Hello James Wesley,
I have a couple of questions for Matt M. My knowledge of diesel engines is limited. However, I am researching for my own G.O.O.D. vehicle as well, and following your advice on having vehicles with different fuel systems I am concentrating diesel light trucks for my requirement. Matt describes taking an “expedition” route instead of regular roads under certain conditions. He also states that with his extra fuel tank that he has a “2,000 mile range”.
My questions to Matt are:
Is the fuel range based on “expedition” conditions, or road conditions?
Does diesel mileage vary with the season? In a past life (living in a northern state) I owned a gasoline engine 1977 GMC 4×4 Suburban that got 14 mpg summer and 7 mpg winter. I am wondering if diesel engines are affected by the cold as well.
Thanks, – Chris G. in Wisconsin
Sir:
I just wanted to mention a couple practical points in consideration of Matt M’s excellent G.O.O.D. Vehicle article.
He mentions a 98 gallon auxiliary tank, and then a 2,000 mile range for his 99 Ford F350. 2,000 miles / 98 gallons is assuming a 20 mpg average for those miles and I believe that is overly optimistic for “off-road” expedition type travel. If most of the travel is 45 mph, dirt road type driving I think he could easily make that type of mpg. But for true off-road, fields, tight mountain trails, power and gas line right-of-ways, I am guessing he will see speeds of 5-10 mph at best.
In my experience, your mpg drops off considerably at those speeds and it is quite possible he will see single digit mph on his 400 mile trek. The best thing to confirm your actual off-road mileage is to take a trip and measure your actual mileage in those conditions!
Another couple of tools that he should consider, is bolt cutters, chainsaw(s), or better yet, old fashioned 1-2 man bow saws for a more stealthy solution to downed trees, etc blocking the path. Another valuable off-road tool is the Hi-Lift jack, mine is cast iron, 60” model that can also serve as a “winch” and many other uses!
If you look at Google Earth, you can actually print out some excellent maps of your own personal off-road G.O.O.D. egress! Look for power lines, gas lines, etc that cut through property that is not normally traveled by vehicles!! HOWEVER, it is highly illegal to actually scout ahead and drive down those trails as they are mostly private property that the utility companies have access to.
Yes, you will see many off-road type vehicles illegally traveling down them now, but I can assure you a hefty fine / and unwanted attention from the local PD is a possibility!! Not to mention irate land owners. But, if the SHTF, well I suspect this will be a GOOD backup plan.
I mention bolt/wire cutters for crossing fences, et cetera off-road in the above situation. You may want to consider a “good neighbor” system where you actually repair the damage you are doing. They will be even more upset with you if their livestock wanders out your new G.O.O.D. hole that you cut in their fence.
James:
Matt needs to be sure that he had identified every sensor in the vehicle and that he knows how to replace them and can do it himself with the tools he is likely to have on hand. There are a lot of sensors in vehicles today and
some are very difficult to get to. I am not familiar with his Fords, but I have seen Chevies where you need to lift the engine to reach a crankshaft sensor and the vehicle was DOA without it operational. – Thomas G.
Mr. Editor:
I believe the 1999 Ford F350 is protected by Ford’s “Securi-lock” or PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System). The key is interrogated by a transponder in the column when the ignition switch is turned to the “Start” position. If that key’s code is not programmed in to one of 8 or more slots (2 master, 6+ authorized users), the vehicle will turn over, but won’t start. This will cause the “Theft” light on the dash to flash as the only indication as to why there is a “no-start”. To compound the issue, the PATS module can be part of the PCM, the dash cluster or a separate box.
Ideally, the PCM, IDM, etc. will be installed and tested BEFORE they are packed away, but I expect the PCM could be a major issue. If the PCM has built in PATS, only the keys that the vehicle was purchased with (or programmed for, more on that later) will work.
If the PATS is in the dash or a separate module, you will be able to swap out the PCM with little or no issue, but now you have a bigger problem – EMP and the PATS module – secure a replacement (wherever it may be) and follow the remaining steps.
If the vehicle has the PATS built in to the PCM, hopefully it is a version that allows for user programming needing only one or more master keys. If this is the case, the Ford Service Manual (or any Internet Search Engine) will produce the procedures to program new keys for the original PCM.
Should you be lucky enough to have the original keys that came WITH the PCM, you can purchase keys that can be cut to match your column WITHOUT the transponder, and attach the old key head to the new key with a small ring or zip-tie. This will keep the “chip” close enough to the sensor “halo” to read during programming. You can use these make-shift master keys to program the PROPER keys for daily use. While not ideal, it is cheap!
If you do not have the original keys for the PCM, it will need to be reflashed by a Ford Service Center for the new keys (2 masters).
Have the technician erase all keys and start from scratch, this will eliminate the possibility that someone (previous owner, other dealer) has a back up or “cloned” key. If you do the “self-service” procedures in the Service Manual, it will force the “Theft” light to flash once for each key programmed – if there are more flashes than you have keys, someone has programmed a spare key! There is no way to delete additional keys without the specific dealer tools.
I recommend testing all keys to ensure they unlock all doors/compartments, and unlock the steering column BEFORE flashing. Any local locksmith can cut the keys, but you need to follow the manufacturers instructions for programming.
For each vehicle/PCM combination, I recommend 4 keys.
– Two Master keys: which get zip-tied together and stored in a safe place, marked with the PCM and vehicle info (for uses a 4 digit code to ID the PCM, like BAE2, XBT1, etc). This way, if either of the regular use keys are lost, the masters can be used to program additional keys.
– Two additional keys become the everyday keys and these can be replaced as needed for little cost.
If you do not have the “Master” keys for a vehicle (or spare PCM), this is a “dealer only” procedure that is bound to cost hundreds of dollars.
Remember, never use the master keys for everyday use, not only can someone use them to add a key to your vehicle, but if the key is lost, stolen or broken, it will make the repair dealer only instead of DITY.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, – DZF