Notes for Tuesday – September 23, 2014

Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Covert Communications, by J.K.

When it all hits the wall, one thing you should be sure of is that someone is listening to every communication you make within reception range. Many will use scanners to try and find you or your group. If they hear radio activity, especially activity on the short-range radios, they will know you are near. Some will use direction-finding antennas to get your exact location. The idea with radio comms is to use the least power and radio with the least range that will get you reliable comms. If all has gone south, you will want to use radio only when necessary, and then keep your conversation short and don’t transmit from your base; do so from a distance, if possible. The first radio suggested is the Trisquare brand. It can be used anytime without being discovered, except by the military if they are looking for you and have radio direction-finding equipment within range, but the chances of that are slim. The Motorola 900 MHz spread spectrum radio is another option, if you have the load of money to buy them, but they really won’t transmit too much further than the Trisquare, as they are all limited on the amount of power they put out. Though out of production, the “Trisquare” radios can still be found for decent prices and are a MUST HAVE. They make two different kinds, both spread spectrum, but I don’t think the lower priced ones will do text messaging. These have up to a three to four mile range over open areas (and sometimes more if high up or less if there are buildings), and they will not transmit to someone over a blocking hill. The great thing about these radios for use within your land, compound, on field operations, or whatever you choose is that the signal is “Spread Spectrum”. This means that outside of very specialized expensive scanners, used close by, no one will ever know you are on the air. The frequency “Hops” or changes thousands of times per minute and is not picked up by scanners or other radios. This way, no regular scanner or other Trisquare radio can hear you unless the Trisquare radio is programmed with the right codes– ones that you make up. The radios can be linked by a common code, so that all can hear your transmission or you can just transmit to one person in a group of radios. They also permit short text messages for total quiet. They operate in the 900 MHz range, so they have short antennas. To modify the antenna is illegal, but if all goes south and there is no rule of law, that does not mean you cannot get “BNC” connector that you can epoxy to where the antenna was after removing it, then buy a gain antenna from one of the many Electronic-Radio antenna distributors with a BNC mount. Get these in advance, and be sure the antenna is made for the 900 MHz band. Don’t modify the radio unless it’s time to get real; if you use a modified radio and get busted doing so, the FCC will fine you a huge chunk of money, so stay legal unless the rule of law goes away. It’s easy to wire the BNC in the radio. Just open the case halves, remove the two wires from the existing antenna, and solder them to the BNC fitting. A slight bit of filing may be required to fit the BNC connector. Then epoxy the BNC fitting to the case of the radio. Motorola also makes frequency hopping radios in the 900 MHz range, but they cost far more money, and others with that type of radio may be able to copy your transmissions. The antennas you will find will be about one foot in length but have 3db to 6db gain. Having 3db doubles the power output, while 6 db doubles the output of a 3db gain antenna; the cost is about $20.00 each. This will enable you to talk and receive further. It is also a good idea to get a regular short standard antenna with a BNC mount for when you do not need the additional range. There are still batteries and chargers, along with 12 V power plugs for the chargers available on Ebay. Several other things can be done for quiet comms. If you use CB radios, turn the antennas horizontal instead of vertical. This causes the signal to be 90 degrees out of phase with all other CB antennas, and it will greatly limit the ability of other CB radios to receive your transmission. Get some H.T. CB radios. These can operate putting out less power. This may limit their useful range, but it also makes them harder for others to hear. For one-way comms in a small area with a regular 5 watt CB radio, buy a 50 ohm “Dummy Load” and put it right outside the window, on the roof with a piece of coax connecting to the radio and dummy load. Dummy loads will radiate your signal for a short distance. Others at any distance will not be able to hear you. Get a dummy load that will take over 5 watts as a 5 watt dummy load will heat up quickly. Keep transmissions short, and let the dummy load cool between uses. You can make your own with a 20 watt, 50 ohm resistor. Just connect the center conductor of the coax to one side of the resistor and the shield that is under the rubber outside to the other end of the resistor.

Another very good form of communication

Consider amateur 2M/70CM HT’s and a mobile radio for long distance transmissions, if you have the money. Getting your FCC Technician license is very easy and will cost you $14.00. You can find dual band (2 meter and 70 CM) radios on Ebay for $40.00. Better quality radios cost more, but the China radios do work well. I prefer the Yaesu FT-60, which cost around $150.00, because they are built like a tank and you can get a battery pack that takes AA batteries. Be sure to get a 12-volt charger adapter for any radio you get and a AA battery pack, if available for your brand of radio. Buy extra battery packs; the higher the capacity, the better. When using these radios, you can go to low power and turn the antennas sideways for short comms, or you can use full power and be able to communicate from 5 to 50 miles if you’re up high and have a direct shot at the other radio. If repeaters are still up and working, you can extend the range to well over 100 miles in many places. Be aware, others will hear your transmissions with these radios from a couple miles to 50 miles away, depending on the power level used and the lay of the land. Flat and open or up high will get you the most distance. Hills, mountains, buildings, and trees will cut down on the distance the radio will be heard. Many of these radios can be set to 1 watt or less. Always use the least amount of power necessary to communicate. Besides others not hearing you, the battery life will be much longer between charges. I would recommend anyone interested in radio to go on to get their General license after their Technician license and obtain H.F. Radios and antennas, both antennas used in fixed locations and portable ones you can string up in a tree. Get the licenses and equipment now so you will gain experience in their use and in building your own antennas. H.F. radios are expensive and do require up to 20 amps of 12 volt power, so having deep cycle batteries and solar panels or a generator and 25 amp power supply (120v to 12V) is a must. With a H.F. radio, when conditions are right, you can transmit all over the world, and most of the time, anywhere in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. Buying your radio used and making your own antenna will save a lot of money. For the most covert use of H.F. radios, you want to make a 40 meter and 80 meter NIVIS antenna. These are just Dipole antennas made from wire that you hang parallel to the ground from a height of 10′ from the ground. Most of the signal goes straight up and has a range of about 300 miles, as it bounces off the ionosphere. It’s harder for someone with direction-finding equipment to find a station using NVIS antennas, but it’s not impossible. The military used to use NVIS antennas to make it harder for them to be found, before going to more advanced systems. Another type of radio is the Murs. These have limited channels and only put out 2 watts. Better to buy the Amateur radios if you want more distance than FRS/GMRS provides. Last, but not least, is the lowly FRS/GMRS radios. Many of you have them, and they can transmit from 1/2 mile to 30 or 40 miles, mountain top to mountain top. However, the combination is FRS/GMRS radios, not just FRS radios, and here is why. FRS transmits with very little power, therefore it has limited range for close in use without being detected. The GMRS radios put out more power for distances of 1 to 3 miles, sometimes less. Again, turning the radios sideways so the antennas are horizontal will cut down on the received range. These radios do have “Privacy Codes”, but anyone can switch around until they find the code you are on, as they all use the same codes and scanners will hear them, coded or not. Switching codes every hour or time you decide will help not being discovered by other FRS/GMRS radio users, but others will scan the codes. It may help but will get you found if others find which code channel you are on. To legally use a GMRS radio, you must get an FCC license at the cost of $75.00. FRS requires no license. The GMRS license covers your entire family. Ebay has sellers who have used Motorola UHF radios that they can program to the GMRS frequencies that put out 25 watts. These are around $100.00. Be sure they program them for you, as it needs special cables and software for programming. You will also need an outside GMRS antenna, and don’t forget, it will be easy to track the higher-powered radio. Expect an 8 to 15 mile range with the antenna at 30′ or better. Most people who have them (the low-power, not higher-power radios) and use them are not licensed, and there is little chance of being caught as long as you’re not causing problems for anyone else. I’ll leave it to you whether to get licensed or not. That said, do not use any other amateur radios, such as the 2 meter/70CM radios or HF radios without being licensed. (The Trisquare radio does not need a license to operate.) There is a good chance of getting in big trouble if caught, and amateur operators do not take kindly to unlicensed operations of amateur radios; they will track you down and report you. When it all goes south, no one is going to use their call signs. So at that point, have at it. One other way to communicate to others close by, once all rule of law is lost, is if the telephone wires in the peds or on the telephone poles are twisted pairs of wire rather than fiber optic. They are there in bundles of wire with different colors of plastic strips wrapped around the bundle and the wires in each bundle being in pairs of blue/white, orange/white, green/white, et cetera. If you buy the military-type phones, you can connect the same colored pair from the same bundle to two or more different houses, then cut the wires on either side of the furthest connection point. You’ll need battery power for the phones. Voltage the phone uses may vary, but the telephone company uses 48V DC for the talk and low amperage AC for the ringers; military-style phones have cranks to make the other phone ring by producing ringing voltage on the line to the other phone and batteries to give talk power. This only works along a run of cable, until it comes to a cross connect box. At that point, you would have to tone out the wires, find the tone from both ends and connect the two with a jumper. If you know anyone who works or has worked for the telephone company, they will know how to hook things up. In many urban areas and cities, they use fiber optic rather than wire, except for maybe a run of cable along the street. A run of cable is all you need for close by homes. Distant homes will not be able to use this system. You will need to have someone who knows how the wires go and is able to tone and connect the right wires. You can also run your own pair of wires between homes. This brings up the last big thing– POWER. You will want to have a way to keep the batteries charged in your radios. For this, you will need something that will charge 12 volts with an adapter or 120 volts without the adapter for the charger. Solar panels with a charge controller and deep cycle batteries are the best way to go. A generator is also good with a battery charger, but you will run short of fuel in time. Wind generators cause noise and are quite easy to spot at height, which is not the best choice in most places. If you have a stream or river with a drop, there are hydro generators that work well. Most radios take battery packs of rechargeable batteries. Buy a bunch. The Trisquare and FRS/GMRS packs don’t cost much, so buy a lot and keep them charged from time to time. Don’t let them go dead. You will also need lots of AA batteries. Buy both large packs of non rechargeable and a lot of rechargeable AA batteries. Along with this, get at least four to six solar battery chargers and 12 volt chargers for the AA batteries. Buy quality rechargeable batteries; the cheap ones go bad too quickly. The HF radios need 12 volts, so deep cycle batteries are the way to power these. When buying solar panels, buy big ones. It’s far cheaper than buying many smaller ones, and you’ll need all the charging power you can get. Buy two to four 120 watt panels at a minimum. I got 120 amp panels from Ebay for $129.95 each, shipped. (The current price is closer to $150.00, which is still a great deal.) Also, buy a few 10-watt or 20-watt panels as back up or for use in the field; the smaller the panel, the more you will pay per watt. Buy a book on solar power to learn how to correctly hook them up. Don’t build your own panels; they go bad very quickly unless built like commercial panels, and they will not be any cheaper if made right. They make 16 watt roll up panels that can be taken in the field to charge batteries when not near your home or camp. Have at least four full-size deep cycle batteries. You can get them in 12 volts or buy Golf Cart batteries, which are 6 volts; just wire them in parallel to get 12 volts. The big box stores have both types for good prices. If you can find a battery supplier who will sell you deep cycle batteries dry, they will not go bad in storage. You just have to buy enough battery acid to fill them; then give them a good hard charge, and you’ll have good batteries long after the old ones have all gone bad. Keep your deep cycle batteries charging on the specialized trickle chargers that monitor battery condition, and be sure to keep the acid level up with distilled water only. Don’t use an inexpensive/cheap charger; they will ruin your batteries. If you become a radio Amateur with at least a General license, you will discover other ways to communicate, such as digital. With digital, no one but another person with the right ham equipment will be able to copy your transmission, but it will be copied on a scanner and a bunch of sounds, letting others know you may be close. You can also do dish to dish, point to point comms, using old computer routers and some other things for a distance of up to 20 miles. Becoming a Ham radio operator, you will learn much about different ways to communicate through some study and the help of experienced operators.

Two other pieces of equipment to have, if possible.

It is good to have a scanner that has what is called near field reception. This means it will pick up and lock on any frequency within its range. there is no need to have every frequency programmed into it. This way you’ll know if others with radios are getting close and can gather intel. Last, a good portable shortwave receiver is handy. I recommend the Sony ICF-SW7600R (Editor’s note: The ICF-SW7600R has been discontinued.) It is small in size, has great sensitivity, great quality, operates on four AA batteries, and (best of all) it can pick up the H.F. transmissions from amateur radio operators as well as regular short wave stations run by governments (if any are left). Most other short wave receivers will not be able to hear the amateur operators, which is where you will get the best and real information. It’s not cheap at about $160.00, but it is the lowest price radio that will allow you to hear amateur HF radio. If you cannot afford the Sony, at least get a standard short wave radio. I hope this gives many of you some good ideas. Communication will prove to be vital when the way of world as we know it no longer exists.

Keep your powder dry. God Bless.



Letter Re: Sharp-Shoot-R Products

I was truly amazed by the work Scott put into cleaning his firearms! I shoot a fair amount of hard cast lead bullets for plinking and target shooting but keep velocities under 1600 fps, and above that I use jacketed bullets, which seems to simplify my cleaning. One patch lightly gun oiled up and down the barrel three times, then I follow that with a dry patch up and down the barrel three times. Take a lightly oiled scrap of cloth and wipe down the outside of the firearm, then the bolt face and moving parts. If the firearm is of the semi-auto variety, I add a drop to each slide rail, work it in with a finger tip, and cycle the slide a couple of times. Every third cleaning I remove the slide, bbl, gas piston, et cetera and do a more extensive cleaning and oiling, leaving a light film of oil on moving parts. If the fire arm is to be stored two or three years, I make the second patch lightly oiled also. Revolver cylinders get the same treatment as the bore. For years I used kerosene with a little motor oil added to change the color of the mix. Then I tried Army Surplus light gun oil, then Hoppies Gun oil, and now I use Remington gun oil. They all seemed to work well, as long as I didn’t store my firearm in a leaky trailer or in a home with a working swamp cooler. Semi-auto carry pistols require periodic cleaning and shooting to obtain reliability. Learn yours, and stick to it. Your life depends on it. AM

Scot Replies: Thanks so much for the email! We all come up with our own strategies for gun care, and what works for one person may not work for another. I usually do pretty much what you do, when I get home from the range, which is run a patch or two wet with Cleaner-Lubricant-Protectant through the bore and wipe down the exterior with CLP. If the mechanism is dirty enough that I think function might be impaired, I will clean and lube it before putting it away. That said, I am leaving stuff in the barrel and as the layers build up, it gets harder and harder to get the bore completely clean. That’s what has happened to more than one of my guns, and it meant much more work to get them clean when I finally decided to do it.

Oils don’t do a good job of removing copper or lead. CLP products are better but are not as efficient as special purpose cleaners.

Ed’s Red, the cleaner I make at home, is pretty close to what you are using by mixing kerosene and motor oil. Here is the formula for Ed’s:

  • 1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid – GM Spec D20265 or later
  • 1 part K1 Kerosene
  • 1 part Aliphatic Mineral (same thing as the odorless mineral spirits from the home store)
  • 1 part Acetone (CAS#67-64-1)

You can also add lanolin, to make it a better protectant.

The mineral spirits and acetone really help cut through dirt, while ATF is a good penetrant and lubricant, as well as having some ability to prevent corrosion.

Some people add some Murphy’s Soap and ammonia to get copper out, as Ed’s doesn’t do much to copper. It does nail most other fouling.

There is a lot of homemade cleaner information here:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

I keep an ammo can full of Ed’s and throw stuff in to soak. I’ve left things in for a couple of weeks, and they were really easy to get clean! I’m thinking about trying to find a tank that would hold barreled actions.

We normally shoot about 1,000 rounds a month here, using mainly three or four firearms, and they get pretty dirty after a few months. If I don’t do a thorough job on them fairly frequently, I don’t think they perform up to snuff. I also like to have a really clean barrel when I am doing accuracy testing and that means getting all the fouling out, whether lead, copper, powder, or primer.

Lead fouling is a real pain for me. I have one 1911 that doesn’t lead and another that leads badly. I’m using 200 grain SWC loads at around 850 fps, and they should not lead, but they do in that one pistol. Most of my revolvers will lead, much to my aggravation. The blue ones make it very obvious, but the stainless ones are doing it, too. I have a friend with a bore scope, and it reveals all of the nastiness you can find in a barrel.

My bottom-line is that I don’t think a gun is clean if it doesn’t pass a white glove test. If patches with the most aggressive cleaners I’ve found don’t come out clean, then it isn’t clean. I think that makes me a bit obsessive, and I understand if no one wants to follow my course. On the other hand, if someone has an easier method that really gets everything out of the bore (and can convince me it works), please let me know.

Thanks again for the email! I really appreciate hearing from readers.

God Bless! Scot Frank Eire SurvivalBlog Product Review Editor



An Emergency Frequencies List

The following frequency list is part of a blog post from Graywolf Survival.

34.90: Used nationwide by the National Guard during emergencies.
39.46: Used for inter-department emergency communications by local and state police forces.
47.42: Used across the United States by the Red Cross for relief operations.
52.525: Calling frequency used by ham radio operators in FM on their six-meter band.
121.50: International aeronautical emergency frequency.
138.225: Disaster relief operations channel used by the Federal Emergency Management Agency; it is active during earthquakes, hurricanes, floods, and other catastrophic events.
146.52: Used by ham radio operators for non-repeater communications on the two-meter band; it is very busy in many parts of the country.
151.625: Used by “itinerant” businesses, or those that travel about the country. Circuses, exhibitions, trade shows, and sports teams are some of the users you can hear. Other widely used itinerant channels are 154.57 and 154.60.
154.28: Used for inter-department emergency communications by local fire departments; 154.265 and 154.295 also used.
155.160: Used for inter-department emergency communications by local and state agencies during search and rescue operations.
155.475: Used for inter-department emergency communications by local and state police forces.
156.75: Used internationally for broadcasts of maritime weather alerts. 156.80: International maritime distress, calling, and safety channel. All ships must monitor this frequency while at sea. It is also heavily used on rivers, lakes, etc.
162.40: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
162.425: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
162.45: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
162.475: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
162.50: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
162.525: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
162.55: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
163.275: NOAA weather broadcasts and bulletins.
163.4875: Used nationwide by the National Guard during emergencies.
163.5125: The national disaster preparedness frequency used jointly by the armed forces.
164.50: National communications channel for the Department of Housing and Urban Development.
168.55: National channel used by civilian agencies of the federal government for communications during emergencies and disasters.
243.00: Used during military aviation emergencies.
259.70: Used by the Space Shuttle during re-entry and landing.
296.80: Used by the Space Shuttle during re-entry and landing.
311.00: Flight channel used by the U.S. Air Force.
317.70: Used by U.S. Coast Guard aviation.
317.80: Used by U.S. Coast Guard aviation.
319.40: Used by the U.S. Air Force.
340.20: Used by U.S. Navy aviators.
409.20: National communications channel for the Interstate Commerce Commission.
409.625: National communications channel for the Department of State.
462.675: Used for emergency communications and traveler assistance in the General Mobile Radio Service.







Odds ‘n Sods:

For those who prefer to read novels in Spanish, my second novel, Survivors (“Supervivientes“) is now available in trade paperback and and ebook for Kindle readers. And of course Patriots (“Patriotas“) is also available in Spanish. – JWR

o o o

New lab incidents fuel fear, safety concerns in Congress. – G.P.

o o o

iPhone ATM PIN code hack- HOW TO PREVENT. – T.P.

Hugh Adds: Careful with this video … I got sucked into this guy’s YouTube channel and spent nearly an hour watching his videos before I realized I was off on a tangent. Very enjoyable.

o o o

“We Have Been a Paramilitary Organization”: How the Police Talk When They Think We’re Not Listening. – B.B.

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New Jersey Newspapers Call For Mandatory Gun Confiscation



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Without the right of secession, there is no freedom. Any entity that is part of a union but does not have the right to leave is not free.” – Bruce Willis



Notes for Monday – September 22, 2014

September 22nd in the birthday of the late Lieutenant Colonel Ronald Reid-Daly, who founded and commanded the Rhodesian Selous Scouts. He was born 1928, and he died August 9, 2010. His history of the Selous Scouts, titled Pamwe Chete, is fascinating to read, but it is a very hard-to-find book.

I should also mention that I jumped the gun last month. September 22nd, 1290 is the birthday of one of my favorite fictional characters, Bilbo Baggins (in shire reckoning).

o o o

Today, we present another entry for Round 54 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,100+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  11. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  12. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  13. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  10. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  11. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
  9. Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).

Round 54 ends on September 30st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Home Power Systems: Photovoltaics by L.K.O.

[Editor’s Note: This article is part of a series of feature articles by our Central Rockies Regional Editor about alternative/sustainable/renewable energy (RE) solutions for self-sufficiency. Previous related articles in SurvivalBlog that complement this one are: “Home Power Systems: Batteries,” “Home Inverter Comparison: Off Grid and Grid Tied,” “Home Power Systems: Micro Hydro”, and “Energy Efficiency and Conservation.” Upcoming article topics in this Home Power Systems series include: Wind Generators, Solar Water Distillers, Solar Ovens, and Solar Water Heating.]

Photovoltaic History: Maturing technology and infrastructure

Photovoltaics, or PV for short, is the technology that converts sunlight directly into electricity. PV has come a long way from the discovery of the photovoltaic effect in 1839 by French physicist Alexandre-Edmund Becquerel, the first practical silicon solar cell in 1954 by Bell Labs, commercial production by Western Electric at $1,785/Watt a year later, and Telstar’s power source in 1962. Early commercial uses included mountaintop radio repeaters, orbiting satellite power, and various experimental uses. Most of the early consumer adoption, starting in the 1960s and 1970s, was from off-grid pioneers who were challenged by high prices and unwieldy technology of not only the PV panels themselves but also the battery, inverter, and charge controller technologies needed to complete a practical home power system. In 1977, PV panels were first installed on the White House and world-wide production of PV cells surpassed 500 kW; a year later the first solar-powered calculators hit the market.

Even in those early days of PV, the simplicity of energy that comes directly from the sun, uses no moving parts and lasts for decades lured experimenters onward to refine and move towards perfecting the technology. There are numerous other reasons why one would want to switch from grid power to solar, including self-reliance/self-sufficiency/independence, reliability/stability, environmental, financial, maintenance and social/geopolitical ones; this article gives a quick overview of these motivations for PV use.

Home Power magazine, which started in the late 1980s, did much (and still does to this day) to chronicle, educate, and nurture the fledgling home energy market with PV as the flagship technology, adding inverters, home-scale wind turbines, and small hydro as complementary options that work best together to provide year-round energy coverage. Home solar electric systems were spurred onward in that era by surplus PV panels that still had significant useful life after their commercial and government lifespans had been reached; those PV pioneers showed that, even with the growing pains of an immature technology at the time, it still was a viable alternative. Inverters now put out better sine wave AC power than any utility company, leap-frogging over the early awkward days of modified square-wave systems that were buzzy, inefficient, and required a lot more technical savvy to install and maintain. Battery and other interconnection technologies and safety advances have moved home PV systems from home-brew and experimental status, a few decades ago, to mainstream appliance status today.

As the technology and momentum of economies of scale have improved, the cost per PV watt has continued to plummet, from over $70/Watt in 1977, to a mere 36 cents/Watt today, in 2014. Contrast this with the price of gasoline (the linked chart is adjusted for inflation) over about the same period of time, and PV looks more and more attractive all the time, compared with running a generator as a primary alternative energy source, for example. Nowadays one doesn’t have to go far to see PV panels used on traffic lights and equipment, on commercial buildings, and in ever-increasing numbers on residential buildings as well. A couple of decades ago, the prohibitive cost of PV panels and all the related gear (batteries still being one of the more expensive components, but advances are happening there as well) needed to complete a PV home power system stretched out the “break-even”– the time for a system to pay for itself– to spans of a decade or more. Now, with this time frame shrinking due to steadily declining costs of essential all-system components, more companies are manufacturing PV and more are sprouting up to offer PV home installations, sales, and maintenance service.

Recently a milestone was reached in a country not particularly notorious for having abundant solar energy. Germany is evidently producing over half of its electrical energy from photovoltaics! This related document has an interesting map/graphic on page 12, showing the theoretic space requirement to meet the electricity demand of the world, and it appears to be about half the size of Portugal; this is more evidence that the technology, infrastructure, and momentum is growing to make solar electricity a maturing option to our planet’s energy needs. So the obvious question arises: Why aren’t other countries, particularly ones like the United States that have significantly more solar potential, following suit, or better yet, leading the way in this regard? Instead of pondering this rhetorical question from a theoretical standpoint, a more relevant contemporary practical question might be to ask when, rather than if, is the best time to incorporate PV in a home energy system. Obviously location is important; as you can see from this solar map of the USA, if you live in the deserts of southern California, Arizona, New Mexico, or west Texas, your solar PV potential is superb, but if can make a go of it, why not other less sunny locations as well?

If you’ve eagerly followed this industry for decades, or even if you have not but are now curious, and have waited until PV systems are cost effective, your wait may be over. According to the “Trends in PV & Grid Residential Electricity Prices (U.S. Annual Averages)” chart (one of the clickable rotating slides on the page), it appears that last year (2013) the cost of Solar (which continues to drop) overtook the cost of Grid power (which continues to climb) at about 12 cents per kiloWatt-hour (kWh). What this means is that, in general, in the U.S., it’s now more cost effective to use solar than grid power, with everything being equal. What are we waiting for? If you live in a densely wooded area in Alaska with zero solar potential or have draconian CC&Rs in your neighborhood against solar, you might have other obstacles, but now, at least the overall cost issue should no longer be a primary deterrent to at least considering a PV-powered home. 🙂

PV System Types

To get a sense of the general categories of PV systems available and which might be suitable for a use you and your family might have, let’s explore four basic types of PV systems:

PV-Direct: The simplest of systems with the fewest components, a system of this type in simplified form consists primarily of a PV panel (or panels) and whatever load is being powered, along with whatever wiring is needed. Since there is no storage (e.g. batteries), this type of system will not work if the sun isn’t shining; the best uses for systems like this include ventilation fans and other efficient air-conditioning (since that’s usually when those loads are needed most anyway) and water pumping.

Off-grid: This type of system does not interface with utility (grid) power at all. These originally were most common in remote locations where the cost of bringing in power lines was prohibitive, and they were the only viable option in many cases. With today’s improvements in design, efficiency, and performance, combined with the low cost of newer systems, even locations with grid power available might consider an off-grid system because of the advantages of independence, which include a somewhat simpler system, since grid disconnects and switching aren’t required, to say nothing of the legal, regulatory, and financial hook-ups required; although, to be fair, these “hoops” are getting smaller and easier to jump through than ever, compared to the PV pioneer days. These systems need a battery (or bank of interconnected batteries) to store PV-acquired solar electricity for nighttime and/or overcast weather usage, a charge controller to protect the battery/bank from overcharging, and optionally (although nowadays this is the most common choice) an inverter to convert the Direct Current (DC) power from the PV array to Alternating Current (AC) for use with AC household appliances, and all the required disconnects, monitoring, and associated electrical safety gear. Fortunately, the equipment needed for a system like this is now easily and safely installed by certified professionals or any homeowners who will avail themselves of a bit of training, which can be found online for free.

Grid-tied systems with battery-backup: Similar to an off-grid setup, this approach is in some ways the “best of both worlds” approach, in that it provides grid backup for the local power (PV and/or wind, micro-hydro, generator, or other source/s) and local backup for the grid power. It’s also the most complex and hence, most expensive, but this might be worth it, considering the versatility, and particularly situations where reliable power is a must regardless of any other considerations. If you run life-sustaining biomedical equipment or run Internet servers or have other critical power-reliability requirements, this might be ideal for your situation. The additional components (above what is needed for a comparable off-grid system) include manual and/or automatic switching, often mandated, or at least regulated by the utility company and typically metering of both grid-supplied and locally-supplied power. Speaking of metering, an important consideration to make before deciding on a system of this type, is whether or not your location has net metering available and what the particular details are. For example, in some locations, e.g. Ashland, Oregon, will purchase excess power, if you generate more than you use in a given month, at full retail, rather than wholesale prices. Grid parity is a related topic you might want to look into. Even more fundamental than this, some locations still don’t allow full hybrid systems like these, so the point might be moot; always check with local, state, and other regulatory agencies and utility companies before making any significant investments in time or energy with a system like this to make sure it will be viable, not merely from a technological and financial point of view but also from a political one.

Grid-tied systems without batteries: Similar to the grid-tied systems with batteries, these systems provide power from both local and off-site sources, but if the off-site (grid) power goes down, you’ll be without power for the duration of the outage. If you have a reliable grid utility with minimal outages, this type of system might work for you. (A bit of phone research a decade ago revealed that the home I bought was on the same sub-grid as the local hospital, which had multiple backup sources and explained why outages were so rare, compared with other places I had lived; this home would have been a good candidate for a system like this.) The “grid-outage-becomes-my-outage” disadvantage is somewhat mitigated by the advantage of reduced system cost, since batteries (and to a lesser extent charge controllers) are non-trivial expenses in systems that store excess power in batteries, with or without the grid-tied connections. Systems like these can be installed by companies, such as RealGoods Solar, SolarCity, SunRun, Trinity Solar, and others. If you opt to go with a system like this (and all of the siting, regulatory, zoning, CC&Rs*, legal, financing and other issues have been addressed), most likely you won’t need to be directly involved in the selection of PV panels and other components, since an installer would likely guide your family through this process, but you might still want to familiarize yourself with the technology, which the remainder of this article will address.

* If your Home-Owner’s Association (HOA) has Covenants, Conditions & Restrictions (CC&Rs) you might want to check their rules first, since their local jurisdiction might constrain the nature and scope of your proposed solar project, even if city, county, state, and federal particulars are all a “go”. For example, if you’re on 40 acres with no visible neighbors for miles, there’s not likely to be much in the way of issues in this regard, but if your suburban neighbors “view” looks directly at your roof from 50 feet away, getting “buy-in” from the neighbors and the HOA is well advised. Also, if you’re considering a grid-tied system, make sure you check into your home’s specific net-metering and the wholesale/retail particulars with your electric utility, and get all pertinent details before calculating any financial figures, such as budgets and/or break-even/payback analyses.

Enlist Expertise Before Starting Your PV Project

For all of these system types, it is vitally important that you do your research first; research technical requirements, such as power budget, anticipated loads and peak demand, system sizing, and so forth, and all the safety, regulatory, and utility requirements, which will vary by location, type of system, and what sources you plan to use (e.g. PV, small/micro-hydro, wind, et cetera). Even if you plan to do much of the design and/or installation yourself, it is always a good idea to have a licensed solar professional review your proposed PV (and/or other alternate energy) system before you begin and certainly before you invest your hard-earned time and money into a new system. Also, make sure to check if there are Renewable Energy (RE) Incentive programs and/or Net Metering policies in effect.

Molecular Nitty-gritty

Most solar cells that comprise PV solar panels are made of silicon, which is not any different, in principle, from the sand on your favorite beach or the silicon in SiO2 (Silicon Dioxide, a.k.a. quartz) in your favorite hiking mountain, but those silicon atoms are obviously a bit more sophisticated after they’ve been made into PV solar energy cells. The two primary categories of PV cells are crystalline silicon or thin-film. Crystalline silicon modules, which enjoyed earlier widespread adoption in the history of PV, can use monocrystalline, multicrystalline, or ribbon silicon. Here’s an article with more details on The Difference Between Thin-Film And Crystalline-Silicon Solar Panels. Thin film includes amorphous silicon and a variety of other semiconductor technologies, such as Copper Indium Gallium Diselenide (CIGS), Cadmium Telluride, and other compositions. While these newer approaches to making PV cells garner a lot of media attention, they only comprise about 20% of of the installed base of PV systems, with the crystalline modules doing the majority of the planet’s current PV solar workload.

Efficiency and System Sizing

Start here, with a conservation and efficiency overhaul, even if you end up postponing or even abandoning a RE (Renewable Energy) project. You’ll be glad you started with the essential conservation/efficiency audit, since you’ll save money and minimize your exposure/dependency on external sources of power, while reducing your family’s carbon footprint. Since PV systems (purchased outright at least) are still typically more expensive than several years worth of grid utility bills, the most important first step is almost always to do some serious-but-fun analysis, and often re-thinking, about the home energy budget. It’s fun, because if you stick with it even partial implementations can sweeten your pocketbook while reducing energy consumption. A prior article in this series details important conservation and energy efficiency considerations; a thorough review and elimination of energy wasters from small to large, including replacing watt-guzzling appliances and lighting and just plain old mindful, common sense (free!) lifestyle adjustments to one’s daily energy usage, plus (where appropriate) low-cost upgrades. Also, if remodeling or designing for new construction, solar and efficient home planning can all make a tremendous difference in the sizing of a PV system. If, for example, you can go from four dozen PV panels to two or even one dozen, that can make a tremendous difference in system cost and break-even/payback timing. Another factor to consider is that PV modules in some cases can be added to or subtracted from an installation if one’s energy budget changes, e.g. kids that take marathon showers and leave lights on 24/7 go off to college.

How Much to Hire Out?

If you have a bit of technical aptitude, possess some mechanical prowess, and like to learn new skills, you might want to consider doing some of your own solar design and/or installation with guidance from a seasoned, licensed solar expert. Since we’re talking about electrical wiring and potentially-lethal voltages and other safety considerations, an unguided installation should be out of the question. At minimum, one should enlist a licensed, solar installer with reputable credentials and references from the beginning of a PV project to, at least, double-check (reality check) your energy budget, array sizing calculations, array location, thermal factors, wiring sizing, and diagrams, component selection, safety considerations, parts list, technical skills, planning, et cetera. This will minimize expense, delay, re-work, and other costly and/or hazardous pitfalls. If you find you really enjoy this sort of work, careers in this industry are burgeoning.

PV Panel Selection

Obviously, PV panels are just one component in a Renewable Energy (RE) system, so they must be considered in the context of an overall, well-thought-out design that considers the specific home’s energy budget, array location and sizing, battery sub-system sizing, wiring and safety considerations, geographic and climatic factors, et cetera. Having made that caveat, however, one can select from an ever-growing array (pun-intended) of solar PV manufacturers, models, sizes, and other variables. Here is an extensive chart (Excel spreadsheet) of their 2012-2013 PV Module Buyer’s Guide, prepared by the folks at Home Power Magazine (currently the 2nd link on their Web Xtras page), which lists over 900 PV Manufacturer/Model combinations in the spreadsheet rows, and over two dozen parameters/specifications in the spreadsheet columns, such as rated power per square foot, module efficiency, maximum power voltage, open-circuit voltage, short-circuit current, various temperature coefficients, fuse Amperage ratings, connector types, length, width, depth, frame color, weight, overall warranty, power warranty, and more. Here’s a general overview article on Choosing PV modules from the same folks. If some of these terms don’t ring a bell, ask your solar installer or PV consultant to explain them to you, what to look for, and why.

Digging in Deeper

Since each system design is generally fairly unique, it would take volumes to cover even fairly generalized details of specific classes of PV systems; this is yet another reason to contact a solar PV pro ASAP in your design process to save you time looking into minutiae that might not apply to your particular situation. However, if you spend a little time familiarizing yourself with PV jargon, technology, systems, components, and approaches, you might find you will be better equipped to ask the right questions. If this article has piqued your interest to learn more, Home Power Magazine (among numerous online resources) in addition to helpful overviews of general subject areas, has superb coverage of both general and specific topics, such as Professional Load Analysis & Site Survey, ENERGY BASICS: Shading and Solar-Electric Systems, Free Tools for Estimating PV System Output, Successful PV Site Evaluation, Solar Equipment and Products, Optimizing a PV Array with Orientation & Tilt, iPhone Apps for Solar Geeks, PV Array Mounting Options, numerous examples of first-hand accounts and project profiles of those who have used off-grid PV systems for decades, such as this one, small, medium, and large PV systems, solar home tours, and many more.

Another excellent resource is the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), which has resources such as this Consumer’s Guide: Get Your Power from the Sun and other resources for solar and other RE topics.

Happy PV solar explorations! – L.K.O. (SurvivalBlog’s Central Rockies Regional Editor)



Scot’s Product Review: Mosin-Nagant M91/30

A reader suggested that I take a look at lower cost firearms, particularly military surplus ones, and I thought it was a great idea. The one he told me that would make a good start is the Russian Mosin-Nagant, which is currently the easiest to find and cheapest surplus rifle on the market. It is chambered in a .30 caliber round, 7.62x54R, and there are a lot of them available at the moment coming from old war reserves in Russia and Ukraine. They were refurbished and put in storage when replaced by more modern arms. Russia and Ukraine are both apparently making some money by selling them off, but with current tensions in the region today, it is hard to say how much longer we will be able to get them. There are embargos against Russia while Ukraine could decide they need to keep theirs. If you think you might want one after reading this, you probably should act in a timely manner.

I should point out that there have been Mosin-Nagants available from a number of other countries, but the Russian-made ones are what we can find easily today, so that’s what I’m writing about here.

Why, by the way, would one want an old military rifle rather than a new sporter? Cost is a huge reason. You can find them from about $130 and up in usable condition. If you are short of funds but need a hunting rifle, one of them could do the trick. Don’t write them off for self-defense, either. They are not as trendy as a tricked out AR, but they have decent accuracy and the cartridge hits hard. I know people who like to have extra weapons in case their neighbors need something during a crisis. We can debate that idea, but if it sounds good to you, the Mosin-Nagant fills that need easily. It is easy to learn to shoot, and you could outfit a squad with ammo for under $2,000, which is just a bit more than a single fancy AR with magazines will set you back. Another plus that I’ll elaborate on later is that ammunition can be had at great prices.

There is also domestic politics to consider. An old bolt action rifle is probably going to be one of the last things to get regulated.

I can’t deny that there is an historical appeal as well. I majored in military history, and apparently the interest is genetic as my nine-year-old son is equally fascinated by it. Any old rifle makes his eyes light up, and it was a joy to let him pick this one out off of the rack. Anyway, let’s get back to the rifles. They have been around for a long time; the 91 in the name stands for the year they were adopted, 1891. The Mosin-Nagant was the front line service rifle for the Russian Empire and its successor, the Soviet Union, until the SKS semi-automatic carbine was adopted in 1949. It had a front line life of 60 years, but it didn’t, however, just fade away in 1949. They are still showing up on the world’s battlefields, thanks to how widely they were distributed to Russia’s allies and communist insurgents.

In my youth, they were disparaged by most shooters as inferior to the Mauser and Springfield. I tend to agree, but there aren’t very many Springfields or Mausers available these days, and they usually cost considerably more. Despite not having the snob appeal, Mosin-Nagants are serviceable and available at good prices.

They have a five round magazine that can be fed with stripper clips or by single loading rounds through the top. Since the cartridges are rimmed, you have to take care to keep the rim of the each cartridge in front of the rim of the cartridge below it, but it isn’t hard to do.

There are three variants usually seen these days. The most common is the M91/30 rifle. The 30 stands for 1930, when the Soviets made some updates to the design. This is what the line grunts got in most of WWII. It has a long, 29-inch barrel, which is less handy than I would prefer but more manageable than I expected. The overall length is 48.5 inches. There are also carbines with 20-inch barrels that are much handier at 40-inches long. This is actually shorter than many of today’s commercial bolt rifles. The carbines would have become the standard front line weapon, but semi-autos beat them out. The last variant is the sniper rifle based on the 91/30. Mosin-Nagants that were actually built as a sniper rifle, complete with scope, are rare and probably should be considered a collectible rather than a shooter. There are, however, a lot of bits and piece out there, including replica parts, that allow folks to build reproductions. Some of the rifles sold as real snipers are probably reproductions and should have sold for less, so buyers should beware. A well done replica can, however, make a nice rifle. Be aware that Mosin-Nagant snipers aren’t what we think of as sniper rifles today. They were pretty much just a regular rifle fitted with a scope. The scope did make it easier to hit targets further away, but they were not the highly tuned weapon an American sniper expects.

There will be two subspecies of the rifle encountered– ones with round or hex shaped receivers. The hex shaped ones are older. In the mid-1930’s, the Russians altered the original hex shape to a round one to make them easier to produce. Hex ones will usually cost most, partially because there are fewer of them and also because a lot of us think that the older guns might have been made better. Pre-WWII guns are usually better finished than guns made during the war.

The 91/30 rifles with round receivers usually range from about $130 to $185 in a local gun shop, depending on condition. You can get them online and have them delivered to a local dealer (or yourself if you have a Federal Firearms License). A hex receiver rifle will probably command another $50 or so. The M44 carbines are now more than $200. There was an earlier carbine, the M38 that some like better, but they are hard to find now. The M44 has an integral bayonet while the M38 doesn’t, so it is lighter. Reproduction snipers, when available, go for $400 and up.

The 91/30 rifles come in at a bit under nine pounds. The carbine without the bayonet is 7.5 pounds while the version with the bayonet is about nine pounds. I haven’t had a chance to weigh one that has had the bayonet removed, but I’m assuming the weight would go down to under eight pounds. Collectors frown on removing the bayonet as you have to deal with a heavily staked in screw so it usually shows that someone has been mucking about with it. I’ll leave that moral decision up to the owner. We’re history buffs here, so we would probably leave it on, but if I wanted it off, I would be sure it isn’t some rare collectible before drilling out that screw.

You will usually find a date of production stamped on the receiver, but it might have been buffed or ground off when a rifle was refinished. Rifles made during WWII are usually not finished as well as pre-war rifles and sometimes show a lot of machining marks. Some look downright crude and ugly.

They were made in a number of countries, including the United States, which produced them in WWI for the Imperial Russian Army. Some of these Mosin-Nagants were even issued to U.S. troops participating in the interventions in Russia after the Bolshevik revolution. Some of the rifles made outside of Russia are considered to be very high quality, particularly the Finnish versions. The Germans captured a lot of them in WWII and happily turned them on their former owners. Carbines continued to be made after WWII with production stopping around 1949.

The cartridge itself is still in use in front line arms, such as machine guns and sniper rifles. At 123-years-old, it is the oldest military round in use today. The “R” in the name stands for rimmed, which is truly unusual in military ammunition. The U.S. gave up rimmed military rounds in 1903. The only other rimmed military round to rival the life of the Russian round was the British .303, which lasted into the 1950’s in general use, though some sniper rifles in .303 kept showing up for many years afterwards.

This round is not to be confused with the more modern and less powerful 7.62x39mm used in the SKS and AK-47. It is a full power service cartridge, comparable to the .308 Winchester in power. Both rounds get about 2,800 feet per second with 150 grain bullets. It is accurate enough to be used effectively for sniping. It can be an excellent hunting round for medium and large game in North America. I might want something bigger for grizzly or brown bears (a 40mm sounds good if the bear is in a bad mood), but plenty have been taken with the .308 with good bullet placement. One key to good hunting performance is bullet selection; hunting ammunition needs soft point bullets. Most of the ammunition you will find, however, is going to be surplus full metal jacket (FMJ), which is not good stuff to humanely take game with. Soft points are out there, but you may have to work to find it. I had no luck locally, but I found some online . It can run from about $0.50 to about a dollar or so a round.

Don’t neglect to get some surplus military FMJ, though. Shooting is fun and practice is necessary; you can get the surplus stuff for as little at $0.20 a round, which beats current reloading costs. It might be good to act now, as current international politics could impede the flow of cheap ammo to the U.S. One warning to heed, though, is that virtually all surplus ammo is corrosive and will rot your rifle quickly, if you don’t clean it immediately after shooting. Make sure your cleaning poison is rated for neutralizing and removing corrosive fouling. Some aren’t. One thing that will work is boiling water, especially if you add detergent. What makes corrosive ammo corrosive are the salts used in the primer, and these dissolve in hot water. You still need something to finish getting out the copper, powder, and carbon, but the hot water gets a lot of dirt out. It also seems to loosen some of the other fouling. Some people swear by Windex, but I haven’t tried that yet. After you are done, you need to put a good preservative in the barrel to protect it.

Speaking of reloading, I have found it very difficult to get bullets for 7.62mmx54R. Most manuals recommend a .310 to .312 diameter bullet, which means the .308 diameter ones for American .30 caliber rounds won’t deliver much accuracy. This is the same diameter as usually found in .303 British and 7.7mm Japanese ammunition. These rounds aren’t all that popular these days for reloaders, and since the manufacturers have had so much trouble keeping up with demand for more popular rounds, they haven’t been making much for these cartridges. Truthfully, as long as surplus ammunition is available at such good prices, I see little reason to load practice ammunition, which I suspect is a common attitude that gives few incentives to ramp up production. On the other hand, I would like to be able to load some hunting ammunition and tune it to my rifle. Until bullets start showing up, that won’t happen.

If you reload, be careful as you work up a load, particularly with the larger diameter bullets. These are old rifles, and there is no need to make magnums out of them. A reasonable load will be much more powerful than a .30-30– a round that has put a lot of deer in the freezer.

We bought our Mosin-Nagant, a Model 91/30, from a nearby gun shop. I could have found one for less online and had it shipped to a local dealer, but I really wanted to be able to look it over in person. It came with a bayonet, which truly excited my history buff son. He picked out a 1932 with the hex receiver. We also looked at a 1943 with the round receiver, but there were a lot of machining marks on it, and it just looked pretty ugly. The 1932, while not up to a custom sporter in finish, still looks pretty good. The stock has a lot of dings and dents but appeared solid.

I did mention that they are long. I really wanted a carbine, but I couldn’t find one locally. If you can find a good carbine, I think you would be happier with the nine fewer inches of length. It will mean more muzzle blast, though. There are a number of YouTube videos of folks showing off the fireball you can get with some of the surplus ammo fired from carbines. This is thanks to the fact that most surplus ammo is loaded for longer barreled weapons, like machine guns and sniper rifles. If you load your own, you can use a powder that will make it more bearable.

The action operates fairly smoothly, though not, in my view, up to a Mauser or Enfield. It is, however, better than some current commercial rifles. There is a kind of catch, just before the handle arrives at the top of the stroke, that I find annoying. It cocks on opening, like the Mauser 98 and most modern bolt rifles. The bolt handle sticks straight out, if you don’t have a sniper version. We are generally used to turned down bolt handles these days, thanks to the prevalence of scopes, which need the handle bent for clearance. The straight handle presents serious problems, if one wants a conventionally mounted scope. You have to find a bent bolt handle from the sniper variant for this. There are a number of vendors and custom shops that carry these. The bolt body can be changed by the user, thankfully. Another alternative is to mount the scope over the barrel in the Scout rifle position. I expect to have another review on this option.

One interesting discovery I made was that the straight handle is helpful for lefties who can more easily grasp it when reaching over the action to operate the bolt.

I have seen criticisms that one cannot operate the bolt while the rifle is shouldered. We can do that with ours, but it is nowhere near as easy as with a Mauser or Enfield. I suspect that if one has a tight Mosin-Nagant or one with a rough action, it would be difficult. Truthfully, I don’t see very many shooters who keep bolt rifles shouldered when working the action, so it might be a moot point for most.

The safety is probably the worst part of the rifle. You have to pull back the knob on the cocking piece and rotate it to the left to safe the rifle. This is awkward and takes a lot of effort. What’s worse is that it is equally hard to unsafe it for firing. Some shooters leave the bolt in the up position and close it before making a shot. I think that would work fine on a stand, but it bothers me for walking around. I could imagine the bolt getting pushed closed and something hitting the trigger. Others leave the chamber empty and work the bolt to fire, but that’s noisy. I’m looking at some improvements that can be installed and will write about them in another article.

The other worst feature is the rear sight. It is located ahead of the receiver on the barrel and is one of those stepladder arrangements with a small open U notch that can be set all the way out to 2,000 meters. I can’t see that far, so that doesn’t do me much good, and I find the notch is difficult to use quickly at more reasonable ranges. I have been truly spoiled by the excellent aperture sights found on U.S. rifles since the 1917 Enfield. That said, you can get hits with these sights, but you have to work harder.

Scopes can fix a lot of the sight issues. I’ve already mentioned the issue of the straight bolt handles interfering with conventional scope mounting. I’m in the process of investigating some alternatives that keep you from having to deal with that and will report on them. Stay tuned.

The bore on our rifle looked okay. It wasn’t bright, but it has sharp rifling. I cleaned it and not much came out, but after running five rounds through it, I was able to get a tremendous amount of carbon and copper fouling out of it. I am assuming that shooting it somehow loosened things up. There is no way five rounds could have deposited as much copper as I got out. It continues to spew forth carbon and copper fouling after each range trip, so I may have purchased a copper mine instead of a rifle.

One oddity of the Mosin-Nagant is that it was designed to be used with the bayonet fixed. That means the sights are calibrated with the bayonet attached, which affects where the rounds hit. You may have to learn to apply Kentucky windage or make some modifications. Most people find they shoot high, which means raising the front sight. Some folks put a piece of heat shrink tubing on the front and trim it to the right length. On the other hand, some have found the sights close enough to hunt with. Ours shoots about eight inches high at 100 yards, and I plan to try the heat shrink remedy when I get time. The front sight is well protected, and I think this should work just fine.

My son noticed that the stock on our rifle is a bit shorter than those on some of our other long arms. I think a little of that has to do with the fact that people are taller today than they were when Mosin-Nagants were being issued. Most of it, however, is probably due to climate. Russians had to wear thick, heavy clothing much of the year, and the more you wear, the shorter the stock should be. The stock is, however, long enough for me to shoot comfortably, as I’m several inches over six foot.

I was surprised at how comfortable the rifle is to shoot. The weight helps, but I think the long barrel has a lot to do with it. There just isn’t as much blast and flash as I’ve gotten used to from short-barreled modern weapons. It actually weighs less than an M1 Garand but seems about the same to me for recoil.

The trigger pull was, as expected, heavy. It breaks at eight pounds, but it is pretty clean and consistent, which helps a bunch. For me, a gritty trigger with a lot of creep is harder to manage than a heavier one that is clean.

So, how does it shoot? Not bad, actually. I did the groups of record with Priv Partizan 150 grain soft points. I need to insert the usual disclaimers that I’m not a great shot, the trigger is really heavy, and the sights are rotten. After all that, I got four inch groups at 100 yards, which is perfectly adequate for deer or hog hunting. I am sure a better shot, particularly with a scope, can do considerably better than that. I’ve seen a number of modern rifles that couldn’t do much better.

I’m really glad I got this rifle, if only because of its historical significance. I long resisted buying military bolt rifles, because I’m left-handed and they just don’t run as well for lefties, but I now regret not buying them when they were cheap and available. Besides collecting them, they are fun to shoot and can serve as decent hunting rifles. They were made to endure the worst war could throw at them, and I suspect they will hold up better than many of the current commercial rifles. It won’t be the first one I grab in a crisis, but I know I would be happy to have it as a backup or as something I can loan a deserving person. It sure hits harder than an AR-15.

I found a couple of Mosin-Nagant enthusiast pages to be very helpful. The second one has some pretty detailed information of caring for these rifles.

http://mosinnagant.net/

http://russian-mosin-nagant.com/

There are also a couple of useful books. 7.62mmR Mosin Nagant Handbook which is pretty much the user’s manual and The Mosin-Nagant Rifle which is a history text on the rifle and its variants. You can get by without them since much of the information can be found on the Internet, but the books are really nice to have. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie



Recipe of the Week: Cornbread Salad, by L.H.

This somewhat weird-sounding salad is fabulous. It makes too much for any but a very large family to finish; you may want to reserve it for covered-dish dinners and potlucks. Also, when you take it to your occasion, tuck a couple of copies of the recipe in your pocket or purse, because you WILL be asked for the recipe.

Ingredients:

  • 2 boxes (8.5 oz.) Jiffy brand corn muffin mix (or any cornbread recipe that makes an 9×13 cake-pan full)
  • 2 cans (14.5 oz. ea.) pinto beans, rinsed and drained
  • 2 cans (14.5 oz. ea.) whole kernel corn, drained
  • 1 large green bell pepper, diced
  • 2 large tomatoes, diced (or 1 can 14.5 oz. diced tomatoes, drained)
  • 1 small red onion, diced
  • 2 c. (8 oz.) shredded cheddar cheese
  • 16 oz. favorite ranch dressing

Directions:

  1. Ahead of time prepare and bake cornbread according to directions and cool.
  2. Cut one 3×3” slice out and set aside.
  3. In glass 9×13” casserole/cake dish place half the remaining cornbread, crumbled into medium-ish chunks.
  4. Sprinkle over with 1 can of beans, 1 can of corn, ½ the bell pepper, ½ the tomatoes, ½ the onion, and ½ the cheese. (At this point you may want to give everything a good press-down with your clean hand, to allow it all to fit.)
  5. Drizzle ½ the ranch dressing over all.
  6. Repeat layers.
  7. Crumble reserved piece of cornbread to fine crumbs and sprinkle over top of salad.
  8. Chill at least 1 hour.

Makes 8-12 servings.

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlogreaders? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Two Letters Re: Septic Tanks

Dear Editor, Recently there have been comments regarding septic tanks, how long they should last et cetera. As of today, if you want to spend money to pump them out every few years, more power to you. However, if there is a true TEOTWAWKI situation, you might want to take steps to add decades to the life of your septic tank. Actually, in such a case, you may want an outhouse that is way way away from your home and a septic tank right at your home. Here is why. In many countries, like Mexico for instance, it is common for a septic tank to go decades without being pumped out. The biggest difference I can see is they don’t pump much gray water into their septic tanks and they don’t throw ANY toilet paper into their septic tanks!! It all goes into a trash can (with a lid) and is dumped separately. (It took me some getting used to when I moved to the Texas-Mexico border area. Even on the U.S. side, where things work, every public bathroom, like at a Walmart for instance, has a small trash can right by the toilet.) It seemingly makes all the difference in the world. Since we are assuming by definition (TEOTWAWKI) that in a situation where there may not be anyone coming around with a pump truck for a decade or two or more, you need to know how to extend the life of that septic tank right from day one of the breakdown of society. My thought would be to have a trash can by each toilet, thus taking things easy on your septic system. After all, you don’t want to be the one trying to empty that thing (septic tank) out with a 5-gallon bucket. Better to take care of it. So? Why the outhouse? Well, no one will be picking up trash either, at least at first. So, have an outhouse away from the main house. Once or twice a day you collect the TP from the buckets and wander down to the outhouse. Since most of your waste, other than toilet paper, will be going in the septic system, I suspect your outhouse will last a good long while before you will have to dig a new hole. This will give you a post-apocalyptic best of both worlds– a flush toilet in the house and yet a way to deal with wastes without having to sit in an outhouse when its 100 degrees OR when its 0 degrees. Yet everything works and everything lasts. – WRC

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In a couple septic-related posts there has been the mention of “bucketing out” the septic tank by yourself. I was wondering what would be the best way to get rid of that waist after the pumps trucks don’t run any more? Thanks, – E.M

Hugh Replies: Without a giant vacuum truck, there is only one way to remove the sludge from the tank. The black water is easy, as you can simply tie a rope onto a bucket handle and dip the water out, one bucket at a time. Most septic tanks, for the average home, have a 1500 gallon capacity. The average bucket full that can be easily lifted is about two to three gallons. It’s going to take a while, and you have to have someplace to put it when you pull it out. You may be able to use it as fertilizer in areas that do not contain human food or animals that will become human food. There is much written about this in the pages of SurvivalBlog, and I recommend you read them thoroughly. However, removal of the sludge at the bottom is what the process is all about. When you reach the sludge level, you have to start filling the bucket with the sludge. If it is soft enough, you may be able to simply drag the bucket to get it. Obviously, a square-shaped bucket has an advantage there. Worst case, someone has to crawl down into the tank and shovel it into a bucket for someone else to haul up. If that sounds like a distasteful job, you would be right, but it is done all over the world. A Google search will reveal the process in third world countries, where they live without the infrastructure that we have. It’s a nasty job, and I hope I never have to do it; however, in TEOTWAWKI, it may be the only way to keep the convenience of your septic running.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Some food for thought: The Once & Future Christendom

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Many people are scratching their heads over President Obama’s insistence that we use the United Nations term of ISIL for the Islamic State of evil thugs and murderers. ISIL purportedly stands loosely for the Islamic State In Iraq and the Levant, with the Levant being a neo-colonial term originating with Britain and France several hundred years ago, when they divided up the Middle East, based on profits from exploitation. According to Wikipedia, the term Levant is only occasionally employed to refer to modern events, peoples, states, or parts of states in the same region, namely Cyprus, Israel, Palestine, Jordan, Lebanon, and Syria. This puts Israel in the list of regions and countries that BHO indirectly legitimizes as the goal and the targets of the IS. This is just one more kick under the bus for Israel from our Muslim-Lover-In-Chief. Contacting our congressional reps is worth the effort to revert to ISIS as we watch the REAL Junior Varsity squad in the White House try to tackle this very real threat with ineffective air strikes, threating letters and emails, unfriending them on Facebook, and trying to look really, really mad when the cameras are pointing their way. Yep; that’s a sure-fire strategy for victory, if ever there was one.

Even Newsweek is scratching it’s head in this article. Left-leaning Vox also wonders why the Obama JV team is using ISIL. Finally, Glenn Beck nails exactly what BHO’s use of ISIL means and why it is important. PLEASE EVERYONE-Vote THIS November and the next and the next. – RAZ

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Medieval Weapon Finds Modern Appeal. – G.G.

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Lockdown Begins in Sierra Leone to Battle Ebola. – P.S.

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Stewart Rhodes: #sheepdog vs #sheepdog Speech at the Lamp of Liberty National Press Club. – G.P.