A Second Look at the Mosin-Nagant Rifle, by Frog

I got myself into prepping and survivalism after the turn of the century, so my main resource was the Internet. That in and of itself was a whole learning process, as well — but the scope of this article will focus on what appeared to be an amazing find in that great, infinite Google. $80 for an accurate, reliable, rugged bolt-action repeater that was on-par with a .30-06, ballistically… and had dirt-cheap ammo, to boot? There had to be a catch, and oh, how the forum-goers toting $5,000 AR setups assured me (and plenty of people in similar metaphorical boats) that it couldn’t hit the broad side of a barn (from the inside), it blew up, all the bolts stuck, the triggers were horrible and couldn’t be fixed, and the corrosive ammo wasn’t worth the trouble.

Boy, how I learned how wrong they were. Though I’ve had a fascination with the rifles for quite some time, I ended up acquiring other weapons first, as fate would have it. However, I’ve since gotten my own example, and no longer have to bother friends or roommates to get a chance to toy around with one (although an acquaintance at gunsmithing school had a beautiful 91/30 he’d refinished the wood on, himself).

My rifle is a round receiver Tula, 91/30. I was lucky enough to get one with an excellent bore, bolt, and all the accessories (oiler, tools in cloth wrap, sling, bayonet and two ammo pouches), while paying only $90 in-person. $80 online is still a perfectly fair price, even after transfer and shipping — though I would advise anyone purchasing multiple specimens, or other qualifying weapons, to consider a Curio and Relic license, if that is in your interest.

The rifle’s main detriment that I’ve determined thus far? The sights. They’re not bad — though I’m biased, and apparently an abnormality when it comes to American shooters raised with traditional American guns, for the most part. However, the majority of my open-sight shooting since adulthood has been with an AK variant, which has very similar sights, anyway. That doesn’t change what they are, though; crude, dark, and on some guns, not even adjustable to make your point-of-aim the same as point-of-impact. A $5 part fixes this, and I suspect that the better quality sample you acquire, the less likely the phenomenon is. If you’re new to Russian sights, try to remember that it’s something you get used to. There’s nothing directly ‘wrong’ with them; they’re not always as precise, and they’re just different.

In the course of my life to date, I’ve fired three Mosins, including my own. They have all been 91/30s, and I have never seen any of them malfunction, not that bolt actions are particularly susceptible. A common story I found online, initially, had me worried about ‘sticky bolt.’ Don’t believe everything you read, though; degreasing the gun (with one of a variety of methods, or multiple, ideally) will eliminate this problem nine out of ten times. My rifle’s action is as smooth as my Mauser. Sticky bolt happens when cosmoline is not completely removed from the gun, and subsequently heats up and turns to a very sticky, unfavorable substance. Removing it is slightly harder after that happens, but still easy, in any case. Make sure you remove all cosmoline before shooting your rifle at all. While it won’t wreck the gun, it’s just not a good idea to let it build up.

Another problem mentioned for the guns is the relative difficulty of mounting a scope. A traditional job can be done to flop the bolt handle and fandagle a mount like the sniper Mosin variants had, and while those are fine, they are not my recommendation. The Brass Stacker mount goes over the rear sight, solidly locks, and allows a scout-style scope to be mounted — my choice being a Simmons Prohunter in fixed 4x power. The mount is superior to similar ones not only in quality, but in that it allows the rifle’s iron sights to stay on the rifle, unchanged. Any weapon you have for real-world use should have iron sights, even if it also has an optic. Right now, that translates to being able to keep hunting if your scope malfunctions; post-SHTF, that could mean still making accurate hits instead of area-effect fire after an optic goes down. Regardless, a scope is not necessary with these weapons; [the Finnish army marksman] Simo Hayha demonstrated that well enough. My strategy thus far is going to be to scope two rifles (for me and my lady-friend), and keep the rest with iron sights, mainly as backup and hand-out weapons.

If you’ve never shot a Mosin, and you get an opportunity to, accuracy test it and you’ll be surprised. Obviously, surplus ammo is less accurate than current-manufacture, but a scoped 91/30 will absolutely keep up with other surplus rifles. I wouldn’t feel under-gunned shooting it against a Mauser, assuming it wasn’t sporterized. If you picked a good rifle and use good ammunition, 1 MOA isn’t uncommon with quality optics. Iron sights, expect whatever your proficiency level is; my rifle outshoots me, and I’m not a terrible shot, by any means.

One unfortunate thing that is true of Mosins is that the stripper clips suck. No bones to pick about this one; rimmed casings make them awkward. Some are completely unusable, others just difficult, but they’re nothing I’d ever trust my life to. Furthermore, they’re expensive! While SKS stripper clips are cents a piece, Mosin ones can be as much as $3-5 per clip! For an $80 rifle, that’s not worth it, to me — but they’re unreliable, either way, and I thusly recommend sticking to hand-loading [the internal magazine on] these [with individual cartridges]. For what they are, if you’re doing everything correctly, an absolute speed-reload shouldn’t be as necessary as with other weapons. Make your shots count and learn to load by hand as quickly as possible.

Getting a Mosin quickly teaches you about corrosive ammo. I’m still learning, on that account, but the method I’ve been using is to disassemble the gun, spray the metal parts down with Windex to soak, and then let more Windex flow through the bore. Apparently, the ammonia is thought to be good for removing corrosive salts, but I can’t attest to that. Some people use hot water to the same effect, and I wouldn’t feel uncomfortable doing so. In any case, after your corrosion-cleaner of choice, clean the rifle as normal — though, thoroughly, especially if you don’t shoot often or are going to store the rifle for any length of time. Better safe than sorry. Surplus ammo has acceptable, although certainly not outstanding accuracy. Don’t be afraid of corrosive ammunition if it’s your first experience with it. Again, it’s just different; take care of the gun and it’ll take care of you.

While the rifles aren’t light, they’re very well-balanced. A fiberglass stock would help, but again, I don’t recommend getting that simply because of the price. Recoil is stiff, but not overly so. If you’ve fired a .30-06 in a similar configuration, a 91/30 is nothing new. Carbine variants will blow your hat off and singe your hair, though. While they’re very cool, I find the longer rifle makes more sense because of the role I’ll be describing for it to fill — and again, because it’s much less expensive than its smaller cousins.

With all of this being said, what is a Mosin, to a prepper? I have to preface by making it clear that I understand there are better alternatives, but it needs to be said that there is not a better value in a centerfire survival weapon, especially to a newcomer into survivalism. A Mosin is a budget marksman’s rifle, or sniper rifle if outfitted properly. For under a hundred dollars, you have a full-power centerfire rifle with inexpensive ammunition that can take down game animals, and easily incapacitate any threats — and better yet, at range. While a 12 gauge shotgun can be similarly inexpensive if a good deal is found (and I recommend a Remington 870 per person in your group’s arsenal), a Mosin allows you to effectively neutralize threats at a greater distance, with greater accuracy, and significantly less expensive ammo.

Ambush is the prepper’s friend. Guns-blazing shootouts are not what you want, whether it’s a roving band of outlaws, or coalition forces you’re having to deal with. In most situations, distance is preferable, and this also allows greater use of stealth and camouflage, and potentially using the landscape to your team’s advantage, as well. Ground forces fear snipers, and deploying snipers effectively makes for an insane force multiplier. An $80 rifle and a little training will take you a lot farther than a spendy AR and no experience.

While I have to encourage everyone to find the autoloading carbine of your choice (I recommend the AK most of all, though I prefer the FAL, excepting its price tag), remember that the longest-serving rifle in history isn’t obsolete just yet. They make great gifts and backup weapons, and are easy to encourage new preppers to invest in. Inexpensive, reliable, accurate, and fun as Heck to shoot. If you’re new to shooting, get one and practice on the cheap. If you’re seasoned, get a few and hide them away — along with a few spam cans of ammo, of course.

Letter Re: Low-Cost Knives for Long-Term Survival

Mr. Rawles,
I am writing with regards to M.B.’s piece. I have had the 12″ Ontario machete (economy version) with the the “D” handle for the past two years. I would completely agree that this is an uncomfortable handle which can be difficult to obtain a proper grip on.

However, I solved this problem cheaply with a little bit if DIY, by folding some tough tissue paper and wrapping it around the handle two or three times. I then wrapped the handle and tissue in electric insulation tape, using about two layers of tape.

Since doing this, the machete is much easier to handle and I can get a much firmer grip on it. It has received regular use on the trail, mainly for chopping large kindling or clearing brush, and the new grip has even survived being submerged in water (after I slipped at the side of a river and fell in) without any damage or ill effects to the new grip.

Thank you For the great blog! Regards, – Stephen C.

Letter Re: Home Water Storage in Water Cooler Bottles

Hello.
I am a brand new prepper. Within the last year I have been introduced to the world of Prepping and preparedness by a co-worker of mine. I have been reading up on as much as I can, but despite my efforts at increasing my knowledge and awareness of disaster preparedness, I am woefully un-prepared for even the slightest disaster or minor interruption of my accustomed lifestyle. I am beginning to acquire some extra food items, and I am making small steps toward expanding my food and water storage.

One thing that I have been thinking about of late, is the topic of water storage. I have already determined that when the SHTF I will be bugging in, as I have a family with two young kids, and really nowhere else to go. I need to make room in my house for all of my appropriate storage needs. Right now I have a small water cooler in my house, and use the large 5 gallon bottled water jugs. As I was pouring myself a glass of water the other day, I wondered if it would be possible to use those 5 gallon water bottles for my water storage. What I would like to do is to store an extra bottle every time I have the water delivered until I obtain a suitable amount for storage. I was also wondering if I could re-use the empty bottles as well for additional storage. As I look at the bottles, I don’t think they are meant for long term storage.

My question is: Would those water bottles be a suitable method of long term water storage, and is there a way that I could provide for a better seal around the opening that would allow them to be used for long term storage? Thank you for putting up this blog, and all of the valuable insight that comes with it. I would appreciate any advice on my question. Thank you. – Matt B.

JWR Replies: Yes, those work fine. In my experience, the plastic caps that come from the spring water companies are adequate if you tape them on. But be sure to first lightly chlorinate the water. The bigger issue is exposure to sunlight. Be sure to store your water in a dark place such as a closet, to prevent algal growth.

To make water that has been stored many months more palatable for drinking, you can aerate it. This can be accomplished with a wire whisk or a hand-crank rotary egg beater. Or, lacking those, you can just rapidly pour the water back and forth between two glasses several times.

Economics and Investing:

Gary S. spotted this: The Next Metal Crisis: Copper

The cascading waves of debt implosion – 5 charts looking at debt leverage, velocity of money, and contagion impacts from the European crisis.

25 Horrible Statistics About The U.S. Economy

The Daily Bell reports: Austerity Staggers, Germany Blows Up?

Items from The Economatrix:

Maybe No Housing Rebound For a Generation

US Slowdown Intensifies Global Economic Crisis

Signs of Slowing Economy Drive S&P Down in April

Five Banks Fail in Worst Week Since April 2011

Odds ‘n Sods:

There will be a new Survivalist Show held in Mesa, Arizona, on May 19th. This one-day show will be held at the Commemorative Air Force Museum, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Proceeds will benefit the museum. As a bonus, attendees will also have the opportunity to tour the war bird museum at no extra charge. For information, call Lance Baker at: (480) 229-5691.

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Rhonda T. mentioned an interactive summary of state self-defense laws that was posted by CNN: Expanded self-defense laws

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Our newest advertiser, Be Prepared Now, has a kit of 27 varieties of non-hybrid survival vegetable seeds packed in a heat sealed Mylar bag available for $40.49. They also have a waterproof first aid kit with sutures for $22.49. Their shipping is always free.  To get these prices, use the coupon code SurvivalBlog (one word). This coupon code will give you 10% off all their merchandise.

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Hopefully not a bellwether, HandgunLaw.us reports that New Mexico has just dropped concealed carry permit reciprocity with Arkansas, Colorado, Delaware, Kansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Ohio, Tennessee, Texas and West Virginia from the list of states they honor. Presumably, this is because of differences in testing standards for permit holders. New Mexico will now only honor CCWs from five states: Missouri, Nebraska, North Carolina, North Dakota and Oklahoma. The last thing we need is “trade war” on CCW permits! (Thanks to Tim M. for the alert.)

Notes from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 40 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 40 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

—

But first, a publishing update from your editor.

Publishing Schedule Update From JWR

Here are some updates on my upcoming book release dates from Atria Books and its subsidiary Pocket Books division:

Founders Cover

 

To explain: “Founders” is the second sequel to “Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse”. It is set contemporaneously to the first two novels, but in different geography, with some crossover characters. This novel details the epic cross-country trek of Ken and Terry Layton that was just briefly described in “Patriots”. There are also storylines at Malmstrom Air Force Base, Montana, and in the vicinity of Fort Knox, Kentucky.

I am presently drafting the non-fiction book “Rawles on Guns and Other Tools for Survival” for Penguin Books as well as two more novels in the “Patriots” series that will be published by E.P. Dutton. (Penguin is a subsidiary of E.P. Dutton.)

Special Note: Please wait until the actual release dates of each book to order, to give them the best position in the Amazon and Barnes & Noble sales rankings as well as on the New York Times bestsellers lists.

Make Yourself Valuable After TEOTWAWKI, by Dalton M.

Most people spend time perfecting their bug-out bag, or their bug-in kit, ensuring they can adequately survive on their own in the event of a catastrophe here. Many envision themselves in the role of “Eli” from the recent movie The Book of Eli, a lone wanderer who fends for himself as he travels in a post-apocalyptic world. I am of the opinion, as are many true preppers, that it will take a community to not only survive, but to prosper in a TEOTWAWKI scenario.

Let’s assume for a moment that your current neighborhood is not conducive to building that community, or that, for whatever reason, the group around you fails to thrive. You may have to move on to another area. When you reach that area, you will likely be greeted as an outsider and any town you reach will likely be reluctant to let you into their community. You will likely be viewed as just another begging traveler who is looking for the safety of a group, but could end up being a free-loader who is nothing more than another mouth to feed, another potential trouble maker, or another carrier of disease.

What will you say to persuade a community to believe that it is worth their time to take you into their group? What do you have to offer that others can’t provide?

You don’t have to be a former Navy SEAL who can single-handedly defend the town. You don’t have to be a former military commanding officer-turned-mayor with the leadership skills to organize the community into an army.  In some cases, you don’t have to be strong or even that smart. All you need is a unique skill. Lacking that, you need to have a skill that can aid others with a similar set of skills in accomplishing a goal more efficiently or productively.

If you don’t have anything to offer, you could be turned away and left to fend for yourself.
Now is the time to build skills that will be useful enough to gain acceptance in that scenario. These skills may have nothing to do with your current reality, but if you take the time to learn as much as you can, you will be an asset to a community that will make your presence not only worthwhile, but necessary.

This isn’t a how-to. It’s likely that you won’t learn anything from reading this. The point of this is to help you consider, if you haven’t already, ways to make yourself valuable in a post-TEOTWAWKI situation. I’m simply going to mention a few skills that you can build now to reach that end. The skills I talk about are not listed in any particular order, and some may be much more important than others. This is just to stir some thought on what you will be able to provide in the event that you need to. Also, this list is far from all-inclusive. You may think of many other skill sets that are equally (or even more) important. If so, work on them. Build them. Your life, and the life of your community, may very well depend on it.

1) Communications – No matter what form of catastrophe has caused the collapse of society, communication with the world outside of your immediate area can be crucial. People will want to know what is happening beyond the horizon, the condition the government, the condition of other communities, or just, in general, what is going on. It is likely, however, that you won’t be able to just pick up the phone and call anyone. Telephone lines may be interrupted or completely disabled. A viable alternative is ham radio. The skills required to operate ham radio are not as common as they once were, are relatively easy to learn, and the equipment can be cheap (although it can get expensive if you want the “latest and greatest” gear).  Keep reference materials available. You may not be able to memorize everything. This skill alone may not be enough to grant you a position of esteem within a community, but it certainly couldn’t hurt your chances of being taken in as a member of the group.

2) Farming/Gardening – In many areas across the nation, this is a fading skill. The skills you can learn from maintaining a small garden in your yard could be critical when the SHTF. Even if you don’t have enough room for a small garden, read all you can on the subject and make a notebook or a manual. Make your own comprehensive version of “Farming for dummies”. The internet is bursting at the seams with information, but it’s likely that you won’t have access to it post-TEOTWAWKI, so make a survivable record of the information you think will be important. Gather information from multiple sources and record it all. Test out different methods if you can, focusing on techniques that don’t require heavy tools or chemicals. Find out how people did it a hundred years ago or more, and prepare yourself to mimic those methods. Set aside tools and seeds if you can afford it and if you have the storage space, but at a bare minimum, make yourself a written reference so that even if you’re not a farmer now, you have some hope of becoming one if the need arises.

3)  Food gathering – Do you know what plants in your local area are edible? Better yet, do you know which plants taste good? Information on the subject is available in book stores, camping/hiking stores, or online. Find the information and read through it. Don’t just read it from the comfort of your recliner – get out and take a walk with your reference material. See if you can locate the plants in the woods or even along roadways. Learning what they look like in the real world now, when you don’t need them, can save you from the time and effort of trial and error when you do. Once again, make yourself a survivable reference book on the subject. Try to include your entire state, maybe even the surrounding states. You never know where fate may take you in the event of TEOTWAWKI. Learn to not only identify these plants, but how to prepare them properly. Learn which local plants have medicinal properties and how to use them. The ability to keep others well-fed and healthy can make you a very valuable member of a community.

4) Food storage – My grandmother and her friends canned all kinds of things, but if you asked my wife how to do it, I’m pretty sure you would just get a shrug for an answer. Canning/preserving foods as a hobby is not only a good way to stockpile your own emergency supplies, but it’s also a great way to build the skill necessary to preserve food later, when you really need it. I’m not just talking about canning here. Preserving meat will be necessary too. Do you know how to make jerky? Nope, I don’t mean with your 9-tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator, I mean with a purpose-made, wood burning smoker, or even over a campfire. Hunting in the summertime or growing crops may provide more food than your group can readily consume, and knowing how to preserve that food for later may make the difference when winter comes and food is more scarce. My grandmother may not be there to show others how it’s done, so if you know how, then people will want you around.

5)  Mechanics – Even in the event of an EMP attack, (which would probably be the worst case scenario, technologically) older, simpler vehicles may still function. But if they break down, who will repair them? Or what if you want to use that engine to power a mill? Or to pump water? If you’re mechanically inclined, the skills necessary to maintain or build machinery will be highly sought after by any community.

6) Soap or candle making – In our modern world, we have grown accustomed to buying soap or candles, but before the age of Wal-Mart, making these items was the only way to get them. You may not get rich, or whatever version of “rich” exists after TEOTWAWKI, but both items will be in high demand if Wal-Mart ceases to provide them. Making soap or candles can be a fun hobby, a source of income even now, and can be a very useful skill to offer if it is needed in the future. Even if starting a new hobby like that is not your cup of tea now, making a reference guide from information found online or in books, and practicing enough to work out the details could be enough to give you something to offer later.

These are just a few ideas. Notice that I didn’t mention medical skills or security skills. Obviously medical skills (beyond the basics, which you should already know or be learning) are not something that you can learn in “on the side”. I believe that when it comes to security services, every able bodied individual in any community will most likely be recruited and trained for that task. Advanced knowledge or experience can definitely be an advantage, but that topic is covered a lot in other forums/articles/blogs, so any information I put in here would be rudimentary at best. I also didn’t mention blacksmithing, animal husbandry, gunsmithing, dentistry, carpentry and no doubt countless others. If you have specialized skills such as these, you don’t need to read this. You already have your ticket.

If you’re like most people, however, you might want to consider learning a set of skills, such as the ones I described or any other valuable skill that you come up with on your own, in order to make yourself a person who will not be a burden to your post-TEOTWAWKI community, but a valuable member who is worth feeding, supporting and defending.  

One more thing I’d like to mention is that no matter what skills you have to offer, your worth in a community will also be based on who you are and how you deal with others. If you are to be a worthwhile member of a community, it is equally important that you maintain a community mindset when it comes to using your skills. I’m not saying that you should give your services away, but always keep in mind that while your particular skills may be necessary for the survival of the community, the community as a whole is necessary for your own survival. Be the kind of honest and fair person that you would want to deal with and it’s likely that others will want to deal with you.

Two Letters Re: Motorcycle BOV

Jim:
This video shows why motorcycles are the answer to rural mobility. The 11 minute video is of a road that was washed out by storms, apparently in Japan. Much of it is overgrown and vanishing and the motorcyclist has to dodge quite a few downed limbs. – InyoKern

 

James,
I would like to thank Jeff H. for writing this article on the use of a motorcycle as a BOV as I was planning on doing the same in the near future.  He touched on quite a few very good topics.  But, from his submission, you can tell that he is a more experienced motorcyclist.  I would like to share my thoughts from a beginner/novice point of view.  The one difference of opinion that I have is concerning the bike’s size.  I definitely agree with the suggestion of getting a Dual Sport/Dual Purpose/Adventure Touring bike that is a 650 cc or larger when you need it to be your pack mule, or want to do cross country highway trips.  But, I don’t want the smaller Dual Sport bikes to be overlooked for a variety of reasons.  I just purchased a small Dual Sport bike a few months ago with the mindset of using it as a possible BOV, as well as a daily commuter.  The following takes you through the reasoning I took in purchasing a small Dual Sport Bike:
 
Cost
First and foremost, I have never ridden/owned a bike for the street (a dirt bike here and there), so I did not want to invest too much money on something that I may not like.  For a larger bike, you will be paying more money up front.  The bike I purchased is a 2009 Yamaha XT250.  This bike sells new for about $4,500 (other bikes in this range can be had for under $4,000).  A new 650 starts around $6,000, and a can go up past $10,000 for the larger displacement bikes.  Add the insurance difference on top of that (especially if you are a young male like myself), the riding gear, and that makes for a fairly large investment for something you may not like.  Other than the initial purchase, you will be feeding this thing money in the forms of fuel and maintenance.  The XT250 only has about a 2.5 Gal fuel tank, but I have gotten between 70-75 MPG (roughly a 150+ Mile Range).  Each bike is different, but the average “High” MPG from the larger bikes I have seen is between 40-65 MPG.  The maintenance on a single cylinder, air cooled engine is not going to be as time/money consuming as a liquid cooled larger engine (there are some air cooled units though).
 
Ergonomics
A small bike is generally a light bike.  The XT250’s weight is somewhere in the 250-290 lbs, while a Kawasaki KLR650 is in the 430 lb range, and they just go up from there.  It may not seem like a lot, but if you are truly in a G.O.O.D. situation and your bike gets stuck in the mud or tips over, what would you rather struggle with?  Seat height is another consideration.  Most Dual Sport bikes are “dirt bikes with lights”, so they can be awkward for some people (especially those who are inexperienced or vertically challenged).  I am about 6’ with a 32” inseam, and when stopped at a light, I can get both feet flat on the ground comfortably.  When shopping for a bike, I sat on a variety of different Dual Sport bikes, and the larger bikes (like the Kawasaki 650) I felt quite uncomfortable while stopped (I either had to have the bike tipped to the side, or be on my toes) as I could only get one foot on the ground.  This in addition to the 400+ pound curb weight didn’t make me feel too comfortable.  This may be a non-issue for an experienced rider, but as a novice, I felt like I was going to tip over and I didn’t even have any riding gear on, no backpack, no extra luggage, etc.  If this bike is still too tall for some of you; the Honda CRF230M is a strong candidate, and a much smaller bike (I felt, and looked, like I was riding a kids bike).
 
Simplicity
It doesn’t get much more simple than a single cylinder, air cooled, carbureted, dirt bike.  The only electronics the XT250 has are the lights/signals, speedometer, electronic ignition, and the handlebar controls.  The only thing that is absolutely needed out of those is the ignition control box.  Most larger bikes have fuel injection at a minimum, and quite a few newer ones have ABS, Traction Control, Fuel Injection, etc.  Also, as far as fluids go, most small displacement, single cylinder, air cooled bikes only have the engine oil and brake fluid.  If the bike is liquid cooled, then you have coolant on top of that (as well as everything that is needed for the liquid cooling: Radiator, Coolant, Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses/Lines, Complex Cylinder Head, etc.).  Fuel injection is nice, but adds another computer, a bunch of sensors, fuel injectors, etc.  Carburetors have their own problems, but it is possible to MacGyver them in the field if need be. 
 
Conclusion
I know that I just touched on a few choice areas concerning a smaller displacement bike; the main goal of this writing is to keep your options open.  There is a good reason that the XT250 and XT225 (the XT250’s Predecessor) are used worldwide as transportation.  These bikes are hugely popular in Europe and Asia.  They are not without their faults, but a very good alternative if the thought of a larger bike isn’t too appealing in your situation.  These bikes aren’t made for cross country highway cruising, but they can handle occasional highway use; the winds really push you around though (since the bike is under 300#).  Being carbureted there is a short warm-up period vs. fuel injected which is ready to go right away.  Please do your research about what bike is best for you; there are a lot of good forums out there about these bikes with first hand experience.  Reading about the extreme reliability and durability of the XT250 was the deciding factor (some people have logged more than 30,000 miles on a 2008!).  I am very pleased with this bike and will recommend it to anyone who is on the fence, but you just need to learn the limitations of whatever you choose.  This bike is very forgiving and not overly intimidating for the first time rider, but it is also a blast for the more experienced rider – “It’s more fun to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow”!  And, for the sake of safety, whichever bike you choose, make sure that you use All The Gear All The Time. 
 
Resources
Adventure Rider Forums
XT225/250 Forums
Thumper Talk Forums

Regards, – O.V.

Letter Re: List of Countries by Real Population Density

James Wesley:
As they say in the radio world, “long time listener, first time caller”…

First off, thank you for sharing your words of wisdom for those of us who aren’t prepared.  Admittedly, I am one of those fence-sitters, liking the idea of prepping but not having near enough money to start in that direction, let alone uproot the new wife farther from her family than we already are.  Nonetheless, your articles (and those by your contributors on SurvivalBlog.com) are eye-opening and help me remind myself that we are just a few small steps from something really bad.

As to the purpose of my e-mail, I read Dr. Hugh’s article on Real Population Density, and the follow-up letters in which he asked someone to do research on which of the United States had the most arable land per person.  Since I’ve a keen mind for doing research (and had some free time to burn), I went to the USDA Economic Research Service web site, which gave me both the 2010 state populations and the number of acres of “cropland” (which I’m guessing is USDA-speak for arable land).  I modified the chart to show the same final data (people/sq km) as the previous chart mentioned, and I also sorted the chart in order of most amount to least amount of land.  Here’s the chart:

Population Density Table

As they taught me in college, statistics are of no use unless they are analyzed properly.  Here are some of my thoughts regarding the above data.

1)       The “breadbasket” states rose to the top, while most of the east coast (with the exception of Vermont) ranked near the bottom.  The usability of land is certainly a factor, but I wonder how much of this also has to do with how the states were drawn out during their founding.  If you recall your history, we tended to be much more liberal with our state sizes as we headed further out west.
2)      Alaska and Hawaii both ranked near the bottom.  That’s probably another good reason to not include them on the G.O.O.D. destination sites.
3)      There’s no distinction between the parts of the state that are heavily populated and the rest of the state (Chicago versus Illinois as a whole, for instance); this chart gives us what can best be described as a weighted average of the state.  Sort of on that note also, there’s no telling that residents of one state that rank low in arable land can’t just jump to a bordering state (Arizona to New Mexico is a good example).

One final note—that web site may be useful for other purposes related to prepping.  It also has data on top agricultural commodities exported, federal funds received, and farm financial indicators.  Please take a look.

Again, thank you for keeping us updated on how to better prepare ourselves for WTSHTF.  As they would say in the Navy, keep your head on a swivel.

Respectfully, – Mr. Anchovy

Economics and Investing:

Peter S. sent this prediction of housing market doom: Maybe no housing rebound for a generation: Shiller . In an another interview, he said: We Are in Age of ‘Late Great Depression’

Michael Pollaro: The Bernanke Bust, the why how and when

The Results Are In: Conservative States Prosper, While Liberal States Decline. (Thanks to James C. for the link.)

G.G. flagged this evidence that the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB) is far from over: Senate votes to slow closing of post offices

Items from The Economatrix:

Gold Will Win Money War

Derivatives:  The Unregulated Global Casino For Banks

Two Meltdowns:  Fukushima and the US Economy

Orders for US Durable Goods Drops Most in Three Years

US Economy Grew Less than Forecast in First Quarter

Spanish Economy in “Huge Crisis” After Downgrade

Odds ‘n Sods:

An update from Dr. Bob at Surviving Healthy: Change is Good? (The Missouri State Pharmacy Board has been hounding him, so he now must see each patient in person in Branson, Missouri.)

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Tim J. sent this article on post-Schumer aftermath: For 22 murder victims, Los Angeles Riots leave legacy of justice eluded.

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Anti-Bullying Speaker Curses Christian Teens. JWR’s Comment: Sounds like a bully to me…

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Reader Joe K. mentioned a survivalist novel called “A Distant Eden” available as an e-book, through Amazon.com. Joe’s comment: “For 99 cents this is a pretty good read.  I found it to be a good afternoon read and it did provoke some things to consider.”

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Several readers mentioned this mainstream media hoopla: Police blow Washington mountain bunker, find man dead. (JWR’s Comments: The demonization of survivalism continues. And something tells me that we aren’t getting the whole story about this family. Reader B.C.’s comment: “This is pretty scary stuff. Pets shot. Wife and child shot in the head. House set on fire. Survivalist on the run. It’s almost straight out of [the frame-up described in the novel] Enemies Foreign and Domestic by Matthew Bracken.)

Pat’s Product Review: Montie Gear AR Rest

Over the past month or so, I’ve received quite a few requests from folks who want me to test and evaluate their products. I enjoy testing products for SurvivalBlog, and reporting back my findings to SurvivalBlog readers. Some of the companies that contact me, have a lot of questions, and I’m happy to answer them. Some companies ask me if I can guarantee that I’ll write an article on their products – and the answer is “yes.” Then, they ask me if I can guarantee them that the article will appear on SurvivalBlog – I refer them to Jim Rawles, as he’s the editor, and gives the final yea or nay on if or when a piece runs. And, lastly, some folks ask me if I am going to give their products a “positive” review in my article. My answer to them is “no!” I will never guarantee anyone that I will give their products a positive review – I report my findings as fairly and honestly as I can. If those products aren’t up to par, or as advertised, that’s the way I will report my findings.
 
When I was publishing and editing a little newsletter called “Police Hot Sheet” many years ago, I was contacted by a fellow who made an impact device, and he told me if was more effective than a hit from a 12 gauge shotgun. Needless to say, I was more than a little skeptical of those claims. Still, I promised to have one of my writers, a well-known martial artist test and evaluate this product. Of course, his findings were that this impact device wasn’t as effective at stopping an attacker as a hit from a 12 gauge would be, and the product took quite a bit of training and practice to use properly and effectively. The fellow who sent me that product threatened to sue me if I ran the review, but I ran it! And, in fact he didn’t sue me. So, please, if you want me to give you a guarantee that I will give you products a positive review on SurvivalBlog, then don’t bother contacting me or Jim Rawles – that’s not the way we do business. SurvivalBlog readers deserve a fair and honest review of products.
 
The newest product under review today is called the “Original AR-Rest” and is being produced by Montie Gear. The folks at this company contacted me several weeks ago, and asked me to review some of their products, one was their new sling-shot, they were out of stock, but promised one would be coming in a few weeks. The other product is their AR-Rest, which arrived quickly, as promised. I’ve got to admit, I’ve never heard of Montie Gear before they contacted me, however, they have quite a few products on their web site, that should be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers – check them out.
 
Okay, the AR-Rest, gee, let’s see, what’s “new” about a rifle rest, that hasn’t already been done? Well, the Montie Gear AR-Rest is portable. It comes apart and goes back together in a matter of seconds, and it can be carried in your shooting box or your AR rifle case. The AR-Rest only weighs about 19-oz, so it’s very lightweight, you won’t even know you have it in your shooting box or AR rifle case. The AR-Rest is made out of sturdy aluminum, that is industrial-grade black powder coated. There is a spring-loaded stainless-steel (wire attached)pin that holds this tri-pod together, too. The “rest” portion of the AR-Rest has soft rubber covers in the “V” of the rest, so your rifle won’t be damaged or scratched. The legs on the rest have grooves machined into – so when shooting over a bench rest or going prone, the rest really digs in and remains stable. There are also additional rubber covers for the bottom of the legs – for using the rest over the hood of a car – so you don’t scratch the paint on the car.
 
When shooting rifles for accuracy, I try to wring out as much accuracy as I can – without resorting to a “mechanical” rest of some sort. I usually shoot over the hood of my car, using a sleeping bag, rolled-up jacket, a soft, padded rest of some sort – or whatever I have on-hand. It gives me better results than just using an elbow to steady a rifle. The Montie Gear AR-Rest will give you a  more stable and secure rest, for those of you who want the most accuracy you can squeeze out of an AR-15 style rifle. And, this rest isn’t just designed for use with an AR, I also tested it with an AK-47, and even with it’s longer 30-rd mag, the rifle was still not touching the hood of the car. The idea behind the AR-Rest is that, you can use it with long magazines in your rifles, without the rifle “mono-podding” on the magazine – and the AR-Rest delivers in this respect. You can also use the rest for benching other rifles as well. Montie Gear makes several other models of rests, but I think the AR-Rest will meet most of your needs.
 
I did find that, my groups did tighten-up more with the AR-Rest, than with my AR over a rolled-up sleeping bag, so the rest delivered as promised, and the height of the AR with a 30-rd mag in it, didn’t allow the magazine to touch the ground – and as already mentioned, the same goes for an AK-47 with a 30-rd mag installed.
 
My one minor complaint with the Montie Gear AR-Rest are the rubber covers that are included, for installing on the bottom of the legs of the tripod. The rubber caps are a bit too small and don’t completely cover the bottom of the legs, nor do they stay in place when shooting. An instruction sheet is included, that states you can use Super-Glue to secure the rubber covers on the legs. You shouldn’t have to do that! The rubber covers that came with the AR-Rest appear to be an after-thought, and maybe purchased from an outside source – as an a quick fix to a minor problem. After firing several rounds through my AR on the AR-Rest, the rubber covers would slip off the bottom of the legs. And, “yes” I did try to Super-Glue the rubber covers on – and it didn’t work. I would suggest using rubber cement – that would hold the rubber covers on better. Of course, you only need to use the rubber covers if you’re shooting over the hood of a car and don’t want to scratch the paint job. When shooting over a bench, or going prone, you don’t need the little rubber covers. I’m not alone in my one minor complaint about the AR-Rest. You can view similar complaints on the Montie Gear web site – and I do applaud Montie Gear, for posting those comments from customers – most companies wouldn’t post negative comments. Thank you, Montie Gear, for your honesty!
 
I believe that Montie Gear should replace the little rubber covers, with something that is specifically made for their rest – it shouldn’t cost them very much. Another alternative would be to use some of that “plastic” dip – that you can get from most hardware stores. You dip the end of your pliers, or other tools into it, and it gives you a firm gripping surface. You can do the same thing with the AR-Rest, just dip the bottom of the three legs of the tripod into this solution, and it will work beautifully.
 
A lot of people shoot their rifles, over a bench, when shooting for accuracy at a target, so the little rubber covers won’t be needed, same goes for going prone on the ground. All-in-all, I was very pleased with the Montie Gear AR-Rest, it performed as advertised – it provided a solid rest for a rifle, so a person can wring the most accuracy out of their long guns when shooting long-range. I don’t see the AR-Rest falling apart – it’s very well-built, and it should last you through a lifetime of target practice. The rest retails for $59.95, and the price seems more than fair – especially for an American-made product. Pick one up, and watch your long-range shooting scores improve.