Odds ‘n Sods:

SurvivalBlog reader K.A. sent us a link to a video of some pro-Russian irregulars of the Donetsk People’s Republic (DPR/DNR) skirmishing in the village of Vergunka near Luhans’ka, Ukraine. (Note: Please ignore the lewd pictures and links at the LiveLeak website. Sorry, but I could not find another video aggregation site with the same video clip.) This video provides a great case study on how NOT to operate as a small guerilla unit: Pitiful noise discipline (plenty of “smoking and joking”); marginal command and control; suicidally poor dispersion of patrol members (at many times they were bunched so close together that just one mortar round wound have taken out four or five of them); horrible fire discipline including “spray and pray” use of small arms (LOTS of super-elevated muzzles and non-use of sights, meaning that their rounds were going harmlessly over the heads of their opponents and possibly resulting in fratricide and civilian casualties); a patrol traveling directly down streets (an invitation to ambush); poor use of available cover and concealment; lack of coordination with a supporting tank; a clueless RPG user, who apparently failed to remove the arming pins from his rounds (so that they did not detonate); failure to find, fix, and engage their opponents; failure to communicate and coordinate with supporting and supported units; and so forth– all followed by copious self-congratulation, which was all apparently for not getting themselves shot and for wasting a lot of precious ammunition. Pitiful! This is not soldiering; it is just “playing army”. – JWR

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Three useful fact sheets for hospitals, medical providers and the public from the CDC on Ebola. – A.W.

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Obama to announce 3000 troops going to fight Ebola – G.P.

Apparently, we can strategize and use the military effectively against a virus but not ISIS. – HJL

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Face The Face. – B.B.

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Border Bridge Protest Organizers to Militia: You’re Not Welcome. – G.S.





Notes for Tuesday – September 16, 2014

September 16th is the birthday of “Mad Jack” Churchill (1906-1996), who was a true eccentric. He went to war in WWII armed with a broadsword and a longbow. (The latter was successfully used to dispatch several German soldiers.) He later became a devoted surfer. What a guy.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



The Real Threats, by R.S.

There is a lot of conjecture as to what the event will be that “ends it all” and sends the world into complete chaos, causing Americans to go into “survival mode”. Every corner you turn you hear another theory about how it’s “going to go down”. People’s answers include terms like E.M.P., H.E.M.P., nuclear, biological, chemical, economic meltdown, foreign invasion, global natural disaster, space alien invasion, zombie apocalypse, or all the above (for the real dooms dayers). So, what is the more likely or more plausible scenario or scenarios for having to go into real survival mode? Let’s look at the different possibilities,break them down to their reality, and determine what the real threats to survival are.

Foreign Invasion

I don’t believe this is in the realm of real possibility, but I have heard it mentioned numerous times, so I will give it a little thought real quick. The last time our nation was actually invaded was during WWII by the Japanese. They made their way onto the Aleutian Islands but were defeated by U.S. military. In the book “Secrets of The Dead” a Japanese officer is quoted as saying “I do not fear the invasion, I fear what will happen when we get there. Behind every blade of grass there will be a gun, and behind that gun, a citizen ready to give his life for his country.” I believe that realization is still prominent throughout the world today. Thus, the importance of protecting our second amendment right is made apparent. A full-scale invasion would be at the peril of the invader. They realize that, and thus I don’t believe anyone– one military or group– has the gumption to attempt it. Many say we are in the process of being invaded now at our southern borders, but that isn’t the scale of invasion everyone is referring to when they say we are going to be “invaded”. It is more straw on the economic camel’s back, but it isn’t the “Red Dawn” invasion we picture. This is a major problem though. Many of the terrorist organizations are able to see the holes in our perimeter. They could easily exploit those weak areas to infiltrate our borders to get to the more metropolitan areas and succeed in a local, mass casualty scenario. A small scale “dirty bomb”, chemical or biological device, is a definite threat to the particular area or areas they are used in. The biggest threat from these, from a national stand point, is the economical disaster caused, if they are used with precision tactics on our financial hubs or power grid. However, these WMDs aren’t that easy to whip up.

Weapons of Mass Destruction

I am a Hazardous Materials Technician with the fire department. I have had hours upon hours of Haz Mat response training, including nuclear training. The knowledge I gained from that training all but eliminated the idea of there being a “national” nuclear, chemical, or biological incident. When I say a national incident, I am referring to the entire nation being physically affected by either radiation, a chemical agent, or biological agent. In the event that one of these WMDs are utilized, it will be on a local scale or multiple local scales. The more suitable areas for these threats are the more populated city areas. The primary goal being to add up the most casualties in the least amount of time for the news outlets to blast all over the world and send shock and terror into the hearts and minds of individuals. Let’s look at the nuclear aspect first, its plausibility, and how to respond if it were to go down in that manner.

Nuclear. An all out nuclear war between nations I guess is a possibility, but if it occurs I doubt any of us non-presidential administration folk have a lot to worry about as far as survival goes. When the first one goes up, it will be an end of all life event, because it’s guaranteed the rest will follow. The earth will be uninhabitable…period. From fall out to nuclear winter, every living organism will cease. Take a look at Chernobyl and how close Europe came to being uninhabitable. That was from one reactor melting down. Multiply that by thousands of warheads strategically launched, and you can see how I come to my conclusion. [HJL comments: Total annihilation is a product of Hollywood and the evidence available, even from Chernobyl, does not support this conclusion. In short, if you are unprepared or are in the wrong place through providence, bad luck or bad planning, you will probably die, but with prudent planning and preparation, a total nuclear war is indeed survivable.] World leaders know this. The ones who don’t care and would look at it as the ultimate sacrifice for Allah don’t have the means to build multiple war heads or systems to defeat the defenses of the other nations around them. Again, if they were successful with a nuclear attack, it would be on a smaller and more localized scale. Thus, the importance of keeping the nuclear technology out of their hands. Aren’t you glad you live in the U.S., surrounded by friendlies, instead of in the Middle East? Here, in the U.S., we could see a small briefcase dirty bomb or the like though. These could definitely affect cities and millions of the population. So what if this is the case? Well, first of all if you survive the initial explosion, you still aren’t out of the woods. Depending upon the size of the explosive device, the infrastructure is going to take a major hit and present a lot of hazards. Transportation is going to come to a stand still, caused by both a mass exodus of individuals from the area and also, as crazy as it might sound, individuals trying to get closer to see what is going on. For example, a major propane distributor in my area had a fire at their warehouse. Fifty thousand 20-lb propane cylinders exploded over the course of a few hours, and three 30,000-gallon cylinders were threatened by the flames. The explosions could be felt miles away, and the flames could be seen from air traffic up to 60 miles away. Many of the streets were shut down, due to traffic– NOT from people trying to leave but from people trying to get closer to the scene to see what was going on. One of our fire trucks responding to the fire was hit by a man in his vehicle wearing nothing but his boxer shorts; he had heard and felt the explosions, saw the bright orange light on the horizon, and wanted to go check it out. People do not react the way you would expect during emergencies and disasters. In the event of a city-wide attack, mass hysteria will take hold and the thugs will definitely take advantage of the situation. There are examples of this all of the time in the news. Self-proclaimed leaders will rise up and attempt to take hold of areas and determine who goes and who stays, who lives and who dies, and what’s yours and what’s his/hers. Gas lines will be ruptured, leaking flammable and toxic gases throughout. It will be survival of the fittest in the city. Do not rely or lean on local law enforcement, fire, or ems for aid. Our public service personnel are already stretched thin and under paid. To be honest with you, in this event, hanging out to help my fellow man is not on top of my priority list; getting my family to safety is. So I will not be around,and many of the like-minded individuals in the field are going to be gone as well. You will be on your own. More than likely, if you are reading this, you are already aware of that, but take a look around at how many people are living ostriches. They are the ones who we will have to weed through to get to our shelters. After the initial destruction of the explosion, you may have to take into consideration the possibility of the bomb being dirty. “Time, Distance, and Shielding”. In other words, get as far away as fast as possible, and put as much stuff between you and ground zero as possible.

There are three primary types of radiation to consider: Alpha, Beta, and Gamma. The first two primarily pose a risk via our mucous membranes. We are affected by inhaling, ingesting, or absorbing this through our eyes, cuts, or openings in the body. Alpha is a “large” particle that only travels a few inches and can be shielded by clothing and respiratory protection. It is really the least of the three to worry about, but don’t dismiss it all together. Technically, you can block an alpha particle with a sheet of paper. The problem is if you ingest or inhale it, so protect your airway and other openings. You can accomplish this by wetting and wrapping cloth around your face and wearing glasses. Beta is a smaller particle and travels a little further. A few feet is generally the maximum distance that it can travel, without the help of wind, but keep in mind a windy day can circulate these particles through the air, so be sure you are out of the hot zone before relaxing personal protection means of the airway and mucous membranes. Gamma is a ray, not a particle. The only defense against this is time, distance, and shielding. Again, do not stay any length of time; get as far away from the city as you can, and if you find yourself stuck around the detonation zone, try to put as much stuff (buildings, cars, trees, land masses, et cetera) between you and ground zero as possible. In any of these cases, if you feel you have been contaminated by the particles or rays, do not enter into your home or touch any family or loved ones. Disrobe carefully without touching the clothes with your skin, and wash your body with a mild soap solution. Undressing actually eliminates up to 90% of the contamination by alpha and beta particles. Respiratory protection is the last item to be removed. Only remove this when you are certain that all contaminants are eliminated. Again with gamma, it is a ray and penetrates most materials. Before coming into contact with family, if you believe there is a possibility you have been contaminated, monitor yourself for a while. Watch for nausea, diarrhea, blisters (radiation burn), anything with a slower onset than what may have been caused by the explosion itself. I would recommend doing a little research into the area of radiation contamination and personal decontamination. There are thousands of documented radiation sources that are missing in the U.S. alone. Most of these are medical sources and non-threatening, but research is the best defense against ignorance. Google radiation and “gross and technical decontamination” methods. In many instances the decontamination methods can also be used in the event you are exposed and contaminated with chemical or biological substances as well. Knowing how to decontaminate yourself, a family member, or members is important, and there is a method to do it properly.

Biological. This is another one of those WMDs I would consider lower on the possibility range. It’s not to say impossible but less likely. Number one, to make weapons-grade biological agents is very difficult. Second, it is very costly. Third, it doesn’t get the immediate satisfactory result those most likely to attack us want. I did read the other day where ISIS, ISIL, or whatever they are calling themselves this week is looking at the possibilities of making or acquiring biological agents, but again the affected areas or targets are going to be high population zones. If you are in the dispersion zone of one of these agents, you aren’t going to know about it until the late stages. Immediately after 9/11 we ran dozens of white powder calls. The threat of anthrax was rampant. We would respond to find piles of white powder in envelopes, on cars, and on desks; you name it. The thing is if any of these were weapons-grade Anthrax, we would hardly be able to find any dust outside of taking residue samples and sending them to a lab. Weapons grade is very small and very light. If you look at a jar full of weapons grade biological agent, it looks like liquid moving in the jar even though it is a solid. Opening a door to a room where the agent is causes enough air movement to disperse all of the agent into the air. You will not know you are in a hot zone and will not know you have been contaminated until symptoms appear. If you find out there has been an attack with the use of a biological agent in your area, the best reaction immediately following may be getting info. If it is somehow dispersed city wide, your best response may be sheltering in your home and sealing all air leaks or moving up wind and up hill. This is where having multiple planned routes of escape will come into play. At least four routes should be considered. Obviously north, south, east, and west if possible. If your shelter destination is north of where you are, but the wind is blowing from the south to the north, you do not want to travel with the wind and everything it is carrying. Currently, there are around 1200 possible “weaponizable” biological agents that have been described and studied. However, again, they are very costly and technically difficult to produce in quantity and disperse without being discovered or destroyed during dispersion. Explosions or heat will destroy a living biological agent, so bombs laced with biological threats really aren’t plausible. With that said, I don’t believe this will be the choice of our enemies, since again their goal is to produce immediate carnage, along with chaos to terrorize the populous. If you would like to take a look at the more possible biological agents, for your own personal knowledge, you can look it up online.

Chemical. Chemical warfare is a little closer to the end result expected by a radical organization but would still remain as a localized attack. They can have the explosions and disperse chemical agents with immediate signs and symptoms of bodily mutilation. Blister, respiratory, and nerve agents are a few that can be considered. Many of these are already in use by everyday industrial and farming communities. They roll down our railways and highways in mass quantities. Immediate affects can be death in minutes with blistering and melting of the skin. So the images potentially shown to the world could get the reaction the terrorists want right now. If you are in the immediate area of the attack and come into contact with a chemical agent you will experience the symptoms rapidly in most cases, thus rendering you unable to flee and having to seek medical attention. If you are not contaminated and can leave, the earlier mentioned escape and decontamination methods are still in play here. Up wind and up hill should be considered. Move up hill, because most chemicals are heavier than air and seek lower lying areas. The one exception is ammonia. If you are contaminated but not experiencing symptoms, disrobe and decon yourself immediately with copious amounts of water. Gallons of water will be needed. Water solely is preferred, if you do not know the agent used, as some soaps or solutions may react with the agent making the outcome worse. Being prepared, as far as personal protection equipment, is really not in the cards for most of us. These are either already gases or want-to-be gases. The only means of protection is inside of a level A hazardous materials suit. These cost around $1000 dollars each, and then you have to purchase the self-contained breathing apparatus that is a few grand. You have to be fully encapsulated with an air supply in order to be protected while inside the flume of a gas. It just isn’t feasible to “prepare” physically for this event, but you can prepare mentally with a plan. Things to be mindful of in your area are water treatment facilities that use chlorine gas, farming areas that use anhydrous ammonia. These are some readily available agents common in cities and towns. They are monitored and protected as WMDs, but where there is a will there is a way to obtain them. Again, some research into the different possible chemical agents and their possible uses and affects in the event of a terrorist act will prove valuable. Some info can be found online.

Natural Disasters

Natural disasters are the inevitable area of this discussion. These emergencies have provided examples in recent years and effect entire states and regions of the country. Being prepared properly for a natural event is very important. Self sufficiency, for a minimum of a couple of weeks, is a must. Hurricane Katrina showed us just how slow a response can be to a wide-spread natural disaster. During the footage of Katrina, you noticed all of the areas of concern come to light– looting, self proclaimed leaders taking areas hostage, infrastructure coming to a halt, escape routes nullified, food and water shortages, public servants rendered useless, entire economies destroyed, and many hazards presented to those directly affected by the disaster. Navigating through ruptured gas mains, structure fires, flooding, piles of hazardous debris, modes of transportation destroyed, and the possibility of having to hump it out on foot became a real element of my plan. You could find yourself having to make your way through areas that are experiencing accidental releases of chemical warfare agents or even biological agents, depending upon the amount of time since the initial disaster and conditions on the ground. Again, you saw hours of footage of individuals wading through flood waters with no protection. That water has hydrocarbons, feces, urine, decay of natural vegetation, and the bodies of humans and animals. It’s a collection point for everything bad, and you don’t want to be wading chest deep in it.

Storms. On a side note, personally, I can’t believe an event like this hasn’t been capitalized on. Imagine this; let’s say we have another Katrina hit the southeast, and a radical group decides to capitalize on it by detonating a couple of simple bombs in the northeast and west, during the national response to the natural disaster. I don’t know of many people who have considered this as even being a possibility. These are still all localized or regional events, contained, and manageable. The problem is when the people who aren’t prepared mentally realize they don’t have a plan and national panic sets in. Suddenly, they realize their smart phones aren’t able to bale them out. Simple, preemptive planning is the best solution. Knowing when to LEAVE and how to leave, BEFORE the storm makes landfall, is critical. Everyone, who was caught by Katrina and stranded, placed more value in possessions than they did their lives. They had plenty of fore warning, but they chose to stay and ante up with their lives and in many cases the lives of their loved ones. Be smart and know when to call it and leave.

E.M.P.s and H.E.M.P.s. These have gathered a lot of steam in the past few years. Electromagnetic Pulse and High Altitude Electromagnetic Pulse are possibilities, and I would venture to say the more probable concern (but not so much the man-made variety). You have to consider that a man-made device carrying an E.M.P. has to make it past very sophisticated defense systems in order to reach altitude and detonate. The U.S. has been a little slow, from what I know, in meeting this threat, but many of the systems already in place since the Cold War are or should be capable of handling this threat before it reaches altitude. The greater threat here is the more naturally occurring E.M.P. Just within the last month or so we thinly avoided an M class solar flare from the sun. Many don’t realize that on July 23, 2012, the earth only just missed by a week being hit by a solar flare from the largest solar storm in 150 yrs. Had the wave been sent out the week prior, the earth would have been totally blacked out. All electrical components would have ceased to function. We would still be in total economic disarray. Living in the stone age would probably be a more accurate description of the conditions, had the flare met the earth. Our sun is in a very angry cycle as we speak. The possibility of an X class flare being shot towards the earth is a real concern within NASA circles. It would usher in the environment that everyone pictures, when they day dream of having to bug out. Economical and social fall out is the big ticket winner here. It is the only event that will send the entire world into survival mode. Vehicles can’t be used, so I hope you have a mule to bug out on.

Here is my argument against this method and the interesting thing to me. Millions have been spent on preparing physically for when the time comes to pack up and head out. There are clues as to what the world has been experiencing and what it will experience in the future. I am a Christian and believe in what the Bible says about the end days. In Ezekiel 39:14,15, it speaks of scenes and events that can, I believe, be contributed to nuclear aftermath– a scorched earth and bodies lying on the side of the road with signs on them to indicate they are not to be touched by anyone except the specialists being sent around to collect them. It sounds to me like radioactive placards to mark “hot” bodies. This would indicate that the global grid and GPS systems are still intact, thus eliminating the idea of an E.M.P. of any sort. This point of view will most definitely spiral into an entirely different conversation altogether, so I will end with my overall point. As I mentioned, millions are being spent to prepare physically for that day when it all melts down and you have to caravan to your shelter for the long haul. Don’t get me wrong, I completely believe in investing physically for events that could send us fleeing into the woods; in fact, part of those millions is mine. However, what about the mental preparedness? I don’t believe there is enough emphasis on this portion of the equation for the individual who doesn’t experience emergencies on a regular basis. Mental preparedness is going to go just as far, if not farther, in the survival atmosphere than the physical. As I mentioned, I work for the fire department. Those of us in the field are more or less numbed to the adrenaline rush that the everyday emergency brings. You would probably be surprised to see how many people panic in the presence of a dead body from very natural reasons just lying on the floor. The fact is most people have never experienced death outside of the funeral home. Now line the streets with mutilated human bodies from any event, sprinkle some destruction, blend some panicked screams, toss these folks in, and sit back and watch the circus. Being prepared enough mentally so you can make rational decisions in the face of adrenaline, fear, explosions, fire, screams, wreckage, carnage, possible chemical or biological, nuclear, or natural disaster is the most important of all preparations. Determine what your reaction is going to be ahead of time, and practice or “train” it in your mind. This will naturally prepare you and numb you to the images when physically presented with them.

Conclusion/The “Real Threats”

What about the more immediate situation? What if “your” bug out event occurs tomorrow in the parking lot, on the road, or in a restaurant where a thug wants what you have? What if you are left with seconds to determine if you are going to have to take another human being’s life from them? How are you truly going to react? This is obviously something you can’t truly know until faced with it, but you can know the phases an individual will possibly go through, mentally, when faced with the decision between killing or being killed. Everyone says they would have no problem killing, but I bet the truth of the matter will surprise you. I would recommend the book “On Killing” by Lt. Col. Dave Grossman. Take a look at the phases experienced during human to human conflict. His research is backed with some absolutely amazing statistics going all the way back to the Napoleonic wars. Prepare now for if and when, God forbid, you are met with the choice of life or death.

Let’s face it, we are already in a state of social and economical decline. A certain level of anarchy is already evident in our towns and cities. Seeing the threat, having a plan, and being prepared mentally to deal with the threat is what is going to save your life, not a shelter full of non-perishables. The point is any one of the above mentioned means to the end are possible, though I still wouldn’t broadcast the theory of an alien invasion or zombie apocalypse to my friends. Some are more of a possibility and some less of one. The only common thread through all of them that will save your life is being aware of them and being better prepared mentally to respond. In conclusion, a lack of awareness, education, and mental preparedness are the “real threats” to your survival.



Letter Re: Time Out

Hugh,

The author discourages Seiko watches, although I have found them to be one of the best watches I have ever purchased. It is an auto wind and needs adjusting once every several months, which is usually when it gets 10 minutes fast and I just turn it back. My Seiko 5 mechanical watch has been diving, truck driving, shooting, and taken all sorts of abuse.

I bought my first one in Sharjah UAE on my way to Iraq. It served me well through the war, from Baghdad to Djibouti, to Manila, to China and all over. Finally, it started running too fast, so I sent it off for repair in Kuwait City. The stainless case was returned buffed to mirrored finish, new glass, and a refurbished mechanism. It looked too nice to wear every day, so I bought another Seiko 5 with ceramic biezel. It has seldom left my wrist, except for the occasional cleaning with brush and toothpaste.

The prices on the Seiko mechanicals are increasing fast. What cost $200 in 2004 is now closer to $300-350. Used Seiko 5 watches are a good value, if one can find one without much use. The amount of scratches on the case should give one a idea of how much life it has left. – B.M.



News From The American Redoubt:

Kevin Miller’s program airs 5am-9am Monday- Friday in the Boise market on AM 580 KIDO. He is an extremely conservative and politically-active radio host. – KROQ/Los Angeles Wins Three Awards At Marconi Dinner. – RBS

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If you are looking to move to the American Redoubt, you might want to look at this job posting: Telecommunications Assistant (Boise, ID). – RBS

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Wyoming: One Shot hunt has had many great moments. Hmmmmm? Why doesn’t California’s governor host a similar event?

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Fatal bear attack confirmed in Wyoming

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News from Montana: Flathead, Ravalli: Despite growth, counties remain reliably Republican





Odds ‘n Sods:

Video: TSA demands to rescreen a man AFTER he he flew from Minneapolis, MN and landed safely in Denver, Colorado.. – J.C.

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NATO Chief Warns Moscow: No More Stealth Invasions. – Pat Cascio

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The Great Unraveling. – P.M.

I’m going to have to agree with some of the commenters on this opinion piece. While it may seem that society has begun to completely unravel, I tend to think it is because the leaders that we have put in place are so small minded and completely out of their depth. I truly believe that with a real leader at the helm, Americans would take pride in their country once again and the majority of these issues would dwindle. That’s not to say it would be utopia; there will always be conflict and strife, but it wouldn’t be at a crisis level.

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Think you have nothing to hide? You might be surprised how modern police lean on error-filled data like this: View Your Google Location History. – T.P.

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Comcast Threatens To Cut Off Customers Who Use Anonymous Web Browser, TOR. – T.P.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“To compel a man to furnish contributions of money for the propagation of opinions which he disbelieves and abhors, is sinful and tyrannical.” – Thomas Jefferson



Notes for Monday – September 15, 2014

SurvivalBlog reader JMS has issued a call for articles. He notes a shortage of articles on SurvivalBlog dealing with single females who work (or a single person who works). If you are single and a prepper (especially a single, female prepper), answer his call with a how-to article for SurvivalBlog readers and be eligible for over $12,000 worth of prizes.



Comments on Sharpening, by R.F.

As someone said about shooting, “It’s simple, but it’s not easy.” All you need to do is pick the correct angle for what you’re sharpening and maintain that angle, as you remove material to obtain a cutting edge. This is the case regardless of what you’re working on. The difficulty comes in consistently maintaining the angle chosen. That requires a lot of skill, and it explains the popularity of all the jigs and sharpening systems on the market.

If you’re interested in learning to sharpen free hand, practice. The only way you’re going to learn is by doing. It doesn’t matter whether you use a stone, a fine grade of sandpaper, the bottom of a ceramic cup, or abrasive impregnated leather. The principles are the same. You’re also going to want to have an assortment of files available for working on axes, hoes, shovels, mattocks, et cetera.

Knife-sharpening Jigs and Systems

I’m going to talk about some of the jigs and systems available. These things make it both simple and easy. This is not an exhaustive list by any means. There are a lot out there. I’m just going to go over some that are familiar to me.

Chef’s Choice The one I bought is a three-position, electric sharpener. There are two different abrasive wheels and a stropping wheel. This does a good job. You can quickly get a shaving-sharp edge using this system. This also has the advantage of being able to use the stropping wheel to resharpen a knife that’s loosing its edge. As a result you’re not removing a bunch of material every time you touch up an edge. You can also use the stropping wheel to work on a serrated blade. It’s electric; it’s not inexpensive, but it’s easy to use and does a good job.

Work Sharp This sounded good, so I gave it a try. I’m not sure I gave it a fair chance. It seems like it should do a good job. I wasn’t impressed, but I haven’t used it enough to know if that’s a fair judgment. It’s electric, so again you’re dependent on having power.

KME Sharpeners(http://kmesharp.com/) are a jig that locks the knife in a fixed position. You then hone the edge using an abrasive attached to a pivot that maintains a fixed angle. Since the knife is fixed and the angle of the abrasive is fixed, the angle you select is the one that is used consistently. The result is that each stroke of the abrasive is at the same angle, so you have the consistency needed to produce a fine edge. You use different grades of abrasive– coarse, medium, and fine– to produce a very fine edge. This is a very good system, particularly if you’re starting with an edge that has been really trashed. Again, it’s not inexpensive. Also, this one has the advantage of not using electricity. There are other systems similar to this, but this is the one I’m familiar with and have used. (Note that the system is often sold separately from the base/stand, and the rod for working with serrated knives is also sold separately.)

Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker I think this is the best system I’ve come across. It’s not inexpensive (which seems to be a recurring theme, because quality doesn’t come cheap), but it’s easy to use and produces an outstanding edge. The system consists of triangular ceramic sticks that can be set at one of two different angles. To sharpen, you hold the knife straight up and down and use a slicing, or stroking, motion on the ceramic. This is the tool I use most often. You get a shaving-sharp edge using the coarse and fine sticks that come with the sharpener. A set of extra fine sticks is also available, if you really want to polish the edge. There are also positions on the base for inserting the ceramics for working on scissors. It’s a very versatile and easy-to-use system.

Using Pocket-size Sharpeners

There are many pocket-size sharpeners. Some use carbide, and some use ceramic. They’re sold in big box stores, gun shows, and every where in between. Occasionally, I’ll use one of these to touch up an edge when field dressing game. They are inexpensive, easy to use, and some do a fair job. The thing to remember is to not use too much pressure on the blade when drawing it through the sharpener. This is true of all sharpeners you use. You want the tool to do the work. Excessive pressure is counter-productive. If the sharpener you’re using has carbide as an abrasive, you will grind off a lot of steel by using too much pressure.

A Knife-carrying Idea

While we’re talking about knives, give some thought to how you carry your knife. It seems to me that almost everyone, who carries a knife that has a clip, carries it in the front pocket closest to their dominant hand. That works fine if you access the knife with the dominant hand. What happens when you can’t use that hand? I use what might be termed “appendix carry”. I clip the knife inside the waist band of my pants, a little off center toward my dominant hand. That makes it easily accessible to either hand, and I find it more comfortable than pocket carry.

Sharpening Chain Saws

Finally, a few thoughts on sharpening chain saws. Electric chain saw sharpeners seem attractive, but If you use an electric sharpener you’re going to get a lot less use from your chain. These sharpeners tend to remove a lot of material, so your chain gets used up faster. The other problem is that they put a lot of heat into the chain. That seems to change the temper of the steel, and makes it a lot harder to sharpen by hand in the future. Unlike a knife, a chain saw chain is relatively easy to learn to sharpen by hand. The chains I’ve seen recently have a laser mark on the teeth that shows the angle at which they should be sharpened. Use the right size file and follow that angle. When you’ve filed enough, you’ll feel the file glide smoothly over the tooth. This may take a little practice, but you should pick it up pretty easily. I find guides that clamp on the file not very helpful.

If you want to use a non-electric jig, there is a very good one available. The name is Timberline Again, it’s not inexpensive. It uses carbide burrs that you turn in a fixture that clamps to the bar of the saw. This gives you a fixed angle, so you have great consistency. You also remove a minimum of material so you get the maximum life from your chain. You also do not put any heat into the steel, so you’re not creating any problems there. I’ve used this jig and like it. It’s well thought out and does a good job. It’s a tool you only have to buy once. The carbide sharpening burrs will wear out and require replacement, but you will get a lot of use from them before that happens. This is far superior to electric sharpeners and has the advantage that you can take it to the woods with you. It’s a lot easier to touch up the chain from time to time, while it’s still cutting well, than to wait until it’s not cutting and have to do a major sharpening.



Scot’s Product Review: Sharp-Shoot-R Products

It was a dark and cluttered place. It was crowded. The children were dirty and uncared for. It looked as if their parents never cleaned them. They were streaked with charcoal. Someone had smeared molten plastic on some of them, while others had strips of lead and copper hanging on them. You could sense their dejection. If only someone would come to my gun safe and clean their barrels!

Okay, I’m exaggerating…a little. My usual approach to cleaning guns is to wipe them down with an oily rag and run one or two patches with a cleaner-lubricant-preservative (CLP) product through the barrel, before I store them after a range trip. Anything with a chrome barrel usually gets a couple of patches of Ed’s Red– a home brew cleaner that does a pretty good job on everything but copper deposits. It’s not as protective as CLP, hence the use on chromed barrels, which are more immune to rust. You can see the formula on Father Frog’s page. I do make a point of cleaning the mechanisms and lubing them, so I know they will function, but the barrels don’t get what they deserve. I put them away intending to get back and thoroughly clean them later in the week. Sometimes that happens but not as often as it should.

I don’t get back, because I really don’t like cleaning guns, especially their barrels. There are always other chores to be done. My wife isn’t crazy about me being in the garage when I ought to be with my family, and she is right on that point. A lot of these chemicals smell bad and feel icky. There are often ugly warnings on the labels. You really ought to wear nitrile gloves when using most of them, but I hate wearing gloves. Did I mention I find it boring? I should feel compelled to keep our guns clean, but other stuff and my bad attitude get in the way.

I can go on like this longer than anyone can stand, and I probably already have, so I better stop. What this means is that anytime I run into a product that claims to make gun cleaning faster and easier, I get very interested. SharpShoot-R Precision Products http://www.sharpshootr.com/ has some products that make such claims, and I decided to give a couple of them a try.

One of the special treats promised by SharpShoot-R is an end to bore brushing. One of the more exciting parts of gun cleaning is shoving a brush back and forth about 6,000 times for every round fired. To make it more even more awesome, according to some experts, you REALLY REALLY should only push the brush through the bore in one direction and take the brush off after it pops out the muzzle. Pull the rod back, reattach the brush after wetting it with solvent (don’t just dunk it in the bottle because that transfers dirt to your solvent), and then brush the bore again. Every 20 or so strokes with the brush, you probably should run a couple of wet patches through to get out the dirt you loosened with the brush. Then, you continue until no more dirt comes out. You probably have to let it soak for a couple of years during the process and then resume. Are we having fun yet?

Besides the fun factor, there is also the possibility of damaging the barrel with all this brushing. SharpShoot-R makes the very reasonable claim that the fewer times we run rods, brushes, and patches down the bore, the less likely it is to harm the barrel.

SharpShoot-R makes several products. The ones I am reviewing here are Wipe-Out, which is a foam you spray down the barrel. It is white and looks and feels like a low-quality shaving cream. It costs about $15 at Amazon. The other is Wipe-Out Accelerator, which is supposed to make Wipe-Out work faster and better. It’s a liquid that you apply to a patch that is then used to coat the bore before spraying it with Wipe-Out.

There are warnings to be issued. SharpShoot-R says its chemicals can damage an oil, varnish, or shellac stock finish. It is said to be safe with modern poly-type stock finishes along with metal finishes. There are some warnings about contact with skin and other safety matters, though they aren’t as terrifying as some I’ve read. The stuff doesn’t smell bad, which is a plus.

The first thing I decided to try it on was my shotgun. It has a smoothbore barrel intended for deer and turkey hunting. I use it mainly with buckshot and slugs. Almost all of the buckshot loads I use have the plastic cups that protect the shot as it goes down the barrel, so you get better patterns. The slugs are lead alloyed with other metals to make them harder. This ammo leaves layers and layers of lead and plastic that are tough to get out without lots of solvent and brushing. I don’t think I have gotten it spotless since I bought it about 20 years ago. I’ve done classes with it, and since it is fun to shoot, I use it whenever I can afford shells. It’s had a lot of rounds out the tube. It was shamefully full of fouling, so it was a good subject to test the promise of a brush-free process.

I should point out here that Wipe-Out does not claim to be a lead or plastic solvent, but they say it will soften lead enough for you to push it out with a tight patch. They add that it will work its way under plastic in shotgun barrels, so that too can be pushed out. They do make a specific lead solvent, but I wasn’t able to locate any for this test. Since I shoot a lot of lead bullets in handguns, I plan to test it and will report when I do.

The directions say to run a patch of the accelerator through the bore and then spray it with Wipe-Out until the foam starts coming out the other end. You can use the included cone attachment from the muzzle or get a little tube and do if from the breech. It takes about a one to two second burst to fill the barrel with foam. The foam breaks down and leaves a solution adhering to the bore. They logically say to keep the barrel horizontal so it doesn’t all run out. You then go away for an hour and write copy for the blog. Return and push some patches through. If they stay clean, life is good.

Proof that sin is not rewarded, my patches came out dark gray and really ugly. Wipe-Out color codes your patches, by the way. If they are grey, like mine, you have powder fouling in the barrel. If they are blue, you have copper. If they are tan, you have carbon. When I looked through the barrel, it was obvious there were many layers of garbage in it. SharpShoot-R makes it very clear that a badly fouled gun (what, mine?) is likely to need multiple treatments, so I wasn’t surprised.

I had actually skipped the Accelerator on the first try as I wondered if one could get by without it. The second try, I used it, and I got a lot more fouling out, but still I had no clean patches. I could still see lots of garbage. Sigh. SharpShoot-R suggests an overnight soak for this sort of problem, and that’s what I gave it.

On day two, I still got dirt out. I was starting to see bits of lead on the patches, too. I could, however, now see some shiny barrel in between the layers of crud, and I began to realize just how bad I let this one get.

While the barrel was soaking, I let Wipe-Out work on some of the action parts. There are some gas rings that get a carbon and lead up and are usually a pain to clean. The carbon came right off. I did brush a bit to get the lead off, but the rings wound up cleaner than I’ve seen them since they were new. They were close to pristine. The magazine tube they ride around also picks up carbon and lead, and it cleaned much more easily than I remember ever happening. The lead (think solder) did need a little brushing, but the carbon just wiped off.

By day three, I was still getting dirty patches. Sharp-Shoot-R warns this is likely with neglected guns, so I was getting what I deserved, sigh. I decided to violate the no-brush plan and used some Ed’s Red to brush the barrel. One of the components of Ed’s Red is acetone, which is supposed to dissolve plastic wadding, which I feared was slowing down the Wipe-Out. I got the barrel pretty wet with Ed’s and brushed it 20 times. Tons of dirt and lead came out– more than I had ever gotten out before. It was obvious that the Wipe-Out had done a major job of loosening up the fouling, and I could see a lot of shiny barrel. Alas, I could also still see garbage, so I dried it out and hit it again with Accelerator and Wipe-Out.

After a long day’s soak, the patches still came out dirty, again showing gray powder residue and silver pieces of lead. I again decided to give it some more Ed’s and brushing; even more grime and lead came out than the first time. The inside was far cleaner and shinier. I was encouraged and decided to give it another night’s soak with Accelerator and Wipe-Out. This was the cleanest this barrel has been for at least 15 years. I wondered if maybe I could get it immaculate.

On the morning of day four, I ran a patch through and not much came out. I did give it some more Ed’s Red and about ten strokes with the brush. The Ed’s Red got very little extra out. The barrel looked good, but to be sure, I dried it and gave it another coat of Accelerator followed by Wipe-Out.

I came back about eight hours later, and a clean patch came out. I gave it some more Ed’s and ten more strokes and really couldn’t get anything else out. The barrel looked clean and mostly shiny. It always had a couple of rough spots, probably from machining at the factory, and I could not expect cleaners to fix that. I then did something I usually loath to do, but I figured if there was anything left, this would get it out and show whether Wipe-Out was a success. I took some 0000 steel wool and wrapped a brush with it, soaked it with Ed’s, and gave the barrel several strokes. This is a common trick used by clay bird shooters, but it makes me nervous to use something that strong. The patches afterwards, however, came out clean. I began to wonder if I had actually gotten it perfectly clean, but decided to give Wipe-Out and Accelerator two more hours soak time to see if anything else came out. It didn’t, much to my amazement. It was clean at last!

Wipe-Out was a tremendous help in getting this barrel clean. I have worked a lot harder on it several times and not come anywhere close to clean, before giving up in frustration, which is what allowed the fouling to get so thick. I do wonder if I had had more patience whether Wipe-Out would have done the job alone, but I think the brushing with Ed’s got me there faster.

My next test was on an Enfield No. 4 Mk 1 rifle. This was the standard issue of the British Army in 1941, and my sample was probably made between 1941 and 1945. I don’t know how it was used between then and now. I got it from a widow, and the bore was very nasty. The friend who brokered the deal has a borescope, so I got a good look at the inside of the barrel. It was very ugly and looked a bit like it had a layer of peeling paint in it. I discovered a similar appearing layer inside the magazine and on other small parts, and I suspected it was some sort of rust inhibitor that had been slathered over the rifle and had since dried out.

I had already spent a bunch of time cleaning it and felt I was pretty close, if not there. I had used a plethora of solvents and cleaners on it. First up was Ed’s Red, along with a bunch of brushing and many wet patches. It was still dirty, but I was making progress. I then tried a well-respected commercial cleaner that does well on copper and other fouling. When it pulls copper out of the barrel, the patches turn blue-green, and I didn’t see much of that, so I began to suspect that the barrel was actually not too dirty underneath the coating of gunk. After a bunch more patching and brushing and soaking in solvent, I cleaned it with Ed’s Red to get the other solvent out, as I’m told that it isn’t good to mix chemicals. Since Ed’s is pretty benign compared to many others, I figure it is good for removing stronger chemicals.

Next came a commercial ammonia-based solvent, noted for copper removal. It also gives you blue-green patches as it pulls out copper. Again, there was no real evidence of copper, though it got yet more gunk out.

I was still seeing stuff in the groves and wanted it gone, so I dug out a commercial, abrasive paste. It is claimed that it can’t damage barrels, but I’m leery of abrasives, even though this one is a very effective cleaner. I don’t use it much and reserve if for hard jobs that aren’t responding to other treatments. I did a bunch of scrubbing with it and then used Ed’s Red to remove the paste from the barrel. While I had made a bunch of progress before this, I finally started seeing a fairly smooth and shiny barrel with clean patches coming out the muzzle.

In case you are wondering why I used so many different products, it is because I have found that sometimes one product just works better than another on a particular bit of fouling. Perhaps some powders create a different problem to remove than others. The same could hold true for different types of bullet jackets. Often using one solvent and then another seems to break down the layers of fouling. I’m not sure of the why, but I know I often get better results with this approach. I always like to start with the inexpensive homemade Ed’s Red. It removes a lot of debris, so there is less for the expensive, store-bought stuff to deal with, which is what I mainly depend on to remove copper or lead fouling.

I hope this description of cleaning explains how clean the Enfield should have been. One of the claims from SharpShoot-R is that you can take a gun you have pronounced clean and still get more out with their products. I figured the Enfield was, despite its age, the closest thing I had to a clean gun. Ah well, so it goes. After an hour of just Wipe-Out, without using Accelerator beforehand, a nasty patch came out. Interestingly, this patch, along with being saturated with gray-colored solvent with a hint of blue, had a bunch of small flecks that looked like tiny pieces of paint. I began to wonder if they actually might have painted the inside. They use paint for the exterior finish, so why not inside? The interior of the bore was definitely brighter and smoother than it was before. It had appeared to have what could have been some pitting in the grooves, but the grooves were much better now, so what looked like pitting might have been debris stuck in the barrel.

Okay, so on went a coat of Accelerator, followed with another whoosh of Wipe-Out foam down the barrel. This time, it stayed on overnight. After the soak, I got another dirty patch, but it was a lot better than before. Treatment three appeared to be the winner. The patches that came out this time were clean.

Figuring that turnabout is fair play, I decided to see if Wipe-Out could stand against its own challenge, and I gave the bore a cleaning with Ed’s Red. I ran three wet patches through and then gave it 20 strokes with a wet brush followed with three more wet patches. The first wet patches came out clean, but after the brushing, the next patch had black stuff on it. Surprisingly, though, the following wet patches were clean, which really surprised me. I had expected more dirt. I let the barrel soak with the Ed’s Red for about 15 minutes and dry patched it. Those patches came out clean, which was a big surprise.

I was not surprised that using another solvent got out more dirt. I think it is almost impossible to get everything out of a barrel and that brushing will always bring something out. What surprised me, though, is that so little came out. My bottom line here is that not only did Wipe-Out do a good job of cleaning this barrel, it got a lot of stuff out that didn’t come out during an exhaustive cleaning. I was impressed.

My final effort was a barrel from a 1911. It had about 200 rounds of lead bullets through it. That’s not very dirty by my standards, but there was enough to be a fair test, since the bullets I have been using lately are soft and guilty of a lot of leading. This time I did start with the Accelerator, as I wanted to finish this article, and I need my bench for some other chores. A one-hour soak got out a bunch of stuff, but now I could clearly see a significant lead buildup. Argh. It needed an overnight soak.

The next morning, dirty gray patches came out with pieces of lead. The buildup was clearly reduced. I wanted to get this done, though, so I ran three wet patches of Ed’s through it. I was amazed to see a lot of lead come out. That usually doesn’t happen with just Ed’s. The Wipe-Out had to have loosened the lead, while the Ed’s helped get it out. I gave the bore two strokes with a tight brush and three more wet patches of Ed’s. The last came out clean. I could still see a little bit of lead in the bore, so I decided to see if Wipe-Out could get it out. I put in some Accelerator and sprayed in some more Wipe-Out. After about three hours, I got clean patches and could no longer see any lead. I have gotten this one this clean before, but only after a whole lot more work.

Sharp-Shoot-R says you should get five good cleanings out of the can of Wipe-Out, but that depends on how dirty your gun is. If you keep them cleaner than I do, it should go a lot further. You will be using a lot fewer patches and won’t need many brushes, so that saves some loot. The Accelerator is supposed to handle several cans of Wipe-Out, so it goes a lot further. I should point out that they also make a liquid version of Wipe-Out called Patch-Out. It promises to be more economical. It also won’t be as messy. The foam from Wipe-Out expands and can ooze out of the barrel at both ends, winding up on the floor, on the bench, or in the action. I’m not keen on that. The liquid, therefore, sounds better to me, but I wasn’t able to find it locally. I plan to order some and test it, too.

There are a lot of solvents on the market. At the moment, Brownells sells 51 bore solvents, 8 pastes, and 12 other solvents on their website. I suspect the reason there are so many is that no one has come up with the perfect one. I’ve tried about 15 or so in my lifetime. I have only kept four around, because most of them didn’t work any better than what I was used to. I’m impressed enough with Wipe-Out to add it to my cleaning kit. It isn’t “insta-clean”, alas. You are still doing some work and some waiting. I think there is still room for a brush in your kit and at least one other solvent for general cleaning. I’m partial to Ed’s Red. It’s inexpensive and works well on powder and plastic fouling. I keep an ammo can full of it and just drop stuff in to soak as well as brushing or swabbing receivers out with it. Ed’s and the brush clearly helped get the shotgun and 1911 barrels clean, though I am sure most of the heavy lifting came from Wipe-Out. I’ve never had Ed’s alone work anywhere nearly as well on lead fouling.

I want to try the other Sharp-Shoot-R products, particularly the one for lead. I think Sharp-Shoot-R has some good things going and will help me keep my guns cleaner with less work. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie



Recipe of the Week: Turkey Soup, by P.H.

Ingredients:

  • 1 leftover turkey carcass (from a 10- to 12-pound turkey)
  • 2 quarts water
  • 1 medium onion, halved
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 cup chopped carrots
  • 1 cup uncooked long grain rice
  • 1/3 cup chopped celery
  • 1/4 cup chopped onion
  • 1 can (10-3/4 ounces) condensed cream of chicken or cream of mushroom soup, undiluted

Directions:

  1. Place the turkey carcass in a stockpot; add the water, onion, salt and bay leaves. Slowly bring to a boil over low heat; cover and simmer for 2 hours.
  2. Remove carcass; cool. Strain broth and skim off fat. Discard onion and bay leaves. Return broth to the pan. Add the carrots, rice, celery and chopped onion; cover and simmer until rice and vegetables are tender.
  3. Remove turkey from bones; discard bones and cut turkey into bite-size pieces. Add turkey and cream soup to broth; heat through. Yield: 8-10 servings (about 2 quarts).

o o o

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlogreaders? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Letter Re: An Essential Prep, The Outhouse

There seems to be a general misunderstanding about what constitutes a septic system. I keep reading about the need to pump them out annually or some such. If you don’t mistreat a properly designed system by flushing materials that don’t belong there, it should work for decades with no maintenance. If it needs to be pumped out every year, you must have some kind of storage system, not a septic system, or maybe you’re using toilet paper that doesn’t break down. There is a difference, and the glamorous TV ads ignore the needs of country folks. Also our state agency says additives are neither necessary nor desirable. This is a marvelous system that depends on nature and two types of bacteria, which automatically appear naturally. You can drill your well 50 feet from the lateral lines. Anyway, my reason for writing is regarding MER’s comment about using the septic system in a grid down situation. It’s perfect for that, and he (she) is smart to plan ahead to provide a convenient way to utilize it. I would add that you don’t need water pressure to operate the indoor toilet stool. My barn is slightly uphill and the roof is used to capture rain water for my garden. It isn’t and won’t be potable water because of the galvanized roof, but you don’t need potable water for flushing. I am prepared to run a hose from one of the ground-level barrels to the input line on the toilet stool. I will have about two feet of pressure head at empty, which will probably mean a pretty slow fill with the 50+ feet of small hose. I could raise a barrel or plan on a larger hose (requiring much money for larger hose that withstands freezing), but rapid fill is usually not needed. I like the suggested idea of an outhouse because of the ventilation problem indoors. I have an input to my system for use as a camp toilet dump station without having to do it indoors. It should easily convert to an outhouse, and I will probably at least gather materials in advance of need. But I also like the thought of a normally-functioning indoor facility in cold weather, accomplished so easily with a simple hose. Obviously, if it gets too cold, the line will freeze and it will be time for a water bucket fill, which I anticipated, or an outhouse.

For those who aren’t familiar with how far away to locate the outhouse, the standard distance is to place it so it is too close in the summer and too far away in the winter. – Susan.

HJL Responds: There are a variety of reasons that pumping your septic system every year is recommended, other than just financially supporting your local septic pumping company:

  1. Many modern cleaning chemicals contain things that harm septic systems. Even those that say “safe for septic systems” are generally talking about septic systems that are pumped every year. Finding efficient cleaners that do not contain bleach can be a challenge. It only takes a small about of bleach to destroy the bacteria cultures in a system. In our own house, we occasionally use such products, simply because we like white porcelain.
  2. The septic tank is more than just a storage facility. Proper operation depends upon having sufficient capacity so that solids stirred up from flushing or draining operations have an opportunity to settle out to the bottom before traveling to the drain field. This means that the working depth of sludge in a five-foot tall tank may only be one foot. If the sludge gets deeper than one foot, it really needs to be pumped out.
  3. After waiting years to pump, the sludge may harden into a concrete-like mass, requiring extra labor to remove. If taken care of regularly, the sludge can be pumped in a matter of minutes, but you will pay dearly if the septic pumper has to chip away at the sludge.
  4. Most modern houses dump the laundry into the septic tank. In addition to the bleaches and other chemicals that are not healthy, very few washers actually trap all of the clothing fibers. Most just flush them right into the septic system. All clothing fibers cause issues. It takes a very long time for natural fibers, like linen or cotton, to break down, and synthetics never will.
  5. Septic systems, by design, are supposed to be pumped regularly. That is the whole point of the concrete tank. Pumping every year may be overkill, but waiting 10 years will get you in trouble. Just be thankful that we have giant vacuum trucks to do the job, rather than having to do it by the bucketful.
  6. If you have killed your septic system by using bleach or other chemicals, you will generally know, because it will start smelling foul. If you smell the “septic” smell from the vents on the roof when you flush the toilet, it’s dead. It will start back up on it’s own, but you can hasten the revitalization by flushing 1/4 cup of yeast or septic renewal down the toilet.

In addition, the distance between your septic and well depends on the type of soil you have as well as the depth of your well, and the sealing of the casing. Sometimes it is only 50 feet, and sometimes it is several hundred feet. Check with your local county extension or code enforcement to know for sure.