Odds ‘n Sods:

Keeping Your Powder Dry—How to Store Ammunition Using a FoodSaver. – R.F.

JWR Adds: Please note that ammunition should only be stored under a LIGHT vacuum! A strong vacuum can unseat bullets from cartridge cases. You can still use the FoodSaver bags, just seal them without the vacuum.

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Chief Eden: APD is ‘stuck’ with some officers. – T.P.

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Blackwater-type Mercenaries Drop from Unmarked Helicopters to Raid Legal Marijuana Gardens in California. – RBS

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5 Reasons to Expect Police Brutality to Get Worse Before it Gets Better. – G.R.

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Feminism has slain our protectors. – J.C.

HJL Adds: An excellent article. It falls right in line with Ann Barnhardt’s “The one about WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE”

Notes for Sunday – September 14, 2014

SurvivalBlog’s Backcountry Editor Mat Stein was recently interviewed about the solar flare threat: Beautiful Skies with Devastating Repercussions.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Protecting Your Home, BOL, and Supplies from Pests, by JC

Pest control is an industry that touches almost every part of the average person’s life. From the food we eat to the items we buy, each step along the process chain is protected in some way by pest control services. So what will happen in an event or breakdown scenario? Will all those Pest Control Operators (PCO’s) unselfishly leave their families to report to work along with the truck drivers and grocery store clerks?

The answer is “no”, of course not. That is why we prepare our supplies now. The coming dangers and breakdowns will effect so many aspects of what we take for granted, and that leaves us with the situation of protecting these supplies ourselves.

Be Safe– Read Labels and Directions

The label is the law when it comes to pesticides. Follow each label exactly. Supplement any product you buy with the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet), which is always available from the manufacturer for free and normally easy to find online in printable versions. The old school idea that “more is better” is not true in any way. In fact, with most of today’s modern products, over application can often lead to a less effective treatment. Always keep the appropriate PPE (personal protective equipment) on hand and follow the label directions on its use when mixing and applying these products.

Non-Chemical Control Methods

In any pest control program, you can break it down into two categories– chemical and non-chemical control methods. Let’s begin with the non-chemical options. Don’t underestimate the value of sealing up your storage areas to deny access to uninvited pests. Rodents, like mice, can fit through a hole the size of a dime, and rats need only a 1/2” space to squeeze into a structure. Ants and many species of roaches invade from the outside in search of food, moisture, and protection. Begin by making sure all doors and windows close and seal properly. Use caulk to seal around gaps and seams. Hardware cloth or metal screen can be used to cover larger openings, like foundation vents and roof-line areas. You will need to look at your structure from a perspective of a small pest’s eyes and make it as difficult as possible to get inside the building. The next step is to reduce all of the conducive conditions that pests like to be around. Organic clutter, like leaves, high grass against the foundation, and a buildup of mulch or landscaping material, makes it very attractive for pests. Reduce the clutter around the outside. Stacked wood along the outside wall can be a great hiding place for spiders, scorpions, and many other problematic insects. Old tires, flower pots, and children’s toys can hold water after a rain and if left for several days might produce thousands of mosquitoes to prey on your family. Think in terms of making a battlefield clearing between you and the pests. Trim back all bushes and shrubs at least 18” from your home structure, and cut back overhanging tree branches. Even your gutters, if left uncleaned, will hold moisture and is an often overlooked source of heavy insect infestations. Once you have the basic maintenance completed, let’s look at non-chemical control measures that are simple and effective for any infestation.

Sanitation – Any food source can feed an infestation and attract pests. Just the crumbs left behind after a quick lunch, or the grease left on the side of the stove, is enough to feed many insects for weeks and months. Make sure your cleaning regiment kicks into high gear.

Physical Removal – A vacuum can be the best tool you have right now to control these pests. Many PCO’s have special vacuums designed to wear like a backpack with long extension cords, but a home vacuum or shop vac can be just as effective. If you have access to power, get the vacuum going and suck up the pests. Physically removing as many of the insects means that there will be even fewer to breed and feed. Make sure you dump the bag or contents well away from your home immediately afterward to prevent the live pests from sneaking back out and into your home. This method works well for everything from spiders to centipedes and most any insect. It can even become a game for some of your younger household occupants. Sweeping them up can be almost as effective if power is not available.

Monitoring – This method includes a glue board with a very sticky substance for catching the pest. They should be placed where the pests are most common– corners of the room, by door openings, and even behind appliances or by the stored supplies themselves. There are larger ones for rodents that can be effective especially on mice. These devices will catch anything that crawls across them. The biggest benefit of this part of the program is to identify what pests are active. Then, you can better target that specific pest in your treatment. A quick helpful hint: If you or a pet gets stuck to the glue board, a simple way to remove it is too slowly rub vegetable oil where it is stuck; even pet hair will release easily.

Chemical Control Methods

Now it is time to start looking at chemical options. There are many myths surrounding pesticides and the effects they have on our environment and ourselves. Without getting too far down that road, let’s agree that each person must make an informed decision for their safety. Most of the products the professionals use are available to purchase by the consumer. Almost all the products used today in the residential pest control industry fall under the “General Use” category and are listed for use in food handling establishments, daycares, schools, kennels, and even hospitals.

To obtain these professional level products, a local do-it-yourself pest control store is probably not far away, or multiple online sources are available. Again, make sure you read and follow the label directions to get the best results. There will be a simple list of recommended products at the end of this section for your reference.

Treatments – When approaching a treatment, it is best to think in terms of layers or zones. A good exterior barrier treatment around the outside will help prevent insects from entering the structure. Then a targeted treatment of cracks and crevices inside the structure, making sure to get the plumbing and wiring access areas. Spot treatments around windows and doors or known high traffic areas can be an added benefit in prevention. These treatments are best accomplished with a hand pumped sprayer and the properly mixed product. Make sure to mix up only the amount needed to avoid having excess material left over sitting around unused. Please avoid “baseboard” spraying as was common many years ago. It is not effective and many products do not allow for that type of application per the label.

Once you have a basic barrier in place you can begin to make specific treatment decisions. Baits are a great way to control or prevent some of the most common interior infestations. Roaches and ants are by far the most common interior infestations in the U.S., and there are some quality baits designed specifically for these insects. Focus on the food and water sources, and find those cracks and crevices where they like to enter and hide. Do not use spray applications in the same areas as the baits, as it will make it ineffective.

Other products that can be a great help in treating are granules that are formulated for the exterior on the ground, soil, and grass. Use aerosols with a straw applicator for getting back into the nooks and crannies for the hard-to-reach areas and dusts for larger voids and longer-term control.

There are a few pests that deserve specific attention and details:

German Cockroach – This roach is an indoor breeder and is the one most commonly seen in large numbers in a structure. Vacuuming, baits, and spot residual pesticide treatments will be most effective for this but must be kept up regularly once an infestation gets established. This roach also drops an egg capsule and the baby’s (nymphs) will continue to hatch even after the adult is dead or removed, resulting in reinfestation and difficulties in getting quick control. Sanitation is critical to prevention and control.

Fleas, ticks, and chiggers – These biting insects can be prevented with a good quality granule treatment of the yard and exterior areas. Once inside, they can be controlled with general surface treatments of infested areas. Keeping pets outside would be suggested.

Rodents – Trapping is the most effective treatment. Rodenticides (poisons) might be recommended for exterior use or for larger infestations, but you run the risk of dead rodents ending up in wall voids and inaccessible areas. The standard spring snap traps are inexpensive and when set with a good bait, like peanut butter or bacon pieces, will work well. Proper trap placement is absolutely critical. Pathways and food sources are good options. Mice have a small range and may not go more than ten feet, so traps set in large numbers or placed in known activity areas will increase success.

Ants – Colonies can reach into the hundreds of thousands in number and are extremely mobile. Some species can pick up and move the entire colony in less than 24 hours. Baits work best for long-term control. For quick results in an emergency and to keep them out of an area you want protected, the best approach is a repellent pesticide application around the room or items you want to protect.

Stored product pests – Examples of these pests include the Indian Meal Moth and Saw Toothed Grain Beetles. Remove all contaminated food and any food items not completely sealed. Thoroughly clean the area of any food residue. Physically remove any live insects, and do a complete crack and crevice treatment with a residual aerosol and straw tip applicator. This will break the feeding and breeding cycle and should get control in just a matter of days.

Stinging insects – For wasps, yellow jackets, hornets, and bees, the nests will need to be eliminated to gain control. Physically removing them is an option. Also, treating them with dusts or aerosols will be effective. If the nest is hidden and isn’t accessible, multiple dust treatments into the entrance will be the most effective way to eliminate them.

Spiders – These are a difficult pest to control as they have a body structure that is designed to avoid many of the common applications of pesticides. Knocking down the webs, removing the spiders themselves, and reducing the other insects they use as food will be a good starting point.

Bedbugs – Of all the biting insects, this insect causes the most emotional reaction from modern Americans. At the time of this writing, bedbugs are not known to be disease vectors, meaning they don’t transmit any diseases to humans. Most of the products that were used in the 1930’s-50’s to get rid of bedbugs in the U.S. are no longer available to consumers or professionals. The current methods are a combination of pesticide applications, heat/steam treatments, and mattress encasements. Physical removal in a SHTF event will help keep them under control, as bedbugs are slow reproducers, sometimes laying as few as a dozen eggs each cycle. Unfortunately, once you get them, you will probably not completely eradicate them until such time as professional services are restored.

Since there are literally millions of insects, there is no way to cover them all. A basic rule of thumb is to break the breeding cycle, remove the conducive conditions, and keep sanitation at the best level possible.

Products to Keep on Hand

Below are several choices of name brand, professional-grade products available online that have a broad variety of insects they will help control, per the label directions. The prices listed are approximate and don’t include shipping fees you may encounter.

  1. A good broad-spectrum, residual pesticide that can be mixed with water for use with a hand sprayer: (Use for exterior barrier and spot treatments. These are concentrated and each container will make dozens of gallons of finished product.)

    Tempo SC Ultra (Bayer) – 8oz bottle: Approx. price $40.00

    Onslaught Microencapsulated Insecticide (MGK) – 16oz bottle: Approx. Price $50.00

    Suspend SC (Bayer) – 16oz bottle: Approx. price $40.00

  2. Aerosols: (Great for on-contact or crack and crevice treatments.)

    Cykick CS Aerosol (Whitmire Micro Gen) Residual Treatment. 1 can: Approx. Price $25.00

    565 Plus XLO Aerosol (Whitmire Micro Gen) This is an on-contact insecticide with no residual. 1 can Approx. Price $25.00

    Wasp freeze Aerosol (Whitmire Micro Gen) – This is “the gold standard” for stinging insects and the nests. 1 can Approx. Price $15.00

  3. Dusts: (Make sure to have a bellows or bulb duster for proper application to voids and inaccessible areas.

    Delta Dust (Bayer) 1 pound container Approx. Price $20.00

  4. Granules: (Best used on exterior ground areas; they can give months of protection.)

    Talstar PL (FMC) 25 pound bag: Approx. Price $30.00

    Delta Guard (Bayer) 20 pound bag: Approx. Price $35.00

  5. Baits: (Store these products away from the other pesticides, as they can become contaminated and lose their effectiveness.)

    Advion or Maxforce Roach gel bait – 30 gram syringe applicators: Approx. price $15.00 pack

    Advion or Maxforce Ant gel bait – 30 gram syringe applicators: Approx. price $15.00 pack

Equipment

Make sure the following equipment is dedicated solely for pest control use and do not use for other products for your garden or agricultural treatments:

  • Hand pump sprayer – A cheap plastic version may suffice for short-erm use, but a quality professional stainless steel tank with brass fittings and nozzle will last you a lifetime, with proper care and maintenance.
  • Bulb or bellows duster – These make dust applications very easy and are very low cost
  • Hand spreader – You can use the same style as you would use for broadcasting seed but keep a dedicated pest control one labeled so there is no mix up.
  • Mixing measuring cup – Plastic is fine to use but make sure it can measure small amounts of liquids.
  • Rat and mouse traps – Twenty of each should suffice, for most situations.
  • Glue boards – A case or two will last months, under normal conditions.

For a basic professional pest control set up, including equipment and product, you will be well under $400.00 in cost. If you compare that to the thousands of dollars you have in supplies that might be ruined by an infestation, the cost becomes minor and the ability to protect those valuables from four-, six-, and eight-legged predators is going to make a difference in your future.

The very last thing you will ever want to see is your supplies, which you have worked hard to set aside to save your family and friends, destroyed by an unplanned invasion of pests. Millions of pounds of food and supplies are destroyed every year due to these infestations. Also, contamination can lead to illness and death, and this is going on right now when health services are up and running. Anyone who has visited a third-world country knows the level of damage that pests can have on people’s daily lives. Just a little reading and a small investment in time and money can make this threat manageable.

**The author has over 15 years of experience in the pest control industry, is a licensed commercial trapper, and is currently a vice president of one of the Top 100 pest control companies in the U.S. The author has no financial interest in any of the above-listed companies or their products.

Other Resources

Reference materials and resources you might want to research:

  • Truman’s Scientific Guide – This is the pest control industry’s very best resource and is a wealth of knowledge. Many of the states’ required tests for professionals draw information from this book.
  • U.S. Department of Agriculture – This Department publishes some of the best free reference materials on pest control topics.
  • Your state’s Department of Agriculture – A specific state’s agency will have a wealth of knowledge available for the most common pests and their control for your area.

Letter Re: Fishing for Survival

Good morning. I’m an avid Survival Blog reader. I live in bush Alaska and live a largely subsistence life. I read this article with interest and would like to make a couple of suggestions in regards to fishing for survival. In my part of the country, I can legally use a gill net for subsistence purposes. This can either be done as a set net and checked later, or as a drift net, or seine. They are very efficient. Next would be a fish trap. This is a simple device that can be submerged in the water. The fish swim in and can not swim out. There are a number of ways to make these at home, out of a variety of materials, but here is a compact commercially-available one. Promar Collapsible Minnow Traps available from Cabelas or Amazon is a good one. I use the large one and it can also hold otter, mink, and muskrats in addition to fish. I know these two devices are not particularly portable, but when I think of procuring food in a survival situation. I think of energy expended verses energy gained. Both of these are very low-energy investments with the potential for a large gain. -Countrygirl

HJL Adds: It is important to remember, fishing for survival is different than fishing for sport. When fishing for survival, the rules go out the window. Nets, traps and other accouterments have a higher success rate than hooks. However, you must be aware of the local laws when practicing.

Economics and Investing:

A derivatives implosion was the black swan that ignited the global crisis in 2008. With the amount of total global derivatives now over a staggering 1.25 quadrillion dollars, there is no question that Greyerz is correct when he predicts this will eventually collapse the current financial system. It’s just a question of when it will begin and what the next trigger will be. This Terrifying Black Swan To Collapse Global Financial System . – J.W.

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America’s Poor, Deeper in Debt Than Ever

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The Fed Has A Big Surprise Waiting For You. – J.W.

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

How You Know The Time For More QE Has Come

More Americans Than Forecast File for Unemployment Benefits

No New Debt For Germany In 2015

If The Economy Is Recovering, Why Is The Labor Force Participation Rate At A 36 Year Low?

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“For God hath not called us unto uncleanness, but unto holiness. He therefore that despiseth, despiseth not man, but God, who hath also given unto us his holy Spirit.” – 1 Thessalonians 4:7-8 (KJV)

Notes for Saturday – September 13, 2014

13 September 1951 is the the birthday of President Salva Kiir Mayardit of South Sudan.

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If you are working on your pandemic and HAZMAT preps, Ready Made Resources is carrying the Hazarid decontamination system. You can decontaminate people, autos, or even entire houses with this, and it works on Molds, Germs, and Viruses. They will also include two Mountain House Pouches with each purchase if you mention SurvivalBlog when you order.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Trading in Precious Metals, by Kestrel

My butcher pulled me aside last fall, while I was in his shop dropping off a deer for processing. He had a gold ring with a diamond mounted in the center. He asked me what it was worth? I own a jewelry store and told him I would take it to the store, weigh it, and give him a price. He explained that a woman came in for some meat and couldn’t pay; she gave him the ring to hold with the promise to come back and pay him the $60 that she owed within the next week. It had been a few months, and she never came back. He was afraid that she had duped him.

I weighed the ring and measured the diamond. The next day I called and told him I would give him $130 for the ring. He gladly agreed, and I paid him cash less the price of the venison. It worked out very well for him, but he could have taken a few steps to better ensure he didn’t get cheated.

You may imagine trading in junk silver, food, and ammo in a post-apocalyptic world. Maybe that will work out okay for you, but millions of people haven’t put aside silver and gold coins, ammo, or food to use for trade. These folks will probably have jewelry and sterling silver items to use as trade. People are trading their old jewelry and silverware that they never use anymore right now, while the economy is in bad shape but still running. If the economy collapses, or falls even further than it has, even more people will need to get something useful from their metal.

The scenario I shared in opening the article is becoming more common every day. You might say that you just wouldn’t do it, because it’s not worth the hassle and risk of trading in people’s jewelry. That’s fine; you can stop reading now. For the rest of you, some basic equipment and knowledge of simple math is all that is needed.

Determining Metal Content

Look for stamping

The first thing to do when trading for old jewelry or silverware is determine the karat or “fineness” of the piece. Most pieces are stamped. A 10x jeweler’s loupe makes reading quality marks easier. (They are available for under $20; just be sure to get one that is “fully corrected”.) “Fineness” is simply a percentage of precious metal in the piece. For example, 585 fine is 58.5% precious metal. “Fine” metal is pure; fine gold is 99.9% or 99.99% gold. Here is a list of common karat marks in U.S. jewelry:

  • 10k (41.67%)
  • 14k (58.33%)
  • 14kP(58.33%)*
  • 18k (75.0%)
  • Ster (92.5%)**
  • 416 (fineness 41.6% gold)
  • 585 (fineness 58.5% gold)
  • 750 (fineness 75.0% gold)
  • 925 (fineness 92.5% silver)
  • 900pt (fineness 90.0% platinum)
  • 950pt (fineness 95.0% platinum)

    Other markings seen on metalwork are often maker’s marks (hallmarks). Things to stay away from are stampings that say “GF” often with a fraction of 1/20 or 1/12. This is gold filled and should not be given any metal value. “GE” of “HGE” are gold electroplate or heavy gold electroplate; there is no metal value in these. Old pieces sometimes are stamped “rolled gold plate”; again, there is no metal value. Also, stay away from anything that says “XXXXX Silver”. These are nickel silver. Often the stamp will say “German Silver” or “Mexican Silver”, but I’ve seen many other names in front of the silver stamp. There is no silver in these.

*The “P” after karat weight doesn’t stand for “plated”; it stands for “plumb”, as in exact.

**Sterling silver legally can be as low as 91.5% silver.

Verify metal content

Never trust the quality stamp, as there are way too many fakes out there. Some fakes are easy to spot. I had a bracelet in the shop yesterday that was stamped 14k. The plating was flaking off, and the color of the gold wasn’t right. It was sterling silver stamped 14k and plated. That one was easy to spot, but there are some good fakes out there. Also, be aware that gold can be alloyed to make just about any color including white, red, green, and blue. You will need, at the very least, acid for testing the metal. It should be noted that no test will tell the exact metal content of the piece, except a destructive assay.

Aqua regia is a time tested method for testing precious metals. To make aqua regia, mix one part nitric acid to three parts hydrochloric acid. If this isn’t something you are comfortable with, don’t worry; there are other methods of testing metals. To test with aqua regia, file a spot on the piece. (It doesn’t take much, just enough to remove any plating– usually one or two swipes with a needle file.) Put a drop of acid on the spot you just filed. If the spot starts to bubble and turn green, it’s a fake. Sterling silver will turn a cloudy cream color. Aqua regia should be washed off of anything it touches with lots of water.

Acid test kits are available. You can buy acids pre-mixed to dissolve common fineness of gold. Usually kits come with 10k, 14k, and 18k acids, and a streak plate or touchstone. A kit can be put together for under $30. Use is pretty simple.

  1. Rub the piece on the stone to leave a streak of metal.
  2. Rub a piece of known 14 karat gold on the stone. (Your wedding band would work, if it is 14k gold.) Try to use the same color of gold, if possible.
  3. Apply a drop of each type of acid to the metal streaks.
  4. Compare how the metal in the 14k streak reacts vs. the unknown streak.
  5. If it dissolves under the 10k acid, it is fake or very low karat; if it dissolves under the 14k acid, it is 10k; if under the 18k acid, it is 14k, et cetera.

Electronic testers are available, too. They are expensive and unnecessary. The ones I’ve used have worked well, but nothing is foolproof except an assay done by a refinery.

Silver can be tested with these acids, too. I advise you use the acid on some sterling and coin silver to see how it reacts. Compare this reaction to nickel silver. A rare earth (Niodymium) magnet is a must for testing silver. They can be bought locally at a tool or electronics store for a couple of dollars. There are many videos out there showing how the magnet drags on silver, without immediately falling off, which it does on many other metals. Get one and experiment with how the magnet works on different metals.

Weigh the piece

You will need a scale for this; there is no way around it and no substitute that I am aware of. The scale doesn’t have to cost a fortune. If you are a reloader, a grain scale works very well. A word of caution: Metals are weighed using TROY WEIGHT, not avoirdupois weight. If you have an avoirdupois scale, multiply avoir. Multiply avoirdupois ounces by .91146 to get troy ounces. Below is a chart of common conversions needed in weighing metals.

Change From:

To:

Multiply by:

Grams

pennyweight

.64301

Grams

oz troy

.03215

Pennyweight

gram

1.5552

Pennyweight

oz troy

.05

Oz troy

pennyweight

20

Oz troy

gram

31.1035

Grain

pennyweight

.0417

Grain

gram

.0648

Karat

grain

3.08647

Karat

pennyweight

.1286

Karat

gram

.2

Finding the Value

Now that we have a weight and a metal quality, multiply the weight by the percentage of precious metal in the piece. If a ring weighs 6.4dwt (pennyweight) and is determined to be 14k (58.33%), take 6.4 x .5833 = 3.73312dwt of fine gold. Then, convert 3.73312dwt to troy ounces by multiplying it by .05 to get .186656 ozt.

Now, find out what gold is going for. There are numerous websites that will give you metal prices updated by the minute. Coininfo.com is the one I use, but any of them will work. If gold is $1300/ozt, multiply .18665 x 1300 = 242.65. Therefore, the gold content in this ring is, at that time, valued at $242.65.

Making an Offer

Now that we know what the market value is of the gold, it’s time to make an offer. You can’t offer $242.65 for the above ring; here is why. You have to get rid of the ring to get money for it. You can send it to a refinery to be melted down and the refinery will write you a check or send you bullion in trade. You won’t get $242.65. You could take it to a local jeweler, coin shop, or pawn shop (GOD forbid), and see what they will give you for it; it won’t be $242.65. Alternatively, you can offer it for sale or trade at a swap meet, flea market, or in a classified ad. If you paid full price and then resell it, you could probably make some money on it, but you will need to hold onto it until someone wants it.

Always assume you will need to send it to a refinery or sell it to a coin/jewelry store. If you send your metal to a refinery, they will pay up to 95-96% of market, minus shipping. Local buyers will generally pay between 10% and 80% of market value. If you deal locally, shop around for the best deal.

If you are dealing with a refinery there are some things you should be aware of. First, it isn’t worth sending metal to a refinery unless you have a bunch of it, and the more you have the better return you will get. Most refineries have a payment schedule listed on their website explaining what fees and percentages are charged and paid. Also, you will probably need a business. Refineries don’t want to deal with the public. You will need to fill out an anti-money-laundering form, stating that you aren’t a criminal. Some refineries will hold your metal until you tell them to cash it out– generally, when the market hits a point you like.

Now back to making an offer. Along with the problem of getting rid of the piece, you need to worry about the metals market dropping. You can’t pay full price at $1300/ozt and then sell for 95% of a market that has dropped to $1250/ozt.

What if that 14k ring is really 13.4k? Simple testers won’t pick up a few tenths of a karat difference. In fact, legal regulations allow any gold piece with solder in it to be under-karated slightly, and if you are trading a lot in metals, a fake will slip by once in a while.

Sometimes, there are stones in jewelry– a crystal in an old watch. Sterling silverware is often filled with plaster or wax. So just determining the exact precious metal weight of a piece is often not possible.

I won’t tell you what percentage to offer. That is something you can decide on your own. I will say that you should offer 10-15% less market just to cover your butt against the above problems.

Here are some refineries I’ve used in the past with good results: Hoover and Strong, Maguire Strickland, Stebgo, and North American Metals.

Things to Watch Out For

In the U.S., gold below 10k can’t be stamped gold. However, there is a bunch of 8-9k gold out there– mostly from south of the border. Buy at your own risk.

You may come across 20-22k gold, as it is sometimes seen. It has a very rich color and comes from Europe and Asia, mostly.

A magnet will tell if the piece is steel; use it on every piece. If it sticks, it’s fake.

Platinum can be a little difficult to identify, if you haven’t played with it before. Platinum is heavy and soft. It is also very tenacious; it doesn’t like to be removed from itself. Drag a file across a piece of platinum, and it will bite and move with unexpected difficulty.

Silverware, candlesticks, bowls, and cups can be problematic. The bases of most of these are weighted with wax or shellac, and silver knives have steel blades and hollow handles that are filled with plaster. Getting a weight on these is impossible without destroying them. Spoons and forks are usually solid sterling. If it says “silverplate” or isn’t stamped “sterling”, it isn’t real.

What do you do with the gemstones in jewelry? I wouldn’t offer any money for stones in jewelry. Can you tell a cubic zirconia from a diamond? A synthetic from a real sapphire? What if the stone is scratched? How much can you sell the stones for and to whom will you sell them? I would offer to give the stones back if the seller wants them and they are easily removed. Prongs can be pulled back with fingernail clippers, if you are careful. Just always let the seller know there is a risk of breaking the stone upon removal.

If metal isn’t stamped, that doesn’t mean it isn’t gold or silver. Jewelry is often repaired, and in repairing (especially rings) the quality mark is removed.

I’m sure I don’t have to say this for anyone here, but if you are dealing with this kind of stuff on the street, be careful.

One day an opportunity may come your way involving “junk” precious metals. I hope this article gives you the confidence to profit from the situation.

Two Letters Re: LEO Medic

Hugh:

I just want to say “thank you” to this author for such an excellent series. I agree that they are the finest articles I have ever read on SurvivalBlog. As an office-based physician, I do not have the hands-on field experience that will prove so valuable in the future, and I think most physicians are in the same boat. So thanks so much for taking the time to educate all of us. I will read and re-read your articles, as they will save many lives.

Primary Care MD

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Just wanted to add to B.O.’s comment. I’m a former army combat medic, 101st Airborne in 1970 and did 10 years with the Army, ending up as the ward-master of an ICU (NCOIC or sergeant in charge) II picked up EMT while still on active duty (before Paramedics existed). I drove an ambulance until I got my LPN and worked at that while I got my RN. As an RN, I initially worked in ICU and after a few years, switched to ER. I’m now retired with 25 years as an RN. All told, I’ve spent about 45 years in patient care. LEO Medics letters were AWESOME! If I can add anything to this it would be my suggestion that folks frequent their local thrift stores. Keep an eye out for medical braces– knee, wrist, and ankle in particular. They work a lot better than elastic bandages but should be properly sized. It’s also a good idea to have a pair of crutches on hand. They are frequently in thrift stores for $5.00 to $10.00. and cost a lot more than that if purchased new. Properly adjusted, the top pad should be 2-3 inches below the armpit. The hand grip should allow a slight flex in the elbow. I would imagine there are Youtube videos for this and for applying braces. For B.O.s question on thermometers, he might want to consider rectal thermometers. The oral electronic ones work both ways but should be well cleaned after use. I’ll also add that when my dog was ill, I listened to his heart and was shocked by how irregular it was. I thought he was in atrial fibrillation. When I took him to the vet, he laughed and said all nurses get concerned when they listen to their dog’s heart beat and that sinus arrhythmias (irregular heartbeat) are normal for dogs. Once again, LEO Medic’s letters were AWESOME, and I feel that might be an understatement. WSB

Odds ‘n Sods:

Scary stuff! Video: Softest Target Ever? A Nuclear Plant Outside D.C. Is Virtually Unguarded – P.S.

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San Diego Unified School district has an MRAP?. – S.B.

o o o

Local legislators squash gun-grabbers, override governor’s veto. – B.B.

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Spain is Militarizing Against Citizens – The Coming Civil War?. – J.W.

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At the urging of a couple of readers, I watched the pilot episode of the new Utopia “reality” television series last night via online streaming. In my opinion, putting people who do not share a common faith and work ethic together in that artificial construct for 365 days is a recipe for sharp conflict and probably for starvation.

There will presumably be 15 mouths to feed. (Although I expect a few early departures of some participants.) Clearly, a few sacks of flour, a couple of jars of pickles, and the milk production of two cows won’t go very far. With just $5,000 available, they will be hard pressed to have enough calories to see them through the year. Buying sprouting seeds would be the best immediate use of some of that cash. They will also need to get lots of row crops in the ground, pronto! The availability of stacked hay bales, electricity, and clean running water were all providential gifts to the experiment. (However, will the latter two come with monthly bills, at Southern California rates? Yikes!) I suppose that if they can use their phone to somehow tap into Craigslist and Freecycle they might have a chance, but I assume that the series producers have laid down some strict rules on outside contact.

History is replete with stories of failed utopian social experiments. Most of them fail within a couple of years. Also, consider that most of those societies have been started by people with a common faith and a shared work ethic. The motley crew assembled for this series clearly lack those attributes, so unless this is all secretly rigged, I’d rate their chance of success at less than 5%.

A large scale hippie commune called “The Farm” did have some success for a few years in the 1970s but only with a lot of very hard work. (Slackers were sent packing.) The Farm’s population peaked at 1,400, but it is presently down to 175. And, not surprisingly, communal banking of private income was abandoned in the early 1980s.

Unless the Utopia series participants quickly find common ground and commit themselves to hard work, then they will live and learn. – JWR

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“The secret things belong unto the Lord our God: but those things which are revealed belong unto us and to our children for ever, that we may do all the words of this law.” – Deuteronomy 29:30 (KJV)