Letter Re: Mortgages–WTSHF, Inflation and Deflation

Hello Mr. Rawles,
First of all, thank you for all that you do.  Your books and your site are invaluable information to me.  They have helped me to get pretty-well prepared. 
 
I have a question about debt.  Every survival type that I have listened to or read says “get out of debt”.  I am out of debt, but I am considering obtaining a small mortgage in order to be able to purchase a place that will be a better refuge location for me and my family.  (Unfortunately, it will have to be on the east side of the Mississippi River.)
 
What I don’t understand is what will happen to mortgages when the economy collapses.  Surely they (if there is a ‘they’ then) can’t foreclose on everyone.  Won’t people who are heavily in debt just have their debt evaporate with the collapse of the dollar?  Can you explain or link me to a good explanation of what will happen financially in our country when the dollar collapses?
 
Thank you so very much, – M. in North Carolina

JWR Replies: I concur that installment debt from any banking institution is a bad thing. Granted, there may be mass inflation ahead, and you’d be paying off your mortgage with cheaper dollars. But you can’t count on that. Inflation is just one potential outcome. Another possibility is the prospect of continuing house price declines and a further deteriorating job market, as we slide into a 1930s-style deflationary depression. That will mean even more layoffs and more foreclosures. A third possible outcome is a total collapse of the economy and a temporary dissolution of governmental authority. But the chance of that is quite small. (It might appeal to some in the “There’s No Government Like No Government” crowd, but the chances of that happening are slim.) The two most tenacious life forms on Earth are cockroaches and bureaucrats.

In the next few years, some of the risks of mortgage debt will be: 1.) Continued deflation in residential real estate. 2.) Higher property taxes. 3.) Higher interest rates, and 3.) A “muddle through” situation, where government is still functioning at the county, state and Federal levels. (Their services may drop off to marginal levels, but they will keep on taxing and overseeing foreclosures. How charming.)

The situation that economist John Mauldin refers to as a “Muddle Through Economy” would be traumatic for any mortgage holder who loses his job. Therefore, I recommend that if you must borrow money to buy a retreat-worthy home that you borrow the money from a family member rather than from a bank.



Economics and Investing:

“Not if, but when” for Spanish bailout, experts believe

For Two Economists, the Buffett Rule Is Just a Start. These French commueconomists want to punish anyone who is successful.

And speaking of French economists, here are some that are more croyable: Global systemic crisis – France 2012-2014: The big republican earthquake and its international impact

Ken S. recommended this piece over at The Daily Reckoning: Global Derivatives: Like Two Drunks Leaning On Each Other

At Zero Hedge: Chris Martenson: “The Trouble With Money”. (Thanks to Jim T. for the link.)

And if those gloomy-doomy charts weren’t enough for you, then check these out: The long debt emergency has arrived – From 1950 to 1980 total US credit market debt to GDP held a ratio of 1.5. Today that figure is above 3.5 with total US credit market debt at $54 trillion.

Items from The Economatrix:

IMF Raises Global Forecast For First Time Since Early 2011

US Housing Starts Unexpectedly Drop To 5-Month Low

US Factories Cool For First Time In Four Months

Jobs Data Simultaneous Release At Risk As US Review Spurs Restrictions



Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader B.B. spotted this: Hacking Expert David Chalk Joins Urgent Call to Halt Smart Grid: “100% certainty of catastrophic failure of energy grid within three years”

   o o o

New Mexico man takes unique approach to protect home from fires. (Thanks to Scott B. for the link.)

   o o o

One of those “Small World Department” moments, from videoblogger “SGT” Planecast with a PATRIOT – Part One. He notes: “Recently I had the good fortune of meeting and interviewing a newly awakened patriot on a plane trip out east. The passenger sitting next to me just happened to be reading James Wesley Rawles’ book Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse which directly led to us starting up a conversation about the inevitable calamities we are facing…” (Thanks to Darren H. for the link.)

   o o o

I heard from reader D.R. that CampingWorld.com has an internet sale on their 32 oz. bottles of Pri-D (diesel) and Pri-G (gasoline) fuel stabilizers. They are presently $4 off, with a sale price of $35.99. You can also use coupon code 2717 for $5 off any order of $50 or more, to help cover your shipping cost. The sale and coupon code expire April 30th.

   o o o

Directive 21 is sponsoring a product giveaway, in cooperation with The Survival Mom. Prizes include a free Big Berkey water filter system and the new book: Survival Mom: How to Prepare Your Family for Everyday Disasters and Worst-Case Scenarios. Also, 10 other winners will each get a copy of the Survival Mom book. The contest ends Friday night. (April 20, 2012.)



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Vigorous measures at present would soon put an end to this rebellion. The deluded people are made to believe that they are invincible…. When this army is ordered to act against them, they will soon be convinced that they are very insignificant when opposed to regular troops." – Major Thomas Pitcairn, Royal Marines, in a letter from Boston to John Montagu, Lord Sandwich, the Secretary of State, 1775.



Note from JWR:

Today we present two more entries for Round 40 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 40 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



How to Extend the Shelf Life of Food and Save on Groceries, by Vicki W.

In 2010, our family became aware of the need to become more prepared in the event of disaster or financial collapse.  Having not lived this lifestyle, learning about what it takes to do this was quite overwhelming.  I began to scour the internet for food storage ideas.  I even took a small food storage introductory class held by a local Mormon woman who has a passion to teach on this subject.  I started learning skills like bread baking, dehydrating, Dutch oven cooking, etc.

I learned that a Foodsaver machine could vacuum mason jar lids and effectively preserve foods.  Although pricey, I bought the Foodsaver and the special lid adapters.  I frequently pick up used canning jars at garage sales and thrift stores and I have also found that many stores mark down their canning supplies after canning season is over. However, two thoughts about vacuum sealing  jars bothered me.  Some people thought the Foodsaver was too expensive.  They would rather spend their prepping dollars on actual food.  The second thought was what if we didn’t have power to operate it?  I was hoping for other solutions.

On You Tube, there is a video that describes using the Pump-N-Seal.  I had not previously heard of this device.  The same day that I found out about it, I walked into a thrift store and found one for $2.  One benefit that it offers is that you can also use glass jars such as jelly, spaghetti, pickle, etc.  I discovered you could just punch a small hole with a push pin in a mason jar lid or used jar lid, cover with electrical tape, pump, and it would seal.  It would also work with the Foodsaver jar adapters to seal mason jars.  It works either way and it doesn’t require electricity.  However, it’s $40.  Could it be done less expensively?

There is a blog called Salad in a Jar.  She has a video that describes using the $20 pump that is electric/rechargeable that I recommend watching to see how you use the jar adapters.   The price was getting better.  I’ve also seen the brake bleeder pump, but you really have a hand workout for it to seal.  But after experimentation, I found a $4.25 solution that I am very excited about.

Ziploc has a manual pump that is supposed to seal freezer bags.  For $4.25 the kit comes with a pump and three bags.  I found the bags to leak and were not effective like the Foodsaver machine and bags are.  However, the manual pump works great to seal both mason jars (with either the small or wide mouth adapters) or the pin prick/electrical tape method.  Either method will vacuum seal jars.  You can reuse pickle, olive, spaghetti jars, etc. or canning jars with the pin hole/electrical tape – and Ziploc pump.  Or with the jar adapter, you can seal regular or wide mouth canning jars with Ball or Kerr jar lids without punching a hole. 

I have been vacuum sealing and demonstrating and have really given this little pump a real workout, and it keeps on going.  I have shown family and friends, Mennonite ladies, and even demonstrated it for the Amish women who worked at an Amish bulk store.  Everyone is impressed that has seen and tried it.

What benefit would there be for us preppers?  You can start saving your grocery dollars by not throwing stale, expired food away and you would have a convenient way to re-pack food after you open those #10 cans.  You can use this the day you bring it home (not wait for some “disaster” to put it to use).  If you get a great deal on cake mixes like 10 for $10, you can pack them in mason jars and they will last for several years – well past the “expiration” date. 

What about nuts?  You get a killer deal on a bulk buy – but they go rancid fairly quickly.  Not if they’re vacuumed sealed.  What about brown sugar?  It will stay moist and flowing if vacuumed sealed in a jar.  How about chocolate chips, dried fruit, dehydrated vegetables, tea, coffee, herbs, and spices?  Yes, yes, yes!  This is not a substitution for heat canning.  It is for keeping things fresh such as wheat berries, beans, flour, chocolate chips, etc. in longer term storage, which is several years.

A sample of dry storage goods is:  Wheat berries, oatmeal, rice, beans, flour, sugar, salt, coffee, pasta, tea, dried herbs, spices, dehydrated foods, jerky, potato flakes, chocolate chips, candy, etc.  You can even leave things in their original package such as granola bars or chocolate chips, put a pin prick in the package, put the desired item in the jar, and vacuum away. 
Ace Hardware sells half gallon mason jars.  They are very handy to store bulk items such as beans, oatmeal, rice, etc. in.
My next experiment will be with olive oil.  I buy it in small containers because I hear it goes bad quickly.  I will vacuum seal some oil in a mason jar and check it every six months to see how long it stores.  I am thinking that this will increase the shelf life significantly.

Will this work in the fridge and freezer?  Absolutely!   Let me give an example:  strawberries go bad quickly.  I’ve had them keep for over a week in a mason jar in the fridge quite nicely. I first wash them in 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water, rinse, drain, dry, and then seal them in a jar.  This would work for other berries, too.
 
I used half an avocado and put the other half sealed in a jar in the fridge and it didn’t turn brown.  It kept for several days.  (I then ate it, but it could have gone longer).   It would keep months in the freezer.  It would be great to buy avocados for a dollar or less and freeze them to have on hand for guacamole.   Lettuce keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator when sealed in a jar.  In other words, it prolongs the quality of food.  Some items liked cooked food can be preserved only a few days longer than you normally would.  Fruits and veggies keep even longer.  Frozen items may keep for several years.
Here is a sample of items to refrigerate in sealed jars:  Lettuce, cut onions, green onions, berries, green pepper, celery, avocado, yeast, etc.  You can also extend the life of cooked food and deli meat by a few days longer than normal.  (Not longer because it does allow dangerous bacteria to grow if kept longer).  However, you may freeze these items if you desire extended life for your food storage.  This alone will save the average family money because you’ll have more time to eat the items before they go bad.

Here are a few tips and tricks I’ve learned along the way to keep in mind:

Common sense needs to be used when applying this method.  For instance, if you’re not willing to check your jars after sealing and then monthly thereafter for any loss of vacuum, I wouldn’t use this for long term storage.   Although I have been doing this for over a year, occasionally a lid does come loose.
 
If you let refrigerated cooked foods go too long before consuming them, you would be setting yourself up for a dangerous situation.  I would suggest looking around the internet for other tips and ideas associated with vacuum sealing.

Use only quality (Ball or Kerr brand) canning jar lids – not the cheap ones.  It may be necessary to soak them in very hot water for a few minutes to condition them. You can also recondition the lids of used pickle, olive, or spaghetti jars the same way.

If using the pin prick/electrical tape method to store leftovers, make sure that the lid is clean.  For instance, if you use half a jar of spaghetti sauce and want to put the rest sealed in the fridge, make sure the underside of the lid is clean and free of sauce.  Poke a hole in the lid and cover with a piece of electrical tape.  Use the Ziploc pump to seal.  To release the seal, simply pull up the electrical tape and the seal will be broken.  Press the tape back down firmly and reseal if desired.  (Watch the You Tube demo on the Pump-N-Seal unit for this to make sense).

To release the seal on the canning lids, the dull end of a church key opener can be used to gently pry up the lid or simply use your fingers if they are strong enough..  (Do not bend the lid or it can’t be reused).  You can use one canning lid over and over again.

If desired, sterilize the glass jars (like you would for canning) or rinse in vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.  Otherwise, soak them in hot soapy water and then dry thoroughly.  When filling the jar you have chosen to seal, a wider funnel (used in canning) helps to get the food in the jar and also keep the rim of the jar clean.  If you don’t have a funnel, (and I recommend one for the regular and wide mouth size),  just wipe off the rim of the jar really well after filling the jar up to one inch below the rim.

To re-use pickle or spaghetti jars, vegetable oil comes in very handy to remove the adhesive bits of those pesky labels. 

If vacuuming foods that are more powdery such as spices or coffee, simply place a small piece of paper towel, coffee filter, or muffin liner on top of the food you are sealing and leave about an inch between the food and the top of the jar.  The powder will not get sucked up and prevent a good seal.  You can also keep food like cake mixes in their original bags.  Just put a pin prick through the bag, put in jar and then seal.
If storing jars in the freezer, use the freezer safe mason jars which have completely straight sides.

Don’t forget to label and date your jars.  You may think that you will remember what and when you stored things, but the reality is that you won’t.  I don’t write on the lids directly because I re-use them.  I buy white labels that I write on and then adhere to each jar.

Check the seal on the jars for slow leaks after a day or so. If there is a crack, scratch, or nick on rim of jar (or tiny piece of foreign matter), it can prevent the jar from sealing or cause a slow leak. Discard the jars with imperfections or reuse them for something else if they won’t hold a seal.  When using your mason jars to vacuum seal, it is a good idea to put canning rings loosely tightened on the jars so that if someone knocks the jar, the lid will not be knocked off.  If using this method for long term storage, it would be wise to check your jars on a monthly basis to make sure that the seal is still good.  I have had good success with even the electrical tape method holding a seal, but it’s a good idea to do a monthly inspection in case of any seal failure.  If you find a jar that isn’t sealed, simply reseal and check it again later.

I have found with the regular size adapter it is helpful to add an extra lid upside down inside the adapter during the process to aid in sealing.  For some reason, I have had no trouble with the wide mouth size, just the regular size adapter.  But it is no big deal to put an extra lid upside down in the jar adapter to make the lid seal.

This works for me and my family.  I hope it can be of help to you as well.  Both the Foodsaver machine and the Pump-N-Seal are good ways to go.  I have and use both.  But I just had to share this non-electric and inexpensive option for those who would benefit from knowing about this handy device.

To recap, your expenses would be $4.25 for the Ziploc vacuum device and about $10 for each Foodsaver jar adapter purchased.  Ideally, you would buy both sizes of the adapters, which brings your total to $25.  But you could just buy the pump and do the pin hole/electrical tape method.  The Ziploc pump is sold at Wal-Mart and many grocery stores.  The jar adapters can be purchased in the camping section at Bass Pro, the Foodsaver web site, or Amazon.com.  Instead of buying pricey bags over and over, you would have used spaghetti and pickle jars and mason jars which you can use over and over again.

Many “prepping” ideas would come in use only in the event of disaster or the electricity failing.  But this little pump can be used the day you bring it home whether there is a disaster or not.  This in turn can save you money on your weekly food bill, thus allowing you to stretch your prepping dollars even more.  That, in my book, is priceless.

“When I walk into my kitchen today, I am not alone. Whether we know it or not, none of us is. We bring fathers and mothers and kitchen tables, and every meal we have ever eaten. Food is never just food. It’s also a way of getting at something else: who we are, who we have been, and who we want to be.” Molly Wizenberg, from A Home Made Life



Simple Defense Tactics That Can Save Your Life, by Belle Ringer

As a woman, I had heretofore never envisioned myself in the scenarios I am about to describe.  The decay of our society and culture has made it necessary for me to know how to defend myself.  It hasn’t been an easy decision to make, but professional training in proper handgun handling has empowered me.  

Through hours of practice, I am learning to be a responsible and proficient handgun owner.  I take my privilege of carrying a gun seriously, and recent national events should serve to inform all of us to avoid violent encounters whenever possible.  I carry a gun for defensive purposes, and I have sought training that will teach me how to react to a threat in a safe and consistent manner.  I want to be safe in the knowledge that I will react to an attack without undue risk to myself or others.  So I want to share a couple of defense tactics I have been taught, and I think you will agree that they are easy skills to acquire and should become a part of your defense strategy.

Observe, Orient, Decide, Act (OODA):  This is a decision-making loop model developed for the military by US Air Force Colonel John Boyd, also known as “the Father of the F-15.”  But it has equal application to self-defense, and is the easiest and, I believe, the optimal response to any threat.  You can do this simple defensive tactic, regardless of where you are or what kind (if any) weapon you are carrying.   

Here’s a quote I like from Robert Greene, who wrote an article titled OODA and You:  “The proper mindset is to let go a little, to allow some of the chaos to become part of your mental system, and to use to your advantage by simply creating more chaos and confusion for your opponent.  You, the defender, funnels the inevitable chaos of the battlefield in the direction of the enemy.”  Let’s face it; any defensive situation that involves a firearm is a battlefield.

I was first introduced to OODA through a defensive handgun course I took with John Farnam, of Defense Training International, Inc.   Farnam is a Vietnam veteran who was awarded three Purple Hearts; is a retired Major in the U.S. Marine Corps; and is a fully commissioned deputy sheriff .  He is regarded as one of the top handgun instructors in the world.  After training with him, I had a whole new perspective of what it means to exercise my Concealed Carry handgun permit.

We were taught that the Bad Guy usually has a plan, and he performs each one of these steps during the execution of his attack.  It is imperative that each one of us abides by the same rules:  Observe your surroundings (be aware of what’s going on around you; Orient yourself to your situation (Is there a wall or a car I can get behind?); Decide if you feel your life is threatened and if the situation requires the drawing of your weapon; or if a better and more appropriate response might be to move away from the shooter; and Act (if threatened, do what you need to do to defend yourself, or if possible, remove yourself from the situation).

One of the things that was also pounded into my consciousness was “Get Off The X!”, a key component of the OODA Loop.  Let me explain:  Gun and/or knife attacks must come at you on a direct line.  In order to make the attack, the bad guy must close from his position to yours.  That will involve either the path of the bullet from the attacker’s gun, or in the case of a knife attack, the bad guy, himself, will be coming straight at you. 

In either case, your first line of defense is to move off the attack line…Get Off The X!  The mere act of moving a step or two will cause the attacker to re-evaluate his attack.  In effect, you have changed his OODA Loop, gained a second or two, and have taken the advantage in the fight. 

This is such an effective tool in changing the dynamics of the fight that your movement to get off the X can reduce your chance of being hit by 70%, according to Farnam.  This statistic was based on “Force on Force” drills at the National Tactical Invitational.  It’s as simple as this:  That one side step buys you 1 ½ seconds to engage the perpetrator, who has had to change his thought process.  When you changed his OODA Loop, you took away his advantage.

To increase your chances of success, you must side-step on your draw, and make it a motor skill.  Farnam drilled this in our heads for 2 ½ days.  “If you’re not shooting….you should be moving!”  To begin with, practice side-stepping while drawing your gun, and do that until it becomes second nature.  This act must become a reactive motor skill….if you’re drawing your gun, you’re automatically moving off the X.  As you progress, your combat reloads, tactical reloads and scanning for additional bad guys are all done while moving. 

John Farnam is not the only professional trainer who ascribes to the merits of the OODA Loop.  According to Massad Ayoob, an internationally known firearms and self-defense instructor (as well as a law enforcement officer training instructor), there is no better strategy for surviving an action/reaction crisis. 

For the Concealed Carry citizen, the handgun is a defensive weapon.  This means you will most probably be a reactive shooter.  The very nature of defensive handgun training means you prepare for an event that has already started and you are brought in under a “reactive” banner.  This means the perpetrator initially has the advantage, since he’s starting the fight on what he feels are his terms.

But when you exercise OODA Loop and Getting Off The X, you have taken that advantage away from him and transferred it to your side of the ledger.  You now have the upper hand by causing momentary chaos in his world; don’t lose that advantage!
    
Not Just For Handgun Defense!
Interestingly enough, Travis Haley, another highly respected firearms trainer, stresses Getting Off The X in his new “Adaptive Carbine” DVD.   Haley is a veteran Force Reconnaissance Marine with 15 years combat experience in the Middle East, and as a special operations and security contractor.  Mr. Haley also partnered with Magpul as founder and CEO of their training division, before forming his own company, Haley Strategic Partners.  His reputation and experience is considerable and well-regarded. 

In this outstanding DVD, he demonstrates drills with the AR-15 by exploding, either left or right, for one long aggressive step; then engaging the target as quickly as possible.  He also demonstrates dropping to a knee or to a prone position rapidly, which in effect changes the attacker’s OODA Loop, and again gives you the advantage.

 One Final Tactic  
And in case you’re obsessed with acronyms, I have another one for you:  MDCR.   Move:  the perpetrator may continue the fight.  Create Distance from the attacker.  After the initial attack SOP9 data proves the attacker will score hits at 3-10 feet, 70% of the time.  By creating distance of 10-12 yards (by just quickly backing up), the perpetrator’s hit percentage dropped to 7%!  By merely creating distance in your fight radius, you increase your survivability by 63%!!  Obtain Cover as quickly as possible.  The gunfight may not be over.  But seeking cover to assess the situation increases your survivability, as well.  Look for barriers that will stop bullets….cars, trees, walls, building corners, etc.  Reload:  a tactical reload behind cover should be your first order of business.  Assess where the gunfight is going, but while doing so, get your gun topped off.

In summary, there’s no doubt that gunfights are systems of chaos.  Next to your weapon and subsequent training, OODA Loop, Getting Off The X, and MDCR all provide you with the best advantages.  And when the chaos starts, all you will have to fall back on is the motor skills you have developed.  If nothing else, please consider adding the one simple element of stepping to the side as you draw your gun.  According to John Farnam, this single, seemingly innocuous act could, and probably will, save your life.

I want to leave you with a visual image — Remember the scene in The Last of the Mohicans (one of my very favorite movies!) when Magua, who is the perp in the movie, has his rifle trained on Cora Munro?  Hawkeye, reacting defensively, starts to engage Magua to prevent the attack.  Magua, sensing Hawkeye’s response, swings his rifle towards Hawkeye and fires.  Hawkeye immediately drops to one knee (moves off the X!) and seeks to re-engage.  Magua escapes through a cloud of black powder smoke… but I think you get my illustration.  That simple move to one knee took the advantage away from the approaching attacker and caused him to re-evaluate.  And now the advantage is yours, and that’s what it’s all about!



Two Letters Re: Firearms Laws in England

Mr Rawles,
Regarding the recent letter from D.S. on security in the UK: while he is certainly correct on the current problems with politics, employment, and prepping in a high-rise, he is mistaken on firearms. I hope the
following details on UK law, gained over twenty years of shooting, will be of some use.

The licenses:

  • FAC – firearms certificate, the UK’s more permissive “gun licence”.
  • SGC – shotgun certificate, the UK’s less permissive “gun licence”.

A FAC will be granted if you can show “good reason” for wanting one. Pest control, deer hunting, target shooting, etc. all constitute “good reason” but you must be able to back up your reason with evidence. If
you’re hunting the cops will want to contact the owner of the land on which you hunt. If you’re target shooting the cops will want to see you’ve been a member of a club for a year or two.

You can ask the cops for a SGC without having to prove “good reason”, but they’re still going to ask some questions. Presumably demonstrating some knowledge of clay shooting would be enough to keep them happy.

These licenses are not common, and certainly not like a shall-issue US CCW permit, but if you have no criminal record or mental illness you should get one. Over 150,000 of us have FACs, and many more have SGCs.

Armed cops don’t show up at your door at 0300 unless someone has given them a very good reason to. If they want to check your stocks they’ll phone you to set a time, they’ll send a single unarmed cop, and he’ll
only be interested in whether you are within your limit on ammo and if you have guns lying around on the floor.

What you can have:

Air weapons – Pistols up to 6ftlb with no FAC, pistols over 6 ft.lb. prohibited. Rifles up to 12 ft.lb. with no FAC, over 12 ft.lb. with FAC.

Handguns – Essentially banned in the aftermath of the Dunblane shootings in 1996. You can have a “handgun” that is constructed to legally be a rifle in terms of overall length, etc. but a FAC is required since it’s legally a rifle. A few (“certain models”) starting pistols, air pistols, etc. may require a FAC or be prohibited outright – the cops try to restrict those that are easily converted to live ammo.

Shotguns – A single- or double-barrel, or mag-fed lever- or pump- or semi-auto-action with a fixed mag no larger than two shells can be owned on a SGC. Detachable magazines and magazines over two shell capacity require a FAC. You can keep as many guns and as much ammo as you wish on a SGC. I’m not a shotgunner so I don’t know much about the details of shotgun law.

Rifles – All require a FAC. Semi-auto- and pump-action in .22 rimfire only (aftermath of the Hungerford shootings in 1987), all others must be manual (and not pump-) action, though magazine fed is okay and there are no limits on magazine capacity. Calibre is officially unrestricted, though the biggest I’ve ever seen is .50, and the cops will examine an application for that calibre or larger very carefully. Each rifle must be individually
approved and added to your FAC. A limited amount of ammo may be stored, based on how much you shoot.

Suppressors – Legally the same as the firearm they’re suppressing i.e. a .308 suppressor requires a FAC just like a .308 rifle. Amusingly, these are less heavily regulated than in the US.

Access – Guns and ammo can be bought at gun shops, clubs, and ranges; of which there are plenty. Google them. I have a choice of at least six within an hour’s drive. Not every gun shop covers every type of
shooting: shotguns are common, biathlon rifles are rare, etc.

What you can’t have:

Roughly speaking any ammo nastier than plain old ball. Specifically: expanding ammo, unless you’re hunting animals for which it is legally required.
Disguised firearms, e.g. a gun in the form of a walking cane.
Full-auto, mortars, rockets, flamethrowers and other things more at home on the battlefield.
Also worth mentioning is that firearms law is where a lot of other banned weapons go; so cans of CS, electric stun guns, and other potential self defence tools are legally “prohibited firearms”.

What you can really have:

Anything you can convince the local firearms licensing officer to approve.

How to do it:

Let’s assume you want a .308 Winchester rifle. Find a local target shooting club that has a full-bore section, or a local(ish) range of 300+yards which will probably have at least one club on site. Join the club. Learn to
shoot with the club’s rifle, or rent one at the range. Seriously, learn to shoot. You’ll probably have an opportunity to shoot once a month, so take advantage of every one. After a year or two you should know your
way around a rifle and have a few ideas on who might be selling one.

Apply for a FAC. During the three month wait buy a gun cabinet and (carefully!) bolt it to your flat’s structure where it can’t be seen from outside. Your local firearms licensing officer will visit (unarmed!) to check out you and your security. If he’s happy with both you’ll get a FAC and can start buying guns and ammo.

That’s more or less how I did it, though I am not a survivalist and consider shooting to be a fun sport that might be useful in a dire emergency rather than the other way around.

How not to do it:

The obvious –
Don’t tell the club you’re a survivalist five minutes after you first walk in the door. Many of the members will agree with you, but every club in the UK knows it is one bad decision away from losing the sport
entirely and will be naturally cautious of new members.

Don’t broadcast the fact you have a FAC or own guns. Word gets around. Don’t mention “self defence”. To anyone. Even in jest. Ever. Club members will think you’re a crazy gun nut, despite many holding a
similar opinion. The cops will revoke your FAC and keep their eyes on you for the rest of your life.

Don’t carry. Your guns should be in your cabinet, at the range, or on their way between the two.

The less obvious –
If you break a law (including laws you don’t know about) while in possession of a firearm the crime becomes much more serious. For example, if you accidentally wander on to private property you’re committing “trespass” and you can get told to leave. If you do it with as much as a unloaded air pistol you are committing “armed trespass” and then you can get a £2,500 GBP fine or three months behind bars.

If you don’t use your guns enough the cops may revoke your FAC, though they should give you a warning first.

A FAC must be renewed every five years, and the cops might not remind you. You’ll still be guilty of possession an unlicensed firearm if it expires.

Final thoughts:

You must realise, and accept, that in the UK gun ownership by citizens is not popular with either the public or the powers that be. Behave accordingly. It’s not as easy or pleasant as it is in the US, but it can be done. – Ross

 

Jim,
I’m in the UK and whilst I agree with Steve about our stupid laws and his living accommodation I would like to make a couple of points about his experience with Plod.

I have a Shot Gun Certificate (SGC) and a Fire Arms Certificate (FAC). As of this moment you do not need to give any reason to own a SGC in the UK. If asked and to save hassle you could say clay pigeon but you should not be asked. The onerous part is getting a referee from our class based approved groups.

For a FAC you need to have permission from a land owner to shoot on his land or be a member of a club. If you go the club route beware because they may stipulate you keep the weapons there. Best trek around the countryside asking farmers. Took me a while but it worked out. I bribed them with whisky. After all they get nothing really from the deal and potentially a lot of hassle. Compared to that search getting two referees from the approved groups is a doddle.

It really is designed as a tax gathering system as there are so many rules around and to add anything is a variation which costs £26.

I have had my certificates for ten years and Plod have not done any surprise visits never mind at 0300, nor have they visited anyone I know. You get checked at license renewal, every five years, but in my experience that is it.

I don’t now why he gets 0300 visits but suspect it is the area rather than the process. I also have no problem getting ammo but it is a lot more expensive in Rip Off Britain and we can’t even buy in bulk as ammo sold and held are defined numbers for firearms. You can buy X and hold Y of each type.

IMO it is worth getting the certificates you need, the more who do the more the point is made to our useless government. It is also my understanding that [the number of] gun owners is nearly two million. Mainly shotguns and with some duplication, I have a FAC and a SGC, but the trend is apparently up.

For info on ownership from 2010/2011 see this article. (I hate to use The Guardian for anything bar toilet paper but that is where the data is.) Regards, – Skean Dhude



Economics and Investing:

I just noticed that the silver to gold price ratio has bounced back up to 52-to-1. (It is wise to study these charts.) In my estimation, we have reached another good opportunity to ratio trade out of gold coins and into silver coins, especially for anyone that is over-invested in gold. Be sure to sell gold on a peak day, and buy silver on a dip day. Before this decade is out, I predict the Ag/Au ratio will be under 30-to-1. And by the time we pass our coins on to our great-grandchildren, the ratio may be as low as 15-to-1.) Trust me, they won’t sneer at silver.

Pierre M. highlighted this sobering article: America’s Debt Is Greater than Entire Eurozone’s (and U.K.’s) Combined Debt

Frequent content contributor Diana V. sent this: Millions of Americans Are ‘Squatting’ in Own Homes

R.C. mentioned: Five Alternative Investments To Protect Your Wealth From Inflation

G.G. sent this sign of the times: Tax refunds being used to pay for bankruptcy filings

Timothy R. sent this: Dividing the Food Dollar. The bottom line: Avoid processed foods. Not only will you save money, but you will also be eating more healthy foods. Whenever possible, buy at your local farmer’s market.

G.P. sent this: China Gives Currency More Freedom With New Reform



Odds ‘n Sods:

DuPont’s armored car kit a hit in Brazil. (Thanks to Paul B. for the link.)

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SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large Michael Z. Williamson sent this: Archivist seeks one of every book written

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Tom Sciacca (of Camping Survival) asks: How much water is enough?

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KAF flagged this article: New York Mills Woodworker Offering ‘Build Your Own Casket’ Classes, Coffin Furniture

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I will be a guest speaker (via teleconference) at the Get Prepared Expo, in Springfield, Missouri . The expo will be held on April 28 & 29, 2012 and is being organized by USAPrepares.com. It will be at the Ozarks Empire Fairgrounds.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Don’t go to stupid places with stupid people and do stupid things.” – Frank Sharpe Jr., firearms trainer and founder of Fortress Defense Consultants LLC



Note from JWR:

Today we present two more entries for Round 40 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 40 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



From Rainwater to Drinking Water, by Former Echo Trooper

Thanks for what SurvivalBlog done for the prepper community. I just had a feeling weighing on my heart to share this information. So here it is.

In any survival situation, water is in the top two things that must be had in order to survive if not at the top of the list. What I’m going to describe is how to set up a rainwater catchment system. The first thing to do is decide how much water you want to harvest. Then you need to decide how to hold that amount. Whether it is a couple food grade 55 gallon drums linked together or an underground AquaBox system that can hold thousands of gallons. Next you need to set up your structure, be it your home, shop building, barn, or animal housing, you will need to have guttering with a down spout. A steel roof is preferred by most for this, but any roof will work. At this point you need to know how you are going to use the water that is collected. If you are just going to use it to water your garden or your livestock, it doesn’t need to be filtered. If you are planning on using it for drinking water, then it will need to be filtered or purified in some fashion. This essay will go through the steps for drinking water.

For every square foot of roof that you can harvest, you will get a half gallon of rainwater for every inch of rain. [JWR Adds: To be precise, multiply .623 gallons by the number of square feet of your roof.]

Read more at eHow: How to Calculate Rainfall for Harvesting

So you can figure how big of tank you need by multiplying the square feet by the average rainfall for your location and that will give you an rough figure of how much water you can expect from that roof.

Let’s start at the top of the water system. You have your roof with its guttering attached. Does it have a leaf guard mounted on it to filter out the leaf litter? If not you can install a Invisaflow Flex Gate Downspout Filter on the downspout and install a stainless steel mosquito screen on the bottom where it connects to a First Flush Diverter to keep the little suckers out of the tank. They will find their way into your tank otherwise. In some locations, these are required by code.

After the water passes through the Downspout Filter, you will want to install what a First Flush Diverter. There are several styles of these, but the basic design is this. The water comes into the Diverter and fills it up, doing so causes a rubber ball to float up to a tee connection. The first water off the roof is in the bottom of the Diverter with all the bird droppings, dirt and small bits that the Basket Filter missed. Once the ball goes up to the tee connection, the rain water is diverted to a second pipe and sent on its way to the tank of your choice.

Now for the tank. Is it light or dark in color? If sunlight can penetrate, it will grow beautiful green algae. Now, unless you like the taste of algae in your ice water, you will want to paint your tank a dark, opaque color. The actual color does not matter as long as light cannot get to the water. After the tank is painted, you will need to attach the pipe from the Diverter. Use a hole saw the same size as your pipe, you want as tight a fit as possible. After inserting the pipe, seal all around it with a silicone caulking. Next you will want to put in an overflow pipe of the same size as your inlet pipe. Place it as high on the side of the tank as possible for the maximum amount of water harvest. This pipe will also need a mosquito screen as well. Attach as above. Lastly on the tank you will need to attach your water line. Depending on location and use will determine the size of line or lines that you want.

Running your water line from tank to destination, you have a choice of running it above ground or trenching it in. In some locations you may have to run it under the frost line to prevent freezing and to meet code requirements.

The following is one scenario that could be used for hilly terrain in an off grid situation:

Up-slope from your cabin you have a small barn/wood shed/chicken coop and you decide that you want a gravity fed water system that could also be used for fighting fires if the need arises. First thing you do is attach the correct length of guttering to the lower eave of the building. You lucked out in the fact that it already has a steel roof. After installing the leaf guard and down spout, you attach a Basket Filter that you picked up at a local home improvement superstore. You then install a First Flush Diverter you built from plans you found on YouTube. You run the diverter line to the 275 gallon poly tank that you picked up at the farm and ranch store. (You painted it the same color as the barn/wood shed/ chicken coop.) You then dug a trench from the tank to the cabin and ran a 2 inch water line to within 75 feet of the cabin. Here you plan on installing a freeze proof faucet for fire fighting. You then ran a 3/4 inch line that you attached to the 2 inch line the rest of the way to the cabin. Once at the cabin, you run the line inside to a small holding tank with a spigot or to an in line filter then to the holding tank. After back filling the trench, you run the overflow pipe in another direction. You just happen to have some 4 inch flex landscaping pipe and run the overflow pipe into it and run it towards your pond. After trenching and back filling the overflow, you stack up firewood around your tank to better hide it from those you wish not to know about it and to protect it somewhat from possible gun fire from same. Not to mention it will keep more sunlight off of it and partially insulate it from winter temps. Another option is to bury the whole tank which will protect it from freezing, gunfire and sunlight.

Ideally, you would have some form of rain water harvest on every structure at your retreat. It can be used to water gardens and orchards, water all livestock, top off your fish pond with the overflow from the tanks, keep your hydroponic set up with fresh water, run a line to that outdoor shower house with the solar heated water system on the roof. You could run it to the automatic water system in the rabbit house or chicken coop.
Another type of rainwater catchment would to use a pond. You could use an existing pond but it would require draining in order to install the pipe line. The best bet would be to install the piping during construction. Before the dam is complete, take a 4 inch PVC pipe and run the non-flared end through a hole in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket that you cut with a hole saw. You did drill countless 1/4 inch holes all over the bucket first didn’t you? I thought so. Now replace the bucket’s lid that also is quite holey. If you haven’t removed the metal handle to the bucket, now would be a good time. This will be your filter to keep your fish stock from being sucked down the pipe. Now install the 4 inch PVC pipe, several feet up from the the bottom of the pond, through the dam. You want it up, off the bottom for two reasons. First, you want it up out of the muck that is on the bottom of all ponds. And second and most importantly, you don’t want to drain the pond if someone accidentally or purposefully leaves the line open.

After the pipe is installed and the dam finished, you will want to install a down sizer. Either a 4 inch to 3 inch or a 4 inch to 2 inch. Right behind the sizer, you need to install a valve so the line can be turned off at the source. Now is when you run the water line to you choice of location. End the line with a freeze-proof faucet. A pond with fish in it makes a great source of water for a garden or orchard. The fish fertilizer is loved by all vegetation. This set up will also give you the head needed for some firefighting applications also, depending on location of pond to fire. You could even plumb this into a drip irrigation system or soaker hose network. Just downsize the line from 2 inch to 1 inch or smaller so that you don’t flood the area too quickly.

Now these are not the only rainwater catchment methods out there, they are only two methods. I’m sure that there are several SurvivalBlog readers that know other ways and hope that they share them. Also any critiques or advice is welcomed.



Ninja Prepping: Learning from the Medieval Mystery Warriors of Japan, by Alex N.

Imagining guys running around in black pajamas and swords, disappearing in a puff of smoke? Well let’s start with a proper… non Hollywood idea of what the Ninja were… or are… and then see what we can learn from them.

Today we have this image of the Ninja as evil assassins sneaking around Japanese castles and killing under cover of night. What most people don’t know is that the Ninja were simple farmers, priests and shopkeepers who were forced out of Japanese society and hunted by their own government. They were the ultimate survivors. In fact the word Ninja in old fashioned Japanese translates to “the person who overcomes”.

Early in Japanese history a Samurai General named Daisuke Togakure lost a battle; and as was tradition in Japan his master ordered him to kill himself and ordered that his family be stripped of all title and land. Instead this Samurai General chose to survive. He fled his home with his family and went to live in the wilderness. Now an outcast being hunted by his own government he was forced to re-invent his understanding of combat. Togakure met up with some Chinese immigrants who had fled the massive wars going on in China. Their knowledge of battle tactics, medicine and technology from all over the Asian main continent helped Togakure form what would become one of the earliest and oldest traditions of the Ninja. (This is just a rough and quick version of the oral history of the founding if this tradition) There are many other traditions of Ninjutsu but they all are similar in that they contain a philosophy of life which values surviving and overcoming or “persevering” and which leads to a simple life style with a very alternative method of self defense. The philosophy of the Ninja stood in opposition of the Bushido code of the Samurai which contained a strong class structure, and espoused suicide as a noble and honorable ideal. To the Samurai the Ninja were dishonorable, evil creatures who had no right to live… the Ninja just wanted to be left alone to live their lives as they saw fit. Enough for my quick history lesson, for more information on the Ninja I recommend the book Ninjutsu: History and Tradition by Dr. Masaaki Hatsumi.

As a person who has studied and practiced this tradition for several years now I have found some great principles which are a guide I use in life and in my preparations to continue life. In all of my training and all of my study of the Ninja culture as it existed hundreds of years ago and as it exists today I have found five principles that seem to apply to the Ninjas secret to not only survive but to thrive. Here I plan to lay out a quick example of these five principles and how we may learn from them to protect us from things to come.

Principle #1: Strong and clean spirit
The Ninja were mostly followers of Shinto or Buddhism, however their traditions have strongly embraced members of many faiths and as a devout Christian I have found this to mean a strong relationship with my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. The Ninja speak of attaining an unfettered mind; that you should know who you are at your deepest core. Life should be spent learning, knowing and practicing what you are. This done in everyday life gives an unfettered mind and leads to good decision making under even the worst situations. With a strong foundation in Christ and a daily relationship with him, I find that when hard decisions come I have no trouble knowing how to proceed or at least knowing where to get my answers. This leaves me with a mind and heart which knows what is right and able to act upon it, not getting bogged down in the heat of the moment. When TSHTF it helps to already know in your body, mind, and soul what to do.

Principle #2: Utility.
While the Samurai prided themselves on beautiful swords passed down through their family for generations and body armor decorated with family crests and religious icons the Ninja often used little more than modified farming implements as weapons. This was in part because of the ban on civilians owning or carrying swords… (we can learn a lesson here) but also because of the principle of utility. To the Ninja they were not mere weapons, but rather everything was a tool. A Ninja didn’t pride himself on a fancy sword; instead he would make a sword which like all of his tools served more than one purpose. His other commonly used weapons were converted farming implements. One great example of a converted farm implement turned multi tool was the Kasuragama. It was essentially a small hand held sickle about 3 feet long used for harvesting grain. Sharpened with a rope or chain attached at the end, at the end of the rope was a heavy iron weight. This was used to tie up or entangle an enemy, and then the sickle blade would be used to finish them off. Most of the Ninjas weapons served many uses… sort of like an ancient Leatherman tool. Another example would be the Kunai. This tool started as a small shovel or trowel and was adapted to be used as a dagger, throwing blade and was even used to saw holes in walls for clandestine missions. Also for consideration were the Tekagi-Shuko which were iron bands with spikes on them worn on the hands and feet used for climbing trees and walls, but they were also used extensively as a hidden weapon which was both lethal and able to deflect or catch a sword. Sure the Ninja would have never turned down a fancy ray skin and ivory Katana, but he would usually be found with a much cruder instrument. Much as I am sure a Ninja would have loved to own a fancy piston driven AR-15 but would have likely found more use and value in an FN/FAL or AK.

Principle #3: Simplicity.
As I said earlier the Ninja were mostly farmers and merchants, but they could be found in all levels and aspects of life. There were even some Ninja amongst the ruling class of Japan at one time. What was common amongst them was that they strove to live a simple life. Both historic and modern Ninja rarely had lavish homes or castles. Rarely were known to frequent parties and social events. Instead they lived simple lives enjoying the things in life which were of true value. Simplicity permeated all aspect of their life. Often a diet of simple, healthy home grown food was eaten. With this simplicity in lifestyle one also becomes more in tuned to your own environment, able to notice small changes in weather and even understand nature on a closer level. Rarely did the Ninja draw attention to themselves. Instead of going off to become famous warriors and have grand adventures most Ninja lived quiet lives in their villages and trained diligently in their fighting arts; not for glory, but simply as a means to protect them and their families from the outside world. OPSEC was a large part of this simple life. When the majority of the country you live in wants you dead why would you want to announce your presence and tell the whole world that there is a village full of trained warriors living here? This shows that an entire community of people can live their lives every day just like everyone else, yet still prepare and train. The rest of the world didn’t know then and they don’t need to know now.

Principle #4: Community and Self-Reliance.
Contrary to what some may argue community and self reliance are not mutually exclusive ideas. The Ninja were experts at having a community OF self reliance. The Ninja often lived in very close nit villages and towns where they worked and trained together so as to provide everything they needed and thus insulate themselves from the rest of Japan. Today we have been trained to think that community means reliance upon others, but who decides where our community ends and who we are to be reliant on? If we were to think in terms of a community of self reliance, perhaps in our churches and neighborhoods we could go along way to change our nation in a better direction. Instead of thinking its all about me and my preparations we should look to find a group of like-minded people with similar moral values and help each other work and train to provide for our every need locally. (Mr. Rawles has expounded this idea for many years, and I say it’s a sound principle wherever it comes from and can be applied to far more than just a retreat group.) This could go along ways even in our own neighborhoods and churches to insulate us from the insanity which is happening to the rest of the world. Imagine you belonged to a church or lived in a town which took no federal subsidies, grew its own local food and had a strong tradition of tradesman and craftsman industry… how bad would a collapse of the dollar and international economy be for you then? Not good for sure but a lot better than what your looking at now.

Principle #5: Fluidity.
Absolutely essential to the fighting style and even day to day life of the Ninja is the principle of fluidity. The Ninja fighting style involves five principle ways or feelings of combat. Each one represents an element of existence and grants almost a personality to your movement and technique. Examples are fire, a strong hot burst of energy cutting through an opponent or earth, the stable and immovable feeling of power. The five elements (earth, wind, fire, water, and the void) are not in themselves all powerful; it is the Ninjas ability to transition from one to the other and combine them in response to any situation which is essential. This fluidity was not just expressed in the elemental forms of combat, but instead is the fundamental difference between the Samurai and the Ninja. The Samurai followed set in stone techniques and movements. Memorize enough movements and you will have one for every situation. The Ninja started when they had to adapt and abandon old ways; this flexibility allowed them to meet all situations and adapt their techniques to any situation. A fundamental idea in the Ninja philosophy is not to have expectations of what will happen, but instead to be ready for and deal with whatever comes. Work towards your goals but adapt to the outcomes as they happen, don’t get caught in a frustrating loop of things not going your way and reacting with the same effort every time. We prepare for a myriad of predicted situations, financial collapse, martial law, foreign invasion, civil unrest, tyrannical dictatorships or natural disasters. We should not have categories of tools and utensils for each scenario all stored in labeled lockers and sealed for that day. We should have basic tools which will work in any situation. Tools which serve multiple purposes and can be adapted to anything we need.

There are many things we need to be prepared and I pose we can learn from the Ninja just what we need. We can use the five elements to know what we need to have in order to flow from one situation to the next.

WATER: Just as water feeds life and contains a power in both its ability to draw away from and crash back onto anything, to slowly erode a mountain, feed the tallest tree; we need the essentials of life. Food and water, staples which will allow us to pull away from society in crazy times or from a disaster; then crash back into the world to effect proper change because we did not have to corrupt ourselves or compromise our morals to obtain the basic necessities of life. Having extras of the basic staples of life also can allow us to slowly erode the negative influences in the world around us by being able to help those in need. When a friend or neighbor loses a job or goes through a personal tragedy having extras allows us to help, possibly preventing them from becoming dependent on a corrupt system of entitlements and government dependency.

EARTH: Strong foundations in faith and community allow us to stand like a rock against the corruption and destruction around us. Drawing strength from our foundations in the lord and our ability to stand on our own can enable us to be the rock upon which the golden hordes can wash upon with no effect. Earth also is the principle in which our retreats and our property can give us strength. It is the foundation in this world from which we draw strength. Having our own land, untouched and uncontrolled by the outside world allows us to have a foundation which can not be corrupted; to remain in our communities and to hold our morals untouched by the rest of this corruption we see around us today.

FIRE: Fire is our arms, our brute force through firepower.
“Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed; as they are in almost every kingdom of Europe. The supreme power in America cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword; because the whole body of the people are armed, and constitute a force superior to any bands of regular troops that can be, on any pretense, raised in the United States” -Noah Webster
The Ninja as with all people of Japan were disarmed by the ruling elites, however the Ninja refused to comply, instead they fought back. There is a time in life when life can only continue to exist through the direct application of violence. Fire comes in a burst of violence, heat and action. It is emotional, but not un-controlled. Fire also represents our passion, the passion which makes us act. It is the burning sense of right and wrong which protects our very soul from the corruption of the world. When the world around us descends into chaos it is this passion for justice which will separate us from the looters, not just our stockpile of food.

WIND: Wind leaves us aloof, it represents the lighthearted sense of security preparedness gives us. Knowing that you can not be harmed by a grid down situation, or a food shortage; knowing that you are ready to take on armed bands of looters, or able to provide medical aid to a family member. This is the goal of every prepper, and with it comes a feeling that you can flit through life untouched like a leaf blowing in the wind. This feeling does not come from having stockpiles of dry beans, nor does it come from an arsenal of guns and bullets. This feeling comes from the training we seek. Having beans and bullets does you no good without the ability to use them and the confidence which comes from training. The feeling of being un-touchable effects your very movement and every aspect of life. Being self reliant, with your own business and self sustaining property gives you this confidence and allows you to take stands politically and economically without fear of losing your job or being evicted from your home if you oppose the powers at be.

THE VOID: This is often a difficult concept. In a sense the void is entirely what preparing is. The void is the sense that anything can and will happen. On one hand it is the knowledge of all potential dangers and the ability to handle them. On the other hand it is the ability to react with anything, having every tool in your toolbox so that you can react and adapt in any way necessary. Basically preppers have a stereotype, a reputation for being the crazy guy sitting in his basement full of food and guns with a frying pan for a helmet declaring the end is near. Where the void can help is in the idea of not being an idea. Not being anything in particular, be void of form. Don’t fit a stereotype; don’t buy tools or equipment because you are told it’s the cool prepper thing to do. Void means that your entire life is intertwined with the principles of survival preparation and you live the way you believe. Prepping isn’t just something you do, it is a part of who you are and in everything you do. You do not have the form of a prepper, you’re just prepared.

I have done my best in this article to both educate you about the medieval survivalists of Japan and to point out lessons we can learn from their approach to life. I am by no means an expert in the subject, but I have brought to you my understandings. I hope that this has been a great help for you. If you are interested in this subject and would like to pursue it further I strongly encourage you to do so. There is so much that the Ninja of our modern world can teach and can give you for your survival preparations. To learn more I suggest you seek a group called the Bujinkan.



Letter Re: Cold Steel Bushman Knives

Mr. Rawles,
I feel compelled to comment on Pat’s latest review for the Cold Steel “Bushman” line of knives. I have been a Cold Steel fan for years and like Pat, am completely sold on their products, and I have owned/own a lot of their line. I have owned approximately 15 Bushman knives over the years, some I gave away to friends and family and some I still own…and some I’ve broke. Yes, it broke.

Towards the end of Pat’s review, he talks about attaching the hollow handle of the Bushman to a good wood shaft.  I wanted to try this, and already knowing I needed more than a broomhandle to make myself a spear, I went ahead and ordered three spare shafts that usually are made for Cold Steels’ assegai spears. I know that the spear shafts are excellent shafts since I’ve owned several over the years and have used and abused them and only ever managed to break one…but that was more my fault than the product failure. Anyway, I attached two of my Bushman knives to these new spear shafts and began to throw. On the second throw of the first spear I made, it stuck into the target just fine, but the weight of the shaft pulling downward was to much for the Bushman and broke the blade completely in half. I was more than a little upset. The second spear I had made broke on the first throw! Once again, the weight of the shaft pulling down was too much, and broke about 3/4″ off the tip.

Now, is this product failure? I don’t think so. I highly doubt I would have broken them if I had used a shorter spear shaft. BTW, I had ordered the longer shafts that are about 6′ long. I was simply using these knives in the way they are not meant to be used. The Bushman knives do have a hollow handle to make a spear, but it doesn’t mean you should do it. In my opinion, if you make a long shaft Bushman spear, it should be made for thrusting only (not throwing), or to keep distance between yourself and a predator.

All this being said, I love my Bushman knives. They are solid products that are worth way more than you will pay for them. Just thought I’d share. – Joseph J.