“Temper us in fire, and we grow stronger. When we suffer, we survive.” ? Cassandra Clare, City of Heavenly Fire
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Notes for Monday – November 17, 2014
SurvivalBlog reader PAF informs us that Tractor Supply failed to properly market Wise Food 60-count entree buckets back in January. Check your local store, as he picked up two buckets for only $29.99 each. They were stocked amongst the livestock feed buckets.
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Guest Post: Finding Employment In The Redoubt, by S.M.
This article is intended to help provide information on finding employment in the American Redoubt states. I have attempted to gather as much information as possible and group it together by categories. I have provided many links to human resources websites and state job service sites. Once at that link, the rest is up to you.
WYOMING
This is the State of Wyoming’s job service. You can look up jobs by the area, zip code, type of employment, or even the whole state. Some of the jobs listed will have the information on how to apply. Other listings will refer you to contact a local Wyoming at Work service center. There is a list of centers with telephone numbers on the site.
Local Newspapers
Many of the following newspapers have jobs that are not listed on job boards:
- Cody Enterprise
- Casper Tribune
- Northern Wyoming Daily News(Big Horn Basin-Worland, Thermopolis, Basin, Greybull, Lovell, Powell, Cody, Ten Sleep)
- Pinedale Online
Large Companies
Typically, these companies do not post on job boards or in newspapers. They have their own human resources websites. [Editor’s Note: Also, many cities across the entire nation have a website for their Chamber of Commerce that often lists their city’s (or community’s) largest employers, and sometimes this list includes these employers’ website addresses, where job postings may be listed.]
Oil/Gas Industry
- Baker Hughes
- Halliburton
- Schlumberger
- Weatherford
- Shell
- Exxon
- Marathon
- Chesapeake
- BP
- Conoco
- Sinclair
- Questar
- Airgas
- Norco
- Devon
- Nalco
- Champion Tech
- Anadarko
- MDU Resources
- Cyclone Drilling
Railroads
Mines
Utilities
- Black Hills Corp
- Rocky Mountain Power
- High Plains Power
- State of Wyoming – This site covers employment with the State of Wyoming
- Wyoming Department of Education – This site has links to all of Wyoming’s School Districts.
Cities/Counties
- City of Casper
- City of Cheyenne
- City of Rock Springs
- City of Gillette
- City of Riverton
- City of Laramie
- Campbell County
- Natrona County
- Fremont County
- Sweetwater County
- Laramie County
- Albany County
Other Large Employers
IDAHO
- Idaho Dept. of Labor – This is Idaho’s job service. Employers from around the state post job openings on this site.
Local Newspapers
Railroads
Utilities
Agriculture
Mines
Forestry
Other Large Employers
- Albertsons
- Micron Technologies
- Kootenai Health
- Boise State University
- Idaho State University
- State of Idaho Jobs
- Idaho Dept. of Education
Cities/Counties
- Boise
- Nampa
- Lewiston
- Idaho Falls
- Pocatello
- Twin Falls
- Moscow
- Ada County
- Bonner County
- Twin Falls County
- Bannock County
- Nez Perce County
- Latah County
MONTANA
- Montana Dept. of Labor – This is Montana’s job service. Employers from around the state post job openings on this site.
Local Newspapers
Railroads
Utilities
Mines
Agriculture
Oil/Gas Industry
- Baker Hughes
- Halliburton
- Schlumberger
- Weatherford
- Shell
- Exxon
- Marathon
- Conoco
- Airgas
- Norco
- Devon
- Nalco
- Champion Tech
- Anadarko
- MDU Resources
- Nabors
Forestry
Other Large Employers
- Albertsons
- Billings Clinic
- St. Vincent
- Blue Cross/Blue Shield MT
- Montana State University
- University of Montana
- State of Montana Jobs
- Montana Dept. of Education
Cities/Counties
- Billings
- Missoula
- Great Falls
- Butte
- Miles City
- Bozeman
- Kalispell
- Whitefish
- Sidney
- Helena
- Yellowstone County
- Flathead County County
Summary
I realize I could not include all businesses or agencies, or my post would be miles long. I tried to gather the larger employers in their respective areas. Most of the government agencies require you to complete applications online. Many large companies also request you do this as well. However, it is in your best interest to stay in contact with each organization. This is especially true in the oil/gas industry. Your application will most likely have to be submitted online, but it is then forwarded on to hiring managers and/or the manager for the department hiring. It would be beneficial to find out who these individuals are and to stay in contact with them. Many of these organizations/hiring managers see hundreds to thousands of applications at a time. When they choose those to interview up to offering a position, they like to put a face to the name.
There is a lot of work in North Dakota as well. However, the cost of living and living arrangements can negate any benefits to working there. There are many positions open throughout the Redoubt. If you want to work, you will find work. I have heard other business leaders and managers complain about finding good help, since most of the good help went to work in the oil/gas fields. All I ask is that if you do relocate to the Redoubt, please do not try to change things here. I hope this information is helpful. Good luck in your journey.
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Scot’s Product Review: S&K Scope Mounts, LLC
I have been growing more and more fascinated with older military rifles. You can often find them at good prices, and they are legal even in some restrictive locales. Most of them are bolt actions, and some of them are better made than most current production rifles. It is tough to beat a Mauser 98 or Springfield, and the Enfield is no slouch either. The venerable Mosin Nagant is certainly capable, and the M1 Garand is one of my all-time favorite rifles. They almost always come in cartridges that are excellent for hunting medium game in the U.S. or for self-defense. Some of them are getting harder to get cheap ammunition for, though. Most of them, however, don’t come with good sights, and they are often zeroed at ranges that make little sense for hunters or self-defense shooters.
Fixing the sight issue can be difficult. While the Enfield and Garand come with excellent aperture sights, most of the rest have rather poor open sights. The logical solution is a scope, but how, pray, do we mount one on most of these rifles? Unlike modern rifles, they generally are not drilled and tapped for scope bases. There are mounts on the market that can be fitted by a gunsmith with a milling machine and drill press, but suppose we want to be able to do it ourselves or we don’t want to make huge alterations to the original rifle? That’s where S&K Scope Mounts come in.
S&K is a U.S. company, based in Pennsylvania, that machines their mounts from virgin metals. The company was founded in 1964 and makes a wide range of mounts and scope rings for both modern sporting rifles as well as military rifles, but it is their line of mounts for ex-military rifles that we are interested in.
One of the things that surprised me is how many different types of rifles they make them for. I expected them for the Mosin Nagant and Mauser and wasn’t surprised to see the ones for the Enfield or Garand, but they also have mounts for the Schmidt-Rubin, Steyr, Arisaka, and Hakim rifles, as well as a wide variety of Mauser variants, from the Model 1895 through many versions of the Model 98 pattern. There are even mounts for the French Mas 36 and 49, M14, FN 1949, SKS, and several others. You have to go to their site to see them all.
They offer two types of mounts, none of which require the services of a gunsmith. The first mounts the scope over the receiver in the conventional location, while the second type mounts it forward in the Scout rifle position using a long eye relief scope. That’s the type I am reviewing here.
On many of the Scout mounts, you get a choice of included S&K rings or a rail that accepts Weaver scope rings, which are not included . I wound up with one of each type. S&K provided a sample of the rail mount for the Mosin Nagant 91/30, and then I managed to acquire a Mexican Mauser that already had one on it with the S&K rings.
The two types of rings are not interchangeable. Weaver rings may offer some extra versatility, in that you can get extension rings that might allow you more flexibility in mounting a scope. There are also quick detachable rings that will go on Weaver-style mounts. That said, the S&K rings are steel and rugged, and they look better to my eyes. They also allow some windage adjustment, which might come in handy if there are any alignment issues. The mounts using the S&K rings cost a bit more, but since they includes the rings, are probably a bit cheaper overall and you won’t have to remember to buy rings.
While the strategy for attaching the Scout mount varies some from rifle to rifle, you will be removing the rear sight and installing the mount on the base that held the rear sight. I was initially a bit depressed about losing the rear sight, but considering how bad most of the sights on military rifles are, I decided that it is a bearable price for the advantage of getting optics. Thankfully, optics these days are more reliable than they were in my youth, but they can still get smashed in an accident. The biggest problem, should that happen, is that the rear sights usually require tools to reinstall, so it isn’t something you can quickly do in the field in an emergency, assuming you have the parts and tools with you. It is a question to consider, but the payoff of an optical sight is pretty huge, so I’m in favor of it.
You have a couple of alternatives in what sort of optic to use. Red dot sights are very popular and work extremely well for close ranges. I’m not sure they are the best choice for most of the older military rifles, though. With the full power cartridges from the olden days, you have a lot more reach than you get with the intermediate rounds found in an AR or AK. The extra reach of the stronger cartridges merits magnification in my mind, so I prefer a scope on this type of rifle.
With the forward Scout mount, a scope will need to have nine or ten inches of eye relief. Scopes in this position were named Scout scopes by Lt. Col. Jeff Cooper– the noted writer, instructor, and scholar of shooting. He touted this mounting system, believing that placing the scope farther from the eye allows the shooter to keep both eyes open and be far more aware of surroundings than if the scope is placed close to the eye in a conventional mount. Cooper suggested that the scope should be of two to three magnification and no more, lest the shooter have to close one eye and lose the advantages of seeing with both.
There are handling advantages to placing the scope forward as well as the visual ones. Most older military rifles have fixed magazines that are loaded through the top, and it is far easier to fill them with the scope out of the way ahead of the receiver. It also allows you to use stripper clips to rapidly charge the magazine.
Left-handers also have reason to appreciate the Scout system, as it makes it far easier to reach over the rifle with the firing hand to run the bolt. It is even easier with an old-fashioned military straight bolt for lefties, as they stick out for easy grasping. Righties usually prefer a turned down bolt close to the trigger finger, such as the one found on the Enfield No. 4 for fast operation.
I have always wondered if Colonel Cooper was familiar with the German Zielfernrohr 41 of WWII, which was a low power forward mounted scope. It had only 1.5 magnification and was considered a sharpshooter scope rather than a sniper’s optic. Today, we might call it a designated marksman’s scope, but the basic idea was to give it to the best shot in a squad. It didn’t have the magnification a sniper needs to hit at several hundred yards. I have never had the chance to examine one, but I wonder if it would fit the Colonel’s criterion for a Scout scope. I have read critiques that said it was poor in low light and had a limited field of view, both points I suspect the Colonel would have criticized.
Personally, I really like Scout scopes but admit that I shoot tighter groups with a more powerful scope. Tight groups are satisfying, but the needs for field accuracy are not the same as what we expect to get from the bench. Very few of us can match bench accuracy from any position used in hunting or self-defense, and thankfully we don’t need to. Higher magnification scopes can actually make it harder to shoot, since they enhance wobble as well as detail.
The mount on the Mauser I bought was already installed, but I wound up having to work on it. Whoever did the job hadn’t properly seated the rear scope base. While I was at it I wanted to see how it was secured to the rifle, so I pulled the whole thing apart for study. What I found was an aluminum base that is sturdily secured to the rear sight base. When you pull off the rear sight by driving out the pin that holds it to the rifle, you find a leaf spring that slides out. This leaves space to slip in a nut, machined to take the spring’s place. The scope base is machined to mate to the base, and it secured to it with three screws; two go into the hole left by the pin that held on the rear sight, and the third goes into the nut that replaced the left spring. There is also an adjustment screw. By tweaking the screws, you can make some elevation adjustments, if needed. All of the parts were well made and finished in matte black.
The Mosin Nagant mount was quite similar to install, but there was an additional screw to snug the mount up through the top and to help with adjustments for elevation. This mount is also aluminum.
One difference I noticed between the two rifles and mounts is that you can see the front sight over the Weaver rail on the Mosin Nagant, which made me think about the possibility of adding some sort of rear sight to the rail for emergency use. If you used quick detachable rings, you could easily pop the scope off in an emergency and go back to iron sights. The S&K rings mount for the Mauser was too high and blocked the front sight. The Mauser actually has a higher front sight than the Mosin Nagant, but the mount using the S&K rings needs more depth to seat the rings, so I think the one with the Weaver rings offers some interesting possibilities that would be worth exploring.
I want to mention that a Weaver rail will probably not work with Picatinny equipment. Weaver stuff will work on Picatinny, but Picatinny uses a slightly larger cross bolt than Weaver, so you usually can’t reverse them.
If you have a military rifle and want to mount an optic, S&K mounts are worth a good look. The Mosin Nagant mount I reviewed is $72.00, and the Mauser one is $82.00.
All American Sun Oven Update
I am continuing to really like the Sun Oven. The ability to precisely orient it to the sun, using the aiming device and adjustable leg, really helps maximize cooking temperatures, while the tightly sealing door traps heat efficiently. I am also still impressed by the leveling tray that keeps food from spilling as you tilt the oven towards the sun. This reminds me that it is time to make solar brownies again. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie
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Recipe of the Week: Easy Southwest Dump Soup, by M.
When my family of farm hands come in from a day of work, they like this hardy soup served with (or over) tortilla chips, cornbread, or even warmed-over biscuits. I usually serve it with a big, green salad or with some steamed broccoli. I like it for three reasons– it’s tasty, easy, and economical, in that it helps stretch my costly ground beef! I can start it after lunch in the crock pot and go about my business for a couple of hours in the afternoon. (NOTE: For a large group, Costco sells the BIG cans of Ranch-style beans, so the other ingredients can be increased proportionately to create an easy, inexpensive way to feed a big crew!)
Ingredients:
- 2 cans Ranch-style beans (regular sized)
- 1 lb. ground beef, pre-cooked
- 2 cans corn, undrained
- 2 cans Rotel tomatoes, undrained
- 1 lb. Velveeta cheese, cut into cubes
- 1/2 cup beef broth or water, if cooking in crocket pot
Directions:
Pour ingredients into pan or crock pot, in order listed. Heat the ingredients together, stirring occasionally, until the cheese melts. Serve with tortilla chips or cornbread. Serves 4-6.
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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!
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Letter Re: Preparing Game Meat For The Table
Greetings, I read this article with interest and found it full of good information. However, there are a couple of points that I was concerned with and feel compelled to share my opinion as well.
I am concerned by the statement that game meat fat should be removed and is “nasty”. I feed my family strictly subsistence caught meat and fish. Yes, a bear eating salmon will smell of salmon; however, a bear eating berries will have delicious meat. The vast majority of the time, the fat on moose, caribou, bear, muskox, deer, goat, and other animals is not “nasty”. When we are lucky enough to shoot a fat animal, we are happy to add this to our ground burger (instead of purchasing ground pork, as he suggests). I often render the fat as well, for use in various cooking projects or saving for the future to add to lean ground meat. This is important for people to note. Many people want a low-fat diet today, but in a survival situation fat is an important nutritional component and should not be discarded.
Smaller game varies in its fat content. Rabbits and many birds do not have much fat. However, beaver and porcupine can have a lot of fat. With waterfowl, I would say, it depends on the season. Geese prepared to fly south for the winter are very fat; however when they return in the spring, they are very lean. (I live in Alaska, and there is a spring subsistence hunt for rural residents, allowing the legal harvest of waterfowl.)
Along the same line, he recommends discarding the bones. Whoa! Bones are a tremendous source of nutrients. I can not imagine throwing them out. They can be cooked and made into a broth for use in other cooking, and this broth is especially important for nutritional benefit should you have someone unable to eat solid food. The bones can be left in cuts of meat and used to season the meat while cooking and adding fat, which is full of rich flavors and keeps the cut moist as it cooks.
The simple rule I use for meat that I harvest is to keep it clean, cool, and dry. I can’t emphasis this enough! Do not use blow torches to get off hair and no dumping ice into the chest cavity. The ice introduces water, which quickly accelerates the rotting of the meat. If it’s hot, wet, or there is insect activity, process that meat as fast as possible. There is no need to leave it hanging.
Thanks for the article. It has lots of useful information and details for those who need to know how to process meat.
– Countrygirl
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Economics and Investing:
Report: 25 Percent Of Connecticut Households Above Federal Poverty Level But Struggle To Meet Basic Needs. – G.G. (Free registration required to read the article. Don’t violate OPSEC.)
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Nearly half of Florida households are struggling financially, United Way reports. – G.G.
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Turkey production down, wholesale prices up . – M.M.
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Borrowers, Beware: The Robo-signers Aren’t Finished Yet. – G.G.
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Odds ‘n Sods:
70 years ago, the Minnesota Starvation Experiment changed lives . – K.C.
It’s an interesting read and something to consider in a societal breakdown.
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Is Mexico becoming a failed state?. – G.P.
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Cops cuff, detain man for having legal guns. – B.B.
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Police will start carrying firearms with smart tracking technology. – D.S.
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Not really survival related, but it’s pretty amazing to watch: Treacherous Rotary Naval Aircraft Operation. – RBS
Hugh’s Quote of the Day:
“The wave of the future is not the conquest of the world by a single dogmatic creed but the liberation of the diverse energies of free nations and free men.” – John F. Kennedy
Notes for Sunday – November 16, 2014
November 16th is the birthday of Michael D. Echanis (born 1950, died September 1978), a former United States Army Special Forces and 75th Ranger Battalion enlisted man. He was awarded the Purple Heart and Bronze Star with “V” device as a LRRP in the Vietnam War. He was born and raised in eastern Oregon. Echanis was killed while working for the CIA in Nicaragua in 1978 in a plane crash along with his colleague Charles Sanders and members of the Nicaraguan armed forces. There was conjecture that the plane was destroyed in flight by a saboteur’s bomb. JWR’s novel Survivors includes a minor character from Oregon with the surname Echanis, as a small homage to Mike Echanis.
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Today, we present another entry for Round 55 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:
First Prize:
- A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
- A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
- DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hardcase to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then 1 minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
- Gun Mag Warehouseis providing 30 DMPS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
- Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
- A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
- A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
- A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
- A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
- KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
- TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.
- Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
Second Prize:
- A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
- A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
- Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
- The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
- $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
- A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
- Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
- TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
- Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
- RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.
Third Prize:
- A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
- A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
- Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
- Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
- Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
- Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
- APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
- SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.
- Montie Gearis donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack. (a $379 value).
Round 55 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Preparing Game Meat For The Table, by Kestrel
As a hunter I’ve often heard the question, “Doesn’t ____ meat taste gamey?” I get this question from people who have never eaten game meat or from those who have eaten improperly-prepared game. The word “gamey”, to me, speaks of meat with a rotten flavor. I’ve had spoiled meat before, and it does indeed taste “gamey”. My usual response to the above question is that wild game just has a different, often stronger, flavor than the beef that we are used to in this country, but there is no reason it shouldn’t be delicious.
In this article I will give some tips to ensure that the meat from animals killed in the field, especially wild game, will taste good when it gets to the table. During hard times, or right now with hunting seasons going on and meat prices as high as they are, you might want to kill an animal to feed your kids. Small game is pretty easy and a good place to start. A few pounds of squirrels is easier to take care of than a couple hundred pounds of deer.
Gutting
After the shot, get the animal gutted as soon as possible. There are videos and books about field dressing animals, but I’ll explain the whole process here. Just search youtube, if it isn’t clear. Intestines hold a lot of bacteria, and dead animals will start to bloat immediately. The longer you let the animal sit, the more problems you will have. I’ve shot caribou and pronghorns that have gotten swollen abdomens within a few minutes of death. If you kill an animal and notice the stomach (or paunch area below the ribs) is bloating, be extra careful with the first incision. Cut from the sternum to the pelvis. If you’ve done it right, the intestines will still be contained in an internal sack. You want to cut the skin, not the intestines; if you cut the sack holding the intestines, it’s okay. However, getting half-digested food and feces on meat will ruin it (duh). Some animals dress out easier than others. Sometimes the intestines roll right out with hardly any effort at all, while sometimes they hang up in the carcass. I don’t know why. There really doesn’t seem to be any pattern to which animal will be hard or easy to gut. Take your time with the ones that don’t clean easily, because pulling on intestines will tear them and ruin meat. Also, be careful with the bladder.
Once the digestive system has been pulled out of the carcass, you must deal with the still-attached colon. Be careful here; we all know what the colon contains. There are a couple of ways to deal with this. You can cut deeply around the anus, from the outside in, being careful not to nick the colon, and pull the whole thing out through the cavity. Also, the pelvis can be split, exposing the last few inches of colon for easy removal. The method I find fastest and easiest in the field is to strip the colon by pinching it between the fingers and pushing the contents out or further into the intestines then cutting the colon and tying it off with an overhand knot to be removed during skinning.
Cleaning the Upper Carcass
Now you can clean out the upper part of the carcass, including the lungs, heart, liver, and esophagus/trachea. The ribs can be split up the sternum for easy access. I don’t usually do this, nor do I like to split the pelvis. It is much easier to keep debris off of the meat while I’m getting it out of the field with the carcass as closed up as possible. You’ve probably shot the animal through the heart/lungs area, since it is the biggest vital target, so this part of the animal will be a little messy. Just cut the diaphragm, reach up into the rib cage with your knife in hand, and cut the trachea as high up as you can. The heart and lungs will come out now. The heart can be eaten; put it in a bag.
The Liver
I’ve saved the liver for last. It probably came out with the intestines, and that is okay. If you cut the liver while removing it, you probably have a carcass full of blood. That’s okay, too. (I never understood how five pounds of liver could hold four gallons of blood.) I would recommend leaving the liver in the field. Some state game agencies recommend this, too, because livers can contain a lot of toxic stuff. The liver holds dangerous elements, like arsenic and cadmium, that are filtered out of the body. If you like liver, stick to beef liver.
Cleaning and Cooling Down
Now that the animal is “field dressed”, get it cleaned out and cooled down. If you are hunting on the back forty, like most deer hunters east of the big rivers, this means bringing the deer back to the house or barn and hanging it to cool. I always wash the carcass out with cold water. In early fall this can be done with the garden hose; during winter a few five-gallon buckets of water will do. It is easier to do if the animal is laying in the bed of a truck or trailer. Just pour water into the carcass and tip it up so everything can drain out.
As for cooling, this is a little tricky. I hang the animal head down. If the weather is warm, I will pour a bag of ice into the carcass. If it is warm (during the hunting season this means in the 50’s-low 60’s) but a frost has killed off the flies, I will skin the animal immediately and be sure that it is hung in the shade where a cool breeze can get to it. Leaving the hide on will insulate the animal and keep it too warm for too long. If the flies are still around, you will need to wrap it in something to keep them off. Game bags work but so do burlap or a bed sheet. Also citric acid can be sprayed on the meat to keep off bugs. If it is below freezing, leave the hide on and skip the ice. Ideally, you want the meat refrigerated, not frozen. I remove the head and what’s left of the trachea during skinning. If you can hang the carcass in a controlled environment that will keep it at a constant cold temperature, you can hang it for two to four weeks before butchering. This will help tenderize the meat, but most of us don’t have a walk-in refrigerator in which to hang a deer. In warm weather, the animal can be butchered after rigor mortis has passed, which should be a few hours. Be aware that if the temperatures are in the 50’s during the day, they will probably be in the 30’s during the night, so leaving meat to hang at least overnight is probably a good idea. In cold weather, I’ll let it hang for two to five days, if I can keep it from freezing. If it is going to freeze, I just go ahead and butcher.
If you kill something but can’t get it home, “quarter” the animal and hang it in game bags. Game bags are thin cloth bags, usually cotton, that allow air to cool the meat, but they keep dirt and insects off. Skin the animal and remove the front quarters, hind quarters, back straps and tenderloins, and neck meat. If you want the ribs, it is up to you; I never take the ribs. The ribs often have a bullet hole in them and bits of lung splattered around inside of them. Lungs are full of bacteria, and there isn’t much meat on a game animal’s ribs.
“
Gutless” Method of Field Removal
Here I’ll explain the “gutless” method of getting an animal out of the field. This also covers quartering. Quartering is the same, whether your animal is hanging in the barn or you have an elk down a few miles into the mountains. Skin the animal as you go, starting on either the hind or front quarters. For the front quarters, skin from the “wrist”, removing the foot at the joint. It takes a little practice, but you can slice the outer tendons of the joint, then snap it back on itself, and cut the tendons inside to remove the foot without a saw or something to chop with. Skin down the inside, past the elbow, and into the armpit area. Quartering is a two man job– one man to hold the now-skinned appendage off of the ground and one to cut. If you are alone, tie the leg to something to hold it off of the ground. The front shoulders float and are easily cut off. The hind quarters are similar to the front but are heavier and attached to the pelvis via a ball joint. Find the joint and slice the tendons. The rear quarters can then be removed. The backstraps run from the shoulder to the hips on each side of the spine. Skin back to the spine, then slice down between the spinal process and the meat, then between the top of the ribs and the meat. Keep cutting until the backstrap is free. The neck meat can be removed from either side of the spine by skinning the neck and simply slicing it free. The last cut to remove is the tender loin. The tender loins lay inside the carcass along the back between the pelvis and ribs and can be removed once the backstraps are off. Now your meat is removed; you have a pile of bones and guts, which you never had to touch, left for the coyotes.
Improving Meat Quality
Now, we have the meat out of the field. It is cool, clean, and ready to be cut into steaks. Here are some tricks to improve the quality of what you eat:
- REMOVE THE BONES. Always take the bones out of game meat. The bones add a stronger flavor to the meat; I think it is something in the marrow. It only takes a few minutes to do this, yet it will make a big improvement in flavor.
- GET THE MEAT COOLED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. I can’t stress this enough. Don’t drive around the county showing all of your buddies the giant deer you killed. They will have plenty of time to be jealous when they see the antlers hanging on your wall.
- Remove the fat. Big game’s fat is nasty. Generally the fat on game animals is contained outside and around the meat, rather than marbled throughout. Animals store fat for winter, and it is easily removed so take it off. When cooked it turns into a smelly, yellow jelly. I shot a bear once that had been feeding on salmon, fattening up for the winter. I could hardly stand the smell of rotten fish coming off of his fat, as I skinned him. I thought the meat would be inedible. I cut the fat off and cooked up a piece just to make sure. That bear was some good eating; all of the fishy smell was contained in the fat. The bear meat was fine.
- Always cut into the skin with your knife’s spine against the meat and the edge facing out. Get under the skin and push your knife away from you. If you slice down through the skin, you will cut the animal’s hair and it will get all over everything.
- Wear rubber gloves. If your hands are like mine, they always have scratches and abrasions on them. Mixing an animals blood with yours is a recipe for an infection. After cleaning the animal clean your hands. I always have a bottle of isopropyl alcohol in the vehicle when hunting. After washing off the blood, I wipe down my hands and arms with the alcohol.
- It is inevitable that some hair will get on the meat, but get it off. Animals don’t bathe. Furthermore, wild animals have scent glands in different areas of the body, usually in the head and hind legs. Those scent chemicals get on the hair. Also, males especially will wallow in mud that is soaked with their own urine, or they will urinate on themselves during the breeding season. You don’t want any of that on the meat. Try to keep hair off of the meat and use a towel soaked in vinegar to remove any that you miss. Don’t be afraid to wash meat with cold water. You don’t want to use vinegar? Then, hit the outside quickly with a torch to burn off the hair.
- Don’t let meat soak in its own blood. If you have to put meat in a cooler, make sure it will drain, and then change the ice as often as necessary.
- Some game meat gets gross after the animal starts rutting. Caribou comes to mind. Male animals will stop eating or eat much less during their breeding period. When this happens, the animal will begin to “burn fat”; that’s right, they burn that nasty fat I talked about a few bullet points back. It can effect the taste of meat. In caribou it really effects the meat, as in even your dog wouldn’t eat the tenderloins of a rutting caribou.
- Remove the silver skin from the meat. Silver skin or sinew is the connective ligament that surrounds and attaches muscle to bone. This is tough stuff and is sometimes difficult to remove. You probably won’t be able to remove all of it, but cutting it from the outside of the meat will make it more tender.
- For steaks, shoot a young animal. Old animals will be tougher and stronger tasting. If tender, tasty, steaks are what you are after, then shoot a fawn or calf. Does this offend your sensibilities? It shouldn’t. It’s a Disney view of animals that has caused you to be upset. From a scientific standpoint, the yearlings are the most expendable animals in the heard, with the exception of the rare barren doe/cow. A seven or eight month old whitetail deer or elk is as good as any veal. When we have an old animal down, we often cut the tenderloins and backstraps into steaks, cut out a couple of roasts, and then grind the rest up for burger and sausage.
- Speaking of burger and sausage, you will want to cut in 10-15% with pork or beef suet or bacon, if you can find it cheap. Game burger is too lean and won’t hold together without adding to it.
- If you take the animal to a butcher, keep your meat separate from everyone else’s. Talk to someone who butchers deer about how hunters treat the chore of field dressing. You will hear about the guys who cut the intestines getting feces on the meat, guys who have gut shot the animal and gotten bacteria-laden stomach contents all over the insides, meat that has been left in the heat too long, and other things that will turn your stomach. Most butchers will weigh the trim from your animal and then throw it in the grinder with everyone else’s trim to make burger and sausage. Now the meat that you have taken good care of is mixed with the stuff that sat in the sun too long. Offer to pay extra, if you have to, in order to have your game processed separately.
- Learn to butcher the animal yourself, while the world is still functioning. If you want to butcher the animal yourself, it isn’t rocket science. It is hard work and is much more manageable if you have help. Three people are just about perfect for cutting up big game. Two guys cut; one guy wraps. Most kitchens aren’t set up for butchering. Setting up a couple of folding tables is usually better.
- Remove bloodshot meat. Bloodshot meat is meat damaged by the bullet. It will be bruised, often with coagulated blood, in the area of the shot. Just cut it out.
- If you’ve gut shot the animal, all is not lost. The gutless method of cleaning the animal shines here. You may still lose some meat but not as much as if you field dress the animal. Any meat that has been tainted by stomach contents must be cut out. If you have to field dress your kill, well, that stinks. A fresh kill isn’t bad, but any animal that has laid for a couple of hours is going to be tough. I’ve done it; the only advice I have is to breath through your mouth and try not to puke.
- If an animal is sick, don’t eat it. Some animals are rotten when you shoot them. I’ve seen animals with infected injuries and tumors that have made the meat inedible. Usually these injuries only affect a small part of the animal. You might loose a quarter or some shank meat but nothing serious. Several diseases kill wild animals, and in every case game departments recommend not eating the meat of a sick animal. If you kill a sick animal, don’t eat the meat. Instead, call the conservation officer for your area; they may be able to issue a new tag.
- If the meat smells bad, dump it. If you have a piece of questionable meat, the “sniff test” will usually tell you if it is good.
- Animals carry parasites, so cook all meat thoroughly. I know I didn’t have to put this in, but you know full disclosure and all that.
- Small game and birds taken with a shotgun will have shot in them. Sometimes you can pick it out but will probably miss some. That’s part of eating wild birds. Just don’t bite down and chip a tooth on a piece of chilled shot. If an animal is “shot up”, try cutting off the good meat and making a casserole with it.
- Speaking of game birds, plucking is better than skinning. It also takes longer. A plucked bird will not dry out in the oven as quickly as a skinned one.
- On the other end of the spectrum, wild fowl (geese especially) are not as fatty as their tame cousins. If you’ve cooked a farm-raised goose, you probably thought it was greasy. That isn’t true of wild geese, at least not the Canadian variety. Wild water fowl will have a thin layer of fat around it. However, when cooked, this will make the meat moist and full of flavor. A bird’s fat isn’t the same as the fat of big game, which, as noted earlier, is nasty.
- If you do skin birds, cook them in an oven bag. This will help keep the meat moist. Even doing this you may have dry thigh meat in large birds. It’s not a problem though, because the left over and dry meat of geese and turkeys is perfect for soup.
- Hanging small game and birds to age isn’t necessary. Though, in Scotland, “High Scottish Grouse” is considered a delicacy, where a grouse is hung on the porch until the meat is literally rotting off the bone before preparing. If you are fond of Scottish cuisine, go for it. Otherwise, don’t age small game meat.
With a few extra minutes of preparation and a little extra care, you can be eating some of the healthiest meat available, and it will taste good, too. Does venison taste “gamey”? Nope, not even a little. Properly-prepared venison can be thrown on a grill and cooked just like a New York strip. The flavor will not be the same as beef, anymore than the flavor of lamb will be the same as beef. Embrace the difference, and enjoy the meal.
Best regards.
Letter Re: Surviving Financial SHTF and Becoming Debt Free, by K.D.
HJL,
KDs advice on getting out of debt and getting spending under control is spot on, but I am curious what KD and the SurvivalBlog editor recommend for retirement savings. Obviously silver and gold are vital components of any investment portfolio, as a hedge against the failure of currency, but these investments do not pay dividends and cannot be relied upon as a complete retirement plan.
When investing for the auction price of a stock, as the mainstream foolishly recommends, I agree with SurvivalBlog that the stock market can be a dangerous store of wealth. However, if you approach investing with the same mindset as you would if purchasing a corner 7/11 store, you cannot lose, short of a complete currency collapse.
KD mentioned pulling his/her money out of the stock market before the 2008 crash as being a good move. I have heard similar statements from many of my fellow preppers. Let’s consider what would have happened if KD had owned stock in Coca-Cola (KO) prior to 2008. Coca-Cola is a strong company with a wide moat brand, which has increased its dividend every year for over 50 years. When the 2008 crash happened, the auction price of Coca-Cola’s stock dropped considerably, but holders of the stock continued to earn the same increasing amount of money in dividends as before the stock crashed. This is because no one in America has ever turned on the news and said “Aaaah! The stock market’s crashing! I’ve got to immediately stop using my food stamps to buy soda, junk food, and other stuff I don’t need!” A wise person could then use the stock market dip to purchase more shares of KO at the sale price and earn even more of the awesome dividend. A patient person, holding their investment, would have then regained all of the investment’s value a few years later.
When you invest in dividend growth stocks, all anxiety relating to a stock market crash or closure ceases to exist. In fact, you pray for a stock market collapse so you can load up on cheap shares of awesome dividend growth stocks. Fairly valued (P/E < 20), quality companies with strong histories of growing dividends, good growth, and solid brands can be used to grow wealth to the point that a person can retire early.
The only way the dividend growth investor loses money is if Americans suddenly stop buying cigarettes, cheeseburgers, and gasoline, in which case life would probably be so horrible that the investor would be less concerned about their hoard of wealth and more concerned about procuring weapons and ammunition to fight off mauraders. I am not suggesting that people shouldn’t prepare for emergencies, or even full-scale civilization collapse. What I am saying is that people have been predicting the end of time since the beginning of time and that the world as we know it may very well not end within our lifetime. It would be foolish to put all of our wealth into disaster preps, only to reach retirement age and have no U.S. currency available to purchase necessary goods and services in this fiat-based economy. Preppers work so hard to prepare for hard times, why is it that we reject the idea of preparing for the contingency of good times?
Not so long ago in history, average people did not have access to the tools needed to retire and instead worked until they died. I encourage everyone to work as hard as they can to grow their wealth and intelligently use available methods to retire as early as possible, so they may maximize their enjoyment of this short and precious life. – D.R.
Economics and Investing:
Weather, tight supplies drive U.S. cattle prices to new high
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Winging it through retirement: 30 percent of Americans have no retirement savings.
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The politics of housing: Why are many blue cities unaffordable to the middle class?
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Items from Mr. Econocobas:
24% Of Millennials “Expect” Student Loan Forgiveness – As someone with student loans, I understand the frustration of an highly overpriced “asset”, but this is insanity to even think this.
Video: David Stockman Interview On Bloomberg TV: Congress Is In A Fiscal Coma—Do Not Disturb!
Odds ‘n Sods:
A Recent Podcast: Survivalism As a Financial Plan: the Tactics for “Surviving the End of the World as We Know It” Applied to Modern Life – Interview with James Wesley, Rawles
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Swiss Democracy: They listen to their people! What’s the matter with our country?? – Avalanche Lily
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Krayton Kerns: God, Guns and Guts – Avalanche Lily
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Hugh’s Quote of the Day:
“Then Herod, when he saw that he was mocked of the wise men, was exceeding wroth, and sent forth, and slew all the children that were in Bethlehem, and in all the coasts thereof, from two years old and under, according to the time which he had diligently enquired of the wise men. Then was fulfilled that which was spoken by Jeremy the prophet, saying, In Rama was there a voice heard, lamentation, and weeping, and great mourning, Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be comforted, because they are not.” Matthew 2:16-18 (KJV)