Letter From “Falsemuzzle” Re: Black Powder Guns in Survival Planning

Jim:
An appropriate addition to your selection of firearms should be a black powder (BP) revolver and longarm.
Many very fine guns of these types are sold all over the U.S. and so detailing the good and bad of each is probably beyond the scope of this commentary. Many prefer their own experience in the area when choosing a good BP firearm, and so I will not try to express my own biases here. What counts is having them.
In terms of mobility, pre-cast bullets would be the best bet. In terms of a permanent site, storage of raw lead is perfectly fine (since it never goes bad!).
Quality casting equipment [for lead bullets] helps as does some experience in that area – like anything there is a learning curve which in this case allows for a quick level of expertise derived from having a good time learning. Errors in casting bullets can be re-cast allowing for very cost effective on the job training. Lead essentially becomes the ultimate recyclable material – very little wastage. Recovering bullets from a day’s shooting of your cartridge firearms simply adds to your supply of lead for either your BP or conventional cartridge firearm (assuming that you reload).
Ruger’s products are very well respected – the Old Army is perhaps the best choice in BP revolvers, Colt’s BP series is also an excellent choice (though more pricey). Kit guns can be fun to assemble, but normally require some amount of hand-work to fine-tune. Italian-made BP revolvers by Uberti, or Navy Arms are good choices too.
Personally, I would not buy a Walker-sized revolver simply because of the weight issue. Colt’s Army, or Ruger’s Old Army are well-balanced and handy.
Browning’s discontinued Mountain rifle was an excellent product and pretty collectible. One should track one of these down if you can find one for sale. But like the revolvers mentioned above, the Browning Mountain rifle is not the only great BP rifle available. Kit rifles can be excellent choices too. Aside from being an adult, Federal regulations are very liberal. It is well-worth your investigation of State and Local regulations though, to be sure of you area’s laws.
Calibers do not matter much past knowing what you need your firearm to do. BP hunting journals are excellent sources for this information, while there are typically many books published on the subject available in larger gun stores. Finding a copy of the Foxfire book that deals with making BP wouldn’t hurt, but read as much as you can.[JWR Adds: He is referring to Foxfire Volume 5: Iron making, Blacksmithing, Flintlock Rifles, Bear Hunting…]
Making BP is something I cannot comment on as I have not made it myself. You would be best advised to learn such an art VERY cautiously for two good reasons. Poor BP makes for poor performance, and mishandled BP – poor or good – can be volatile. Learning from BP enthusiasts is a good start, though most will probably tell you to opt for factory made powders.
There is no great mystery to BP grain sizes – though archaic the grains sizes used in most rifles or revolvers is FFFG – you can work with different grain sizes but the largest size is really not going to be an option.
Simply put, any well-stocked retreat should have BP arms, just like it should have a good hunting bow.
For hunting in some areas, the BP seasons are run longer and earlier. Using them conserves your precious cartridge supply. There is no need to worry about “reloading” cartridges cases that soon split, or complicating your life with re-loading equipment. – Falsemuzzle

JWR Replies: I agree that BP guns do have a place in survival planning.  However, if someone’s main goal is getting guns that are outside of Federal jurisdiction (with no purchase paperwork required in most locales), from a practical standpoint they are better off buying pre-1899 cartridge guns from the 1890s, such as the Mausers and the S&W top break revolvers that are sold by dealers such as The Pre-1899 Specialist.  If, in contrast, the intent is to have guns that will remain useful in the event of a multi-generational societal collapse, them BP guns make a lot of sense. Lead for bullet/ball casting can be stored in quantity, and even salvaged wheel weights or battery plate lead could be substituted. Black powder and percussion caps could conceivably be “home brewed”–although there are some serious safety considerations. 

BP arms have lower velocity and hence less stopping power than modern smokeless powder cartridge guns. However, they can still be fairly reliable stoppers.  I would NOT want to be a burglar confronted by a homeowner that is holding a pair of Ruger Old Army .44 percussion cap revolvers! OBTW, since black powder is inherently corrosive, I recommend buying stainless steel guns whenever possible. So make that a pair of stainless steel Ruger Old Army .44 percussion cap revolvers.

If you ever envision BP guns being pressed into service for self-defense, then get models that optimize fast follow-up shots and fast reloading. For example, consider the the Kodiak brand double rifle. Some brands of BP revolvers have cylinders that are relatively quick to change. For those, it makes sense to buy two or three spare cylinders for each gun that can be kept loaded. Of course be sure to have each gun tested with all of the cylinders to make sure that they all function and “register” correctly.

Letter Re: Defensive Shotguns on a Budget

Dear Jim:
Mr. Bravo is right on the money regarding Mossberg shotguns. They are inexpensive and reliable. At IDPA shoots (www.idpa.com) I see problems EVERY match with auto shotguns, but far fewer problems with pump guns. The pump gun is a little slower to run, but the major problem of short stroking the pump is quickly corrected on the fly, while the autos can jam and are completely out of action.
The only mechanical thing I have had go wrong with my Mossberg 500 or 590 is the safety’s spring loosening up after 10 years, with the safety coming on with recoil. The factory fixed the 10 year old gun at no charge.

Combat Pump Shotguns:
You can now add a recoil reducing pistol grip stock to your Mossberg or other pump gun. This actually tames 12 gauge birdshot down to .223 recoil levels! 00 buckshot is a breeze to shoot.
http://knoxx.com/NewStyleKnoxx/Products/SpecOpsStock.html
In my opinion the Mossberg 500 home defense model with the lighter and shorter 18.5″ barrel is the way to go, vs. the 20″ barrel, 8 shot 590.  See: http://mossberg.com/pcatalog/Specpurp.htm
Save the money on the shotgun model because you can add the “Sidewinder” 10 round DETACHABLE drum magazine for 10 + 1 firepower. The Sidewinder detachable mag is only made for Mossbergs, a critical reason to go Mossberg….
http://knoxx.com/NewStyleKnoxx/Products/SideWinder.htm
Put a SpecOps recoil reducing stock on the Mossberg 500, and add the “PowerPak” 5 round stock ammo carrier for more ammo on the gun, see
http://knoxx.com/NewStyleKnoxx/Products/PowerPakSystem.html
and then add the 6 round “SideSaddle” mag on the side of the receiver, see
http://www.lymanproducts.com/tacstar/sidesadd.htm
Now you have a 10 round mag + 5 on the stock + 6 on the receiver = 21 rounds of 12 gauge on the gun! Ideal for the emergency “grab and go” situation where you don’t have time to put on all that Tommy Tactical gear. In a real emergency time is often the most critical asset. If you do have time to put on gear, you can keep the optional 6 round box mag on your belt.
You can even get cute, and load birdshot or buckshot in the mag for less penetration, and then put specialty rounds like flechettes, or slugs on the Side Saddle and PowerPak.
Rough pricing, Mossberg 500, $230 and up, all the other accessories total roughly $ 450. As always shop around – links are to manufacturers, but retailers are often cheaper, e.g., Cabela’s is $220 on the Sidewinder. Regards – OSOM – “Out of Sight, Out of Mind”

Two Letters Re: Alternate Fluids for Bore Cleaning and Gun Lubrication

Jim –
Use “Ed’s Red” for a great home made weapon cleaning solution. See: http://www.building-tux.com/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm. I made a couple of gallons a long time ago and I’m still working on them… Regards, – G.T.

Hi James,
Possibly the best information source on the web for “homemade cleaners” is here: http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
Regards, – “Moriarty”

Letter Re: Road Blocks

Jim,
As with any obstacle, roadblocks will only be effective if covered by fire. Also obstacles must be tied into the terrain and the overall fighting plan. Digging an anti-tank ditch across a road [in level country] won’t stop anyone if they can just drive around it. The French Maginot Line was a great obstacle, but the Germans just went around it. So any roadblock has to tie into other natural or artificial barriers. A roadblock that denies the only bridge that crosses an otherwise impassible river is a good example of one that ties into the terrain. However, if that obstacle is not covered by fire, then it only provides a delay. An enemy will still reach it’s objective, it just might take longer. It’s pretty simple. If there is no covering fire, then the obstacle can be reduced sooner or later. A tree across a road might stop a truck, but a few sandbags on each side and a truck can get over it. If no one is there to provide “discouragement”, then the obstacle will be breeched. Adequately covering that tree with fire prevents it’s reduction, and the obstacle prevents mobility. So each enhances the other. Also, the obstacle has to be sufficient for the desired effect. The tree has to be big enough, or the wall tall enough, or the river deep enough, etc. The Alamo had one portion of it’s wall that was very weak and thrown up at the last minute. While covered by fire, it was inadequate for what was needed, and this is where the Mexican Army was able to breech the fortress by concentrating force at the weak spot. So think obstacle, not speed-bump.
In your defense planning, remember that an obstacle NOT covered by fire will not STOP anyone.

Use OCOKA (Observations and fields of fire, Cover and Concealment, Obstacles, Key terrain, Avenues of approach) when you analyze the terrain. Tie your obstacles in with your overall fighting plan. They’re just one tool in the box, and must be used with other tools to get the job done. By themselves, they do nothing but cause you to expend resources on them. Tie them in with your retreat defense plan. – “Doug Carlton”

 

James:
A point that I raise with heavy equipment is not a new one, but important to know. Most manufacturers, (even to this day) have one key, (meaning all matching door knobs, ignitions, etc…) for that brand. This means in simple terms, if you own a CASE skid loader, then you can start everyone else’s too. Not much for piece of mind!
As a kid, I remember my Dad sticking the old Ford pickup keys about 1/4″ into the dozer ignition and voila! It starts. He ended up putting a push button start in a secret place and it took the key and the button to start it. I would hate to have a D4 dozer aimed at my retreat no matter the construction!
-The Wanderer

JWR Replies: I’m sorry that I did not make myself clear. It almost goes without saying that to be relatively “immobile” a vehicle needs to have its ignition system rendered useless. This is best accomplished by removing a key part. (which will vary, according to the engine and ignition type.) In regard to Doug’s comments: A great description of the futility of constructing roadblocks that are not covered by small arms fire is described in the Larry Niven and Jerry Pournelle’s novel “Lucifer’s Hammer.”

Odds ‘n Sods:

Disarming gun owners wasn’t enough for the hoplophobic Scots. Now they want to ban knives, too. See:   http://www.theherald.co.uk/news/55905.html and
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/4691634.stm Laddies, its time to call Mel Gibson. You could use another William Wallace “Sons of Scotland!” speech about now…

  o o o

Only six year too late, President Mugabe is asking Zimbabwe’s displaced farmers to return: The http://news.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2006/02/09/wzim09.xml.
Good luck Comrade. They’ll come back, but not until after you and your henchmen have been sent packing.

  o o o

Some of the Cell Phone Tracking web sites that we mentioned last week are being shut down: http://www.newsmax.com/archives/ic/2006/2/8/212731.shtml?s=ic

  o o o

The folks at NoNAIS.org have posted a new article that warns that RFID biochips could be “hacked” or copied and used to point the finger of blame for any misdeed (real or imagined), at will. Please write your congresscritters. NAIS must be stopped!

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"I tell ye true, liberty is the best of all things; never live beneath the noose of a servile halter." – William Wallace, Address to the Scots, circa 1300

Note from JWR:







If you have been putting off signing up for our “10 Cent Challenge”, then here is a quick and easy way to set up an automatic monthly PayPal billing (just $3 per month.) Is reading SurvivalBlog worth 10 cents a day to you? If so, then please click this button:

Alternate Fluids for Bore Cleaning and Gun Lubrication

SurvivalBlog reader L.M. alerted me to an informative article at Armalite’s web site about how automatic transmission fluid can be used as a firearm bore cleaner, and how motor oil can be used as a gun lubricant. Even if you are committed to Break-Free and Hoppes #9 (like me), this is good to know WTSHTF and cleaning supplies get scarce. See: http://www.armalite.com/library/techNotes/tnote64.htm.

Letter Re: Road Blocks and “Spider Holes”

Hello James,
I have been thinking back upon your novel Patriots and the importance the “spider holes” played.  That sparked another memory, one of discussion some time ago in the blog about blocking roads, one gentleman even mentioned dropping a tree across his drive if necessary. What would be a good, better, best barricade of the next four,… and what else could you suggest?
1). Dropped Trees/ telephone pole, logs, et cetera
2). Large boulders, (3′ on up)
3). Posts buried but sticking up to random heights
4). Some sort of a berm or trench
In line with my first question, what is a suitable tactical layout, (i.e.- spacing) for “foxholes” [or “spider holes”] and what type of construction would you recommend? – The Wanderer

JWR Replies: I generally recommend mobile roadblocks, in all but the absolute worst case exigent circumstances. (Waves of crazed mutant cannibal zombies.)  In wooded or steep country, a D4 (or larger) Caterpillar tractor parked perpendicular to a road with its blade dropped works just dandy.  Nobody is going to be able to move it unless they have the ability start it up. BTW, a large car or truck with its tires deflated (remove the valve stems) can work nearly as well. Don’t forget that permanent road blocks work both ways. The beauty of a mobile road block is that you can still exit your property on short notice.

As for foxholes and spider holes, their spacing depends on the terrain and vegetation. In open, fairly level country, they should be spaced as much as 20 yards apart.  In densely wooded country, perhaps as little as 5 yards apart.  They should be arrayed in a “Lazy W” pattern, as shown/described in U.S. Army Field Manuals (FMs) such as Chapter 2 of FM 21-75  (See: http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/21-75/.) I describe construction techniques fox holes and spider holes (the latter are one man fox holes with camouflaged covers) in my novel Patriots.   They should be lined with plywood. BTW, don’t forget that drainage is crucial for fighting positions in all but the driest of climates.

Letter Re: How to Buy Silver?

Jim,
Why [do you] recommend [serialized] 100 ounce silver bars when 90% silver coins are selling at spot and the bars are at spot plus $.30 (this is from www.cmi-gold-silver.com in Phoenix)? It seems like silver coins would be the better choice because they are cheaper and more versatile than 100 ounce bars. – Springmtnd

JWR Replies: If you can buy circulated pre-1965 U.S. silver coinage at spot, that is fantastic. Even after the recent dip, most dealers currently charge around 7 times face value ($7,000 per $1,000 face value bag.) As a point of reference, a $1,000 bag with typically worn coins contains about 715 ounces of silver. Here is the math: 715 x $9.50 per ounce = $6,792. That–or near that–is what most “storefront” (coin shop) dealers would pay, wholesale. Typically they would then re-sell it for 3% to 10% more. (Closer to the lower end of that range on half-bag or larger quantities.)

I agree that coins are more versatile that bullion bars. I only recommended 100 ounce bars for non-barter investing, because they generally carry a lower dealer premium. Coins only take up a bit more storage space, and they weigh only 10% more that bars, per dollar value. So if you have the opportunity to buy coins cheap, then go for it!  For any of you  reading this who are wondering about size and weight:  A $1,000 bag weighs around 55 pounds, and is about the size of a bowling ball. Like the 100 ounce bars, the bullion bags make great “ballast” for the bottom of a gun vault.

Two Letters Re: Changing The Retreat Locale Paradigm: Cellular Phones and Two-Way Satellite Internet Systems

Sir,
Firstly let me congratulate you on taking your blog full-time. It has proved an excellent resource for myself and getting friends and family to see the benefits of preparedness. Almost as effective as your novel, in fact! I hope resources will permit me to become a contributing reader in the very near future.

A quick note on Cellular Broadband for remote locations, several companies are now offering broadband speed to cell phones or mobile devices(such as the Palm Treo or the RIM Blackberry). Several of these phones can act as a modem: by attaching the cellular phone to the computer it can act as the wireless PC card mentioned in Keith’s letter. This has two benefits: the phones often have better antennas then the PC cards(at least in my experience) and the monthly data plans for handheld devices are often cheaper than for dedicated PC cards.
The downside is that while you are away from the computer (with your cell phone) the computer is no longer online. The newest Verizon Blackberry offering has this ability, I am certain we will see many more to follow.

Having Email and Internet on one’s cell phone may seem frivolous, but I see a very real benefit in being able to receive emails and notifications about news, severe weather, etc while away from my computer. Thank you again for such an excellent resource. Sincerely, – Pat

 

James:
To begin with, MOST of the sat connections are NOT for multiple people. The key is to setup a NAT/Proxy on the computer that connects to the satellite service and let it be the gateway to the net for all the other machines behind that machine.

We have used a directPC unit with 20 people getting net access via one account and machine. the business version is designed for letting lots of folks access at the same time, but the consumer units are way cheaper and the monthly charges are about $99 per month.

I am considering getting a RV unit for my search and rescue vehicle to setup mobile command posts and information units.

ALL of it costs, so take baby steps. I also have some experience with HF packet radio rigs, but they are mostly suited for sending emails, and not in great volume.

A good HF radio with a Packet TNC runs about 1000 to 2000 [baud], but can give you some email from way away places.

a combination of a sat connection along with and HF rig could be mighty handy if TEOTWAWKI materializes. – M.R.

Odds ‘n Sods:

I just learned that Ken Timmerman, my former colleague at Defense Electronics magazine, has been nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize! See: http://www.newsmax.com/archives/ic/2006/2/8/111611.shtml?s=ic Back in the late 1980s Ken was living in Paris and was a columnist for Defense Electronics. At the time I was an Associate Editor, and I edited some of his columns. Since he was in tight with folks in both Parisian defense and diplomatic circles (he speaks fluent French), we had some fascinating conversations and on-line chats.) In the same era, Ken edited the Middle East Defense News newsletter (a.k.a. MEDNews.) His most recent book, “Countdown to Crisis: The Coming Nuclear Showdown with Iran,” was published in Aught Five. I highly recommend it.

   o o o

Doc at Big Secrets recommends this site with tons of “hands on” practical info: http://www.enterpriseworks.org/vita.asp

   o o o

Here is an Agriculture Department report on the efficacy of drilling or digging do-it-yourself water wells: http://www.fao.org/documents/show_cdr.asp?url_file=/docrep/X5567E/x5567e00.htm

   o o o

A reader pointed me to an interesting site on general survival topics: http://www.survivalmonkey.com/ It is particularly useful for its PDF files and links.

   o o o

For those of you that are into gardening and livestock, be sure to visit the Homesteading Today web site. (http://www.homesteadingtoday.com). Don’t miss their interesting discussion forums.

   o o o

There is a site with a handy graphical summary of current hacking and Internet virus threats: http://securitywizardry.com/radar.htm

Important Note from JWR:

Well, I’ve taken the plunge: I just gave my boss two months notice. (Up until now, I have been working a “day job” as a full time salaried technical writer, and just blogging part time.) As of the last day of March, I will be devoting myself to writing about survival and preparedness topics and will be republishing my novel “Patriots.”

My immediate goal is to build up the number of SurvivalBlog advertisers as well as the number of  “10 Cent Challenge” contributors. If you feel convicted to do so, please pitch in your 10 cents. Thusfar, only 65 readers (out of 9000+ who read SurvivalBlog at least once a week) have ponied up 10 cents a day, or more.

More importantly, if you have any personal contacts with a company that is a potential advertiser, please ask them to get a SurvivalBlog banner ad. Our ads are very inexpensive compared to a magazine ad. (Starting at as little as $55 per month!) BTW, you can mention that our current advertisers report that their business has increased anywhere from 25% to 300% after they started running their SurvivalBlog ads.

The Big Dip Makes Silver a Screaming Buy

The big 48 cent “profit taking” drop in the spot price of silver yesterday represents a great buying opportunity. For those of you that felt that you “missed the boat” this dip is your chance to buy some silver before the bull resumes his charge. For those of you that already have a pile of silver, don’t let short term volatility like this spook you. We are in the opening stages of secular bull market in precious metals that may last a full decade. The long term charts at Kitco.com should convince you.Quit hesitating and Buy! (Yes, I mean you too, Fred.)