Mr. Rawles,
Your reply to S.H. in Georgia letter was spot on about the loads for the M1 Garand.
I’ve been shooting an M1 for nearly 40 years, It’s my favorite–truly my weapon of choice. I went through basic training with one and as soon as I could after discharge I bought one.
May I suggest:
1. Never shoot any bullet over 168 grain weight. I shoot 155 grain.
2. En Bloc clips can be loaded incorrectly, and if they are the gun will jam. Looking down at the clip, the top-most round should be on the right side.
3. When I need parts for the M1, I order them from Fulton Armory. They have original U.S. GI parts. I would not use gun shows or after market.
4. From several sources (including Fulton Armory) you can order the book The M1 Garand Complete Assembly Guide
Thank you for the info you provide for your readers. – B.L. from Ohio
James:
In response to S.H.’s post about the M1 Garand, he has obviously not shot his Garand very much, lack of M2 ball is a fallacy, as you can make your own with pulled surplus projectiles that run around $130 for 1,000. 147 Grain, FMJ Military Bullets. Use original IMR 4895 powder and you have M2 Ball. The cases for your new run of M2 ball usually come from the cheaper hunting rounds, they can only be used once, but no more than twice, unless you have real Lake City Brass which is not hard to come by. I have also shot every kind of hunting round available through my Garand with no problems, though they do like the FMJ bullets better.
Remember to lube your Garand at the proper lube points with, if you can find it, WW2 era grease pots. All the these WW2-vintage weapons need lubrication with heavy grease including the Garand, Carbine, Thompson, and Browning Machineguns. In some ways, the WWII weaponry is superior to most modern weapons. It is of high quality steel, they are tough, tested, and reliable. The best ammo that I have ever shot out of my Garand is from BMG linked rounds. You pull them out of the links and shoot away with your rifle. – Dan in Oklahoma