Jim,
For starters I would like to say that Jim you are dead-on with your Delta Junction recommendation. I live near Delta. And it is some of the finest farm land in the world. everything grows amazing here. Some of the information in the previous letters is wrong and I would like to clarify them . The growing season may be a little shorter in days of light, but in total hours of light it is much longer than other places. It gets light here in May and gets dark at night again in late August. Some vegetables will grow great, some don’t do so well, Corn doesn’t like it, but potatoes grow without trying. And as for isolation, that’s the idea. Things are harder to get, but you learn to live with less and enjoy it more. As for power, at least in the Delta area you do not need to worry about that in the winter, solar is awesome here in the summer, but in winter the wind is ever present. I have four wind generators that I built from old car alternators and Fan blades. I never had a loss in the battery bank. I live off of their grid anyway, so I am used to adapting.
As for the wood situation, certain types of trees do incredibly well here, And they grow faster not slower, I have trees that I know weren’t there ten years ago and are over twelve feet tall, Spruces grow well here, and birch is my main heat, I have a fair sized house, and a new, catalyst stove and burn 5-to-7 cords of wood per winter.
Fuel is more expensive here, but it fluctuates like anywhere else, buy when the price is low, and stockpile it. In this area it is common for people to have a couple of 1,000 gallon tanks buried in their yard, Moose and caribou ar always around as a meat source, as with buffalo in this area. (Yes we have buffalo in Alaska). Along with Many other species of flora and fauna.
On the other hand Alaska is not a place for those who can not take care of themselves. In this area it is not uncommon to see the temps dip below -60,F. I have seen -72. It is dark all winter, And the stores never have what you want. There is plenty of water though, my well is thirty feet deep, and the pump is set down to twenty feet, My suggestion for people who are thinking about moving to Alaska is simple, Unless you have lived a subsistence lifestyle for a while, are used to constant extreme weather changes, and can do it on your own, stay where you are, or find some place else. As for me, I will never go outside [Alaska] again, you can keep it. – Z. in Alaska
Mr. Rawles
I too am a long time reader and this is also the first time I have written. I urge all of your readers to take head to Mr. Galt’s letter concerning Alaska as a retreat locale. It is harsh up here. I live in Delta Junction area and love it. We have been here for over 10 years now and have our place set up pretty well. We live off grid and in the bush, hunt, fish, trap, mush dogs etc. etc. I wouldn’t encourage anyone to try to move here and set up a retreat this late in the game. We just went through a couple weeks of -50 to -60(Tok recorded -78) temperatures then 70 m.p.h. hour winds that blew down many trees and damaged a lot of structures. These things are a regular occurrence. A lot of Russian immigrants have moved from the lower 48 into the Delta area. Most of the ones I have met seem to be good people but most live off welfare. When the welfare stops we’ll have problems. The bad bunch of them are thieves already not just the Russian but Americans also. The Russian community has a bad reputation for it though. Anyone planning to move here and find a job might be in for a rude awakening.
The local jobs don’t pay enough to live on the grid and the government jobs stay filled mostly. Delta is profiting from a small military bubble economy brought about by the Ground-Based Midcourse Defense (GMD) program but with you know in office now all that could come to a screeching halt at anytime. Because of the GMD program everyone around here thinks their land has gold on it and prices it accordingly.
Yes, Delta does have a big farming community. Most of the farmers get buy living off of government programs and are deeply in debt. The ones that don’t live off the program hurt. Most farms lay dormant wile collecting CRP checks. I have heard that there will be no more new CRP contracts in the future. The fertility of the farm land has gone way down too because of the climate here. The cold doesn’t allow much time for plant matter to decompose plus it’s hard to have crop rotation with only Barley. (Barley, hay grasses, potatoes, and carrots are the main crops grown here.) For the last three years we have had a frost in the middle of August that pretty much killed any vegetables that were not in a green house.
Wells in Delta are any where from 40 to 450 feet in depth. If you buy land where there is bed rock you may drill 450 deep and still get mastodon pee to drink. Wells are at $50 a foot this year. Better plan on how to get water out of the well when the power goes down. Currently heating oil is 2.23 at the pump in town, more if its delivered. Diesel is currently $3.69. It hit $5 last winter. Fire wood from Delta Lumber is $180 per cord until they run out for the winter other sources are up to $250. The people from Delta lumber are great people and will work themselves silly trying make sure no one goes cold. I have seen one add for firewood for $300 per cord. Dry firewood is a must because -50 the soot form green wood builds in the chimney thus creating chimney fire. A friend of mine got burned out at -50 for that very reason. They didn’t get in enough dry wood for the winter. Luckily they were able to run to separate garage and no one suffered any cold injuries. Finding a place to cut fire wood now is getting hard to find.
Most people here are enjoying high power bills now since Golden Valley increased their rates. The average size house power bill is running $300- $400 [per month] in the winter maybe less if your really frugal. You have to keep your vehicles plugged in. In a diesel that is like running a 1,500 watt electric heater. Wind power is a possibility if your turbine can withstand the wind. Closer to the mountains it has been 100 mph. The wind here isn’t steady it is really gusty, not good for turbine. Rent is running around a $1,000 and up for a three bedroom home. Certified sewers are from $6,000 to $16,000 depending. Cost to build is running around the $150 per square foot range and going up.
If you don’t know how Seasonal Affect Disorder (SAD) will affect you, then you’s better find out before you try to make a permanent move here. Cabin fever has been the demise of many people who move here and plan to live the wilderness experience. The only cure for it is to be outside. It don’t matter what the the temp is you got to get out side when it’s light. SAD has be the cause for suicide, alcoholism, and drugs. People do the latter two to cope. I personally have never had it. I have too much work to do. People who don’t procrastinate and get all there chores done and food stores in order for the winter and plan to stay in the cabin for the winter suffer the worse. We don’t procrastinate but we don’t stay in either. The cabin is only a place to warm up, eat and sleep. Living is done outside the cabin. We trap, mush dogs, care for the horses, cut more fire wood when it’s not too cold, fire up the blacksmith forge, build some log furniture. It is easy to get lazy and lethargic during the winter. You have to fight the urge daily. We had a couple move in not to far from us. I told the lady to make sure she kept the windows uncovered in the winter. Well, they were the lazy type and didn’t ever have enough wood cut so they covered the windows and blocked out some of the cold but mostly the light. They made it though one winter but the next one they didn’t. They pulled up [stakes] and left middle of the winter.
As much as I love living here, if I were looking for a retreat locale this late in the game then it would be some place more hospitable. We did move here for the lack of people and when things get even worse I expect people to start migrating out of Alaska especially the interior. It requires a lot of hard work to live here more especially so if your living off the land. How would you like to cut 20 cords of wood with a hand operated saw and axe when you run out of gas and or you saw goes down? Running chain saws in the sub-zero weather is hard on them. Better get extra clutches for them. What about when the mosquitoes bloom and you have run out of bug dope?
Hunting is decent here. The Russian community poaches a lot of the moose in the Delta management area. They do it to eat. I am not knocking them for that. When the SHTF it will be even worse therefore even we will have to start going further into the bush to hunt using sled teams to get there. If you plan to have dogs and sled they require a lot of food. [Here they eat mostly] fish. The salmon that makes it this far inland is [best -suited for] dog food. It is pretty beat up by the time is gets here. The flesh is a faint pink to gray color as they are close to the end of the life span. Anyone planning to come to Alaska to survive the upheaval better have there you know what together or they won’t make it. This land is unforgiving and the least mistakes get big in a hurry. Sorry that my letter has gotten so long but I want people to know what they are getting into if they come here thinking it’s paradise. It ain’t. but it’s the life we love. People here are willing to help if you are not stupid. Our favorite saying around here is “If you gonna be dumb then you’d better be tough” – C.B.