“O LORD, though our iniquities testify against us, do thou [it] for thy name’s sake: for our backslidings are many; we have sinned against thee.
O the hope of Israel, the saviour thereof in time of trouble, why shouldest thou be as a stranger in the land, and as a wayfaring man [that] turneth aside to tarry for a night?
Why shouldest thou be as a man astonied, as a mighty man [that] cannot save? yet thou, O LORD, [art] in the midst of us, and we are called by thy name; leave us not.” – Jeremiah 14:7-9 (KJV)
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 40 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 40 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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Defending Static Positions in a Survival Setting, by J.G.
You’re a prepper. You have stores of food and water, supplies, commo gear, and everything you could conceivably need in order to survive the Apocalypse. Unfortunately, that also means that you’re a target. Eventually everyone in the neighborhood will figure out that you and yours are maintaining your weight while everyone else in society is starving, and your neighbors will cease to behave in a neighborly way. To say “Oh well, I guess I should have prepared” is not the human way. They will attempt to take your provisions by force.
This is one of the primary reasons that I advocate for bugging out to a location where your entire extended family, and maybe some carefully chosen friends, can cohabitate and provide from common security. It’s great to have massive stores of supplies and food to keep you alive, but it means nothing if those supplies are violently removed from your possession because of a lack of security. Better to be in a community of like-minded people who are all endeavoring towards survival than to attempt to stick it out alone. There is a reason why communities formed at the dawn of humanity, and provision for the common defense is one of them.
That being said, simply having warm bodies around your property will do little to prevent pilferage and outright violence against your provisions should worse come to worst. You need to have some knowledge of the most basic principles of defense in order to being preparing for this sort of situation now. That being said, I’ll make a brief discussion of the basics and help you see the light at the end of the tunnel for preparing your property for the fall of civilization.
Borrowing from military doctrine, here are the principles of defense in a nutshell:
All around defense. It should go without saying that all around defense should be a top priority, but I guarantee that there are people making this mistake as we speak in their defense preparations. It does absolutely no good to have the most high-speed, kick-resistant, steel-reinforced front door in the world if you don’t lock your back door. Likewise, all of the provisions in the world will not help you if they are beyond the scope of your ability to effectively protect them.
Take a thorough look at your security situation. Think about how many people you have to secure your location, and the amount of space that can be reasonably secured by that number of people. As you think through these items, remember that the average sentry is good for about 4 hours, semi-awake for 8 hours, and utterly worthless at the 12 hour mark. It doesn’t matter how well they are trained or how motivated they are. Nobody can stand watch forever.
After a gut check, decide how much real estate you can reasonably secure. If you don’t have enough people to secure your entire five acre estate, then consider securing only the main house. If you don’t have enough people for that, consider securing only the basement. If it’s one bedroom, then so be it. Fit as much useful stuff as you can into one bedroom and be willing to part with the rest of your provisions in the event of an armed incursion. Knowing what you can and can’t secure will keep you alive.
I recommend organizing your supplies in accordance with the priority of the supply. If you know you can secure one room, but think you may be able to hold three rooms, you would place your highest priority items in the room that you know without a doubt can be secured indefinitely. Such items might include guns and ammo, drinking water, and food. Other less important items can be placed in other rooms that you are less likely to be able to hold.
Defense in depth. On the battlefield, we use this concept to ensure that we have redundancy in our security apparatus. In other words, we have a mine field, then a fence, then a row of obstacles, then a bunch of defensive positions. If one security apparatus fails, there are more layers of the onion remaining. Such considerations are important for defending large expanses of property. They are also vitally important for defending a single family dwelling, and can be micro-applied to that job as well.
For instance, you probably have a dead bolt on your front door. You should also have a door bar in place. Beyond the door bar, you should have a wedge bar. If an intruder gets beyond those defenses, you should have solid doors with dead bolt locks on each interior room of your home. You get the idea. The more layers of security you have in place, the more time you will have to consolidate your family in the safe room, arm yourselves, and/or bug out when trouble comes knocking.
The first two principles are no-brainers that absolutely everyone should be implementing. The next three are more useful for folks who have enough people to mount a proper defense of their property and provisions.
Key Terrain. Know the layout of your property. Be able to physically occupy, or occupy by fire all of the key terrain in your area. For instance, if there is a giant hill overlooking your property, you should have a plan to place someone on that hill. It will be an effective vantage point to detect advancing trouble makers, and will allow the alarm to be sounded more quickly, thus providing precious minutes of preparation for the incursion.
To occupy by fire means that, in the event that you can’t physically place a person on the hill, you can at least cover it by sniper fire, etc. The basic idea is that if you can’t use the hill to your advantage, your enemy shouldn’t be able to use the hill either. Denying the enemy this advantage means that he must essentially fight blind, which tilts the battle in our favor.
Avenues of Approach. Avenues of approach allow the bad guys rapid, high-speed infiltration into our secure zone, and must therefore be dealt with. Examples might be roads, dry creek beds, large game trails, or any other terrain through which men and vehicles can move rapidly. Avenues of approach are a major concern because a heavy truck traveling at forty miles per hour will more than likely have no trouble defeating your gates, fences, etc.
The idea when dealing with avenues of approach is twofold. First, we want to limit high speed ingress to our property. If we have a long, straight road, we might want to employ massive speed bumps, deep ditches across portions of the road, and serpentine obstacles to ensure that any vehicles are speed breaking prior to approaching our property. This gives us time to properly assess the approaching people and determine whether or not they are a threat, and react accordingly.
Some examples of ways to mitigate avenues of approach for foot troops are to utilize tangle foot, punji trenches, and barbed wire (although I don’t recommend digging punji trenches until the actual fall of civilization seems imminent).
A second concern in regards to avenues of approach is sometimes called combat engineering. If we can control the route that our enemies take onto our property, then we have an opportunity to ensure that bad news awaits them at every turn. For instance, we might deny access to a creek bed only to turn our enemy onto a driveway, knowing that we have the driveway covered by interlocking fields of fire (more on this in a minute). The result would be a turkey shoot. Game over. We win.
It is noteworthy that there is one exception to the avenues of approach rule. Stand-off distance. Dense vegetation acts as a natural speed break to advancing enemies in most situations. Nobody in their right mind would advance through a jungle when a road is available if the tactical objective is speed, surprise, and violence of action. Of course, having dense vegetation up to your perimeter, while it may slow enemy advances, will also serve to obscure your vision and make defensive adjustments harder. For that reason, we need to clear a stand-off ring around our perimeter.
Clearing a stand-off ring is done by taking down trees, removing dense vegetation, and to the extent possible eliminating cover and concealment. This will necessitate the enemy advancing over open ground in order to attack your secure zone, and should enable you a huge benefit in defending it. In a perfect world, we would want to have a stand-off distance equal to the maximum effective range of our rifle, but I realize that this may not always be possible. To any extent, some buffer is better than none when it comes to discouraging armed incursion. People looking at that vast open field will think twice before bum rushing your perimeter.
Interlocking fields of fire. If you are fortunate enough to have defensive positions and people to man them, you should test your defensive positions to ensure that you have achieved interlocking fields of fire. This means that the area of responsibility for one fox hole crosses over with that of the fox hole next to them, and that there are no gaps in your defenses.
Planning out your fields of fire serves several purposes. First, it conserves ammunition by limiting a defender to a certain area of responsibility. He doesn’t shoot at targets that are not right in front of him, and thus has a lower chance of wasting ammunition. Second, the overall confidence of the defense force will be bolstered by the existence of a coherent plan. Believe it or not, this is an important aspect of keeping morale high. Finally, planning out your fields of fire ensures that you have checked all of the defensive boxes and that no bad guys are going to slip through the cracks. I suggest using limiting stakes to mark off the areas of responsibility for each defensive position, and creating range cards with known distances to landmarks in their field of fire for quick, accurate engagement of targets.
If you can follow those five conventions you will be in pretty good shape in terms of physical security of your provisions and housing. It’s a little easier said than done, and it can be daunting if you are preparing your first defense plan. You can feel free to contact me with questions, and I’ll do my best to get back with an answer. I’ve done this sort of planning in Iraq, Afghanistan, and other locations throughout the world, so I’m pretty sure that you can also get it done in your neighborhood.
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Letter Re: Firearms Laws in England
Mr. Rawles:
A few years ago, my wife and I left our Texas ranch for a three month long hunting safari that took us from Africa to Scotland. We traveled with three rifles, a double in a large African caliber, a .458 Lott bolt, and .300 Winchester Magnum bolt light rifle. As we would transit Schiphol in the Netherlands both ways, I had to apply for two transit permits for the firearms and ammunition as well as for firearm permits in both Tanzania (a former British colony) and in Scotland. Even though I was a setting judge at the time, I had to obtain obligatory character references from the ‘high sheriff’ of the county where I resided. Of these, the transit permit was probably the most difficult as it was literally ‘Dutch’ and for some arcane bureaucratic reason, the office in Holland only turned on the facsimile machine during their operating hours. Stories are legend about expensive firearms being confiscated during transit of Holland and safaris ruined, so given the time delay between application and license, several communications were needed to ensure receipt of the application.
Upon arrival in Houston, we learned the outbound flight to Holland was delayed by one day. With three month’s baggage and three rifles, we were stranded in Houston Hobby Airport. Tiredly, we loaded everything on the tram and set off for the airport hotel. At the hotel, the manager advised we wouldn’t be allowed to keep the rifles in the room with us. I made quite a scene and demanded detailed receipts for the rifles that I valued in total at more than $80,000. The manager decided he didn’t want to be responsible for anything of that value so the rules were relaxed and we kept the rifles with us. So much for the “hotel rules.” Due to the delay, our transit permit through Schiphol was out of date and there was no way to determine if the Dutch would seize the rifles.
We arrived in Africa exhausted following a 24 hour flight but happy to see our firearms. Tanzanian officials examined each rifle, checked barrel lengths and serial numbers against permits, and after a small gratuity, issued the firearm licenses. We had a great time in Africa successful shooting many species including several cape buffalo and a wonderful roan antelope on the last day. Of course that last shot delayed our departure from camp and everything was a mad rush again. We boarded KLM in our safari clothes, transited Schiphol to Edinburgh arriving in a snowstorm. Scottish authorities at the airport showed no interest whatsoever in the rifles or ammunition. Baggage and rifles were loaded into a Range Rover rental and off we went in search for our hotel where we would stay for a few days before driving up into the highlands for a stag hunt.
Dressed for equatorial Africa, we received more than a few curious stares in the hotel lobby. The proprietor wanted to see our rifle permits and again lock up the weapons. As he had what the British call a ‘proper’ storage facility and was willing to issue appropriate receipts, I readily released the rifles into his custody. I overheard comments about ‘those crazy Texans’ as we walked away.
We enjoyed Edinburgh for a few days before departing to the highlands. Upon arrival at the hunting manor, a wonderful eighteenth century edifice, the rifles were unpacked and serial numbers again carefully checked against permits. I re-cleaned the rifles (always a good practice because of the possibility of temperature differential induced condensation during travel and need to check for travel related damage).
The barrels were separated from the receiver of the double rifle and each stored separately in two safes as were bolts from the other rifles and ammunition. The next day, a constable arrived to verify proper storage of the rifles. He counted the ammunition for the two heavy African rifles and commented those rifles were ‘too big to shoot here’ and further that the associated ammunition would be recounted upon leaving Scotland.
The next day we set out early in pursuit of highland stag. The professional hunter would not allow me to carry the .300 Win Mag (it would not be ‘proper’). Only when the game was sighted and animal selected, did he hand me the rifle. Quite a difference from Africa where we never went anywhere without our rifles or for that manner, anywhere else I have hunted.
Our Second Amendment freedom should be cherished. It is unique among the world’s nations. Sincerely, – Panhandle Rancher
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Economics and Investing:
G.G. flagged this “must read” piece: Taxes Prompt More Americans to Renounce Citizenship
Jim Willie: Golden Eye of Hurricane
Tim Geithner Spills The Beans, U.S. Debt Crisis Looms
Globalization, Inflation & Taxes: 3 Key Factors That Will Destroy The Middle Class
Items from The Economatrix:
Zero Hedge reports: Central Banks Favour Gold as IMF Warns of “Collapse of Euro” and “Full Blown Panic in Financial Markets”
Insiders Tell Jim Sinclair $17 Trillion in Quantitative Easing Coming
Europe Will Collapse in May-June
US Roads and Bridges Being Built by Chinese Companies as American Economy Teeters on Collapse
G.G. suggested a piece by Simon Black wherein he discusses Senate Bill 1813–legislation creating passport controls and mandatory black boxes for new cars: Something is Wrong with This Picture.
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Odds ‘n Sods:
Shamus H. sent this: The Power Pot. I wonder if they’ve been able to overcome the problem of TEG junctions burning out. (That has always been their weakness.)
o o o
Ann Barnhardt’s speech at Liberty First. Warning: Her speech includes a bit of foul language.
o o o
George S. sent a link to a fascinating video of the world’s ocean currents.
o o o
F.J. sent this: Alexandria Chicken Coop and Run
o o o
For those who like the British DPM camouflage pattern (which is great for most North American woodlands), SurvivalBlog reader A.P. spotted this bargain: British Military DPM 85 Jackets for $9.97 each. But be forewarned that these don’t come with the green fleece liners, and that the company has the matching trousers available only in size Medium.
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"Depression is Anger without the enthusiasm." – The late Derry Brownfield
Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 40 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 40 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Bugging Out, But to Where?, by Paddy O.
I read a lot of material in SurvivalBlog and several other similar sites about methods and means of bugging out if you live in a city or other area where it would be undesirable to live during some kind of calamity. After seeing so much about this idea of waiting until the SHTF, or some other event that would necessitate leaving the area in which you live, I feel the need to weigh in and give the position of the person who’s already living in the area to which many of the city dwellers are being encouraged to bug out to. I hope to offer a very swift kick in the seat to all those pondering the “bug out” issue. This business of advising people about waiting until there’s a great calamity to leave the city has got to stop.
I cringe every time I see an article giving advice on how to make preparations to leave your city for a better place to ride out an economic calamity or other kind of disaster, man-made or otherwise. My questions to all those pondering this issue are these: 1.) How convinced are you that you may need to “bug out” at some point in the future, and 2.) If you are at least mostly persuaded of the future need to bug out, then why haven’t you done it already?
I realize that there can be myriad reasons why someone may feel unable to relocate even though they may want to. You don’t want to move away from your family, your job, your kid’s school, your friends…You don’t want a longer commute, you’re underwater on your house, you like your house. The list goes on and on. My guess, however, is that when the SHTF like so many of us are fully persuaded that it will, many of these things that now keep you from pulling up stakes and moving will drop distantly behind the desire to simply stay alive.
If you believe in the crash what this web site and so many others are forecasting, get out now. If you have to short sell your house and rent in the area that you plan to bug out to, then do so. Don’t let a ding to your credit score or the “demotion” of going from homeowner to renter keep you from doing what you believe needs to be done. Don’t let the tenure you have on the job keep you from making a wise and prudent decision. If you don’t get out now, then plan on staying put. If you refuse to make whatever sacrifices are necessary to relocate now while it is safe to do so, then harden your current domicile and settle in and ride it out.
Post-SHTF, if you do succeed in escaping the city and reach the nearest rural like the one I live in, then what? If you come to my town, what exactly am I supposed to do with you? Are you coming empty-handed? Do you have any skills that might make you a welcome addition to my community? If the answer to those two questions is no, tell me exactly why I should welcome you. “It’s the charitable thing to do”. It certainly would be. However, if being charitable to the empty-handed refugee means possibly starving my own family, for whom I have been diligently laying in store, then my being charitable to you may violate my own mandate to “provide for my own, specially those of my own house”. If I do that, I’m worse than an infidel and have denied the faith (I Tim 5:8).
No, it’s not at all that we in the rural areas are unkind, uncaring, uncharitable or unfriendly. On the contrary, me and my neighbors are the kind of people you want to live near. But if the cities are burning down, we will be overwhelmed by the influx of thousands refugees trying to escape to a safer place, which will inherently make the place they are escaping to less safer. If you think you may have a mind to ever “bug out” then do it now, integrate yourself into the community and become a functioning part of it. Learn the area and the climate and get started taking care of yourself and your family. You’ll be miles ahead of those who waited.
If your survival plan is to flee the city and live off the charity of others in the countryside, let me put this plainly; you’re going to die. It’s not that there will be a lack of charity-on the contrary, in hard times, people can rise up and surprise you with how giving they can be. But there just will not be enough to give. Immediately post-SHTF, the amounts of most every vital commodity (gasoline, sugar, rice, beans, toilet paper, etc.) will be finite. There won’t be any more coming, maybe not for a long, long time. What I have may be all I will have for months or years. And with my six kids, 2 kids in law, 2 parents and 2 siblings to try to care for, how charitable can I afford to be?
In Matthew 25, Jesus gives a parable of ten virgins, five of whom were wise and five of whom were foolish. The five wise foresaw the need and made preparations (just like Proverbs 27:12 advises). The five foolish, being in close proximity to the five wise, must have undoubtedly also foreseen the need, but chose not to make preparations. In the end, the five foolish tried to borrow from the five wise, but the wise were wise enough to know that if they shared, there would have not been enough for everyone. Read it folks. Think about it. And remember this key point; They were all virgins (good, godly people). They were just not all wise. True wisdom is knowing your limitations.
Until last year, I lived in a rural area with a few acres, fruit trees, a garden, chickens, and lots of trees for firewood. A defensible place too. But believing like I do in the eminent crash, I felt it was not good enough. We have since moved even further out into the hills to a larger plot of land that is much better suited to a self-sustaining life. The new house is larger so we can take in more of my family members who live in places that will be undesirable WTSHTF. Every decision I have made for the last several years has been with the goal in mind of taking care of as many of my family as possible for as long a period of time post-crash.
Make the move now. Don’t wait another month to decide. If you read this site or any others like it, and you live in an urban area, get out now. Make the preparations. Do the research, retrain yourself in another field of work if you have to, and relocate. If you read this site and others like it, your excuses for why you can’t…will not cut it post-crash. I know many will think I’m unreasonable or unkind, or just plain ignorant of how difficult for some what I am suggesting may be. I’m not an ignorant or unkind man. I’m an associate pastor, a marriage and family counselor, and I give multiple thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours a year to help others. And this is why I’m writing this piece now. To help someone get off the fence and make a choice. Decide to do it, or decide not to.
There are three kinds of people when speaking of Emergency Preparedness; 1-those like JWR, myself and many others who are already prepared, 2-those who watch American Idol and play video games all day and are completely oblivious to what’s happening in the world around them, and 3-those who are right in the middle of the first two. It’s those middle folks I’m worried about and talking to right now. The ones who say “I’d like to prepare but…” or “I’d like to move to a rural area but…” Because they are semi-aware and watching, these are the ones who will be the first out of the city and heading to the hills with little or nothing to sustain themselves but the hope that the folks “in them thar hills” will be ready for them. We won’t be. Even the most prepared among us will have our hands full when the gas pumps stop working, the electricity shuts off and the trucks stop rolling.
Either you make the move now and get settled on a little homestead in the country-whatever it costs you, or settle in where you are. Store up some food, get some guns-even a used .22-and figure out how you can hide out where you are and ride out the storm. It won’t be easy. It will be very rough for a long time. Even if you can move to a different home in the city you live in that has a more defensible scenario-one with a basement you can seal off and conceal-do it. Leaving the city during a calamity will be at least as dangerous as staying put. Know your neighbors. If your neighbors are creeps, move and get some better ones. If you live in apartment, get out. Rent a house with like-minded friends and split the costs of preparing if you can’t do it alone.
I will no doubt be accused of being cold hearted in telling people not to flee to my area. If you show up on my doorstep, I’ll give you what I can-probably a Rubbermaid container of rice and a gallon of water. I’ve already stockpiled lots of containers for this very thing. But then what will you do? Not everybody here can or will do that. And even if they could, how long can you live like that? The idea of going to national forest and living off the land is ludicrous. I won’t even begin to list the hundreds of reasons why that won’t work.
In looking at the current condition the world is in, we may still have 6 to 12 months before TSHTF, but it WILL HTF. Use the time you have wisely. Do something to become more prepared every single day. Pray for wisdom. James 1:5 says we can do that and God will give it to us liberally.
Letter Re: Mortgages–WTSHF, Inflation and Deflation
Hello Mr. Rawles,
First of all, thank you for all that you do. Your books and your site are invaluable information to me. They have helped me to get pretty-well prepared.
I have a question about debt. Every survival type that I have listened to or read says “get out of debt”. I am out of debt, but I am considering obtaining a small mortgage in order to be able to purchase a place that will be a better refuge location for me and my family. (Unfortunately, it will have to be on the east side of the Mississippi River.)
What I don’t understand is what will happen to mortgages when the economy collapses. Surely they (if there is a ‘they’ then) can’t foreclose on everyone. Won’t people who are heavily in debt just have their debt evaporate with the collapse of the dollar? Can you explain or link me to a good explanation of what will happen financially in our country when the dollar collapses?
Thank you so very much, – M. in North Carolina
JWR Replies: I concur that installment debt from any banking institution is a bad thing. Granted, there may be mass inflation ahead, and you’d be paying off your mortgage with cheaper dollars. But you can’t count on that. Inflation is just one potential outcome. Another possibility is the prospect of continuing house price declines and a further deteriorating job market, as we slide into a 1930s-style deflationary depression. That will mean even more layoffs and more foreclosures. A third possible outcome is a total collapse of the economy and a temporary dissolution of governmental authority. But the chance of that is quite small. (It might appeal to some in the “There’s No Government Like No Government” crowd, but the chances of that happening are slim.) The two most tenacious life forms on Earth are cockroaches and bureaucrats.
In the next few years, some of the risks of mortgage debt will be: 1.) Continued deflation in residential real estate. 2.) Higher property taxes. 3.) Higher interest rates, and 3.) A “muddle through” situation, where government is still functioning at the county, state and Federal levels. (Their services may drop off to marginal levels, but they will keep on taxing and overseeing foreclosures. How charming.)
The situation that economist John Mauldin refers to as a “Muddle Through Economy” would be traumatic for any mortgage holder who loses his job. Therefore, I recommend that if you must borrow money to buy a retreat-worthy home that you borrow the money from a family member rather than from a bank.
Economics and Investing:
“Not if, but when” for Spanish bailout, experts believe
For Two Economists, the Buffett Rule Is Just a Start. These French commueconomists want to punish anyone who is successful.
And speaking of French economists, here are some that are more croyable: Global systemic crisis – France 2012-2014: The big republican earthquake and its international impact
Ken S. recommended this piece over at The Daily Reckoning: Global Derivatives: Like Two Drunks Leaning On Each Other
At Zero Hedge: Chris Martenson: “The Trouble With Money”. (Thanks to Jim T. for the link.)
And if those gloomy-doomy charts weren’t enough for you, then check these out: The long debt emergency has arrived – From 1950 to 1980 total US credit market debt to GDP held a ratio of 1.5. Today that figure is above 3.5 with total US credit market debt at $54 trillion.
Items from The Economatrix:
IMF Raises Global Forecast For First Time Since Early 2011
US Housing Starts Unexpectedly Drop To 5-Month Low
US Factories Cool For First Time In Four Months
Jobs Data Simultaneous Release At Risk As US Review Spurs Restrictions
Odds ‘n Sods:
Reader B.B. spotted this: Hacking Expert David Chalk Joins Urgent Call to Halt Smart Grid: “100% certainty of catastrophic failure of energy grid within three years”
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New Mexico man takes unique approach to protect home from fires. (Thanks to Scott B. for the link.)
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One of those “Small World Department” moments, from videoblogger “SGT” Planecast with a PATRIOT – Part One. He notes: “Recently I had the good fortune of meeting and interviewing a newly awakened patriot on a plane trip out east. The passenger sitting next to me just happened to be reading James Wesley Rawles’ book Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse which directly led to us starting up a conversation about the inevitable calamities we are facing…” (Thanks to Darren H. for the link.)
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I heard from reader D.R. that CampingWorld.com has an internet sale on their 32 oz. bottles of Pri-D (diesel) and Pri-G (gasoline) fuel stabilizers. They are presently $4 off, with a sale price of $35.99. You can also use coupon code 2717 for $5 off any order of $50 or more, to help cover your shipping cost. The sale and coupon code expire April 30th.
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Directive 21 is sponsoring a product giveaway, in cooperation with The Survival Mom. Prizes include a free Big Berkey water filter system and the new book: Survival Mom: How to Prepare Your Family for Everyday Disasters and Worst-Case Scenarios. Also, 10 other winners will each get a copy of the Survival Mom book. The contest ends Friday night. (April 20, 2012.)
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"Vigorous measures at present would soon put an end to this rebellion. The deluded people are made to believe that they are invincible…. When this army is ordered to act against them, they will soon be convinced that they are very insignificant when opposed to regular troops." – Major Thomas Pitcairn, Royal Marines, in a letter from Boston to John Montagu, Lord Sandwich, the Secretary of State, 1775.
Note from JWR:
Today we present two more entries for Round 40 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 40 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
How to Extend the Shelf Life of Food and Save on Groceries, by Vicki W.
In 2010, our family became aware of the need to become more prepared in the event of disaster or financial collapse. Having not lived this lifestyle, learning about what it takes to do this was quite overwhelming. I began to scour the internet for food storage ideas. I even took a small food storage introductory class held by a local Mormon woman who has a passion to teach on this subject. I started learning skills like bread baking, dehydrating, Dutch oven cooking, etc.
I learned that a Foodsaver machine could vacuum mason jar lids and effectively preserve foods. Although pricey, I bought the Foodsaver and the special lid adapters. I frequently pick up used canning jars at garage sales and thrift stores and I have also found that many stores mark down their canning supplies after canning season is over. However, two thoughts about vacuum sealing jars bothered me. Some people thought the Foodsaver was too expensive. They would rather spend their prepping dollars on actual food. The second thought was what if we didn’t have power to operate it? I was hoping for other solutions.
On You Tube, there is a video that describes using the Pump-N-Seal. I had not previously heard of this device. The same day that I found out about it, I walked into a thrift store and found one for $2. One benefit that it offers is that you can also use glass jars such as jelly, spaghetti, pickle, etc. I discovered you could just punch a small hole with a push pin in a mason jar lid or used jar lid, cover with electrical tape, pump, and it would seal. It would also work with the Foodsaver jar adapters to seal mason jars. It works either way and it doesn’t require electricity. However, it’s $40. Could it be done less expensively?
There is a blog called Salad in a Jar. She has a video that describes using the $20 pump that is electric/rechargeable that I recommend watching to see how you use the jar adapters. The price was getting better. I’ve also seen the brake bleeder pump, but you really have a hand workout for it to seal. But after experimentation, I found a $4.25 solution that I am very excited about.
Ziploc has a manual pump that is supposed to seal freezer bags. For $4.25 the kit comes with a pump and three bags. I found the bags to leak and were not effective like the Foodsaver machine and bags are. However, the manual pump works great to seal both mason jars (with either the small or wide mouth adapters) or the pin prick/electrical tape method. Either method will vacuum seal jars. You can reuse pickle, olive, spaghetti jars, etc. or canning jars with the pin hole/electrical tape – and Ziploc pump. Or with the jar adapter, you can seal regular or wide mouth canning jars with Ball or Kerr jar lids without punching a hole.
I have been vacuum sealing and demonstrating and have really given this little pump a real workout, and it keeps on going. I have shown family and friends, Mennonite ladies, and even demonstrated it for the Amish women who worked at an Amish bulk store. Everyone is impressed that has seen and tried it.
What benefit would there be for us preppers? You can start saving your grocery dollars by not throwing stale, expired food away and you would have a convenient way to re-pack food after you open those #10 cans. You can use this the day you bring it home (not wait for some “disaster” to put it to use). If you get a great deal on cake mixes like 10 for $10, you can pack them in mason jars and they will last for several years – well past the “expiration” date.
What about nuts? You get a killer deal on a bulk buy – but they go rancid fairly quickly. Not if they’re vacuumed sealed. What about brown sugar? It will stay moist and flowing if vacuumed sealed in a jar. How about chocolate chips, dried fruit, dehydrated vegetables, tea, coffee, herbs, and spices? Yes, yes, yes! This is not a substitution for heat canning. It is for keeping things fresh such as wheat berries, beans, flour, chocolate chips, etc. in longer term storage, which is several years.
A sample of dry storage goods is: Wheat berries, oatmeal, rice, beans, flour, sugar, salt, coffee, pasta, tea, dried herbs, spices, dehydrated foods, jerky, potato flakes, chocolate chips, candy, etc. You can even leave things in their original package such as granola bars or chocolate chips, put a pin prick in the package, put the desired item in the jar, and vacuum away.
Ace Hardware sells half gallon mason jars. They are very handy to store bulk items such as beans, oatmeal, rice, etc. in.
My next experiment will be with olive oil. I buy it in small containers because I hear it goes bad quickly. I will vacuum seal some oil in a mason jar and check it every six months to see how long it stores. I am thinking that this will increase the shelf life significantly.
Will this work in the fridge and freezer? Absolutely! Let me give an example: strawberries go bad quickly. I’ve had them keep for over a week in a mason jar in the fridge quite nicely. I first wash them in 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water, rinse, drain, dry, and then seal them in a jar. This would work for other berries, too.
I used half an avocado and put the other half sealed in a jar in the fridge and it didn’t turn brown. It kept for several days. (I then ate it, but it could have gone longer). It would keep months in the freezer. It would be great to buy avocados for a dollar or less and freeze them to have on hand for guacamole. Lettuce keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator when sealed in a jar. In other words, it prolongs the quality of food. Some items liked cooked food can be preserved only a few days longer than you normally would. Fruits and veggies keep even longer. Frozen items may keep for several years.
Here is a sample of items to refrigerate in sealed jars: Lettuce, cut onions, green onions, berries, green pepper, celery, avocado, yeast, etc. You can also extend the life of cooked food and deli meat by a few days longer than normal. (Not longer because it does allow dangerous bacteria to grow if kept longer). However, you may freeze these items if you desire extended life for your food storage. This alone will save the average family money because you’ll have more time to eat the items before they go bad.
Here are a few tips and tricks I’ve learned along the way to keep in mind:
Common sense needs to be used when applying this method. For instance, if you’re not willing to check your jars after sealing and then monthly thereafter for any loss of vacuum, I wouldn’t use this for long term storage. Although I have been doing this for over a year, occasionally a lid does come loose.
If you let refrigerated cooked foods go too long before consuming them, you would be setting yourself up for a dangerous situation. I would suggest looking around the internet for other tips and ideas associated with vacuum sealing.
Use only quality (Ball or Kerr brand) canning jar lids – not the cheap ones. It may be necessary to soak them in very hot water for a few minutes to condition them. You can also recondition the lids of used pickle, olive, or spaghetti jars the same way.
If using the pin prick/electrical tape method to store leftovers, make sure that the lid is clean. For instance, if you use half a jar of spaghetti sauce and want to put the rest sealed in the fridge, make sure the underside of the lid is clean and free of sauce. Poke a hole in the lid and cover with a piece of electrical tape. Use the Ziploc pump to seal. To release the seal, simply pull up the electrical tape and the seal will be broken. Press the tape back down firmly and reseal if desired. (Watch the You Tube demo on the Pump-N-Seal unit for this to make sense).
To release the seal on the canning lids, the dull end of a church key opener can be used to gently pry up the lid or simply use your fingers if they are strong enough.. (Do not bend the lid or it can’t be reused). You can use one canning lid over and over again.
If desired, sterilize the glass jars (like you would for canning) or rinse in vinegar or hydrogen peroxide. Otherwise, soak them in hot soapy water and then dry thoroughly. When filling the jar you have chosen to seal, a wider funnel (used in canning) helps to get the food in the jar and also keep the rim of the jar clean. If you don’t have a funnel, (and I recommend one for the regular and wide mouth size), just wipe off the rim of the jar really well after filling the jar up to one inch below the rim.
To re-use pickle or spaghetti jars, vegetable oil comes in very handy to remove the adhesive bits of those pesky labels.
If vacuuming foods that are more powdery such as spices or coffee, simply place a small piece of paper towel, coffee filter, or muffin liner on top of the food you are sealing and leave about an inch between the food and the top of the jar. The powder will not get sucked up and prevent a good seal. You can also keep food like cake mixes in their original bags. Just put a pin prick through the bag, put in jar and then seal.
If storing jars in the freezer, use the freezer safe mason jars which have completely straight sides.
Don’t forget to label and date your jars. You may think that you will remember what and when you stored things, but the reality is that you won’t. I don’t write on the lids directly because I re-use them. I buy white labels that I write on and then adhere to each jar.
Check the seal on the jars for slow leaks after a day or so. If there is a crack, scratch, or nick on rim of jar (or tiny piece of foreign matter), it can prevent the jar from sealing or cause a slow leak. Discard the jars with imperfections or reuse them for something else if they won’t hold a seal. When using your mason jars to vacuum seal, it is a good idea to put canning rings loosely tightened on the jars so that if someone knocks the jar, the lid will not be knocked off. If using this method for long term storage, it would be wise to check your jars on a monthly basis to make sure that the seal is still good. I have had good success with even the electrical tape method holding a seal, but it’s a good idea to do a monthly inspection in case of any seal failure. If you find a jar that isn’t sealed, simply reseal and check it again later.
I have found with the regular size adapter it is helpful to add an extra lid upside down inside the adapter during the process to aid in sealing. For some reason, I have had no trouble with the wide mouth size, just the regular size adapter. But it is no big deal to put an extra lid upside down in the jar adapter to make the lid seal.
This works for me and my family. I hope it can be of help to you as well. Both the Foodsaver machine and the Pump-N-Seal are good ways to go. I have and use both. But I just had to share this non-electric and inexpensive option for those who would benefit from knowing about this handy device.
To recap, your expenses would be $4.25 for the Ziploc vacuum device and about $10 for each Foodsaver jar adapter purchased. Ideally, you would buy both sizes of the adapters, which brings your total to $25. But you could just buy the pump and do the pin hole/electrical tape method. The Ziploc pump is sold at Wal-Mart and many grocery stores. The jar adapters can be purchased in the camping section at Bass Pro, the Foodsaver web site, or Amazon.com. Instead of buying pricey bags over and over, you would have used spaghetti and pickle jars and mason jars which you can use over and over again.
Many “prepping” ideas would come in use only in the event of disaster or the electricity failing. But this little pump can be used the day you bring it home whether there is a disaster or not. This in turn can save you money on your weekly food bill, thus allowing you to stretch your prepping dollars even more. That, in my book, is priceless.
“When I walk into my kitchen today, I am not alone. Whether we know it or not, none of us is. We bring fathers and mothers and kitchen tables, and every meal we have ever eaten. Food is never just food. It’s also a way of getting at something else: who we are, who we have been, and who we want to be.” Molly Wizenberg, from A Home Made Life