(Continued from Part 2.)
Slings
Bottom line, a sling is a necessary part of the rifle. But it should be detachable, to suit particular situations. For those on a budget, Com-Bloc rifle sling will suffice. These are inexpensive, ruggedly built, and with the right swivels work on just about any rifle. If you can do better, then please do. But when building up an arsenal I would economize where possible so that the budget can buy more spare magazines, replacement parts, and ammo. Gucci is nice, but it saps precious funds away from more important items we might be willing to die for later.
Here is some wisdom from Steve A., from his SurvivalBlog aricle Thoughts on a General Purpose AR-15 Rifle – Part 2:
“The importance and utility of a sling is easily overlooked. A basic, adjustable-length two-point sling that attaches to the front and rear of the rifle has stood the test of time. While it is slightly less versatile than a multi-point sling it is simpler, does not get in the way as much, and is quite functional. A quick-release sling swivel on the front will allow you to quickly separate the upper and lower for cleaning.
Being able to sling your rifle safely will allow you to do many tasks without losing contact with the rifle when you set it down somewhere. A slim front-hand guard that uses the M-LOC system of fasteners will allow you to attach a sling at any point. The one used here is light and allows the barrel to float, so sling tension does not then affect the point of aim. A “hasty” sling is a surprisingly good way to help stabilize the rifle during firing.”
Ammunition
At a minimum store 2,000 rounds per rifle, and another 500 rounds for training. There is almost no way to have too much unless, of course, you do not have enough food stored. More is better and currently, ammunition is approaching the lowest prices seen in years. However, you’ll also need cleaning supplies, CLP (Cleaner Lubricant, and Protectant Protect), bore solvents (Hoppes #9 or Sweets 7.62), an iron sight adjustment tool, cleaning rod, brushes, pipe cleaners, spare springs and pins, a spare ejector, spare bolt carrier group, and so forth. If someone is not able to repair the rifle themselves, then they should have a whole replacement rifle as a spare.
Because 5.56 NATO is a relatively weak round, especially when using FMJ, I would choose the 20 inch barrel with the 7:1 twist rate for all occasions and all ammunition types. If I could not afford to buy 75/77 expanding and fragment OTM ammunition, then I would still prefer the 20-inch barrel and use the inexpensive and common 55-grain ball (FMJ) ammunition. Given the tests that I’ve seen using various test mediums when a 20-inch barrel is used, it always does the most damage. FMJ is the best choice for reliability in all rifles and for penetrating through cover and concealment.
Often, 5.56 ball cannot penetrate cover (or body armor) and stop a fight. This is why M855 and now the new and improved M855A1 were created. The latter is still unobtainium for the general public. Standard M855 62-grain is a serious improvement over 55-grain FMJ. Currently, this is a good point in market history to top off your ammunition. The price is right and not likely to go much lower. If faced with a steel barrier, the higher the velocity of a round and the harder the projectile, the better it will penetrate.
Standard 55-grain M193 FMJ fired with a muzzle velocity of 3,100 fps will inside of 50 yards penetrate Level 3 body armor. Projectile mass, its sectional density, and its construction are secondary factors that contribute to penetrating Level 3 armor. (Not to be confused with modern Level 3 plus). Velocity is the primary factor and determinor. Projectile hardness is secondary — the factor that further enhances the potential to penetrate thick armor at lower threshold velocities.
A prime example and still the military standard is M2AP armor piercing .30-06 black-tipped ammunition that uses a molybdenum or tungsten penetrating core in 165 grain .30 caliber bullet at a muzzle velocity of only 2,750 fps. (For rifles in 7.62 NATO, look up M80A1.) See the testing performed here.
In the future M855A1 might become available at premium prices. But some of the benefits of armor-piercing ammunition can be had a low cost when using a combination of M193 ball fired from a 20 inch AR-15 barrel. I expect body armor to be widely used in the future and for good and not-so-good reasons.
Prices for loaded M2AP .3-06 ammunition and for pulled M2AP projectiles (suitable for handlaoding in 7.62 NATO and .308 Winchester rifles) are now sky high and are best reserved for ‘elephant hunting’ or Terminator hunting, whichever comes first. But we can approach this capability in an inexpensive AR with a 20-inch barrel. Imagine if you will, using M855A1 where available what it might perform on a steel target if fired at maximum pressures and velocities from a 20-inch or longer barrel. To stimulate the imagination let’s watch this demonstration video: M855A1 vs M855 vs SS109 vs XM193: Crazy Results on Steel
Back to Basics, Open Sights
Reportedly, Ukrainian soldiers spend their personal funds to acquire better gear including optics. While we have the luxury of many optics to choose from, we currently have an advantage the average Ukrainian solder could only dream of. However, if there had been no way to import and purchase optics, they would only have Cold War-era sights, or iron sights to work with. However, expensive optics are not as high a priority as ammunition and other supplies that must also be purchased. If purchasing optics at any price point, having iron sights as a backup is necessary.
In the Ukraine, there is a proliferation of optics of many kinds. But iron sights are tough to break and do not require batteries. Most firefights occur inside of 100 yards making magnified optics a disadvantage for me, since I prefer the widest field of view so that I might detect movement if nothing else. The professionals would however recommend a high-end red dot, an ACOG, or LPVO and they would not be wrong. I just go with what I know and what I can afford.
Ukraine is receiving resupply from NATO countries, and via gray or black markets, or even orders via the Internet. I would not expect to be able to replace my optics in a grid-down collapse, and I can not afford to purchase spares of a good-quality optic. I will first have iron sights, and then if I can afford electrically powered optics for faster target acquisition at a later date, then I’d get that too. But only later and only after all my rifles are squared away, and their means of support them in adequate supply. Even if I had the most rugged optics, I will have iron sights as a backup, preferably mounted on the rifle or at least carried in my web gear.
Optics are good, but Training is a Better Solution
The best way to quickly acquire a sight picture and hit a target is to train, train, and train again, until the process is automatic where the mind’s eye knows it has acquired a target and tells the finger to pull the trigger. Optics do not fix this, but practice does. Literally, a thousand repetitions are needed to make the process automatic be it magazine changes or the process of target acquisition. This process involves developing muscle memory. It is necessary to establish this neuro pathway to be able to perform what some call is ‘ instinctive shooting”, ‘snap shooting” or ‘snap-to’ at close or longer ranges under stress. Within 25 yards I almost do not need sights to hit a moving target that could be a bird or rabbit. Train with irons first, then optics. Open sights or ‘iron sights’ will always be there. Consider that in a societal collapse you will run out of batteries, or eventually break the optic. The increasing reliance upon optics alone, without backup sights is very concerning to me, as new shooters do not know enough to appreciate the risk.
Even if iron sights are tried and true, our aging eyes however might need magnified optics or optics that allow us to better see a target at a distance. But again, open sights should always be a part of our rifles. When there is a need to identify a target at a distance magnifying optics are priceless. But optics can hamper our peripheral view and our ability to spot movement at closer ranges. So I will use irons more often than not when and where the rifle will be used mostly in the woods.
The Flat-Top AR-15
For flat-top ARs that do not have fixed front sights, adding detachable open sights can be a good low-cost option. Backup sights are needed should an optic fails. Flip-up backup sights have their place, but a more rugged sight is needed for constant use and is my choice. Flip-up or low-profile sights can be mounted at a 45-degree angle off of the top rail or used on the top rail set up to co-witness with the optic. Low-cost examples of these kinds of sights are in the links below.
Red dot and other optics have their advantages, but you’ll need to spend the money to get a rugged optic and also backup iron sights. And there could be unanticipated negative issues. For example, if the person has an astigmatism with uncorrected vision, the 2 MOA red dot can become a much larger MOA red dot as the eyes do not clearly see a solid point but a sort of blurry dot. When snap shooting at targets that are close by during CQB, use the front sight only and you’ll be close enough when aiming at the center of mass. Put the target between the wings on either side of the sight post and that is good enough, and fast. A red dot sight would however have a huge advantage in low light conditions and woudl be helpful at longer distances.
Carry Handle Sights
I am not discouraging the use of optics, but discussing their limitations and the advantages of open or iron sights. Yes, I would love to own an ACOG or a LPVO (Low Powered Variable Optic) scope, but I will always have iron sights. I have 3×9 scopes for each AR-15 as well, but because I have trained exclusively with iron sights on this type of rifle, I am very comfortable and fast with them and only need a scope for targets at 200 yards and beyond. On my ARs I have the A1 style carry handles instead as I would like to have a carry handle if the rifle has been used for suppressive fire (high volume fire). When the barrel becomes very hot that it melts plastic handguards, it will require two hands to keep the rifle away from yourself to avoid burning gear or skin. With a carry handle, I could carry an overheated rifle and an ammo can full of ammo, or another rifle that is not overheated.
The last time I practiced this drill, the sling caught on fire on the AKM used. Unfortunately, there is no carry handle on the AKM. With a carry handle, only one hand is needed to carry the rifle safely. Of course, over heating the civilian AR-15 that does not have full auto lik and M16 is less likely to occur and only in the heat of a future battle would we fully understand this problem. I do not advocate performing ‘mag dumps.’ That can ruin a barrel on any rifle. The 7.62×39 rifles with chromed chambers and barrels can tolerate more abuse than other rifles, yet I am doubtful that a low-cost AR-15 can. However, I am inclined to test myself and a rifle in extreme circumstances to learn now rather than later.
The best way to avoid overheating a rifle and potentially ruining is to use two rifles for suppressive fire, alternating between the rifles when the magazine is empty, and intentionally slowing the rate of fire. Before the rifle becomes literally too hot to handle and potentially failing to function reliably, switch to the second rifle. The only reason to provide suppressive fire is in a situation where we might be forced to “use it or lose it” during a desperate attempt to hold off attackers and to buy time for maneuver or a retrograde action. (Falling back to another fighting position.) As citizen defenders, we should not use or abuse our equipment. The tactics used to defend ourselves should include the limitations of our equipment, the depth of our ammunition supply, and our manpower.
There are good quality lightweight aluminum carry hand rear sights available from PSA and fixed or folding sights that use primarily a polymer. Whenever possible use aluminum rings or sights machined from aluminum or a polymer to avoid excessive wear to the Picatinny rail on a flat-top upper. Detachable sights can be sighted in and then removed and carried. Scribe a line, use dots of fingernail polish, or otherwise mark the sight adjustment knobs to help ensure that the sight adjustment has not been altered. These can quickly be installed on a rail and replace an optic. While the sight may not hold a precise zero when removed and then reinstalled, the rifleman would at least have iron sights of any kind to keep the rifle operational should his primary sight or optic become compromised in some way.
Open sights would be used for ranges typically well under 200 yards and be battlefield accurate, or good enough. Use a ‘hasty’ 25-yard zero to confirm that the sight or optic is sighted in with a 200-yard zero. For better quality A1/A2 styled carry handles get the PSA version (Palmetto State Armory). This carry handle may or may not work with the other fixed or folding sights, depending on their height above the bore. If the price is right, it is my experience that aftermarket sights are usually at about the same height and will work together in various combinations. For an AR, I intend to carry during the day, I prefer a front folding sight and a fixed front sight and nothing else on the rifle. My nighttime rig is configured differently, and heavier.
The AR-15 has been so refined, modified, and accessorized (adding weight) that there are an endless array of options. If you need to solve an issue with your particular rifle, there is likely an option available for purchase that could be used to improve that rifle in some way. To keep it simple and perhaps to a fault, I will suggest these low-cost iron (open) sights as a starting point. There is an endless variety at all price points:
Nonfolding iron sights I prefer given their low cost and design. These sights are for rifles with a Picatinny rail.
Tactical Flip-up Low Profile Metal Sight Folding Iron Sights Front and Rear Set.
Here are backup sights that can and should be on all rifles that use an optic if they can be fit onto the rifle. These sights are for rifles that have a method to install the necessary Picatinny rail. Some are mounted at a 45-degree angle. To use these, angle the rifle to the left and the open sights are then usable, and good enough for close-range work.
Again, I am providing the lowest cost options. There is better quality available, but keep in mind that perfection is the enemy of good enough and we’ll need redundancy or a deep supply of all essential supplies and tools. I would rather buy two mid-grade quality items rather than one high-quality item that costs the price of two mid-grade items. See:
Front and Rear 45 Degree Offset Adjustable Tactical Iron Sight Set.
and,
Tactical Polymer Front And Rear Ar Flip Up Sight Set.
(To be continued in Part 4.)