PVC Survival Gear: How to Make It – Part 4, by J.H.

PROJECT 5: PVC Survival Staff (Walking Staff, Blow Gun, Frog Gig, Fish Spear, Survival Kit)

This is one of my favorite PVC build projects! It’s fun to make and can be made with “attachment” pieces for a multitude of different options. The design example I will be using for this article is more basic than some of my very intricate designs. However, I feel this is the most “user friendly” PVC staff build I can explain. There are more “parts” to this piece of survival equipment than the previous projects. If this seems to be too much and you want a simpler design, you may choose to eliminate some of the components. The “base” of the staff will remain the same.

There is some question of the validity of having a blow gun as a piece of gear in your survival selection. Okay, it’s fair to assume you aren’t a ninja who will be poison darting anybody any time soon. However, there is plenty of information as well as photos and films available referring to the blowgun as a viable survival tool. There are tribes spread across the world who have relied on this weapon for collecting a portion of their food source. Also, truthfully, it’s fun to use. On the other hand, if you really don’t find it useful, that’s okay. Instead, substitute a small survival kit, fishing kit, extra paracord, or whatever you’d like in the empty space. The adage, “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.”, comes to mind. That is true of the most important “redundancy items” for survival. Also note that I make a variance of this staff called the Tracker Survival Staff, which includes an inlaid metal ruler and some other cool tidbits that are extremely useful to those who embark on tracking adventures.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS:

  • 1/2” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe, 5 foot length
  • 3/4” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe, 5 foot length
  • 1 cork (1/2” diameter), wine bottle type
  • Drill and bit (1/16”)
  • Heat source
  • Pot holder or hand towel
  • Frog gig tines(You need three individual tines. If you cannot find them separately, you can cut them off of a frog gig, which can be found for as low as 3-4 dollars.)
  • Marker
  • Measuring tape
  • Paracord (approximately 50 feet)
  • A rag
  • Cold water

STEPS:

  1. Take the five-foot long 1/2“ diameter pipe and measure 3’3” from the end of it, and mark it. Do the same on the 3/4” diameter pipe. Cut each pipe on the mark you made, and set the smaller cut off pieces to the side. (You will need them later, so don’t lose track of these small pieces.) At this point, you should have two pieces of pipe, each 3’3” long.
  2. Measure 3” from one end of the 1/2” pipe and mark. This mark is a stopping point as you slip the 3/4” pipe over the 1/2” pipe. Now, mark 3” from one end of the 3/4” pipe. This mark will serve as a stop point when you are heating this pipe. Next, holding the 3” section of the 3/4” pipe in your hand; thoroughly heat (but do not burn) the longer section of the 3/4” pipe. In other words, heat the pipe from the 3” mark all the way down to the farther end of the pipe (3′ in length) and around the entire diameter the whole way. You want the pipe to be nice and soft and flexible, but do not burn it. Once the 3/4” piece is fully heated, you want to slip it over the 1/2” diameter piece and slide it all the way down to the 3” mark on the 1/2” pipe. (The mark should be closer to the floor if you are standing the 1/2” pipe upright, which I suggest for this as it makes it easier to drive the 3/4” pipe over the 1/2” pipe.) Use a cool, wet rag or towel to cool the pipe faster so there is little chance of it warping or changing the overall shape of the pipes. When you are done with this step, you should have a single length of the two pieces combined that equals 3’6” overall with a 3” piece of pipe extending at each end. (One end will have the 1/2” pipe protruding; the other end will have the 3/4” pipe extending.) The purpose of this doubling up of pipe is for reinforcement and durability while walking or otherwise using the piece in a somewhat aggressive fashion. This first finished piece we will call the MAIN section of your staff.

    *QUICK TIP: You may find it helpful to round over the edge of the 1/2” pipe with a file as well as bevel the inside edge of the 3/4” pipe so that the sliding of one over the other becomes easier. It is not necessary, however, it does help.

  3. Now, it’s time to get to those cut-off pieces, but first I suggest that you round over and bevel the 3/4” end of your MAIN section. By preparing the pipe in this way, it will look nicer in the end and it makes it easier than trying to file the pieces after they are all connected. Any of the rounding or beveling is optional, but it does make for a nicer finished product; the joints will also look smoother and more natural. Take the cut-off section of 1/2” pipe and mark 5” from one end. Cut the 5” section off and set the rest aside. Round over one end of the 5” piece. Next, heat the 3” of 3/4” pipe that extends at the end of your MAIN section. ONLY HEAT UP THE 3/4” PIPE!! (You do NOT want to heat the 1/2” pipe inside of the 3/4” piece.) It is better to not heat all 3” than it is to heat too far down and risk misshaping the pipe. When the 3” section is properly heated (the full diameter), drive the 5” length of 1/2” diameter pipe as far into the 3/4” pipe as you can. Take your time, do it smoothly, and keep it as straight as you can. You can always reheat it if it didn’t work out the exact way you want. Pushing too fast may result in tears in the PVC, if you have overheated it. Use a cool, wet rag to cool the piece you just finished.

    *QUICK TIP: Using petroleum jelly on a piece of pipe that you are inserting in another pipe will make it work much easier. It also makes it easier to pull the piece back out.

  4. Take the cut-off portion of 3/4” pipe and mark 6” from one end. Cut off the 6” section and set aside the rest. Round and bevel both ends of the 6” length. Next, grab that cut-off 1/2” diameter piece that’s left, and mark 9” from one end. Cut on the mark, keeping the 9” section and setting aside the excess. Round and bevel both ends of this 9” piece as well. Now, what you want to do is similar to what you did with the MAIN section. On the 6” length of 3/4” pipe, measure and mark 3” from one end. This should be as close to exactly middle as you can get it. After that, on the 9” section of 1/2” diameter pipe, mark 3” from one end. This mark will serve as your stop point for combining the 9” length and 6” length sections. Heat the 3/4” diameter piece you marked from the end to the 3” mark, around the full diameter of the pipe. Heat until soft and flexible. Once it is ready, insert the 6” length of 1/2” diameter pipe into it. Stop when you get to the 3” mark. (Let me be clear; only 3” of the 1/2” pipe should be driven into the 3/4” pipe.) Use a cool, damp rag to cool the pipe(s). If you have done this correctly, you will have a section with a combined overall length of 12” with one end having a 3/4” diameter section extending at one end and a 1/2” diameter section protruding at the other.
  5. Using the cut-off piece of 3/4” diameter that you set aside. Mark 3” from one end and cut on the mark. Keep the 3” section and set aside what’s left. On the 1/2” diameter portion of the combined piece we made in the previous step, mark 2” from the end. This will be the stop mark for the 3” length of 3/4” diameter we will be putting on. Next, heat about 2” of the 3” length of 3/4” pipe. Once properly heated, drive this section onto the 1/2” protruding pipe, up to the 2” stop mark. Use a cool damp rag to cool the pipe. Now, you should have a piece that is a combined overall length of 13” with each end having a section of 3/4” diameter pipe. This section will contain your frog gig tines and the cork to hold them.

(Instructions for this project will be continued in tomorrow’s SurvivalBlog post.)

Letter Re: Water issues

Hello,

We have a submersible in a four-inch casing/well. Our well is 125 feet deep. I don’t know what the static level is right now. The well casing sticks up out of ground about 18 inches and has the cap on it, where the electrical goes up into the cap next to the casing. There is a pitless adapter. With the four-inch casing and because of the pitless adapter I don’t think there’s room in the pipe for a manual pump. Is there any other way that we could make a hand pump in our existing well? If not, do you have other suggestions beside a sandpoint? – M.

HJL responds: You have several options in dealing with your existing well. You need to find out how much room there is from your pitless adapter to the opposite side of the well casing. If you have at least 2”, there are several hand pumps that you can place in the well parallel to your submersible line, as long as you have the headroom available above the submersible pump. If the water level inside the well is within 20 feet, you can use an inexpensive pitcher style pump and the maximum diameter of the drop pipe will simply be your pipe connectors. A 1 inch drop pipe will usually have connectors of less than 1.5” in diameter. If your water level is deeper, you will need to use a pump type where the actual pump is at the bottom of the drop pipe and this pump mechanism becomes the limiting factor. In my well, I used a “Simple Pump” and the pump section was 1 3/4” which will fit in a 4” casing with a narrow pitless adapter with some care. In my case, I wanted to be able to service the pump with ease, so I had the original 4” PVC casing cut off about 5′ below the surface with a 6” steel casing (10 ft long) pounded down over the top of the original casing. This allowed the pitless adapter to be mounted on the steel casing (giving a much stronger mounting point for the submersible pump) and much more room in the 4” well casing. You will have to change the well seal, but a good hand pump will come with a well seal. You will just need to specify your casing diameter when you purchase it.

Economics and Investing:

The Best “Democracy” Money Can Buy: For Every Dollar Spent Influencing US Politics, Corporations Get $760 Back. – J.L.

o o o

Invest In Food

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Fed’s Rate Hike ‘Baby Steps’ Could Backfire – The author makes a valid point that most don’t consider, but he also apparently doesn’t understand that they can’t raise rates without pricking the bubble.

How Low Can They Go? Central Bank Policy Easing in 2015

De-Dollarization Accelerates As More Of Washington’s “Allies” Defect To China-Led Bank

The Unraveling Is Gathering Speed

Odds ‘n Sods:

Some still skeptical of beef checkoff changes. – K.W.

o o o

Rekindling the Flame After the Collapse by Bill Buppert. – T.P.

o o o

From www.drudgereport.com – Could this ALSO be practice for Martial Law being declared in the U.S.? Realistic military training coming to 7 states… Developing…. – H.L.

o o o

ICE: 167,527 Criminal Aliens Loose in U.S.A.. – B.B.

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Will humans be BANNED from driving? Elon Musk says self-driving cars will spell the end of motorists because they are safer. – T.P.

Notes for Thursday – March 19, 2015

Today, we present another entry for Round 57 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools, and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. (An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.),
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  7. A Model 120 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $340 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. *Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 57 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

PVC Survival Gear: How to Make It – Part 3, by J.H.

PROJECT 3: The PVC Quiver

As with the PVC bow, there are several different types of PVC quivers that can be made. A really simple, no heat version is as easy as taking 2” diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe that is 18” in length and filling the bottom 1/4 of the pipe with Great Stuff or another spray foam. This easy quiver can be fashioned to receive a belt, can be set on the ground for target shooting, or modified however you would like to attach it to yourself or your gear. Poke your arrows into the foam or drill holes in the foam to receive the arrows. You may also want to drill small drainage holes through the foam.

The quiver project I am giving the instructions for is slightly more complicated, uses heat, and has a bit more to it in design and structure. It will be more of a modern hunter’s quiver with a touch of old world design. It may be worn sling style, back pack style, on a belt, sideways on a belt, attached to a pack, or set on the ground. It is stylish, light weight, and effective, and it keeps arrows from making noise by securing each arrow individually. I hope you enjoy this design, which came about from a number of trials until I found what I liked the best and what worked the most efficiently.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS:

  • 2” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe cut to 18” length
  • 2” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe flat bottomed cap (glue on)
  • PVC cement
  • Heat source
  • Marker
  • Ruler or tape measure
  • 1” x 6” or 2” x 6” board at least 14” length (for heat flattening)
  • Drill or tool for making 1/16” and 1/4” holes in PVC
  • An opened end hand saw (tile, ceramic, hack saw or other like variety)
  • A rasp or file
  • Soft foam rubber (solid circle shape, 2” diameter, at least 1/2” thick)
  • Velcro Strip (soft/loop side, at least 1”w x 8” long)
  • Glue (I prefer hot glue)
  • Sand paper
  • Paint of your choice (optional)

STEPS:

  1. Choose which end of the pipe will be the bottom. Test fit the cap, and draw a line with a marker on the pipe where the edge of the cap meets the pipe. Remove the cap. Use PVC cement around the (outside) bottom end of the pipe, from the edge to the line you marked. Now, use the PVC cement on the cap (inside), covering it completely but not thick. Make sure to apply the cement fairly quickly, as it is fast drying. Place the cap on the pipe, and push the two pieces together so that there is a nice, snug fit. Let it dry a few minutes.
  2. Heat the pipe from the top to about 2/3 of the way down and around the entire diameter until the pipe is soft and malleable. Be sure not to overheat the pipe, as it may burn and weaken the PVC. When the pipe is thoroughly heated, lay it on a flat, hard surface and use the board to apply even pressure to the pipe. (Apply less pressure on the bottom (cap) end and more pressure towards the top/open end. The idea is to give it a tapered effect.) You don’t want to close off the top end completely. Rather, leave enough of an opening to receive several arrows. (How big you make the opening is up to you.) Hold the pressure on the heated pipe for a couple of minutes while the pipe cools and hardens.
  3. Now, you should have a tapered, “flat-ish” surface of the pipe, which will serve well for this part. Draw a teardrop shape (approximately 3”- 3.5” at its widest portion) with the rounded end at least 4” from the top (open) end of the pipe, and the pointed end at least 3” from the cap edge at the bottom of the pipe. Do this on only ONE of the tapered “flat-ish” sides. Drill a 1/4” hole on the inside of the line somewhere on your teardrop drawing. Using a saw, cut out the teardrop shape. You should now be left with a hole in the pipe which is in the shape of a tear drop. This will be the front of your quiver. The tear drop opening allows arrows to be pulled from the front side of the quiver as well as being able to draw from the top opening.
  4. Using a file, round over the top (open) edge of the pipe (inside and out) slightly. Do the same for the teardrop opening. You don’t want any sharp or flat edges.
  5. Drill 1/16” drainage holes in the bottom of the cap. (Approximately eight is a good number of holes.) Do the same with the foam rubber piece, which will be the “nest” for the tips of your arrows.
  6. Using the glue (hot glue), fasten the Velcro to the inside of the pipe at the top (open) end. Be sure not to let the edge of the Velcro protrude past the edge of the pipe opening. (I like leaving an 1/8” of pipe at the end.) You want to make a ring that runs the entire diameter of the pipe. This Velcro ring helps quiet any rattling when arrows are in the quiver and ensures you don’t damage arrows when you draw them from the quiver. You may want to do the same on the inside of the pipe around the teardrop opening, however, it is not necessary.
  7. Drill two 1/4” holes approximately 2” from the top (open) end on the back (NOT teardrop) side of the quiver, about 3” apart from each other. Again, on the back side, 2” above the edge of the cap, drill two holes (1/4”) about 3” apart. These quarter-inch holes will allow you to use cordage to carry the quiver in a variety of positions. You can make individual loops for each hole to accept a belt or use lengths of cordage to wear the quiver as a sling, backpack style or on the hip.
  8. Push the foam rubber piece down inside the quiver until it is completely pressed against the inside of the cap. Make sure it is securely snug in its place and evenly pressed around the inside of the pipe diameter.
  9. (Optional) Sand and paint the quiver.

I hope you enjoy this lightweight, efficient, and eye-pleasing quiver as well as the pride that comes with having made it yourself!

PROJECT 4: Knife Sheath or Ax/Hatchet Mask

PVC has been called the poor man’s Kydex. This is because you can make a very nice friction-retention sheath or tool mask very simply and inexpensively. The results are an amazingly handsome, durable, and reliable piece that won’t break your piggy bank. This project is more specification oriented than the others because the PVC material size you will need is dependent on what tool you are making the sheath or mask for.

The example I will be using is a sheath for a traditional KA-Bar Fighting/Utility knife. The process works similarly for any sheath or tool mask. There are several youtube tutorials for making PVC sheaths, masks, et cetera.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS:

  • 3/4” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe, 12” length
  • Heat source
  • Marker
  • Ruler or tape measure
  • Pot holder or hand towel
  • Hand saw (coping, hacksaw, et cetera)
  • Flat file or rasp

STEPS:

  1. Measure the length of your blade, from hilt to point. Add 1/2” to that measurement. (In this example, the total then is 7 1/2”.) From one end of the PVC pipe, measure the 7 1/2” and mark the pipe. With a saw, make a slight (approximately 1/3 of the way through) cut into the pipe.
  2. From the opposite end of where you measured from, use the saw to cut the pipe’s diameter at the same depth as your initial cut, down the length of the pipe until your initial cut is met with the cut you are making. If you have done this correctly, you will have a scrap of PVC that is about a third of the overall diameter of the pipe and is 4 1/2” in length. Set the scrap aside. Now, you should have a piece of pipe that has a 7 1/2” length, full diameter, with the other 4 1/2 inches being about 2/3rds of the pipe’s diameter. This 2/3rds portion will be heat formed into a “belt loop”.
  3. Using your heat source, heat the entirety of the full diameter portion of the pipe, which is the part that will accept and retain the blade, until it is soft and flexible, making sure not to overheat it. Once it is properly heated, slide the blade of your knife into the opening, and with your pot holder or towel firmly press the soft PVC to both sides of your blade (NOT the edge or spine of the blade; focus on the “flat sides” only). This will take some close attention, as you want to be sure that there are no gaps between the inside of the pipe and the sides of the blade. You want a nice, tight fit so the friction will hold the blade in place. Keep pressing the PVC into the metal of the blade until it is completely cool. At first, you may notice that the portion that will become your “belt loop” seems to be in the way of the hilt or handle. Don’t mind this, it will adjust as you shape the sheath to the blade.

    Another way to do this is with two 2x4s and clamps. If you choose this method, I recommend watching a video or otherwise getting instruction on how to do it.

  4. First, use the file or rasp to round over and smooth out any rough or jagged edges on the “belt loop” portion of the pipe. Next, using your heat source, heat the very end of the “belt loop” (approximately 1” from the end to the tip of the end) and using the diameter of the marker or a pencil to curl this end over (use a pot holder to keep your hand from getting burned) shape into a small loop. Hold it until it’s cool and stiff. Then heat the rest of the portion of the “Belt Loop” until it is soft and flexible. This will not take long, and be sure to not over heat the PVC. Once this portion is sufficiently heated, using a pot holder or hand towel, bend the heated portion to where the end of the small loop meets the full diameter portion of the PVC pipe, resulting in a completed, large “belt loop”. Again, hold until it’s cooled. Using the diameter of a marker to shape the bent over part of the top of the large loop helps to keep a consistent shape for the entirety of the loop. This “upper” bend in the loop should be where you made your initial cut. If you have done this correctly, you should have an opening to receive the blade of your knife, and at that opening is where the “belt loop” will start, of course bending away from the opening, with another small loop at the bottom of the belt loop. If these instructions seem confusing in any way, there is a tutorial on youtube by CrypticCRICKET called “Knife sheath – made from PVC”. He uses a similar method to mine, and I’m sure he’d appreciate the views.
  5. At this point, you should have a basic, usable knife sheath. From here, it’s all about the details of fine shaping, smoothing, sanding, and painting. The options are nearly infinite and all up to your creative capacity.

As I stated earlier, other sheaths and or tool masks can be made similarly, using this basic method. You may choose to forego a “belt loop” altogether or come up with your own unique design. There is a plethora of information on the web about making sheaths and such from PVC. Have fun with this, and see what you can come up with.

Letter Re: Little Things WILL Become Big Things, and Food Will Be Everything!, by L.T.

Hugh,

I just wanted to say what a great article LT wrote. I have been a long time “back to the earth” guy, and the last few years have had me going at breakneck speed to “fully prepare” and put even more things in place. I am an older parent of three young boys and have felt VERY pressed in the last few years to get our 20 acres in order and get some more resiliency in place for what I see as a very uncertain future. My rural upbringing, military service, outdoor education, and EMT background have given me many tools to work with, but only through practice can you truly understand the complexity of becoming more self sufficient. The learning curve even for someone with pre-existing skills is tough. I have been very methodical about tapping into my network of old timers (my wife calls them “Geezer Ambassadors”) who can offer a lifetime of country skills.

If anything, the only short comings I saw in the well thought out article are in the actual small scale subsistence farming equipment needed and the ever-present need to tap into a “network” of people who know the region you’re in and how to farm it, and who have done it. These folks are dying every day, and their wisdom and experience are typically dying with them.

Great job, LT. – RC

Economics and Investing:

U.S. Treasury Drops a Bombshell Yesterday: “Quicksilver Markets”. – P.K.

o o o

More QE= More money= More Debt= More Interest/Fee’s= More profit banks= More staff+bonuses= Bigger banks= Bigger fairy tales

o o o

Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Goldman’s FOMC Post-Mortem – “More Dovish Than Expected” But Hike Coming In September– There is a lot of talk about bad things coming this fall. One thing is for sure, though; if any real rate hike did come in the fall, this economy that is built on cheap money would fall out of bed.

Yellen Admits “Market Valuations Are On The High Side”, Adds “No Comment” On Biotech, Social Media Stocks – While listening to the Yellen press conference, I busted out laughing when I heard this response from Yellen.

What Happened to the Middle-Class American Family?

Fed Won’t Raise Interest Rates This Year: Marc Faber

Odds ‘n Sods:

So this is what transparency of government looks like: US sets new record for denying, censoring government files. – G.P.

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Pam was so Big she….. – H.L.

o o o

This site is a bit alarmist, but the DEFCON level is real. As SurvivalBlog reader R.G points out – The last time we were at DEFCON level 3 was during 9/11. DEFCON Warning System Announced ‘Encounter With Russian Actors’ And ‘US Base Placed On Alert For Possible Incoming’ Last Night As WW3 Heats Up!. – P.S.

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The Betrayal Papers: And the Press Says Nothing…B.B.

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From our friend, Wranglerstar: A Simple Kind Of Life

Notes for Wednesday – March 18, 2015

SurvivalBlog’s Medical Editor is at it again: Three prepper schools in NE Ohio have combined to offer what they are calling:

Ultimate Prepper Training 2015 (see http://ultimatepreppertraining.com/)

  • 5 days of jam-packed dawn-to-dusk prepper training
  • Survival Medicine 101 with Doc Cindy of Armageddon Medicine
  • Wilderness Survival Training with Tom Laskowski of Midwest Native Skills Institute
  • Homesteading Skills with Laura Fry of Stone Garden Farm
  • Early Bird discount until 4/1/2015
  • Class size limited to approximately 25

o o o

Another SurvivalBlog reader has let us know that “Windows to our World” is free this week on amazon.com. This book may be of interest to reformed families and those who travel and homeschool.

o o o

Today, we present another entry for Round 57 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $12,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less then one minute without the use of any tools, and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 30 DPMS AR-15 .223/5.56 30 Round Gray Mil Spec w/ Magpul Follower Magazines (a value of $448) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. (An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.),
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  7. A Model 120 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $340 value),
  8. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  9. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  12. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. *Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Y-Shot Slingshot and a Locking Rifle Rack (a $379 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 57 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

PVC Survival Gear: How to Make It – Part 2, by J.H.

PROJECT 2: The PVC Recurve Bow

There are several different types of PVC bows that can be made using heat, minimal heat, or no heat. The example I will be using here is a recurve bow, using heat, that has an approximate draw weight of 35 pounds. You can change the draw weight by changing the length or diameter of the PVC pipe you choose. I have built bows with a draw weight of up to 70lbs, and I have seen others that have made bows with a pull exceeding 100lbs. There are variations of this bow. It can be made as a take-down bow, or it may be made with fiberglass or PVC reinforcements for which there are multiple tutorials on youtube. This particular bow is simple and effective, and it works well for adults and youths alike.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS:

  • 1 piece Schedule 40 PVC pipe 3/4” diameter and 48” length (They are usually sold in 10 foot lengths.)
  • 1 4-foot length 1”x 4” or 2”x 4” board (I started with 1”x 4” but now prefer 2”x 4”)
  • 2 small 1”x 3/4” blocks
  • Heat gun or other heat source
  • Glue (I use hot melt glue)
  • 1 approximately 6” diameter cylindrical object, like a cooking pot (for forming the recurves)
  • A pot holder or work gloves
  • Cordage or string (I like using paracord or several strands of artificial sinew tied in a continuous loop.)
  • A file or saw for making notches in the PVC pipe to receive the bow string and rounding off edges (You may also want sandpaper for a finer finish and to help the paint adhere to the pipe better.)
  • Paint is optional as well, but it sure finishes it nicely. Krylon fusion colors seem to maintain their integrity the best, however I also use Rustoleum Camo ultra flat colors with a clear coat finish. The design possibilities are endless and can fit whatever application you’re looking for. Whether it be a brightly colored “emergency” survival bow or a woodland or digital camouflage or a simple black bow, you can create it for your specific needs. (This is just one of the reasons making these bows out of PVC is so extraordinary.)

STEPS:

  1. You are going to build a jig with the 1” or 2” x 4” and the little blocks you have pre-cut to 1” x 3/4”. This jig will only be usable for 3/4” or 1” schedule 40 PVC pipe. I use an adjustable jig now to fit various pipe sizes but started with the jig I’m describing for this project because it was the cheapest way to go. For an adjustable jig, check out BackyardBowyer’s channel on youtube.

    Attach the two blocks at one end of the board, in the corners, with the 3/4” thickness setting the depth for the pipe to slide between the jig board (being the top surface) and a ground surface (whether that be a work table, bench, or a flat, hard surfaced floor. So it will look similar to a ramp with 3/4” space at the “open” end. The corners and edges of the blocks should be flush with the corners and edges of the board. Use glue to attach the blocks to the board. Using hot melt glue will allow the easy removal of the blocks by heating the glue (with a heat gun) enough to take them off. This way you can flip the blocks to use them as 1” spacers.

  2. Now that you have your jig made, you can mark your pipe for flattening. The jig will create a nice tapered limb on either side of the bow, making it more powerful as well as begin to give it a nice, sleek, eye-pleasing design. First, use a marker to mark the center of the length of pipe (with a 48” overall length, you would mark at 24”). Around the entire diameter of the pipe, draw a line.

    QUICK TIP: I use electrical tape to keep the line even, and then I follow the tape line with marker and remove the tape.

    Next, measure out 2 1/2” on either side of the center and mark the pipe in the same way as the center. So, at this point you should have a center mark and two marks that are 2 1/2” each from center with five inches between them. This 5” area will be your handle. Then, measure 6 inches in from either end and mark as before. This six-inch length at each end will be where the recurves are formed. You should now have a total of five separate lines, marking all of the major points for shaping and the center.

  3. Begin heating one limb of the bow. This is the length from one end to the 2 1/2” point from center, closest to that same end. Do NOT heat past the center line! Heat slowly and evenly, rotating the pipe in quarter turns. You want the pipe to be fully heated and softly flexible. You do not want to over heat or touch it directly to your heat source. This may cause burning or scorching and will ruin the project. When the pipe is completely flexible and malleable, set the heated limb on the hard flat “ground” surface and lay the jig down on top of it. The “open” end of the jig should line up with the 2 1/2” mark that you heated to and the narrow or “closed” end should point in the same direction as the end of the heated limb. The pipe should be between the two 3/4” blocks. The edge of the board that lines up with the edges of both blocks should also align with the 2 1/2” mark. Put enough weight or pressure on the board, at the middle of the limb, so that the limb cools with the blocks firmly against the ground with the same pressure over the length of the limb. This can be done by kneeling on the board, or with clamps, or holding it down with your hands. Do whatever works for you. After about 90 seconds, pick the bow up and look at the limb; make sure it looks straight. Sight down the limb from end to center and make sure it looks nice. If the pipe starts to swell back up slightly, it’s okay. Just set it back under the jig just as before and let it set for a few more minutes. When the limb is completely cool, flip it end for end and repeat the same process as you did for the first limb. Make sure that when you go to put the second limb in the jig for flattening you pay attention to how you lay the limb down. One side of the bow will be the back and one will be the belly. When you are shooting the bow, the belly side is the side that you are looking at and the back side is the side that faces your target. The back side will be the side that the jig was pressed directly on, and the belly side will be the side that was pressed directly to the ground. Accordingly, the jig will leave a depression mark in the pipe on one side; this is the back side. When you press the second limb, heated, in the jig, be sure it mirrors the first limb. The depression from the jig should be made on the same side (the back) of the bow. So at each 2 1/2” line there should be a depression from the jig. They will mark the top and bottom of the handle area as well as the backside of the bow. Remember to check the second limb for straightness after approximately 90 seconds.

    Once both limbs are completely cool (in about 10 minutes, tops), it’s time to shape the handle.

  4. Heat the handle portion from the 2 1/2” point to the other 2 1/2” point (each from the center), slowly rotating the handle as you do. The depressions made from the jig will fade as the pipe is heated and the pipe begins to take its original shape. Once you have evenly heated (and not over heated) the five inch handle area, use a pot holder, towel, or work glove to shape the handle by squeezing it lightly from point to point. The bow should be laying on a flat surface while you do this. Pinch or squeeze the handle area in the opposite direction of the flattened limbs. Check a few times for the bow’s overall straightness while you are forming the handle. Let the handle cool.
  5. Heat one limb from the end to the six inch line on that same limb. When you heat this six inch length, take special care not to over heat even slightly. You don’t want it to become completely heated and flexible. You want to heat it just enough to bend it around the outside of the six inch pot or object you have for forming the recurve. The back side of the bow should be against the pot or recurve object. Press the six inch mark on the bow limb to the recurve object. Firmly press the heated limb against the object from the six inch point to the end. Continually press back and forth, from end to six inch line and back until the rucurve is completely cool. Repeat the exact same process with the second limb.
  6. At this point, you should have a recurve bow shape, and now it is time to file out the string notches. This is where the bow string will secure around the bow. 3/4” down from the end of each limb and on either side of each limb (on the sides- NOT the Back or Belly), make a small mark for your notches. There should be four marks in all. Use either a thin saw (like a coping or hack saw) or a rounded file or rasp. ( I use a quarter-inch, though others suggest an eighth inch, round rasp.)

    Where each mark is made, make a notch that is approximately 1/8” to 1/4” wide and about the same in depth. Test the notches and take note of how well they receive the string. Make sure that the string sits centered correctly when you fully string the bow. Once you have the bow completely strung and have given the string a few light, test tugs, hold the bow as if you were shooting it, and draw the bow to full capacity. Take note of which limb bends more. This will be your top limb. Slowly release the string to set, then repeat this process 3 or 4 times. Then, practice fire the bow from full draw with no arrow knocked. You now have a completely “shoot-able”, 35lb, recurve bow. The following is optional.

  7. (optional) Now, you can really add the finishing touches. Here’s where you add your personal touch. Remove the string. Then, you can round the ends, file them to a point, keep them as is, or whatever suits you. Also, you can now paint your bow. You may want to give a light sanding of the bow prior to painting to allow the paint to adhere to the PVC better.

    You may also want to wrap the handle with cordage or leather, or something else. Another thing you may want to add is an arrow rest. For a simple arrow rest out of PVC, just cut a piece of 3/4” Schedule 40 pipe to 3” long. Next, cut down the middle of the length of the pipe, leaving two 3” long halves. Heat and flatten one of the halves. Put the other aside for another project.

    The flattened half should have the ends rounded, and one of the ends tapered to a narrow finish. File down any rough and jagged edges for a smooth rounded over feel. The thinner rounded over end will be where the hand grips it, while the wider part will serve as the platform for the arrow to rest on. Mark 1” from the wider, rounded end toward the center. Heat from the narrow end to the 1” mark. (To clarify, you will be heating about 2” of the piece.) Bend the heated PVC as if you were folding it in half. Let it come to a 90 degree elbow shape and hold in this position while allowing the heated narrow portion to form fit against the handle of the bow. Make sure you have the arrow rest lined up correctly; as it cools, look at it as though you are about to fire an arrow from it. Will it line up? Will it sit correctly? Answer these questions before you secure the arrow rest to the handle. Once you are satisfied with the arrow rest set up, you can attach it to the bow either by gluing it on or binding it on with the handle wrap.

  8. Now set your string, knock your arrow, and go get some lunch!

Letter Re: Question on generators and EMP

HJL,

We have been considering having a whole house generator installed at our house, since we occasionally lose power in our neighborhood for days at a time. Additionally, the threat of an EMP pulse damaging the grid and our being without power for a lengthy period of time is an even greater concern.

My question is: is a whole house natural gas powered generator, like a Generac 22kv unit (along with the associated auto switching panel), susceptible to EMP? If so, what would be the best way to protect it? When I ask the electrical contractors bidding on the job, they just look at me like I’m from another planet!

Further, how vulnerable is the country’s natural gas supply? The generator will do no good if the gas is out. Thanks for any guidance you can provide. Bill in PA

HJL Responds: Anything attached to the power grid will be highly susceptible in the event of an EMP event, whether it is nuclear or solar in scope. The electrical charge builds up on long stretches of wire, which act like an antenna, and the power grid represents the majority of above-ground conductive wires. While the grid is fairly well protected against slower events, like lightning, the sheer size of a large solar event or the high speed of a nuclear event would easily bypass or overwhelm most of the protective structures. The wires themselves may or may not be affected, but it is difficult to protect sensitive electronics attached to the power grid from the resulting energy spikes. If your system is isolated from the grid system, wired properly, and well grounded, it should be able to survive such an event. However, if the system is attached through an auto-transfer type switch, your vulnerability increases. The only sure protection is isolation and a decent Faraday cage, connecting the system and powering it up only after the danger has passed.

If you are depending on a natural gas distribution, you are at the mercy of the supply chain. If any part of the chain breaks down, you have no fuel until the chain is reconstructed or an alternative found. For immediate use, an LP generator is probably the best bet, but you have to store the LP in sufficient quantity yourself. Lacking that ability, living in a gas-producing area is the next best bet. JWR’s books profile several situations that would work well.

Economics and Investing:

Last Time This Happened, Recession Followed…

o o o

100,000 Layoffs and Counting: Is this the New Normal?

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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Housing Starts Collapse in February– I wish the company tearing up the beautiful field behind my house to put in a neighborhood would read this.

Five Things People Will Be Talking About Today – Just some quick tidbits, but China’s Shanghai Composite rising 70% in 12 months is staggering.

Janet Yellen Wants to Be a Little Less Predictable – The word patient maybe dropped on Wednesday but I see a rise in rates almost as likely as seeing a unicorn

Why the Fed Meeting Could Create Fireworks