Odds ‘n Sods:

Privacy will not exist in 10 years, Pew survey of tech experts says. One will need to make concerted effort to not be tracked, such as driving an older vehicle with no GPS in it, using an OLD flip phone, or removing a modern phone battery except when using it, using CASH to purchase things, live off the grid as much as possible, et cetera. Still, with National ID coming, there is no place to really go in the USA. – H.L.

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A follow on to Monday’s post about a Sheriff’s Deputy in Washington stating that their new MRAP was for “constitutionalists”. Video: Americans Stand Up To Militarized Takeover. – K.

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An editor from The Economist magazine discovered SurvivalBlog and read one of my novels. He then did his newbie best to describe them, albeit with his statist British tongue thrust firmly into his cheek.

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A .308 Pistol? Somehow I find their utility dubious. For the sake of compactness when traveling in a car I might consider owning one of .223 (HK93) pistol variants from the same company, with a Century arm brace. (But even that would have tremendous muzzle flash and muzzle blast.) – JWR

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US Families Prepare For ‘Modern Day Apocalypse’. – G.G.





Notes for Monday – December 22, 2014

December 23, 2014 is the 101st anniversary of the exclusive private banking cartel known as The Federal Reserve. America and the U.S. Dollar won’t survive another century under those banksters.



Guest Article: Pepper Spray Decontamination and Medical Treatment, by D.F.

Pepper spray, also known as OC spray (from “Oleoresin Capsicum”), OC gas, and capsicum spray, is a lachrymatory agent (a chemical compound that irritates the eyes to cause tears, pain, and even temporary blindness), and it is used in riot control, crowd control, and personal self-defense, including defense against dogs and bears. Its inflammatory effects cause the eyes to close, taking away vision. This temporary blindness allows officers to more easily restrain subjects and permits persons using pepper spray for self-defense an opportunity to escape. (The following is the regimen I use for decon after field training in the agencies I work with.) First, the patient is warned to not rub their eyes, since this increases burn and exposure to active oils in the spray. The eyes and face are then rinsed with a 50% to 50% ratio of cool water and Maalox– plain, unflavored Maalox. The aluminum hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide in the Maalox immediately start to decrease pain by blocking the burning sensation; the exact mechanism is unknown but is suspected to be a chemical binding, like the antacid effect and neutralizing effect. This temporary cessation of pain allows for further treatment. Dawn dish detergent and cool water are used 50% to 50% to wash the entire outside face, until all oils from the pepper gas are removed. Then, follow-up washing with luke warm water alone is done for 10 minutes, and the eyes are individually rinsed with Bausch and Lomb or other occular wash; we use the rinse agent only and nothing containing glycerin, since this is oil-based and would cause particles of Oleoresin Capsicum to reactivate or remain fixed in the eye.

There are other treatment protocols, like MOFIBA– mineral oil followed immediately by alcohol. Firmly wipe the pepper spray off the skin using a gauze pad, clean cloth, or paper towel moistened well with mineral oil. (The oil binds to the pepper spray, making it easier to remove.) Then, immediately wipe off all the mineral oil with a fresh gauze pad or cloth moistened well with isopropyl rubbing alcohol (the kind you can buy in a drugstore). If a large area of the skin is exposed, do small sections at a time in order to get the mineral oil off as quickly as possible. Some people like to follow with a water rinse, since alcohol can irritate the skin.

I just thought everyone would like to know of a regimen that is field tested and seems to work very well. This treatment was field tested in a law enforcement agency I recently retired from. Therefore, the regimen is proven and not subject to conjecture. This information could be useful in a TEOTWAWKI situation, since criminals are fond of using pepper gas to disable their victims, and an attack with pepper agent might precede a more forceful attack. Hence, being able to quickly and effectively decontaminate could save your family’s lives.



Scot’s Product Review: Chinook Level 1 Emergency Preparedness Medical Kit (EPMK)

Chinook Medical Gear, Inc. is a Durango, Colorado-based company that provides medical gear to first responders, military, and all the rest of us. They supply pre-built first aid kits, custom kits, packs and cases, individual items, and pretty much anything else medical you might need for an emergency. I’ve written about some of the modules they sell to help you put together a kit on a step-by-step basis.

The kit I’m writing about here, the Level 1 Emergency Preparedness Medical Kit (EPMK) is a different strategy. It is a pretty complete package you can purchased in one fell swoop. It is designed to be compact, light, and able to support one or two people, whether at home or away. The kit in a yellow nylon bag costs $155.00, or is available in a yellow Pelican hard case for $175.00. You can also buy a refill for $120.00. The nylon bag kit is 11x8x5 inches and weighs about 3 pounds, 5 ounces by my measurements, which differ a little from what Chinook gives. They say the hard case is about 12x10x5 inches and weighs 4.7 pounds.

The nylon bag reminds me of Cordura, which is a very rugged and long-lived nylon fabric product. It is nicely divided into compartments with transparent covers over some that work very well at keeping the contents organized and accessible. Each of the compartments hold related items needed for treating an emergency and are indicated with color-coded labels. In normal times, yellow is a great choice for bag color, and it is well marked with crosses and a logo that spells out medical kit. I wouldn’t mind, however, being able to get it in a subdued color, like olive drab, but yellow is all that is available. What I would probably like most would be a bright slip cover over a subdued bag. I could ditch the cover, if I had to be circumspect, which could happen during any sort of disorder.

The hard case is from Pelican– a company noted for making high quality, water-tight polymer cases. There are no dividers, but everything is organized in tough Aloksaks, which are sort of like Ziploc bags on a heavy dose of steroids. They are water tight and rugged. Again, I would like a subdued color option, perhaps with a bright sleeve to keep it in during the better times.

There are four levels of EPMK’s. They range in price from $155.00 to $750.00. The primary difference is that the larger and more expensive kits have more stuff and can treat more people. They do add some additional capability, with the biggest bump at the Level 4, which adds a stethoscope, blood pressure kit, a chest and airway kit, and a dental module. The Level 2 and up kits gets you a much easier to use CPR mask rather than a face shield, a SAM splint for protecting broken limbs, an ice pack and heat pack, some eye wash and eye pads, a Water Jel burn dressing, some hand sanitizer, and acetaminophen. You also get a Ratcheting Tourniquet from Level 3 on. You continue to get the SWAT-T tourniquet at all levels. While Levels 2 and 3 include DenTemp, a material that can make temporary repairs to fillings or caps, the Dental Module in Level 4 is much more capable, adding some dental tools, hemostatic gauze, pain products, and other useful supplies.

The inventory list notes the date on which the first item in the kit expires. You could use the list to mark items as they are used to help you keep things fully stocked, which is easy to forget to do. It might also suggest things you might feel the need to add. In the kit I looked at, the first component to expire goes out of date in 2016, so everything in the kit is fresh. While most, if not all, of the stuff in the bag could be used beyond the expiration date, it is best to mind them, especially if you keep the kit in a hot car. Once things expire, use them for training and practice and replace it in the kit.

An item I really liked finding in the bag was the Pocket Naturalist Emergency First Aid Folding Pocket Guide. Pocket Naturalist has a stunning array of folding guides to most everything that is outdoors related. They are heavily laminated and sturdy. Amazon carries over 300 titles in the line, and there are even more on the publisher’s site including some useful ones for survival. There are even some on foreign languages and animal care. The individual pages are 4×8.25 inches and typically fold out to 12 pages of densely packed information. They obviously are not comprehensive on any subject, but the ones I’ve seen provide useful, basic information. You want to study them BEFORE use, but they are handy to double-check yourself in a jam. I find I may remember basics from a class, but having something to refer to as I go along is extremely helpful.

One minor quibble with the Pocket Guide is that it was stuffed in an outside pocket where it was hard to get out. I decided that if it were my kit, I would keep it in the main compartment so it would be in front of me every time I open the bag. It is easier to lose it my way but harder to overlook (unless you lose it).

A problem with many first aid kits is that they aren’t much help with a serious injury, like a gunshot wound or a chainsaw or axe injury. This kit has some serious stuff for that sort of thing and includes a SWAT-T tourniquet as well as gauze for packing a wound, a QuikClot hemostatic sponge, and a bandage to wrap it all up with. You probably won’t find any of that in the kit you get at the drug store.

Tourniquets seem to be controversial. I’ve read a number of debates and heard a slightly heated argument once over how this or that tourniquet will save your life, while some other one will cause you to become extinct. Fortunately, I have only played with them in practice and never had to use one in real life, so I can’t say for sure who is right in these arguments. I spent an hour talking to my doctor about these matters and have concluded that if you are bleeding out, any tourniquet– even your belt– is going to help.

The SWAT-T in this kit is a wide elastic band, much like the ones they use when you get stuck for a blood sample or donation. My doc thinks they should work really well, but he agrees with my concern that self-applying one will be more difficult than some of the strap types on the market. A big advantage of the SWAT-T is how little space it takes up and its cost, which is about one-third that of the strap ones. That makes them a lot easier to carry and allows you to have more of them. My end decision was to put a strap type in my “bump in the night” kit and another in my car and then start getting enough SWAT-T ones to have in all of our other kits. The thought is that if I get hurt in my car or while dealing with bumps in the night, I want to be able to self-apply. The rest of the time, I will likely be the one applying it to someone else, so the SWAT-T should work fine. The thing is to have them handy and know where they are. You don’t want to have to spend much time finding or retrieving it if someone is bleeding out.

You also get a roll of gauze to pack the wound with. Again, I’ve never done this, but the idea is that it will help stop the bleeding, particularly internal bleeding, in a deep wound, such as from a gunshot. You see videos of people cramming and shoving gauze deeply into wounds, but I would be reluctant to stuff a skull wound or to go poking into a lung. On other areas, I would go to work.

I would like to have gotten some hemostatic (an agent that causes blood to clot) gauze in the kit, but the stuff is expensive. Some argue that it really doesn’t help that much. My doctor stressed that keeping the blood inside is really critical, but he equivocated on whether the hemostatic gauze would make a difference or complicate things down the road. After listening to some of the debates, I think I would want it available if regular gauze and a tourniquet failed to stop the bleeding.

The included QuikClot hemostatic sponge has kaolin, a clay material, in it that causes blood to clot. You might be able to push the sponge into a large wound to try to seal it, but it is really intended to be placed on top of the wound. That won’t help with internal bleeding the way the gauze can. I think this would be a huge help, however, on a large gash or chain saw injury.

You also get a gauze roll intended to be a pressure bandage to hold things together. It should work just fine, but I am a fan of the Israeli Bandages, which admittedly cost twice what the Dynarex Stopper included in this kit costs. The Israelis are easier to apply, important for klutzes like me, especially under pressure, and they probably provide more pressure to stop bleeding. Some say you can get them tight enough to serve as a tourniquet, which is an added bonus. I’m sure Chinook included the Dynarex as a way to keep the kit affordable, but if I bought it, I would add an Israeli bandage when I found some funds. I wouldn’t throw out the Dynarex though. It’s better to have supplies you don’t need than to run out.

There is a lot of other stuff for wounds, blisters, and burns that range from boo boos to serious stuff. There are a couple of pouches of liquid povidone-iodine solution. This stuff is good for treating wounds to prevent infection. I had never seen it in pouches before and thought it is a great idea to package it this way. Triangular bandages are also present along with safety pins to assemble them with.

I was a bit surprised to see the benzoin swabs. Benzoin is something I only learned about a few months ago. Basically, it is a smelly liquid that, when applied to the skin, makes adhesive bandages stick better. You don’t put it on the wound itself, just around it. I really like it, particularly for bandages in awkward spots that can get wet.

The typical packets of triple anti-biotic ointment, antiseptic towelettes, and hydrocortisone cream are along for the ride as well as some packs of the very neat Burn Jel ointment. This stuff has lidocaine in it that helps kill pain in minor burns. My 10-year-old loves the way it quickly calms down burns.

The BZK antiseptic towelettes are in a foil-lined paper-like pouch and I have sometimes found similar ones to have dried up after storage in my car over time. I prefer the Mylar pouches used by Wet Ones towelettes intended for hand and face cleaning. I have found some of those that have baked for years and were still good. While the active ingredient in the two brands is the same, the Wet Ones have fragrances in them, and I would prefer not to get them into an injury. I have been looking for similarly packaged, purely antiseptic ones, but I haven’t found any yet. If you stick with the paper-foil wrapped ones, the solution is probably to test one or two every few months to make sure they are still moist enough for use. These may be better than the ones I had. I can’t remember what brand they were.

Besides a number of Band Aids, dressings, and moleskin, you get some wound closure strips, which I have found very helpful on long, deep cuts. There are two petrolatum gauzes. These are good for wounds such as bad burns, where you want to be sure the dressing doesn’t adhere. They can also be used for penetrating chest wounds by laying them over the hole with the Mylar wrapper left on as a backer and then taped down on three sides. Some of the literature I’ve been exposed to says that any penetrating wound in the chest should have a seal applied to it, particularly if there are bubbles exiting with the blood. The seal you apply can help keep air out of the chest and will, hopefully, prevent a collapsed lung. Collapsed lungs require skilled and knowledgeable treatment that is beyond my skillset, so preventing them is a good thing.

Chinook provides a syringe that holds about two ounces for irrigating and cleaning wounds. There is nothing in the kit to make a solution for irrigation with, so I presume the plan is to use the cleanest available water. While my first aid teacher said plain old water works just fine, I like to use medical saline and keep cans of spray saline in my kits. From treating scraped knees and the like on Cub Scouts, it seems that saline is less irritating than plain water, since it matches our body’s chemistry better than water. The spray cans are great, as they keep the saline sterile while a bottle of liquid will go bad after opening. Since water doesn’t match our cells, they can absorb it and be damaged. This probably doesn’t matter on most of the wounds we are likely to deal with, but it might matter during long-term treatment of a deep wound. The problem with my can of saline spray is that it doesn’t fit into the bag and would defeat the goal here of a compact kit. My thought would be to add some packets of the powder used to make saline and mix it with boiled water, if there were time. Otherwise, I would just go with clean potable water and get the wound as clean as I could. All this verbiage aside, if it is really bleeding, getting that stopped is far more important that cleaning things up.

Some other items that were good to find were a couple of the aluminum survival blankets. While they can help you survive if caught in the cold, they are wonderful for treating someone who is suffering from hypothermia.

You get a couple of N95 masks to protect you from diseases (or others from what you may have).

There is a thermometer which can tell you if someone is suffering from an infection. I liked the penlight they included, as it could be helpful in the dark or for peering into orifices. It is actuated by pressing the pocket clip, and I wish there had been a shield to keep it from being turned on by accident in the bag. I would take a bit of painter’s tape and put it between the clip and the contact.

The sharp pair of EMT shears was also welcome. You might have to cut away clothing to treat a wound, and these shears will cut most anything while having the nub on the blade tip that keeps you from cutting the patient which isn’t good bedside manner. The included tweezers are welcome for the splinter prone among us, and they could also help remove stingers.

Speaking of getting stung, there is a container of AfterBite Extra for stings and bites.

The medications pouch gives you aspirin, ibuprofen, an anti-diarrhea med, an antihistamine, and some powder to make a rehydration drink. Dehydration can be a serious issue and the drink can help a victim recover.

They gave us the usual exam gloves to protect us from blood and a disposal bag for biohazards, which was another nice find.

There were a few items I would add that I mentioned above: an Israeli bandage and something to make sterile saline with. I was a bit surprised that there weren’t a few acetaminophen tablets, since some folks don’t tolerate aspirin and ibuprofen well (plus kids aren’t supposed to have aspirin.) I would add some of those. I also like self-adherent tapes better than adhesive ones and might try to get a small roll of that in too. Each has their place, but I like being able to check a wound without having to peel tape off of Cub Scouts with tender skin. If I were feeling flush with funds, a roll of hemostatic gauze would be on my agenda. The problem, however, is how much of this I could smoosh into the bag and still get it closed. The biggest problem I had with it was repacking it after pulling everything out, and since I opened a number of things, I had less to put back; in other words, there isn’t much extra space left. I know that a CPR mask is not going to go in, and that’s why they provided the shield instead, but I prefer masks and would clip one to the carry straps.

Overall, I thought the kit was a good value. I tried pricing the items individually and went about $10 over the kit price, before getting everything in the bag. It would be a great choice to throw in a car or carry along on a camping or hunting trip, thanks to how well it is organized and packed.

Some are going to fret about a few things that were left out. A lot of people in Internet forums are talking about how it is imperative to have decompression needles to deal with collapsed lungs along with airway kits and even tracheotomy supplies. I’m not trained in how to use any of this equipment, and I suspect that a lot of the people touting the gear aren’t either. These are some of the topics I have gone over with my doctor friend, and he says there is incredible potential for damage when you don’t have the skills and knowledge to use this stuff. As well as training, you need practice to maintain skills. A YouTube video is not proper training. The only reason I see to spend money on it is the hope that someone might pop up who knows how to use it. Speaking of training, I have written about it before. Be sure to get some. Dealing with an injury is frightening, but having some idea of what needs to be done and how to do it is going to help get you through it. Sitting there with a bag of tools and supplies and not knowing what they are for isn’t. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor, Scot Frank Erie



Recipe of the Week: Enchilada Sauce, by L.H.

I haven’t priced the stuff in 10 years, but back then buying two cans of it came near to the cost of the meat for the dish I was purchasing it for. So by golly, I decided I could learn to make my own, homemade, at a much lower cost. This recipe does it; it tastes exactly the same as the name-brand cans in the grocery store, at 1/4 the cost. And it’s easy too! I think you’ll like it.

I usually double the recipe, which is no more trouble than a single batch, and use/freeze it in 2-cup (pint) canning jars. I use one for my recipe, and have two more ready in the freezer for two more meals.

  • 2 tbs. vegetable oil
  • 2 tbs. flour
  • 2 tbs. chili powder
  • 1 can (8 oz.) tomato sauce
  • 2 c. water
  • 1/2 tsp. cumin
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. garlic powder

In medium saucepan (large one if doubling) heat oil over medium heat; lower heat a little and whisk in flour and chili powder. Whisk together for 1 minute. Add remaining ingredients. Stir/whisk well, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Makes 3 c. sauce.

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlogreaders? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Letter Re: What Haven’t I Thought Of For Nuclear Survival?

Hugh,

I spent 15 years in the nuclear industry working at a nuke plant and was the site Radiochemist most of that time. I have never seen any sort of functional anti-C that will “stop” or even attenuate gamma radiation.

In fact, nothing will “stop” gamma rays. Shielding (lead, concrete, water) can attenuate gamma rays, but it will not “stop” it. Some measurable energy still gets through all shielding. So I am not sure what the author is referring to, but any anti-C that isn’t meant to be disposed of has to be deconned after each use. Of course when you are deconning something, you’re going to want to be wearing anti-Cs, so I guess you would need at least 2 pair? But who wants to try to wear a lead suit around anyway?

Beta and alpha radiation can be attenuated by something as thin as a piece of paper. So most any anti-c you buy will be effective against them. Tyvek suits are used throughout the commercial nuclear industry.

The keys to reducing your radiation exposure are Time-Distance-Sheilding. Reduce the time you spend in areas of high dose rates. Put distance between yourself and sources of radiation. Put shielding between you and any source of radiation.

I think that the safest thing to do if the SHTF event is a nuclear one, would be to shelter in place for at least two weeks following the conclusion of the event. A month would be better. This gives the air time to clear and the short-lived radioactive isotopes time to decay away. If the SHTF event is the meltdown of a nearby nuclear plant and you are down wind and within the plume, then you need to get out of dodge. Anti-Cs are only necessary if you are in a known area of contamination. Anti-Cs will not protect you from receiving gamma radiation dose.

If you are planning for a nuclear event, disposable anti-Cs (and gloves and a respirator) are the only way to go. Of course, you need to learn the proper technique in donning and doffing anti-Cs or they will be useless to you, as you will likely just contaminate yourself and your shelter.

Regards, – J.P.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Teacher shot during school robbery sues district after being told he ‘should have played dead’. – B.B.

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Sharyl Attkisson: CDC Is Tracking 1,400 Possible Ebola Cases in US Today(Video) – B.B.

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Islamist terror: why I now fear going on the Tube (subway). – A.D.

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For those with a Netflix account: 20 Best Prepper and Survivalist Shows on Netflix. – M.A.

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Florida ‘theme park’ let’s teens shoot real machine guns, live ammo, at zombies and other actionable targets. – D.S.





Notes for Sunday – December 21, 2014

December 22nd is the anniversary of the death of SP4 James T. Davis, the first uniformed American combat casualty of the Vietnam War, in 1961. This ASA soldier (of the 3rd Radio Research Unit) was killed in a Viet Cong ambush on a road outside Saigon.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 56 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448.95) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  7. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  10. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208,
  7. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  8. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value).

Round 56 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Rapid Prototyping and TEOTWAWKI, by PMN

If there is a breakdown in the normal manufacturing system because of TEOTWAWKI, the usual supply of parts may be unavailable to replace the broken pieces of our machines. However, 3d printing might provide a solution by allowing us to make whatever we need as we need it, but we’d need to exercise caution. There are problems of strength, accuracy, and technical ability involved in this process, and it isn’t “Beam me up Scottie” quite yet.

Some of you guys/girls may have heard of rapid prototyping, which is also called 3d printing. If you haven’t, it is roughly equivalent to 21st century blacksmithing. First, you make a computer model, and then you make a part from the computer model. The materials and processes vary. I will try and give a general non-technical description of the major materials and processes.

I will append a couple of links, to help in your understanding of the processes and physical properties of the printed model.

BACKGROUND

The first article that I read about rapid prototyping was published in the late 1980’s, and it involved what is called photo reactive polymers. The article didn’t mention “3D systems”, and it didn’t mention the term stereo-lithography. However, it did talk about multiple lasers curing the photo reactive polymer material in a vat. That is turning a fluid into a solid.

In about 1995 I learned about the two companies involved– 3d Systems and Stratasys. 3D Systems produced the first commercial stereo lithography machines, and Stratasys did the first commercial fused deposition modelers, or “FDM”.

STEREO-LITHOGRAPHY: A light-protected machine with a vat of photo reactive polymer that uses a laser and actuating equipment to create a model by turning a liquid plastic into a solid plastic part.

Youtube example.

FUSED DEPOSITION MODELING: A heated nozzle in a machine extrudes a plastic filament onto a platen in a molten bead. This process also works with wax for lost wax molding.

Youtube example.

In both processes/machines, the 3d computer model is cut, with the use of software, into thin x-y plane slices. The slices are then printed on a platen, which displaces on the z axis, allowing an additional layer to be deposited and so on until the entire 3d model has been produced. In most machines, the x and y axes movement are done by movement of the platen or the head. The machines are varied as to which part moves which axis, but the process is roughly the same. Sometimes the platten goes down, and sometimes the head goes up.

Several additional technologies need to be mentioned, although this is an abbreviated list.

POWDER SINTERING: May be either a plastic or metal powder in which the powder is fused into a solid product.

Metal products may then also be infused with additional alloys.

POWDER JET ADHESIVE: An adhesive spray creates a solid out of plastic, metal, or ceramic powder.

Metal products may be fused with heat and then also be infused with additional alloys.

LAMINATE OBJECT MANUFACTURING: Paper is used to create a wood-like object adhesive sheet

SPRAY METAL DEPOSITION: A process in which a molten metal is sprayed in to mold solidifying into a part. Today there are a number of major and minor companies in production with a number of these different technologies.

SOFTWARE

All of the parts are created in what are called solid modelers. There are two major modeling software companies–Autodesk and Dassault Systems– with computer software programs in the $3,000-$4,000 range that account for most of the production. Autodesk’s products include Autocad and Inventor, though AutoCAD is much more popular than Inventor. Dassault Systems offers Solidworks. In addition, there are several older or smaller companies with products that are worth mentioning, such as Cadence, Turbocad, ProE, Siemens NX/solidedge, Cadkey, Intellicad, and Rhino. Some of these are available at quite reasonable prices.

Google Sketchup is a new kid on the block and for the basic version it is a free download. Freecad is a free modeler under development. However, my personal software is Autocad, because it is good for both 2d and 3d drawing.

The general file type for 3d printing is the STL file, which comes from 3DSystems, because it was one of the first in the field. Commercial machines usually include slicing software in the machine as a part of the product you buy, which makes the production process much simpler. However, all of the machines must section the 3d model into flat slices for printing. The slicing software produces a tool path for the machine to use in making the model.

REPRAP

For those of us who don’t have the money to invest in a production machine, costing tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, there is an independent group of modeling machines that can be bought or kit-built and are quite reasonably priced. I have built several of these machines and recommend the ones made by “makertoolworks”. I really like the MendelMax 2.0. Yes, this is a clear plug for the company, because they went the extra mile to help me get my kit machine working.

These machines are not for the faint of heart hobbyist, but they are the coolest thing around. You have to use several software programs to actually make a model with a reprap machine function– a program for slicing and then a control program. I have found “Gslicer” and “Pronterface” easiest to use but would suggest you do research in the other software available. So all in all that’s three programs and a fairly complex machine to get from broken part to new part; it is the modeler, the slicer, and the machine control program.

A good resource of information is: http://reprap.org/ Resolution is a magnitude better in the commercial machines than it is in the Reprap machines. Here is a picture of a set of handles I did for a friend’s S38 auto 1911 on my Mendelmax 2-0 and a picture of the product done on a commercial machine. The black model is done in 1.75mm black PLA on a Mendelmax 2.0, and the white model is done in white nylon at Shapeways.

As you can see, the Shapeway’s object is much higher resolution. Information about the reproduction company’s product and shameless plug for the product is online.

MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

Engineering properties is beyond the scope of this post, but in general Sintered or Polyjet plastic powder models can be thought of as having a homogeneous or isomorphic structure, where as fused deposition models should be thought of as having a grain somewhat similar to a piece of wood. Metal Sintered models may also be thought of as having a homogeneous or isomorphic structure and are of course much stronger.

With Sintered or Polyjet powdered models, which are going to be produced on commercial machines, it isn’t as necessary to think about the relationship of the shape of the model to the platen or XY plane. With fused deposition models it is absolutely necessary to think about the shape of the model relative to the platen or XY plane. This is because overhang shape is a very important consideration in printing FDM 3d models.

In most commercial machines using laser sintering or Polyjet glue with a powder medium, the material is self-supporting layer by layer, because the non-printed material is deposited along with the hardened material. When the model is finished the extra powder material is vacuumed out of the model and may be reused, after sifting or cleaning. Consideration of hollows and enclosed spaces is important in this respect.

Photo reactive polymer machines use software to create their own overhang support material, which is dissolved or cleaned away after the model is finished. With these machines, care should be taken in the orientation of the models to provide a stable base for the model as it is grown in the medium.

With FDM models, overhangs are a limiting constraint. With these machines a support structure may be created by the slicing tool path software for the first extrusion head, or a second extrusion head may be used to provide a support structure of different material more easily removable for the model. I have found that anything less than 45 degrees of slope is difficult to achieve without support structure, and the support material done of the main extrusion material is difficult to remove. So far I have found it impractical to use the main material for support structure, because it’s hard to remove, and I haven’t wanted to go to the additional complication of a 2nd, more easily removed support material and head. With FDM, it is easiest to use a constant section or orient the shape so that it will get smaller as the model is printed.

FUTURE

I remember in the early 1990’s, when I was first trying to produce ray traced renderings from 3d models and had to use a 386 Intel chip-based machine that would take 48 hours to produce a 2k x 4k pixel image. I can now produce a similar image in 10 or 15 minutes. In the same vain, it can take several hours to produce a 3d print of reasonable size and complexity. I am sure that similar progress will be coming in the future, if we manage to avoid the kind of mistakes we all worry about here. But even with current limits to the technology you can do amazing things with 3d printing right in your own basement.

Other cautions:

  • I use a mechanical air filter machine and a filter face mask when I’m tending my prints, as I have found that the PLA fumes are a little irritating.
  • I have also mounted a fire alarm above the 3d printer, and
  • I never let it run unattended. It will be running at 195 to 220 degrees centigrade and should be considered a fire hazard.
  • The multitude of settings make the configuration of the software difficult. I found the configuration provided by Makers Tool Works very helpful. I will append a couple of links to help in understanding of the physical properties of the printed model.

Information links

Information about the relative strength of different material is available online. Here are a couple of examples:

There is a lot of information on the net, and this is intended to be a brief introduction to the process.



Three Letters Re: Prepper Armor

Hugh,

In response to K.W.’s concern, posted December 18, 2014, about M193 5.56 ball ammunition vs. Level III plates: It should be noted that two things defeat body armor– velocity and mass of the bullet. The NIJ 0101.06 (the most current) standards rate a Level III hard plate to stop a 7.62mm 147 grain steel jacketed bullet at 2780 feet per second. Considering the M193 travels right around 3000 fps (close to the NIJ standards) and the mass is significantly less, that should put you on the safe side. Incidentally, it seems some companies understand this concern and make sure some of these cartridges that don’t quite fit into the NIJ standards still won’t defeat their armor. AR500, for one, states on their website: “Third party testing has been performed with calibers up to 5.56 XM193, 7.62x54R, 30.06, 6.5 Creedmoor, and .338 Lapua Magnum. Results with higher calibers may vary as they are typically over the threshold of Level III rated armor.” Hope that helps – E.W.

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Hugh,

There is a difference between police armor and military armor, and it has nothing to do with the NIJ rating.

What the Major is talking about are things like IBA and IOTV vests. Yes, these weigh a ton. My army issue IOTV with everything on it is for a full apocalypse situation and actual combat. My issue MP vest, however, is a different matter. It is a police SWAT-style vest that has IIIA armor and can accept plates. Without the plates, it is very light. I can wear it all day without discomfort and fit in any civilian vehicle. It does not have batwings or a groin protector; those are for combat. Still, it protects my torso quite nicely and allows freedom of movement.

I highly recommend a Level IIIA external vest for just about everyone, and I have worn body armor for years. Say “no” to military issue IBA and IOTV; it is way too heavy. – APC 1LT, MP

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HJL,

I just returned home from a deployment in Afghanistan. My demographics are the high side of 50 years old. My squadron had to wear our IBA to/from work every day for 71 days, and I walked to my duty station– a mere half mile from my quarters. While the protection against “what-if” was reassuring, I am now home and looking at physical therapy for l. ankle and r. knee tendon injuries that have not healed of their own accord in five months. If you are wearing body armor, typical gov’t Interceptor or the new IOTV vests, they weigh 35 pounds, and the helmet makes it 37.5 lbs; with a rifle and ammo, whether it’s on your head or clipped to your vest, your joints are still carrying the load. Then there is the 10 plus pounds of rifle and ammo I carried. I’m no couch potato; I run/ran 15-20 miles per week prior to deployment. Deployed locations don’t have sidewalks; it’s crushed stone and broken crap that serve as your walkways, generally. Once the ankle went, I transitioned from nimble on my feet to a liability to my own well being. Clearing my work area after an alarm went off was a joke. I couldn’t sneak around, and I couldn’t run to shelter, as the ankle simply couldn’t do the work. Then the knee went trying to carry the ankle’s load. While I may have been able to take a round to the torso, but any leg wound would have made me immobile and too heavy for a fellow Airman to drag to safety quickly with their own armor burden. So, while the armor is nice to have, it is not any guarantee, and if the SHTF and you lose mobility due to a similar injury, there will be no “post-deployment” therapy sessions to look forward to. It’s something to think about to prioritize. – T.G.





Odds ‘n Sods:

An excellent video tribute to a sad story that happens too often: On the Hometown Battlefield…

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Two NY Police Officers Ambushed – Both Killed from Behind Seated in Patrol Car – T.P.

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Increasingly Armed Mexican Populace Preparing for a Revolution?. – G.P.

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Why TV is EVIL – simulated reality and brainwashing by repetition. – A.D.

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A recent disaster with a mole removal has made my son unwilling to repeat the incident. Needing to deal with a couple of problem moles, we embarked on a journey to find an alternative. This video by Wranglerstar, though humerous, is one of the effective methods we found: My Last Homesteading Video