The Costs and Benefits of Hunting, by J.B.

I’m a lifelong hunter that has gone from being a kid taken to a hunting club by his father, as an introduction to hunting back in the mid-70’s, to being a self-sufficient property owner, who can hunt year round for the non-game species (hogs) if need be. I’ll be the first to say that hunting for self-sufficiency in today’s world, particularly in the Eastern U.S., would be a short-lived venture during a TEOTWAWKI situation. The reason being is that there would very likely be a mass migration of people from the major metropolitan areas out in the rural areas looking for food. As people become hungry enough, shooting, killing, and butchering of animals will take place without any regard for regulations, since all that will be gone. People may say that these “City Folk” will not have the skill set to hunt. I beg to differ. In the last 20 years, most of the guys I’ve hunted with live in the major city area of Atlanta, GA and have lived most of their lives in this city’s sprawl. That hasn’t stopped them from joining hunting clubs well outside their home area and hunting successfully. I’ve had members come from middle Tennessee down to Middle-Georgia as well as members from Miami, FL up to Middle-Georgia just to hunt in the rural farm areas of the state. During a TEOTWAWKI situation, I imagine there will be groups of refugees fleeing the major city areas looking for safety, food, and shelter. Some groups will be organized enough to have hunting parties that can secure wild game. With groups like this filtering into the rural areas, game will quickly become scarce and eventually over hunted, as was done back in the Market Hunting days of the late 1800’s.

While hunting for self-sufficiency is a great skill set for anyone to add to their survival skills, in today’s society (not a TEOTWAWKI time) the cost does outweigh the return. I’ll throw some rough numbers out to support my statement. First, it is required in most states to have a hunting license. As a resident this usually is not a major cost. In my home state, a big game license is roughly $20 annually. This allows for hunting of both big and small game during the designated hunting season, and in the Southeast the seasons are usually long and liberal. For a non-resident, an annual big game license is usually over $200. I pay for a non-resident license in Georgia, and it costs me close to $400 because I have to get a hunting license, a big game license, and a Wildlife Management Area (WMA) license. Without the WMA, it would be right at $300. Had they offered life-time licenses while I lived there, it would have saved me a lot of money in the long run. That is what I’ve done in my current home state– purchase a life-time license.

As you can see, just the license cost can be substantial if hunting out of state. Other costs can come up too with hunting club dues or leasing property. Sometimes you can get permission to hunt farms or private land at no cost, but this is rare in my opinion. If you own land, there is still the cost of the property, be it mortgage payments, taxes, upkeep, and so on. These costs have a high variance, as it depends on the situation. For instance, my small piece of property is paid for, but I do have annual taxes that I happen to get a break on because it is in a conservation use program designated as farm land. However, I have a clearing project going on with five of the acres (for hunting purposes) and bulldozer work is not cheap.

Acquiring a place to hunt can be costly. In the rural Southeast, or at least my neck of the woods, leased property costs on average about $10 an acre. For me, even though I am a property owner I am a hunter, so I also lease different tracks in multiple states. Personally I do not partake in hunting clubs any longer. There is nothing wrong with them, but I have separated myself from this aspect and focus on what will give me the best chance at harvesting game. I have one 100-acre tract that is for ducks and hogs only. There are deer and other game animals there, but the main focus of this property are these two species. I have another 375 acres that I lease specifically for deer and turkey. I also lease a 178 acre track that is just 10 miles from my home. It is mainly a deer track, but I’ll hunt turkey and some small game, such as squirrel, rabbit, quail, and some hogs from time to time. As you can see, these properties at $10 an acre are costly. I split the cost of the 375 acres with one other friend and the 100 acres with two other friends. The property close to the house, I pay for by myself and hunt by myself. I just let go of a 50 acre track that was ideal for deer, turkey, ducks, and pigs. It was clear cut completely and was along a highway, so I decided to cut some of my costs with leased land. In some areas as little as 10 acres can be hunted successfully, but finding these places is difficult at best. From what I’ve seen, a lot of leased land is 100 acres or more, and the higher the acreage usually means groups, aka hunting clubs, have to lease them. Farmers in the Southeast also know this and lease their farms to hunting clubs too, so the days of going and asking someone if you can hunt their farm are all but gone in my area.

Unless you live on a property that you can hunt without a cost associated with it, you likely will have to drive to a property. This too creates a cost in fuel. There is the round trip fuel consumption cost, and if you haul an ATV the fuel consumption goes up from hauling it. Then there is the added fuel cost of using the ATV. Other fuel consumption factors can build on this too, such as running a generator, chainsaw, tractor, and so on.

As you can see, things are adding up quickly, and we haven’t harvested the first animal yet. Before we get there, we can also look at the cost of attractants. In some states it is legal to put bait out. It may or may not be legal to hunt over it, but in either situation this creates a cost if you decide to do it. Most states and properties allow for food plots. Planting food plots from any size always creates a cost. Most of my food plots are from ¼ to ½ acre in size. On the one 178 acre track, I have six of these plots. Just planting one can cost me between $50 and $60 in seed, fertilizer, fuel, and time. That is doing it myself and not paying someone to do it for me.

Another cost item is the tool you use to harvest game with. Most hunters use a modern hunting rifle. Unless you receive one as a gift, there is the upfront cost of getting one. Rough estimate could be $300. In addition to this you can put a scope on it, buy a case for it, a cleaning kit, and then ammo. Because I am a gun enthusiast, I have many rifles and thousands of rounds of ammo stockpiled. It is an investment on my part, but for someone who is just getting into it I think they could be outfitted for less than $600 and get several seasons from this initial investment.

There is also the idea of additional equipment such as boots, a knife, outdoor garb (camo’s, rain gear, hat, gloves, wool socks), and other items one may need, like binoculars, GPS or compass, bug repellent, etc. Of course depending on what one needs, these costs will vary.

Now what about costs associated with the processing of game? A lot of hunters process their own, and this is a given for most small game. However, for large game, such as deer and hogs, many like to use a processor. The processing of a deer or hog can range from $50 to $100, depending on who you use.

I am sure there is something I’m missing, but given what I’ve covered thus far let’s look at a couple of scenarios of someone who wants to get into hunting and see how much it can cost. We’ll be very conservative too, keeping in mind that someone trying it out likely will not want to put a lot of money into it on chance they decide it is not for them. Scenario One is someone who joins a club over an hour away in distance and has to equip themselves completely to get started. Scenario Two is someone who already has some equipment for hunting and has access to family property. Cost is also cut by having family members that can process the animals as well.

Costs

In Scenario One, the cost heavily outweighs the return. Even if you took out the gun and garb cost for future hunts, you are still close to $800. To me this is inexpensive for a three trip season. I personally put in thousands, but also I hunt everything that is legal to hunt and I am not looking for an immediate physical return. It is my hobby and my passion. In Scenario Two I’d say you are getting close to breaking even by filling a freezer full of meat for $400. If the three harvested animals yields 130 pounds of meet and compared to ground beef or pork chops costing about $3.75/pound, this comes to approximately $488.

I know not every situation falls neatly into these scenarios, but from my forty years of hunting I know there is a cost associated with hunting and I am pretty sure the cost outweighs the return in most situations. The return is a full freezer, and for me the return is also being out in nature, working the land, pitting wits against elusive game animals, and the success of a good day’s hunt. For me putting a price on this is hard, so I just look at it as it makes me happy and I’ll work hard to make the money so I can do what makes me happy. And, should I ever need to rely on hunting to feed myself, I think I have a pretty good foundation to build on for my self-sufficiency.



Letter Re: Sanitation Issues: Understanding Home Septic Systems

Dear SurvivalBlog Readers,
Recently SurvivalBlog has presented several articles on sanitation issues. I’d like to add to those.

Many homes are equipped with septic tanks to perform as a holding tank for waste allowing waste decomposition to occur. Reduction of solid waste through bacterial action works, but is a slow process and often incomplete; additionally, a large number of chemicals we regularly introduce into our septic tanks, such as common soap, dish washing and clothes detergents, bleach, commercial toilet cleaning solutions, etc., are toxic to the bacteria performing the job of decomposition.

Septic tanks are one part of the equation, the other being the leach field. Leach fields are the fluid distribution pipes running from the septic tank into the ground and are intended to operate with clear  liquids only; clear liquids does not refer to their color, but means no solid materials. Solids will fill the spaces between dirt particles and eventually form a sufficient barrier to liquid absorption to cause the leach field to fail. The only fix for this is dig a new leach field in dirt that has not been contaminated by particles, or replace the dirt in the existing field. Either solution will be expensive and quite inconvenient.

Other things which wind up in the septic tank can render the leach field useless, specifically, greases and oils, including those created during cooking. Washing a grease-encrusted broiler pan sends thick animal fats down the drain which will float on the liquid in the septic tank and be the first to be carried out of the tank into the leach field. Better to wipe out greasy cookware with paper towels to be disposed of as trash before sink washing to minimize the amount of grease and oils entering the septic tank.

Harsh chemicals should be avoided in houses with septic systems; soap and detergent use cannot be avoided, but things such as commercially available toilet cleaning chemicals can be replaced with scrubbing with small quantities of isopropyl alcohol, which can be carefully burned off in the toilet bowl.

Since waste decomposition is slow, and usually incomplete, all septic tanks will need to be pumped out periodically to remove the solids. Depending on how many people are in the family and the size of the tank, that period may be as short as three  years or as long as seven. Most residential tanks are 1,000 gallons, but they are commonly available in sizes from about 500 to 3,000 gallon.. I’ve seen a series of three 55 gallon blue plastic barrels used successfully as a septic tank where the quantity of waste is small, or the need is temporary (I doubt those can be pumped out with regular equipment, so they must be replaced periodically).

Most septic tank pumping trucks have 2,000 gallon tanks, so there’s a disadvantage to having a septic tank larger than that; one pumping session won’t completely empty the tank, necessitating a second trip, always at additional expense to the homeowner.

Regardless of how often it’s necessary, more frequent septic tank pumping is recommended. I have my tank pumped every three years, even though I could probably go another two years, or perhaps three, without a problem. Should economic and social conditions deteriorate sufficiently it may be impossible to get a tank pumped at all, and when it’s completely full solids will start entering the leach field, eventually killing it, and could back up into the supply pipe coming from the house preventing use of any of the house’s plumbing fixtures. Knowing that I have a recently pumped tank that could go as long as six years without attention provides a reasonable operational cushion.

If one has the land and money resources, a dual septic system can be a good investment. One tank is connected only to the toilets and becomes the sanitary system; the other handles all other waste water, from sinks, showers, washing machines, etc. This keeps chemicals that are toxic to bacteria out of the sanitary tank, allowing it to perform its decomposition job unaffected. This will extend the required pumping intervals, and the non-sanitary tank should probably never need pumping. Leach field killers such as grease, oils etc., should still be avoided in the non-sanitary system.

Equipping toilets, or at least one toilet, with its own independent water supply (most easily accomplished during construction or major remodel) provides an advantage. In SHTF times, family use shifts to the single toilet equipped with an independent water supply; disconnecting that toilet’s water piping from the whole house system and attaching it to an independent water source allows use of that toilet without using the entire house’s water system. Additionally, non-potable but uncontaminated water can be used for toilet flushing since that independent water delivery system for the one toilet gets disconnected and is separate from the house’s potable water system. Rainwater collected from roofs, after the first 10 minutes of rain cleans the roof, is one good source of toilet-flushing water, and will not require any expensive purification to use in a toilet. He who flushes also pumps becomes the order of the day.

If usage is confined to one toilet, then the water traps in the others will eventually dry out from evaporation allowing sewer gases and insects into the house (the same applies to sinks, tubs and showers not in regular use). Evaporation losses can be reduced by covering the toilet bowl with plastic wrap, but since the DWV (drain-waste-vent) system is connected to vents those are the pipes extending above your house’s roof that allow the plumbing system to drain properly the water in a toilet bowl is still exposed to atmosphere and will eventually evaporate from that. Periodic inspection of unused toilets is necessary, as will be the occasional refilling of the toilet bowls to maintain water seal in the trap. – N.K.



Letter Re: Tracking Dogs

Dear Editor:
I would like to relate my experiences with tracking dogs that are not even trained. We had a beagle who was born mostly blind. She was a pet. She had an incredible sense of smell that I have seen in other trained hounds, but not in a pet.

We would bring her to our children’s high school, which had 2,000 students. I would put her in the front of the multi-building facility and command her to “Find the kids.” She would start off walking making big S-shaped turns as she headed to and between the buildings. All of a sudden the large sweeps would stop, the dog would change her demeanor and now she would head in a straight line with just her head moving side to side. She had the trail. At that point you could just follow her and she would locate my children very quickly. I would not believe that a dog could pick out my two kids trails from among 2,000 stinky students  at the front of the school but she would do it any time we brought her.

Once upon the trail, nothing would distract her and to get her to stop would require her to be physically picked up and restrained. For a dog that usually was super friendly, when on the trail she would appear almost irritated when the other children would want to pet her. On one or two occasions we went on a short tour of the school but when we asked the kids where they had been they confirmed that the dog had just followed the path that they had left. When she tracked animals she would follow the scent onto and across pond water and generally would come out on top of the tracks where the animal came out. On occasions she would loose the scent on the water and swim several tight circles and turn around and come back to where she came in.

My point in all of this is simple. If a good tracking dog (or even no so good) is on your trail, then you are not going to shake it very easily! – P.D.



Economics and Investing:

Brexit triggers huge swings in exchange rates of the GB Pound.  (We witnessed a nearly 9% move in one day!)

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Brexit causes decline in global stock markets

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Gold Bullion Surges 6% In USD As Brexit Creates Global Contagion Risk
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Items from Mr. Econocobas:

Fed Rate Hike Off the Table for Rest of 2016; 12% Chance of a CUT. – What’s amazing is that folks are surprised…

Dow closes down 600 after Brexit surprise; financials post worst day since 2011 – I can’t help but think this is going to resume on Monday.  Don’t quite understand the implications of the Russell 2000 rebalancing day going to have on this either.

Global Banks Hammered by U.K. Vote

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SurvivalBlog and its editors are not paid investment counselors or advisers. Please see our Provisos page for details.





Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“For the vision is yet for an appointed time, but at the end it will surely come, it will not tarry.
Behold, his soul which is lifted up is not upright in him: but the just shall live by his faith.” – Habakkuk 2:3-4 (KJV)



Notes for Friday – June 24, 2016

June 24th is the birthday of rifle-toting abolitionist pastor Henry Ward Beecher (born 1813, died March 8, 1887). He and his adherents from his church smuggled so many Sharps rifles to Bleeding Kansas that the Sharps rifles picked up the nickname Beecher’s Bibles. Wikipedia states: Several of his brothers and sisters became well-known educators and activists, most notably Harriet Beecher Stowe, who achieved worldwide fame with her abolitionist novel Uncle Tom’s Cabin.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 65 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The nearly $12,000 worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Tactical Self-Contained 2-Series Solar Power Generator system from Always Empowered. This compact starter power system is packaged in a wheeled O.D. green EMP-shielded Pelican hard case (a $1,700 value),
  2. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate that is good for any one, two, or three day course (a $1,195 value),
  3. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses, excluding those restricted for military or government teams. Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  4. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chrome-lined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR-type rifle to have a quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less than one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  5. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 20 Magpul PMAG 30-rd Magazines (a value of $300) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt; (an equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions),
  6. Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  7. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package (enough for two families of four) plus seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate (a $325 retail value),
  8. A $250 gift certificate good for any product from Sunflower Ammo,
  9. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating an AquaBrick water filtration kit with a retail value of $250, and
  10. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A transferable certificate for a two-day Ultimate Bug Out Course from Florida Firearms Training (a $400 value),
  3. A Model 175 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $439 value),
  4. A Trekker IV™ Four-Person Emergency Kit from Emergency Essentials (a $250 value),
  5. A $200 gift certificate good towards any books published by PrepperPress.com,
  6. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  7. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site, and
  8. American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) is providing a $300 certificate good towards any of their DVD training courses.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A $245 gift certificate from custom knife-maker Jon Kelly Designs, of Eureka, Montana,
  3. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  4. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  5. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security, LLC,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Precision Rest (a $249 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 65 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Rebalancing Your Gun Collection for the Uncertain Days Ahead

With the upcoming presidential election, American gun owners are facing a time of great uncertainty. If Hitlery Clinton is elected, it is anticipated that she will not only issue a large number of anti-gun executive orders but during her term in office she will also appoint several ultra-liberal Supreme Court justices. That would dramatically alter the balance of the court. These frightening prospects have prompted many gun owners to increase the size of their collections and readjust their composition. As recent gun sales statistics attest, people are definitely stocking up. This news is not evidence of paranoia. It is simply rational self-interest.

By way of conversations at gun shows and with my consulting clients, I am now witnessing some deliberate “rebalancing” of gun collections. Here in The American Redoubt, the rebalancing that I’ve heard described is summarized as follows:

  1. Buying guns “off paper” (using cash, without a paper trail).
  2. Selling off some non-family heirloom guns in obsolete or oddball calibers.
  3. The addition of a few rifles in the most popular civilian hunting calibers, such as .243 Winchester, .270 Winchester, and 6.5 Creedmoor.
  4. Double or treble redundancy in “group standard” calibers.
  5. Selling some previously “papered” guns to Federally licensed dealers, in order to extinguish their paper trail to you.
  6. Buying “Sleeper” bolt action rifles. (I have more on that later.)
  7. Buying some complete guns or dedicated uppers that are compatible with suppressors, with corresponding muzzle adapters.
  8. Buying AR lower receivers (or 80% complete unserialized lower receivers) and parts sets.
  9. Stocking up on handloading components.
  10. Purchasing guns of particular action types and calibers that are legal in the host countries of clients’ offshore retreats.
  11. Buying full-capacity magazines in quantity.
  12. Acquiring caching tubes and desiccants.
  13. Stacking ammunition, deep.
  14. Diversifying ammunition reserves by adding small quantities of some exotic loadings, such as tracer, incendiary, AP, API, APIT, and Raufoss.
  15. Buying limited numbers of Federally exempt pre-1899 “antique” cartridge guns.
  16. Adding night vision equipment and weapons-mounted optics that are specifically compatible with night vision gear.

Planning Multigenerationally

Even if you don’t plan to shift the basic composition of your family firearms battery, then you should at least stock up in quantity with more guns to match what you already have. This is with the best interest of your children and grandchildren in mind. But remember: A gun just by itself is not sufficient. For each gun, you will need: ammunition, magazines, a set of web gear (to carry magazines), a spare optic, and a few spare parts.

Hedging Into Sleepers

In the automotive world, the term “Sleeper” or “Q Car” refers to a car that has high performance but with an unassuming exterior appearance. In the context of firearms, a Sleeper is a rifle that is highly capable of a counter-sniper role in modern combat, yet it has the outward appearance of a humble “hunting rifle”. Having Sleeper rifles may prove to be important in the years to come. So, I strongly recommend that you buy at least one bolt action rifle that is chambered in .308 Winchester, and:

Note: For muzzle threading a .30 caliber rifle, I prefer to use 5/8×24 right hand (RH) threads, which have become semi-standardized for AR-10 rifles. Hence, there are a large variety of flash hiders and muzzle brakes available to use without any need for modification. And by the way, I DO NOT recommend using 1/2×28 threads on a .30 caliber rifle, since there is not enough steel remaining to safely contain the pressure– rifling deformation, distorted threads, or worse might result. 1/2×28 threads are fine for a .223 caliber rifle but not for a .30 caliber rifle!

Needless to say, spend plenty of time practicing with that rifle. Once it is zeroed, be sure to research and confirm a drop table out to 800 yards for your primary match grade loading. (Bullet drop data is available free at the web sites of major ammunition companies, such as Hornady.com. But you need to confirm that data with testing on the range.) You should attach the confirmed chart to the rifle’s stock, for quick reference.

Some good candidate .308 Sleeper Rifles include:

  • Remington Model 700 (make sure that it is “post-recall”)
  • Winchester Model 70 (get one with a large tab Mauser-style extractor)
  • Ruger Model 77 Mark II
  • Ruger Scout Rifle
  • Savage Scout Rifle
  • Savage Model 10 or 110

I generally prefer to buy stainless steel rifles for their rust-resistant longevity. But if you opt for stainless steel, then be sure to either have it camouflage dipped by a hydrographics shop, or lay in a large supply of removable camouflaging tape.

Hedging Into Lower Receivers

For the past 15 years, the American semi-auto rifle market has been dominated by Stoner Armalite Rifle (AR) pattern rifles. They are popular in part because of their modularity and versatility. An amazing variety of AR parts and accessories are available. Because of their clever “automatic headspacing” design, they can also be assembled at home with a minimum number of tools, even by folks with rudimentary mechanical skills. Both the 5.56mm NATO (AR-15 pattern) and 7.62mm NATO (AR-10 pattern) are now incredibly popular. It is estimated that more than 4 million additional AR pattern rifles have been built during the two terms of the Obama Administration. Dozens of manufacturers are presently cranking out millions of these rifles, of varying quality. One peculiarity of both the AR family design and of U.S. gun laws is that it is the so-called “lower receiver” (trigger group), which that is the serialized part, that constitutes the “firearm”. All of the other requisite parts for building an AR can be purchased by mail order. (This is not the case in most European countries.)

With many new gun restrictions on the horizon, prescient American shooters are stocking up on AR lower receivers for later builds. Although there might eventually be sales restrictions placed on barrels and upper receivers, at least for now buying stripped lowers represents a great window of opportunity to buy “firearms” for less than $70 each. Buy plenty of them. Someday you may be very glad that you did. (Once Clinton gets the Democratic nomination, the price of lowers is expected to jump up to $200+.)

By the way, if you are a member of a retreat group or a circle of friends that intends to buy a sizable number of 80% complete AR-15 lower receivers, then I recommend splitting the cost of a Ghost Gunner 2 automated milling machine. A full review of these amazing little machines will be posted in SurvivalBlog sometime in the next few weeks.

Hedging Into Antiques

As I’ve written several times over the years in SurvivalBlog, one often overlooked category of guns are Pre-1899 Federally “Antique” rifles, revolvers, and shotguns. My current favorites are the Model 1893, 1894, 1895, and 1896 Mauser bolt action rifles. These can be re-barreled or re-chambered to handle many modern loads. They can also be restocked and equipped with modern telescopic sights and have their muzzles threaded, all without affecting their “exempt” status. For more details on pre-1899 antique guns, see the free FAQ that I authored.

Hedging Into PVC

Lastly, consider buying caching supplies, just in case you need to make some guns, ammunition, magazines, and accessories disappear. – JWR



Letter Re: Food Preservation

Good afternoon, Hugh,

Recently SurvivalBlog has presented several articles on food preservation, including extremely informative ones from your wife, Sarah.

I’ve become curious about a few things: Is there a minimum vacuum level necessary for food preservation? (This assumes other factors, such as the lack of heat-based canning procedures are not necessary for preservation.) Are there advantages to purging air from a food container with nitrogen? If so, is there a recommended procedure for that? Does vacuum sealing after nitrogen purging offer additional advantages? You have tested and reported on a commercially available home freeze dryer; how much preservation time is gained, or how great an advantage is there, by high vacuum storage (>20mg Hg) of home freeze dried food? – N.K.

HJL Comments: For food storage that contains moisture, there are only two real methods of safe storage– heat-based canning and freezing. Freezing works by slowing the process of decomposition and bacterial growth down to a negligible level, and heat-based canning works by raising the temperature to the point that bacteria is destroyed. Freezing is the preferred method for short-term storage because the texture of the food is the least changed. Canning is better for long-term storage, but the texture of the food is often changed and many do not like it.

Food that has a low to very low moisture content cannot support the growth of bacteria, so those methods are not necessary. What does matter is the removal of oxygen. The oxygen oxidizes the food, destroying the flavor and nutrients over time. There are a variety of ways to remove the oxygen. Placing oxygen absorbers in the storage containers and replacing the air with nitrogen or carbon dioxide are a few. Pulling a strong vacuum is also an effective method, but this requires a container with some strength or the food will be crushed (though in some foods, like wheat, this really doesn’t matter).

The strength of the vacuum is relatively unimportant though. A strong vacuum will remove more air (and thus more oxygen), but even a medium vacuum will remove enough air to have a significant impact on the storage life. If you are rotating your stocks and eating what you store, you only really need at most a 5 or 6 year shelf life, even if you have a very deep larder. To answer your question though, freeze-dried foods have a storage life in the realm of 5-20 years, depending on the oil content of the food (oils can become rancid) and the oxygen they are exposed to.



Economics and Investing:

Spending it all on rent: 11 million Americans spend half their income on rent. Another 21 million spend over 30 percent of their income on rent, a record high.

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COMEX Registered Silver Now More Leveraged Than Gold

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Potash Price Surge Could Lead To Higher Food Costs For Billions – “As global population surges and arable land decreases, efficiency is the name of the game. And in this environment, the little known commodity potash comes into its own”

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The Stock Crash Of 2016: Stocks Have Already Crashed In 6 Of The World’s 8 Largest Economies

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SurvivalBlog and its editors are not paid investment counselors or advisers. Please see our Provisos page for details.



Odds ‘n Sods:

Some pointed commentary about the black letter law and due process by Andrew P. Napolitano, over at Lew Rockwell’s site: ‘No Fly, No Buy’ Means No Freedom

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DIY Barrel Rifling Tool 2.0 – Sent in by G.P.

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An interesting take on What To Do About Islam – Sent in by B.B.

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Reader P.S wrote in to suggest this addition to your go bag. Bandaid Friction Block – Just rub in on the body parts where you think you’re going to get a blister and presto– no blisters.

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The traitor lets us know her real feelings: Dianne Feinstein says Americans must prove their innocence if they’re on a watch list – B.B.





Notes for Thursday – June 23, 2016

On July 23, 1942, the Nazis continued their reprehensible and criminal behavior by making the first selections for the gas chamber at Auschwitz on a train of Jews from Paris.

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Our writing contest now has over $12,000 in prizes. Today, the featured Writing Contest prize is the Three Day Course Certificate from Gunsite Academy. Gunsite was founded in 1976 by Lt. Jeff Cooper and covers 4.5 square miles with modern facilities, large classrooms and a fully stocked Pro Shop with a full-service gunsmith operation. They currently offer more than 45 different classes in Pistol, Rifle and Shotgun covering everything from basic defensive pistol to long range rifles.ccw-300x200 The certificate is good for any one, two or three day course that they offer with a value of up to $1,195 depending upon the course that you choose to attend. These are well respected certifications within the industry. You can find which classes will work with the certificate and see what works with your schedule by taking a look at their calendar. Do you need to learn how to defend your own castle? Or perhaps you just need to brush up on your range skills by spending a day at the range with an instructor. Take a look at their courses and see if this is for you!

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Today, we present another entry for Round 65 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The nearly $12,000 worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Tactical Self-Contained 2-Series Solar Power Generator system from Always Empowered. This compact starter power system is packaged in a wheeled O.D. green EMP-shielded Pelican hard case (a $1,700 value),
  2. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate that is good for any one, two, or three day course (a $1,195 value),
  3. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses, excluding those restricted for military or government teams. Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  4. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chrome-lined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR-type rifle to have a quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less than one minute without the use of any tools and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  5. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 20 Magpul PMAG 30-rd Magazines (a value of $300) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt; (an equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions),
  6. Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  7. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package (enough for two families of four) plus seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate (a $325 retail value),
  8. A $250 gift certificate good for any product from Sunflower Ammo,
  9. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating an AquaBrick water filtration kit with a retail value of $250, and
  10. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A transferable certificate for a two-day Ultimate Bug Out Course from Florida Firearms Training (a $400 value),
  3. A Model 175 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $439 value),
  4. A Trekker IV™ Four-Person Emergency Kit from Emergency Essentials (a $250 value),
  5. A $200 gift certificate good towards any books published by PrepperPress.com,
  6. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  7. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site, and
  8. American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) is providing a $300 certificate good towards any of their DVD training courses.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A $245 gift certificate from custom knife-maker Jon Kelly Designs, of Eureka, Montana,
  3. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  4. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  5. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security, LLC,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Precision Rest (a $249 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 65 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Tracking Dogs- Part 3, by D.D.

As you can see, the dogs are the least of your worries. They are just one of the tools that are used to accomplish the overall goal of catching you. They are used for direction and tracking, and they supply information to the other searchers. A K9 may also be used to grab you, just as they would anywhere else they are used.

Even if you could somehow trick or neutralize the dog, you are still going to have to deal with quite a bit of other things. To get into range of doing harm to the dog or handler is to get very close to the people who are trying to find you, and help is only a radio call away. You will never encounter just the handler and the dog by themselves. The handler is armed, and behind them is a few more people who are armed and focused on support.

They don’t have to run you down. They just have to follow until someone else corners you or you give up. They will be constantly resupplied with water and rotated out for rest. They know your chances of that are slim. Many give a good long chase only to walk out and give up, because they are dying of thirst.

Understanding The Handlers

These guys are usually professionals. They have schools, certifications, experience, and decades of methods behind the art and science of using dogs. They will have learned from people who spent their lives doing this very thing. Many are dedicated to the cause and are driven to succeed for one reason or another. To them, the dog is a tool. The handler learns to read the dog like an instrument. He knows a great many things by observation, such as how hard the dog pulls and how eager he is. He can watch the dog lift its nose at a tree or lean in a direction. He can read confusion or if the dog is unsure. When he does read these things, he knows how to bring the dog back to a point it was sure or canvass another area. They can hold position and let the escorts fan out. Handlers will read maps and approach trails from angles they think will give them the best track. They will report a wealth of information to the other chasers. If they don’t catch you themselves, there is a good chance they had something to do with it.

Some departments don’t have their own tracking teams. They may have K9 units that consist of bomb or drug dogs but no actual trackers. A department like this will usually call on another department or hire a third-party civilian dog company. These civilian companies are usually made up of former military or police K9 handlers. They, in my experience, are more knowledgeable. They are the ones who chose to pursue a career in K9 services after leaving the military or police force. Their K9 companies do not deal with anything other than dogs. The don’t have to take classes on domestic violence or writing tickets, for example. The handlers are also people, which is to be kept in mind when trying to avoid being tracked.

How To “Win”

It is not the dog you have to beat; it is the handler. What you want is a morale win. You want the handler to give up. As I said before, the handler is a person. He or she has bad days and good days. They may have been called in off vacation or a day off to work on finding you. They get tired or are out of shape. They may be sick or have just been passed up for promotion. These things are not something you’ll likely be able control, but keep them in mind if you’re attempting a morale win. Every little bit counts.

Remember previously my notes on attacking the handler or the dog. Doing either of these things can harden the will of those looking for you. They will push through a lot more discomfort, if they have some payback in mind. They may let the bite dog chew on you for a little while longer before calling it off.

I have seen a handler show up at the start of a track wearing jeans and a t-shirt. He got out of his van took about 30 seconds to look an area over and then declare the dog couldn’t find anything. The dog never got out of the van. He didn’t feel like working that day. He didn’t feel like slogging through a wet jungle. This worked because he was the professional making the call on the dog’s ability. It also worked because tracking dogs were only one small part of a search.

Tracking dogs are usually on a leash. Sometimes, depending on the area, those leashes are thirty feet long. The dog tracks ahead, and the handler follows. I’ve seen more than one handler give up and declare a lost trail after they spent an hour unwrapping the dog from being twisted around tree after tree. It was almost as if the runner was doing it on purpose. Doing something like this takes a lot of time and will seriously hamper your forward progress.

Anywhere you go the tracker has to go and he has to take the dog with him. More often than not, the dog is leading him and may get into a situation or area that will take the handler more time to negotiate. A four of five foot climb or drop will cause them to lower or lift the dog up, or go around. The handler might have to crawl through very thick saw grass or briars. This can get annoying when it happens over and over again.

Some handlers don’t want to get wet. They will call a lost trail to avoid doing so. The handler on the government dime is getting paid whether they find you or not. That handler may be wearing body armor and/or weapons. This can add significantly to his ability and will to keep chasing you. They get hot and tired, as well.

Terrain dangerous enough to cause the handler concern is another deterrent. He’s got a dog pulling on a leash and walking close to perilous cliffs can cause him to back off. He may be afraid of heights or drowning. Knowledge that you’ve booby trapped the area can cause them to give up (the tracking portion).

Additional Notes

Some of the most successful people that avoided our teams, causing us to give up, were the ones that picked an easy and fast route and headed away in pretty much a straight line. They didn’t make any attempts to fool us and didn’t even try to cover their tracks. Speed and distance were their only concern. As we slowly followed them in full armor at the pace the dogs set, they kept increasing their distance. No one wanted to sleep in the jungle at night. By the end of the second day, they were far enough forward that the trail was getting weaker. Rain on the second day was almost a guarantee that the handlers would call it off. The further we had to go in, the further our resupply lines were stretched. We also knew that walking for days forward meant walking for days back. It just wasn’t worth it for what we were chasing them for. Even when the handlers wanted to go forward, the escort teams in full armor were getting tired and suggesting that he “got away”. If the person we were pursuing made it to any kind of civilization (even a small village), the tracking portion was over as far as dogs were concerned.

Remember what they are chasing you for. If there is a full-blown state-wide man-hunt in progress, you’ve probably done something (or they think you have) that is going to keep them looking for you for a long, long time. If they’ve decided to chase you for some lesser reason, you may be able to avoid capture by making it not worth the trouble, expense, or time it would take to catch you. Just stay away or ahead of them long enough and they’ll give up.

Helicopters can cost thousands of dollars an hour to keep in the air. If the searchers have this asset available, it will have specific areas to search and most likely be on stand-by to be called in when they need an overhead look at an area. Overtime, funds for third-party contractors, supplies, gas, et cetera are factors. Someone is keeping track of how much all of this is going to cost.

Get to an area with a lot of people, such as a city. This won’t stop the search and will bring its own problems, but it will pretty much stop the dogs from tracking you in the classic sense.

You can make things worse by trying. If for instance you stole a car, got involved in a high-speed chase, and then ran into the woods, they might look for you for hours before giving up. They got the car back. The rest is standard police work. Set up a booby trap that kills an officer and you’ll have major media reporting it and several departments and counties in on the search. They will NEVER EVER give up on you.

Dogs can be commanded to bark in attempt to flush you. Many people, upon hearing the dog is closer, make a panicked run for it. I’ve seen handlers, when they think they are close, yell something like “We see you! Come out with your hands up”. This actually works. A few people have come out and done just that.



Letter Re: Vacuum Sealing Jars and Feed Store Grain

Good morning, Hugh,

I enjoyed and learned a little more from Sarah Latimer’s post. I’m interested in the method used to create a vacuum in the canning jars when dry canning. We have arrived at the same place you have– to use glass jars. We have canned many jars of dehydrated apples and other items by heating the jars in an oven to 300 degrees and sterilizing the lids, filling the jars with the contents, and tightening the lids quickly. This has worked well 95% of the time. We have heard of various devices to place a vacuum on jars, but it only does one jar. What method are you using?

When buying grain from feed stores to be used for human consumption, I have used the following method to greatly reduce bug issues:

  1. Buy freshly harvested and bagged grain. From the farmer I spoke with, he would cycle his grain from the bottom of his grain bin back to the top. This is done using a powerful blower using air. This keeps the bugs down and blows out eggs. This is why you don’t want bags that have been “sitting” for a while.
  2. IMMEDIATELY, when you arrive home with the newly purchased grain, you need to winnow it again. You do this with a fan set on the highest speed. Get outdoors, because there will be a mess. I like to use a 5- or 6-gallon white buckets, so I can see the “bugs” that might be present. I use a small scoop or coffee can and slowly pour the grain into the bucket in the air flow in front of the fan. It will take a little practice to get this right. I let the contents fall about three feet from the scoop to the bottom of the bucket. As the grain passes through the air flow, some of the bugs will be blown away and land on the floor. The ones that hang on tight will let go when they “bounce” off the bottom of the bucket. (Imagine being in a car that was dropped 10 feet. You would get out also.) Watch the inside of the bucket to see if any bugs are crawling up the inside. If there are, repeat the process. If the grain is fresh, there should be very few bugs. (I bought some wheat from a feed store in December that I know was harvested the previous July. There well over 1,000 bugs in a 50 pound bag.)
  3. Immediately package and seal the grain in the storage container of your choice. We have used plastic buckets and diatomaceous earth, and we have placed the grain in mylar bags with oxygen absorbers and heat sealed. The point of doing this is there will still be some eggs remaining that will hatch and re-infest the grain over time. – M.E.R.

Hugh’s Comments: The vacuum sealer that we use is not original to me. I’ve asked the SurvivalBlog reader whom I obtained the idea from to write an article on it for us, and he has agreed to do that. Hopefully that will be coming soon. In the mean time, we simply use a Tilla FoodSaver Wide-Mouth Jar Sealer with an industrial vacuum pump. The pump is located in the laundry room (near the kitchen) and the vacuum line runs into the attic and then down into the kitchen near a set of cabinets. There is a remote power switch and a valve mounted underneath the upper cabinet. When it’s time to seal jars, the pump is turned on and the vacuum controlled with the line valve. We hook up a jar, turn the valve on, and wait about 30 seconds while the air is evacuated. The valve is then turned off and the jar removed and replaced with another, if necessary. Only dry bulk food is stored this way. All wet processed foods go through the normal canning process.

When canning dehydrated, freeze dried, and dry bulk foods, there is no moisture to support the growth of bacteria, so the shelf life is determined by the quality of the food. Oxygen is the killer in this case, and creating at least 20 inches of Hg vacuum removes the greatest portion of that oxygen, thereby keeping the food fresh longer. The Tilla FoodSaver itself will pull about 24.2 inches Hg and was the best commonly available vacuum pump we used. Unfortunately, it wasn’t very fast or durable. It eventually died under the heavy use we put it through. I purchased a laboratory grade, dual diaphragm vacuum pump off of E-bay (used) that was rated for a 100% duty cycle and will pull a vacuum of better than 28.9 inches Hg, and I have been happy ever since (especially since it is mounted out of sight). We also keep a Pump-n-Seal handy, if we have to draw a vacuum by hand. It will connect to the same Jar Sealer or you can use its own system. The Pump-n-Seal is a bit of work though, if you have alot of jars.

Caution: You cannot use this method to store foods that have moisture in them. Clostridium Botulinum prefers a low oxygen environment and thus may thrive in a vacuum sealed jar. The heat from the normal canning process is what safeguards this food. Only dry food items can be safely stored with a vacuum system.