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51 Comments

  1. I’ve had good luck with the U.S. BDU pants in our warm humid locale. Thick enough for the cold, yet durable enough for long term use. As stated above, easy to find in used clothing – flea markets if the budget is tight.

    If budget is more discretionary, check out the Duluth fire hose jeans. Comfortable and wear very well, at least in our experience.

    1. I like the Duluth Trading Company’s Firehose cargo pants. Heavy as heck when you pull them out of the package, but surprisingly comfortable to wear. I know “cotton kills,” but in the hot humid southland, I can’t wear the so-called moisture wicking fabrics. In order for them to be hydrophobic, the outside air must be significantly drier than your body surface to allow the moisture to evaporate. Usually doesn’t happen here. YMMV.

      1. I guess I am an idiot…because here in central Texas, I couldn’t figure out why all those wicking fabrics didn’t work very well…you just caused that light in my brain to illuminate…thanks

  3. Appreciated Sven’s article.
    Disagree with the concept that MRE’s will last a lifetime. Under normal conditions, 5 years. In the back of a hot Jeep at 120 degrees, perhaps a year. SOLAS approved bars will last 5 years in any condition, ie. Mayday, or Mainstay, or Datrex.

      1. Rv:
        Nasty, heavy trash, C-Rations are! However the due keep you fed, an d calorie count up witch is was they were partially designed for. As far as MRE’s being heavy?, are you kidding me? Let me know how it feels to do a 30 mile hump with 15 of them in your pack then come talk to us about heavy combat rations. I would rather have 15 MRE’s in my pack than C-Rats anytime. Semper Fi! Uurraahh!

  4. Using a chainsaw will advertise your location to others, and your availability of fuel, to people for miles in all directions.

    Use hand saws as much as possible. Less noise, no fuel requirement, and way less “come and get it” advertising to undesirable elements within sound range.

    CM

  5. I like wool and it’s hard to argue with it’s durability and effectiveness. However do not overlook fleece for clothing and even blankets. It is better than wool for moving moisture away from your body. It is warmer than wool pound for pound. It is generally cheaper and easier to find on sale. It is so popular that you are more likely to find the really useful clothing items in fleece than wool. It layers well without the weight of wool. The good news; right now winter fleece clothing is going on sale in most stores

    1. Try quilted moving blankets. Just as warm and a lot more durable. As to cotton anything. Even in the North it’s good for 8 months a year and heat build up is almost as much a concern as cold.

  6. I have considered the chainsaw’s noise also, but there is nothing stealthy about harvesting wood: trees falling, the solid thwack of the ax, limbing the trunks, even hauling the logs makes noise. If things have really gotten western you need others to act as spotters while some people cut wood so you might as well get it done as quickly as possible. The other thing that concerns me more than the sound is the smell of a fire. You can’t hide that, and a light breeze will carry the smell of your warm home for miles.
    Personally, I try to start each winter with at least two winters’ worth of firewood (and 5 years’ worth of propane) so if things do fall apart I am not pressured to take chances being away from the homestead.

    1. YIKES! for 5 years of propane at my present burn rate I’d have to buy 4 more 1000 gal tanks just for storage! Five 1000 gal tanks would really make me a target! I keep three years or so of firewood on hand at all times. It’s an on going never ending chore even with a chainsaw. It would be a full time job with a cross cut saw. I and my wife are too old to cut that much wood by hand so I’ll go down shooting over my chainsaw noise…. Got 2 big Stihl Farm Boss saws at the moment and will be buying a small “limber” with a 10″ bar as well as one of those chainsaws on a pole in the next couple months. Got a good 3 point mounted splitter as well. Splitting wood by hand is as much work as cutting by hand. I split all mine by hand up until a couple years ago and blew out my shoulder, getting old sucks.
      Wool…I used to do hard core 18th century living history for many years. I have slept with a Whitney blanket with a linseed treated canvas cover in -13 temps on the ground. I found that a good sized heated rock at your feet makes that situation bearable. Of course you only get to sleep a couple hours at a time until it’s time to switch your cold rock out for one that’s been heating by the fire. Rock temps are critical…too hot and you’ll know it in short order! Wool clothes are great. Wear like iron and will keep you warm when you’re wet. I have found there are modern materials that are just as good.

  7. I have to disagree with fleece in the respect that it is dangerous near a fire.Stick with wool in the colder months and cotton in the hot months. You can’t bribe me with long shelf life of MRE’s, there are so many better options !!! I don’t want to be constipated from a MRE ever, period. Where I come from the temperature gets in the upper 90’s in the summer and 20 degrees below zero in the winter. The temperature swings means that you keep track and rotate your food to keep it edible before it is ruined by heat or repeated freezing. I am dedicating this coming new year to getting back into shape and staying in shape ! Sorry, rambling.

    1. Dangerous! No. It can and will get small burns from sparks and it can get even worse if you stick your clothes or clothed parts of your body into the fire. But I assume you wouldn’t do that. I wear fleece exclusively and camp all the time (the joy of retirement) and have zero problems with it.
      I can buy a good Columbia fleece jackets and sweaters for 70% off since I live close to a factory outlet store. That means I can have half a dozen good quality fleece clothing items for what one good wool item would cost. But it gets better; I can find fleece clothing choice that are simply not made in wool. The reason is simple 95% of outdoor cold weather gear is now made from fleece rather than wool. I also live near a Pendleton outlet but I find their prices, even on sale, to be too high. So be careful around the campfire and step up to fleece.

  8. I love wool and so have all the moths that have been in my life, destroying my wool blankets, rugs, sweaters, suits, coats, and all things wool.
    Yep, fleece has its drawbacks, but in the end, all my fleece is still here, while all the wool in my life has been trashed. I have had this happen 3 – 4 times in my life. I have a cedar chest, moth balls, keep the stuff clean. In a serious situation, I will have fleece, because wool has no guarantee for me.

    1. I wonder if the breathable cotton “mite barrier/ bed bug barrier” pillow encasements sold at National Allergy would keep the wool safe from the moths. They are made in the USA and range from regular pillow size to full body pillow size.

  9. And my fleece had never shrunk in the wash. Sadly my custom wool shirts and hats were ruined forever by careless washing. That said, I love wool shirts and underwear. But it’s too fragile.

  10. I’ve never lived in a climate where it was cold enough to use wool. The thought of wool draws up feelings of scratchy itchy skin in the heat of summer, which, here, is at least a humid 100*. I prefer cotton.

    1. You may prefer it but there is ample reason for the phrase “cotton kills”. Cotton absorbs many times its weight in water and then cools your core temperature. It can also cause serious chafing.

      Look for good merino wool from vendors like Ibex, Ice Breaker, Patagonia, Bridgedale, etc and you will be surprised how comfortable and wearable it is. I live in the stuff and never have an “itchy” moment.

  12. For cutting down trees get a two man cross cut saw that is as long as needed to cut down the wood needed (6 feet?). Years ago my brother and I as teenagers were not allowed to use Dad’s chainsaw. We cut a quarter cord of wood on land not our own without our Mom hearing what we did. A hand saw only makes a soft ripping noise that requires no hearing protection, a chainsaw is way too loud and requires gas, two-cycle oil, and bar oil.
    MRE have a three year shelf life at 80 degrees and six months at 100 degrees. Search “Operational Rations of the DOD” or go to https://www.army.mil/e2/c/downloads/306070.pdf to read the information from the DOD group that develops rations.

  13. An article a few days ago mentioned the Speedy Sharp tool. This tool is far superior for sharpening almost anything in the bush and in my experience it beats any other type of sharpening device for ease of use & portability (disclaimer: I am not affiliated with the makers of this tool in any way).

    I absolutely hate lugging around chainsaws and all the other stuff you need to run them. They are simply not practical for trail work and camping unless you are harvesting a lot of larger trees of around 3 inches diameter or larger. I have a cheap folding camp saw that cost less than $10 that literally rips through smaller trees with a fraction of the effort and other issues that come with using a chain saw. They are very light and portable. The cheap ones look and feel flimsy but mine has lasted me for 5 years with proper use and care for a mere $10. I rarely ever use my axe either since I find carrying the camp saw and my bush knife more than meet my needs for firewood. The combination of those 2 items weigh much less than a small bush axe and I’m always amazed at how much firewood I can gather with such simple items with the least amount of effort.

  14. I saw a 5 gallon water container that mounts to an ALICE frame. My sherpa/M60 gunner will be overjoyed to know that I’ve solved the problem of how to carry that much water.

  15. I noted with interest your comments about gear.

    We just recently moved to Western Oregon from Southern CA and so I’m starting to acquire more coldweather/rain gear.

    Any suggestions for a good coat that will last?

    3. In the last two places I’ve lived, I have seen a significant increase of acceptability of camouflage shirts/jackets, and military style backpacks. Camo pants are still fringe element domain.

      Low cost Generation 1 Army BDU patterned waterproof jackts become a solid option. Never buy used. Through a lot of hard use, I found these durable, and more than got my money out of my original. My second was a DX for my original, and was never used, so remains in the inventory in near-new condition.

  16. Many people prepare for a SHTF scenario of the collapse of society but the most logical SHTF scenario to hit most people would be the aftermath of a tornado, hurricane or major earthquake. In this SHTF scenario the sound of a chainsaw clearing downed trees means help is on the way.

  17. We have found well made sturdy clothes at garage sales and some thrift stores, also as mentioned, the outdoor type stores will be putting on sales to get rid of winter stuff soon. Look for coupons in flyers that come with the newspaper. You can get some amazing deals if you’re wise about it.

  19. Okay, tell me if I’m wrong or just crazy, but I have always heard that sharpening serrated blades is easy – you just sharpen them from the back side of the blade.
    Yes? No?

  20. Good merino wool works very well in the desert as well. It allows breathing while preventing sun burn. And, good wool (not boiled or treated to death) can be worn for many days before getting funky as it contains natural antibacterial properties.

  21. I tend to go with people who work for a living. While wool and fleece has value for a hunter out in the woods or for soldiers on patrol, cotten clothing that is easy to wash seems to work well for many farmers who are within walking distance to their house.

    Synthetic fleece has many good points but I also note the British country approach to using clothing that is SUSTAINABLE — wool sweaters, waxed oilskins, etc. Although the Wellies are Oil Industry rubber — but easy to wash off if you are working in a muddy farmyard. As opposed to leather boots.

    People who survive TEOTWAWKI will be farmers. To those who think they will survive as roaming nomad warriors , I can only say “Grow Up”.

  22. Someone stupidly got rid of nearly all his BDUs when the Army phased to the ACU pattern. Then he started getting prepared, and didn’t have those highly serviceable unis laying around….

    My tip for the day. The venerable Army M-51 Parka. Waaaaay under-rated. You can still find new ones out there. I’ve inspected the new-fangled Airforce parka, and the new(er?) Army Parka, and still think for the right price point, that the old M-51 is better value, and supports layering better. Super serviceable in cold/snowy climates.

  23. If you’re looking for a tough and waterproof coat try a waxed cotton [oilcloth] product. The British and Australians have been using them for hundreds of years, and I can also testify to how tough and warm they can be. They’re a little heavier than some materials, but I have four that have been through every kind of condition in east Tennessee mtns.and they just keep going.You can just add wax when needed.

  24. I have two blankets made out of horse’s hair. My Grammie would use them as sleigh blankets in Canada when she was a little girl. They are extremely warm but itchy for sure.

  25. First of all .. thanks for a great collection of thoughts. Helped me remember a few things I had heard and some that I want to learn more about.

    On amo and hunting. Where I live in Alaska sound travels well and far. A loud conversation can be heard at quite a distance. My daughter, brother, and I are becoming proficient with a bow. I am considering finding a crossbow ( not currently legal for hunting here) for my dad the grandpa of the place. A clean shot is deadly and silent. Arrows can be made at home and can be retrieved often times after a missed shot.

    On wool. I keep a small flock of sheep. They provide us with meat and wool. That wool has so many uses and clothing is only one. There are many fine manufactured fibers out there – but for rural Alaskan living ( think 9 months in the freezer) wool can’t be beat

  26. Definitely need a good water resistant paper map – I take my Delorme maps to big box office stores – make color copies, then get a few of the pages laminated, punch a hole in the corner and put several several together with a key ring.

    The gps devices are to ubiquitous and make it too easy to become dependent on them – next time you travel someplace new – try using a road map, will be good practice and get you familiar with the places along the way – you’ll be pleased to find many interesting places not shown on the gps.

    Interestingly, long ago, in our high school state history class (yes, isn’t that funny, asking kids to know the history of their state), we had a week or so of classroom training on how to read a map and assignments to map out routes and calculate mileage, amounts of fuel needed, and what alternative routes if the passes were closed – one of many things learned then versus now, and certainly helped me with dead reckoning flight planning chores when flying low and slow.

    1. An interesting choice for waterproof maps is to have your map of choice printed on a bandanna that is twice the size of a normal bandanna. Worked on D-day for the airborne. A bandanna that size has many uses.

  27. Excellent short tips!
    RE: warm clothing –
    I have found Merino wool to be exceptional for hot and cold/wet weather. Unlike coarser wools, Merino wool does not itch. When I hike I wear Merino t-shirts so that when I stop for lunch I do not get chilled as I do with a wet cotton t-shirt. I wear Merino boxer shorts year round for all activities and casual. They do not stink like the synthetics and do not feel clammy like cotton briefs. And of course I wear Merino socks for all activities as well, from ankle length for running shoes, lightweight crew dress socks, and medium and heavy hiking socks. I think Merino is most important as a base layer for maximum moisture and heat control: t-shirt, boxers, socks. I do have casual collar shirts and a sweater in Merino, but heavier coats are regular wool, fleece or synthetic fill. I’ve worn Merino as base and top shirt in 100F very comfortably where changing out a sweaty cotton shirt and briefs was not practical. I wear it when running or long day hikes, at the office, or doing manual work.

    You do not need to machine dry Merino wool items, so no shrinkage. I wash all my Merino items along with colored cotton clothes, then just hang overnight on a drying rack. It dries very fast. For socks I like Smartwool and Darn Tough. For briefs I like Ibex Woolies. For shirts and sweaters I like Ibex, Ice Breaker or Smartwool. All have held up to frequent wear and washings.

  29. i sell military gear BECAUSE it’s very good at keeping you warm and dry. polypro and polartec are 2 very good names. nowadays, the medium weight “Waffles” are the preferred longjohns, if you are working in very cold temps. i spend a lot of time NOT Moving outside, so i like the older brown polypro’s, i think they call them(fleece-lined). the best goretex jackets they now call parkas are very good at keeping you dry, and warm too if you layer underneath…the good parka is the older one with a liner to seal out the cold, with a drawstring….love the pockets, as you can put your hands in there at the right angle, and yet stuff doesn’t fall out of them. i sell them for 60 bucks at gunshows….and a used one works very well, as long as it’s in good shape still. oh, and the armpits unzip if it gets too warm….just like the fleece the army uses does. or just get a field jacket liner, they work too…..oh, and i do like my xxxl field jacket with it’s giant pockets…i wear it to the movies, with first-aid, knife, multi-tool, paracord, beanie, gloves, and scarf….it all fits so i got my throw-on bugout coat at a moments notice, and i can hide anything under it….with room left for a couple bottles of water. google(Duckduckgo, actually) ECWCS, or extreme cold weather clothing system to see how it all works in the army….you can learn a lot there, even if you don’t go with military clothes. the combat boots are also VERY good, and made in narrow to wide and extra wide sizes…..they even have winter boots with liners for arctic type temps, fort lewis, i think they’re called(black).

  30. i like the marshmellow coat, urban grey for the army too…like wearin’ a sleeping bag….it’s the outermost layer the army uses, i believe.
    also on MRE”s, they will last MANY years past 5, if properly stored.
    also, put a couple 4×6 or 6×8 blocks of wood 3 feet long in your vehicle, for crossing obstacles when you got to travel the dirt roads…..and don’t forget a small piece of chain to CONNECT Your car to a tow strap in case you get stuck.

  31. I wore a pair of cotton cargo shorts and a cotton tee shirt on a hike a couple of years ago here in Georgia and within 30 minutes they soaked up – and held – what felt like 15 pounds of sweat. Additional weight, and chafing to add to the misery. While I could wring them out at the end of the day they still didn’t dry out over night. Now I wear synthetics and while they get damp they don’t hold the moisture the same, and they dry out quick.

    I’m switching to Merino tees – they don’t stink the way the synthetic shirts do after a day of hiking in the Georgia heat. I may experiment with Merino shorts if I can find some at a reasonable price.

  32. I vaporized a fleece jacket once by sitting too close to our glass front fireplace. My wife yelled at me—“You’re on fire” as the smell of burning petroleum hit me. Luckily the fleece was the outer layer and the other 3 layers I was wearing protected me. I still have that grey fleece jacket, but it has a 12 inch round hole in the back. I plan on sewing some more fleece to cover the hole since the rest of it is ok.

  33. This is a question about surplus wool blankets. I bought 3 of them and they have a chemical smell. It is likely a preservative or a pest deterrent. What is the best way to clean them without damaging the blankets?
    Thank you

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