Hi Jim,
I’ve restored older cars as a hobby for about 24 years (Ford is my preference. I was delighted to see [late 1960s vintage] Broncos, F250s and Mustangs in your novel “Patriots”.) I have a suggestion for cleaning older gas cans that works very well for me. Most recently I dealt with a 50,000 mile 1969 Buick Riviera. [JWR Adds: Ah, the roar of a 454! I once owned a 1970 Buick Electra 225. What a ride.] The deceased prior owner had stored the car indoors since 1983. The gas tank was full of vile liquid that at one time had been leaded gasoline.
After draining and removing the tank (I disposed of the fluid properly) I was able to remove the gas gauge sending unit and peer inside. Initially, it looked like the tank had rusted, but it was simply a heavy coating of dark orange varnish. I tried a few different chemicals and even steam cleaning to attempt to remove the varnish but to no avail.
I use Berryman Chem-Dip in a 5 gallon pail to soak/clean disassembled automotive carburetors prior to rebuilding them.
This fluid is some nasty stuff (wear chem resistant gloves!), but it works. (However, I can’t speak for their [special] Kalifornia kompliant formula). It came to me that what was in the gas tank was the same residue in a dirty carburetor, just in greater quantity. My Chem-Dip pail was a little low and needed replenishing anyway. I bought two gallons of Chem-Dip replenisher (Berryman part no. 0901, about $15 a gallon in my area) and poured it in the Buick’s gas tank. I sloshed the Chem-Dip around, then let the tank sit on one side, sloshed it again, let it sit on another side, until I had soaked the entire inside surface of the tank. After two days of soaking/sloshing I drained the tank back into the original cans, filtering the fluid through a fine metal screen. I let the tank dry, then used a pressure washer for a final cleaning, drained the water, then used a heat gun on the outside of the tank to expedite drying time. [JWR Adds: Use extreme caution when applying heat to a gas can or to any part of an automobile fuel system!] The end result was a beautiful (to a mechanic, anyway) shiny factory galvanized internal tank surface with only a hint of surface rust. Later, I used the cans to replenish my 5 gallon pail. My point is I believe this technique would work just as well with a military gas can. If the Chem-Dip is filtered it can be used again – it doesn’t seem to lose its cleaning strength for some time. In a survival scenario, I believe Chem-Dip will even have some significant value in bringing some older pre-1980 non-computer [presumably EMP impervious] vehicles back to operational service.
I heartily agree with SC’s assessment of the durability of the German gas cans. I secured a quantity of the German cans from SOG International about seven years ago, just prior to Y2K. The cans had already been cleaned, given a rust preventative/chemical resistant internal coating (to resist rusting from condensation of water in the air trapped in the can) and then painted. They’ve held my storage fuel on many trips, the internal chemical coating is still adhering, no leaks. (The weak point would be the rubber cap seal – replacements available from Major Surplus and Survival and they have endured outside storage in the hot southeastern Texas climate very well. I keep them as full as possible to minimize condensation. (It is very humid where I live.)
I’ve seen some similar, if not identical, Euro military gas cans at currently reasonable prices. The lowest price is at Major Surplus and Survival (2 can limit? – can’t be sold in Kalifornia.) The Sportsman’s Guide has Swiss cans that are a little higher and no apparent limit on quantity. Though I don’t think the cans currently being offered have an internal protective coating, one could be added after they were cleaned out, like this product:
Kind Regards, – M. Artixerxes
James:
Regarding gas cans, I purchased a number of [used] US mil-spec cans and had them cleaned and “red lined” at a radiator shop. The red lining would keep the inside of the cans from rusting. They also replaced the rubber seals on the caps with ones made out of inner tubes and they worked fine. The process was expensive ($20 per can), but they are still in very good shape some 15 years later. – Ron A.