Pat Cascio’s Product Review – Kahr Arms CM40

There was a time, many years back, when some of the first double action only (DAO) semi-auto pistols started appearing on the market. I still remember the first S&W DAO pistols, and I tested quite a few of them, and just didn’t care for the ovey long trigger pull. I could have that on a revolver! To be sure, many of the first DAO pistols that arrived were really lacking in the trigger pull department; besides being long, some overly long, many had a hitch in their “git-along”. They were gritty, with humps and lumps along the entire trigger pull. They were not what I was looking for. Still, I owned quite a few and wrote more than a few articles about these guns. I remember one DAO pistol, the Colt All American 2000. It came in two flavors; one with a polymer frame, which was all the rage, and one with an aluminum frame. For whatever reason, the aluminum framed version had a much smoother trigger pull that was long but very smooth. The polymer framed version had a horrible trigger pull. The Colt All American 2000 is relegated to collector’s status these days, if you can find one. We won’t even go into the disassembly and reassembly of the 2000. It was a nightmare, to say the least.

We also have the GLOCK line-up for DAO handguns. Without a doubt, their trigger pull is “different” to say the least. Most describe it as “mushy”, and I have to agree. Still, their guns are more than accurate and still the most seen handgun in law enforcement holsters. The simplicity of the GLOCK is one of the selling points. Depending on who you talk to, the GLOCK has 33 or 34 parts, and take-down is as easy as can be. Still, the trigger pull isn’t the best.

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Some years ago, I read about Kahr Arms. Like all gun makers, they only had one or two handguns that they were manufacturing at the time, and they hand aluminum frames. Still, everything I read about them by other gun writers claimed they had the best DAO trigger pull ever. Many described it as the Rolls Royce of DAO trigger pulls. My local gun shop at the time, never got a Kahr in, and I longed for one. I was determined to put the hype to rest, no gun has a trigger pull “that” good, according to my thinking. However, after moving from Eastern Oregon and the high desert area back to the wet side of the state, which is now experiencing drought and one of the hottest summers on record, I found a new gun shop to haunt. Wouldn’t you know it; one of the first guns I bought from them was a Kahr Arms 9mm with an aluminum frame, and it even came with a custom leather belt holster.

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I’ve got to admit, the Kahr had one of the best, if not “the” best, DAO trigger pull I’ve ever experienced, and that includes some really outstanding double action trigger pulls on revolvers. I’ve done more than my share of trigger jobs on revolvers over the years, and none were as good as the trigger pull on the Kahr. I became a huge fame of Kahr handguns, and I own more than a few. Every single one has the same outstanding trigger pull that is buttery smooth, longish, but smooth and with no hitch it the git-along. It’s a smooth pull all the way through as you activate the trigger.

I’ve lost count of the number of Kahr handguns they are producing, in various calibers and sizes. However, I believe it is close to a hundred different models in everything from .380 ACP, all the way up to .45ACP, with more new models on the way all the time. For this article, I tested the Kahr CM40. Kahr sent me a brand new sample, to go along with my well-used CM40, so I did a side-by-side comparison of the two guns in my testing.

The CM40 is one of the “economical” versions in the Kahr line-up. Some of us don’t need some of the fancier features, like a machined slide stop, compared to one Metal Injection Molded, or a barrel that has conventional rifling, instead of match grade polygonal barrels. After all, in my humble thought process, these little guns are best reserved for up-close and person self-defense, not long range target shooting. And, I couldn’t care less how the Kahr name and logo are placed on the slide; whether machined or roll marked, it makes no difference to me.

The striker-fired CM40 holds 5-rds in the magazine and one in the chamber. That should be enough for most folks, and if you take my advice you should ALWAYS carry at least one spare magazine anyway, just in case. The barrel is 3.1-inches long, about as short as they can be for reliable functioning. The overall length is 5.47 inches and high is 4.0 inches. This baby is small. The slide width is .94 inches. The little CM40 only weighs 15.8 ounces without the magazine. The frame is textured, rough texture on the grip area, for a sure hold on the gun. The slide is brushed stainless steel with a white dot front sight and a white bar on the rear sight. The gun only comes with one magazine, so please get at least one spare. Right now, Kahr is running a summer special; if you purchase any of their handguns with a “C” (CM or CW) in the designation, you can get one free magazine. Take advantage of this!

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The only operating features on the CM40 is the slide lock, magazine release, and the trigger. The “safety” is the one between your ears, so keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on the target. It’s real simple. Yes, there are internal passive safeties to prevent the gun from firing if dropped. You have to simply pull the trigger, all the way through, before the gun will fire. As to the texturing on the grip frame, I like it a bit rough. However, on both my CM40s, I found it too “aggressive” to my liking, and so I took some fine sandpaper to it to take off the fine points. That only took a few seconds. The .40 S&W round has some serious recoil in this little pistol, and I found it abrading my hand after long shooting sessions.

The polymer frame features stainless steel inserts embedding in the frame, and the slide rides along those inserts smoothly. As an aside, Kahr holds no less than seven patents on their own guns, resulting in benefits not found on any other handguns. Some have copied and been sued by Kahr. One other thing worth note is the barrel feed ramp. It is offset to one side, allowing the trigger bar attachment to be off to the side, thus allowing the barrel to sit lower in the frame, thus lower in the hand for more control. Unlike some other small framed handguns that state that they are only good for shooting “X” number of rounds during the life of the gun, Kahr doesn’t restrict you on this. You can shoot all you want, and the gun is covered by Kahr’s limited lifetime warranty. I wouldn’t want to go out and purchase a firearm that comes with the claim that they are only good for shooting “X” number of rounds before they wear out. Plus, Kahr states you can even shoot +P ammo through their guns! (I have more on this shortly.)

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Kahr states, in their owner’s manual, that you should fire at least 200 rds through their guns before you consider carrying them for self-defense. Why? Well, their guns are tightly fit, and many other gun companies state the same thing, which is instruction to give the gun a good break-in period. My own personal CM40 took close to 200-rds to break in before it worked 100% of the time. The new sample I received from Kahr worked right out of the box with no problems for the most part.

The first thing I did, with both of the CM40s, was add the Pearce Grip magazine floor plate on the magazines. I call them “pinky catchers” because they “catch” your pinky finger. The 5-rd mags that came with the guns allowed my pinky finger to just dangle there, or I would try to curl it under the magazine. For $9.95 the Pearce mag adaptor is the way to go, and it only adds a tiny bit to the overall height of the gun. It is a “must have” accessory in my book for the CM40. It makes the gun feel all that much better in the hand.

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I had a decent selection of ammo to test. From Black Hills Ammunition I had their new 155-gr JHP load, which is always a great performer, their 10-r FMJ remanufactured load, and their 140-gr Barnes all-copper TAC-XP hollow point load. From Buffalo Bore Ammunition I had their Heavy 155-gr JHP +P load, their 200-gr Hard Cast Outdoorsman load, and their 140-gr Barnes all-copper, TAC-XP hollow point load. I also had some miscellaneous mixed ammo that I used in my testing that included some reloads and some very old loads.

My accuracy testing was conducted at 15-yards, standing, using a two-hand hold with no rest. This is a very small handgun, meant for up-close serious self-defense. I will say that the Buffalo Bore 155-gr JHP +P load is one that will get your attention right away in the little CM40. Wow! It’s not a load you want to shoot much of during one shooting session; the recoil was punishing. Then again, we are talking about a sub-compact handgun, shooting the .40S&W load that does recoil quite a bit even in full-sized guns. I like the Buffalo Bore 125 and 140 Barnes loads, which are outstanding self-defense loads. They penetrate deeply, mushroom open, and stay together. The Buffalo Bore 200-gr Hard Cast Outdoorsman load would not function in either one of my CM40s, period! Looking over the Buffalo Bore website, and in a conversation with Tim Sundles, who owns Buffalo Bore, it states on their website that this round doesn’t function reliably in the CM40. Sundles said these rounds are made to SAAMI specs, too. You can find 99 types of ammo that will function in a gun, but the 100th type won’t. Sooner or later, you will run across a load that won’t function in any handgun. It’s as simple as that. It’s not the fault of the gun or the ammo. It’s just the way it is.

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The Black Hills loads functioned 100% of the time. The 155-gr JHP load is one to consider for self-defense, and I’ve used this round for years in my carry guns. The 180-gr FMJ remanufactured loads are a great target practice load, too. The Black Hills 140-gr Barnes load, using the same bullet as the Buffalo Bore load was outstanding. It is moving along a bit slower than the Buffalo Bore load, and both CM40s preferred this round over all the others tested for accuracy. If I did my part, I could get 3-inch groups at 15-yards from both Kahr’s. That’s outstanding for such a short barrel and such a little gun. It just goes to show that you need to experiment with different loads in your guns to see which ones function 100% of the time and which gives you the best accuracy. The Buffalo Bore 140-gr Barnes load is moving faster, with more velocity, than the Black Hills 140-gr Barnes load, yet the Black Hills load was more accurate, and both CM40s seems to operate a bit smoother with the Black Hills load. Oh, to be sure, there was nothing wrong with the Buffalo Bore 140-gr Barnes load. I use this one a lot, but the CM40s liked the Black Hills load a little better. None of the loads tested exceeded 4-inches at 15-yards, so long as I did my part.

I will say, the CM40 does have quite a bit of recoil, and you must really have a firm grip on the gun at all times; if you limp wrist the gun, you will have malfunctions– either expended rounds won’t fully eject or the next round in the mag won’t fully chamber. This is a training issue. The gun recoils a lot, so make sure you have a firm hold on the gun. I intentionally held both guns a bit loose in my hand when firing as a test, and sure enough they would malfunction. While holding the guns firmly, I had no problems.

Blackhawk Productssent me their Leather Compact Askins belt holster to carry the CM40 in, and this baby is just made for the CM40 and other similar sized Kahr’s. The gun rides high and tight to your side. I also requested one of their ankle holsters, but it is on back order. I would like to carry the CM40 as a back-up gun to whatever my main gun is, and an ankle holster is the way to go. However, I’d have no problem carrying a CM40 in the Blackhawk Askins belt holster with at least one spare mag and probably two as my one and only self-defense handgun.

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If you’re new to handgunning and would like to carry the CM40, I would steer you to their CM9. It’s the same gun in 9mm; it is much easier to control, especially in rapid-fire. The CM40 demands a strong and firm grip, and it really does recoil quite a bit. Without a lot of practice, you might encounter some malfunctions, which is something you don’t want or need in a life or death showdown. So, go with the CM9 if you find the recoil prohibitive in the .40S&W caliber. With a good JHP bullet, the 9mm will get the job done, and in the CM9 you have 6-rds in the mag instead of just 5-rds, like the CM40 carries.

I don’t know that I’d care to have any other sub-compact carry gun smaller than the CM40. The CM40 recoils more than enough for my liking, and besides if you go smaller or lighter, there is all that much more chance you’ll have more malfunctions and recoil will really turn you off. However, if you can handle the recoil in a CM40, then by all means get your hands on one. It is one potent self-defense pistol. You can usually find the CM40 for under $400 in my neck of the woods, and that’s quite a bargain for such a high-class handgun that is easy to conceal.

– Senior Product Review Editor, Pat Cascio

Recipe of the Week: Oriental Chicken Salad, by L.H.

It’s August, and it’s too hot to cook, isn’t it?! Here is a lovely cooling main dish salad, adapted with thanks from my old 1988 Betty Crocker Cookbook. I’ve been making this salad for so many years that the old cookbook automatically opens to this recipe’s page.

Note: Our preferred source of chicken for this recipe is to throw a few extra pieces on the grill when grilling, then throwing them in a ziploc in the freezer ready to be used for it. A can (14 oz.) of chicken is an easy alternative, when time is short. Use whatever works best for you. The amount of chicken you use is not critical to the recipe, nor are the salad ingredients. Use whatever salad fixin’s you have around that your family likes (though I don’t recommend tomatoes in this.) I always double this for a family-sized dinner. You’re assured to have enough for everyone’s taste, and if there’s leftovers, well, the stuff is delicious. It’s easily used for later salads.

Ingredients:

For Ginger Dressing-

  • scant 1/3 c. vegetable oil
  • 2 Tbs. sesame oil
  • 1/4 c. white wine vinegar
  • 1 Tbs. sugar
  • 2 tsp. soy sauce
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 tsp. pepper
  • 1/2 tsp. ground ginger

For Salad-

  • 4 c. or so favorite lettuce
  • 1 1/2 – 3 c. cut-up cooked chicken or turkey (prefer grilled chicken)
  • 1 large carrot, shredded (about 1/2 c.)
  • 1 bunch green onions, with tops, sliced (about 1/3 c.)
  • 1 tbs. toasted sesame seeds
  • 2-3 c. favorite chow mein noodles

Directions

  1. Important Note: Prepare ginger dressing at least 2 hours ahead of serving time.
  2. In a shaker container, pour sesame oil into vegetable oil, then add remaining dressing ingredients. Shake well and chill in the refrigerator for at least two hours.
  3. For salad, combine lettuce, chicken, carrot, and green onions in a large bowl; toss.
  4. Sprinkle sesame seeds over salad.
  5. Serve salad over beds of chow mein noodles, and pass the ginger dressing to taste.
  6. Makes 6 servings.

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!

Letter Re: Scot’s Product Review: Federal Ammunition

Scot,

Great article on the 7.62. I have found a great alternative to the over 1k price tag. I just use a SOTA Arms 7.62 upper on my AR lower, and it’s been working out great. The price was $450, and I use ASC 20 round mags. These fit in the old ALICE mag pouches real well. I have a “battle rattle” set up just for this rifle. I included the links for you to check out. Again, great article. – G.S.

Economics and Investing:

Gerald Celente: A Stock Market Crash Will Happen By The End Of 2015

HJL adds: While I hear increasing warnings about this impending event, don’t discount the ability of TPTB to kick the can down the road just a little bit more, perhaps until after the election cycle of 2016.

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“Bear Markets Are Driven By Fear, And Fear Has Taken Over Many European Markets. Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late To Get Out.”

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The Price Of ‘C’ In China

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Don’t Put All Your (Nest) Eggs in One Basket

Odds ‘n Sods:

Municipal Office Set on Fire, Trucks Looted in Western Venezuela – B.B.

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Do You Have Change for a Bowie? The Advent of Artisanal Cash – JBG

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How Facebook Tracks Messages and Photos For Crime, Reports to Police – D.S.

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I described this scenario in one of my books, though it’s not a hard prediction to make. The danger of over-gadgeting your rifle – Mike Williamson, SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large

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America Divided – Blacks won’t rebuke Farrakhan terror threats – MVR

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“It is not from the benevolence of the butcher, the brewer, or the baker, that we expect our dinner, but from regard to their own interest. We address ourselves, not to their humanity but to their self-love, and never talk to them of our own necessities but of their advantages. Nobody but a beggar chooses to depend chiefly upon the benevolence of his fellow citizens.” – Adam Smith

Notes for Sunday – August 09, 2015

9 August 1831was the birthday of James Paris Lee (August 9, 1831 – February 24, 1904). He was a Scottish-Canadian and later American inventor and arms designer, best known for inventing the bolt action that led to the Lee-Metford and Lee-Enfield series of rifles.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 60 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $10,000 worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three day course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less than one minute without the use of any tools, and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 20 Magpul pmags 30rd Magazines (a value of $300) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. (An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.),
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A Model 120 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $340 value),
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  10. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  4. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  6. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  7. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site, and
  10. Safecastle is providing a package of 10 Lifestraws (a $200 value).

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security, LLC,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Precision Rest (a $249 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 60 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Hypothermia: Prevention, Identification, and Treatment, by Stonecold

Hypothermia is a condition wherein the core body temperature drops from its “normal” temperature, with normal being between 97.7 and 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Some symptoms, in order of increasing seriousness, are cold extremities, mild shivering, mental confusion, muscle incoordination, severe shivering and shaking, combativeness, paradoxical undressing, and cardiac arrest. A drop in core body temperature of as little as three degrees can result in these symptoms and eventually lead to death.

Hypothermia should be a concern with anyone who lives in Western Washington, given our wet, temperate climate. Its prevention, identification, and treatment must be in the forefront of our minds while operating outdoors for periods longer than one hour; it is as important as proper hydration and nutrition. Hypothermia will not only decrease your individual readiness, it will also affect team readiness, as a team member with hypothermia will divert resources from the team’s operational capability. A five-person team can be rendered ineffective, if just one member becomes hypothermic.

This article will explore the prevention, identification, and treatment of hypothermia.

Prevention: Clothing

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. In Western Washington, staying dry is the best preventative. Staying active, fed, and hydrated are close seconds. In order to stay dry while operating outdoors, the proper clothing is essential. If you take nothing else from this article, take this: COTTON IS ROTTEN. Even in the summertime, cotton clothing can lead to hypothermia. Why is that?

Cotton is a hygroscopic fiber; this means it attracts water. Water will be wicked into the fibers to such an extent that a pair of blue jeans will absorb several times its own weight in water. Even without complete immersion, an entire cotton garment can become saturated. That water will then be held against the body. As water conducts heat better than air by several orders of magnitude, a greater amount of body heat will be transferred away from you into the wet garment and from there into the environment much faster than if you were dry. The hygroscopic nature of the fiber will prevent most evaporation from the garment, especially on a humid day.

Two sources of wet clothing exist: external and internal. External moisture is rain, snow, falling in a river, et cetera. Internal moisture is your own sweat. A waterproof outer layer is not sufficient itself; it must be paired with a base layer made of hydrophobic materials– material that does not absorb water– in order to move sweat away from your body and into the environment. Cotton clothing underneath a waterproof outer layer will not keep you dry and warm, even if your outer layer is a breathable water barrier; your sweat will saturate the cotton and keep it next to your body.

Your best defense against hypothermia in Western Washington outdoor operations will be wearing clothing made from wool and/or synthetic fibers. However, as most military field clothing is made from a blend of synthetic fibers (nylon, polyester, polypropylene, and para-aramid) and cotton, that will be the most common textile in use during our group’s field operations. Fortunately, many garments exist made from hydrophobic materials. Any moisture that is absorbed into the fabric is quickly migrated to the environment. Polyester, polypropylene, silk, and wool are examples of hydrophobic fabrics. When garments made from these fabrics are paired with a waterproof outer layer (breathable membrane is the best), you are 90% of the way to preventing hypothermia in Western Washington. Wool is nearly obsolete as an outdoor fabric, except to us old goats who still think man has yet to improve upon nature in that regard.

One can model their field clothing choice based upon the Army’s Extended Cold Weather Clothing System (ECWCS) concept. (The Marines’ equivalent is Mountain/Cold Weather Clothing System.) It consists of a polyester base layer, a polartec fleece mid-layer, and a breathable membrane outer layer. Of course, cost and availability may limit many of us, but we can use the above as a guideline. What follows is my personal advice on what clothing items you should wear in the field.

Clothing for Below 60 Degrees Fehrenheit

Anytime the ambient temperature may be below 60 degrees, or there is a good chance of precipitation, one should wear a base layer of thermal underwear, with full length sleeves and legs, that is made from polyester or polypropylene. One can find used thermals inexpensively at surplus stores; I often find complete sets of long sleeve tops and ankle-length bottoms for $10.00. Short sleeve tops and boxer shorts can be found for even less. Get the lightweight version first. Medium weight is available, but in my opinion it is too heavy for most applications in our local environment. You will need to experiment with the most comfortable combination, given the outside temp and activity level, but one should own at least one set in each length. Two or more of each set is preferred, so one can change into a clean, dry pair at the end of the day or after falling into a lake.

On your feet should be a pair of socks made of at least 80% wool with the balance made from synthetic fibers. Having several pair is a must. You may consider a lightweight base layer of a sock made from polypropylene to wear underneath the wool sock. Test out your socks with your boots before going into the field. I have found that I need boots ½ size larger than my shoe size to accommodate medium- to heavy-weight socks. As for the boots, unless it has not rained for several days, rubber boots are advised for around camp and on patrol, if they are comfortable enough. Leather boots that are waterproofed with beeswax and have a breathable, water-proof layer are ideal unless operating in a marshy environment. The Army and Marines now issue boots of a combined leather and nylon upper with a breathable membrane liner.

Clothing for Below 40 Degrees Fehrenheit

Anytime the ambient temperature may be below 40 degrees, I recommend adding a mid-weight Polartec™-style fleece, especially if your operations include sedentary activity, such as guard duty or LP/OP duty. One can use civilian versions in multiple colors, but earth tones are recommended for tactical/field operations. I usually do not recommend a mid-weight layer below your waist, unless you will be sedentary in sub-freezing temperature. However, your own experience will be your best guide. The key is to find the balance between too cold and too warm.

If you are sedentary and feel just right comfort-wise, remove a layer before becoming active. For example, if you are on guard duty or radio watch and then go on a patrol, remove your mid-weight layer before starting the patrol. Being slightly chilled at the beginning of a patrol or other activity is fine, because the activity will warm you up. If you have to hike several miles to your LP/OP, put your mid-weight top in your pack to don once you arrive at your destination.

Your outer layer should ideally be a breathable thin shell, such as Gore-Tex™, but cost and availability may limit you. In such case, your outer layer should be wool, or a hydrophic synthetic material such as nylon or polyester. A waterproof poncho is a less expensive alternative and can keep rain off of you and your gear. Most camouflage clothing can be obtained in a cotton blend with these synthetic fibers, but avoid 100% cotton except for warm dry areas. The cotton blend will still get wet but not as wet as 100% cotton and your base layer will continue to insulate you when wet.

As part of your outdoor ops clothing kit, one should have a fleece cap and gloves. A cap can be easily donned and doffed, depending on activity level to keep you comfortable. Gloves such as Mechanix™ or a similar make are made from synthetic, hydrophobic fibers.

A note about the flame-esistant Multicam™ or ACU clothing: Current issue is made from 65% rayon, which is a fiber made from cellulose (wood pulp). Rayon is a hygroscopic fiber like cotton. It breathes very well but will absorb water, like cotton, and even when dry provides minimal insulation. The balance of the blend is para-aramid (Kevlar™) and Nylon added for durability. Like cotton blend garments, it is not as absorbent as a 100% cotton garment, but it’s more absorbent than a 100% synthetic garment.

A further note about Gore-Tex™ and other waterproof, breathable membranes: These breathable membranes work when the relative humidity inside the garment is greater than outside. If the outer layer of the garment becomes saturated, the membrane will no longer be breathable. It will still be waterproof, but your sweat will dampen your clothing from the inside. Breathable membrane garments should not be washed with regular detergent, as the residue will cause water to absorb into the garment rather than bead off. Use Nikwax™ or similar product for use on breathable membrane garments. For caked on mud or dirt, allow it to dry then brush it off.

Following the above guidelines will help prevent most instances of hypothermia. Of course, it is not a 100% preventative. Should you become wet, it is still highly advisable to change into dry clothing and get something warm to eat and drink by the fire at base camp.

Letter Re: Zippo Lighters

HJL,

I’ve discovered that bicycle inner tube encased Zippo lighters fit nicely inside a used Tic-Tac plastic case with a little extra space for some tinder, spare wicks, and flints inside the lid. I store my extra flints inside coffee stir stick segments. The Tic-Tac case protects the lighter and provides an extra barrier to slow down the evaporation process. I’ve also used Naphtha in my Zippo while deployed. – RLH in Ohio

Economics and Investing:

The College Bubble 2.0: In just one year, loan debt is up nearly 30% …Half of young graduates are either unemployed or only working part-time… The massive increase in applicants with degrees, the value of college degrees is drastically falling

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The recent dips in the spot silver and gold markets are indicative of both manipulation in the global oil market and panicky investors in Europe shifting into U.S. dollar-denominated investments. (The investing outflows from Europe are pushing the U.S. Dollar up, and precious metals down.) With spot silver at around $14.70 per Troy ounce and gold at around $1,090, they are bargains. So, if you already have your beans and bullets squared away, then I strongly recommend diversifying into some pre-1965 circulated silver coins. This is an ideal time to buy silver. Do it NOW. If you wait until October, then you will probably be too late. – JWR

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Stocks are a ‘disaster waiting to happen’: Stockman – B.B.

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BANKERS THREAT: Global Exchanges Continue To Bleed Silver

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GMO founder Grantham says markets ‘ripe for major decline’ in 2016 – G.G

Notes for Saturday – August 08, 2015

8 August is the birthday of Terry Nation (8 August 1930 – 9 March 1997), who was a Welsh television writer and novelist. Nation wrote two series, Survivors and Blake’s 7, in the 1970s. Survivors was re-made a few years ago.

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Today, we present another entry for Round 60 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $10,000 worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three day course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. DRD Tactical is providing a 5.56 NATO QD Billet upper with a hammer forged, chromlined barrel and a hard case to go with your own AR lower. It will allow any standard AR type rifle to have quick change barrel, which can be assembled in less than one minute without the use of any tools, and a compact carry capability in a hard case or 3-day pack (an $1,100 value),
  4. Gun Mag Warehouse is providing 20 Magpul pmags 30rd Magazines (a value of $300) and a Gun Mag Warehouse T-Shirt. (An equivalent prize will be awarded for residents in states with magazine restrictions.),
  5. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  6. A Model 120 Series Solar Generator provided by Quantum Harvest LLC (a $340 value),
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  9. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate, and
  10. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. The Ark Institute is donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  4. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  6. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  7. A pre-selected assortment of military surplus gear from CJL Enterprize (a $300 value),
  8. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  9. RepackBox is providing a $300 gift certificate to their site, and
  10. Safecastle is providing a package of 10 Lifestraws (a $200 value).

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security, LLC,
  5. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  6. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit,
  7. Montie Gear is donating a Precision Rest (a $249 value), and
  8. Two 1,000-foot spools of full mil-spec U.S.-made 750 paracord (in-stock colors only) from www.TOUGHGRID.com (a $240 value).

Round 60 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Announcing the SurvivalBlog Limited Edition XL Voyager Knife!

I’m pleased to announce that after more than a year of development, Cold Steel has released the Limited Edition Rawles Voyager Extra Large (XL) folding knife. This knife was specially made to my own specifications. It features the new Carpenter CTS XHP steel for superior edge holding and corrosion resistance, a half-serrated tanto blade for practical versatility, a black diamond-like coating for low reflectivity, and an olive green Griv-Ex grip that won’t slip and that blends in to natural environments. Each knife comes with a right-hand pocket clip installed and a spare pocket clip for left-handers. It has an ambidextrous thumb stud for fast opening, and a time-proven Tri-Ad lock to keep it securely open, even in the most vigorous use.

voyager1

This is a massive folding knife. It has a 5.5″ blade and a 12.25″ overall length, with the blade open. The blade is a hefty 4 millimeters thick. But just beware that because of its large size that it is not legal for carry in all jurisdictions, so consult your state and local laws before ordering.

Carpenter CTS XHP steel is a fairly new steel alloy that combines the corrosion resistance of 440C stainless with the great edge holding of D2 Tool steel. Think of this new steel alloy as “the best of both worlds.” Like all other Cold Steel knives, it comes from the factory razor sharp and the knife has a lifetime warranty.

100% of Cold Steel President Lynn Thompson’s profits and 100% of my own profits are going to Christian charities. (My share has been assigned to Anchor of Hope Charities, which supports a well-established mission school in rural Zambia.)

Because this is a limited edition knife, they are expected to sell out in just a few months, and these won’t even make it to most Cold Steel dealers. So don’t wait to buy one in stores. Because this is one of Cold Steel’s first product offerings in the desirable Carpenter CTS XHP steel alloy, they are bound to be quite popular. Once they’ve sold out there will be no more of this model produced, so order yours today! – JWR

Our Experience Growing and Storing Our Own Food- Part 3, by Tennessean

Farming Equipment

Farming equipment is useful in various functions of gardening, particularly when growing a large garden for a family’s self-sustenance.

Mechanical Seeders

Two months ago we were on a UT field trip visit to a farm several counties northeast of us. I was extremely impressed with “Farmer Bob”. He demonstrated a Jang Clean Seeder. it actually worked! Two other push hand seeders we have tried have been about as useless as a screen door in a submarine. This gizmo is NOT inexpensive, but it does the job. We bought a fertilizer attachment, a row marker attachment, a rough soil furrow opener, and oddles of the seed rollers. One varies the seed distance by varying the gears on the front wheel and seeder roller and by the number of holes in the plastic seeder rollers. One may buy blank rollers and drill your own holes to suit. Johnny’s Seeds sells these.

Why is this important? Okay, consider doing this without a mechanical seeder. First, you go down the row with a Warren hoe and make a furrow. Then you make a second pass dropping the seed into the furrow. Then, you make a third pass with the hoe to cover the seed, and then a fourth pass to side dress the row with fertilizer. Why not save time and effort and do all this in one pass?

Cultivation

Farmer Bob uses a BCS walk-behind tractor, which can be found at BCSTractors.com. They sell one diesel engine model. Okay, the thing about this gizmo is that the PTO shaft coming out at the rear is the complete attachment point for things like a PTO-powered rototiller. Why is this important? Well, after you struggle putting a 3-point hitch Category 1 PTO implement on a tractor, you will appreciate the ease with which one may change implements on a BCS tractor.

We have a Kubota B7510 24 hp diesel Category 1 tractor, turning plow, disc harrow, drag harrow, a 48” wide PTO 3 pt hitch KingKutterII rototiller, a five foot bush hog, a rear 3pt hitch grader adjustable angle grader blade for perfecting the terraces, a rock and root rake, a “potato plow” (aka a middle buster), a subsoiler, and 3 pt PTO post hole digger. I suggest killing all vegetation first with Round Up and waiting a week or two before tearing up new soil. We DO use Round Up, or actually its generic equivalent with added detergent, to kill weeds, but we would never grow GMO cultivars.

Here is my take on cultivation with a tractor: Forget the turning plow and disc harrow. Tear up the sod and soil with a subsoiler, which is a chisel plow 2” wide that goes down 16” into the soil. This is far better than a turning plow that only goes down 6-8”, as it brings up nutrients in the subsoil and allows water to penetrate deeply into the soil. In our case (with rocks in the soil) the subsoiler tends not to shatter the rocks into a zillion pieces parts, as does a turning plow. After picking up the rocks, use a PTO 3 pt hitch rototiller to turn the clods into a nice seed bed. For broadcast seeds (e.g. winter cover crops, turnips, and the like) a drag harrow will get the small seeds mixed up into the ground.

Saving the Harvest

There are many way of storing various types of food grown in the garden. I’ll share with you how we save our harvest.

Dehydrating Foods

We have four Excalibur dehydrators. Dried food is placed in canning jars and the air is pumped out with a “Pump ‘N Seal” gizmo. We then put a one square-inch piece of aluminum foil duct tape on top of the seal valve. Otherwise, you may discover that mice will chew up the small seal valve thinking thereby they can get to the food.

There are three advantages of dehydrating:

  1. It takes up far less shelf space,
  2. The shelf life is much longer, and
  3. If the jars freeze, no damage is done.

We are especially fond of dehydrated tomatoes and peppers. These go in the root cellar. Dried peas, wheat, dry beans, and corn are stored in Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers added before sealing. (I shop www.beprepared.com for both bags and oxygen absorbers.) The Mylar bags are stored in a 5-gallon plastic bucket with a Gamma Seal lid, which I purchase from sportsmansguide.com.

Canning Foods

Safe canning is an exercise in applied microbiology. If (and only If) the pH of the food is below 4.5 is it safe to use a boiling water bath canner, as Clostridium botulini (an obligate anerobic primitive bacteria) can only grow (and produce the deadly toxin) if the pH is above 4.5. These bacteria form spores that are not killed in a boiling water bath canner. A considerably higher temperature is required, and this is only possible with a pressure canner. As an aside, let me point out that boiling any canned food in an OPEN pot for fifteen minutes will denature (inactivate) the protein toxin produced by this bacteria. A caution here: many new tomato cultivars are low acid, and the pH resulting may well be above 5.0. So, buy thyself some pH paper at an aquarium store to be sure. This is one reason we add Fruit Fresh to tomatoes to be canned. Both the citric acid and the Vitamin C lower the pH.

We have three All American pressure canners, which are made in Wisconsin and have a metal to metal seal. We also have a huge stash of canning jars and lids. We can tomatoes, apples, pears, peaches, soups, green beans, jams, and jellies. We add Fruit Fresh to the tomatoes, apples, jams, and jellies to increase the Vitamin C content. The Ball torque wrench for exactly tightening the bands on the lids prior to canning is a must. Consider the Tattler reusable canning seals. It is important to keep the pressure as steady as possible with a pressure canner; otherwise, the lids may not seal. It is also important to let the pressure canner cool down all by itself. Therefore, do not hurry things up by placing a fan to blow air on the canner, or you are liable to have seal failures. Many county agents provide a service to check the gauge on a pressure canner. Buy at least one spare gauge. DO NOT use a “steam” canner, which is patently unsafe. In a boiling water bath canner, the water must cover the tops of the jars.

It is CRITICAL to exactly follow the directions in the Ball Blue Book for canning anything. In March of 2015, several folks at a church supper in Ohio were permanently injured eating potato salad from improperly canned potatoes. Just like in reloading ammunition, the failure to exactly follow the directions can lead to death. Let me note in passing that NO food bank will take home-canned foods, and these are very unlikely to be confiscated to give to other folks.

Canning Pasta Sauce and Soups with Tomatoes

Here is the way to do it. Get thyself a Ninja blender. Cut up the tomatoes and removing the clear liquid and the seeds (diverticulitis issues). Place what remains in the Ninja blender with oregano and basil leaves. Liquify this completely. Okay, there will be very small bits of tomato skin there. Who cares? After all, you know what was (and was not) sprayed on the tomatoes. Sauté diced onions, peppers, and garlic in a stock pot (that has a copper layer on the bottom of the pot); add the blended tomatoes. Can this as “stewed tomatoes” per the Ball Blue Book recipe. Add ½ can of Fruit Fresh to each 18 pints of mix.

The Importance of a Root Cellar

We’ve a root cellar with about 118 cubic feet total gross space. It has its own 12 VDC power system with PV panels, a marine battery, and LED lighting. We store dehydrated tomatoes and onions, potatoes, seeds, apples, cabbage, and so forth in it. It is sufficiently insulated so that in the dead of winter the interior temperature is above freezing. The cellar is contained by ½ of an old diesel tank whose exterior was coated with Rust Oleum paint and then a rubberized roofing compound. it’s totally mouse and water proof. So far, it’s been bear proof with its extremely sturdy door. Yes, we have a lot of black bears around us.

Equipment for Shelling Vegetables

Corn. We have an old timey manual crank cast iron corn sheller. I’ve just bought another. I’m a big believer in spares for critical tools. Try shelling dry field dent corn by hand for several hours, and you will understand the need for this device.

Peas. One very real advantage of field peas is their fragile pod when dried. A small motorized dry field pea pod sheller is available at www.peasheller.com. This is made in Moultrie Georgia.

Homemade Dryer for Corn/Peas/Beans/Peanuts. I designed and constructed a bulk corn/pea/bean dryer from plywood, a 20” box fan, and four 100-watt light bulbs to heat the incoming air. We first dry the shucked corn on the cob. Shelling damp corn does not work. Once dry, we shell and then dry the kernels in the same dryer. Unless well dried, a toxic fungus grows on the shelled corn. This dryer is also used to dry field pea pods prior to mechanical shelling. This is made with two boxes 14” high and large enough to accommodate the fan. The lower box contains the 20” box fan and the four 100 watt light bulbs placed above the fan. With the fan on medium these warm up the ambient air about 10 degrees F. The second box just sits on top of the first box. At Home Depot I bought eight ¼ steel rods and inserted these into the bottom edge of the upper box, horizontally, to provide a strong open support for the aluminum screen wire that sits on top of these eight rods. Such an apparatus will be critical for drying peanuts. Peanuts are very susceptible to the fungus that produces aflatoxin.

Permaculture

Consider fruit trees. Please know that many soils are deficient in boron, so sprinkle one ounce of borax every 20 square feet around each tree the first year you see blossoms. Please note that more is NOT better, and only add this micronutrient to fruit trees, as it is toxic to most other plants. In our area, cedar apple rust is a major issue along with fire blight. The former is a basidiomycete fungus that has as alternate hosts apple leaves and eastern red cedar trees. Fire blight is a bacterial disease that is somewhat controllable by spraying the antibiotic streptomycin on the leaves. It’s far better to choose cultivars that are resistant to these two microbes. We will now only buy the Liberty and Freedom apple cultivars. We also have four sets of M-111 semi-dwarfing apple rootstock plants growing. It turns out the choice of rootstock can confer a lot of disease resistance to the grafted apple tree. Thus, we will be able to produce our own semi-dwarf grafted trees that may become a valuable home business. Consider the new “Green Jade” hybrid (European & Asian) pear cultivar with a lot of disease resistance. Consider hazelnut trees as a windbreak. Consider Osage orange trees as a fence to keep out both two-legged and four-legged herbivores. Look up this on wikipedia. It’s totally vicious LONG thorns that can actually puncture a tractor tire. Consider the new “Reliance” disease-resistant grape vine cultivar developed at the University of Arkansas. We have had great success with the “Ontario” grape vine cultivar. So far, it has been the most vigorous grape vine we’ve grown.

We grow asparagus from seeds. Sure, it takes longer to get a plant large enough to be harvested, but the cost of the seeds is quite small compared to the cost of really good (as opposed to mostly rotten) asparagus “crowns.” I find that the local rabbits have no interest in asparagus spears, and I see almost no insect problems. I’ve read that good practice is to cut and burn all the dead foliage in winter to kill any over wintering asparagus leaf beetles. I place a commercial tomato cage over each plant to keep the stalks from getting bent over by winds. Alternatively, one could grow these on the west side of a fence, as I did decades ago.

Operational Security

None of our veggie garden or fruit orchard is visible from any public road. Our plot is at the end of a one-way gravel road. We have a VERY sturdy gate at our boundary. The plot is visible from only two houses. Along the two property lines with trees we encourage the growth of greenbriar vines, blackberry vines, and multiflora rose bush vines. From the barn attic window we can observe the entire garden plot without being observed. If need be, we will rotate guard duty in the barn attic. We will have infrared game cameras hidden, pointing toward the garden to record any visitors with a date and time stamp. Only a few close neighbors know of our farm.