Heirloom Vegetable Varieties

With the end of season sales starting for garden seeds, it’s a good time to be buying heirloom or open pollinated seeds. Unfortunately, the big name seed companies aren’t always very good at labeling their product as hybrids or heirlooms. The aim of this article is to try to list the commonly seen varieties of non-hybrid vegetables, so that preppers can pick up seeds for their stockpile during the sale season.

First, some definitions: heirloom seeds are usually those varieties that were in existence prior to 1951, when the first hybrids appeared on the American market for home gardeners. An open pollinated seed is often, but not necessarily, an heirloom. Open pollinated just means that they are not a hybrid, and that the seeds will breed true if saved and planted in the next year. Obviously, in a SHTF situation, open pollinated (or “heirloom”) seeds are your best bet for long term survival. This does not mean that hybrid seeds won’t have a (small) place in your plans. There are a number of vegetables that are difficult to grow and that have long storage lives, where stockpiling some hybrid seeds as insurance wouldn’t be a bad thing, as long as this is alongside open pollinated varieties also.

I’ve only listed vegetables (and one flower) that are considered easy or moderate to grow. Difficult vegetables or less-commonly grown vegetables aren’t listed. Along with the varieties, I’ve also given the usual storage life of the seed in normal storage conditions (cool, dry, out of sunlight, stored in correct containers). Information on the need to protect from cross-pollination as well as the general hardiness range of the vegetables is also given. This should not be considered a good introduction to the art of seed saving, but merely something to help folks get started. The best book I’ve found for saving seeds is Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners by Suzanne Ashworth. It is definitely worth getting a copy for your home library.

The listing isn’t complete by any means, I compiled it by comparing the online catalogs for a couple of big name seed companies and noting the open pollinated or heirloom varieties that weren’t necessarily being marketed as such. There are probably ones I missed that are available in retail stores. As always, if you want the best selection of heirloom seeds, check out the various online retailers of heirloom seeds. Nor should this listing be considered as advice on which seeds to get – you need to consider your growing conditions, your families own desires, and your climate before finalizing selections.

Bear in mind that there are often slight name variations between seed companies. The most common change is word order with something like “Purple Podded Pole” becoming “Pole Purple Podded” or the like. Sometimes the spelling is off a bit such as “Dicicco” or “DeCicco”. These are usually fairly easy to determine that the varieties are the same. More difficult are ones that add or subtract a word or add a number at the end. Those you would need to use your best judgment on, but my advice would be to not depend on anything you had to take a flyer like that on. They might be good to purchase and test out, but depending on it being open pollinated might not be a good idea.

Beans: Easy difficulty. Annuals that store seed for 3 years, 4 years with 50% viability. They are best grown in zones 3-10, and rarely cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Bountiful, Cherokee Trail of Tears, Kentucky Wonder, Ideal Market, Lima Fordhook 242, Rattlesnake Snap, Roma II, Dragon’s Tongue, Contender, Gold of Bacau, Painted Pony, Purple Podded Pole, Red Swan, Romano Pole.

Beets: Moderate difficulty. Biennials that store seed for 4 years, 6 years with 50% viability. They are best grown in zones 2-10. They cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Chioggia, Burpee’s Golden, Detroit Dark Red, Bull’s Blood, Albino, Cylindra, Early Wonder, Ruby Queen.

Broccoli: Moderate difficulty. Biennials that store seed for 5 years. They are best grown in zones 3-10, and will cross-pollinate, not only with other broccolis, but with other vegetables such as cabbage.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Dicicco, Romanesco, Green Sprouting Calabrese, Purple Sprouting.

Brussels Sprouts: Moderate difficulty. Biennial that stores seed for 3 years. Will cross-pollinate with itself and other members of its family.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Long Island and Catskill.

Cabbage: Fairly easy difficulty. Biennial that store seed for 5 years. They are best grown in zones 1-9 and they will cross-pollinate with other vegetables such as broccoli.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Early Jersey Wakefield, Late Flat Dutch, Brunswick, Mammoth Red Rock, Charleston Wakefield, Copenhagen Early Market, Golden Acre, and Red Acre.

Cantaloupe: Moderate difficulty. Annual that store seed for 5 years. They are best grown in zones 4-11 and they will cross-pollinate with themselves and with other melons.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Hale’s Best and Hearts of Gold.

Carrots: Moderate difficulty. Biennial that store seed for 3 years. They are best grown in zones 4-10 and they cross-pollinate, even with Queen Anne’s Lace.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Nantes (with many variations on the name), Touchon, and Danvers (also commonly found with many variations in the name).

Corn: Annuals. Sweet corn seed stores for 1-3 years, field corn seed stores for 3-5 years. They are wind pollinated so will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Golden Bantam (sometimes you see Golden Bantam Improved) and Country Gentlemen. Both of these are sweet corn varieties. Field corn is rarely encountered in garden centers, but you can occasionally find popcorn.

Cucumbers: Easy difficulty. Annual that store seed for 5 years. They are best grown in zones 4-11 and they will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: White Wonder, Straight Eight, Crystal Apple, Lemon, Marketmore 76, Parisian, and Boston Pickling.

Eggplant: Moderate difficulty. Perennials grown as annuals. Seed will store for 4 years, but the seeds have a poor germination rate, usually about 60%. Self-pollinating and for safety needs a small distance of separation. Usually grown in zones 4-10.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Black Beauty, Long Purple, Rosa Bianca, Turkish Orange, and Louisiana Long Green.

Kale: Easy difficulty. Seeds store for 4-6 years. Kale will cross with itself and with some other members of its family.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Red Russian, Lacinato, Dwarf Blue Curled, and Dwarf Blue Scotch.

Leeks: Easy difficulty. Biennial that stores seed for 2 years. Will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: American Flag and Blue Solaise.

Lettuce: Easy difficulty. Annual with stores seed for 6 years. They are best grown in zones 4-9 and they will cross-pollinate, but 20’ of distance is usually safe enough to prevent crossbreeding.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Black Seeded Simpson, Tom Thumb, Cimmaron, Lolla Rossa, Parris Island Cos (sometimes Parris Island Romaine or spelled Paris), Rouge d’Hiver, Deer Tongue, and Forellenschluss.

Mustard greens: Easy difficulty. Seeds store for 4 years. These come in annuals, biennials, and perennials and will cross-pollinate with itself and other members of its family.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Tendergreen, Southern Giant Curled, Florida Broadleaf, and Giant Red.

Onion: Moderate difficulty. Biennial that store seed for 1 to 2 years. They will cross-pollinate and are best grown in zones 3-9.
Commonly found heirloom varieties are: Walla Walla and Sweet Spanish Utah for globe onions and White Lisbon Bunching for green onions. Onions are vegetables that are difficult to find heirloom varieties outside of the various specialty stores.

Parsnips: Easy difficulty. Biennial that store seed for 1 year. Will cross-pollinate.
There aren’t many varieties of parsnips floating around, but handily the Hollow Crown variety is an heirloom.

Peas: Easy difficulty. Annual that store seed for 3 years. Best grown in zones 3-11. They will cross-pollinate but 50’ distance is enough to prevent crossbreeding.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Green Arrow, Lincoln, Mammoth Melting Sugar (snow pea), Oregon Sugar Pod (snow pea), Oregon Sugar Pod II (snow pea), Wando, Thomas Laxton, Alaska, and Little Marvel.

Peppers: Moderate difficulty. Seeds will store for 2 years. Will cross-pollinate and grows in zones 1-11, although some places will need to start seed indoors.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include (hot varieties marked): Hungarian Hot Wax (hot), Long Red Slim Cayenne (hot), Jalapeno M (hot), Serrano (hot), Santa Fe Grande (hot), Serrano Tanpiqueno (hot), Tabasco (hot), Thai Hot (hot), Pepperoncini, Sweet Banana, Sweet California Wonder (aka California Wonder or CalWonder), Chinese Giant, Bull Nosed Bell, Emerald Giant, Marconi Golden, Golden California Wonder (aka Golden CalWonder), Jimmy Nardello, Sheepnose Pimento.

Pumpkins: Easy difficulty. Annual that store seed for 4 years. Will cross-pollinate and grows in zones 3-9.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Connecticut Field, Small Sugar, Rouge Vif d’Etampes, Big Max, Atlantic Giant, Long Island Cheese, Spookie, Casper.

Radish: Easy difficulty. Annual or biennial that stores seed for 5 years. Will cross-pollinate and grows best in zones 2-10.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Early Scarlet Globe, Black Spanish Round, Scarlet Turnip White Tip, Cherry Belle, China Rose, Crimson Giant, Daikon, French Breakfast, German Giant, Philadelphia White Box, Pink Beauty, Watermelon, White Icicle, White Hailstone Globe, Champion, Easter Egg.

Rutabaga: Easy difficulty. Biennial that stores seed for 2-5 years. Will cross-pollinate with itself and other members of its family.
The only commonly found heirloom variety I found was Purple Top.

Squash: Easy difficulty. Annual that stores for 4 years. Will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Boston Marrow, Delecata, Early Golden Crookneck Squash, Fordhook Acorn, Marina di Chioggia, Red Kurl, Ronde de Nice, Waltham Butternut, Acorn Table Queen, Buttercup, Lakota.

Sunflowers: Easy difficulty. Seeds store 2-3 years for this annual. Will cross-pollinate. Note that most sunflowers from the major seed companies appear to be hybrids; I was only able to find the heirloom variety Lemon Queen offered.

Swiss Chard: Easy difficulty. Biennial that stores for 5 years. Will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include Fordhook Giant, Bright Lights, Five Color Silverbeet, and Lucullus.

Tomatoes: Easy difficulty. Perennial grown as an annual that stores seed for 4 years. Does not normally cross-pollinate, but some of the potato leaf varieties may. Grows in zones 2-10.
There are a gazillion varieties of tomatoes available, and many of them are heirlooms. Among them are the many varieties of Brandywine, some of which come in potato leaf varieties, some of which aren’t. There are about as many varieties of Brandywine tomato out there as there are of some whole vegetable families!
Other commonly found heirloom varieties include: Bloody Butcher, Mortgage Lifter, Tigerella/Mr. Stripey, Amana Orange, Amish Paste, Arkansas Traveler, Beefsteak, Big Rainbow, Black Krim, Burpee Long Keeper, Chadwick Cherry, Cherokee Purple, Druzba, Delicious, Gardener’s Delight, Giant Pink Belgian, Green Zebra, Mariglobe, Principe Borghese, Red Zebra, Riesentraube, Rutgers, San Marzano, Stupice, Super Italian Paste, Yellow Pear, Big Red, Jubilee.

Turnips: Easy difficulty. Biennial that stores seed for 4 years. Grows in zones 3-9 and will cross-pollinate.
The only commonly found heirloom variety is Purple Top White Globe, but there aren’t that many different turnip varieties in general.

Watermelons: Easy difficulty. Annual that stores seed for 4 years. Grows in zones 3-11 and will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include: Moon and Stars, Allsweet, Bush Sugar Baby, Congo, Crimson Sweet, Georgia Rattlesnake, Orange Tendersweet.

Zucchini: Easy difficulty. Annual that stores seed for 4 years. Will cross-pollinate.
Commonly found heirloom varieties include Black Beauty and Cocozelle.

For ease of reference, I’ve listed the storage lives of the seeds for the above-listed vegetables in order below, in order from longest life to shortest life. Note that these storage estimates are for the “normal” storage conditions. They can be stored for longer periods with some preparation and care. This list will help decide if buying a big stash of seeds is really effective.
6 years: Lettuce
5 years: Broccoli, Cabbage, Cantaloupe, Cucumbers, Radish, Squash, Swiss Chard
4 years: Beets, Eggplant, Kale, Mustard greens, Pumpkin, Tomatoes, Turnips, Watermelons, Zucchini
3 years: Beans, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Corn (Field), Peas
2 years: Leeks, Peppers, Rutabagas, Sunflowers
1 year: Corn (Sweet), Onions, Parsnips



Letter Re: Beginning and Maintaining Family Survival Stores

Mr. Rawles,
In our family I’m responsible for the obtaining and tracking of the beans, seeds, band aid , and child-schooling portion of our preparation. My husband is responsible for obtaining the bullets, fuel, agriculture and security supplies and all other aspects of our preparedness and training everyone how to use them, however I’m responsible for inventorying and usage tracking all of these supplies also. As a former analytical CPA and auditor-before I became a wife and mother, I fully believe that accurate regular inventory of your supplies is the life and death of your survival, just as it is for businesses. If you don’t know what you have on hand and what you still need to obtain or replenish then I don’t understand how you can be adequately prepared. Over the years I saw many business fail-not because of lack knowledge but because of lack of supplies to put that knowledge to work.
 
In the process of our preparedness journey, I stumbled upon a free web site that is run by two mothers, http://foodstoragemadeeasy.net/. They adhere to the Mormon plan of having a full years’ worth of food stored.  They provide you with a complete checklist called “Baby Steps Checklist” that walks you through complete food storage purchases for your family spread out over a full year. If you follow their steps the preparedness is broken down to a financially manageable task, which I know for many families is the largest stumbling block.
 
The web site includes, which I feel is the most important part, a spreadsheet calculator that allows  you to calculate how much food/supplies you need based on the number of family members, age of your children, and how much you want stored, i.e. 3, 6, 12 months or more. I tracked all our other household supplies usage (cleaning supplies, hygiene products, etc) for a year and added a padding of 6 months usage. I then used this spreadsheet to create another for all other household “stuff” you need to live. My husband took the spreadsheet and also modified it to show all the “stuff” that falls under his department of bullets, fuel, replacement parts, agriculture supplies, etc we need to  have stored for a societal breakdown.
 
The spreadsheet is so simple to use that even our 8 and 10 year olds can follow it as they take our monthly food inventory. It takes them about 2-3 hours. The 10 year old is even able to take the corrected hard copy and sit at the computer and change quantities on hand in the spreadsheet and then printout a new three new hard copies for me, it is that user friendly. (Note: I do a complete inventory myself once a quarter to ensure the children are staying on top of their chore and that all quantities are correct.)
 
We keep multiple copies of each inventory on simple clipboards, which I highly recommend. One at the storage location of each category to note any withdrawals from our stores, one in our property’s “mechanical shop” and in our Master Supply Binder that stays in the home office. I also keep a copy of the food spreadsheet in a kitchen drawer for easy access. The spreadsheets allow us to have on one simple clipboard and instant access to what I have on hand-what we need to pick-up on our next runs to the hardware, survival, Costco or Sam’s Club, the regular grocery store- all of which are an hour away on a beautiful sunny summer day, longer on icy, snow packed, mountain, roads, and also what I need to can/freeze/preserve this current growing season.
 
With these spreadsheets I am able to do a full inventory of everything we have quarterly in approximately 12-15 hours of time every quarter. My husband and I can then sit down and in one evening easily go over our usage to make sure we are not being wasteful and plan any large resupply purchases that need to be made.
 
Thank you, – A Conservative, Prepared Catholic in the Rocky Mountains



Letter Re: Trijicon — What’s the Right Color for a Color-Blind User?

Good Morning Mr. Rawles,
I too suffer from color deficiency and have had first hand experience with Trijicon, ACOG and other illuminated optics.  For me the red and green reticles “disappear” on any background other than white. 
With the assistance of many a friend and family member we have done extensive testing to be able to determine what works for me. The answer to my color woes is amber reticles. No mater the background the amber stands out brilliantly.  I’ve had the opportunity to view the amber reticles against woodland, desert, tiger stripe, Multicam, ACU and a dozen other types of camouflage and have yet to find a color or pattern (including natural backdrops) that caused the amber disappear.  I’m blessed in the fact I didn’t have to waste hard earned money trying to find what works for me and haven’t had to play the “return and restock” game with any distributors.  

I’ve also recently found a manufacturer that builds optics specifically for color blind shooters. The company is called Browe, Inc. I’m currently saving up to purchase one of the BCO optics from them with their blue reticle technology as blue seems to be the kindest color to those of us with color deficiencies. I will say this in closing as well, I do not rely solely on illuminated reticles, I have plenty of “standard” scopes with crosshairs, mil-dots and BDC reticles to be swapped out “when the batteries won’t charge any longer” and all of my weapons have iron sites if the scopes get damaged.
Thank you for a great blog site! – Terry in Denver



Economics and Investing:

Derivatives, again: Clawback controversy at JPMorgan

J.B.G. sent this: Food inflation fears as US crop prices surge: Worries about world food prices are increasing, stoked by a 10 percent rise in US corn and wheat prices in just a week. Get your storage wheat and corn meal before these price increases work their way down to the retail level!

United States of Investment Properties – The role of property investors in the current housing market. JWR’s Comment: There is a word for someone who foolishly invests in a declining market: contrapreneur.

Jim Rogers Prediction: America Will Certainly Go Through A Period Of Default
 
Bankers’ Fraud Now ‘Too Big To Fail’
 
Top 10 Warning Signs of A Global End Game

 
The Financial Crisis In Europe Has Only Been Put On Hold Temporarily

Wall Street Shakes Off Factory Data; S&P, NASDAQ Rise



Odds ‘n Sods:

Greg C. sent this: Newt Gingrich on D.C. Weather: ‘Mild Taste of What an EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse) Attack Would Do‘. Meanwhile, we read: 10 sobering realizations the Eastern U.S. power grid failure is teaching us about a real collapse. And on a similar note, there is this from Roger K. in Forbes: Power Outage Highlights Infrastructure Vulnerability. (Thanks to Jeff in Texas for the latter link.)

   o o o

I recently watched Ridley Scott’s movie about the Crusades, titled Kingdom of Heaven. I’m a fan of most of Scott’s films, but I quickly concluded that William Monahan (the film’s script writer) was suffering from a bad case of historical illiteracy, or at least selective forgetfulness. Oh, and speaking of historical illiteracy, yesterday morning I was doing some Internet real estate hunting on behalf of a consulting client, and I nearly sprayed my computer screen with a mouthful of raw milk and Raisin Bran. There, before my eyes, in Utah, was the web page for the Majestic Mountain Meadows housing development. That elicited my initial cereal snort and then had me laughing uproariously. (If you are scratching your head, see: M.M.M.) Oh well, at least ignorance of history is better than someone re-writing history to be politically correct or publishing documents like the Mayflower Compact that have been cleverly Dowdified to remove Christian references.

   o o o

Reader David T. sent: Who Needs a WeedWacker When You Can Use a Scythe?

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Former U.S. soldier aids Syria’s wounded

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Amidst widespread power blackouts: “Hot and hotter” forecast as heat wave bakes eastern U.S.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Never forget, even for an instant, that the one and only reason anybody has for taking your gun away is to make you weaker than he is, so he can do something to you that you wouldn’t let him do if you were equipped to prevent it. This goes for burglars, muggers, and rapists, and even more so for policemen, bureaucrats, and politicians.” – Aaron Zelman and L. Neil Smith, Hope (2001)



Notes from JWR:

The recent rare derecho storm system with extreme winds and in the eastern U.S. and concurrent heat wave throughout much of the nation are making headlines. Please pray for those who have suffered loss from the storms.

I’m pleased to announce that I’ve just signed a contract with E.P. Dutton (the parent company of Penguin Books, that publishes my nonfiction titles), to publish my next two novels. The novels are under the working titles Expatriates and Liberators. They should be out in 2013 and 2014, respectively. All that I can say at this stage of the writing is that Expatriates will be set primarily in central Florida, the Philippines, and northern Australia.

OBTW, if all goes well, Penguin Books should be releasing Rawles on Tools For Survival (a nonfiction book) sometime in 2014.



L.K.O.’s Product Review: Rainy Day Root Cellars

Rainy Day Root Cellars in Castle Rock, Colorado offers a variety of sizes of root and combination storage cellars using pre-cast concrete components. I had the chance to inspect one of their installed cellars, and I was quite impressed. Their rugged designs are optimized for safe food and water storage, self-sufficiency, security and other ‘backyard’ or remote site access. In addition to food and water storage, these shelters provide excellent climate-controlled safe-keeping for important papers and sensitive files, firearms, ammunition, batteries, emergency medical supplies, and much more. Standard sizes range from 8? x 8? Single Room to 8? x 24? Three Room.

Uses and Advantages

The backfill depth of a typical cellar installation minimizes threat from fire, tornados or other strong storms. This depth also provides smaller annual temperature swings than those typical of basements, garages or attics. A typical year-round temperature range for the prescribed installation of a Rainy Day Root Cellar is 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. (Depending on your latitude.) Grains, canned goods, water, medicines, gunpowder and ammunition all store well in a 33 to 70 degree range environment. In addition to an ideal temperature, these root cellars provide optimum sealed, dry and dark conditions without dependence on power. A year’s food storage for a family of four may cost around $15,000, which warrants an appropriate investment in a suitable enclosure to prevent or minimize shortened shelf-life, pillage from vermin or other intrusions.

Design

The Rainy Day web site touts their enclosures as a “safety deposit box” in your backyard. Their heavy duty steel exterior cellar doors provide the first line of defense. At the bottom of the thick tread wooden staircase, the cast-in-place steel opening frames a second lockable steel door for excellent security. Ceiling, floor and walls are all reinforced concrete with all seams waterproof sealed inside and out. Pipe penetrations (typically two 4″ vents) are also sealed inside and out. These can be fitted with forced-air HEPA air filters, to make you cellar double as a fallout shelter. Each room has an adjustable air intake vent, allowing independent temperature control. For models with two or more rooms, a room can be kept warmer or cooler than the others by adjusting the air intake vents. American made, cast aluminum, self-cleaning Lawler Manufacturing blast gates regulate temperature and air exchange. Turn the non-glued, screened intake ninety-degree fitting in the direction of the prevailing wind to adjust air intake. During extreme below zero conditions, a supplied cap over the air intake (in lieu of the ninety) keeps the temperature at desired minimums.

Installation

Rainy Day pre-engineers and designs all root cellars to customer specifications, including individual excavation plans tailored to each location. If desired, they will find a local excavation contractor to further reduce the involvement required from the buyer. In either case, they supply a custom excavation plan to provide a secure, level foundation. They work with a nationwide firm that has numerous concrete pre-cast concrete facilities around the country, which optimizes delivery of primary components and scheduling of on-site work. Delivery is often less than four weeks after receipt of deposit. They also provide other pour-in-place options (less preferable) if the site (e.g. too tight for crane access) or other considerations warrant an alternative to pre-cast components. After assembly, sealing, lock installation and testing, the Rainy Day staff can then install any optional items such as shelving or water tanks. Soil backfilling can be performed by the Rainy Day staff, a local contractor, or the owner. Grass seed and bushes are suggested to hide the protruding stand pipes, the tops of which should be unobstructed and above the anticipated high snow levels of the local elevation. Completion time from crew arrival on the excavated site to key hand-off is a maximum of two days.

Options

Standard lengths for single room 8′ wide root cellars include 8′, 10′, 12′ 14′ and 16′. Standard lengths for double room 8′ wide root cellars include 20′, 22′ and 24′. There is a 24′ long 3-room standard option, with other custom configurations available. For hillside installations, wing walls (for sloped ground retention) can replace the stairwell. Interior options include custom wooden shelves, pre-made steel shelves, specialized food storage units (such as ShelfReliance shelving), or owner provided storage units. Rainy Day Root Cellars recommends either 225 gallon or 525 gallon 2-valve top-filled water tank options. The valve two feet above the floor is optimal for bucket filling, while the bottom valve is for periodic draining. Battery-powered lights or solar lights are lighting options they can provide. Rainy Day staff recommends acquiring two or more D-cell powered LED lanterns which can be suspended on their supplied ceiling hooks.

Rainy Day Root Cellars’ web site provides more details and photos. They can be reached at: 303-660-6461.

– L.K.O. (SurvivalBlog’s Central Rockies Regional Editor)



Pat’s Product Review: Ruger P95 9mm Pistol

I still recall when I saw the first Ruger P85, 9mm pistol. I was living in Colorado Springs, Colorado at the time. Only one gun shop in town had a P85 sample, and people were literally lining-up all week long to see this new pistol. There were several reasons for this, first of all, this was the first center fire semiauto handgun from Ruger. Secondly, the design of the P85 and appearance was rather radical at the time. And, I believe lastly, was the retail price of the P85 – which was $295.00 – well below what other similar 9mm pistols were selling for. Of course, for the first few months, you couldn’t purchase a P85 for the retail price – whoever had them in-stock, were selling them above the retail price, and people were paying the price, too.
 
The P85 didn’t actually appear on the handgun market until 1987 because of design and manufacturing problems. And, there were very low production numbers to start with. (Ruger was just getting their new factory in Arizona up and running, and the P85 was hard to come by.) I owned two of the first P85s to come on the market. One was flawless, the second sample had a strange problem, where the slide would lock open for no particular reason, while firing the gun. I never was able to figure out what the problem was – the slide would lock open during recoil, and it wasn’t retracting to the fullest rear position – the slide would lock open about halfway through the recoil process. I traded that gun off after a couple weeks. The other P85 sample worked perfectly, but the accuracy was lacking. Ruger resolved the accuracy problem in short order. However, there were some reports of the P85 causing accidental discharges when the slide mounted decocker was applied – the firing pin would hit a loaded round in the chamber and the gun would fire.  These things happen, even with the best gun designs – there are teething problems. However, Ruger was quick to recall guns and make the needed improvements on the P85. I had enough confidence in the then new P85, that I carried one on-duty when I was the chief of police, in a small town. The sheriff in the county where I worked – he also carried a P85.
 
Through the years, Ruger updated the P85, with improved models, like the P89, which was cosmetically the same gun, but there were big improvements in the barrel making process and the safety aspects of the gun. There were a number of other improvements over the years, and each time, the P-series of guns got better and better. And, if you’ve followed my articles for any length of time, you know I consider Ruger firearms, to be real “meat and potato” firearms – they are rugged firearms, and priced for the average person. That’s not to say that Ruger doesn’t make some spendy firearms – they do! However, most of the guns in the Ruger line-up are meat and potato guns in my humble opinion. And, if you’re like me, you want the most value for your money as you can possibly get – and Ruger provides this.
 
I had quite a few SurvivalBlog readers e-mail, and ask me why I haven’t featured a Ruger P95 in my articles. Some asked me what I had against Ruger firearms? Well, I answered each and every e-mail I received. First of all, I didn’t have a Ruger P95 in my meager gun collection. Secondly, I have nothing against Ruger firearms. They are always a best-buy in my book, and some of the strongest firearms on the market. If anything, Ruger over-engineers their guns – they are made strong. [JWR Adds: While I formerly shied away from Rugers for political reasons, I now fully endorse the company. To explain, the Late William B. Ruger, Sr. had cozied up to anti-gun politicians, in the hopes that they would slow their legislative onslaught. Among other things, Ruger actually endorsed a ban on magazines over 10 round capacity for citizens. I found that reprehensible. A few years after the passing of Bill Ruger in 2002, the company resumed selling 20 and 30 round magazines to mere mortals. I’m glad that they saw the light.]
 
I e-mailed Ruger and requested a P95 sample for this article. And, my timing couldn’t have been worse – I made my request when we were in a real buying frenzy, especially with Ruger firearms – they were backordered several months on firearms – they weren’t even taking any orders from distributors – they were making firearms as fast as they could, and still couldn’t keep up with supply and demand. Happily, Ruger is back on-track, but some Ruger firearms are still a little bit hard to find. Beth McAllister, who is my super-contact at Ruger, got me a P95 sample inside of a couple 2-3 weeks – thanks, Beth!
 
This isn’t my first P95 sample – I owned a used P95 some years ago, and there have been some subtle changes in the design. And, the current P95 is the best in the P-series if you ask me. What we have is a polymer frame, with a light texturing on it, for a sure purchase on the gun. We also have an ambi mag release, and the mag release isn’t pushed “in” – instead, it is pushed forward. The slide is made out of stainless steel, with a decocker, and manual safety in one. On top of the slide, we have nice, 3-dot combat sights, that are adjustable for windage with the rear sight. The stainless steel barrel is 3.90″ long – so the P95 is a bit compact in my humble opinion. Honestly, I’ve owned quite a few Ruger P-series guns over the years, and I’ve NEVER once had to make any adjustments to the rear sights – they were always dead-on. There is also a massive external extractor on the P95. A rounded combat-style hammer is also a nice feature.
 
The P95 comes in, of course, 9mm – and I still live in a fairly “free state” and can have full-capacity mags – the P95 holds 15 rounds in the mag, and one in the chamber, for 16 rounds on-tap. And Ruger also provides a second mag with their guns. I wish more gun companies would do this – some, like Kimber, only provide 1 mag with their 1911 handguns – why? The P95 only weighs-in at 27-oz, quite a bit lighter than the original P85 that weighed 33-oz empty, with it’s aluminum frame. One thing I really like on the P95 is the trigger pull – in double-action, as well as single action. With the hammer forward, the first shot will be double-action, and the trigger pull is super smooth, at about 10-11 pounds. The single-action trigger pull is about 4-5 lbs and just as smooth…the pull is long, but smooth – what’s not to like here? There is also a Picatinny rail on the frame, if you want to mount a light or a laser on your P95. The trigger guard is rounded, too – not like the squared trigger guard on the original P85 was – I like it!
 
Take-down on the P95 is a bit different than some similar guns, however, it’s quick and easy, and described in the instruction manual – read it before your attempt to take your P95 apart for cleaning.
 
I was anxious to get this new P95 out to the range for some fun shooting. I found half a box of Blazer FMJ 115 grain ammo in my ammo box in my car, and headed right to the range, instead of heading home for more ammo – yeah, I was “that” anxious to shoot this hummer. I loaded-up the mag with 15 rounds of this Blazer 9mm ammo – and I had numerous problems – empty brass wouldn’t cleanly eject, and some wouldn’t even feed from the mag. Could I have gotten a lemon from Ruger? Not a chance! I’ve had a lot of problems with this Blazer brass-cased 9mm in the past. It’s not very powerful, and doesn’t always have enough power to fully operate the slide in recoil. So, rounds don’t eject cleanly, and rounds don’t get picked-up from the mag during recoil. I knew it wasn’t the P95 having problems – it was an ammo problem.
 
I headed home, and got some Black Hills Ammunition (www.black-hills.com) 115 grain +P Barnes TAC-XP hollow point ammo, and some of the Buffalo Bore (www.buffalobore.com)  95 grain Barnes TAC-XP +P+ hollow point ammo to test. There were zero malfunctions with either of these ammo brands – which proved, to my mind, that it was the Blazer ammo, and not the P95 – just as I surmised. I fired more than a hundred rounds of the +P+ Buffalo Bore Barnes ammo through the Ruger P95 – the gun ran extremely smooth with this round. And, seeing as how this is only a 95 grain bullet, and even though it is +P+ rated, there wasn’t any noticeable difference in recoil from standard velocity loads. This would prove to be an excellent load for stoking in your house gun – where you might worry about over-penetration of a 9mm through walls. The load is easy to handle…and Buffalo Bore uses a flash retardant power, so your night vision won’t get ruined if you fire the gun in low-light conditions. I was getting 4-5 inch groups, at 25-yards with the Buffalo Bore load – more than “combat” acceptable. I fired over a rolled-up sleeping bag, over the hood of my car.
 
The Black Hills 115 grain TAC-XP +P Barnes hollow point proved to be the accuracy winner in the P95 – I was getting 3 to 3 1/2-inch groups if I did my part. And, the Black Hills 115 grain +P Barnes load was also a pussycat in the P95 – anyone can handle this load – anyone! I didn’t do any penetration tests with either the Buffalo Bore or Black Hills loads, but I know that the 95 grain Barnes load won’t penetrate as deeply as the 115 grain bullet will – that’s just common sense. However, both rounds will penetrate deep enough to get the job done in a self-defense situation. And, remember – please remember – there is no such thing as a magic bullet – shot placement is still what matters.
 
Just before doing this article, Buffalo Bore sent me some of their new 9mm 115 grain Barnes TAC-XP +P+ ammo – and I only had a limited supply, so I didn’t get to do a lot of testing with this round. The recoil was on-par with the 95 grain +P+ load and the Black Hills load – I could hardly tell the difference between the bullet weights. Then again, I don’t find the 9mm punishing in any way. It is a caliber that you can shoot all day long. I also fired 100 rounds of Black Hills 115 grain FMJ reloads through the P95, and every round functioned perfectly – unlike the Blazer new ammo, that caused a lot of problems. I would have zero problems carrying Black Hills reloaded ammo in any of my carry guns – I’m that “sure” of their reloads!
 
Picking a brand of ammo is important to a lot of people. And, let’s be honest here, some guns shoot certain brands or styles of ammo better than other guns do. I have never fired any Buffalo Bore or Black Hills ammo that was more than accurate for the task at hand. The Buffalo Bore 95 grain Barnes TAC-XP +P+ shot groups a little bigger than the Black Hills 115 grain Barnes TAC-XP +P rounds did. For this particular Ruger P95, I’d pick the Black Hills 115 grain +P load for my daily carry use because it was a bit more accurate. For a bedside load, I’d take the Barnes 95 grain +P+ load if I were worried about over-penetration. For my money, you can’t go wrong with any of the Black Hills or Buffalo Bore loads in the P95.
 
In more than 500 rounds of testing the P95, the only problems I encountered were with the Blazer 115 grain loads – then again, most 9mm guns I’ve fired this under-powered ammo in, I’ve had problems! The only “good” thing I can say about this Blazer ammo is, it’s cheap, and it’s good if you want to practice malfunction drills. The P95 just perked along without any problems with the Black Hills and Buffalo Bore ammo – as expected!
 
In summary, I like the way the P95 fills my hand, the grip angle feels good – real good! The gun balances nicely, and the texturing on the polymer grip helps secure the gun in your hand when firing. The trigger pull is outstanding, in double-action, as well as single-action. Years ago, you’d pay a gunsmith at least $150 to give you a trigger pull like this, but the Ruger P95 is a production gun – seriously!
 
And, like all Ruger firearms, you get value for your hard-earned dollars. The P95 has a full retail price of $429 – but you can usually find Ruger handguns deeply discounted. My local gun shop usually sells the P95 for around $359. As a matter of fact, they had a used P95 decocker model, now discontinued by Ruger for $299 a week ago – I bought (traded into) it – it was like-new! I sure didn’t “need” this P95 decocker model, not since I had the brand-new current P95, but I couldn’t pass it up.’
 
Ruger firearms are still “meat and potato” firearms if you ask me – at least many of their guns are. I believe you get added value for your hard-earned money when you buy a Ruger, than you do with many other brands of firearms. Are Ruger handguns “pretty?” Well, it’s all in the eye of the beholder – I thought the old P85 was “sexy” to my mind…and the current P95 is very stylish if you ask me. It has a polymer frame like many of today’s handguns do, and a stainless steel slide…and you get a second mag, combat sights, super-smooth trigger pulls, and total reliability – with good ammo. What’s not to like here? If you’re in the market for a new 9mm pistol, give the Ruger P95 a close look – you’re gonna like the value there, as well as the gun. It’s a gun you can bet your life on!



Michael Z. Williamson’s Book Review: Hank Reinhardt’s Book of Knives

I was privileged to meet Hank several times, and participate in one of his lectures on knife fighting.  At the time, the man was 30 years my senior and I would not have wanted to rumble with him.

His Book of Knives was written largely in the 1970s, compiled and published after his death, with assistance from his widow and friends.  It follows his Book of Swords.

The first half, in Hank’s voice, is entertaining, anecdotal and informative.  It covers various lessons learned from fights he observed or was involved in, in some seedier areas of the country.  In very honest language, Hank informs us 1:  Not to get into a knife fight.  2:  If you must, bring a gun by choice.  3:  If you must use a knife, be fast, brutal and effective.  There are no Queensberry rules in a knife brawl.  The winner is likely to go to the ER.  The loser will likely be going to the morgue.  The stories are accompanied by clear drawings of how to engage each tactic.

With advances in knife design, some of the recommendations on knife choice are a bit dated, but all the advice on how to fight remains vital and current.  All revolve around engaging fast, disabling the opponent, with attention to his knife hand and vital areas, rendering him incapable of pursuit, and evacuating the area.  This is not a book for the squeamish.

There is an interlude with comments from Hank’s friends and students, including Massad Ayoob and Michael Janich.

The second half, compiled from his notes by Greg Phillips, one of Hank’s students, continues on with information on more modern knives, and some very excellent exercises on how to practice deploying a knife, accurately striking a still or moving target, and cutting effectively, with inexpensive practice targets of rope, water bottles and cardboard tubes.  Practicing these drills will most certainly improve one’s handling of a knife as either tool or weapon.  There are instructions on how to make foam and plastic practice knives for sparring.

I have two criticisms with this section.  First, Phillips has strong opinions on knife choice, voiced almost as universal facts.  However, knives are a personal item, and choices and effectiveness will vary from person to person, just as with guns. 

Second, he advocates carrying a knife specifically for fighting, never to be used as your working knife.  The problems I have with this are that one is far more likely to need a tool than a weapon; that one should be avoiding a fight; that if a fight is inevitable, one should be using a gun if at all possible; and if one is in a jurisdiction where guns are restricted, the authorities are unlikely to look more favorably on a knife.  A knife with tape residue, gum and grease on it, as a tool pressed into emergency use, is far more defensible to the authorities [or a jury] than a custom knife carried specifically for fighting.  I also disagree that a dagger is a good choice, since its non-weapon utility is low and it’s very clearly intended as a weapon, once you wind up in court.  The same cuts and thrusts can be accomplished with a variety of more useful knives.

However, opinions do vary, and this book is an excellent introduction to developing skills with hand held blades.  The fighting and practice techniques are simple, straightforward, and recommended for improving one’s tactical knife use.

Hank’s preferred book dealer was The Missing Volume.  Glennis LeBlanc offers excellent service.  The book can be ordered through her site.

Hank’s Book of Swords (referenced above) covers design, development, crafting and use of swords, while debunking a great many myths about them.  I recommend it for those interested in longer blades. 

Note; I received a free review copy of the book from the publisher. – (SurvivalBlog Editor at Large)



S.A.’s Book Review: Laura Ingalls, Revisited

Have you ever wondered how you will react if your children are starving and light-headed from malnutrition and you have no food left?

Have you questioned your resilience to life’s opportunities if you are continually beat down by nature and circumstances?

Want to know how to make a smokehouse out of a hollow tree? How to provide heat when there is no wood left to burn?  Crop failure?  Wild bees?

When I was a child, Laura Ingalls Wilder had already published her saga which included practical homesteading information wrapped inside a series of books. Her books for children were the story of her growing-up years in America 145 years ago.  She began this autobiography when she was over 60 years old. She realized a pioneer and frontier way of life had ended, and she could tell the story.  Laura’s life spanned the era from post-Civil War to the modern age. She serialized her story in the third person, told through the eyes of a little girl named Laura. As a child, it took me several books before I understood that the author was the Laura of the books. (My parents also had to tell me that Alice fell asleep and was only dreaming when she saw a rabbit run past her tree proclaiming that he was late, late for a very important date and then pop into the rabbit hole. I got smarter and more practical as the years passed.) Laura was a tiny bit naughty  —  occasionally slapping mean children on the face — and had, in her own mind, ugly brown hair instead of her sister’s lovely blond curls. My father would go to out-of-town conventions from time to time and my present, upon his return, was a new “Laura” book.

If you only know Laura through the television series, “Little House on the Prairie,” then you don’t know Laura. That family program only faintly resembles the Laura books by the use of the title of her second book, Little House on the Prairie . Eventually, people called the book series the “Little House on the Prairie” books.  Characters were even invented for the television series. While television is entertaining, the book series and the television series are two different creatures.

Ma and Pa Ingalls had four daughters, and these girls worked! They were not entertained to keep out of mischief. A leaf, a stick, a hanky, a corncob, and plenty of imagination could provide hours of enjoyment on a tree stump. And they obeyed when given orders, which could make the difference between life and death (encounter with a bear, fording a flooding river, fighting a chimney fire or wildfire).  The girls watched over each younger child everyday while the parents did farm work. Each daughter had daily jobs called chores and they were expected to be a part of the family and do her part to help the family survive during treacherous times.  For us, “treacherous times” translate as their “daily life.”

The family was responsible for their own food, and they had to work for almost every bite. Their diet included a lot of corn, using sacks of cornmeal traded for furs that Pa had trapped, but occasionally fresh ears and hulled corn.  During The Long Winter, my favorite book, the family and the whole town is malnourished, out of food, and starving to death. No trains can get through in order to deliver needed food supplies to the prairie town due to an extremely harsh winter and snow that blocks the tracks. Particularly read this book if you are considering moving to the American Redoubt and have never lived in the northern tier, i.e. snow country.

Laura and her family worked hard and they were not afraid of work. Laura lived from 1867-1957, ninety years. The childhood privations made her into the survivor she became and did not destroy her spirit or health.

These books were written for children. I read them as a child, I read them to my children, my grandchildren have begun the series, and now I reread them often. I teach in an urban elementary public school and introduce my class to Laura by reading one of her books aloud each year. Laura’s lifestyle is completely foreign to my students. However, in light of the world situation now in 2012, the books are more relevant than ever. I encourage you to acquire the set of books and cherish it. The Laura books are written in the style of our mentor, Jim Rawles. His book Patriots has been described as a handbook encased in a novel. The Laura books are how-to books for living in a primitive world without our ready access to modern conveniences and Wal-Mart.

Laura’s life spanned the period from right after the Civil War when panthers roamed the northern Big Woods and her mother cooked over a campfire on the open prairie, through the Great Depression, both World Wars, construction of the Interstate Highway system, invention of the automobile, and atomic bombs. She lived long enough to experience modern life such as running water, indoor plumbing, rapid transportation, antibiotics, washing machines, clothes dryers, and air conditioning. Her life was the essence of adaptability.

How did the Ingalls family spend their days? They were almost completely independent of a monetary system; they bartered and traded their way along life. A single penny was almost a fortune. They simply lived and lived simply, existed, and thrived, finding happiness and contentment on the life road they chose with faith, among family and a few friends in virgin land. These true pioneers had itchy feet, yearning for new, less crowded horizons with neighbors miles apart and sufficient wild game to hunt. They stopped moving west when Ma finally put her foot down and said, “No more.”

Laura proved to be made with great resilience and the ability to adapt to a changing world. These books are an incredible resource for individuals with interest in prepping for a changing future. Laura survived malaria, scarlet fever, and starvation.

I’ve listed her books with some of the crucial information bulleted that can be found embedded in each book. When you read the series, your outlook will be changed.  These books should be cherished and passed down. You will find the same themes running through each book: family as the basis for existence, importance of community and faith, simple recipes for simple foods, the joy that music brings to life, and an appreciation for the natural world.

Hopefully I’ve convinced you to purchase the Laura series, read them to yourself, your family, and learn from the practical lessons. The descriptions of flora and fauna in the untamed Midwest take your breath away.  Many, many people, both children and adults, have grown to love Laura and her writings. Vacationing families still visit her homesteads and home sites throughout the Midwest in Wisconsin, Kansas, Minnesota, South Dakota, and Missouri. She has had fan clubs since she began writing. Her inspiring story is classic and enduring.

There are dozens of other books written about Laura’s life and family by various authors, but they were not written by her, simply about her. The “Little House” books number only nine. Some other books about Laura and her growing up that round out her story that I have read and can recommend are: The Little House Cookbook by Barbara M. Walker; Young Pioneers by Rose Wilder Lane, Laura’s daughter; A Little House Sampler by Laura Ingalls Wilder and Rose Wilder Lane; Laura’s Album compiled by William Anderson; and On the Way Home by Laura Ingalls Wilder.  Enjoy!

Little House in the Big Woods

• ·       How to keep needles from rusting
• ·       Collecting maple sap
• ·       Making maple sugar
• ·       Gathering honey from wild bees
• ·       Making butter
• ·       Cheese-making with a calf’s stomach lining (rennet)
• ·       Pouring and molding lead bullets
• ·       Gun cleaning
• ·       Building a smokehouse from a hollow tree trunk
• ·       Harvesting and stacking oat sheaves
• ·       Making straw hats
• ·       Treating massive numbers of wasp stings
• ·       Gathering wild nuts
• ·       Nixtamalization of corn (preparing hulled corn)
• ·       Making a salt lick
• ·       Cooking varieties of squash and vegetables
• ·       Preserving various foods for cellar and attic
• ·       Insulating a house and barn with stones, dead leaves, and straw
• ·       Family and community entertainment and recreation
• ·       Personal hygiene and grooming
• ·       Housekeeping practices
• ·       Salting fish in barrels
• ·       Root cellaring
• ·       Braiding onions
• ·       Pig butchering
• ·       Making sausage and head cheese
• ·       Using a kerosene lamp

 
Little House on the Prairie

• ·       Fording a rising river with a team of horses
• ·       Outdoor cooking with cast iron cookware
• ·       Traveling cross-country in a covered wagon
• ·       Where to position a homestead in relation to a creek
• ·       Hand tools essential to homesteading
• ·       Building a notched-log cabin
• ·       Picket lines for horses
• ·       Importance of music for happiness and contentment
• ·       Importance of a good, faithful dog (watchdog/guard dog)
• ·       Why not to camp in creek bottoms (malaria)
• ·       Latch string to open/close a door
• ·       Importance of neighbors
• ·       Reusing bent nails
• ·       Chinking cracks in a log cabin wall
• ·       Building a stone fireplace with river rock
• ·       Constructing a stick and daub chimney
• ·       Log splitting for floors, roof, furniture
• ·       Preparing rabbit fur for clothing
• ·       Digging a well, testing for natural gas in the ground
• ·       Milking a wild cow
• ·       Drying wild blackberries
• ·       Recipes for various cornmeal dishes
• ·       Treating malaria
• ·       Chimney fire
• ·       Making a willow rocking chair
• ·       Fighting a prairie fire
• ·       When government makes rules

 
Farmer Boy

• ·       Abundance of food and simple recipes

 
On the Banks of Plum Creek

• ·       Grasshopper plague
• ·       When crops fail
• ·       Life cycle of a grasshopper
• ·       Minnesota blizzard
• ·       Getting caught out in a blizzard and surviving
• ·       Haying

 
By the Shores of Silver Lake

• ·       Effects of Scarlet Fever
• ·       Feeding livestock during a blizzard
• ·       Grading and scraping plowed land
• ·       Making a road cut
• ·       Mob psychology
• ·       Which water birds are fit to eat
• ·       Lyrics to many old-timey, long-lost songs
• ·       Making a homemade checkers game
• ·       Living on salt pork and wild game
• ·       Family working together to succeed at life
• ·       Taking in boarders to earn money
• ·       Fighting mosquitoes with smoking fires
 

The Long Winter

• ·       Saving seed for spring planting vs. eating the seed to survive
• ·       Braiding hay to burn for heat
• ·       Grinding wheat in a coffee mill daily to make bread
• ·       Surviving starvation
• ·       Isolation in winter
• ·       How starvation and malnutrition affects the body
• ·       Taking extreme life-threatening steps to survive
 

Little Town on the Prairie

• ·       Skimming cream
• ·       Teaching a calf to drink from a pail
• ·       Plowing prairie sod
• ·       Hand-feeding a tiny kitten
• ·       Sewing on a treadle machine
• ·       Hand-basting seams, buttonholes
• ·       Using a chicken tractor
• ·       Saving a corn crop from blackbirds
• ·       Entertainment in a small community
• ·       Public schools/education in the 1880’s

These Happy Golden Years

• ·       Severe winter in South Dakota
• ·       Breaking horses to buggy and wagon
• ·       Tornado season on the Great Plains
• ·       How to dress in bitter winter weather

 
The First Four Years

• ·       Pros and cons of farming as a career choice
• ·       When a homestead is invaded by thieves
• ·       Folksy sayings about the weather
• ·       Getting from house to barn in a blizzard to feed livestock
• ·       Stacking hay
• ·       Home birth
• ·       Diphtheria with complications
• ·       Prairie blizzard
• ·       Prairie fire
• ·       Prairie tornado
• ·       Youthful optimism

 



Letter Re: Eastern Thunderstorms and Power Outages

Good Morning Mr. Rawles,

You probably already know about this, but there are several good quotes in this article about the massive scope of the damage from nothing more than a few lines of strong thunderstorms over two days rumbling through my neck of the woods.

Folks were stranded in trains, stuck in traffic, crushed in their homes, and millions will be without grid power this coming week during a heat wave.

Even central valleys in interior states can suffer damage similar to a large tropical cyclone, so folks shouldn’t get cocky and fail to prepare.  As an aside, I finally purchased and just yesterday put into service my new NOAA alert radio (a Midland WR-300), programmed in the local SAME code(s), and got to hear that warning siren several times last night!  Even though the storms were fairly severe, luckily for us the tornado activity stayed northwest of our location by about 30 miles. – Mike in S.E. Virginia



Recipe of the Week:

Two Stinging Nettle Recipes from Notutopia

Stinging Nettle Pesto

Ingredients

¼ lb. young stinging nettle leaves
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
1 garlic clove, minced
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup firmly packed grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prep:

– Fill a large pot halfway full with water. Add ¼ cup salt and bring to a boil.
– For washing the nettles, fill a large bowl with cold water. Using latex gloves or tongs (if you’re allergic to rubber), submerge the nettles in the water and let them sit for 5 minutes. Remove the nettles
and discard the water. Wearing gloves, pull the leaves from the stems and discard the thicker stems.
– Put the cleaned washed nettles in the boiling water pot and boil for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and spread the nettles out on a baking
sheet. Let cool completely. Squeeze out as much of the water as possible and coarsely chop.
– Place the nettles in the bowl of a food processor, add the mint, garlic, pine nuts, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Process until the mixture has formed a pesto paste, then pour in the olive oil last.
Transfer the pesto paste into a bowl and fold in the cheese well into the mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Chef’s Notes:

Wear gloves when foraging, picking and handling stinging nettles! They have earned that name for a reason! Pick and use only young, delicate nettle leaves for this dish (wearing thick gloves and long sleeves, of course). If the nettles are clean enough, skip the cold-water stage of this recipe and go straight to the
blanching stage. Do not include any thick stems in this mix, you can blanch the stems and the leaves together and leave the stems on; they grind down into a paste just fine. This pesto is wonderful with fresh pasta, or used as a dressing for rolled tortillas.

 

Stinging Nettle Spaetzle

Ingredients:
2 cups All Purpose Flour
2 eggs
1 cup milk
pinch of salt and pepper
1/2 cup fine chopped blanched stinging nettles
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)

Prep:
-Pour flour into bowl, make a well in the center.
– Mix eggs and milk in well of flour, and slowly incorporate them into the flour. Mix thoroughly.
-Let dough rest preferably in the fridge for at least 1 hour.
-Season the batter to taste with salt and pepper, and mix in the chopped blanched stinging nettles. Let rest at room temperature for at least another hour for the flavors to mull.
-Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, place a perforated pan over the pot.
-Pour batter into the perforated pan, then use a bench scraper to push all the dough through the hole perforations into the boiling water below.
-Cook briefly until spaetzle is floating, then remove from water, using a spider, into a large bowl with EVOO in it.
-Toss the cooked spaetzle in a bowl to coat with olive oil, then pour out onto a sheet pan to cool.

Chef’s Notes: Wear gloves when foraging, picking and handling stinging nettles! They have earned that name for a reason!





Odds ‘n Sods:

I will be the keynote speaker via teleconference at Charlotte PrepCon. This is an event for North Carolina and South Carolina preppers. The conference will be held on July 14, 2012 in Ft. Mill, S.C. (near Charlotte, N.C.) Phone: (800) 704-1862 for details.

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Reader Chris M. sent us this: History teaches why you don’t want to become a disaster refugee or an Internally Displaced Person (IDP).

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Don’t miss this: Pantry Paratus Interviews Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms.

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How to make a $1 Homemade Mosquito Bag Fan Trap kills bugs dead. (Thanks to Robb M. for the link.)

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J.McC. sent an article illustrating the perils of wireless home Internet routers: Police: ‘Threat matrix’ dictated SWAT team response at Powell Avenue home. Sadly, there is an epidemic of “Isolated Incidents”. Thankfully there have been very few in The American Redoubt region.