(Continued from Part 1.)
Aftermarket Saw Parts
While original equipment is preferable, because of the dominance of Asian manufacturing, name-brand components are now often made in Asia and no longer in the country from where brands go their start. This is a sad fact. A more happy fact is the increasing quality of the aftermarket parts. While somewhat inconsistent in quality, the aftermarket parts are also sold in the U.S. under different brand names. Thus, they have raised the bar of the quality needed to compete in the aftermarket.
The quality of Chinese parts in certain sectors has improved. And I have observed over the past several years that aftermarket chainsaw carburetors are used original manufacturer saws as “original” equipment. In other words, we can pay more for the assurance of good quality, yet the reality is that many of these parts are made in the same factories in Asia. So we are stuck with a choice that is not really a choice, but only a higher price for seeing the brand name on the box.
Since we must develop a deep supply of critical parts, the cost of OEM parts are often prohibitive. This concern caused me to test these aftermarket parts before I could recommend any of them for stockpiling. However, when it comes to parts for the engine itself, I cannot recommend these parts because I have not tested them. The most often needed parts that keep a saw running are not internal engine parts. But these aftermarket parts are generally speaking much better quality than they once were.
It is only sensible to standardize with either of the two most popular brands: Husqvarna or Stihl. But whatever the brand, it is wise to not buy the latest generation, but an earlier generation — just prior to the latest. Why? Because that is where the largest pool of new and used parts exists. And while the latest model of the most popular brands tends to sell at higher prices, the previous generation has a mature aftermarket supply that is price-competitive and supplied in depth. These conditions are typical of most products that follow a similar life cycle. Near the end of the model’s life cycle, the market is saturated and prices are falling relative to the next or newest generation.
Choosing the Right-Sized chainSaw
It is not only the brand we should standardize with, but also the model. It would be best if the model of the saw under consideration is the most versatile. While I have felled many very large pines with a saw with only a 12-inch bar intended for ‘limbing’ or trimming, it is not the best choice as an all-around saw. In fact, using the wrong-sized saw for a particular job can be more dangerous. Saws that are not too large or too small, not too heavy and not too light are the better choices for a solid “all-around use” saw.
There is a relationship between the cubic displacement of the chainsaw’s motor and power of the saw and the width of the chains cutting teeth and the length of the bar and the chain itself. It is a balancing act between the power of saw’s engine and how large of a cut that can be made. The weight of the saw is also a part of the equation. If the saw’s engine can not move the chain through the material to be cut, then it is underpowered. To make a basic decision about how much saw we actually need only the length of the bar needs to be considered. This is because the major chainsaw makers generally do a good job of matching bar length to engine displacement. It may sound oversimplistic, but saws can be categorized into three groups: small, medium, and large.
If you are tall and muscular and can handle a larger saw with a 24-inch or longer bar then you are likely using a model intended for a professional. This category of saw is generally more rugged in construction and more powerful and more time-efficient since these saws cut faster and can handle larger trees. The longer bar and chain requires a more powerful engine. This is usually the longest and heaviest, saw a non-professional can handle. Any saw larger than that could be too much saw for most people unless they are in good enough physical shape to run one long enough to get the job done or some appreciable length of time.
It can be dangerous if the saw is so heavy that it causes the user to become quickly fatigued. If you are older then a smaller and lighter weight saw with a 12, 14, or 16 inch bar is a better choice for the sake of safety and one’s ability to handle the saw. For most tasks and for most people, an 18-inch to 20-inch bar is usually the best choice. It is a good all-around saw for most work that can safely be handled and operated by most of the family. For the sake of “redundant redundancy”, it would be best to have all the primary saws in our inventory be the same model and use the same bar length bar. Once we have at least three of those models then a larger or smaller saw could be added to speed up the work for certain tasks or as a lighter-weight saw for smaller family members. For example, say that you standardize on Stihl saws with 18-inch bars. After you have bought three of those with all interchangeable parts, then your fourth saw should probably be a smaller-engine saw with a 12-inch bar.
Selecting the Correct Chain
There are advantages to the various types of chains that can be used. These various types of chain are primarily a topic for those in the wood-cutting business. Full chisel teeth are indeed faster cutting, but are best reserved for professionals who know how to avoid quickly dulling this chain. Then there is ‘skip chain’, again a specialty chain that is best reserved for the professionals. The best type of chain is the semi-chisel type as it is easier to sharpen and is less prone to quickly losing its ability to cut. It is smoother and slower to cut relative to the full chisel type, but overall this type is the most practical.
Purchase more replacement chains for smaller-sized saws since the chain must cut the same amount of wood as a longer chain on a larger saw. If I am using a small 12-inch to 16-inch bar, then I will want 4 to 5 sets of replacement chain for each year of operation. If using a saw with an 18-inch to 20-inch bar, less chain is needed, perhaps 3 to 4 sets would be adequate. If the saw has a 24-inch bar, then 2 to 3 chains is a good start. I would rather err on the safe side and have more chains than needed.
If we can find a bargain on saw chain, then we can keep the saw operational longer. While I cringed at the prospect of buying cheap Chinese chain, I did extensive testing of several inexpensive brands and found it to hold up well, and cut well. EBay is a good source of this inexpensive Chinese chain or other chain made in Asia. I did not test all of the offerings, but only few. This chain is half the price of bulk chain available a saw shops and one-third the price of brand named chain. Take note that New Old Stock (NOS) brand-name saw chain can also be purchased on eBay, at significant discounts.
When purchasing replacement chain, use the brand name chain part number to make sure that the correct chain is being purchased. Part numbers are often used by major suppliers that provide a chart that will help convert the OEM part number to the part number used by the aftermarket manufacturer. However, if no conversion chart for parts numbers is provided, then using the same specifications of the OEM chain that includes the chain pitch, gauge, number of drive links, and the type, chiseled, or semi-chiseled teeth, we can reliably select the correct replacement chain.
Quality Files
Without the correct files and enough of these files, our investment in our chainsaw will quickly be diminished in value, and certainly in utility. It is better to have too many than too few files. Files will make a great barter item, if you find you have too many. Without the correctly-sized round file, the saw chain will quickly lose its sharp edge, and the chain will no longer be able to cut wood. No file = no woodpile. A file should be used to dress up the cutting teeth after every tank of fuel consumed. A sharp chain means we use less fuel, use less bar oil, and it requires less time and effort to cut.
There are three main gauges of chain that each require a different size file. To make it simple, I would have one file for each chain set in my inventory. A fresh and sharp file makes sharpening a chain often quicker and easier and one likes to sharpen chains.
We must also learn how to use this file properly. Otherwise, we will reduce the life of the chain and make it harder to cut. Chain sharpening techniques are beyond the scope of this article. If you are uncertain how to use a file, then get a file guide. The best ones will set the angle and pitch of the file cut. Eventually, you can do this ‘free hand’. But if the chain is well worn and the teeth are inconsistent, then using a file guide or better yet a chain sharpening jig will correct the out-of-specification chain and make it cut like new.
(To be continued tomorrow, in Part 3.)