Notes for Wednesday – March 18, 2015

SurvivalBlog’s Medical Editor is at it again: Three prepper schools in NE Ohio have combined to offer what they are calling:

Ultimate Prepper Training 2015 (see http://ultimatepreppertraining.com/)

  • 5 days of jam-packed dawn-to-dusk prepper training
  • Survival Medicine 101 with Doc Cindy of Armageddon Medicine
  • Wilderness Survival Training with Tom Laskowski of Midwest Native Skills Institute
  • Homesteading Skills with Laura Fry of Stone Garden Farm
  • Early Bird discount until 4/1/2015
  • Class size limited to approximately 25

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Another SurvivalBlog reader has let us know that “Windows to our World” is free this week on amazon.com. This book may be of interest to reformed families and those who travel and homeschool.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 57 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools, and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. (An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.),
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  7. A Model 120 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $340 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. *Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 57 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

PVC Survival Gear: How to Make It – Part 2, by J.H.

PROJECT 2: The PVC Recurve Bow

There are several different types of PVC bows that can be made using heat, minimal heat, or no heat. The example I will be using here is a recurve bow, using heat, that has an approximate draw weight of 35 pounds. You can change the draw weight by changing the length or diameter of the PVC pipe you choose. I have built bows with a draw weight of up to 70lbs, and I have seen others that have made bows with a pull exceeding 100lbs. There are variations of this bow. It can be made as a take-down bow, or it may be made with fiberglass or PVC reinforcements for which there are multiple tutorials on youtube. This particular bow is simple and effective, and it works well for adults and youths alike.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS:

  • 1 piece Schedule 40 PVC pipe 3/4” diameter and 48” length (They are usually sold in 10 foot lengths.)
  • 1 4-foot length 1”x 4” or 2”x 4” board (I started with 1”x 4” but now prefer 2”x 4”)
  • 2 small 1”x 3/4” blocks
  • Heat gun or other heat source
  • Glue (I use hot melt glue)
  • 1 approximately 6” diameter cylindrical object, like a cooking pot (for forming the recurves)
  • A pot holder or work gloves
  • Cordage or string (I like using paracord or several strands of artificial sinew tied in a continuous loop.)
  • A file or saw for making notches in the PVC pipe to receive the bow string and rounding off edges (You may also want sandpaper for a finer finish and to help the paint adhere to the pipe better.)
  • Paint is optional as well, but it sure finishes it nicely. Krylon fusion colors seem to maintain their integrity the best, however I also use Rustoleum Camo ultra flat colors with a clear coat finish. The design possibilities are endless and can fit whatever application you’re looking for. Whether it be a brightly colored “emergency” survival bow or a woodland or digital camouflage or a simple black bow, you can create it for your specific needs. (This is just one of the reasons making these bows out of PVC is so extraordinary.)

STEPS:

  1. You are going to build a jig with the 1” or 2” x 4” and the little blocks you have pre-cut to 1” x 3/4”. This jig will only be usable for 3/4” or 1” schedule 40 PVC pipe. I use an adjustable jig now to fit various pipe sizes but started with the jig I’m describing for this project because it was the cheapest way to go. For an adjustable jig, check out BackyardBowyer’s channel on youtube.

    Attach the two blocks at one end of the board, in the corners, with the 3/4” thickness setting the depth for the pipe to slide between the jig board (being the top surface) and a ground surface (whether that be a work table, bench, or a flat, hard surfaced floor. So it will look similar to a ramp with 3/4” space at the “open” end. The corners and edges of the blocks should be flush with the corners and edges of the board. Use glue to attach the blocks to the board. Using hot melt glue will allow the easy removal of the blocks by heating the glue (with a heat gun) enough to take them off. This way you can flip the blocks to use them as 1” spacers.

  2. Now that you have your jig made, you can mark your pipe for flattening. The jig will create a nice tapered limb on either side of the bow, making it more powerful as well as begin to give it a nice, sleek, eye-pleasing design. First, use a marker to mark the center of the length of pipe (with a 48” overall length, you would mark at 24”). Around the entire diameter of the pipe, draw a line.

    QUICK TIP: I use electrical tape to keep the line even, and then I follow the tape line with marker and remove the tape.

    Next, measure out 2 1/2” on either side of the center and mark the pipe in the same way as the center. So, at this point you should have a center mark and two marks that are 2 1/2” each from center with five inches between them. This 5” area will be your handle. Then, measure 6 inches in from either end and mark as before. This six-inch length at each end will be where the recurves are formed. You should now have a total of five separate lines, marking all of the major points for shaping and the center.

  3. Begin heating one limb of the bow. This is the length from one end to the 2 1/2” point from center, closest to that same end. Do NOT heat past the center line! Heat slowly and evenly, rotating the pipe in quarter turns. You want the pipe to be fully heated and softly flexible. You do not want to over heat or touch it directly to your heat source. This may cause burning or scorching and will ruin the project. When the pipe is completely flexible and malleable, set the heated limb on the hard flat “ground” surface and lay the jig down on top of it. The “open” end of the jig should line up with the 2 1/2” mark that you heated to and the narrow or “closed” end should point in the same direction as the end of the heated limb. The pipe should be between the two 3/4” blocks. The edge of the board that lines up with the edges of both blocks should also align with the 2 1/2” mark. Put enough weight or pressure on the board, at the middle of the limb, so that the limb cools with the blocks firmly against the ground with the same pressure over the length of the limb. This can be done by kneeling on the board, or with clamps, or holding it down with your hands. Do whatever works for you. After about 90 seconds, pick the bow up and look at the limb; make sure it looks straight. Sight down the limb from end to center and make sure it looks nice. If the pipe starts to swell back up slightly, it’s okay. Just set it back under the jig just as before and let it set for a few more minutes. When the limb is completely cool, flip it end for end and repeat the same process as you did for the first limb. Make sure that when you go to put the second limb in the jig for flattening you pay attention to how you lay the limb down. One side of the bow will be the back and one will be the belly. When you are shooting the bow, the belly side is the side that you are looking at and the back side is the side that faces your target. The back side will be the side that the jig was pressed directly on, and the belly side will be the side that was pressed directly to the ground. Accordingly, the jig will leave a depression mark in the pipe on one side; this is the back side. When you press the second limb, heated, in the jig, be sure it mirrors the first limb. The depression from the jig should be made on the same side (the back) of the bow. So at each 2 1/2” line there should be a depression from the jig. They will mark the top and bottom of the handle area as well as the backside of the bow. Remember to check the second limb for straightness after approximately 90 seconds.

    Once both limbs are completely cool (in about 10 minutes, tops), it’s time to shape the handle.

  4. Heat the handle portion from the 2 1/2” point to the other 2 1/2” point (each from the center), slowly rotating the handle as you do. The depressions made from the jig will fade as the pipe is heated and the pipe begins to take its original shape. Once you have evenly heated (and not over heated) the five inch handle area, use a pot holder, towel, or work glove to shape the handle by squeezing it lightly from point to point. The bow should be laying on a flat surface while you do this. Pinch or squeeze the handle area in the opposite direction of the flattened limbs. Check a few times for the bow’s overall straightness while you are forming the handle. Let the handle cool.
  5. Heat one limb from the end to the six inch line on that same limb. When you heat this six inch length, take special care not to over heat even slightly. You don’t want it to become completely heated and flexible. You want to heat it just enough to bend it around the outside of the six inch pot or object you have for forming the recurve. The back side of the bow should be against the pot or recurve object. Press the six inch mark on the bow limb to the recurve object. Firmly press the heated limb against the object from the six inch point to the end. Continually press back and forth, from end to six inch line and back until the rucurve is completely cool. Repeat the exact same process with the second limb.
  6. At this point, you should have a recurve bow shape, and now it is time to file out the string notches. This is where the bow string will secure around the bow. 3/4” down from the end of each limb and on either side of each limb (on the sides- NOT the Back or Belly), make a small mark for your notches. There should be four marks in all. Use either a thin saw (like a coping or hack saw) or a rounded file or rasp. ( I use a quarter-inch, though others suggest an eighth inch, round rasp.)

    Where each mark is made, make a notch that is approximately 1/8” to 1/4” wide and about the same in depth. Test the notches and take note of how well they receive the string. Make sure that the string sits centered correctly when you fully string the bow. Once you have the bow completely strung and have given the string a few light, test tugs, hold the bow as if you were shooting it, and draw the bow to full capacity. Take note of which limb bends more. This will be your top limb. Slowly release the string to set, then repeat this process 3 or 4 times. Then, practice fire the bow from full draw with no arrow knocked. You now have a completely “shoot-able”, 35lb, recurve bow. The following is optional.

  7. (optional) Now, you can really add the finishing touches. Here’s where you add your personal touch. Remove the string. Then, you can round the ends, file them to a point, keep them as is, or whatever suits you. Also, you can now paint your bow. You may want to give a light sanding of the bow prior to painting to allow the paint to adhere to the PVC better.

    You may also want to wrap the handle with cordage or leather, or something else. Another thing you may want to add is an arrow rest. For a simple arrow rest out of PVC, just cut a piece of 3/4” Schedule 40 pipe to 3” long. Next, cut down the middle of the length of the pipe, leaving two 3” long halves. Heat and flatten one of the halves. Put the other aside for another project.

    The flattened half should have the ends rounded, and one of the ends tapered to a narrow finish. File down any rough and jagged edges for a smooth rounded over feel. The thinner rounded over end will be where the hand grips it, while the wider part will serve as the platform for the arrow to rest on. Mark 1” from the wider, rounded end toward the center. Heat from the narrow end to the 1” mark. (To clarify, you will be heating about 2” of the piece.) Bend the heated PVC as if you were folding it in half. Let it come to a 90 degree elbow shape and hold in this position while allowing the heated narrow portion to form fit against the handle of the bow. Make sure you have the arrow rest lined up correctly; as it cools, look at it as though you are about to fire an arrow from it. Will it line up? Will it sit correctly? Answer these questions before you secure the arrow rest to the handle. Once you are satisfied with the arrow rest set up, you can attach it to the bow either by gluing it on or binding it on with the handle wrap.

  8. Now set your string, knock your arrow, and go get some lunch!

Letter Re: Question on generators and EMP

HJL,

We have been considering having a whole house generator installed at our house, since we occasionally lose power in our neighborhood for days at a time. Additionally, the threat of an EMP pulse damaging the grid and our being without power for a lengthy period of time is an even greater concern.

My question is: is a whole house natural gas powered generator, like a Generac 22kv unit (along with the associated auto switching panel), susceptible to EMP? If so, what would be the best way to protect it? When I ask the electrical contractors bidding on the job, they just look at me like I’m from another planet!

Further, how vulnerable is the country’s natural gas supply? The generator will do no good if the gas is out. Thanks for any guidance you can provide. Bill in PA

HJL Responds: Anything attached to the power grid will be highly susceptible in the event of an EMP event, whether it is nuclear or solar in scope. The electrical charge builds up on long stretches of wire, which act like an antenna, and the power grid represents the majority of above-ground conductive wires. While the grid is fairly well protected against slower events, like lightning, the sheer size of a large solar event or the high speed of a nuclear event would easily bypass or overwhelm most of the protective structures. The wires themselves may or may not be affected, but it is difficult to protect sensitive electronics attached to the power grid from the resulting energy spikes. If your system is isolated from the grid system, wired properly, and well grounded, it should be able to survive such an event. However, if the system is attached through an auto-transfer type switch, your vulnerability increases. The only sure protection is isolation and a decent Faraday cage, connecting the system and powering it up only after the danger has passed.

If you are depending on a natural gas distribution, you are at the mercy of the supply chain. If any part of the chain breaks down, you have no fuel until the chain is reconstructed or an alternative found. For immediate use, an LP generator is probably the best bet, but you have to store the LP in sufficient quantity yourself. Lacking that ability, living in a gas-producing area is the next best bet. JWR’s books profile several situations that would work well.

Economics and Investing:

Last Time This Happened, Recession Followed…

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100,000 Layoffs and Counting: Is this the New Normal?

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Housing Starts Collapse in February– I wish the company tearing up the beautiful field behind my house to put in a neighborhood would read this.

Five Things People Will Be Talking About Today – Just some quick tidbits, but China’s Shanghai Composite rising 70% in 12 months is staggering.

Janet Yellen Wants to Be a Little Less Predictable – The word patient maybe dropped on Wednesday but I see a rise in rates almost as likely as seeing a unicorn

Why the Fed Meeting Could Create Fireworks

Notes for Tuesday – March 17, 2015

March 17th is the birthday of Józef Franczak (born 1917, died 21 October 1963), who was a Polish Army Corporal fighting in the World War II resistance against the invading Germans. He then carried on after the war, fighting against the occupying Soviets and their Polish communist stooges. Eventually, he was one of the last of the Cursed Soldiers resistance in Poland. His nom de guerre was Lalek.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 57 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools, and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. (An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.),
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  7. A Model 120 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $340 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. *Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 57 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

PVC Survival Gear: How to Make It – Part 1, by J.H.

In this article, we will be examining why PVC may be one of your best choices for crafting usable, durable items at a fraction of what you’d pay to buy the items from a store. I will also be providing simple steps for you to follow to easily create five different, unique PVC survival items identified as five projects. The survival tools and gear that I have chosen for this article are all items that I have personally made and have used and tested repeatedly. Some of the methods and ideas that are listed I have learned from other people and some are of my own creation, in which case some trial and error came into play. As with any survival task, there is more than one way to skin a rabbit (I’ve never skinned a cat). So, if you find a better way, use it. These are simply the ways I currently think work the best for me. Your imagination is the key into how and what to make; so be creative.

Also, it is important to always use appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) while heat forming or painting/staining any of the pieces you create. I use a respirator, safety glasses, and wear work gloves while heat shaping and forming. When I am painting or clear coating the items, I switch out the leather gloves with latex gloves. Working in a well-ventilated and well lighted area is important as well.

One noted downfall of PVC gear that must be mentioned is that in cold weather PVC can become brittle. When the item you have made is exposed to certain elements and temperatures, you may find it weak. For a piece, like a bow, where the integrity of the structure is paramount to its use, a compromised item is useless. Now, there are ways to make the item more structurally sound and efficient for cold temperatures. For example, you can double the strength and integrity of a PVC bow by fitting a PVC pipe into another. For example, a 1/2” diameter pipe will fit into 3/4” diameter pipe when the larger diameter pipe is heated, thus reinforcing the bow. There are also products that you can use to coat an item after it has been painted that will increase its durability as well as its “function-ability” in cold temperatures.

Another thing to pay attention to with a PVC item that is generally a good rule for most pieces of gear is to keep it away from fire. Also, you don’t want to set these PVC items on a heater or any heat source that may soften the item, thus rendering it weaker or misshapen. All that being said, I have only had one item fail in the three years I have been testing them. It was a take-down bow that had too many thin parts. I have since rectified the problem with the take-down design. I have made at least 30 items out of PVC, and I regularly use the majority of the pieces that I kept. (I gave several pieces to friends and family who have all loved them and have used them.)

The projects that I will be writing about are mostly heat based. However, there are many PVC survival items that can be made without heat.

You will need a heat source. A stove burner, camp fire, heat gun, or space heater can be used. I prefer to use a heat gun, as it seems to be the most versatile and controllable. There is a heat box that can be made for PVC bow making. The tutorial video for it can be found on youtube on BackyardBowyer’s channel. I am a subscriber to his channel, and he has many great tutorials. PVC is a thermal plastic and therefore can be heated and “sculpted”. There are some other items you will want for shaping and polishing as well. A rasp or file, a coping saw or other thin blade saw, and sand paper are good to have on hand for working PVC. As you make more PVC projects, you’ll find what tools work best for you. I only started with a couple of hand tools, and now I have a full tool box devoted to my PVC projects. With each project below, there will be a materials and tools list of what I used for the given item built. We’re starting with the most simple project of the five included in this article series.

PROJECT 1: A Simple Survival Cache

This one’s easy, back to basics, and it requires no heat; however, it is still amazingly useful. You can make several of these of various sizes and put them in different cache locations. For this particular example, I will be referencing one diameter (3”). However, caches could easily be made in smaller or larger diameter or length of pipe. The idea is to decide how much you want to cache and pick the pipe size that best suits the size of what will be hidden inside. These are safe, air tight, water tight, and scent-blocking containers, which may serve to save your life in a TEOTWAWKI situation, when you retrieve whatever precious contents you have stowed away.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS:

  • 3” diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe
  • 18” length 3” diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe cap (closed end glue on fitting)
  • 3” diameter Schedule 40 PVC Glue on fitting adapter, with female threads
  • 3” diameter Schedule 40 PVC threaded (male) clean out plug
  • PVC cement(You may also want some PVC Cleaner to use before applying glue, to be certain that it’s water tight.)
  • Two 50-Gallon drum liners
  • Paint and clear coat (These are, of course, optional, but I feel in this case that it might be an important decision. You may want to choose a color that can be easily seen or is high visibility in night time conditions or you may want something the same color as the place you bury it.)
  • I also suggest two or more ranger bands
  • The survival items you would like to put inside the cache

STEPS:

  1. According to the directions on the back of the PVC cement, glue the cap on one end of the pipe.
  2. In the same manner as in step 1, glue the threaded adapter to the pipe. The glue side of the adapter will slide over the end of the pipe, leaving the female threads available to receive the clean out plug.
  3. Place your survival items in the PVC cache for fit. Do not yet include the drum liners. You do not want to cram pack the items in the cache, so be sure to leave room for them to slide out freely as one bundle.
  4. Once you know that your items fit well within it, remove them from the cache and put them in one of the drum liners in an organized fashion. Wrap the unfilled portion of the bag around the contents. Then, put the entire contents in the other drum liner and do the same. Use ranger bands around the package, or wrap it with some cordage to keep it secure. Put the wrapped contents in the cache, and thread in the clean out plug.

    Some would say that the way I choose to package the items is overkill and that the items will be fine without the bags and bands. They are probably right. However, the way I see it, it’s better to be safe than sorry, and it’s always good to have bags and bands, blades and band-aids, bullets and batteries and… Oh, sorry. I got sidetracked.

    A QUICK NOTE: Before putting your items inside to cache and bury, you may want to test the water tightness of the PVC cache container. To do this, simply thread in the clean out plug and place the empty cache container under water, completely submerged, for 30 minutes, give or take. If the inside is dry with no signs of leaking, you’re good to go. If not, glue may be added to the leaky area to create a seal. You can also use epoxy putty (the waterproof variety) to seal any leaks. I haven’t had an issue with leaks in any of my caches. You want to be absolutely certain that your cache will not leak (especially if there are electronics or other items that will be severely damaged by exposure to moisture inside).

  5. Now, having made sure your contents slides in and out smoothly, set the package aside. Paint the cache, and clear coat it. Remember to keep the plug in when you paint it. Secure the contents in the cache and make sure the threaded end is nice and snug. I have been told that you can use petroleum jelly in the threads for better opening in cold weather, but I have not tried this myself.

Now all that is left for you to do is to find a place to hide your cache, dig a hole, and bury it. Just be sure you can remember where it is when you need it.

Letter Re: Firearms Philosophy

I’m writing in response to the discussion about the “narrow, but deep” firearms philosophy. I agree with the author of that post: start with your main rifle, buy quality optics, and then slowly expand your collection. There are several advantages to having guns in lots of calibers:

  1. There is always ammo to shoot. I remember several years ago, when ammo was really hard to find in my area. There wasn’t a box of .223, .308, 9mm, .45, or even 30-06 to be found, but I saw several leftover boxes of .40 S&W and .243 Winchester. They were there week after week.
  2. You are familiar with multiple calibers. This would come in especially handy if you are away from your retreat when the SHFT. It’s a generally accepted principle that in such a situation, if you are without a firearm, you need to quickly acquire one. Chances are, you won’t beat the locals to those DPMS AR-15s. However, chances are you will be able to find a bolt action rifle in a less common caliber, like .222 Remington. While not ideal, it’s better than nothing, especially if you already have a little trigger time with that caliber. This translates over to other situations, as well. Maybe you have to E&E to your retreat as described in Patriots. If you don’t have your firearm, or it breaks, or whatever, you may have to acquire one, or work security at a farm that only has a 25-06.
  3. You can find what works best for you. For your main semi-automatic rifle, .223 or .308 are your best bets. However, for a medium-long range rifle, 7mm may be your “soul mate”. You’ll never know until you try.
  4. In the dreaded long-term collapse, you’ll be shooting longer. My estimate is that after so many years, the common calibers will eventually be all shot up. However, there may still be a couple boxes of 10mm running around, since no one has that gun.
  5. It gives you versatility. If a refugee shows up on your doorstep, and he only has a .44 Whelen, wouldn’t it be nice if you had a box or two to trade or give as charity? Conversely, if he has that .44 Whelen ammo and needs food, you’re now in a position to trade with him without making it a complete loss on your part.
  6. You can use it to hunt. Suppose we’re a few years in and your running a bit low on ammo. If you go hunting, would you rather use some of your precious .308, which you can use for defense, or some 7mm-08?
  7. They’re less likely to be banned or confiscated. As the author of the previous post mentioned, at some time, martial law or just plain old unconstitutional law may be in effect. Perhaps this legislation allows less common hunting calibers, but it bans military calibers. If someone shows up at your door and asks what all that shooting was about, you can pull out your 22-250 and explain how it needed re-zeroed. This would also give you a legitimate way to purchase ammo, whose brass you could then shape to your regular rifle’s caliber.
  8. It makes you less suspicious. If someone accidentally sees your large ammo cache or notices the amount of powder you buy or whatever, you can truthfully say that you have several guns. Subconsciously, they assume that your ammo/powder is divided equally among each gun, not 95% dedicated to one.
  9. They’re an investment. One of the golden rules of investing is diversity. This golden rule means you shouldn’t just invest in gold, or gold and silver. (No, I don’t mean gold and silver and platinum, either.) While gold and silver (sorry, platinum) are excellent investments, firearms are too. If you ever need some extra cash, before or after SHFT, you can sell off one of your oddball rifles.

In conclusion, I’d like to restate that these less common rifles only make sense to buy after you’ve purchased and decked out your main rifle in .223 or .308. Consider these backup guns. Of particular interest is the Ruger American Rifle. For $459, you can have a decent bolt action in any (or all) of four less common calibers. You can also scour local gun shows for old deer rifles. – Dakota

News From The American Redoubt:

Oregon’s Ban on Raw Milk Advertising Could be Headed for the History Books . – RBS

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State House votes to restrict surveillance, drones. – D.H.

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Plan to allow driverless car testing clears Idaho Senate

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Liberty Meeting in Burley, Idaho on March 19th at 7pm at the King’s Little Theater at 2100 Parke Avenue in Burley.

There is no admission charge and the speaker is Arthur R. Thompson, John Birch Society CEO.

The topic is “What is the Real Price of Free Trade?”. Come and learn about the “free trade” agreements with the European Union and Pacific Rim Countries.

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Spokane: Armed 2nd-Amend. Supporters Confront Feds; Feds Back Down. – RBS

Economics and Investing:

White House Floats Bankruptcy Process for Some Student Debt. – B.B.

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Currency Wars Threaten Lehman-Style Crisis – This is a good article from, of all places, the Telegraph

If Economists Were Right, You Would Have a Raise by Now – It’s amazing to me how so many intelligent people just don’t understand what is happening…

Why the Fed Is Setting Markets on a Hair-Trigger – It’s all about the Fed, data, and fundamentals only coming into play if it’s perceived it will affect how the Fed will react

Big Question: Will the Federal Reserve Stop Being ‘Patient’? – The analysis in here is not all that great, but what is true is all eyes are on the meeting this week, and it will have big consequences either way.

Odds ‘n Sods:

SurvivalBlog reader D.D. sends us a reminder to use this respite from winter to take an evening, pull the 72-hour bag out of their vehicle, and make sure everything is still as you expect. He did so and discovered that his handheld transmitter was faulty (battery reported charged but would not last), 2/3 of his food was over a year out of date, and most of his meds were over two years “expired”. Also, he still had a 30-pin iPhone connector with his crank charger that won’t work with his newer phone. But, hey, his paracord still looked good!

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Protesters stage anti-robot rally at SXSW. – G.P.

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Dems Push ATF To Ban Bullets Now. – J.H.

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Islamic State blows up 10th century Assyrian Catholic monastery near Mosul. – RBS

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Always good to get back to the basics: How to grow, harvest and preserve herbs for tea