are clipping along at about 1,000 FPS. Buffalo Bore doesn’t make wimp ammo!
Winchester sent me their 240 JSP load, and this is a decent round for target practice, as well as medium game hunting – up to the size of large deer. I liked this load – it wasn’t too punishing in the 329PD – all things considered.
Shooting over the hood of my SUV, with a rolled-up sleeping bag for a rest, I was able to get groups in the 2″ range, if I did my part. The winner of the accuracy contest went to the Black Hills .240-gr JHP load – I could get groups down there at about 1 1/2″ if I did my part all the time. The second runner up was the Buffalo Bore .44 Special load, with the 255-gr SWC bullets – this would be a great load for carrying on the trail – it’ll dispatch most of the critters you might come up against.
The Buffalo Bore 240-gr JHP was the most “punishing” of the loads – then again, we’re talking about full power .44 Mag rounds in a revolver that only weighs in at 25.1-oz. The Black Hills 240-gr JHP load, Winchester 240-gr JSP and the Buffalo Bore .44 Special loads felt about the same when I shot ’em – remember, BB really loads their ammo up.
Truth be told, I was very pleased with how well the 329PD shot, and I wouldn’t have any problem carrying the gun concealed all the time. I have one minor complaint, and it’s the fault of the materials used in the gun. The Titanium alloy cylinder would blacken on the end where the bullets exited – powder burns – if you will. After so much shooting, I could no longer completely clean off the blackened burn marks to my satisfaction. Of course, this has no effect on the way the gun shoots – it’s purely cosmetic. I could get most of the burn marks off the cylinder, but not all of ’em. I should also mention, there is a steel reinforcement plate in the top strap of the frame – this helps alleviate flame cutting through the top strap. And, should this steel plate eventually get burned through, send the gun back to S&W and they can replace it. I don’t see this plate burning through unless you fire thousands and thousands of round, though.
Quality doesn’t come cheap, and S&W has a suggested retail price of $1,159 for the 329PD. To be fair, I think this price is in line with the quality you’re getting in this gun. If you’re in the market for a new 4″ barrel .44 revolver of some type, and one that you can carry all day long, and forget that its there, then take a close look at the 329PD. Finding one may take some searching, as they are a bit hard to find, particularly on the secondary (“private party” market.)
– SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio
Letter Re: The Disappearing Road Quandary
Mr. Rawles:
I own a pretty densely-wooded 40 [acre property] in the Upper Peninsula (U.P.) [of Michigan]. The land on 2.5 sides of ours belongs to a timber company, and the land across the road belongs to the state. We live in a typical “stick built” house. It was built in the 1980s, with lots of big windows and two double-glazed sliding [glass] doors. We are four miles out of a town (about 2,000 population) but our house is only 60 feet from a somewhat heavily traveled county road. So our house is what you would probably call a tactical disaster!!!
My wife recently inherited $212,000. We also have about $60,000 saved in silver and gold. We want to use the cash and liquidate a small part of the gold to very quietly (using some contractors from 90 miles away) build a 1,420 square foot aboveground hardened house/shelter at the back end of our property. I’m presently having a civil engineer link up with my architect for the design. My wife calls our little project “The Hatch”, in honor of [the bunker in the television series] Lost. It will be our “fall back”, in case everything goes to heck. It’ll be set up like a regular house with kitchen, bedrooms, and bathroom–all the comforts of home, except windows!
Because we’ve got a high water table here, we plan [to build] it above grade, and then haul in soil to make an artificial hill. The entrance will be hidden by a fiberglass “rock”, like you talked about in one of your old posts [about concealing cave entrances]. (Thanks, for that.) Inside of that [camouflaged door], the main door will be an inward-opening vault door we’ll be getting through Safecastle. The nuclear [fallout protective] ventilator (A.C., with a pedal frame backup) will be out of Ready Made Resources. And we plan to get a Pelton wheel DC generator to power The Hatch. We have a blessing: There is a small river going through the back corner of our land just 90 yards behind [the construction site]. (Yeah, yeah I know, with the [low voltage DC cable] line loss we’ll have to invert to 120 Volts, AC.)
So here is my question: How can I construct a temporary road to the work site, without laying down rock and gravel? It is almost dead level between our house and there. I’ll cut as few trees [to clear the roadway] as possible in a bunch of S-shaped turns so that it won’t look obvious. Here’s what I’m picturing: I want to make the road disappear, after the construction is a done deal. We just want a little footpath that winds through the trees. If I scrape the road gravel back off, it will leave traces of the road, even if I plant trees. And we can’t skip on [using gravel], because the construction will likely start late in June and continue until about October. It would be axle-deep muck if we’ve got all those trucks going back there [with no gravel on the roadway]. So here I am, racking my brain… How do I make a temporary road that I can remove, and not leave a trace? Help! – B.D. in the U.P.
JWR Replies: I believe that the best answer is buying or renting a quantity of military surplus AM-2 airfield matting. These aluminum mats were designed to be laid down on leveled ground and linked together to form military runways and taxiways. Earlier generations were made of steel and are often called Pierced Steel Planking (PSP) or Marsden Matting. (The latter is after the name of the town where it was first produced.) There is also now some Soviet-era Russian military surplus runway matting now available in the U.S.
After you are done with your construction project, you can very likely re-sell the matting, probably at just a slight loss. (Since it is always worth at least its scrap metal value.) AM-2, or its earlier generation steel equivalents can often be found at little more than scrap metal prices through DLA/DRMS sales yards and their auctions.
Good luck with your project.
Letter Re: Nickels or Pennies?
JWR:
Thanks to SurvivalBlog, I have stashed away my share of nickels, but I began to wonder if it could make sense to sort and store pre-1982 pennies, which are 95 percent copper. I’ve done some hands-on research in this area, and I believe there’s a way to accumulate pennies, and do so relatively easily and from an investment point of view, more effectively than nickels.
The Numbers
First, the numbers: If one stashed away $1,000 in nickels, one would have 20,000 coins; each coin is 5 grams, of which 75% is copper and 25% nickel. So, $1000 in nickels is 75,000 grams of copper and 25,000 grams of nickel. That’s just over 165 pounds of copper and 55 pounds of nickel.
However, if one stashed away $1,000 in pre-1982 pennies, one would have 100,000 coins, each weighing about 3.1 grams, of which 95 percent is copper and 5 percent zinc. So, $1,000 in pennies contains 310,000 grams of metal, of which 649 pounds is copper and 34 pounds is zinc.
While the bulk [and weight] of pennies is greater for the money stashed, the amount of valuable metal is greater as well–and the resulting value much greater.
Another way of looking at it is that $1,000 of nickels, as of today’s writing and according to Coinflation.com, has a melt value of $1,261; the equivalent dollar-value of pre-1982 pennies, however, has a melt value more than double that at $2,607.
You certainly get more bang for your storage buck with nickels, but you get more bang for your investment buck with pre-1982 pennies.
For anyone for whom dollars come dearly, finding a way to accumulate pennies should pay off better in the long run than nickels, and while it is somewhat more time consuming to collect pennies that way, one is trading time for greater long-term value. And those who are unemployed or otherwise with time on their hands will find this a reasonable way to leverage their assets.
Penny Sorting Machines
I’d spent time thinking about how to create that “density-measuring” penny sorter that you describe in your “Nickels” blog post. On a whim, I did some surfing, and confirmed that such machines exist! There are at least three basic approaches:
First is a machine that literally weighs the pennies, dropping the good 95% copper pennies–which weigh more–through a counterweighted trap door and allowing the zinc pennies–which weigh less–to pass over without triggering the mechanism. This system is effective, though a bit slow, and relatively inexpensive at about $100.
Second is a coin comparator which is used in vending machines to reject slugs and other nonconforming coins; put a coin of the type you are searching for in the comparator, and it will separate the good from the bad. This device has to be fed the pennies manually, and while faster than the weighing machine above, still takes a significant amount of time. This is the least expensive of the lot, and can be purchased on eBay for around $40. (On eBay, search “copper penny sorter”)
Third is the Cadillac of penny sorters, the Ryedale. This machine also uses a coin comparator but has a feed system which will allow it to sort 18,000 pennies per hour. It is lightning fast, and helps solve the time consuming problem of sorting the good from the bad. It is, however, the priciest at roughly $520, or $550 with extra feed wheel and hopper expanders.
Being a cost-effective sort of person, I first decided to try the cheap route, buying a coin comparator on eBay. It works, and works effectively, with well less than a 1% error rate, but I did not find it easy to feed. I found myself spending much too much time feeding that comparator, sorting only perhaps $30 of pennies an hour. At a 30 percent yield that was $9 of copper pennies an hour; I found that too slow, and my attempts to create a faster feeding system were for naught.
I looked into the Ryedale some more, and found that used machines on eBay were being snapped up by bidders, returning 75% of the purchase cost. That made my decision easy–I could buy a Ryedale, sort the pennies I wanted, and recover most of the cost of the sorter on eBay. This is what I did.
Once I found these machines online, there remained two details to address:is the yield of pre-1982 pennies sufficient to justify my time sorting them and can I get pennies in bulk?
Sufficient Yield?
I live in rural Southern Wisconsin, and so my next task was to see what yield I would get in pennies. I went to three local banks and obtained $5, $10, and $20 in penny rolls from them, or $35 total.
I found a yield of about 35 percent with these pennies, which seemed satisfactory to me. I’ve read that some people sorting pennies achieve only a 20 percent yield, but here in my area I’m consistently in the low 30s on average. I once had a 92 percent yield in a $50 bag, but also once had only a 5 percent yield. It averages out.
Obviously, one trick is to make sure you don’t get your own sorted pennies back. Pennies I get from one specific bank I never take back there for counting and credit. Pennies I get at my other bank–where I take the “bad” pennies for counting and credit–are always pre-rolled and delivered from the regional bank, not from the local supply to which I’m contributing only zinc pennies.
I buy pennies generally in rolls and usually in $50 or more lots. One bank is willing to order and allow me to buy $500-worth of rolled pennies at a time. Another bank also allows me to buy pennies up to $200 at a time in rolls. I have also managed to make an arrangement with them–when they sort coins into bags, they also allow me to buy those $50 bags of unrolled coins, which saves the time of taking the pennies out of the rolls. This is the bank to which I never return my sorted pennies, so those bags never contain my rejects.
One thing I do is make friends with the tellers. What I’m doing is kind of a pain for them, so I’m friendly and engaging. I have taken in some of my “finds” to show them, as they think I’m searching for rare coins as a coin collector–which I am, but I’m also doing more. Last week I found an 1890 Indian Head penny in remarkable shape in one of my rolls, and I took that in to show the tellers as one of the “lunkers” I found during my “fishing” expeditions. They like to hear my stories, and I always oblige.
Unwrapping Rolls
I use an old-fashioned bottle opener such as is used for removing a bottle cap. I use the “hook” which grips the lip of the bottle cap to break open the rolled ends where the paper ends, and it’s easy to unroll them at that point. I unwrap them into a small plastic bowl so I can easily see if there are any paper fragments to be removed. One has to make sure that paper fragments don’t mix in with the coins as they can get caught in the Ryedale sorter. I can unwrap 10 to 12 rolls a minute.
A Few Rare Finds
As I unroll and sort the pennies, I keep my eyes open for older pennies with the Sheaves of Wheat design on the reverse (“Wheats”) or any other rarities. I ran across an 1890 Indian Head, and have found numerous older pennies from the teens and 1920s. I keep the Wheats separate, as I know a local coin dealer that pays 2.5 cents apiece for common “wheats”. And I expect, sooner or later, to hit big on a rare penny.
How I Store Pennies
I’m closing in on my first $1,000 in pre-1982 pennies; I’ve been rolling them in coin wrappers, and storing in boxes which contain $25 in pennies. This makes storing easy as they’re compact, but there is additional cost in buying penny wrappers and the boxes. This makes it easy to demonstrate the pennies are all pre-1982 as each $25 box of pennies will weigh 17+ pounds if they’re 95 percent copper.
There is a time cost in putting the pennies in wrappers. I bought coin counting tubes from MMF Industries which allow one to easily get to about 50 pennies in a hurry. I slide these into a preformed tubular wrapper, and place on a scale to double-check the count (they should be about 155-156 grams). While not overly fast, I find this relaxing, oddly enough, and I have a feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction each time I complete a $25 box.
I’ve also stored some pennies in plastic coffee cans, in which I can fit $35 in pennies. Either way, I’m heading toward my long-term goal of at least a half-ton of valuable copper stored in penny form, and I may even try for a ton.
Eventually, I believe those pennies will have real instead of theoretical melt value; I also believe copper prices will rise significantly over time. And if not, they’ll still be worth a penny each.
Thanks to SurvivalBlog, I have a pretty good stash of nickels. I’ve now shifted gears to pennies. But I’d appreciate it if everyone would wait to descend on the banks until after I have my share. – Mike D.
JWR Replies: Your advocacy of seeking a greater “amount of valuable metal” is arguable, since for many years nickel has has been worth nearly three times as much as copper. In my estimation, saving coins with a higher dollar density makes the most sense. (For that matter, if any significant number of silver coins were still in circulation, then those would be what I’d stockpile “at face value.” But, alas, I was born a generation too late to take advantage of that window of opportunity.)
The key questions for anyone contemplating searching for pre-1982 (95% copper) pennies are: 1.) How strong is my back? 2.) How much storage space do I have?, and 3.) What is my time worth? Those factors are what pushed me toward nickels. At least for now, virtually ALL of the nickels presently in circulation are 75% copper and 25% nickel. (The few 20% silver “War Nickels” minted from 1942 to 1945 are just a nice bonus.) This universality means that asking my teller for $40 in nickels each time I go to the bank takes a negligible amount of time, since there is no sorting required. All of those rolls of nickels go right into .30 caliber ammo cans when I get home. That is “No muss and no fuss.” But how many hours does it take to un-roll, sort and re-roll $1,000 worth of pennies? (Not to mention the time required to return 70% of them, as rejects.) So for me, the choice was clear: Nickels!
But of course your mileage may vary. For someone who is underemployed or retired but yet still has a strong back, the 95% copper penny hunt might be worth pursuing.
In closing, keep in mind that the window of opportunity to acquire large quantities of genuine “Nickels with nickel” without any sorting will likely close in 2012. Once they have been debased, we will be forced to sort nickels. Stock up now, or you’ll kick yourself later for not doing so!
Letter Re: Meat Canning Experience
James,
I would like to add a note to one of the observations of Don M., regarding re-freezing of meat. I too have heard many times that it is unwise to re-freeze meat or fish. I grew up hearing it. Often it is even implied that it is a health risk. Most folks don’t know why; it’s just what they’ve always been told.
Water expands when it freezes, and as we all know, will rupture whatever contains it – even steel pipe. The cells of meat and fish contain a high content of water. When it freezes, it will break the cell wall, leading to poor quality and texture upon thawing. This is not a health risk – just bad for quality. If the freezing occurs quickly, as in a production blast freezer, the cell wall will freeze hard enough before the inner part freezes, to prevent cell wall rupture. The notion of “flash freezing” is with very few exceptions, a myth. Most industrial freezers will bring the product to a core temperature below 0 F in as little as 2 hours and as much as 5 hours (depending on the thickness of the product and the temperature of the freezer). Remember – they are freezing thousands of pounds at a time.
It is a very common practice for fish caught in Alaska to be frozen “in the round” — after removal of heads and entrails. They are then shipped to processing plants elsewhere, thawed, further processed (into fillets or whatever) and refrozen.
If you regularly buy fresh meat and fish and freeze it at home, and are satisfied with the quality, then you should feel comfortable refreezing meat or fish if the need arises, as long as it never gets above refrigerator temperature. I do it often.
Best to You and Yours, – D.B. in Seattle
Economics and Investing:
A 1980 copy of Playboy Predicts the Future for Silver
David D. sent this: Speculation explains more about oil prices than anything else
John R. recommended a series of charts, showing the sad decline of various currencies since 1970: Your Purchasing Power. JWR Notes: As I’ve written before, currency inflation is robbery in slow motion.
Reader Paul G. suggested this by Dave Altig of the Atlanta Fed: Just how out of line are house prices? Clearly, house prices have farther to fall before we see bottom!
Shadow Stat Misery Index Highest on Record
Items from The Economatrix:
Yishai sent a link to this must read new post at Zero Hedge: What does a trillion dollars look like?
Social Security Trust Fund Bonds Will be the “21st Century Version of Confederate Banknotes”
South Carolina Moves to Make its Own Gold & Silver Money
Rising Food And Gas Costs Push Up Consumer Prices
Odds ‘n Sods:
Check out the new Rocky Mountain Survival Institute blog. Great stuff!
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New Army Ammo Puts Mean in ‘Green’
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I just heard that Ready Made Resources has received a small supply of Mountain House freeze dried Diced Chicken, packed in #10 cans. Since the quantity is so small this item is not listed at the company’s web site. To order, please call them at: 1(800) 627-3809.
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Ben L. mentioned this very bad court precedent in Indiana: Court: No right to resist illegal cop entry into home. This is a 180-degree turn from the longstanding common law tradition that any officer of the law who acts extra-jurisdictionally has no more legal defense than a criminal housebreaker.
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SurvivalBlog’s Access Via IP Address contingency plan came in handy on Sunday, as the Third Intifada regional glee club‘s rallies sent ripples through the Internet. It was mostly just sound and fury, but it became clear that there were a few serious cyber attacks. One SurvivalBlog reader in Kuwait wrote me: “[The] DNS is down. I can only get to web sites via their [dotted quad] IP addresses. Our Internet went down five hours ago, on three different service providers.”