Two Letters Re: How Does Your Garden Grow? (After TSHTF)

Hello JWR,
I enjoyed the recent SurvivalBlog article titled “How Does Your Garden Grow”. I like the idea of gardening, but it takes time and a lot of trial and error. I have pursued sprouting as another gardening method. It’s easy to do. I bought my seeds and sprouter from Sprout People. – Ken S.

Hi James,  
We have spent six years getting our garden established and working. Fenced and footed in concrete. Electric wire around the outside to keep out the raccoons. An above ground watering system to each of the 16 plots. Four raised beds 24 inches high, 3′ x 8′ inside dimensions built of reinforced concrete. We had poor soils (silty sandy loam) with a deep layer of blown in soils from the 1930s on top. We have added some 400 bags of steer manure over the years. Last year we applied 4,000 lbs of composted steer manure from a cattle yard. We have adequate water for the garden.   This year we have raised 180 lbs of potatoes. 4 cabbages 4 kohlrabi 4 gallons of strawberries 2 tomatoes 4 gallons of small onions. Our corn crop is failing, our cucumbers are drying up under watering, our okra did not sprout well and those that did during five replantings all died except for two plants. We expect no production from the okra this year. All our beans sprouted well and grew but did not produce any beans and have withered and died under watering our 21 sweet potatoes are looking good but production will only be know in the fall our peppers are stunted and the leaves dried under watering our tomato grew initially mostly in pots and have produced only two tomatoes and look stunted now under watering we have moved the potted tomato plants under the shade of a tree and they are looking somewhat better. If we had to rely this year on our garden we would have starved.

To all those who say “grow a garden and have food”, I say poo bah! You cannot depend on a garden no matter how much physical planning you do. No matter how much water and soil amendments you add. No matter how much care you give the garden to weeding and watering regularly.   The outdoor elements will take away your safety system in an instant. A garden must be only a backup to stored foods.   We have applied the best management we know how to our garden this year. It is really scary to do the best you can with adequate tools and knowledge and still fail.   You must have stored foods. You must be ready to migrate to areas where conditions are more conducive to getting production from the land.   I have seen starvation in West Africa, the Sahel, during a tour of duty with the Peace Corps. It is something that I do not want to see happen to my family. I do not intend to be a parasite under failing political, financial and infrastructure systems.   A regular reader, – JWC in Oklahoma

Economics and Investing:

Entschuldigung, but doesn’t this sound a bit inflationary, for the U.S. Dollar?: Audit: Fed gave $16 trillion in emergency loans to foreign banks.

Worth reading: How Capitol Hill Is Pushing the U.S. Economy to the Edge. (Thanks to Sue C. for the link.)

Chris H. suggested this: Gold shines, but silver is the moneymaker.

Economics Professor: “[We’ll Have] a Never-Ending Depression Unless We Repudiate the Debt, Which Never Should Have Been Extended In The First Place” (Thanks to John R. for the link.)

K.K. sent this: Silver Update: Caught in the act, “The Comex is a completely and utterly corrupt market.”

Gold, Silver Surge After John Taylor Predicts Gold to Hit $1,900 By October

More grim economic news, courtesy of John R.:

A New Surge in Job Layoffs (Dave Cohen)     

“It’s A Cash-Flow Problem”: The Ever Broker US Consumer Increasingly Relying On Credit Cards For Daily Staples

Jim Rogers: Fed Will Launch QE3 by Q3

Greece: Looking for the ‘right’ place to crash (Kurt Brouwer)  

China urges U.S. to boost confidence in debt, dollar  

Items from The Economatrix:

Get Ready For a 70% Marginal Tax Rate

Moody’s Warns Could Cut Five States Tied to US Credit

The Collapse of Paper Money and the Vertical Move of Gold

Gary North:  The US Debt Ceiling Show Baloney

Sales of Existing US Homes Fall, Partly Due to Cancellations

Odds ‘n Sods:

A BFO award to Heidi L. for mentioning that five-round boxes of 12 gauge shells (buckshot or slugs), fit nicely in the standard USGI cotton bandoleers originally made for 5.56mm NATO ammo. What a convenient way to store 35 shotgun shells (5 shells per seven-pocket bandoleer) and have them ready for immediate use! BTW, two bandoleers packed in that manner (70 rounds) fit in a standard USGI .30 caliber ammo can.

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Tom at CampingSurvival.com announced a new 10% off coupon code for all of their Keystone meats and broths.   Great stuff!  High quality, tasty and long shelf life.  This is just a one week sale, so order soon. The coupon code is “keystone“.  

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Reader Steve H. in Texas spotted an interesting article at Townhall‘s Paul Kengor: Could You Survive Another Great Depression? It has a perspective from the writer’s grandparents on what they experienced the last time.)

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Outrage: Fury erupts over Ohio police video; NW activists join debate. Out west, CCW holders are treated much more politely.

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I just heard about an interesting science fiction anthology, titled Grants Pass. Avalanche Lily plans to get a copy, and write a review.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Thou hast set our iniquities before thee, our secret [sins] in the light of thy countenance.

For all our days are passed away in thy wrath: we spend our years as a tale [that is told].

The days of our years [are] threescore years and ten; and if by reason of strength [they be] fourscore years, yet [is] their strength labour and sorrow; for it is soon cut off, and we fly away.

Who knoweth the power of thine anger? even according to thy fear, [so is] thy wrath.

So teach [us] to number our days, that we may apply [our] hearts unto wisdom.

Return, O LORD, how long? and let it repent thee concerning thy servants.

O satisfy us early with thy mercy; that we may rejoice and be glad all our days.

Make us glad according to the days [wherein] thou hast afflicted us, [and] the years [wherein] we have seen evil.

Let thy work appear unto thy servants, and thy glory unto their children.

And let the beauty of the LORD our God be upon us: and establish thou the work of our hands upon us; yea, the work of our hands establish thou it.” – Psalm 90:8-17 (KJV)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 35 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo, and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 35 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Practical Tips on a Cross-Country Move, by P.J.G.T.

We are moving from the East coast to the Northern Rocky Mountains, and here I sit in a Midwestern state at my cousin’s house waiting for a part for our car to be shipped in. So, I thought I’d take this opportunity to put down on paper the best answer I have come up with to a question I had before the move: How do we move our family across country with limited funds, lots of stored supplies and more than a handful of tools? My husband and I are walking a fine line to make this move the best adventure that our family has ever had instead of the worst disaster ever. The key is commitment and determination!

It is a coincidence that JWR recently advocated moving to the American Redoubt states at the same time we are moving to one of them, albeit a very wonderful coincidence. We did our homework. We would have even had our retreat purchased (thus avoiding the “apartment in town” stage) had our teenagers not asked why we would go on this adventure without them. So, we are off…

First, let’s discuss the wisdom of moving an intact family if possible. We had a plan to move from the public corporate world to a much less secure and lower paying career after the children graduated from high school. However, I can now see how much heartache that would have caused. We are a very close family, and it would have caused undue pain to be separated by over 2,000 miles from our adult children. It would also have been a terrible thing to leave our oldest daughter living in the East as the United States disintegrates. We began looking at an eventual move from the East where we were raised when our oldest was only in fourth grade. Back then, things didn’t look like they would go bad so quickly. My parents have already moved to the West, but my husband’s parents are choosing to stay in the East. They will visit. We expect siblings and their families to migrate our way.  I suggest that it is better to move the entire family, including grandparents, if possible. Close extended families are difficult to break apart. However, be determined to go and accept that well-timed visits can do wonders.

Consider your timing. Although my husband’s job doesn’t start until December, we are moving the children this summer. There are several important considerations that determined this.

First, we consider the education of our children as primary. Our oldest is going to be a senior in high school. Senior year is not the time to arrive midway through the year. Our youngest is going to attend a rigorous private high school through a generous scholarship that offset the tuition. If our children were young now, they would never attend public school. However that is not the path we are choosing to take at this time. There is a large, like-minded church community waiting for us in our new town.

Second, I will have to return to work from being a stay-at-home mom, and I am a teacher. August is a better time for me to move as well. I have been able to get my teaching certification and a job as well.

Third, summer is a much better time to travel and move into a new place than fall or winter – especially in the American Redoubt states.

Fourth, my children have had much experience traveling and camping with only Mom, so we know they have the fortitude needed. This gives us a chance to do some additional backcountry camping and exploring as well.

Fifth, sports start in August. What a great way for the children to know classmates before they get to their school. Much can be discovered about a person after two weeks of close and physical team training. Consider the altitude difference and accommodate as needed.

Sixth, having the double income will help with the financial transition. There just are not any available teaching positions back east right now.

Seventh, the empty house will give my husband the time he needs to complete projects to prepare it for sale. Resulting, we anticipate, in a higher selling price and quicker sale. After determining that most of the family would be moving before the school year began, the planning really progressed into high gear. The goal of downsizing was tempered by the idea that if something was valued, it needed to be kept. As we progressed, we began to look more closely at what we valued. It is good to have the opportunity for levels of downsizing to allow for “letting-go.” After our first round of downsizing, we all agreed that it was a benefit and couldn’t believe we had kept so much. As we progressed, we did have to say some sad good-byes. But, as stated, if anything still had value to a family member, it was going to be kept – whether hand-carried, stored or shipped. This has been a major factor in keeping our move an adventure.

What else has worked for us?

* Our youngest applied for and was accepted at the college-prep high school specific to his interests. This was a lengthy process that needed to be completed by a certain deadline to qualify for the scholarship. Watch for deadlines. This allows him a level of excitement that has far exceeded his dread of meeting new classmates and leaving his friends.
* Food that might spoil, was frozen, would be difficult to move and was close to being outdated (by my definition) was used as quickly as possible. Food whose value was not worth the space or weight to move or ship was donated to the local food pantry. This took the place of our purchasing canned goods for such donations. Family members were instructed on what dishes to offer to bring for the many end-of-the-year potluck events so that excess foodstuffs were used.
*Any unopened cleaning supplies and extra light bulbs were sold at a garage sale along with other unneeded and useless items. Eventually we did have to sell items that were just too heavy and/or bulky to move (i.e. the dining room table) or too difficult to move (pretty candles, drinking glasses and glass knickknacks)
*Some things were sold or given away that will need to be replaced either because we knew that another  family really needed the item or it was almost ready for replacing ( I seem to go through dehydrators, and will gladly be looking into a better quality one out West!).
*Many items were listed on Craigslist and taken to the local consignment shop for sale.
*Some items were listed on freecycle.com, given to friends, or put out on the curb for free. In this way, we were able to conscientiously downsize without throwing away items that another family could use.
*We even have loaned out some items for at least a year (piano, kayaks)
*We rented the pavilion at our local park for a nominal fee one Saturday before we left and hosted a good-bye potluck for our friends.  It gave everyone closure. The local pool, a Frisbee and a soccer ball provided an active outlet for the children.
So, how does a family move without using a moving company (not even an option financially) or renting a moving van (costly and it would leave us with a vehicle and trailer to move)? Well, here is what worked for our family:

  1. Find a friend or relative who is willing to store and mail boxes as you have the money and the need for them. We numbered our boxes on the top and all four sides. The corresponding number was put on a list with the contents listed. The USPO has detailed specifications as to what can or cannot be shipped, what size the boxes can be, and how the boxes need to look in order to be mailed. They also offer a( lower cost) media rate if regulations are followed. We packed all our media into separate boxes. It is best to attend to the weight of the boxes as well. A simple check with the post office could save money in the long run. This system has worked well for me in the past. Just remember to be detailed in listing the contents of the boxes, not lose the list, and do not mark what is in the box on the outside (I once had items stolen that I still miss today).
  2. If possible, find a reliable place to store items that cannot be shipped or are too large to be shipped. We have a family camp and are storing some furniture and a number of boxes there until we return next summer to determine what to do with them. This way we do not have to rent a storage unit, and we do not need to get rid of things that are important to us or will be costly to replace. We are storing our winter wheat in new metal trash cans, and leaving some white buckets as well. Label, label, label – having your items clearly identified as your family’s avoids problems and arguments later.
  3. Bring what is important to you! Some may question what we are bringing, but we are moving for good. We are not looking to see if our move will work, we are not on vacation,  and we are not on a long term research project. No, we are committed to this move, and as such it is important not to store all our treasures and only bring the pragmatic items. In fact, many of the pragmatic items can be shipped or brought later. In moving this summer, I will not be canning for the remainder of this year. Therefore, we will bring the canning supplies next trip, or even mail them if needed. I am carrying my rather heavy, but spectacular rock collection. They are not replaceable, but canning supplies are. Funny, but the idea that each person should be able to choose what is valuable is sometimes not remembered in the ruckus of the move. Yet, there are adults who still pine for a special item that was not seen as important by their parents. Take care to consider each other as decisions are made. Do not proceed in haste – make lists and check them twice. Tweak, tweak, tweak
  4. Consider packing clothing and linens in vacuum pack storage bags. These bags are a good way to reduce space. However, remember that some cloth items can be used for padding and to fill spaces in boxes to be shipped. Consider how soon you will need the items and plan accordingly. The bags are said to be reusable, however I find that about half of them will actually be able to be vacuum packed again. The bags can be reused still, however.
  5. We are driving across the country and have planned our route to visit a cousin while taking a much needed break. In fact, that is where I am right now. We are traveling in two groups so my youngest child and I could visit with my parents at the same cousin’s house. This gives our oldest more time to work, visit with friends and earn spending money for the transition to a new community. The car I am driving has a hard plastic storage container (consider purchasing one if you do not own one as they are really durable and hold a tremendous amount) on the roof and is fully packed. We are camping, so our backseat holds the camping equipment, our plug-in cooler, camp stove and food stores. The rest of the car’s contents are items for our move.
  6. My husband and older child will be towing a trailer filled with a snowmobile, bicycles and household items. The have been practicing her towing abilities so she will be able to drive as well. They will also have the two doggies and their kennel. Their goal is to drive as directly as possible across the county. They will be camping if needed, but expect to drive straight through to Nebraska my cousin’s for a visit and a rest, and then finish the trip.
  7. We have scouted out the country for the place that best meets our needs, and have taken some month long camping trips over the years. As a family, we are prepared for this move.  To save even more, we look for free or low cost campsites. National Parks are a good option, but require purchasing an annual park pass. The good news is that it is valid for a year, so purchase it as late in the summer as possible. That way, half of the next summer might just be covered. Some camping in National Parks is free, and most is low cost. State parks can be a real bargain. We also use FreeCampsites.net and choose the “official” sites since we have children with us and are tent camping. I know of one family that travels by night and camps near a playground and pool during the day. Dad sleeps during the day while the children play, and he then drives while the children sleep in the car at night. Other families stay in motels or hotels each night. Do what is best for your family.
  8. Prepare your vehicles ahead of time.  And, as I can attest to, even that may not be enough. Join an organization (we use Good Sam, but have used AAA in the past) that provides towing services and such. It is nice to be able to get into your vehicle after the keys are locked in without ruining your door or paying someone heavily to do so. A rechargeable portable battery “jump pack” jump starter has come in very handy – especially when someone has left the interior truck light on after a late night venture to get their pillow. It can be charged while driving if needed. I never let my gas tank get too low. Better to fill up one extra time than run out of gas.
  9. Pack a tote bag for the rest stop – include personal items (nothing refreshes like a washed face and clean teeth after driving for twenty hours), some activity toys for the children (soft football, Frisbee, blow-up beach ball) to use for a few minutes, and any messy fruits and foods to eat. Switching the activities by stop or state keeps things hopping. We also carry gallons of water to refill drink containers.
  10. A plug-in cooler is a gift for traveling. As it cannot take ice and melted water, I like to freeze plastic water bottles ¾ full of water, unsweetened iced tea or juice. I also like to stock some treats for when the ride gets taxing to ease the tensions. The cooler is a good way to keep fruit and veggies cool, as well as cheese and yogurt. Or, whatever foods your family likes to eat. When there is room, I like to keep the bread in the cooler to keep it from being squished. Our cooler has an electric adapter that can be plugged in if we camp with access to electricity. A large black piece of plastic covers it nicely in case of rain and to keep it out of sight.
  11. We also find a DC-to-AC inverter to be a lifesaver for recharging phones and running any electric items you might want to have. It saves having multiple chargers for items that might be electric. (like this one.) An inverter also allows for listening to audio books or viewing DVDs on a laptop. We are watching a Teaching Company series on physics as our son will be taking that class this fall. Just remember to unplug the inverter when you leave the car.

Each family needs to consider what is best for them. As we decided to move earlier than planned, we needed to find ways to move that cut costs and eliminate the problem of what to do with our possessions that we may want or need in the future. The possibility that we would have worked so very hard to live the self-sufficient life and have to give it all away propelled my husband and I to look at this move as a multi-step process. We are so very blessed, and hope that what we have learned might be of use to another family heading out.

Pat’s Product Review: Century Golani 5.56mm Rifle

I have a good friend, Gene Sockut, who lives in Israel. Gene was the chief firearms instructor for the Israeli army for something like 26 years, so when he speaks about firearms, I listen. Gene is also the author of several books and videos on close combat with firearms, as well as being a much sought after speaker on self-defense. He is also a sniper instructor for the Israel Border Patrol – Gene knows about guns and gunfighting, so I respect his thoughts on firearms. Sockut thinks very highly of the Galil.

The Israeli Galil rifle was used for several years in the IDF (Israeli Defense Force) in both the 5.56mm and 7.62×51 NATO version. The 5.56mm version was more popular and made in much larger numbers. I set my sights on getting a Galil for many years, however, the few [pre-ban] examples that are in the US are high-priced and hard to come by. I was excited to hear that Century Arms was producing a semiauto version of the famed Galil. They called it the Golani, named after the famed Israeli Golani Brigade. [JWR Adds: The Golanis are built on American-made receivers, using military surplus (used) Galil parts sets, and the requisite number of of “U.S.-made parts” to comply with the silly Section 922(r).]

Of course, my first thoughts were just how close was the Golani going to be to the real thing? I had a chance to handle a genuine Galil many years ago, so I had something to go by for a comparison. Everything I read and saw about the Century Arms Golani seemed too good to be true. I saw a Golani in one of the gun shops I haunt, and was immediately taken with how well-made it was – the deal was sealed.

The Golani is based on the AK-47 design, with a few changes, nothing much worth noting, if you know the AK, then you’ll know the Golani. One thing I like on the Golani is the tipped-up charging handle, which makes it easy to chamber a round with either hand. I also like the side-folding stock. When the stock is opened, it locks-up solid – not something I can say about most AK folding stocks, be they side-folding or under-folding designs.

The Golani comes with a brand-new barrel and USA made receiver, the barrel is 19″ long – why Century chose that barrel length is beyond me. I would have preferred the barrel to be 16″ in length – making it more compact. There is also a flash suppressor on the end of the barrel which mimics those found on AR-15s. The front handguard is made out of polymer and it just feels great to me. The gun was nicely Parkerized, giving it a very military look – I liked it. The Golani also comes with a 35-rd mag – giving the shooter five more rounds than most AR mags – nothing wrong with more rounds on-hand.

Coming in at 9-lbs, the Golani isn’t a light-weight. Then again, most folks who are really into AR-15 type rifles add a lot of gizmos on their guns making them a lot heavier than nine pounds. The good news is, when you fire the Golani, that extra weight helps reduce what little recoil there is from the 5.56mm round. The Golani will also shoot the .223 Remington round.

As is the case with many Century Arms firearms, the gun was dirty and had metal filings on the innards. So, a good cleaning and lube was in order before attempting to fire the Golani. You should also clean and lube any firearm before firing it – just makes good sense, and you can see if there is something in the bore. Don’t laugh, I know a gun dealer who found some wasp nest inside the barrel of a couple new rifles he had sitting on his display rack. Had someone tried to fire those guns, something really bad could have happened to the shooter and the gun.

The Golani’s mag release is ambidextrous, and is thumb operated, just like on the AK-47 – you can insert and remove a mag with either hand, and the mags lock-up tight. Just like an AK or M14, the Golani mags have to be inserted with the front end going in first, and then rocked into place, locking the mag into the mag well.

I’d like to report that my Golani sample worked perfectly out-of-the-box, but it didn’t! I had numerous instances where the bolt rode over the round and didn’t chamber the round. I also had a lot of rounds that would take a dive up, and not chamber, beating the daylight out of those rounds. Usually, when you have feeding problems, it can be traced to a bad magazine – and in this case, it was a bad magazine. The mag that came with my Golani was very rough. I’ve read a number of reports from folks who purchased a Golani having the same problem. Why on earth does Century Arms ship rifles with “iffy” magazines is beyond me – but they did, and still do! Shame on you, Century Arms.

A quick call to my favorite mailorder company, CDNN Sports, and I found some as-new Galil 35-rd mags for $29.99 each, and some in “excellent” condition for $19.99 each, so I ordered half a dozen of the new mags. When the new Galil mags arrived, there were no more feeding problems with my Golani sample. You should also look at a magazine anytime you have feeding problems with any firearms, more often than not, there is a problem with the magazine. I found, upon close examination, that the magazine provided with my Golani rifle had problems – the reinforced top portion of the magazine had split. I had a friend re-weld it, and the mag worked fine after that. I understand that TAPCO is also making a polymer mag for the Golani/Galil rifles, but I haven’t yet used any of them.

Be advised, the Golani 35-rd mags won’t fit in a standard military ALICE M16 magazine pouch. However, you can find ALICE-style AK-47 30-rd magazine pouches from Charley’s Surplus for $12.95 each, that work perfectly for the Golani 35-rd mags (as well for for 30-rd AK-47 mags). The Golani magazines will also fit in some of the tactical vests mag pockets, but not in others.

The safety on the Golani operates just like that on an AK-47, it’s on the right side of the receiver “up” is safe, and “down” is fire. It’s hard to operate with the right hand. There is also an added safety release on the left side (on the top of the pistol grip) but it isn’t very well designed and is also hard to operate.

The sights on the Golani are better than those found on the AK, and you have a long sight radius, giving you a better sight picture, than found on the eastern European and Chinese AK-47s and most of their variants. I also like the longer and more hand-filling pistol grip on the Golani, as compared to the AK-47. There overall feel of the Golani is just one of a very-well made, and solid military-style combat rifle, period!

I tested a selection of .223 ammo through my Golani sample, including various Russian-made ammo, and of course, some outstanding .223 Rem. from Black Hills Ammunition and Winchester’s white box USA brand and had no feeding or functioning problems at all – after I used the better mags from CDNN Sports. Extraction and ejection were to the right and about 20 feet from the rifle. I was getting 3″ groups with most ammo tested, with a couple around just under 3″ with the various Black Hills .223 ammo – the Golani liked the 55-gr bullets best with it’s 1:9 barrel twist. I burned through more than 500-rds of the Winchester white box USA brand 55-gr FMJ ammo with no problems at all…it’s great ammo and I highly recommend it, especially when breaking-in a new firearm. I tried several different jacketed hollow point rounds from Black Hills, and the gun just ate ’em all up without any problems.

If you’re in the market for a great .223/5.56 rifle for survival, or just fun shooting, then take a close look at the Century Arms Golani. I know you won’t be disappointed, once you replace the junk magazine supplied with the rifle, with a like-new mag from CDNN Sports. The good news is that, the Golani is still in-stock and readily available. The bad news is, supplies are limited won’t last forever. Presently, J&G Sales sells the Golani for only $499.99 – and that’s a great deal on a great rifle with a proven design. I’ve dealt with J&G Sales for many years, and they provide excellent customer service and good prices. So, take a close look at the Century Arms Golani for your next purchase. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

JWR Adds: In my opinion, Galils, R4s, and Valmets represent the very best in the AK weapons family. We have a Galil Golani here at the ranch. My only complaint is that like a lot of other AKs, it has a wicked trigger backlash “slap” that makes it painful to shoot extensively. But I’ve read that this can be cured fairly easily.

Letter Re: Firearms Stopping Power

Jim:
Thanks for posting that link to the best article ever on stopping power! (An Alternate Look at Handgun Stopping Power.) I am completely re-thinking the role of my .22 [rimfire] in light of these results (i.e., The incapacitation percentage is much higher than I would have thought). Apparently the lowly .22 [rimfire] has a place in defense after all. – Neo

JWR Replies: Just keep in mind that this study was an abstract view that doesn’t distinguish the circumstances of each incident tallied. For example. .22 rimfires are more often that not rifles, rather than handguns, and they are most likely to be used in home defense against burglars than they are against aggressive armed robbers in street encounters, or someone that comes spoiling for a fight. So there may have been far less “fight” available in the recipients of the lead, from the very beginning.

The fight/flight continuum definitely skews the outcome of gunfights, both psychologically and physiologically. Someone who goes into a fight on the offensive is far less likely to be incapacitated than someone who is just engaged in a sneak and peek burglary. And although inconsistent, the effects of adrenalin can be amazing. Gunfights are messy and complicated. They can also take a lot of rounds to finish, as illustrated by the FBI’s 1986 Miami shootout. Sometimes it takes a lot of lead to stop a man. Carry plenty of extra magazines, and don’t stop shooting until your opponent is clearly no longer a threat. (But, as recently mentioned in the blog, don’t carry on beyond that, especially after more than a moment’s interval!)

Also, keep in mind that the statistics in the study also show that shotguns and centerfire rifles still rule. I would only use a .22 rimfire as a last resort. And if I were forced by circumstances to use one, then I would want to put a large number of rounds into an opponent in rapid succession.

Lastly, with any caliber, only shots to critical areas (brain and spine) are sure stoppers, so accuracy counts. (I’ve been to several shooting courses, and they all stress: speed and accuracy. If at all possible, concentrate on your opponent’s ocular window.

Two Letters Re: Beans, Bullets, Band-Aids and Bicycles

Mr. Rawles:
Our young family has some experience with bike trailers and biking with young kids to share.  First, the about the actual trailer, make sure that the hitch can easily switch between bikes.  Another family we bike with occasionally has a trailer that requires a mount be attached to the bike.  We have a Burly bike trailer that we have used for about five years with our three children which will mount on any adult bike.  That allows it to be switched off from adult to adult easily so that no one person gets too tired.  I can vouch that it is well built and will retain your child in the event that it rolls (but still put a helmet on them).  They are rated for 100 lbs. total capacity.  We purchased a used one as well that was converted to a cargo trailer by removing the fabric and putting down some plywood.  It can hold over 200 lbs. of cargo and was much less expensive than buying a cargo specific model.  Having both a place for the kids and the ability to carry supplies greatly extends our radius of travel and in a SHTF scenario, allows us to get supplies and children where they need to be rapidly, regardless of fuel supply.  In a pinch, a conscious adult could sit on the cargo trailer, but still leaves us without a method for hauling an unconscious or feeble adult (maybe a rigged garden trailer?).

Now on to riding with little children.  When our eldest was three we were able to do five mile rides with him.  We had a route that passed things of interest to him and usually stopped at an ice cream shop as a treat.  We encouraged him and occasionally gave him a push but it was almost 100% under his own power.  And this was with training wheels.  When we had our next child we put her in the trailer (one she was big enough) and that also let us carry extra water, snacks etc. so that we could bike more places.  Packing the extra water is important as kids dehydrate easily, and some people dehydrate easier than others.  Now, with three kids, we know that we can get around our rural town in a grid down situation and support our community and family. – K. in Texas.

 

Mr. Rawles,
In light of the several articles the last few days on bicycles, I’d like to suggest a few handy tips I have found for those folks looking to get into it for free or very low cost. I pair this consideration with a few choice images of the subway shutdown in New York a few years ago (December 20th 2005).  An image of a man painfully perched on his daughter’s pink streamer bike riding to work in his three piece business suit was burned forever in my brain and reinforced the need for having cheap reliable transportation. My article is on how to get into it on the cheap.

Bicycles are a superb mode of transportation, and in an emergency situation they really should be a leveraged option in your survival tool belt—if my article can convince you of this, I believe you’ll realize that it sure beats walking!

My wife and I are big yard sale attendees. Yard sales are the gold mine of bike scrounging. I have been given bicycles by folks who had previously removed and sold a part or two from the bike to another buyer. It is easy to replace those parts with little out-of-pocket expense. One time I acquired a Japanese ‘gas pipe’ bike (a Shogun), named such parlance because the frame is non-buted (buting is where the walls of the bike frame are tapered thinner in the middle and thicker at the ends to save weight and increase strength), and if one were to cut the frame in half, cut a bit of old gas pipe in half, then held them end-to-end, they’d look the same. I got that bike for free because it was missing a seat post—the lady at the yard sale was almost apologetic about the bike when I asked about it and she was happy I saved her a trip to the dump. I spent some time and built it into a single speed rig some eight years ago. It is very low-maintenance, has 3M reflective tape across all the various tubing for night safety, fenders for inclement weather, and about a snowball’s chance of ever getting stolen. I love its simplicity and usefulness. I love that I got it for next to nothing (I did later upgrade parts on it, simply due to preference), and I appreciate its simplicity.

Don’t get me wrong here, the wunderbikes they ride in the pros like you see on the Tour de France are engineering marvels. I choose cruddy bikes instead. I used to own a very nice Specialized S-Works Enduro. (Remind me sometime to tell you about the time I showed up on the doorstep of the house ten years ago with that bike. My Memsahib certainly clarified a few points regarding what constituted proper purchases to my newlywed brain on that day.) That bike had all the bells and whistles, but I sold it. I have since awoken to the fact that I can create something with my hands, on the cheap, that I truly am passionate about. I love cheap bikes.

As I previously mentioned, yard sales are very good for picking up old bikes for next to nothing. Most just need a few parts tightened and oiled, the tubes inflated and they are good to go. I have picked up several Specialized and Trek rigs for under $20 which just needed a good washing (use Simple Green degreaser) and some oil on the chain and derailleurs. I make it a point to always ask about certain things at yard sales, and for some odd reason, old bikes are things folks seem to be ashamed of. I am unsure why this is. Old tools go for a fair bit, and old guns too—bikes go for a song.

I would be remiss if I did not mention Sheldon Brown, the king of Internet bicycle retrofitting. His web site is pretty old school (read: simple early 1990s graphics, et cetera) but it really has a ton of helpful information. Have an old odd duck French bike? He has info on it. SheldonBrown.com is his reference library, and it has helped me with plans several times. It is a great resource.

My friends know I am into fixing up old bikes. I’ve traded odd jobs for bikes and bike parts, I’ve done side jobs repairing bikes for people, and my buddies always tell me when they find a deal. Networking about interests will always lead you some interesting contacts. I also believe that God knows us, and if we’ll talk to Him, he will place opportunities in our path. Ask Him to open your eyes, and when the opportunity comes along, take it, and remember to say a prayer of thanks.

I regularly visit the bike shops in my area and try to send business their way. They are helpful in figuring out stuff I am stumped with, and their advice is always free. I have found that kindness gets me a long way (as a general rule, but especially in bike shops); bicycle mechanics will almost always spend a few moments to chat with you about your project. Methinks they find a kindred soul in someone who refurbishes decrepit bikes. The other nice thing about the shop is they usually have a parts bin (read: used take-offs, parts, mostly nothing new or matching) you can poke around in. I always offer money for any parts bin stuff which I find that fit, but I have yet to pay for any of my scrounging.

Another option, somewhat controversial is dumpster diving. Now, before you write it off as an impossibility, it does work. I realize that some states may have ordinances against finding treasures in the trash pile, but I have buddies who have found entire bikes and some very usable parts checking the trash behind their local bike shops. [JWR Adds: Only dumpster dive with permission, and in accordance with state and local laws.]

Now, as to tools, you can pick up a pretty decent Chinese made repair kit off eBay or Amazon for about $130. I got one for Christmas near a decade ago. True, it isn’t as beautiful as a set of blue handled Park Tools, but I have yet to wear out any of my gear. I got a bottom bracket tool, a crank puller, hex wrenches, cone wrenches, chain whip and freewheel/lockring wrench, spoke wrenches, and a bunch of other bike tool stuff. Some of the specialty tools can be bought separately; the more general tools you may already have. My kit has really only let me down thus far on an old 27” (read: pre 700 CC modern road/29” mountain) wheel set—I did not have the right 3-splined tool to take off the screw on freewheel, and I needed a BMX style freewheel mounted. The old stuff requires older tools; standards back in the day were not necessarily adopted across the various manufacturers like they are today. Sometimes it is worth the shop fixing it for you rather than buying a tool you may not ever use again.

My final suggestion is a bike helmet. I know they are not ‘cool’ or hip. I also know most of us of the prepper mentality would not think of ourselves as either of those descriptions. I can tell you I have crashed several times in the past thirty years and each time I was wearing a brain bucket I was grateful I had head protection. Keep your brain safe!

Now, keep in mind, these tips are for the shade tree bike mechanic. I welcome feedback on this from the fine folks who make a living turning a wrench on bicycles—I am always learning and am passionate about making cruddy old bikes into something beautiful and functional. Hopefully you folks can take something from my thoughts here today and add another option to your survival tool belt. Bikes are not just for kids, nor do they have to just be a survival thing you never use. Google Albert Einstein on a bicycle sometime if you need a smile (the picture always elicits a grin from me). Get a bike, ride with your family—you will not regret it.

God Bless you, Avalanche Lily and the kids, – Jay in Utah

Letter Re: How to Live Longer Now and After TEOTWAWKI

James:
I love the blog and a lot of the articles. I am a dermatologist and wanted to comment on the Vitamin D article posted on July 21, 2011. Despite what you might read on the Internet, you cannot get a significant amount of Vitamin D from sunlight. This is a huge misconception. Even if you tanned for 8 hours, you would only get about 3% of your daily Vitamin D. You would also cause a lot of sun damage which increases your risk of skin cancer. I realize a lot of information says otherwise, but if you check with the American Academy of Dermatology, you will read data from experts.

Also, although Vitamin D is important, science doesn’t support a lot of claims in the article about fighting the flu, etc. It is true that is you have a deficiency of Vitamin D, you can weaken your immune system, but taking extra Vitamin D does not “boost” your immune system. I realize a lot of holistic medicine people want to believe this, but it isn’t backed up by any science.

Again, not trying to be negative, but just wanting to let people know that tanning is not a good way to try to get Vitamin D. Tanning also has some bad effects (skin cancer). – Dr. C.S.

 

Hey Jim,
Living in the Eastern mountains with the associated cloudy days and longish winters our clinic has never tested anyone with enough Vitamin D3 in their system.

The accepted norms for Vitamin D3 in adults is 30 ng/mL to 100 ng/mL. Being more interested in finding the optimal level instead of the statistical normal range we aim for most adults to be in 70 ng/mL – 89 ng/mL range and for those with cancer the optimal range seems to be 90ng/mL to100 ng/mL.

We have also found that 50,000 IU per day for only three days to be a good weapon in fighting winter colds, flus, etc.

For the 25-hydroxyvitamin D test, we get the most consistency from Labcorp which is available nationwide. – S.D. in West Virginia

Economics and Investing:

Farmer John suggested this article: 20 Cities Where Housing Prices Are Still Dropping Like A Knife

Air Conditioning, Cable TV, and an Xbox: What is Poverty in the United States Today? (Thanks to K.A.F. for the link.)

John R. sent another big bunch-o’-links:

The Fed Is Now More Leveraged That Lehman Brothers Was  (Graham Summers)  

Global Economic Crisis: Finance is the New Mode of Warfare (Michael Hudson)  

Portugal Joins Spain and Greece in Lying About its “Colossal” Deficit (Tyler Durden)  

Five buys, Five sells for 10 long years of no growth—Commentary: Recession hits in 2012, and things don’t get better (Paul B. Farrell)   

You Want to Fix the U.S. Economy? Here’s a Start (Charles Hugh Smith)  

The Correlations are Failing Karl Denninger     

Crisis in Confidence?   (Gary Tanashian)     

Items from The Economatrix:

Fears About Debt Send Gold Price to Record

Debt Worries Drag Down the Stock Market

$5 Trillion of Financial Assets Go Up in Smoke

The CON Game:  Confidence, Spending, and Inflation Expectations

Poor Man’s Gold is Breaking Out — Sell Your House and Buy Silver?

Odds ‘n Sods:

G.G. mentioned a piece over at The Volokh Conspiracy: Foot Voting for Freedom

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Some thoughts on the sad demise of the Space Shuttle program, made worse by stifling the commercial manned ventures with heaps of bureaucratic paperwork: Be Careful What You Wish For… (Thanks to Greg C. for the link.)

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Reader David M. mentioned that there is an extension for Firefox browser called “ShowIP” that displays the IP address of the page being browsed in a small window in the status bar. Handy for making your backup web page bookmarks. (OBTW, please jot this IP address down and keep it in your wallet: 64.92.111.122.)

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File under Economies of Scale: Solar power boom shines for consumers.

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OPSEC for military travelers: Some Safety Advice for the U.S. Military. (Thanks to Justin M. for the link.)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another two entries for Round 35 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo, and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 35 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

How Does Your Garden Grow? (After TSHTF), by Tom from Colorado

Gardens will supply a large portion of our food after TSHTF. Those who already garden know that, in many cases, additional amendments and plant foods/fertilizers are necessary for a good crop. While a compost pile will help a great deal in keeping your soil in good shape, there are many other sources for fertilizers/plant foods that will be easily accessible after TSHTF. I’ll detail several of them and the manner in which to make and/or use them in this article.

The Acronym NPK stands for Nitrogen/Phosphorous/Potassium. I’ll include NPK where applicable for more experienced gardeners wondering about the values.

Human Urine:
Human urine contains nitrogen, phosphates, and potassium (NPK approximately 12/1.1/3.3, varies by individual). These are the big three that plants need to grow. It is sterile when it comes out of the body as well. Urine by itself is far too concentrated to use directly on plants. It can be used directly in a compost pile (simply pour it over the top) or it can be diluted with water and used on the plants themselves. A minimum of eight parts water should be mixed with one part urine. You may need to use more water depending on your urine. I recommend testing the mixture on a small patch or single plant to insure that your mixture is not too strong.

If the urine will not be used shortly after it comes out then it should be stored in a sealable container. While it is sterile when it first comes out it will eventually allow bacterial growth if left exposed to open air. Only urine from healthy individuals should be used and if someone is in otherwise good health but on medication then their urine should not be used either. Once diluted and in the soil, bacterial growth is no longer an issue if urine from a healthy individual was used.

If you have problems with acidic soil, wood ash can be mixed into the urine/water mixture to help alleviate the acidity.

Diluted urine is a fast acting plant food.

For those who are grossed out by, or question the idea of, using urine as a plant food consider that many of the well known plant foods contain urea (although not from humans) as a component of the mix.

Bone meal:
Bone meal contains phosphates and nitrogen ( more heavy on phosphates than nitrogen, NPK approximately 4/12/0 but will vary). It can be easily made at home by one of two methods. Only use bones from animals that you know were healthy.

 The first method is to dry the bones in an open fire or an oven. First you need to boil off any remaining fat or meat, boil for about an hour to do this. Once they are completely dry from your fire or oven you crush them down to a powder, or as close as you can get. If you’ve gotten them dry enough they crush fairly easily.

The second method is to boil the bones for an extended period of time (in the vicinity of 24 hours is what I’ve been told, I’ve only used the first method myself). When they’ve boiled long enough you can simply crush them down into a mush. Allow the mush to dry if you want a powder or use as mush.

With both methods your best results will be obtained by digging the resultant bone meal into your soil.

Bone meal is a long acting, slow release type of fertilizer. Very useful used at the bottom of potato trenches or dug into the soil near fruit trees/bushes. Application rate for bone meal is approximately five pounds per fifty square feet when first preparing a garden. You can use slightly less in following seasons.

Blood Meal:
Blood meal is a heavy nitrogen source and may contain some trace phosphates and/or potassium (NPK approximately 12/0/0 to 13.5/1/1 depending on blood source). Blood meal has the alternate names of dried blood and powdered blood. The commercially available types are typically made from bovine blood although other types of blood will work as well. Only use blood from animals that you know were healthy.

Blood meal is made simply by dehydrating blood. Preferably all the way down to a powder although I’ve not had the patience to get it that far and normally use it while it is still relatively clumpy. This can be done in a solar dehydrator or, if you live in a very non-humid area, simply by leaving a container out with a thin layer of blood in it. The quickest way I’ve discovered is to use a heat safe container with a thin layer of blood in it immediately next to my cooking heat sources or on top of my fireplace insert when it is burning. Keep the blood covered and inaccessible to insects regardless of what method you use. Fair warning, this one can make a nasty smell if done indoors and the pans used may need extensive cleaning.

Blood meal is a quick acting nitrogen source and can be used in powder form (if you get it all the way dry) or mixed in with water.

Blood meal also makes a good compost pile stimulator and, if sprinkled around the perimeter of a garden, may keep some of the four-footed garden raiders at bay. Do not apply blood meal to seedlings and in a warm, most climate you’ll want to use less than recommended. Application rate for blood meal is approximately five to ten pounds per hundred square feet, one application lasts up to 4 months.

Wood Ashes:
Wood ashes are a good source of potassium when dug into the soil (NPK approximately 0/1/3 but can vary widely). You do have to be careful with them though as they turn the soil more alkaline. If you live in an area with acidic soil a moderate treatment of wood ashes shouldn’t be a problem. If you live in an area with more alkaline soil, you’ll want to find a different potassium source.

Be sure any wood ashes you use are from trees that did not receive heavy pesticide treatments or other potentially problematic chemicals. Wood ash application rates will range depending on the ash used and the soil you are using it in. Start small and slowly work up the application amounts if you are using this.

Compost Pile:
A compost pile is pretty much a must if you are doing intensive or semi-intensive planting. Areas planted in these manners benefit from a yearly (or more frequent) addition of organic materials. The best of these would be finished compost from your own pile. I won’t go into detail on creating a compost pile as that is covered in many of the gardening books out there and would cause this article to go well over submission length. I will mention a few ways to tweak your pile though.

The addition of human urine or blood meal (or even wet blood, although that is more likely to attract critters to dig in your pile) can help out your compost. If your soil is very acidic, you may want to mix some wood ashes into your pile. If your soil is alkaline you can add crushed pine bark or chopped up pine needles to add some acid into the soil.

In all cases follow the same cautions regarding health and chemicals on additions to your pile. If using pine bark or needles, be sure the tree was healthy and not recently treated with pesticides or chemicals.

Manure:
There are many forms of manure that can be used on your garden. Starting with humanure (human manure). I do not recommend using this method unless you’ve studied up on the appropriate and safe ways to do so! If you are interested in this I suggest the book: The Humanure Handbook: A Guide to Composting Human Manure, by Joseph Jenkins.

Other types of manure that may be available to you and are good to use are: chicken manure, cow manure, horse manure, rabbit manure, etc…  You’ll note that all these manures are from primarily herbivores (minus the occasional bugs taken in with a free range diet). You don’t want to use manure from carnivores or scavengers as there tend to be more problems with these manures.

There are several manners in which you can use manure to increase your garden’s yield and provide the necessary nutrients to your plants. The first is to compost it in your pile. If you choose this option, you’ll want to add extra greens to your compost pile and add more soil to it to avoid massive nitrogen loss.

The second option is to mix it directly into the soil. Do not do this if you plan to plant the area in the next month or two. The manure affects the carbon/nitrogen ratio strongly enough when first mixed in that it can end up burning your plants. This is a good option for a fall dig-in where you mix it into the soil if you aren’t planning a winter crop (or cover crop) in the area. You can mix other items you would normally compost into the soil at the same time if so desired.

A third option is Manure Tea which gets its own entry.

Manure Tea:
Manure tea is made from dried, well-aged manure and water. It can be used in several manners. You can dip the roots of plants about to be transplanted in the tea, use it to fill holes that are about to be planted, or use it to water directly on the soil around existing plants (getting the manure tea on the leaves of the plants is discouraged).

Manure tea can be made by taking five quarts of manure and three gallons of warm water. The manure should be contained in a tight mesh cloth that will allow water to seep through, burlap (or an old panty-hose leg) is recommended, that is tied shut to form a bag. Suspend the manure in the water in a five gallon bucket for three to four days, stirring daily. You can also simply suspend the manure in the water for a week without stirring. In either case the next step is to raise your manure out of the water in the cloth it was suspended in and allow it to drip back into the bucket until it stops dripping.

The manure tea should be diluted with water to about the color of a normal drinking tea when used. This is approximately one cup of the manure tea to one gallon of water. Experience will show you the exact proportions you want to use for your area. The remaining solids can be added to your compost pile or dug into an area of soil that will not be planted for a month or more.

Note: manure tea may well have a very strong odor while brewing. After you are done, you can store it in a sealable 5 gallon bucket for several seasons if it is kept in a cool place. With it sealed the odor won’t get out either.

Compost Tea:
Compost tea is another option, but after TSHTF it will only be available to those who have some electricity and some basic aeration equipment. If this idea appeals to you a simple Google search for ‘compost tea’ will get you very clear instructions.

Grass Clippings:
Grass clippings can be used as a mulch to help maintain the moisture in your soil. Also, if dug into the very surface of the soil they will provide a nitrogen source to your plants. If used as a mulch you need to be careful to not mulch too thickly or you will end up with anaerobic decomposition (decomposition without oxygen present), a bad smell, and unhappy plants. Using clippings as a mulch will also get some nitrogen into the soil but not as quickly as digging them in.

Trace Elements:
There are quite a few trace elements (AKA micro-nutrients) needed by plants. One simple amendment covers quite a few of them as well as providing growth regulators and natural hormones that function like plant vitamins. Kelpmeal is a little expensive but well worth using. Since this will most likely not be available in a crisis (unless you happen to live near a place kelp can be harvested) it can be stocked up on in advance. It is a little pricey but well worth it to have for your garden.

Kelpmeal can be worked directly into the soil or, for a more sparing (on the kelp) approach, it can be applied as a foliar spray (meaning it gets sprayed on the leaves). Foliar feeding with kelp tea needs to be done about every two weeks but if you mix the kelp into the soil you can normally just do so once at the beginning of the season.

Kelpmeal is a component in complete organic fertilizer (COF) as described by Steve Solomon in his book “Gardening When It Counts: Growing Food in Hard Times” but can also be used on its own or with the other amendments/fertilizers listed in this article. You can easily store two fifty pound bags in a thirty-one gallon galvanized steel garbage can with a snug fitting lid.

For existing gardens that have been worked for a season or more, one pound of kelpmeal per one hundred square feet should be more than adequate to dig in. You may want to double or even triple this amount if it is a new garden area being prepared. Kelpmeal can be dug in to just the actual rows/raised beds/hills being planted but there are some advantages to digging it in to your entire garden area if you have enough of it.

Seed Meal:
Seed meal is another component in COF from Steve Solomon’s book. It is a slow release nitrogen amendment that is mixed into the soil. I mention it here because it is a byproduct of making vegetable oil and if you make your own then you can use the remnants left behind as a garden amendment. It can also be stored, with two fifty pound bags easily fitting into a thirty-one gallon galvanized garbage can with a  snug lid. The most commonly used seed meals you might have access to after TSHTF are soy meal, cottonseed meal, sunflower meal, and canola seed meal (rapeseed).

Other Options:
If you raise rabbits, chickens, or worms (vermiculture) many of the kitchen scraps you’d normally use in your compost pile can go to them and they will, in turn, produce manure or worm castings (worm manure). Worm castings can be dug straight into the soil shortly before planting. As mentioned before manures from other livestock should normally be composted or dug into the soil months before planting. Use caution with manure from different animals as the NPK and carbon/nitrogen ration of the manure ranges greatly depending on the animal it is from and what it has been fed. A trial and error method is best when using manures, keeping in mind that too little might stunt your plant some but too much can kill it.

I’ll close by again recommending Steve Solomon’s book “Gardening When It Counts”. The book details gardening with minimal amendments and, albeit briefly, deals with survival gardening. I’ve found it to be a very good resource for gardening on a regular basis and the skills I’ve developed by using it will be invaluable in a SHTF scenario. – Tom From Colorado