Letter Re: A Science Based Technique for Seasoning Cast Iron

Dear Hugh,

Hi – first off, I am in NO way an expert or even knowledgeable enough about this matter to offer advice.

After reading Chemistry of Cast Iron Seasoning in Odds ‘n Sods,I became interested in the subject as I generally just use grapeseed oil to season my pans. The very first article I pulled up not only refuted the information in the article above, but it also suggested that taking the advice of the article above could be dangerous.

Here is the relevant extract: ‘Perhaps no other related topic is so rife with garbage on the internet than the seasoning of cast iron pans. It is cancerous with political correctness and completely removed from practicality. I think the worst that I have read was someone selling new pans and (proudly) saying he seasoned them with flax seed oil. Flax seed oil? That is just about the most unstable polyunsaturated oil there is. It is so unstable — read easy to oxidize — one never cooks with it, ever. To subject it to high heat for seasoning can create dangerous compounds and guarantees lousy performance. It is difficult to express just how stupid that is. I’ve also read where people spray a pan with no-stick spray then throw the pan in the oven at 500F for three hours, a pointless expensive exercise that might burn the house down.’

Here is the full article. I haven’t the foggiest notion who is right and who is wrong on this matter, but I thought it worthy of being brought to your attention. – J.B.

HJL Replies: I’m almost embarrassed to admit how we treat our cast iron. We have two pieces that have been handed down at least three generations. The standard procedure is to use whatever oil is at hand– canola(rape seed), olive, lard, butter, whatever. The meal is prepared and then the pan is merely wiped out with a paper towel while still warm. Since the pan is used on a daily basis, it never imparts a bad taste. Occasionally someone will cook something in it that ruins the season or cooks a strong flavored food which requires soap and steel wool to clean. In these cases, it generally has to be re-seasoned and the most common method is to wipe it down with canola oil and heat it on the stove top or oven. We generally just heat it until the oil is right below the point where it smokes and then let it cool down on the stove. About every 5 years or so, we begin to notice a black crud forming on the rim above the level that food is generally at. When it becomes noticeable, I just take the pan out into the yard and use a 100,000 BTU weed burner to heat it to the point that the carbon crud burns off, then let it cool down overnight and re-season it in the morning. There are many who would say that we are abusing our cast iron, but it’s tough to argue with a process and pan that are 100 years old. My wife informs me that making her southern cornbread is an excellent way to keep the skillet seasoned. She pours about 1/4″ of canola oil into the skillet and pre-heats it to 425 degrees before pouring the batter (made without any oil) into the hot oil. The cornbread is then crispy, southern-fried and your skillet is a pleasure to work with.

Letter: Walmart and Augason Emergency Food Supplies

Mr. Rawles,

I don’t know if you know about this, I didn’t. I also don’t know if this is an online only type thing. But, I found Augason emergency food supplies online at walmart.com today. I live 2 hours from the nearest Wal-Mart and 3.5 hours away from the nearest Wal-Mart/Sams SuperCenter. So, maybe they sell these in the store, now. I don’t know. But, for those of us who rely on shipping supplies in, this is news of note. Orders of $50 or more ship free from walmart.com. – B.E.

Economics and Investing:

P. sent in this interesting link about Russia:Russia’s Growing Regional Debts Threaten Stability

o o o

Local governments extending tax breaks to movie production companies is becoming commonplace now; Even to the point where cities and states compete with each other to be the hosting location for the movie company. Several readers sent this link in showing How Leonardo DiCaprio Cost New York Taxpayers $30 Million. HJL Adds: My own city recently released financials showing that in the past year, they hosted four movie productions, giving significant tax breaks to the production companies, with less than $9,000 increased revenue to the local businesses.

o o o

More disturbing news about the Federal Reserve and QE.

Items from The Economatrix:

Life Without Benefits Gets Tougher For Jobless

$90 Cut To Food Stamps For 850,000

Here It Comes – More Leading Economists Call For Capital Controls

1.4 Million Jobless Officially Get The Emergency Claims Axe

Odds ‘n Sods:

JWR was doing some research on concealment from FLIRs and active IR emitters on starlight scopes for his upcoming novel Liberators, and found an interesting post at the Urban Evasion web site.

o o o

Mountainview Off Grid Livingsells 5 gallon buckets of Hard White Wheat and Hard White Wheat. HJL Adds: For those not familiar with the Hard White Wheat, it is a product that has the same moisture and protein as the standard Hard Red Wheat but has a milder flavor. We use it almost exclusively, and you can make a loaf of 100% whole wheat bread that tastes really good. You can also use the Hard White for pastries and lighter breads if you grind it finely. My wife’s favorite biscuit recipe, which she makes weekly, uses 2/3 Hard White and 1/3 bread flour.

o o o

B.B. sent this link reminding us that the unprepared are the ones who are hurt the most in crisis.

o o o

A.W. reported this link showing a comparison to the world in 1914 and 2014: Is the world on the brink of war?

o o o

If you’re a criminal, you probably should be careful who you try to steal from. Here are a couple of links sent in by readers about criminals who weren’t: Businessman Andrew Woodhouse cleared of using unreasonable force against fuel burglars, and MMA fighter Jardine stops mail theft.

o o o

B.P. sent this interesting link about a Supreme Court case that could have far reaching implications on the ability of governement to regulate personal gun transfers.

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“The general sentiment of mankind is that a man who will not fight for himself, when he has the means of doing so, is not worth being fought for by others, and this sentiment is just. For a man who does not value freedom for himself will never value it for others, or put himself to any inconvenience to gain it for others…

The whole history of the progress of human liberty shows that all concessions yet made to her august claims have been born of earnest struggle. The conflict has been exciting, agitating, all-absorbing, and for the time being, putting all other tumults to silence. It must do this or it does nothing. If there is no struggle there is no progress. Those who profess to favor freedom and yet deprecate agitation are men who want crops without plowing up the ground; they want rain without thunder and lightning. They want the ocean without the awful roar of its many waters.

This struggle may be a moral one, or it may be a physical one, and it may be both moral and physical, but it must be a struggle. Power concedes nothing without a demand. It never did and it never will. Find out just what any people will quietly submit to and you have found out the exact measure of injustice and wrong which will be imposed upon them, and these will continue till they are resisted with either words or blows, or with both. The limits of tyrants are prescribed by the endurance of those whom they oppress.”- Frederick Douglass, August 3, 1857, in a speech at Canandaigua, New York

Notes from HJL:

Today we present another entry for Round 50 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $9,700+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.)
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.)
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy.
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225,
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $195.
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304. and
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit.

Second Prize:

  1. A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand,
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589.
  3. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com.
  4. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P .),
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials
  6. A full set of all 26 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is a $270 value,
  7. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
  8. EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  9. Autrey’s Armory — specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts and accessories– is donating a $250 gift certificate, and
  10. Dri-Harvestfoods.comin Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value,
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises.
  6. Mayflower Tradingis donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Productsin North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies. This assortment has a retail value of $208.

Round 50 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Defending Your Neighborhood, By M.M.C. and D.K.

Bugging out to a more defensible location, away from the big cities and the anarchy that will be taking place there, is what everyone talks about. Unfortunately, the vast majority of us do not own or have access to such a redoubt or refuge. Even if we have a place to go to, defending in place in our neighborhood may be the first thing we need to do before setting out on the road. For most of us, a neighborhood defense may be our best hope, especially if the roads are clogged with evacuees just trying to get away from the turmoil. We know that getting boxed in on the road is not good.

Regardless of where you live, the size or shape of your neighborhood, or how many of your neighbors are like-minded, MMC’s advice and instruction comes from decades of proven Marine Corps doctrine on combat and survival. MMC is a U.S. Marine Corps recent retiree with a plethora of skill sets and experience. He has served in Kosovo, Iraq, and Afghanistan during his 20 years of service and spent years training Marines in the art of marksmanship as a Primary Marksmanship Instructor, Combat Marksmanship Instructor, and a Small Arms Weapons Expert Instructor. The planning and execution of these methods revolves around the key words: Defend, Reinforce, Attack, Withdraw, and Delay. This is a time tested method used by the Marine Corps when writing an Operations Order and can be used as a planning tool prior to the action of defending against the enemy threat and for considerations to going on the attack against a potential enemy threat. We will explain these points and show how you can apply them to your unique environment.

Your first step may be to print out a Google Earth satellite image of your neighborhood, with several different magnifications to show surrounding territory, the larger neighborhood, and down to two-block areas. County and municipal road maps will also be needed, as well as your state and adjoining ones. You can make a clear overlay of your neighborhood map to plot out defensive positions and other modifications. Whatever the cause of a “failure of civility” in America (economic collapse, infrastructure, or electromagnetic pulse), government will probably respond with martial law. Our military will be called up to help the overwhelmed civilian law enforcement agencies. They will concentrate on larger cities, protecting key businesses, utilities, medical facilities, and communications. The fiber of our military forces will eventually erode, since opposing American citizens would mean fighting their own people; thus, there will be desertions and resistance to government. Some estimate all forms of law enforcement will collapse within 90 days. Many will join opposition groups, and many will go home to defend their homes and families.

Defend: Protect what we hold dear– family, home, neighborhood, water source, and food supply. Join with other neighbors and families who are equally dedicated to your overall cause. These are like-minded people who intend to protect their families and homes and survive the crisis. The goal is sustainability of what I have and what I cherish. The method is to control the fight. The primary defensive point will be a 360° perimeter around your defensive zone, with an emphasis being placed on the likely approach routes of vehicles and foot traffic. If you have a property that is adjacent to large bodies of water or other terrain features that form natural barriers, concentrate on a solid 180 degree perimeter from that feature. Your defensive zone will cover an area where you are able to engage intruders at the maximum effective range of your weapons, generally 500 meters. You can use terrain features that favor your engagement of the enemy and also limit their engagement of you. Use barbed or concertina wire to block between house areas and other avenues that might be available to the invaders. Trip wires connected to early warning devices, such as shotgun shell alarms and flares, will help alert defenders. Even trip wires attached to tin cans with rocks in them will cause a noise.

A secondary defensive point will be your first fallback fighting positions. The tertiary point is your home itself– your headquarters. If you have a basement, it needs to be turned into a livable area to defend. It has only one way in, the stairwell, which would be a death trap for anyone coming down. Barring a fire, it is a secure area. It’s important to present your tertiary point as a “hard” target, with prepared fighting positions and obvious planning for attacks.

The area beyond your primary position must be cleared to create a “no man’s land” that will enable you to observe anyone approaching your area’s defensive zone. Burn down empty houses and move people back into your key terrain. Knock down chimneys and cut down and burn trees and shrubs. You must create clear fields of fire, allowing invaders no cover and concealment. Eliminate the ability for the enemy to “bound” from point to point and advance on your positions.

Create wide fields of fire that will become wide-open killing fields. An area of burned-down houses will tell invaders that this area has already been picked clean, and there is nothing of value left. Houses that may be left standing should have the appearance of having been already looted. Break windows and spread small furniture and debris on the lawns. Be careful not to create what’s known as Dead Zones; these are areas that cannot be engaged by direct fire weapons because of hard obstruction. Do not give signs of life beyond the burned out zone. Make it look as if it has been picked clean, but beware that you could be creating a defensive position for your enemy. Make improvements on your defensive positions daily by reevaluating, upgrading, and inspecting from the intruder’s point of view as well as your own. Harden all positions by adding logs, sandbags, and boulders.

  • Key terrain is all ground and structural features of your immediate and extended neighborhoods. Keep your defense area small if you are a small group of people. The larger the group the more you can expand your defense.
    • Evaluate your immediate home structure. Choose which windows will be used as fire ports. The inside wall areas beneath and alongside the windows can be reinforced with sandbags. Purchase at least 100 sandbags. They can be filled with sand or dirt, not gravel. If shot, gravel can become a secondary projectile.
    • Evaluate your neighbors’ homes for defensive positions inside and outside.
    • Survivability is fortifying everything from your primary position to your tertiary position and improving obstacles that you’ve placed.
  • Observation of fields of fire
    • Defensive positions, including windows, must allow overlapping fields of fire– the left-to-right area in front of your weapon. This will create mutually-supporting coverage of defensive fire. Mark the left and right limits with stakes, spray paint, ribbons, or tape. Shooting beyond these limits will endanger your defenders with friendly fire.
    • This must be done for primary, secondary, and tertiary defensive positions, and everyone must be familiar with the limits.
  • Cover and concealment
    • For cover, use natural objects, such as trees, stumps, boulders, solid fences and walls, and buildings corners.
    • Supplementary fighting positions can be created by digging in. Create small “spider holes” for one person to fire from, larger two-person fighting positions, and trenches to hold several people. Throw and pack excavation dirt along the outward defensive edge or lay sandbags on the expected enemy approach side. The more dirt there is the better.
  • Avenue of approach
    • Put yourself in your enemy’s mind. People, in general, are lazy and will pick the easiest path to or through your neighborhood.
    • Eliminate access points to your street so that there is only one avenue of approach or entry point by vehicles, and no easy paths for people on foot.
    • Topple trees to block roads and trails.
    • Use natural bends or curves in your one avenue of approach as choke points, where a vehicle must slow down. Create a serpentine blockade to prevent a vehicle from blasting through, using trees, boulders, steel spike (nail) boards, and vehicles.
    • Secure a regress path for your escape. Don’t use roads or organized trails, and don’t establish regular paths to caches; make yourself less vulnerable. Make your own overland route and use natural obstacles to discourage your enemy and/or allow defensive positions for yourself.
    • If the enemy approaches in a staggered column or other formation or uses hand and arm signals, it may indicate they have some military training, and may have more than average capabilities.

Reinforce:

  • Move your personnel to the point of attack to repel invading force, while keeping flanks and rear covered.
  • Preposition ammunition for ease of resupply.
  • The key to reinforcement is being able to maintain your mobility for resupply, counter attack, casualty evacuation, and withdrawing, while denying your enemy the ability of counter-mobility towards your positions. Do not allow the enemy to be able to redeploy, flank, envelop (encircle), or fight from your rear.

Attack:

“The best defense is a good offense,” is a term used in football and in military theory. Put the attacker on the defense and upset their plans, creating fear, disorder, and confusion by your aggressive response. Time allows them to fortify and reorganize.

  • As soon as the enemy appears to be regrouping or the fighting lulls, attack. The ability to counterattack is pivotal.
  • Take cover or concealment and advance on the enemy. Rehearse and understand “support by fire” positions, with some firing while others are moving to engage. Keep the enemy fixed in location and head down, unable to return fire. “Massing fire” goes along with “support by fire”, concentrating several weapons toward one point.
  • Gain fire superiority by massing fire toward a location. The key to remember on any type of attack is violence of action and fire superiority will win every time. Whoever has superiority is going to be able to maneuver toward the objective. Those who are being repressed with fire will die.

Withdraw:

  • If faced with a powerful force that cannot be stopped or routed, you must withdraw to survive.
  • Pull back to your secondary positions first, and if the situation does not change, fall back to your tertiary– “last stand” point.
  • If all else fails, you must abandon your home(s).
  • Successful withdrawal requires a delay or diversion to stall the enemy, such as exploding pre-placed liquid propane gas containers. Advanced planning for an orderly withdrawal is critical.
  • A pre-planned signal will initiate the withdrawal.

Delay:

  • Allow your force time to retire to safer area. Lay down suppressing fire against the enemy to make them seek cover. This will prevent them from seeing the escape route and your departing forces.
  • The route of withdrawal must be pre-planned.
  • The lead element, noncombatants, are allowed time to reach an established safe zone and cache rally point 3.5 miles away. The covering force delays and bounds back 200 meters at a time with hasty positions.
  • Repeat this procedure until you reach your safe zone.
  • Conserve energy and resources as much as possible.

Throughout your planning and actions, be aware of the “OODA loop,” conceived by USAF Col. John Boyd. The OODA loop is a process of decision-making, which occurs in a repeating cycle of observe-orient-decide-act. If you can mentally process this cycle faster than your enemy, you will be able to get “inside” the enemy’s decision process and gain the advantage. This loop must be kept in continual operation during any combat situation.

  • Observe: Take in the raw information of the situation.
  • Orient: Pull from training and life experiences of similar events.
  • Decide: Choose what course of action you will take. Is it go or no-go?
  • Act: Make your move faster and before your opponent can figure out your actions.

By cycling this process faster than your enemy, you will obscure your intentions and seem “unpredictable” to your opposition.

Two Letters Re: LDS Buying Experience

Dear Hugh,

My online purchases of canned food from the LDS typically arrive within a week via FedX. The most recent purchase this month for 2 cases, showed a shipping cost of $3, no tax. Before it was always free shipping. -J.S.

—

Dear SurvivalBlog,

Regarding the local LDS store, as stated, they have stopped selling the large bulk items and no longer hold canning sessions. That being said, they do have a warehouse full of the prepackaged #10 cans/cases for purchase of pretty much all the items they used to carry in bulk. The prices can be found on the LDS website “Provident Living” . We are not affiliated with the LDS, but visit frequently and have always been treated with respect and kindness. We consider this the best buy in town. – Nick

Letter Re: Massive Non-Compliance on Rifle and Hi-Cap Mag Registration in Connecticut

Dear Sir;

Regarding the news article linked in the January 23rd blog relating to the massive non-compliance with Connecticut’s “Assault Weapon” and “Large Capacity Magazine” registration mandate, I know from first hand experience that many of the firearms are being removed from the state in lieu of registration. They are being removed to friends homes, BOL’s, and other places of refuge. I expect that when the thaw comes even more will be buried (the merits of such action notwithstanding). The primary reason that I was given by people resorting to such action was for their families safety- they feel that when the government raids their homes that their wives and children will be targeted.

The type of people I know who are personally affected by this law are typical gun owners- hard working, law abiding, family centered men of above average moral character and patriotic feelings. I only hope that non-compliance does not destroy their lives and families, and that their resistance is not futile. – Willard

Economics and Investing:

H.L. sent this item: Oil Set to Rocket. HJL Adds: This sounds interesting. My concern is the statement: “The oil companies will be raking it in…” I’ve heard this before and it smacks of the 1% talk. The oil companies may make a pretty good profit, but nowhere near as good as some other companies.

I have been receiving a large number of submissions regarding income inequality, usually describing that the top 1% now have as much as one half the world’s wealth. It seems repugnant at first, but it’s important to note that this concept is based on an incorrect reading of data and statistics. Here are a few links I pulled up refuting that assertion: The Income Inequality Myth, 6 Myths About Income Inequality In America, and Myths About Income Inequality In America and Occupy Wall Street is Wrong. It’s important to understand that when a person creates wealth, they are not taking more of the pie from you; they are actually creating a bigger pie. It’s really only government that forcibly takes from you.

On the other hand, 40% unemployment is a disturbing trend. This was sent in by an anonymous reader.

Items from The Economatrix:

IMF Warns of Deflation Risk

World Bank: Global Economy At A Turning Point

This Is What A Central Bank Losing Control Looks Like

Odds ‘n Sods:

For those wondering how we will keep our baby chicks warm, Cheryl sends in this link showing the incandescent light bulb may live a bit longer.

o o o

T.P. sent in a link about Oven Canning for those who might like to try it.

o o o

For those who love to cook with cast iron cookware, like me, J.K. sent in this line on the Chemistry of Cast Iron Seasoning and also Perfect Popovers.

o o o

Several readers have sent in links showing that Smith & Wesson and Ruger will cease selling in California. HJL Adds: At least in S&W’s case, they will only stop selling those products required to be micro-stamped. Products not requiring the microstamp will still be marketed.

o o o

If you’re going to keep chickens in a restricted area, perhaps a rooster isn’t a good idea. White Settlement woman fights to keep backyard chickens sent in by R.

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“When the people therefore saw that Jesus was not there, neither his disciples, they also took shipping, and came to Capernaum, seeking for Jesus. And when they had found him on the other side of the sea, they said unto him, Rabbi, when camest thou hither?

Jesus answered them and said, Verily, verily, I say unto you, Ye seek me, not because ye saw the miracles, but because ye did eat of the loaves, and were filled.

Labour not for the meat which perisheth, but for that meat which endureth unto everlasting life, which the Son of man shall give unto you: for him hath God the Father sealed.

Then said they unto him, What shall we do, that we might work the works of God?

Jesus answered and said unto them, This is the work of God, that ye believe on him whom he hath sent.” – John 6:24-29 (KJV)

Notes from HJL:

—–

Today we present another entry for Round 50 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $9,700+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.)
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.)
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy.
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225,
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $195.
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304. and
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit.

Second Prize:

  1. A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand,
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589.
  3. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com.
  4. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P .),
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials
  6. A full set of all 26 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is a $270 value,
  7. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
  8. EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  9. Autrey’s Armory — specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts and accessories– is donating a $250 gift certificate, and
  10. Dri-Harvestfoods.comin Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value,
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises.
  6. Mayflower Tradingis donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Productsin North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies. This assortment has a retail value of $208.

Round 50 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum , and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Getting Started in Prepping, By Jared B.

As a survivalist/prepper, I hear a lot of, “I don’t want to be a prepper, but I want to be prepared. What should I do? How do I start?” So I compiled a lot of information from FEMA, Red Cross, and other places that have very “basic” information and started typing up a list for them. The four “basic” areas I decided would be a good starting point: getting your whole family involved, what to do before an emergency, what to do after an emergency, and emergency sanitation. I say “basic” because this is only a starting point! This by no means is all you should do. If you think it is because the government will step in … I feel sorry for you. I tell this to everyone I give this information to and encourage them to research more and be ready for when “it” happens because you won’t be able to find me in my secure well stocked locations.
So, here is the list I compiled:

  1. Get your whole family involved:
    • Build your first aid kit with the whole family.
      • They might think of something that needs to go in there that you don’t.
      • Make it an activity to decorate and build your emergency kit.
        • While you are decorating it. Make sure that everyone is familiar with what it looks like and where it is located.
        • If there are items missing, make it an activity with kids to hunt for those items around the house.
        • Remember to review your kit’s contents regularly.
          • Make sure that medications, batteries, identification, food, and any other items are up to date.
        • Recommended list of items:
          • 2 copies of your family emergency plan. ( Always have a backup just in case)
          • Personal identification for each family member.
          • Minimum of $20 cash. (Have different denominations. Coins will come in handy if you need to use a payphone, snack/drink machine, or for other vending items.
          • Extra copies of family health records, list of prescriptions, and insurance papers.
          • First-aid kit and manual. (Not everyone will know first aid or remember it in a stressful situation. The manual will help refresh your memory.
          • Prescription and nonprescription medicines for at least 3 days, and an extra pair of eyeglasses or contact lenses.
          • Three gallons of water per person. (At least one gallon of water per day. Don’t forget to add extra water for pets and if even more if you plan on using freeze dried food.)
          • Three day supply of ready-to-eat nonperishable foods and a manual can opener, since you may not have power or the means to start a fire.
          • Battery-powered or hand-cranked radio; there may be broadcasts of what is happening or time frames on when help may arrive.
          • Flashlight and extra batteries. Make sure to test the flashlight regularly. Batteries do expire and should be swapped out when needed. If possible look into a solar powered or hand crank flashlight.
          • Tools. They can be used to turn off utilities, fix or secure areas, and to help get in and out of places. Don’t underestimate the power of a hammer.
          • Personal hygiene items, such as liquid soap, shampoo, lotions, and ointments. They may not seem important until you don’t have them.
          • One comfort item per child (and adult, if needed). This can be a teddy bear or soft blanket that will help calm them down.
          • Pet supplies, including food, water, pet carrier, collar, and leash.
        • Additional items to consider if you are building a Bug-out-Bag:
          • Whistle to signal for help. If you are separated from your group, you will appreciate this item. It also works great in back country settings.
          • Spare set of keys to your car and house. If you are like me and lose your keys a lot, this will save you time when you are in a rush.
          • Local maps in case your current location and the main streets become unsafe.
          • Paper cups and plates, and plastic utensils. Light weight ones are preferred, if you need to leave.
          • Blankets or sleeping bags. These should be light weight but not cheap. You may need to sleep in less than ideal conditions where staying warm can save your life. Exposure is not only dangerous, it can be deadly.
          • Moist towelettes and/or hand washing gel. You may have to stay moving and these items will help you sanitize on the run.
          • Plastic trash bags. There are too many uses to name.
          • Change of clothing, rain gear, and sturdy shoes for each family member. Make sure the shoes are broken-in and worn properly; blisters are not your friend. You will also want to wash your clothes to avoid mold, bacteria, and any other hitchhikers. Rain gear can also double as shelter.
          • Sunscreen and insect repellent. You may be forced into an area where you are exposed to the elements with little to no cover. A spider bite or bad sunburn could be extremely dangerous.
          • Additional items for party members may include paper, crayons, books, and travel-size games. These items will help the party stay calm and relaxed.
          • Special items for infants and/or the elderly. Small toys, nonperishable snacks, a cane, and/or a hearing aid may be quite important. A binky to stop a baby from crying can be just as important as an elderly person’s cane. Overlooking these items can cause problems for everyone in the group.
    • Plan together:
      • Build your family emergency plan with your family. This will not only help everyone remember what it is but will ensure nothing is overlooked.
      • Use planning time to help explain the different type of emergencies.
        • Everyone has drills at school and work, but what about home. If a fire alarm goes off at school, kids know what that schools drill is. What about when it goes off at home and the parent is in the restroom? What about when there is no alarm, and there are loud noises outside? Going over these different situations and what to do will help you practice them later.
        • Explain that sirens and lights mean that there is an emergency and help is on the way. Going over the different sirens, lights, and alarms will help everyone understands the surrounding noises and can help calm them down.
      • Make sure that everyone knows the emergency meeting place, if you are not home. Phone lines might be down and you have no way to contact your family. Make sure that if you have a child in daycare, you know the emergency plan there and where they go in an evacuation.
      • Reach out to your trusted friends, neighbors, and emergency workers. If your house is inaccessible, make sure your family knows that these places are safe.
    • Practice makes perfect.
      • You may think that your spouse, parents, or teenagers know what to do, but putting them to the test is the best way to make sure everyone is prepared. Make it part of a monthly ritual. You wake up early and set off the alarms and tell everyone that there is a certain type of emergency and then go through the motions. After, spend the day together and talk about it while doing something the family enjoys. Having a ritual will help everyone remember what to do without having to think about it. Play games with your family to keep their memory fresh. Make a scavenger hunt with meeting spots or a matching game with family members and their phone numbers.
  2. What to do BEFORE an Emergency:
    • Safeguard your home.
      • Check for potential hazards. Get appropriate insurance coverage.
      • Bolt or strap down top heavy objects, such as bookshelves, water heaters, and gas appliances.
      • Check electrical connections and gas pipes for faulty joints.
      • Place heavy objects on lower shelves.
      • Securely fasten shelving to the walls.
      • Store glass vases, china, and other breakables in low or closed cabinets or drawers.
      • Be sure your home is anchored firmly to its foundation and structurally safe.
      • Keep properly rated and tagged fire extinguishers on hand and learn how to use them properly.
      • Store copies of important documents in a safe place away from home.
      • Keep matches and lighters out of reach of children.
      • Remove hazardous objects from sleeping areas. These might include mirrors, bookshelves, and hanging plants.
      • Properly store flammable liquids and gases in proper locations.
      • Locate potential fire hazards and reduce their potential.
    • Implement preventative safety measures for you and your family.
      • Know where and how to shut off gas, propane, water, and electricity.
      • Work out a meeting plan for disasters.
        • Discuss responsibilities for each family member .
        • Remember to be flexible.
        • Practice occasional drills.
      • Find out community evacuation plans; learn them for your home, work, school, and other locations. Remember that you may not be able to use vehicles.
      • Have a complete home storage of necessities, including water, food, sanitary needs, and fuel.
      • Have a 72 hour kit that is always easily accessible.
      • Keep a flashlight/light stick, quick dress clothes, extra shoes, and glasses by your bed.
      • Have a first aid kit and know how to use it.
      • Learn basic first aid and CPR.
      • Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors and test them regularly.
      • Have an out-of-state emergency contact for everyone to check in with.
      • Learn local emergency warnings and what they mean.
    • Have your home inspected for compliance with current codes.
  3. What to do AFTER an Emergency:
    • Prepare for aftershocks, if earthquake related.
    • Check for injuries and give first aid. Do not move persons with serious injuries unless they are in immediate danger of further injury.
    • Turn on a radio or television to get the latest official information from authorities. Note the location of emergency shelters.
    • If you need medical aid, food, water, or clothes, go to your local Red Cross stations.
    • Check your utilities for damage.
      • If you smell gas, turn it off at the meter. Open doors and windows to air out the gas. Extinguish any flames and leave the building.
      • If you suspect damage to the electricity, turn it off at the main switch or breakers. Do not touch downed lines or broken appliances until power to them is cut.
      • If water pipes are broken, turn water off at the main shut-off valve.
      • Before using toilets, make sure sewer lines are intact.
    • Use caution when cleaning up breaks or spills.
    • Do not tie up telephone or cell phone lines unless it is an emergency.
    • Cover broken glass to prevent injury.
    • Take wet wooden furniture outside to dry, but not in direct sunlight.
    • Leave buildings that have been moderately or severely damaged until they are made safe. Check structural members before entering a flood or mud damaged building.
    • Stay away from flood waters if possible.
      • They may be contaminated.
      • They may be electrically charged.
      • Moving water can sweep you away, even if it is shallow.
    • Be aware of where flood waters recede. Drive only when necessary. Roads can be weakened and may collapse under vehicle weight.
    • Do not use elevators, even if they are working.
    • Treat all water properly before consumption.
    • Do not use fireplaces until they are checked and certified for damage.
    • Do not go sightseeing.
  4. Emergency Sanitation:
    • After a disaster, water and sewage lines may be disrupted, and you may need to improvise emergency sanitation facilities.
    • Supplies: (Always have basic sanitation supplies on hand.)
      • Medium-sized plastic bucket with a tight lid.
      • Heavy-duty plastic garbage bags and ties.
      • Household chlorine bleach.
      • Soap, liquid detergent.
      • Toilet paper.
      • Towelettes.
    • How to build a makeshift toilet: If sewage lines are broken but the toilet bowl is usable, place a garbage bag inside the bowl. If the toilet is completely backed up, make your own. Line a medium-sized bucket with a garbage bag, and make a toilet seat out of 2 boards placed parallel to each other across the bucket. An old toilet seat will work as well.
    • How to sanitize waste: After each use, pour a disinfectant, such as bleach, into the container. This will help avoid infection and stop the spread of disease. Cover the container tightly when not in use.
    • How to dispose of waste:
      • Bury garbage and human waste to avoid the spread of disease by rats and insects. Dig a pit 2-3 feet deep and at least 50 feet downhill or away from any well, spring or water supply.
      • If the garbage cannot be buried immediately, strain any liquids into the emergency toilet. Wrap the residue in several layers of newspapers and store it in a large can with a tight-fitting lid. Place the can outside until it can be buried.
    • Water substitutes and water-preserving solutions for cleansing: (Keeping clean is essential to good health.)
      • Because water is so precious and should be reserved for drinking purposes, consider soap and water alternatives for washing the body, such as:
        • Rubbing alcohol,
        • Lotions containing alcohol,
        • Shaving lotion.
        • Face creams and lotions. and
        • Towelettes.
      • Wash cloths. Use a wet wash cloth to clean teeth, wash face, comb hair, and wash your body.
      • Makeshift shower. Use a spray bottle to shower.
    • Disinfectants: The best choice is a solution of one part liquid chlorine bleach to ten parts water. Other commercial disinfectants include HTH, or calcium hypochlorite, which is available at swimming pool supply stores, and powered, chlorinated lime, which is available at building supply stores.
    • Intestinal Ailments:
      • Consuming contaminated water and food can cause diarrhea, poisoning, and intestinal diseases. Protect against diseases.
        • Keep body, hands, and utensils used for cooking and eating clean.
        • Use proper plates or eat from the original food containers, if water is not available for washing dishes.
        • Wash and peel all fruits and vegetables.
        • Keep all food in covered containers.
        • Prepare only as much as will be eaten at each meal.
      • Controlling rodents and insects:
        • Keep living area clear of debris, garbage, refuse, and body wastes.
        • When possible, repair holes to keep out rodents.
        • Household insecticides will work in small and enclosed areas.
    • Sanitation Equipment: We are in this together. If one person gets this wrong, the whole neighborhood is at risk for disease. You are not prepared until your neighbor is prepared. When electricity stops, water stops, the disease begins. More people die from these diseases than from the disasters!
      • Make an Evacuation Sanitation Kit. You will need it before you need meals or shelter! Get your attitudes right and prepare in a way that “you KNOW that you know how” and your family knows these skills because you have been taught and practiced. Keep your hands away from your mouth and teach others to do the same.
        • For short term toilet needs, use a 5 gallon bucket with a toilet seat. Use heavy bags to hold the human refuse so that you can store them or carry contents to your yard and bury it. Cover contents with 6 inches of soil. If you use cat litter or a chemical toilet, don’t bury waste in your garden.
        • Heavy rubber gloves, a shovel, household bleach, vinyl disposable gloves, and a bucket to collect urine separately.
        • Fly swatters and fly paper can be used by adults. You will want to stay free of flies and mosquitoes that land on refuse. Use insect repellents and netting over babies, beds, and heads. Wear long sleeves and wash hands often.
        • Use liquid soap if possible. It is more sanitary than bar soaps. You want ethyl alcohol, which is absorbed through the skin. Purell is toxic to the liver. Dawn dish soap is liked. Fill empty bottles with water so you have instant wash water with a squirt.
        • Grape Seed Extract (GSE) kills all germs on hands, food surfaces, raw meat, toothbrushes, and external wounds. For Dysentery, use four drops in a swallow of water to relieve symptoms within 30 minutes. It tastes bitter though.
        • Fire is a tool because you can sanitize water in metal cooking pots. Fire tools & matches are a necessity.
        • Laundry tools help keep you clean. Use detergent that has no fillers. Some people like Amway SA8. Clothes lines and clothes pins are needed to dry clothes in sun.
        • Toilet paper will be appreciated. Bury used paper as bio-hazard product. You can use old phone books cut in thirds. Crumpling paper before using makes it softer. If paper is not available use Peri bottles and rags that are then washed and boiled to sterilize.
        • Diapers– disposable or cloth. Using throw away diaper liners makes it easier. Babies have not always worn diapers. Eskimos held babies inside their parka and held them out to go. Google natural infant hygiene or infant elimination communication.
        • Feminine hygiene needs may include Diva Cup, Moon Cup, and Keeper as catchers. Europe uses them. Or make flannel pads and have plastic and underwear. Google “glad rags”. Women might also want to know about lady j or whiz free in order to separate urine from solid human waste. (weight issue)

I won’t say that this is the end because it should be the beginning of your never-ending, always changing list. I hope that you learned something or at least enjoyed this “basic” refresher. As always, watch your back… no one else is!

Two Letters Re: Glock 27 .40 S&W Pistol

Dear Sir,
I just wanted to point out something that many folks may not be aware of regarding the Glock pistols. I own several and they usually are my “go to” pistol. I carry a Glock 27 regularly. I recommend to my friends and family, if the Glock is their choice of pistols, to only buy the .40 caliber models. When you buy a Glock .40 (22, 23, or 27) you now have the option of purchasing a drop in barrel in 9mm or .357 Sig and having the flexibility to use the ammo that you are able to find in any of these three designations. One gun, three calibers! Believe it or not, the magazines are even interchangeable! I realize that for the ultimate in reliability, one should purchase 9mm magazines when shooting 9mm ammunition, but I have never had a failure using the .40 magazines loaded with 9mm. The .357 Sig uses .40 caliber magazines as they are identical. Of course all of the appropriate warnings regarding using the correct ammunition should be mentioned. It is my understanding that if one were to purchase any of the 9mm Glocks, (17, 19, or 26) they are NOT able to simply change barrels and shoot .40 or .357 Sig. This being the case, I cannot think of a good reason NOT to start with the .40 caliber Glocks in order to obtain such flexibility in a time when ammuinition availability becomes troubling. Blessings to you and yours! – C.P

—

Pat,
Nice review of a great gun. Something else to add: If someone is torn between the 9mm G26 versus the G27, I highly recommend buying the 27 and then purchasing a Storm Lake or Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel. Now you have two guns for the price of a barrel and 9mm magazines, which are the same size as the 40 caliber magazines. Extreme versatility; you can carry the G27 40 caliber and come home, swap out the .40 barrel for a 9mm barrel, push in the Glock factory 33 round mag with a magazine sleeve and have a 34 round 9mm home defense gun! – M.K.