Scot’s Product Review: Sharp-Shoot-R Products

It was a dark and cluttered place. It was crowded. The children were dirty and uncared for. It looked as if their parents never cleaned them. They were streaked with charcoal. Someone had smeared molten plastic on some of them, while others had strips of lead and copper hanging on them. You could sense their dejection. If only someone would come to my gun safe and clean their barrels!

Okay, I’m exaggerating…a little. My usual approach to cleaning guns is to wipe them down with an oily rag and run one or two patches with a cleaner-lubricant-preservative (CLP) product through the barrel, before I store them after a range trip. Anything with a chrome barrel usually gets a couple of patches of Ed’s Red– a home brew cleaner that does a pretty good job on everything but copper deposits. It’s not as protective as CLP, hence the use on chromed barrels, which are more immune to rust. You can see the formula on Father Frog’s page. I do make a point of cleaning the mechanisms and lubing them, so I know they will function, but the barrels don’t get what they deserve. I put them away intending to get back and thoroughly clean them later in the week. Sometimes that happens but not as often as it should.

I don’t get back, because I really don’t like cleaning guns, especially their barrels. There are always other chores to be done. My wife isn’t crazy about me being in the garage when I ought to be with my family, and she is right on that point. A lot of these chemicals smell bad and feel icky. There are often ugly warnings on the labels. You really ought to wear nitrile gloves when using most of them, but I hate wearing gloves. Did I mention I find it boring? I should feel compelled to keep our guns clean, but other stuff and my bad attitude get in the way.

I can go on like this longer than anyone can stand, and I probably already have, so I better stop. What this means is that anytime I run into a product that claims to make gun cleaning faster and easier, I get very interested. SharpShoot-R Precision Products http://www.sharpshootr.com/ has some products that make such claims, and I decided to give a couple of them a try.

One of the special treats promised by SharpShoot-R is an end to bore brushing. One of the more exciting parts of gun cleaning is shoving a brush back and forth about 6,000 times for every round fired. To make it more even more awesome, according to some experts, you REALLY REALLY should only push the brush through the bore in one direction and take the brush off after it pops out the muzzle. Pull the rod back, reattach the brush after wetting it with solvent (don’t just dunk it in the bottle because that transfers dirt to your solvent), and then brush the bore again. Every 20 or so strokes with the brush, you probably should run a couple of wet patches through to get out the dirt you loosened with the brush. Then, you continue until no more dirt comes out. You probably have to let it soak for a couple of years during the process and then resume. Are we having fun yet?

Besides the fun factor, there is also the possibility of damaging the barrel with all this brushing. SharpShoot-R makes the very reasonable claim that the fewer times we run rods, brushes, and patches down the bore, the less likely it is to harm the barrel.

SharpShoot-R makes several products. The ones I am reviewing here are Wipe-Out, which is a foam you spray down the barrel. It is white and looks and feels like a low-quality shaving cream. It costs about $15 at Amazon. The other is Wipe-Out Accelerator, which is supposed to make Wipe-Out work faster and better. It’s a liquid that you apply to a patch that is then used to coat the bore before spraying it with Wipe-Out.

There are warnings to be issued. SharpShoot-R says its chemicals can damage an oil, varnish, or shellac stock finish. It is said to be safe with modern poly-type stock finishes along with metal finishes. There are some warnings about contact with skin and other safety matters, though they aren’t as terrifying as some I’ve read. The stuff doesn’t smell bad, which is a plus.

The first thing I decided to try it on was my shotgun. It has a smoothbore barrel intended for deer and turkey hunting. I use it mainly with buckshot and slugs. Almost all of the buckshot loads I use have the plastic cups that protect the shot as it goes down the barrel, so you get better patterns. The slugs are lead alloyed with other metals to make them harder. This ammo leaves layers and layers of lead and plastic that are tough to get out without lots of solvent and brushing. I don’t think I have gotten it spotless since I bought it about 20 years ago. I’ve done classes with it, and since it is fun to shoot, I use it whenever I can afford shells. It’s had a lot of rounds out the tube. It was shamefully full of fouling, so it was a good subject to test the promise of a brush-free process.

I should point out here that Wipe-Out does not claim to be a lead or plastic solvent, but they say it will soften lead enough for you to push it out with a tight patch. They add that it will work its way under plastic in shotgun barrels, so that too can be pushed out. They do make a specific lead solvent, but I wasn’t able to locate any for this test. Since I shoot a lot of lead bullets in handguns, I plan to test it and will report when I do.

The directions say to run a patch of the accelerator through the bore and then spray it with Wipe-Out until the foam starts coming out the other end. You can use the included cone attachment from the muzzle or get a little tube and do if from the breech. It takes about a one to two second burst to fill the barrel with foam. The foam breaks down and leaves a solution adhering to the bore. They logically say to keep the barrel horizontal so it doesn’t all run out. You then go away for an hour and write copy for the blog. Return and push some patches through. If they stay clean, life is good.

Proof that sin is not rewarded, my patches came out dark gray and really ugly. Wipe-Out color codes your patches, by the way. If they are grey, like mine, you have powder fouling in the barrel. If they are blue, you have copper. If they are tan, you have carbon. When I looked through the barrel, it was obvious there were many layers of garbage in it. SharpShoot-R makes it very clear that a badly fouled gun (what, mine?) is likely to need multiple treatments, so I wasn’t surprised.

I had actually skipped the Accelerator on the first try as I wondered if one could get by without it. The second try, I used it, and I got a lot more fouling out, but still I had no clean patches. I could still see lots of garbage. Sigh. SharpShoot-R suggests an overnight soak for this sort of problem, and that’s what I gave it.

On day two, I still got dirt out. I was starting to see bits of lead on the patches, too. I could, however, now see some shiny barrel in between the layers of crud, and I began to realize just how bad I let this one get.

While the barrel was soaking, I let Wipe-Out work on some of the action parts. There are some gas rings that get a carbon and lead up and are usually a pain to clean. The carbon came right off. I did brush a bit to get the lead off, but the rings wound up cleaner than I’ve seen them since they were new. They were close to pristine. The magazine tube they ride around also picks up carbon and lead, and it cleaned much more easily than I remember ever happening. The lead (think solder) did need a little brushing, but the carbon just wiped off.

By day three, I was still getting dirty patches. Sharp-Shoot-R warns this is likely with neglected guns, so I was getting what I deserved, sigh. I decided to violate the no-brush plan and used some Ed’s Red to brush the barrel. One of the components of Ed’s Red is acetone, which is supposed to dissolve plastic wadding, which I feared was slowing down the Wipe-Out. I got the barrel pretty wet with Ed’s and brushed it 20 times. Tons of dirt and lead came out– more than I had ever gotten out before. It was obvious that the Wipe-Out had done a major job of loosening up the fouling, and I could see a lot of shiny barrel. Alas, I could also still see garbage, so I dried it out and hit it again with Accelerator and Wipe-Out.

After a long day’s soak, the patches still came out dirty, again showing gray powder residue and silver pieces of lead. I again decided to give it some more Ed’s and brushing; even more grime and lead came out than the first time. The inside was far cleaner and shinier. I was encouraged and decided to give it another night’s soak with Accelerator and Wipe-Out. This was the cleanest this barrel has been for at least 15 years. I wondered if maybe I could get it immaculate.

On the morning of day four, I ran a patch through and not much came out. I did give it some more Ed’s Red and about ten strokes with the brush. The Ed’s Red got very little extra out. The barrel looked good, but to be sure, I dried it and gave it another coat of Accelerator followed by Wipe-Out.

I came back about eight hours later, and a clean patch came out. I gave it some more Ed’s and ten more strokes and really couldn’t get anything else out. The barrel looked clean and mostly shiny. It always had a couple of rough spots, probably from machining at the factory, and I could not expect cleaners to fix that. I then did something I usually loath to do, but I figured if there was anything left, this would get it out and show whether Wipe-Out was a success. I took some 0000 steel wool and wrapped a brush with it, soaked it with Ed’s, and gave the barrel several strokes. This is a common trick used by clay bird shooters, but it makes me nervous to use something that strong. The patches afterwards, however, came out clean. I began to wonder if I had actually gotten it perfectly clean, but decided to give Wipe-Out and Accelerator two more hours soak time to see if anything else came out. It didn’t, much to my amazement. It was clean at last!

Wipe-Out was a tremendous help in getting this barrel clean. I have worked a lot harder on it several times and not come anywhere close to clean, before giving up in frustration, which is what allowed the fouling to get so thick. I do wonder if I had had more patience whether Wipe-Out would have done the job alone, but I think the brushing with Ed’s got me there faster.

My next test was on an Enfield No. 4 Mk 1 rifle. This was the standard issue of the British Army in 1941, and my sample was probably made between 1941 and 1945. I don’t know how it was used between then and now. I got it from a widow, and the bore was very nasty. The friend who brokered the deal has a borescope, so I got a good look at the inside of the barrel. It was very ugly and looked a bit like it had a layer of peeling paint in it. I discovered a similar appearing layer inside the magazine and on other small parts, and I suspected it was some sort of rust inhibitor that had been slathered over the rifle and had since dried out.

I had already spent a bunch of time cleaning it and felt I was pretty close, if not there. I had used a plethora of solvents and cleaners on it. First up was Ed’s Red, along with a bunch of brushing and many wet patches. It was still dirty, but I was making progress. I then tried a well-respected commercial cleaner that does well on copper and other fouling. When it pulls copper out of the barrel, the patches turn blue-green, and I didn’t see much of that, so I began to suspect that the barrel was actually not too dirty underneath the coating of gunk. After a bunch more patching and brushing and soaking in solvent, I cleaned it with Ed’s Red to get the other solvent out, as I’m told that it isn’t good to mix chemicals. Since Ed’s is pretty benign compared to many others, I figure it is good for removing stronger chemicals.

Next came a commercial ammonia-based solvent, noted for copper removal. It also gives you blue-green patches as it pulls out copper. Again, there was no real evidence of copper, though it got yet more gunk out.

I was still seeing stuff in the groves and wanted it gone, so I dug out a commercial, abrasive paste. It is claimed that it can’t damage barrels, but I’m leery of abrasives, even though this one is a very effective cleaner. I don’t use it much and reserve if for hard jobs that aren’t responding to other treatments. I did a bunch of scrubbing with it and then used Ed’s Red to remove the paste from the barrel. While I had made a bunch of progress before this, I finally started seeing a fairly smooth and shiny barrel with clean patches coming out the muzzle.

In case you are wondering why I used so many different products, it is because I have found that sometimes one product just works better than another on a particular bit of fouling. Perhaps some powders create a different problem to remove than others. The same could hold true for different types of bullet jackets. Often using one solvent and then another seems to break down the layers of fouling. I’m not sure of the why, but I know I often get better results with this approach. I always like to start with the inexpensive homemade Ed’s Red. It removes a lot of debris, so there is less for the expensive, store-bought stuff to deal with, which is what I mainly depend on to remove copper or lead fouling.

I hope this description of cleaning explains how clean the Enfield should have been. One of the claims from SharpShoot-R is that you can take a gun you have pronounced clean and still get more out with their products. I figured the Enfield was, despite its age, the closest thing I had to a clean gun. Ah well, so it goes. After an hour of just Wipe-Out, without using Accelerator beforehand, a nasty patch came out. Interestingly, this patch, along with being saturated with gray-colored solvent with a hint of blue, had a bunch of small flecks that looked like tiny pieces of paint. I began to wonder if they actually might have painted the inside. They use paint for the exterior finish, so why not inside? The interior of the bore was definitely brighter and smoother than it was before. It had appeared to have what could have been some pitting in the grooves, but the grooves were much better now, so what looked like pitting might have been debris stuck in the barrel.

Okay, so on went a coat of Accelerator, followed with another whoosh of Wipe-Out foam down the barrel. This time, it stayed on overnight. After the soak, I got another dirty patch, but it was a lot better than before. Treatment three appeared to be the winner. The patches that came out this time were clean.

Figuring that turnabout is fair play, I decided to see if Wipe-Out could stand against its own challenge, and I gave the bore a cleaning with Ed’s Red. I ran three wet patches through and then gave it 20 strokes with a wet brush followed with three more wet patches. The first wet patches came out clean, but after the brushing, the next patch had black stuff on it. Surprisingly, though, the following wet patches were clean, which really surprised me. I had expected more dirt. I let the barrel soak with the Ed’s Red for about 15 minutes and dry patched it. Those patches came out clean, which was a big surprise.

I was not surprised that using another solvent got out more dirt. I think it is almost impossible to get everything out of a barrel and that brushing will always bring something out. What surprised me, though, is that so little came out. My bottom line here is that not only did Wipe-Out do a good job of cleaning this barrel, it got a lot of stuff out that didn’t come out during an exhaustive cleaning. I was impressed.

My final effort was a barrel from a 1911. It had about 200 rounds of lead bullets through it. That’s not very dirty by my standards, but there was enough to be a fair test, since the bullets I have been using lately are soft and guilty of a lot of leading. This time I did start with the Accelerator, as I wanted to finish this article, and I need my bench for some other chores. A one-hour soak got out a bunch of stuff, but now I could clearly see a significant lead buildup. Argh. It needed an overnight soak.

The next morning, dirty gray patches came out with pieces of lead. The buildup was clearly reduced. I wanted to get this done, though, so I ran three wet patches of Ed’s through it. I was amazed to see a lot of lead come out. That usually doesn’t happen with just Ed’s. The Wipe-Out had to have loosened the lead, while the Ed’s helped get it out. I gave the bore two strokes with a tight brush and three more wet patches of Ed’s. The last came out clean. I could still see a little bit of lead in the bore, so I decided to see if Wipe-Out could get it out. I put in some Accelerator and sprayed in some more Wipe-Out. After about three hours, I got clean patches and could no longer see any lead. I have gotten this one this clean before, but only after a whole lot more work.

Sharp-Shoot-R says you should get five good cleanings out of the can of Wipe-Out, but that depends on how dirty your gun is. If you keep them cleaner than I do, it should go a lot further. You will be using a lot fewer patches and won’t need many brushes, so that saves some loot. The Accelerator is supposed to handle several cans of Wipe-Out, so it goes a lot further. I should point out that they also make a liquid version of Wipe-Out called Patch-Out. It promises to be more economical. It also won’t be as messy. The foam from Wipe-Out expands and can ooze out of the barrel at both ends, winding up on the floor, on the bench, or in the action. I’m not keen on that. The liquid, therefore, sounds better to me, but I wasn’t able to find it locally. I plan to order some and test it, too.

There are a lot of solvents on the market. At the moment, Brownells sells 51 bore solvents, 8 pastes, and 12 other solvents on their website. I suspect the reason there are so many is that no one has come up with the perfect one. I’ve tried about 15 or so in my lifetime. I have only kept four around, because most of them didn’t work any better than what I was used to. I’m impressed enough with Wipe-Out to add it to my cleaning kit. It isn’t “insta-clean”, alas. You are still doing some work and some waiting. I think there is still room for a brush in your kit and at least one other solvent for general cleaning. I’m partial to Ed’s Red. It’s inexpensive and works well on powder and plastic fouling. I keep an ammo can full of it and just drop stuff in to soak as well as brushing or swabbing receivers out with it. Ed’s and the brush clearly helped get the shotgun and 1911 barrels clean, though I am sure most of the heavy lifting came from Wipe-Out. I’ve never had Ed’s alone work anywhere nearly as well on lead fouling.

I want to try the other Sharp-Shoot-R products, particularly the one for lead. I think Sharp-Shoot-R has some good things going and will help me keep my guns cleaner with less work. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie



Recipe of the Week: Turkey Soup, by P.H.

Ingredients:

  • 1 leftover turkey carcass (from a 10- to 12-pound turkey)
  • 2 quarts water
  • 1 medium onion, halved
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 cup chopped carrots
  • 1 cup uncooked long grain rice
  • 1/3 cup chopped celery
  • 1/4 cup chopped onion
  • 1 can (10-3/4 ounces) condensed cream of chicken or cream of mushroom soup, undiluted

Directions:

  1. Place the turkey carcass in a stockpot; add the water, onion, salt and bay leaves. Slowly bring to a boil over low heat; cover and simmer for 2 hours.
  2. Remove carcass; cool. Strain broth and skim off fat. Discard onion and bay leaves. Return broth to the pan. Add the carrots, rice, celery and chopped onion; cover and simmer until rice and vegetables are tender.
  3. Remove turkey from bones; discard bones and cut turkey into bite-size pieces. Add turkey and cream soup to broth; heat through. Yield: 8-10 servings (about 2 quarts).

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlogreaders? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Letter Re: An Essential Prep, The Outhouse

There seems to be a general misunderstanding about what constitutes a septic system. I keep reading about the need to pump them out annually or some such. If you don’t mistreat a properly designed system by flushing materials that don’t belong there, it should work for decades with no maintenance. If it needs to be pumped out every year, you must have some kind of storage system, not a septic system, or maybe you’re using toilet paper that doesn’t break down. There is a difference, and the glamorous TV ads ignore the needs of country folks. Also our state agency says additives are neither necessary nor desirable. This is a marvelous system that depends on nature and two types of bacteria, which automatically appear naturally. You can drill your well 50 feet from the lateral lines. Anyway, my reason for writing is regarding MER’s comment about using the septic system in a grid down situation. It’s perfect for that, and he (she) is smart to plan ahead to provide a convenient way to utilize it. I would add that you don’t need water pressure to operate the indoor toilet stool. My barn is slightly uphill and the roof is used to capture rain water for my garden. It isn’t and won’t be potable water because of the galvanized roof, but you don’t need potable water for flushing. I am prepared to run a hose from one of the ground-level barrels to the input line on the toilet stool. I will have about two feet of pressure head at empty, which will probably mean a pretty slow fill with the 50+ feet of small hose. I could raise a barrel or plan on a larger hose (requiring much money for larger hose that withstands freezing), but rapid fill is usually not needed. I like the suggested idea of an outhouse because of the ventilation problem indoors. I have an input to my system for use as a camp toilet dump station without having to do it indoors. It should easily convert to an outhouse, and I will probably at least gather materials in advance of need. But I also like the thought of a normally-functioning indoor facility in cold weather, accomplished so easily with a simple hose. Obviously, if it gets too cold, the line will freeze and it will be time for a water bucket fill, which I anticipated, or an outhouse.

For those who aren’t familiar with how far away to locate the outhouse, the standard distance is to place it so it is too close in the summer and too far away in the winter. – Susan.

HJL Responds: There are a variety of reasons that pumping your septic system every year is recommended, other than just financially supporting your local septic pumping company:

  1. Many modern cleaning chemicals contain things that harm septic systems. Even those that say “safe for septic systems” are generally talking about septic systems that are pumped every year. Finding efficient cleaners that do not contain bleach can be a challenge. It only takes a small about of bleach to destroy the bacteria cultures in a system. In our own house, we occasionally use such products, simply because we like white porcelain.
  2. The septic tank is more than just a storage facility. Proper operation depends upon having sufficient capacity so that solids stirred up from flushing or draining operations have an opportunity to settle out to the bottom before traveling to the drain field. This means that the working depth of sludge in a five-foot tall tank may only be one foot. If the sludge gets deeper than one foot, it really needs to be pumped out.
  3. After waiting years to pump, the sludge may harden into a concrete-like mass, requiring extra labor to remove. If taken care of regularly, the sludge can be pumped in a matter of minutes, but you will pay dearly if the septic pumper has to chip away at the sludge.
  4. Most modern houses dump the laundry into the septic tank. In addition to the bleaches and other chemicals that are not healthy, very few washers actually trap all of the clothing fibers. Most just flush them right into the septic system. All clothing fibers cause issues. It takes a very long time for natural fibers, like linen or cotton, to break down, and synthetics never will.
  5. Septic systems, by design, are supposed to be pumped regularly. That is the whole point of the concrete tank. Pumping every year may be overkill, but waiting 10 years will get you in trouble. Just be thankful that we have giant vacuum trucks to do the job, rather than having to do it by the bucketful.
  6. If you have killed your septic system by using bleach or other chemicals, you will generally know, because it will start smelling foul. If you smell the “septic” smell from the vents on the roof when you flush the toilet, it’s dead. It will start back up on it’s own, but you can hasten the revitalization by flushing 1/4 cup of yeast or septic renewal down the toilet.

In addition, the distance between your septic and well depends on the type of soil you have as well as the depth of your well, and the sealing of the casing. Sometimes it is only 50 feet, and sometimes it is several hundred feet. Check with your local county extension or code enforcement to know for sure.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Keeping Your Powder Dry—How to Store Ammunition Using a FoodSaver. – R.F.

JWR Adds: Please note that ammunition should only be stored under a LIGHT vacuum! A strong vacuum can unseat bullets from cartridge cases. You can still use the FoodSaver bags, just seal them without the vacuum.

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Chief Eden: APD is ‘stuck’ with some officers. – T.P.

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Blackwater-type Mercenaries Drop from Unmarked Helicopters to Raid Legal Marijuana Gardens in California. – RBS

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5 Reasons to Expect Police Brutality to Get Worse Before it Gets Better. – G.R.

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Feminism has slain our protectors. – J.C.

HJL Adds: An excellent article. It falls right in line with Ann Barnhardt’s “The one about WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE





Notes for Sunday – September 14, 2014

SurvivalBlog’s Backcountry Editor Mat Stein was recently interviewed about the solar flare threat: Beautiful Skies with Devastating Repercussions.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Protecting Your Home, BOL, and Supplies from Pests, by JC

Pest control is an industry that touches almost every part of the average person’s life. From the food we eat to the items we buy, each step along the process chain is protected in some way by pest control services. So what will happen in an event or breakdown scenario? Will all those Pest Control Operators (PCO’s) unselfishly leave their families to report to work along with the truck drivers and grocery store clerks?

The answer is “no”, of course not. That is why we prepare our supplies now. The coming dangers and breakdowns will effect so many aspects of what we take for granted, and that leaves us with the situation of protecting these supplies ourselves.

Be Safe– Read Labels and Directions

The label is the law when it comes to pesticides. Follow each label exactly. Supplement any product you buy with the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet), which is always available from the manufacturer for free and normally easy to find online in printable versions. The old school idea that “more is better” is not true in any way. In fact, with most of today’s modern products, over application can often lead to a less effective treatment. Always keep the appropriate PPE (personal protective equipment) on hand and follow the label directions on its use when mixing and applying these products.

Non-Chemical Control Methods

In any pest control program, you can break it down into two categories– chemical and non-chemical control methods. Let’s begin with the non-chemical options. Don’t underestimate the value of sealing up your storage areas to deny access to uninvited pests. Rodents, like mice, can fit through a hole the size of a dime, and rats need only a 1/2” space to squeeze into a structure. Ants and many species of roaches invade from the outside in search of food, moisture, and protection. Begin by making sure all doors and windows close and seal properly. Use caulk to seal around gaps and seams. Hardware cloth or metal screen can be used to cover larger openings, like foundation vents and roof-line areas. You will need to look at your structure from a perspective of a small pest’s eyes and make it as difficult as possible to get inside the building. The next step is to reduce all of the conducive conditions that pests like to be around. Organic clutter, like leaves, high grass against the foundation, and a buildup of mulch or landscaping material, makes it very attractive for pests. Reduce the clutter around the outside. Stacked wood along the outside wall can be a great hiding place for spiders, scorpions, and many other problematic insects. Old tires, flower pots, and children’s toys can hold water after a rain and if left for several days might produce thousands of mosquitoes to prey on your family. Think in terms of making a battlefield clearing between you and the pests. Trim back all bushes and shrubs at least 18” from your home structure, and cut back overhanging tree branches. Even your gutters, if left uncleaned, will hold moisture and is an often overlooked source of heavy insect infestations. Once you have the basic maintenance completed, let’s look at non-chemical control measures that are simple and effective for any infestation.

Sanitation – Any food source can feed an infestation and attract pests. Just the crumbs left behind after a quick lunch, or the grease left on the side of the stove, is enough to feed many insects for weeks and months. Make sure your cleaning regiment kicks into high gear.

Physical Removal – A vacuum can be the best tool you have right now to control these pests. Many PCO’s have special vacuums designed to wear like a backpack with long extension cords, but a home vacuum or shop vac can be just as effective. If you have access to power, get the vacuum going and suck up the pests. Physically removing as many of the insects means that there will be even fewer to breed and feed. Make sure you dump the bag or contents well away from your home immediately afterward to prevent the live pests from sneaking back out and into your home. This method works well for everything from spiders to centipedes and most any insect. It can even become a game for some of your younger household occupants. Sweeping them up can be almost as effective if power is not available.

Monitoring – This method includes a glue board with a very sticky substance for catching the pest. They should be placed where the pests are most common– corners of the room, by door openings, and even behind appliances or by the stored supplies themselves. There are larger ones for rodents that can be effective especially on mice. These devices will catch anything that crawls across them. The biggest benefit of this part of the program is to identify what pests are active. Then, you can better target that specific pest in your treatment. A quick helpful hint: If you or a pet gets stuck to the glue board, a simple way to remove it is too slowly rub vegetable oil where it is stuck; even pet hair will release easily.

Chemical Control Methods

Now it is time to start looking at chemical options. There are many myths surrounding pesticides and the effects they have on our environment and ourselves. Without getting too far down that road, let’s agree that each person must make an informed decision for their safety. Most of the products the professionals use are available to purchase by the consumer. Almost all the products used today in the residential pest control industry fall under the “General Use” category and are listed for use in food handling establishments, daycares, schools, kennels, and even hospitals.

To obtain these professional level products, a local do-it-yourself pest control store is probably not far away, or multiple online sources are available. Again, make sure you read and follow the label directions to get the best results. There will be a simple list of recommended products at the end of this section for your reference.

Treatments – When approaching a treatment, it is best to think in terms of layers or zones. A good exterior barrier treatment around the outside will help prevent insects from entering the structure. Then a targeted treatment of cracks and crevices inside the structure, making sure to get the plumbing and wiring access areas. Spot treatments around windows and doors or known high traffic areas can be an added benefit in prevention. These treatments are best accomplished with a hand pumped sprayer and the properly mixed product. Make sure to mix up only the amount needed to avoid having excess material left over sitting around unused. Please avoid “baseboard” spraying as was common many years ago. It is not effective and many products do not allow for that type of application per the label.

Once you have a basic barrier in place you can begin to make specific treatment decisions. Baits are a great way to control or prevent some of the most common interior infestations. Roaches and ants are by far the most common interior infestations in the U.S., and there are some quality baits designed specifically for these insects. Focus on the food and water sources, and find those cracks and crevices where they like to enter and hide. Do not use spray applications in the same areas as the baits, as it will make it ineffective.

Other products that can be a great help in treating are granules that are formulated for the exterior on the ground, soil, and grass. Use aerosols with a straw applicator for getting back into the nooks and crannies for the hard-to-reach areas and dusts for larger voids and longer-term control.

There are a few pests that deserve specific attention and details:

German Cockroach – This roach is an indoor breeder and is the one most commonly seen in large numbers in a structure. Vacuuming, baits, and spot residual pesticide treatments will be most effective for this but must be kept up regularly once an infestation gets established. This roach also drops an egg capsule and the baby’s (nymphs) will continue to hatch even after the adult is dead or removed, resulting in reinfestation and difficulties in getting quick control. Sanitation is critical to prevention and control.

Fleas, ticks, and chiggers – These biting insects can be prevented with a good quality granule treatment of the yard and exterior areas. Once inside, they can be controlled with general surface treatments of infested areas. Keeping pets outside would be suggested.

Rodents – Trapping is the most effective treatment. Rodenticides (poisons) might be recommended for exterior use or for larger infestations, but you run the risk of dead rodents ending up in wall voids and inaccessible areas. The standard spring snap traps are inexpensive and when set with a good bait, like peanut butter or bacon pieces, will work well. Proper trap placement is absolutely critical. Pathways and food sources are good options. Mice have a small range and may not go more than ten feet, so traps set in large numbers or placed in known activity areas will increase success.

Ants – Colonies can reach into the hundreds of thousands in number and are extremely mobile. Some species can pick up and move the entire colony in less than 24 hours. Baits work best for long-term control. For quick results in an emergency and to keep them out of an area you want protected, the best approach is a repellent pesticide application around the room or items you want to protect.

Stored product pests – Examples of these pests include the Indian Meal Moth and Saw Toothed Grain Beetles. Remove all contaminated food and any food items not completely sealed. Thoroughly clean the area of any food residue. Physically remove any live insects, and do a complete crack and crevice treatment with a residual aerosol and straw tip applicator. This will break the feeding and breeding cycle and should get control in just a matter of days.

Stinging insects – For wasps, yellow jackets, hornets, and bees, the nests will need to be eliminated to gain control. Physically removing them is an option. Also, treating them with dusts or aerosols will be effective. If the nest is hidden and isn’t accessible, multiple dust treatments into the entrance will be the most effective way to eliminate them.

Spiders – These are a difficult pest to control as they have a body structure that is designed to avoid many of the common applications of pesticides. Knocking down the webs, removing the spiders themselves, and reducing the other insects they use as food will be a good starting point.

Bedbugs – Of all the biting insects, this insect causes the most emotional reaction from modern Americans. At the time of this writing, bedbugs are not known to be disease vectors, meaning they don’t transmit any diseases to humans. Most of the products that were used in the 1930’s-50’s to get rid of bedbugs in the U.S. are no longer available to consumers or professionals. The current methods are a combination of pesticide applications, heat/steam treatments, and mattress encasements. Physical removal in a SHTF event will help keep them under control, as bedbugs are slow reproducers, sometimes laying as few as a dozen eggs each cycle. Unfortunately, once you get them, you will probably not completely eradicate them until such time as professional services are restored.

Since there are literally millions of insects, there is no way to cover them all. A basic rule of thumb is to break the breeding cycle, remove the conducive conditions, and keep sanitation at the best level possible.

Products to Keep on Hand

Below are several choices of name brand, professional-grade products available online that have a broad variety of insects they will help control, per the label directions. The prices listed are approximate and don’t include shipping fees you may encounter.

  1. A good broad-spectrum, residual pesticide that can be mixed with water for use with a hand sprayer: (Use for exterior barrier and spot treatments. These are concentrated and each container will make dozens of gallons of finished product.)

    Tempo SC Ultra (Bayer) – 8oz bottle: Approx. price $40.00

    Onslaught Microencapsulated Insecticide (MGK) – 16oz bottle: Approx. Price $50.00

    Suspend SC (Bayer) – 16oz bottle: Approx. price $40.00

  2. Aerosols: (Great for on-contact or crack and crevice treatments.)

    Cykick CS Aerosol (Whitmire Micro Gen) Residual Treatment. 1 can: Approx. Price $25.00

    565 Plus XLO Aerosol (Whitmire Micro Gen) This is an on-contact insecticide with no residual. 1 can Approx. Price $25.00

    Wasp freeze Aerosol (Whitmire Micro Gen) – This is “the gold standard” for stinging insects and the nests. 1 can Approx. Price $15.00

  3. Dusts: (Make sure to have a bellows or bulb duster for proper application to voids and inaccessible areas.

    Delta Dust (Bayer) 1 pound container Approx. Price $20.00

  4. Granules: (Best used on exterior ground areas; they can give months of protection.)

    Talstar PL (FMC) 25 pound bag: Approx. Price $30.00

    Delta Guard (Bayer) 20 pound bag: Approx. Price $35.00

  5. Baits: (Store these products away from the other pesticides, as they can become contaminated and lose their effectiveness.)

    Advion or Maxforce Roach gel bait – 30 gram syringe applicators: Approx. price $15.00 pack

    Advion or Maxforce Ant gel bait – 30 gram syringe applicators: Approx. price $15.00 pack

Equipment

Make sure the following equipment is dedicated solely for pest control use and do not use for other products for your garden or agricultural treatments:

  • Hand pump sprayer – A cheap plastic version may suffice for short-erm use, but a quality professional stainless steel tank with brass fittings and nozzle will last you a lifetime, with proper care and maintenance.
  • Bulb or bellows duster – These make dust applications very easy and are very low cost
  • Hand spreader – You can use the same style as you would use for broadcasting seed but keep a dedicated pest control one labeled so there is no mix up.
  • Mixing measuring cup – Plastic is fine to use but make sure it can measure small amounts of liquids.
  • Rat and mouse traps – Twenty of each should suffice, for most situations.
  • Glue boards – A case or two will last months, under normal conditions.

For a basic professional pest control set up, including equipment and product, you will be well under $400.00 in cost. If you compare that to the thousands of dollars you have in supplies that might be ruined by an infestation, the cost becomes minor and the ability to protect those valuables from four-, six-, and eight-legged predators is going to make a difference in your future.

The very last thing you will ever want to see is your supplies, which you have worked hard to set aside to save your family and friends, destroyed by an unplanned invasion of pests. Millions of pounds of food and supplies are destroyed every year due to these infestations. Also, contamination can lead to illness and death, and this is going on right now when health services are up and running. Anyone who has visited a third-world country knows the level of damage that pests can have on people’s daily lives. Just a little reading and a small investment in time and money can make this threat manageable.

**The author has over 15 years of experience in the pest control industry, is a licensed commercial trapper, and is currently a vice president of one of the Top 100 pest control companies in the U.S. The author has no financial interest in any of the above-listed companies or their products.

Other Resources

Reference materials and resources you might want to research:

  • Truman’s Scientific Guide – This is the pest control industry’s very best resource and is a wealth of knowledge. Many of the states’ required tests for professionals draw information from this book.
  • U.S. Department of Agriculture – This Department publishes some of the best free reference materials on pest control topics.
  • Your state’s Department of Agriculture – A specific state’s agency will have a wealth of knowledge available for the most common pests and their control for your area.


Letter Re: Fishing for Survival

Good morning. I’m an avid Survival Blog reader. I live in bush Alaska and live a largely subsistence life. I read this article with interest and would like to make a couple of suggestions in regards to fishing for survival. In my part of the country, I can legally use a gill net for subsistence purposes. This can either be done as a set net and checked later, or as a drift net, or seine. They are very efficient. Next would be a fish trap. This is a simple device that can be submerged in the water. The fish swim in and can not swim out. There are a number of ways to make these at home, out of a variety of materials, but here is a compact commercially-available one. Promar Collapsible Minnow Traps available from Cabelas or Amazon is a good one. I use the large one and it can also hold otter, mink, and muskrats in addition to fish. I know these two devices are not particularly portable, but when I think of procuring food in a survival situation. I think of energy expended verses energy gained. Both of these are very low-energy investments with the potential for a large gain. -Countrygirl

HJL Adds: It is important to remember, fishing for survival is different than fishing for sport. When fishing for survival, the rules go out the window. Nets, traps and other accouterments have a higher success rate than hooks. However, you must be aware of the local laws when practicing.



Economics and Investing:

A derivatives implosion was the black swan that ignited the global crisis in 2008. With the amount of total global derivatives now over a staggering 1.25 quadrillion dollars, there is no question that Greyerz is correct when he predicts this will eventually collapse the current financial system. It’s just a question of when it will begin and what the next trigger will be. This Terrifying Black Swan To Collapse Global Financial System . – J.W.

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America’s Poor, Deeper in Debt Than Ever

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The Fed Has A Big Surprise Waiting For You. – J.W.

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

How You Know The Time For More QE Has Come

More Americans Than Forecast File for Unemployment Benefits

No New Debt For Germany In 2015

If The Economy Is Recovering, Why Is The Labor Force Participation Rate At A 36 Year Low?





Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“For God hath not called us unto uncleanness, but unto holiness. He therefore that despiseth, despiseth not man, but God, who hath also given unto us his holy Spirit.” – 1 Thessalonians 4:7-8 (KJV)



Notes for Saturday – September 13, 2014

13 September 1951 is the the birthday of President Salva Kiir Mayardit of South Sudan.

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If you are working on your pandemic and HAZMAT preps, Ready Made Resources is carrying the Hazarid decontamination system. You can decontaminate people, autos, or even entire houses with this, and it works on Molds, Germs, and Viruses. They will also include two Mountain House Pouches with each purchase if you mention SurvivalBlog when you order.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Trading in Precious Metals, by Kestrel

My butcher pulled me aside last fall, while I was in his shop dropping off a deer for processing. He had a gold ring with a diamond mounted in the center. He asked me what it was worth? I own a jewelry store and told him I would take it to the store, weigh it, and give him a price. He explained that a woman came in for some meat and couldn’t pay; she gave him the ring to hold with the promise to come back and pay him the $60 that she owed within the next week. It had been a few months, and she never came back. He was afraid that she had duped him.

I weighed the ring and measured the diamond. The next day I called and told him I would give him $130 for the ring. He gladly agreed, and I paid him cash less the price of the venison. It worked out very well for him, but he could have taken a few steps to better ensure he didn’t get cheated.

You may imagine trading in junk silver, food, and ammo in a post-apocalyptic world. Maybe that will work out okay for you, but millions of people haven’t put aside silver and gold coins, ammo, or food to use for trade. These folks will probably have jewelry and sterling silver items to use as trade. People are trading their old jewelry and silverware that they never use anymore right now, while the economy is in bad shape but still running. If the economy collapses, or falls even further than it has, even more people will need to get something useful from their metal.

The scenario I shared in opening the article is becoming more common every day. You might say that you just wouldn’t do it, because it’s not worth the hassle and risk of trading in people’s jewelry. That’s fine; you can stop reading now. For the rest of you, some basic equipment and knowledge of simple math is all that is needed.

Determining Metal Content

Look for stamping

The first thing to do when trading for old jewelry or silverware is determine the karat or “fineness” of the piece. Most pieces are stamped. A 10x jeweler’s loupe makes reading quality marks easier. (They are available for under $20; just be sure to get one that is “fully corrected”.) “Fineness” is simply a percentage of precious metal in the piece. For example, 585 fine is 58.5% precious metal. “Fine” metal is pure; fine gold is 99.9% or 99.99% gold. Here is a list of common karat marks in U.S. jewelry:

  • 10k (41.67%)
  • 14k (58.33%)
  • 14kP(58.33%)*
  • 18k (75.0%)
  • Ster (92.5%)**
  • 416 (fineness 41.6% gold)
  • 585 (fineness 58.5% gold)
  • 750 (fineness 75.0% gold)
  • 925 (fineness 92.5% silver)
  • 900pt (fineness 90.0% platinum)
  • 950pt (fineness 95.0% platinum)

    Other markings seen on metalwork are often maker’s marks (hallmarks). Things to stay away from are stampings that say “GF” often with a fraction of 1/20 or 1/12. This is gold filled and should not be given any metal value. “GE” of “HGE” are gold electroplate or heavy gold electroplate; there is no metal value in these. Old pieces sometimes are stamped “rolled gold plate”; again, there is no metal value. Also, stay away from anything that says “XXXXX Silver”. These are nickel silver. Often the stamp will say “German Silver” or “Mexican Silver”, but I’ve seen many other names in front of the silver stamp. There is no silver in these.

*The “P” after karat weight doesn’t stand for “plated”; it stands for “plumb”, as in exact.

**Sterling silver legally can be as low as 91.5% silver.

Verify metal content

Never trust the quality stamp, as there are way too many fakes out there. Some fakes are easy to spot. I had a bracelet in the shop yesterday that was stamped 14k. The plating was flaking off, and the color of the gold wasn’t right. It was sterling silver stamped 14k and plated. That one was easy to spot, but there are some good fakes out there. Also, be aware that gold can be alloyed to make just about any color including white, red, green, and blue. You will need, at the very least, acid for testing the metal. It should be noted that no test will tell the exact metal content of the piece, except a destructive assay.

Aqua regia is a time tested method for testing precious metals. To make aqua regia, mix one part nitric acid to three parts hydrochloric acid. If this isn’t something you are comfortable with, don’t worry; there are other methods of testing metals. To test with aqua regia, file a spot on the piece. (It doesn’t take much, just enough to remove any plating– usually one or two swipes with a needle file.) Put a drop of acid on the spot you just filed. If the spot starts to bubble and turn green, it’s a fake. Sterling silver will turn a cloudy cream color. Aqua regia should be washed off of anything it touches with lots of water.

Acid test kits are available. You can buy acids pre-mixed to dissolve common fineness of gold. Usually kits come with 10k, 14k, and 18k acids, and a streak plate or touchstone. A kit can be put together for under $30. Use is pretty simple.

  1. Rub the piece on the stone to leave a streak of metal.
  2. Rub a piece of known 14 karat gold on the stone. (Your wedding band would work, if it is 14k gold.) Try to use the same color of gold, if possible.
  3. Apply a drop of each type of acid to the metal streaks.
  4. Compare how the metal in the 14k streak reacts vs. the unknown streak.
  5. If it dissolves under the 10k acid, it is fake or very low karat; if it dissolves under the 14k acid, it is 10k; if under the 18k acid, it is 14k, et cetera.

Electronic testers are available, too. They are expensive and unnecessary. The ones I’ve used have worked well, but nothing is foolproof except an assay done by a refinery.

Silver can be tested with these acids, too. I advise you use the acid on some sterling and coin silver to see how it reacts. Compare this reaction to nickel silver. A rare earth (Niodymium) magnet is a must for testing silver. They can be bought locally at a tool or electronics store for a couple of dollars. There are many videos out there showing how the magnet drags on silver, without immediately falling off, which it does on many other metals. Get one and experiment with how the magnet works on different metals.

Weigh the piece

You will need a scale for this; there is no way around it and no substitute that I am aware of. The scale doesn’t have to cost a fortune. If you are a reloader, a grain scale works very well. A word of caution: Metals are weighed using TROY WEIGHT, not avoirdupois weight. If you have an avoirdupois scale, multiply avoir. Multiply avoirdupois ounces by .91146 to get troy ounces. Below is a chart of common conversions needed in weighing metals.

Change From:

To:

Multiply by:

Grams

pennyweight

.64301

Grams

oz troy

.03215

Pennyweight

gram

1.5552

Pennyweight

oz troy

.05

Oz troy

pennyweight

20

Oz troy

gram

31.1035

Grain

pennyweight

.0417

Grain

gram

.0648

Karat

grain

3.08647

Karat

pennyweight

.1286

Karat

gram

.2

Finding the Value

Now that we have a weight and a metal quality, multiply the weight by the percentage of precious metal in the piece. If a ring weighs 6.4dwt (pennyweight) and is determined to be 14k (58.33%), take 6.4 x .5833 = 3.73312dwt of fine gold. Then, convert 3.73312dwt to troy ounces by multiplying it by .05 to get .186656 ozt.

Now, find out what gold is going for. There are numerous websites that will give you metal prices updated by the minute. Coininfo.com is the one I use, but any of them will work. If gold is $1300/ozt, multiply .18665 x 1300 = 242.65. Therefore, the gold content in this ring is, at that time, valued at $242.65.

Making an Offer

Now that we know what the market value is of the gold, it’s time to make an offer. You can’t offer $242.65 for the above ring; here is why. You have to get rid of the ring to get money for it. You can send it to a refinery to be melted down and the refinery will write you a check or send you bullion in trade. You won’t get $242.65. You could take it to a local jeweler, coin shop, or pawn shop (GOD forbid), and see what they will give you for it; it won’t be $242.65. Alternatively, you can offer it for sale or trade at a swap meet, flea market, or in a classified ad. If you paid full price and then resell it, you could probably make some money on it, but you will need to hold onto it until someone wants it.

Always assume you will need to send it to a refinery or sell it to a coin/jewelry store. If you send your metal to a refinery, they will pay up to 95-96% of market, minus shipping. Local buyers will generally pay between 10% and 80% of market value. If you deal locally, shop around for the best deal.

If you are dealing with a refinery there are some things you should be aware of. First, it isn’t worth sending metal to a refinery unless you have a bunch of it, and the more you have the better return you will get. Most refineries have a payment schedule listed on their website explaining what fees and percentages are charged and paid. Also, you will probably need a business. Refineries don’t want to deal with the public. You will need to fill out an anti-money-laundering form, stating that you aren’t a criminal. Some refineries will hold your metal until you tell them to cash it out– generally, when the market hits a point you like.

Now back to making an offer. Along with the problem of getting rid of the piece, you need to worry about the metals market dropping. You can’t pay full price at $1300/ozt and then sell for 95% of a market that has dropped to $1250/ozt.

What if that 14k ring is really 13.4k? Simple testers won’t pick up a few tenths of a karat difference. In fact, legal regulations allow any gold piece with solder in it to be under-karated slightly, and if you are trading a lot in metals, a fake will slip by once in a while.

Sometimes, there are stones in jewelry– a crystal in an old watch. Sterling silverware is often filled with plaster or wax. So just determining the exact precious metal weight of a piece is often not possible.

I won’t tell you what percentage to offer. That is something you can decide on your own. I will say that you should offer 10-15% less market just to cover your butt against the above problems.

Here are some refineries I’ve used in the past with good results: Hoover and Strong, Maguire Strickland, Stebgo, and North American Metals.

Things to Watch Out For

In the U.S., gold below 10k can’t be stamped gold. However, there is a bunch of 8-9k gold out there– mostly from south of the border. Buy at your own risk.

You may come across 20-22k gold, as it is sometimes seen. It has a very rich color and comes from Europe and Asia, mostly.

A magnet will tell if the piece is steel; use it on every piece. If it sticks, it’s fake.

Platinum can be a little difficult to identify, if you haven’t played with it before. Platinum is heavy and soft. It is also very tenacious; it doesn’t like to be removed from itself. Drag a file across a piece of platinum, and it will bite and move with unexpected difficulty.

Silverware, candlesticks, bowls, and cups can be problematic. The bases of most of these are weighted with wax or shellac, and silver knives have steel blades and hollow handles that are filled with plaster. Getting a weight on these is impossible without destroying them. Spoons and forks are usually solid sterling. If it says “silverplate” or isn’t stamped “sterling”, it isn’t real.

What do you do with the gemstones in jewelry? I wouldn’t offer any money for stones in jewelry. Can you tell a cubic zirconia from a diamond? A synthetic from a real sapphire? What if the stone is scratched? How much can you sell the stones for and to whom will you sell them? I would offer to give the stones back if the seller wants them and they are easily removed. Prongs can be pulled back with fingernail clippers, if you are careful. Just always let the seller know there is a risk of breaking the stone upon removal.

If metal isn’t stamped, that doesn’t mean it isn’t gold or silver. Jewelry is often repaired, and in repairing (especially rings) the quality mark is removed.

I’m sure I don’t have to say this for anyone here, but if you are dealing with this kind of stuff on the street, be careful.

One day an opportunity may come your way involving “junk” precious metals. I hope this article gives you the confidence to profit from the situation.



Two Letters Re: LEO Medic

Hugh:

I just want to say “thank you” to this author for such an excellent series. I agree that they are the finest articles I have ever read on SurvivalBlog. As an office-based physician, I do not have the hands-on field experience that will prove so valuable in the future, and I think most physicians are in the same boat. So thanks so much for taking the time to educate all of us. I will read and re-read your articles, as they will save many lives.

Primary Care MD

o o o

Just wanted to add to B.O.’s comment. I’m a former army combat medic, 101st Airborne in 1970 and did 10 years with the Army, ending up as the ward-master of an ICU (NCOIC or sergeant in charge) II picked up EMT while still on active duty (before Paramedics existed). I drove an ambulance until I got my LPN and worked at that while I got my RN. As an RN, I initially worked in ICU and after a few years, switched to ER. I’m now retired with 25 years as an RN. All told, I’ve spent about 45 years in patient care. LEO Medics letters were AWESOME! If I can add anything to this it would be my suggestion that folks frequent their local thrift stores. Keep an eye out for medical braces– knee, wrist, and ankle in particular. They work a lot better than elastic bandages but should be properly sized. It’s also a good idea to have a pair of crutches on hand. They are frequently in thrift stores for $5.00 to $10.00. and cost a lot more than that if purchased new. Properly adjusted, the top pad should be 2-3 inches below the armpit. The hand grip should allow a slight flex in the elbow. I would imagine there are Youtube videos for this and for applying braces. For B.O.s question on thermometers, he might want to consider rectal thermometers. The oral electronic ones work both ways but should be well cleaned after use. I’ll also add that when my dog was ill, I listened to his heart and was shocked by how irregular it was. I thought he was in atrial fibrillation. When I took him to the vet, he laughed and said all nurses get concerned when they listen to their dog’s heart beat and that sinus arrhythmias (irregular heartbeat) are normal for dogs. Once again, LEO Medic’s letters were AWESOME, and I feel that might be an understatement. WSB