Getting A Real Education– Why Becoming Self-Sufficient Is Better Than Going To College, by D.T.

Everywhere you turn experts are predicting that the world is heading into some very troubling times. At every level, they say we are heading into a period of history that will see major upheavals in economics, politics, education, food production, housing, jobs, and basically everything. These major changes will effect everyone on earth. That is why so many people are trying to prepare for these changes before they happen in full force, and most experts agree the best way to prepare to meet the challenges of living in this kind of future is to have a skills-based education rather than following the traditional model of theory-based education.

That is why it is better to learn to become self-sufficient rather than spend your precious time and money going to college, at least for now. In fact, if you follow this alternate path of education, in order to be best prepared for the new reality, in four years time you will be well on the way to financial independence; you’ll also be healthier, have a nest-egg to invest, and have well-developed multiple skills. You will be at least a decade ahead of your high school pals who went directly to college.

Recent college graduates are looking at spending the next 10 to 15 years of their lives working just to pay off the Federal student loans they took out to pay for their expensive college educations. Graduating into an economy that has 25% unemployment for college grads, most are not finding jobs in their chosen field of study and instead are consigned to work that pays $10 an hour or less. Is there any wonder why so many are forced to move back into the homes of their parents? It is currently estimated that fully 1/3 of college grads are living at home with Mom and Dad. How can they afford to live on their own and have an apartment, as well as pay for rent, utilities, food, transportation, and still have a life, when student loans must begin being repaid immediately after graduation?

According to CNN, in 2012 the average student loan debt is $29,400 and is expected to take 10 to 15 years to repay. By the time the loans are paid off, current college graduates will be entering middle age. How will many of them ever be able to save enough to pay for a home of their own, marry, or have children, let alone afford a new car and have any extra disposable income to pay for vacations, dining out, movies, or pursuing hobbies?

Here’s what you should be doing during the next four years, to be better prepared to meet the emerging “New Realty”:

  1. Learn to find or create a job to earn money,
  2. Negotiate a place to live until you can move into your own home,
  3. Plan how to invest the money you are saving,
  4. Learn to grow food,
  5. Learn to buy real estate, and
  6. Develop multiple means of income. (I will explain this later on.)

The goal of accomplishing the list above is to:

  1. Work and save as much as you can,
  2. Find a property you can purchase with some of your savings to own it free and clear,
  3. Learn to garden or provide other legitimate means to drastically reduce your grocery costs,
  4. Develop your property to its highest and best purpose, which will enable you to be financially free,
  5. Having accomplished all this, you will have learned multiple skills and the means to provide yourself and others with food and shelter. This will give you more choices, and allow you to become financially free, while you are still able to enjoy it.

The best way to accomplish all of this is to think of it as your “real education” and to commit to working your plan for four years as if you were attending college, only this is your practical education. Without a real commitment to accomplishing each step of the plan, you won’t reap the benefits it will deliver. So resolve right now to commit to the process.

Committing to the process means you will not allow yourself to be sidetracked! There will be many who will want to sidetrack you. You will have to discipline yourself to stay focused on the prize of becoming financially free and not let anyone talk or shame you out of it. Don’t listen to the naysayers or those who love to poke holes in your dreams. They only do this because they don’t have what it takes to accomplish it. So, rather than watching you suffer while you get there and accomplish something great through sacrifice and self-discipline, they will do all they can to bring you down and get you to abandon the idea altogether. Don’t allow this to happen! Commit to the work, do the work, and stay focused on the goal!

At the end of your real education you will:

  1. Be living in a home that you own free and clear, eliminating major housing costs,
  2. Be able to save more money by growing your own food,
  3. Be healthier, because you’ve been eating healthier food instead of the GMO’d food sold in the grocery stores,
  4. Be able to have a nest-egg to invest,
  5. Be in a position to help others, financially and materially,
  6. Possess the real skills needed to successfully meet the challenges of an uncertain future, and
  7. Ultimately have more choices and greater control over your life!

Step One– Learn to Find or Create a Job

Let’s assume you just graduated from high school. Your immediate task will be to get a job to earn money. It may seem to be a hard thing to do, given that many of you are living in households where parent(s) are having trouble finding work! However, you have more options in job selection then they do, because you can afford to not be picky.

Some of the best jobs are the jobs nobody wants. Jobs, such as working as a dishwasher at a restaurant, or cleaning rooms at a motel, or being a farm or ranch hand might be available to you. In fact, some of the least sought-after jobs can be the best ways to achieve your four-year goal. How’s that? Well, there are jobs that will pay you money, in addition to providing you with room and board. An example is being a farm or ranch hand. Many farms and ranches need workers who can do the manual labor required on a farm or ranch, such as milking the cows, mending the fences, feeding and watering livestock, stacking the hay bales, driving the machinery, tending the chickens, and gathering eggs. According to estimates released by the Bureau of Labor Statistics, farm animal caretakers, such as ranch hands, earned an average wage of $11.56 an hour (as of 2012). Many ranches include giving workers a free place to sleep and all meals. Some ranchers may adjust pay to their workers to cover these items, but because good hands are very hard to find and keep, wages remain competitive. Since you won’t have to pay for room and board, you can save all the money you earn.

Do the math: Figuring a 30-hour work week, and after all taxes and FICA taken off your wages, at the end of four years, you could save $40,000–$60,000.

What if you want to stay closer to home? The best jobs are the ones that will pay you more, based on your own effort, sooner rather than later. Being a wait person at a restaurant is one such job. Food service type jobs, where you wait on tables and take orders, pay at least minimum wage as a base income, but when you give great service with a smile, you can earn tips from your customers that will boost your earnings! If you work where the minimum wage is $8 an hour and you work 30 hours a week, that equals $240 a week, but you could average tips of an additional $10 an hour more.

Do the math: Base wages are $8 an hour plus approximately $10 more per hour for tips equals $18 an hour equals $540 a week equals $2322 gross wages a month. After state, local, and federal taxes are taken off your pay, at the end of four years you could save $60,000-$90,000!

What If You Can’t Find Work?

If you can’t find a job, then create a job for yourself. Here are a few ideas: There is always a need for someone who can clean houses, clean and re-organize garages, do yard work like mowing lawns, trimming bushes, picking up yard debris. Are you good in math? Then hire yourself out as a math tutor. You can earn more money by organizing a Math Tutor class, with two to four students in each class.

Another way to go is to find things people don’t want and sell them to people who do want them, making a profit for you through the transaction. I’ve heard of people making a very good living finding broken things, repairing them, and then putting them up on Craigslist and selling them. If you are a gear head and can do oil changes or auto tune-ups, advertise in the Nickle Ad Shopper or Penny Saver newspapers, and offer to do these services at people’s homes, instead of them coming to you. If you charge less than what retail outlets charge for this service, your phone will be ringing!

Offer to babysit, pet sit, farm animal sit, or plant sit. Offer to clean the bathrooms at every gas station in town and get them under contract for this service. Do it for $20 a week. You can earn an extra $100-$200 a week! Offer to deliver food for several restaurants. Do it for 15% of the total order. Many times you will get an extra tip at the door when you deliver the meals!

Can you sew on a sewing machine? Offer to re-size clothes, do minor repairs, and alterations. Sew hems on cut-off jeans, or make long-sleeved shirts into short-sleeved ones.

If you can create simple websites, offer your services to new businesses. You can get the list of all the new businesses who registered and paid their license fees with the city. Just call City Hall to get the list. Then contact each new business owner and pitch them your service. Offer to keep the cost under $300. (Most new businesses can’t afford pricey websites.) Just keep it simple and classy. Then make sure you deliver the website on time and for the price agreed to. Do a good job, and you will get favorable word of mouth advertising and a lot more experience. This will lead to more jobs and more earnings.

One job you create is better than no job at all! Of course, while you work your created job, keep looking for full-time work. Eventually you will get hired.

Where Will You Live?

While you are looking for a job, talk with your parents about continuing to live at home. Offer to pay rent each month or to help with more housework in payment for room and board. It’s vital you negotiate a fair but cheap rent! Remember you are saving every penny you earn above your living expenses. Whatever you agree to do, do it! If you negotiated a lower rent in exchange for doing more housework and you don’t do the housework, then you are simply practicing being a liar. Pay attention boys! Boys are particularly notorious about promising to keep the room clean and then, due to laziness, end up trying to schmooz Mom or Sis to do it for you. It’s time to grow up and start doing what you say you will! It’s great practice for your first paying job.

What If I Know What I Want to Do?

If you know what you want to learn to do, then try to find ways to save money there, too. For example, if you are a gear head and you want to become an auto mechanic, then offer to work for a Master Mechanic as a shop gopher to start. Try to work as many hours a week as possible, even if for minimum wage. You can learn to become a mechanic very fast being essentially a paid apprentice. Don’t immediately think to attend a turn-key college that will teach you to be a mechanic, because those types of colleges, while every bit as valid, are still expensive and make more money off you as a student, if they can get you in by Federal Student Loans. That means more heavy debt for you. Don’t go there! Get in as a gopher-worker-apprentice somewhere with a Master Mechanic and save the tuition. You’ll be paid to learn.

Same thing works with wanting to be a chef. Offer to start as a dishwasher at a restaurant. Always be on time. Always be a conscientious employee. Then progress to food prep and side dishes. Observe the head chef and every one under him or her. Ask questions. Show an interest. People love to share what they love with others who are interested! You will learn to be a chef in four years or less this way. Why pay a culinary academy $25,000 a school year when you can be paid to learn the same things?

How many other professions can you think of where you can be a paid apprentice while you learn the trade? Apprentices can work in heating & air conditioning, electrician, plumbing, home building and remodeling, printing press operator and quick copying, meat processing, commercial delivery-driving, and commercial driving a long haul truck. If you want to design clothes, offer to make the costumes for the local theater production. There are so many ways to gain experience! Experience leads to higher paid work.

What if you can’t get into a trade apprenticeship? Then create a job! Don’t be idle. There are many ways to earn money, if you are willing to do the work. Be creative in thinking up ways to earn money while costing next to nothing to start. Try window washing. It costs almost nothing for buckets, squeegees, and window cleaner– $3 total at a dollar store. Use free newspapers to dry the window once cleaned. Start on a street filled with businesses, and go store to store. At each store, offer to do all their windows for $20 dollars. Even if it takes you an hour to do the windows at each store, that is only 5 hours a day of work for a full-time income.

Tell them you want to come back each week (or every other week) to clean the windows again. Try to pick up five customers a day, who will be repeat customers. At $20 a store, that equals $100 a day and $500 a week in profit. This is a gross income of $26,000 a year! You should be able to save at least $20,000 of this each year. In four years that will be $80,000. There are many communities where this amount will more than pay for a house. Ask yourself, are you willing to clean windows for four short years so that you can buy a house free and clear?

You might decide that you want to reach your four-year goal in three years. That may mean working more than one job. Do whatever it takes, and stay focused and committed! If you can earn money while learning a trade, go for it! If you can earn money while also being given free room and board, go for it! The money you save will help you achieve your goal that much faster!

I’ve Got My Housing, Food, and Job(s) Squared Away. Now What?

This is where it gets really fun.

When you get your first paycheck, sit down and do some figuring. Take your paycheck and figure out what you will earn per month. Then deduct for your room and board, if you have to pay for this. Allow a little bit as fun money, but when I say “little” I mean it! If you have a car, budget for the gasoline for the car, to get you to and from work. Once all of your obligations are written down including your fun money, deduct them from your net monthly pay. What’s left is what you are going to save, religiously and without fail, each and every week.

Check out all the local banks and credit unions and decide which one is the best for you, with respect to opening and managing a personal account. Research the costs involved. Is there a minimum balance required? What are their bank fees and debit card and overdraft fees? Credit unions usually have less fees for their members. Once you have decided which financial institution to use, go there and open an account. This is something to do in person. Introduce yourself to the banker. Get his or her business card. This will be a valuable relationship to you, especially in just a few more years when you buy your real estate property. They’re not for you to borrow any money from but to use as references. So, get to know them now. Often, in large real estate transactions, using bankers as references can help you. Keep the business cards and make note when someone gets promoted at the bank or someone new is hired. Always introduce yourself to the new people and get their business card. Cultivate these business relationships!

I advise you open only a savings account at first. Checking accounts are too easy to tap, and once you start tapping that money, the faster you lose everything you’ve saved. This is going to be a real test of how self-disciplined you are. This is the time in your life to master money. The sooner you do this, the better for your financial future. Seriously, don’t be tempted to blow the money on a depreciating asset. (A depreciating asset is one that loses value over time, like a car or motorcycle.) And for heaven’s sake, DO NOT buy anything on credit! Making monthly payments is DEBT, and you end up paying more than whatever it’s really worth. So, just open a savings account. Once you feel you can trust yourself to not touch any of your savings, you may open a checking account and only place your “fun money” there. Use the credit card that comes with the account to spend the fun money, which will help build your credit score. You want to start on the right foot and build your credit! Just don’t overdo it. Purchase only what you have the money in the account to cover immediately. Remember: Do not go into debt for anything. Paying immediately for something you charge will help you gain a high credit score. A high credit score will help you when you are ready to buy your real estate. Just stick to the savings account as the place where you put most of your earnings.

There’s something magical about seeing the amount in a savings account increase over time. What starts as just a few hundred dollars, quickly turns into more than a few thousand dollars. You have big plans for this money. If you take any out and think you’ll replace it later, forget about it. It won’t happen. You will only be practicing stealing from yourself, so don’t go there. Stay the course, and don’t touch that money! Concentrate on the large amount you will need in just a couple more years and what you will be able to do with that money. Keep your eyes on that prize! Learn to master money; don’t let it master you!

Here is Wisdom

If you can discipline yourself to save money and not be tempted to spend it, even when others are encouraging you or guilt-tripping you to spend it, then you will be successful! Remember that you have really big plans for this money. In fact, your plans will make you rich beyond your dreams, but if you can’t discipline yourself to save the money and spend only what you allow yourself to spend, you will never realize your goals or finance your dreams. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. You will not get anywhere if you rob Peter to pay Paul.

Here’s the Prize

Your goal is to find a job and save money so that, in four years, you can buy real property to live in. Notice I said “real property”, not a “house”. I want your to think in terms of owning something outright and not “financing” it. Financing it means you go into debt. You don’t want to be in debt. Avoid debt like the plague! You want to buy something outright– free and clear. In other words, once you pay for it, the only thing you will need to pay will be your property taxes and upkeep. Once you know what that amount will be annually, divide it by 12; then you will know what your “housing” costs will be each month and can then budget accordingly. Why do you want to own something outright? Because if you can greatly reduce or eliminate this expense, you can spend what you would’ve spent on housing on other things. Your cash flow will improve. You will have more money to save and invest! You can have financial freedom when you own a home free and clear. This is your ultimate goal.

What If I Only Can Save $20,000 or $30,000 in Four Years?

That’s okay. Buy what you can buy, in that price range, so that you own it free and clear. You may only be able to buy a small piece of undeveloped land. Don’t despair! You will be able to live there; it will just take a little longer. Alternatively, it may be that you will need to re-think what you consider housing in the short term, in order to reap a great financial benefit in the long term.

Here’s what I mean. You have worked and saved for four years, but you can only afford to buy a piece of land for $20,000 outright. That’s alright. You did your homework. You know there are no codes or covenants that force you to build a certain type of house on the land; therefore, you are free to live in a tent there, if you want. However, you may want to park a used RV on your land, until you’ve saved enough to build a house. Remember, the RV you buy to place on the land is to be purchased free and clear. There are many used RV trailers for sale under $1000 on Craigslist everyday. In fact, it’s possible to find RVs and travel trailers someone would be willing to give away for free, so long as you haul it away!

Now you have 1) land, and 2) a dwelling to live in for free. You’ve now eliminated the biggest item in most people’s monthly budget– the cost of housing. Your monthly expenses will be utilities, food, and annual taxes. That’s it! For most people, (and depending where you buy), those costs could be under $400 total every month. A good rule of thumb is this: Try to keep your cost of living below 1/4th of your monthly net income. Save the difference between your monthly income and your expenditures, and you will be able to make improvements on your land in no time. Remember to pay for everything with cash as you go. Always make sure to own it free and clear. If you do that, you can’t go wrong.

How Important Is This, Really?

Learning to save for and then buy something you want, so that you do not go into debt to pay for it, may be the hardest thing to do, but it is absolutely the most rewarding way to go. In fact, it was THE way most Americans did things as little as 75 years ago.

Seventy-five years ago, World War II was just starting in Europe. People in America were still living with the effects of the Great Depression, where 25%-30% of the working-age population were unemployed. Back then, there was no safety net provided by the government. People helped each other. Churches and benevolent associations took care of the poor and needy. People found ways to create their own work. They spent less on groceries, by planting and cultivating gardens. They learned to barter with farmers for fruits, vegetables, and meats. They had backyard chickens and a cow for milk. They learned to can what they didn’t immediately eat and store the extra for future consumption. This is a mind-set and a skill-set different from today, where people are used to going to the grocery store for food one to three (or more) times a week.

Today, grocery stores do not keep as much inventory on the premises as before. The logistics of food distribution has become so sophisticated that stores can replenish their shelves in one to three days. The large trucks on the nation’s highways are actually warehouses on wheels, bringing goods and perishables to stores on a “just in time” basis. In America, this process has become so efficient we have become lulled into believing it will always keep going.

It is difficult for us today to imagine a time when people grew most of their own food, created and repaired their own clothes, and even built their own houses. In fact, the modern mortgage banking system, where you save for a down-payment and then are loaned the balance of the purchase price at an interest rate based on your credit score for a term of 30 years, is a fairly recent phenomenon. Prior to this model, most folks negotiated a home purchase with the owner directly and maybe with the help of an attorney drawing up the agreement. People routinely paid all-cash for land and then set about building their own homes. Most able-bodied men in America at that time were capable of laying a foundation and completing the construction of a house. This was done to stay out of debt and make it easier to live. If you owned a home and some land, you did not have a mortgage payment to meet every month. You had a roof over your head already paid for. You had a yard for a garden to grow food to feed your family. You may have enough land for a chicken coop, or a small grazing pasture to keep a cow or small herd of cows. By owning your own home, you had no monthly mortgage payment. There wasn’t anyone, who owned the mortgage note, who you had to pay or risk losing your home. No one would think of purchasing a home unless they had the money to buy it outright. It wasn’t done, because it wasn’t prudent. It wasn’t good for the homeowner to go into massive debt to have a home, precisely because a situation could arise where you could lose the home.

Today, housing costs take up the largest monthly outlay in people’s budgets. Whether you rent or have a mortgage, you pay roughly 30-40% of your take-home income on housing and housing-related expenses. Failure to make those payments will get you evicted from your home. If evicted, ALL the money spent on keeping that roof over your head was spent for nothing, including the interest on the home loan you were paying. Interest alone adds nearly three times the purchase prince, paid over time. So a home price of $150,000 will actually cost three times that, or $450,000 over 30 years, all due to interest payments! The difference between $450,000 and $150,000 is money that you could have spent on other things for yourself, instead of enriching a banker. If you buy a house this way, you are agreeing to mortgage your own future and are robbing from your future self to pay for it! You are making yourself a slave to that debt. You are a slave to whoever loaned you the money. You must pay it back. There are no other options, other than bankruptcy, which is worse. ANY large debt you agree to pay back later makes you a slave to whoever gives you the loan. This includes the college students who have made themselves slaves to the Federal Government, because they are on the hook for all of the student loans they are taking to pay for college. They are making themselves vassals of an overlord who has draconian means to force them to pay the student loans back, via the IRS. New federal laws actually empower the IRS to get involved and confiscate your future earnings in order to pay back your student loans. This all begs the question: Do you really want to do that to yourself? Why would you willingly make yourself a slave, especially since a degree does not guarantee a job? This is why it is better to learn self-sufficiency now, while you can still do something about your future. If you’re right out of high school, spend the next three or four years getting yourself financially established, mastering money, saving, and saving some more. Then get your housing squared away. Pay cash. Don’t go into debt. Try to find free or low-cost ways to learn any desirable skill. Once you have the housing cost eliminated, THEN you can think about college, if you still want to go.



Letter Re: Officer Survival Initiative First Aid Materials

Scot,

I enjoyed your article entitled Product Review: Officer Survival Initiative First Aid Materials. I am a graduate of the National Outdoor Leadership School and a three-time graduate of the Wilderness Medicine Institute’s Wilderness First Aid Course (a re-certification is required every two years). I have three points:

First, Wilderness First Aid has a different orientation than regular Red Cross First Aid courses. The latter are quite practical for most of us who live in cities and towns and focus on assessing and stabilizing a victim, while an ambulance is on its way. In the back country when help is days away and climbers or backpackers have only the weight-limited gear that is with them, WFA requires more effort to stabilize and, to a limited extent, treat injuries. Think of two hikers three days into the wilderness. One falls and breaks a leg. It’s probably not life-threatening in the short-run, but it makes the hike home rather longer than planned, and they have no radio to call for help. How does the First Aid provider use the limited materials at hand to splint and maybe even reduce the fracture, so the person can hobble towards civilization before their food runs out? I have taken this course with EMTs, emergency room nurses, and doctors. While they have vast knowledge, they are used to all of the equipment of a well-stocked ambulance, emergency room, or doctor’s office. The challenge to them is to use their knowledge with extremely-limited resources. The medical professionals I studied with absolutely love the challenge of figuring this out, but it certainly is sobering to them to think of doing medicine that way.

Second, Wilderness First Aid courses may not require as much travel as you suggest. As an example, in my area near Pittsburgh, Venture Outdoors (a local outdoor adventure organization) conducts two weekend Wilderness First Aid courses annually with instructors from NOLS/Wilderness Medicine Institute. About half of each class is conducted outdoors, regardless of weather, to add reality to the situation. I enjoyed the winter sessions. Not only do the aid givers need to deal with a fracture, but they also need to keep the victim from freezing to death– a real dose of reality.

Third: You are so right about two days being insufficient for detailed training, though it sure can help with the limited resources mindset. A prepper might say the shorter courses have some holes in them (no coverage of gunshot wounds, for example), but there is something for everyone. In addition to the two-day WFA course, the Wilderness Medicine Institute has a one-week Wilderness Advanced First Aid course, a two-week Wilderness First Responders course, a month-long course for Wilderness EMTs, and even a Wilderness Medicine and Rescue semester-long course. The shorter courses are taught across the U.S. and in various places overseas, though a trip to WMI’s beautiful new campus outside of Lander, Wyoming, in the shadow of the Wind River Range, is well worth taking! Also, there are numerous books available from WMI and Amazon such as “Wilderness & Travel Medicine” and “Wilderness Medicine”.

Regards – Walks With Cats

SFE Replies: You nailed the reason why I think wilderness courses are what preppers need– we may not be able to get help. My comments on finding classes nearby were based on my own location. Other than the Red Cross Wilderness First Aid class, the closest ones I’ve been able to find involved eight hour drives. I hope that changes!



Economics and Investing:

Where Is The U.S. Economy Headed? – D.B.

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77,000 Foreign Banks to Share Tax Info with IRS – H.L.

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

US Money Slump Flashes Warnings as Economy Contracts

The Velocity Of Money In The U.S. Falls To An All-Time Record Low

Ben & Janet’s Swell Housing Recovery: Sales Booming For The 1%; Heading Down For Everyone Else

Four More Signs That A Market Top Is Nigh

America’s Insatiable Demand For More Expensive Cars, Larger Homes And Bigger Debts



Odds ‘n Sods:

On this anniversary of D-Day, SurvivalBlog reader C.T. sent in this link to an interesting article comparing the Normandy beaches in 1944 to 70 years later. D-Day Landing Sites Then and Now

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Dr. Ben Carson: Obamacare More Damaging Than 9/11 – H.L.

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SurvivalBlog reader R.B. in Washington state writes in: Now Washington state is seeing detainment of motorists for roadside “surveys”. The online news video was edited from what actually was broadcast. One broadcast version has the same reporter saying (paraphrased) that a reluctance to participate in the survey might be an indicator of impairment.

Other states have conducted these “surveys”, including Pennsylvania, where a man has filed lawsuit for violation of 4th amendment rights. The common theme is they want a cheek swab and despite their saying it is voluntary, there is a lot of pressure to cooperate, and a policeman is present. Here, they want to possibly take a blood sample, too, and are paying $60 if you volunteer.

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An older article but worth the read. All Federal Gun Laws Are Unconstitutional . – B.B.

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Interesting facts about the lowly potato: Spuds – J.W.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“The public wonders ‘Why are you giving all this money to the people who caused this crisis and taking the money from the public assets of the victims?’” – William Greider



Notes for Thursday – June 05, 2014

Today we present another entry for Round 53 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. A full set of all 26 books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208.
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 53 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Livestock Breeding Strategies For When SHTF – Part 2, by S.W.

The goat is called the poor man’s cow. They are inexpensive, easy to handle, and eat a wide variety of vegetation. They are basically browsers, meaning they eat leaves and stems from shrubs and trees. They are the most efficient animal to convert browse to lean meat. When commercial feeds become unavailable, they would be the most likely survivors. They are also easily trained as pack and cart animals, able to pack 20 to 40% of their weight and pull five times that. They can negotiate more difficult terrain than any other pack animal and continue with only the water they get from vegetation for up to four days, if not making milk. They would be the best animal to “bug-out” with to either the woods or range. They can make good use of cut-over areas, growing deciduous trees, and weeds June through September and grass pastures October and November and April and May. December through March requires winter feeding on some combination of evergreen blackberries, heather, dry grass supplemented with oil seed cake, hay, silage, grain, roots, kale, twigs, bark, even discarded Christmas trees, and ivy. The books say ivy is poisonous. However, my St. Croix sheep have kept my property ivy-free without a problem. It may be they have to get used to it gradually. The sheep were orphan lambs that incorporated ivy into their diet as they began eating solids.

The milk breeds are Alpines, La Mancha, Nubians, Saanens, Toggenburgs, and Oberhaslis. The Saanen gives the most milk and the Nubian the richest milk. The Alpines and Toggenburgs are the most persistent milkers, meaning they continue producing milk the longest before dropping off and going dry. Usually people breed their goats to kid every year, breeding them after seven months of production, milking another two or three months, and then drying them off for two months before kidding again. With the persistent goats, one can milk continually without rebreeding for 13 to 36 months. This means more feed goes into milk production and is less stressful for both the goat and owner. So these would be good choices for a family milk goat.

For someone who wants both milk and meat, Boers, Nubians, and Saanens are the best choices. They are the largest goats. The Boer is actually a meat goat, breeds year round, and commonly has twins and triplets. Therefore they give sufficient milk for a number of kids. One can reduce the number of kids they are nursing to the degree of milk needed by humans. The Saanen and Boer are also excellent work goats. The Nubian seldom has the temperament for work.

Pigmy goats and Nigerian Dwarf goats are small breeds that can give up to two quarts of milk per day. Their small size classifies them as pets, making them legal to keep in some cities. Three dwarfs can be kept in the space needed for one standard goat. If one’s bug-out location is a rocky hilly area with lots of brush, the Spanish goat would be the most efficient meat producer.

The best breeds to “bug-out” with would be the triple-purpose goats– Saanens and Boers. However, the Saanen, being a high milk producer, requires grain for that production. The wethers (castrated goats), however, would be fine to take along as pack and meat animals. That leaves the Boer as the most important breed to maintain when SHTF.

In using goats to rustle their own feed, consider the following rules of thumb. If a kid is fed an abundance of milk and grain, the rumen does not develop to handle the coarse feeds they need when rustling. The kid should be weaned off milk between 8 and 12 weeks and fed one pound of grain and protein concentrate a day, along with roughage until nine months old. By then the rumen has developed enough for it to continue developing on a roughage diet. If a goat has been fed in confinement as an adult, it will not adjust to grazing. Also, if a doe has always been dried off after 5 to 10 months of milking, she will persist in that pattern. So to have a goat that adjusts to your system, you best start with young ones. For the best tasting milk, you need to confine the doe off browse, silage, and turnips four hours before milking. Milk every 12 hours or 6 or 7 AM and 4 or 5 PM, but be consistent. You best confine her at night, then release her after milking until four hours before the next milking, then out again until dark.

In breeding the dairy goats, it takes two to keep a family in dairy products year round. So to use the system used for dairy cows, we would need six people with six does each, supplying two other families and each keeping a buck, which will rotate between herds each year. Goat milk is naturally homogenized, so it is harder to separate out the cream to make butter. Goat’s milk is not as universally used, so it may be harder to find the other 12 families to supply. This may be the place to discuss the difficulty finding a community of breeders who all have or agree to have the same breed. Our three lines could actually be three different breeds. The breed conservationists would never approve, but consider that during World War II some European breeds of livestock were lost or severely depleted. So, we should consider with all our stock which breeds could logically be combined if necessary.

With goats, I would put all the dairy breeds, except the Nubians, in one class. The Nubian is genetically different in some ways. Importantly, the polled (hornless) gene in both Nubians and Angoras is not linked with the intersex gene, like it is in the other dairy breeds. It is necessary to avoid breeding polled to polled in those breeds. I think the other breeds could be crossed, but Nubians, Angoras, Boers, and the dwarf breeds should be kept separate, though the dwarfs could be crossed with each other. Some crosses with Angoras to make the Pygora breed and with Pygmies on Nubians to make the Kindergoat have been done, and that is fine if one wants to maintain these breeds. The small Kindergoat gives nearly as much milk as the Nubian, and the kids efficiently convert feed to meat.

How it might work to maintain three breeds of goats in a community might look like this:

A = Alpine
B = Toggenburg
C = Saanen

    Year 1   Year 2   Year 3  
Breeder Does Buck Kids Buck Kids Buck Kids
1 A A 1 A C 2 AC Cross B 1 AB Cross
2 A B 1 AB Cross A 2 A C 2 AC
3 B C 1 BC Cross B 1 B A 1 BA Cross
4 B A 2 BA Cross C 1 BC Cross B 2 B
5 C B 2 CB Cross A 1 CA Cross C 1 C
6 C C 2 C B 2 CB Cross A 2 CA Cross
    Year 4   Year 5   Year 6  
1 A & crosses 2’s Alpine A 5’s C AC Cross 4’s B AB Cross
2 A & Crosses 4’s B AB Crosses 1’s A A 5’s C AC Cross
3 B & crosses 6’s C BC Crosses 4’s B B 2’s A BA Crosses
4 B & crosses 1’s A BA Crosses 6’s C BC Crosses 3’s B B
5 C & crosses 3’s B CB Crosses 2’s A CA Crosses 6’s C C
6 C & crosses 5’s C C 3’s B CB Crosses 1’s A CA Crosses

The average dairy cow or doe reproduces herself by five years of age but can easily keep reproducing for 10 years. So some purebreds will be maintained for some time. One person could manage Boers, Spanish goats, or the dwarfs for meat production part time, using the system of 30 does and three bucks used sequentially. Alternatively, one could maintain any breed pure, for a time, using 10 does and two bucks, breeding sons of one buck to the daughters of the other buck. Extend the generation interval by using them as long as able and keeping new parents from later breedings. Even with a 4-year generation interval, one could go 8 to 12 years before needing new blood.

Sheep are no more efficient in crude protein production per hectare than cattle, and they are subject to predation, disease, and parasites. They require more labor than cattle but considerably less grazing land per animal (1/4 acre/ewe-lamb pair). However, like cattle, they make efficient use of land too arid or too steep for cultivation (over 15-20% slope and 8-16 inches of annual precipitation). Sheep fit best in areas of medium to low rainfall, grazing steeper areas than cattle, short grass ranges preferably with lots of forbs (herbaceous plants like clover and dandelion).

Sheep are the most important wool producers. The six top dual purpose wool-meat sheep breeds begin with the Rambouillet. Only the Merino has finer grading wool, but the Rambouillet is more productive with respect to lamb meat. They are the breed of choice for extensive grazing and wool for light-weight comfortable clothing. The Targhee comes next for high quality apparel type wool, and it adapts to both farm and range conditions and even has some parasite resistance. Next are the Columbia and Corriedale crossbred-wool breeds. They are excellent range sheep with wool valued by hand spinners for making blankets. They have meatier lambs than the fine-wool sheep. The Long-wool breeds to consider are the Border Leicester and the Romney. The longer, coarser wool is most easily spun into yarn and used for making thick sweaters and rugs. These breeds do not have the same flocking instinct as the range breeds and do better on good pastures. The Leicester is valued for crossing on Rambouillets to produce a meatier lamb. The Romney is valued by hand spinners for hardiness in the wetter Pacific Northwest climate.

For strictly meat production, the blackface medium-wool breeds are most popular. These are the Suffolk and the Hampshire for large meaty lambs. They are kept on diversified farms where the feed and pasture are good quality, which is especially necessary for the Hampshire. Their wool has little value, but it still needs to be clipped every year. The Southdown is a smaller medium-wool sheep adapted to hillier pastures. If one wants primarily meat but would like some wool for spinning, the Southdown wool is similar to cashmere and easy to blend with other fibers. This breed does not eat shrubs and trees, so is used to weed orchards and vineyards.

If one wants lamb meat without the bother of shearing, three hair sheep breeds meet the requirement. The Dorper is the best meat breed, producing very meaty twin lambs with the highest value skins of any breed. They are good foragers in hot, dry climates. The St. Croix, also known for twinning, utilizes coarse feeds and has the most parasite resistance of any breed. They do eat trees and vines. The Katahdin also produces twins, utilizes a high forage diet and has good parasite resistance. All these hair sheep breed year round and if necessary could be combined. The Barbados is a hair sheep I do not recommend, due to wildness, making management more difficult. The same breeding program recommended for meat goats apply to sheep.

Dry lands, defined as a growing period less than 120 days encompasses 41% of the earth’s land mass and much of the Western U.S. Here, range animals provide an efficient subsistence base in areas otherwise unproductive for humans. Highest yields often occur where cattle, sheep, and goats all share the range. Cattle eat grass, sheep eat forbs, and goats browse. If one’s survival retreat consists of acres of range land with a water source, pastoralism could become the survival strategy. Seven adults with as many children could handle 30 horned Hereford cows and three bulls, eight Nubian does and two bucks, 30 Rambouillet or Crossbred-wool ewes and three rams, and use nine riding mares and one stallion for transportation. I would select Morgans of Western working lines. Successful pastoralists hold a wealth of ecological knowledge passed down through generations of experience. Since, in the U.S., pastoralism, other than under fence, is a dying way of life, the learning curve will be very steep for newcomers.

I am convinced that what will survive when SHTF are small communities pulling together. Your family’s stockpile of food, water, bullets, and band aids will last only so long. Over the long haul, communities producing their own necessities from farms and ranges will rebuild civilization.



Two Letters Re: Moving Females in SHTF Scenario

HJL,

Regarding C.B.’s article on moving females, I have a few suggestions. I have long, thick hair that goes to my waist and for many years had the constant frustration of trying to figure out what to do with it when I was getting dirty (hunting, butchering, cleaning the barn, ect.). Tucking it into a hat never worked for more than 20 minutes at a time. First, the cap or cowboy hat or what ever was in constant danger of being knocked off my head because of the extra mass under it or blown off by our wonderful winds in this part of the country because healthy hair is smooth and the hat had no grip.

I would like to gently suggest that hey either cut their hair or learn to braid and twist it up. It takes me less than five minutes to tuck my hair into a french braid each morning. In another few seconds, I can have a low, flat bun on the top of my head. Low and Flat are the key words. Top is the key location. Without securing the hair properly, the females in your party are going to be one stumble or wind gust away from ruining their disguise.

As a last thought, it helps to get your ladies used to wearing a hat outside at all times. I can always tell when someone is new to a cap. – K.B.

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Hugh,

“Have the girls tuck their hair under a hat”. Seriously? Cut the hair off. It’ll grow back. Don’t have good scissors? I’ll bet you have a sharp knife and frankly that will be better anyway. You’re not styling the hair you want it to look kind of “raw”. Cut it short like a boys cut but keep the bangs if you can. Also leave the hair a bit longer in front of the ear to hang down to give the impression of side burns. You are not trying for the illusion of a man you are shooting for “young man or older boy”. If you are talking about an elderly woman then you can shoot for elderly man but that might be a different article.

Okay, baggy clothes is fine butshould take the advice a bit further. The illusion of male/female is more about contrast. A females shape still needs to be re-sculpted, even under baggy clothes. Strapping the breasts down as much as possible is obvious. But what will aid the illusion a lot is thickening the waist. It is not so much the larger chest/hips on women that give away their shape but the difference in waist to hips/breasts. If you thicken the waist you help this difference fade. Just tape extra clothing or other padding right around the waist to thicken that area. A small bundle of socks in the groin is also something to consider. Don’t overdo it and make sure that it is not going to slip or fall out.

Dirt and or grease on the face? Yes, but where on the face can make a huge difference. Use the darker grease to make the eyebrows look thicker and less arched. If the women in the group have an eyebrow pencil and or eyelash thickener they can use that on the fine hairs around their eyebrows and in front of their ears to give the appearance of sideburns and masculine eyebrows. I would *not* try for a makeup beard or stubble. Unless you are a pro it will look fake and put you at higher risk. Think of a 14 or 15 year old boy with the beginning of masculine facial hair. Also, when putting grease/dirt on the face put a darker amount on the neck behind the jaw line. This will make the jaw line look more prominent which is also a more masculine feature.

Of course, clean off all nail polish, makeup and/or jewelry (in a SHTF scenario I would hope you are not wearing jewelry in any case). But pay some attention to hands. Get the nail polish off then cut the nails short – shorter then the female in question is comfortable with (probably right down to the quick). If you can get her to chew the nails a bit to make then jagged that would help as well. Then take a light coating of grease and rub it into the nails and cuticles and then have them drive their hands straight down into the dirt. Then wipe the hands with a towel or rinse lightly with water but no soap. The idea is to get the nails looking dirty as if they have not been cleaned thoroughly in a long period of time. Hands are a dead give away. If you have time it would be good to scuff the hands up as much as possible even callousing them (if they are not already- obviously for some women reading this their hands are plenty tough and dirty already). As it is you should avoid having women shake hands with anyone whom you are trying to fool. Most of the time a woman’s hand is too small to really fool anyone if they are gripping it. But if they are dirty and you are shooting for the young boy look you might fool a casual glance.

Feet – if you are driving in a car this might be less of an issue but having everyone get out of a car is not an unusual request. Women’s feet are usually much smaller then men’s so have the women wear shoes that are a size or two too large. Have them wear multiple pairs of socks. so that they don’t look like they are not filling in the shoe and have them practice walking so that they don’t stumble. And speaking of walking the easiest way to get a woman to walk like a man is to tell them to lengthen their stride a bit more then is comfortable and then walk “heel-toe”. Drive the heel into the ground then roll onto the toe and repeat. Arm movement is tricky so just have them put their hands in their pocket or hoody while walking to avoid the hassle.

Which bring us to behavior. Women often have unconscious movements that are very feminine – brushing hair out of their face in a feminine manner, touching their hand to their throat or upper chest, playing with earring or necklaces (even if they are not there). Just avoid the whole problem. Tell the woman trying to pass to keep her hands in her pockets or the front of her hoody as much as possible. Keep eyes downcast but not submissively – with a surly attitude. This also bring up the action of the men in the group. They need to try to forget that they are traveling with women. The women should have male names to respond to. The men should think about what their relationship is to the woman (are they fathers, brothers, uncles etc.) then try to think of them as that role. So if I am your dad I might issue you orders like a father might to a son, if they are little brothers then teasing or taunting might be appropriate.

Finally, and this one will expose you every time – smell. I have a 14 year old boy – and anyone else who does will tell you that they are often quite stinky. Make sure that the women are not wearing perfume and that any linger smell has been taken off by soap and water (non fragrant soap of course). Then have them don a dirty t-shirt from a male. This may get the biggest “ewwws” from the subject in question but that is why it works. A person who smells like a boy or man will really throw off someone who is close enough to get a whiff. The natural impulse will be to pull back (which you want) and to assume that this must be a stinky teenage boy (which you also want). If nothing else it will make any pat down or close inspection be that much quicker and cursory





Odds ‘n Sods:

One more reason to dump social media networking! Secret Service Requests Software To Track Social Media Trends, Detect Sarcasm – JBG

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West ponders how to stop – or fight – a new Great War – T.J.

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Krayton Kern’s latest ramblings about a political process. Sharp! Advisors

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It looks to me like the President expected that people would celebrate the release of an American POW, no matter what the cost. How typical that they would ignore the lives lost in a search for a known deserter. My personal feeling is that the president should be impeached over breaking federal law, and the deserter should be tried for treason. Failing that, the deserter should be tried for manslaughter over the 8 men who lost their lives in the search for him. How many more Americans will lose their lives due to the actions of the five released Taliban? Pentagon knew Bergdahl’s whereabouts but didn’t risk rescue for ‘deserter’ – Washington Times – P.M.

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If this route is in your escape plan, you may want to consider plan B: Crucial East Coast Highway Bridge Closed – G.P.





Notes for Wednesday – June 04, 2014

On this day in 1944, United States Navy Task Group 22.3 captured U-505, a German submarine, and with it an intact Enigma cypher machine. This was first time since the USS Peacock seized HMS Nautilus in 1815 that the USN had captured an enemy vessel at sea. The sub, reunited with its periscope a decade ago, is displayed at the Museum of Science and Industry, in Chicago.

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CampingSurvival.com is offering SurvivalBlog readers free shipping for everything on their site from June 4th through June 6th. When checking out, use the Coupon code: SB-June.

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Today we present another entry for Round 53 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. A full set of all 26 books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208.
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 53 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Livestock Breeding Strategies For When SHTF – Part 1, by S.W.

Since my high school days, I have dedicated my spare time to breeding quality creatures– parakeets, gerbils, rabbits, cats, and canaries. As I see my country disintegrating, I am adding skills in heating with wood and growing fruits, vegetables, meat, and eggs. I currently enjoy breeding and showing canaries, and I think about how hard it will be to keep these beautiful but impractical creatures going when so much time and effort has to go into human survival issues. How few pairs can I retain to keep a strain or variety going without loss due to inbreeding?

Actually, this question applies also to the practical animals we need in survival situations. So I am writing about the practical animals and questions regarding their breeding, like how many we need and how we breed them so as to keep them going for what could be a 10-year period before life normalizes.

I begin with animals having long generation intervals of six to ten years and then those with medium generation intervals– four or five years. A generation interval is the average age at which a species reproduces itself. The long generation interval species we breed in North America are horses and asses.

Horses, today, are mainly pleasure animals, but when the economy collapses and petroleum products become difficult or impossible to acquire, they could again become very practical. They are preferred draft animals, due to speed and trainability, but they require good quality, careful feeding and are susceptible to disease and injury. Horses are useful for logging, farming, and hauling.

The most practical draft breeds are the ones with smooth legs, as the hairy leg breeds are liable to skin problems. Percherons have good action for heavy hauling. Belgians have power for pulling heavy logs. Suffolks were bred specifically for farm work. In using these animals for farm power, one-quarter of the land must be dedicated to growing their feed. I would not use the large breeds for farming on less than 20 acres. A light breed, which eats less, can work smaller farms, plowing 1.5 acres a day. Practical breeds for this are Morgans, Welsh Cobs, Quarter horses, Hafflingers, and Icelandics. Light horses, especially Quarter horses, are more readily available. Select old type Morgans and Quarter horses, not ones bred for showing or racing.

Because of care demands, three to five mares are as many as would be practical for one person to care for on a part-time basis. Stallions are difficult to keep. Because they have a long working/breeding life, 10 to 15 years, the best strategy to keep a line going under difficult circumstances is to hand-mate mares to local stallions and have enough people doing this that when commerce and communication resumes, bloodlines can be combined. A mature stallion can hand mate up to 100 mares a season; a two year old can hand mate 10 mares.

Asses are intelligent and tractable, and they are considered by people familiar with both horses and asses to be safer to handle. They can pull carts, plows, harrows, and weeders and pack loads. They are smaller and less powerful than horses, averaging 12 hands and 385 lbs. They are said to be able to carry 1/3 of their body weight and haul three times their weight by cart. They are also more amenable to boring tasks like threshing or operating a treadmill or wheel for generating electricity. A 150 kg donkey has a power output of 200 watts working four hours a day, while a 400 kg horse has a power output of 500 watts working 10 hours a day (www.fao.org/sd/egdirect/EGan0006.htm). Therefore, one would need two donkeys to do the work of one light breed horse. One can work an ass six hours a day with one hour rests after every two hours of work.

Asses are browsers rather than grass eaters, like horses, so they can survive on poorer quality, high fiber roughage. Mules require one-third less grain than horses the same size. Both asses and mules are hardier than horses. One could probably care for 5 to 10 jennies on a part-time basis. They are most valuable in arid areas, second only to camels in water conservation.

Regarding breeding strategies for these long-lived species, the entire males are difficult to handle and impractical for the average person. The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC) recommends a network of breeders and a minimum of three sire lines bred to a female band consecutively or sequentially, until suitable replacements are raised. They consider 10 females per line, 30 total, as a minimum. I will deal with their strategy in more detail with the next group of animals. A jack can hand mate 5 to 30 jennies a year.

For anyone planning on farming with draft animals, one must consider that plowing with animals requires more and certainly a different skill than driving a tractor. It is important to acquire this skill soon. Also, consider how few animals are trained for farm work. While horses will likely be easy to get when the economy gets really bad, a horse trained for riding is harder to train for pulling than one first trained to pull. I believe asses need training when quite young as well, and their training is not exactly the same as training that works for horses. Also, in most parts of North America, asses are not commonly raised. So if they are desired, a breeding network needs to be arranged.

When considering food animals in North America, the most numerous breeds have been selected for high production under heavy inputs of feed, veterinary care, and management systems. When these inputs fail, breeds not so selected will outperform them. We need to focus on animals utilizing feeds that are not directly useful for human food and animals that are easy to manage and hardy under less than optimal conditions.

Beef is a widely accepted and preferred meat. One hectare produces 57 to 65 kg of crude protein from grain-fed beef and 27 kg from grass fed beef. This is not very efficient, especially considering that grain, such as corn, competes directly with corn for human energy food and for fuel energy as ethanol. The grass-fed beef, on the other hand, if produced on non-arable land, does not so compete. In fact, on arid grasslands where rainfall is 600 mm (24”) per year, range cattle provide an efficient subsistence base in areas otherwise unproductive for humans.

There are two species of cattle, Bos taurus, a temperate climate species, and Bos indicus, the humped tropical climate species. They are fully fertile when crossed but were bred in isolation for so long they can be accurately categorized as subspecies. The Bos taurus species produces the most palatable beef. Habitat consists of brush free tall grass ranges, 8-15% slopes. A wooded area at the top of a hill provides adequate winter shelter. For part-time labor, 21 to 50 cows with offspring butchered off grass at 15 to 24 months of age is a manageable size. Most areas in the U.S. require hay-making equipment and storage space for winter feeding. Corrals and chutes are also needed.

In third world countries, oxen are the most commonly used draft animals. They tolerate hardship, mud, and snow better than many other animals. They are used to draw carts, to plow, plant, cultivate, spread fertilizer, mow, and rake crops, build dams and ponds, and operate rotary devices. They can work between four and nine hours a day for an 8-year working life. The Bos indicus species utilizes 3.3 joules of food energy from coarse crops, such as straw or sparse grass, per joule output in work energy.

The dairy cow is the most efficient animal protein producer at 33.1% conversion. She produces 118 kg crude protein per hectare. Her habitat is grass pasture on gently sloping (3-8%) land and 700 mm annual precipitation or cheap irrigation. Dairying requires high labor and management skills. Hand-milking takes 40 minutes per cow per day; unweaned calves require 20 minutes per day; and weaned calves take 7-10 minutes per day. In high rainfall areas, silage or haylage is used if hay is too costly to make or transport. Bull calves can be raised to 200 pounds at 6-8 weeks for veal, kept 6-12 months and sold as feeder or draft calves, or grown out for beef at 12 to 16 months of age. For part-time labor, consider three to nine milk cows or eight to ten dual-purpose cows.

In temperate climates, if one desires to raise cattle strictly for beef where the amount and quality and/or consistency of nutrients is low, the medium-sized British breeds are better choices than the large Continental European breeds. The Hereford is the ideal range breed and makes an excellent draft animal, especially if horned for head yokes. The oxen average 2200 lbs. and are among the easiest to train. The Angus and Beef Shorthorn are also good beef breeds, but they do better on pastures than rough ranges. The Saler is a beef breed that tolerates sub-optimal care and nutrition and is the only Continental breed really suitable for range life. Native to France, it was once a triple-purpose milk, draft, and beef breed. So, if one wants primarily beef but also a cow that produces a bit more milk than her calf needs, the Saler is a good choice. In France they give about 11 quarts of milk a day, which is used to make a good cheese. They have had a reputation in this country for wildness but are currently selected for docility. So select from stock with good docility scores.

Among the milk cow breeds, the Black and White Holstein is the most productive and most numerous. They have high upkeep requirements, produce too much milk for a family cow, and are not good rustlers. During the dry season in Guatemala, I observed Holsteins at a milking. They appeared to give no more milk than the goats I milked in Oregon. They do make great oxen at 2500 lb. mature size and are fairly easy to train.[1]

The Ayrshire probably produces more milk on poor pasture than any other breed. One can graze 2.5 Ayrshires per hectare (one cow per acre). The oxen reach 1600-2000 lbs. and have wonderful horns, but they are difficult to train.

The milking Shorthorn is a productive milk cow, which produces better beef than the Ayrshire and is also very desirable for draft with oxen reaching 2300 lbs. They are fairly easy to train, so this can be considered a triple-purpose breed. Be sure to get pure American strains, as those crossed to produce greater quantities of milk do not produce as well on grass-based systems.

Another triple-purpose breed is the Brown Swiss. They are good rustlers, tolerating rough conditions. They produce better meat and 2400 lb. oxen that are among the most trainable.

Another triple-purpose breed is the rare Dutch Belt. They are 2000 lb. oxen and very trainable. The dual-purpose milk-meat breeds, due to high solids nonfat milk, make good cheese. The Dutch Belt produces well on grass.

Some special purpose breeds to consider are the small breeds. The Dexter is the smallest breed, requiring only 2/3 of an acre (3.25/ha) for grazing, producing a third as much milk as the average milk cow, and it’s an acceptable beef calf. Oxen are only 1000 lb. and hard to train. The Guernsey is strictly a milk cow but produces milk high in butterfat and is more easily managed than the Jersey, another small cow that produces milk high in butterfat. These all have value as family cows.

In the subtropical U.S., the Bos indicus breeds and crossbreeds, such as the Beefmaster, can be considered for beef production. Breeds like the Red Sindhi Zebu are bred for milk production, and the Gir Zebu is a triple-purpose breed. Miniature Zebus, available in the U.S., mature at 400 lbs., graze at 5/ha, and are said to give a gallon of milk per day. The Bos indicus cattle work harder and faster than Bos taurus and conserve water better in hot temperatures. I would be concerned about temperament. The wildest domestic animal I ever encountered was a Brahman-Jersey cross.

A common system of mating beef cattle in a closed herd (no introduction of outside stock) is the clan system. Three or more dam families are set up, A, B, and C. A family sons mate B family cows; B sons mate only C cows; and C sons mate A cows. Bulls are used for two seasons and always to the next family in rotation. Females stay in their own family and are kept as long as productive. One could easily go 10 years with this system. This requires three breeding pastures, so if one chooses to run a 30 cow herd, it would mean one bull with 10 cows per enclosure. If one runs three bulls with 30 cows in one pasture and selects out three bulls and 30 cows at random each generation, theoretically inbreeding would increase about 5% per generation. However, matings would not likely be truly random, as the more dominant bulls would breed more than their share of cows.

The ALBC system proposes the three family system, using as a minimum three bulls on all 30 cows sequentially. The A bull breeds all cows A, B, and C the first season and the A/A bull calves are kept to select a replacement for the A bull. The other bull calves are not used as replacements, but all the heifer calves can be replacements. The next year the B bull is used on all 30 cows with B/B bull calves kept to replace him. No other bull calves are kept, and all the heifers are potential replacements. The third year the C bull is used on all the cows and also the 1st year heifers, the As, A/Bs, and A/Cs. He will be replaced by a C/C son and his daughters out of A/C heifers, being ¾ of the C line will then be considered C line dams. The 4th breeding season uses the A/A bull, now two years old, on all the cows and replacement heifers. Offspring produced each year are considered linebred if more than ½ A, B or C line or line crossed, if no more than half of any one line.

The advantages of this system are two-fold. First, it requires only one breeding pasture. Secondly, with inbreeding occurring in different directions, genetic differences between different lines are maintained within the population. Animals that are inbred to the A line may be mated to a B or C line to produce an outbred offspring. The clan system minimizes inbreeding over random mating but only slows it down. It still occurs through the entire line and always in the same direction, so no outcross is available within the herd[2]. Of course, you will want to keep the best two or three bull calves of each line to ensure against losing a line bull. It is easier to house a few young non-breeding bulls together than to divide a pasture into three or more breeding units. The bulls can be retired after their respective breeding season.

Currently, dairy cattle are almost always bred by artificial insemination. The advantages are:

  1. You need not keep a bull, which is an added expense in labor, space, and feed, plus they can be dangerous.
  2. Experts select and test the best prospects very scientifically for producing calves with desirable production traits. However, when transportation, communication, refrigeration, et cetera break down, artificial insemination will not be an option. Therefore, to maintain milk cows during a 10-year period of infrastructure breakdown, bulls need to be kept locally.

A Holstein cow can supply three to five families of four with as much fluid milk, butter, and cheese as we are used to eating. Since many of them will be around as the most numerous breed, the main problem will be milking them without electricity. Dairy farms probably have back-up generators, but how long will fuel for them last?

The Ayrshire, Milking Shorthorn, Dutch Belt, Guernsey, and Jersey will supply three families. The Dexter is just right for one family, and the Miniature Zebu and perhaps Saler would supply one person with enough dairy products for them plus a calf.

My recommendation would be to organize an informal community supported dairy of say 30 Dexter cows and 10 cow caretakers, each milker with three cows supplying two other households. Six bulls (two minimum for each of three lines) need to be kept somewhere within 16 miles of where the cows are. When a cow is detected in heat, she should be bred eight hours later. This means a trip to the bull on foot and 16 miles is probably as far as she will walk within eight hours. A coordinator can divide the cows and bulls into the three ALBC system groups and plan the appropriate matings and replacements.

If people in the community desire to use the bulls as draft animals, the better breeds to use than Dexters would be Brown Swiss, Dutch Belt, or Milking Shorthorn. One person can manage ten dual-purpose cows on a part-time basis, so any of these breeds could be maintained sustainably by three individuals with ten cows each. Half the cows could raise two calves each, and the other half milked for human consumption. Alternatively, each cow could suckle her own calf plus be milked. The milker milks out two teats into the bucket and leaves the other two for the calf to suckle for one-half hour after each milking. These techniques save on labor but milk yield will be less than bucket feeding calves for 10 weeks.

With ten families managing three Dexters each, the group would need 20 consumers. With three families managing ten dual-purpose breeds each, the group would need 44 to 87 consumers

References


[1] Information on ease of training and working draft oxen from Oxen: A Teamster’s Guide by Drew Conray, a Rural Heritage Book, Gainesboro, Tn. 1999


[2] A Conservation Breeding Handbook, American Livestock Breed Conservancy, 1995, Pgs. 80-85



Letter Re: Moving Females in SHTF Scenario

Dear HJL,

I’m a female and had some thoughts regarding C.B.’s letter on moving females. On one level, I was a little surprised that we needed special handling but agree that there are predators who do look for the most vulnerable victims out there, whether it’s TEOTWAWKI or not. I think my concern is that if someone is attempting disguise and the expectation is conveyed to them that they will be more vulnerable, it may pump up the fear level in them and that fear will show. I don’t think it is all that easy to truly disguise a female as a male, as we tend to have smaller and more delicate physical features. It’s also difficult to disguise a woman because of how she sits and postures herself. Many men will spread their bodies out to take up more space around them. We’ve all seen men who will spread out their arms across the back of an arm chair, spread their legs, and lean back. Women have often been taught not to spread out their legs and tend to keep their bodies a little more closed up, even crossing their legs. This closed posturing does make women appear even smaller and more vulnerable. To complete the disguise as C.B. proposes, it would require lessons to the women about making themselves larger in their posture and holding their bodies more confidently. (A lesson from the book, “Games Mother Never Taught You“.) A woman would need to make more direct eye contact as well. Obviously these are some generalizations and don’t fit every one, but we do tend to socialize men and women differently.

I admire C.B.’s protectiveness as a man; it’s a great quality. Why not take it a step further and train up those gals who would be in his group? Despite the idea that they might be outnumbered, it’s still a good idea. How about shooting lessons and karate lessons? I’ve seen young girls get their black belts! Boosting confidence this way can lesson their vulnerability. How about teaching them that it’s okay to risk rudeness when someone doesn’t have the best intention for them, or teaching them to trust their gut so they can avoid some situations? After all, our men folk can’t be there for every situation that arises in life.

What about installing a back seat/ bench seat that flips up and becomes a hiding spot for the gals in the back, if approaching a “check point”? Or what about, in the back seat upholstery, making a hidden crawl hole to the trunk?

I can’t wait to see other folk’s ideas on this! – Mrs. RLB