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David in Israel Re: A Winter Crossing

While living on the dry side of the state of Oregon [eastern Oregon] while in college, my bugout plan always included heading to one of two prepped positions one a cramped remote cabin and some buckets of food and gear the other a friend who had well prepared but was too close to a highway. Circumstances would have dictated which to go to. In winter, my plan was to ski and sled in my gear. Without the assistance of a massive snow plowing network, much of the northern United States would be locked-in, once winter arrived. Almost all logging roads and highways would be closed until the snow melts. This seasonal closure can actually work for your retreat, by providing cheap security–filtering to just a tiny number of Sno-cats and snowmobiles with any possible access. I will leave discussion of snowmobiles, sleighs, and dog teams to an expert.

What you need:
Skis & Ski climbing (skins and/or wax and klister)
Boots
Sled
Collapsible shovel
Sleeping gear
High calorie foods
Powerful stove

You must become comfortable with your gear experience is the best way. I started with surplus Ramer bindings and upgraded to Silveretta 300s using military double chamber touring skis. Some prefer Telemark bindings over the randonee bindings. I stayed with the double chamber to take advantage of using climbing wax,
turning was not a major concern since I was not planning to be a sport user. I bought about 10 sets of military synthetic Ramer brand strap on skins at $5 a pair and
converted several to sticky on. There may be much better gear on the market now see if you can rent from a shop before you buy. Plastic mountaineering boots are warm comfortable and you can carry several liners if they get wet, assuming that you are sleeping warm you can take the liners into your sleeping bag. A mountaineering boot is designed for crampon use or direct walking on rock and ice for extended periods of time almost all have a hiking boot type vibram sole. While they are not the ideal for sport skiing control, a randonee binding is designed to fit this type of boot.

Your sled can be anything from a long kids sled and rope (better if you put PVC pipe extenders to a belt for downhill control) to expensive rescue or military models the better the sled the longer the life and usually easier to control in a downhill mode. [JWR Adds: For a team of four or more people, the large U.S. Army “Ahkio” sled is excellent. They can occasionally be found at DRMO auctions at military posts like Sierra Army Depot; California; Fort Carson, Colorado; Fort Drum, New York; and Fort Greeley, Alaska.]

The packable snow shovel a back country skiers friend dig you a nice burrow into the snow so you stay cozy no matter how cold it gets, digs out avalanche victims, and helps make igloo blocks. Be careful and build a safe snow cave. If you like snow caves a Goretex bivvy bag is a good way to keep your sleeping bag dry, don’t forget an insulating layer (foam, thermarest, pine boughs, cardboard, etc). If you prefer a tent be sure it is a true four season tent, designed to withstand heavy snow and wind.
High calorie foods with lots of fats and protein are important in winter ops both for warmth and endurance. High protein and fat diets will require much higher water intake to metabolize. A Camelbak worn over your belly and sipped regularly is ideal. BTW, a gulp of olive oil before bed raises your body temp a little to
digest keeping you warm at night. Water generation in a snow-covered environment is harder than it sounds. Forget eating snow it is water negative once you calculate the calories required for your body to melt and heat it. Consider it a worthless junk food. To melt snow you must carry a pot and a proper stove. The MSR series especially the XGK are made for blasting snow into water in a few minutes and they burn like an F-14’s engine ready for a carrier catapult launch! Use large stainless steel camp set pot if possible because there is a potential for dry spots at first and aluminum may burn, adding melted water helps spread the heat much faster.

An Aside: Bunny Socks
As almost nobody packs enough wool socks to last forever remember that rabbit skin after it is washed and tanned can be worn with the fur side to the feet, to winterize a pair of boots–especially in the absence of proper socks. These also make inner moccasins for your outer leathers if you have to make your own boots.

A SurvivalBlog Reader at Front Sight, by The Wanderer

Where to begin? I have to preface this letter by thanking you for making me aware of Front Sight Resorts. I had heard of it before, but had not understood the value that waits, nor the reality of the training. This is the best investment I have made.
I decided to take a Four Day Defensive Handgun class at Front Sight. I found myself second-guessing my investment of both money and time away from work/family. The concern of the investment ended as soon as I met the staff. Talk about Qualified! Let’s say Over Qualified. I don’t want to get into details as it would not be coming from a professional that is trained to teach like only the professionals at Front Sight can do.
I would say that I started the course with “an appreciation” and “hobbyist” type handgun shooter mentality. I can guarantee that I had fired less than 1,500 rounds through a handgun before heading to the course.
In the course, constructed of lecture, tactical, hands on, and firing type curriculum, we went through approximately 850 rounds of ammo bringing my totals to a modest 2,350 rounds ever fired through a handgun of which I had only fired 150 rounds through the weapon/tool that I took to the course before enrolling! (As a side note, I very much give you the advice of taking a Glock brand handgun for this course simply for maximum benefit). Other type handguns were very specific on how you perform tactics and safety. It freed up time to focus on the training and not be distracted by the numerous operations of other type handguns such as Berettas. (You can rent a gun while there as well.)
The days are very intense, not information overload, but information sponge! This is priceless instruction. I can guarantee that my instructors were the perfect marriage for any type learning, thus giving you maximum retention. I felt that I had received my “money’s worth” in the first two days. In enrolling in the four day course, I soon realized that if you make the commitment to go to Front Sight, make it a full commitment and go for four days. I went from basics to Professional by staying the additional two days.
Here are some tips for when you go, (not if you go).
1. Flush your pride down the toilet before you attend
2. Focus on the reason you are there
3. Realize that everything you learn WILL benefit you and your loved ones
4. Use your ears, not your mouth while there
5. Realize that there are only a handful of professionals at the course. (The instructors, not you)
6. YOU WILL MAKE HUGE GAINS in knowledge, tactics, and marksmanship.
7. Just because Las Vegas is close does not mean you go there while in training!
8. Every night’s sleep is too short. You wake up practicing, you think about what you’ve learned, you anticipate the next day. There is no time for partying!
9. Plan scientific meals. (I took current Issue MREs) for lunch. The energy this provided me gave me an advantage in retention and ability.
10. Dry Practice EVERY night.
11. Set a goal, achieve it or surpass it as I did.
12. You may feel intimidated by your peers, (So What). Will you not feel intimidated by a potential assailant? Our group ranged from the basic service type jobs to Doctors, Attorneys, SWAT Team Members, Policemen, EMTs, and Housewives.
13. Every student is one more person that may save your life some day, give them respect, give them advice, take their advice. We all have the same goals!
14. Many students were returning students, (some on their fourth visit to this particular course. Some came from as far away as New York). Thus giving relevance to obtaining a membership in which you can attend specific classes as many times as you like for the rest of your life.
15. Practice Perfect Practice. I did this at a speed in which I was slower than everyone else, but on testing day, the speed came naturally as the technique was perfected. I was awarded “Distinguished Graduate” on my first course to Front Sight, performing at 90% or more in the tactics and shooting tests. I believe there were four others awarded likewise. Some of the Distinguished Graduates were returning students during our week.
16. Block out distractions. (Make a plan, and have someone cover your job, family life, etc. for you). I did not take my cell phone to Front Sight ever. I saw many getting distracted and missing valuable information for whatever reason.
17. Make a commitment towards ongoing practice/ training. You could be a Rambo one day, and a bumbling idiot the next. Learn, practice = retention.

I would love to give specifics, as these are countless. But in doing so, I could be poisoning the well. Go there with an open mind; be ready to change your techniques. You will come away with more benefit in just a few days than you could possibly ever imagine. I now have a confidence that I have never felt before, and best of all; I feel that I owe it to my family. I know that I will be there for them. – The Wanderer

David in Israel on Flashlights and Batteries

For a non tactical flashlight (momentary/click button on bottom) I prefer the Underwater Kinetics flashlight. These use four size AA batteries.They are widely used as firefighter helmet lights and survive well, even in fire/ground abuse environments. I try to keep everything standardized to AA and have a large stock of NiMH and lithium-ion rechargeables around. For long term kit storage the comments about 9 VDC lithium is right on, AA lithium batteries are also available in the camera section and can be expected to last much longer in storage than alkalines. I try to avoid CR-123 tactical and laser gear as both the rechargeable and disposable cells are quite expensive.

JWR Adds: Underwater Kinetics also makes some very rugged Pelican-style hard cases.

Letter Re: Shelf Life of NiMH Batteries?

JWR,
There have been a few posts about batteries lately and a question I have been unable to find an answer to is:

Do Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries have a limited storage life before they are put into service (receive their first electric charge)? It would be nice to know if I can buy a quantity and store them away until needed. I’ve not seen this addressed anywhere and maybe you know or one of your readers knows the answer. Regards, – Keith

JWR Replies: That goes beyond my base of knowledge.  Would any readers care to chime in on this one?

Note From JWR:

Note from JWR:  Please help boost the worldwide readership of SurvivalBlog. We now have readers in 40+ countries!  (See:  http://clustrmaps.com/counter/maps.php?url=https://survivalblog.com ) Please tell all of your friends and relatives that live overseas about the blog, especially ex-pats, and deployed military service members. And for those of you in the corporate world, please tell your co-workers that are at off-shore centers. Thanks!

Letter From David in Israel Re: Fire Protection for Log Homes

James,
In response to The Army Aviator: Sodium silicate a.k.a. waterglass might be able to make wood water resistant. I would treat a shingle and then test it with a blow torch.

I am a big proponent of Barricade gel which is the same dry gel which is in baby diapers. (See: http://www.barricadegel.com/ ) It was available in a home protection kit and is probably the next best thing to a house-sized fire shelter but for a much lower price. The only problem is that Barricade needs to be sprayed on around 24 hours before the flames come. Otherwise it will dry out and become less effective. – David

Letter Re: Seeking Advice on 27 Year Old Storage Food

Jim,
I apologize if you’ve already covered this in previous archives – I searched several, but not all, of your blog archives. I did see your comment, “Wheat stores for 20+ years…” I have a LOT of wheat purchased in 1979 after reading Howard Ruff’s “How to Prosper During the Coming Bad Years.” I have other items – Navy and other types of beans. It is by Neo-Life, “NEST” storage, “Nitro-Guard” protection – it was stored in #10 cans purged with with nitrogen. So it is all 25+ years old. I have been storing this stuff in my basement, which is cool and mostly dry, on 2×4’s up off the floor. I keep the humidity below 40% with a de-humidifier. My question is, have these items lost enough of their nutrition value to where it would be a waste of time trying to use them? My wife wants to throw it all out, and I probably will, unless you someone can point me to a source that would say this stuff is probably still good to use. Surprisingly, “Google” has failed me this time – I spent several hours looking for an answer, to no avail (I have used Google for literally hundreds of searches and it almost always gets the information I need.) What do you think? – Mike from Chicago

JWR Replies: Some items like salt will store for centuries as long as they are not contaminated by the rust or decay of their containers. If stored dry, hard red winter wheat still retains 98% of it nutritive value after 20 years. Ditto for sugar or honey. Most dehydrated foods, (such as rice, beans, TVP, and the ubiquitous Neo-Life Stroganoff) will have lost too much nutritive value to be useful after 27 years, even if they were nitrogen packed.  They might still be palatable, but unless you are dieting, what is the use of eating them if they have lost 90% of their nutritive value? My advice:  If in doubt, throw it out. Ideally, you should continuously rotate your storage food to avoid such waste. If nothing else, mark the cans/cases of your subsequent batches of storage food, so that you can religiously use the oldest lots first.

One tidbit of trivia for you:  Some wheat that was found in an Egyptian pharaoh’s tomb. A small fraction of it still sprouted after 2,600 years. If you have any canned gardening seeds, try them out.  The sprouting yields will be low, but there could be some marginal utility there. Just don’t expend too much effort tilling and tending those those rows in your garden!  BTW, the same logic applies to canned sprouting seeds.

Letter Re: Advice on When to Sell Silver?

Dear Mr. Rawles,
I read on The Claire Files that you think silver will be going to $40 an ounce. My spouse and I can’t agree when we should sell our 8,000 ounces of silver. I think we should hang on to it all until it gets to $20 and ounce then sell. But my spouse thinks we should start selling now. What do you think? By the way, we purchased most of it at $5 an ounce in the form of 100 ounce bars. We also have about a bag and a half of “junk” silver dimes.- F.L.

JWR Replies:  First, you need to distinguish between a core holding (for barter), and what you bought for investment purposes. My advice is to sell your family core holding–perhaps 800 to 1,500 ounces–only as a last resort. As for the rest, be dispassionate about selling it. Don’t try to time the top of the market. Since spot silver is currently at around $9.80/oz., (and it was recently $10.18) so it is has essentially doubled since you bought it. At present, you could sell half of it and recoup your original investment, and still be sitting on 4,000 ounces at essentially no cost. (BTW, don’t forget to consider both taxes and the “opportunity cost” of missing out on the interest that you would have otherwise earned in a dollar-denominated investment during he same years that you held the silver.)

There is an old saying on Wall Street: “Bulls make money, and bears make money, but pigs get slaughtered.” If you wait until silver hits some magic/arbitrary number, you might miss the peak, and hence get slaughtered when the metals go back into a bear market cycle. That is what happened to a lot of folks, back around 1981. When silver ran up past $35 an ounce, they decided to hold on “a little while longer.” Oink oink. Big mistake. They should have gradually averaged their way out, during the second half of the the run-up.

Based on my assumption that you have 80 bars (100 ounce bars) that had a purchase cost of $500 each, here is my specific advice on when to sell:

Core holding: (All of your circulated “junk” coin bags.) Hold and don’t sell unless you are in desperate need.

Silver exceeds $10 per ounce:  Sell 8 bars.($8,000)

Silver exceeds $12 per ounce:  Sell another 8 bars. ($9,600)

Silver exceeds $15 per ounce:  Sell another 8 bars. ($12,000)

Silver exceeds $20 per ounce (4x cost):  Sell another 8 bars. ($16,000.) This gets you past your “break even” point on your original investment. Everything past this will be gravy.

Silver exceeds $25 per ounce:  Sell another 16 bars. ($40,000)

Silver exceeds $30 per ounce:  Sell another 16 bars. ($48,000)

Silver exceeds $40 per ounce (8x cost):  Sell your last 16 bars.($64,000)

Even if silver crashes after passing $20 per ounce, you will still have recouped your original investment and have 48 bars (4,800 ounces) of silver remaining. But if silver runs up past $40 per ounce, you will have $197,600 in cash. Not bad for a $40,000 investment!.

Odds ‘n Sods

I’m down in Reno this weekend for the The Big Reno Show. Quite a gun show! All quality gear–no flea market Schumer. I dropped by the table run by Darryl Holland (of Holland’s of Oregon), and sent him home a Browning A-Bolt bolt action rifle for “the usual” treatment:  I have him thread the muzzles of all of our hunting rifles with 1/2″ x 28 threads for a Holland’s muzzle brake. The same threads can also be used for Smith Enterprise Vortex flash hiders. This way the rifles can serve double duty as tactical guns. I highly recommend that you do likewise. OBTW, I also highly recommend all of Darryl Holland’s gunsmithing services and videos. And I also have his cheek rest stock pouches on five of the rifles up at the ranch.

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The U.S. HHS‘s reserved view on the flu: http://www.pandemicflu.gov/

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A warning from The American Spectator about war with Iran: http://www.spectator.org/blogger.asp?BlogID=2198

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SurvivalBlog reader Steve H. recommends this source for inexpensive 9 VDC Lithium batteries ($2.50 each), and numerous others in all sizes and types. http://www.cheapbatteries.com

Letter Re: Question on Dried Foods Versus Dehydrated Storage Foods

Jim,
Is there any difference between dried food and dehydrated food, and if there is, what is the difference? – G.P.

JWR Replies: I’m glad that you asked that, because it is often a point of confusion. Although semantically they mean the same thing, the difference is that “dehydrated” storage foods typically are dried to a greater extent than typical dried foods–such as the raisins and other dried fruits that are sold at your local grocery store. However, due to their lower moisture content and because they are usually sold in sealed, nitrogen-packed, cans makes them store for several years instead of just a few months. Also, don’t forget that “dehydrated” is far different than freeze drying, which can result in even longer storage life, particularly if canned.

Letter Re: Alternative to Creosote for Preserving Wood?

James:
I have taken a leave and am now caught back up on the blog. I was away and talked to my wife every night and she always stated that I must be going crazy not reading SurvivalBlog every night! She was right! Upon returning home, did I return my calls, e-mails, or mail first,.hardly, it was a crash course of GBID (get back into Dodge) mentally by reading what I had missed on Survivalblog. A few topics have arisen that I wanted to comment on (FWIW).

FENCING/CREOSOTE/TELEPHONE POLES-
I have had the benefit of picking the pocket of an old timer that owns and operates a saw mill. He states that the unique properties of White Oak offer a huge resistance to insects and rot. He gives a 15 year “warranty” on 4″ diameter and larger posts. He claims to get 25 years out of a 6″ post. Both buried in the ground with no topical treatment process. He recommended adding gravel at the base and around the post for added longevity.
He also mentioned that longer lengths are getting harder to get, (i.e.- 16 feet). The disadvantage is the hardness of the item. In a cattle/livestock operation he almost instantly recommended the soft wood poplar or cottonwood as good (give/take) type fences. Not hard and brittle, but fairly resilient.
I know that utility companies are pulling out the “evil” creosote poles and replacing with green treated or chromated copper arsenate (CCA) impregnated posts. These are very inadequate comparably. Talk to your local utilities. Ask if you can get on the list to receive these used poles for next to nothing or free. You may have to sign a waiver that you will not hold the company responsible if you use these for structural purposes, (i.e.- Morton building), etc.
I personally can attest that the worst part of these poles is the part that is highest in the air. You can typically get four very heavy duty corner posts out of each pole. Not to mention the copper staples and wire that is still attached to them for reclaiming at the steel yard.
Another thought just came to mind. In the event of TEOTWAWKI, communication lines would likely be down. If running long strands of hardwire, (such as field phones, intercoms, etc.) Why not use ultimate caution and attach your wire to the “worthless” utility company poles until a later time when you can “trench” in your wire? You may be able to connect to a neighbor or a far end of your property without the labor of digging a lengthy trench to bury the wire in. This could get you up and running very quickly rather than weeks of excavation. Safety would have to be a must, instead of using a ladder that you can reach up to the danger height of electrical wire contact, dedicate a short ladder that gets your communication wire just above reaching height without the inherent dangers of contacting the power lines. This suggestion of course is a last recourse and is intended to be of benefit to you in the event of a GRID DOWN situation where the power lines would likely have been rendered inert. Please use your head.

SURVIVAL GAME-
A fellow blog reader mentioned something about a survival game. I have purchased one and am not giving it my recommendation yet, but would be interested in knowing if the information is in fact accurate and applicable. The name of the game is: “The Worst-Case Scenario Game” by University Games. It has approximately 600 questions that are noteworthy if accurate. My family very much enjoys playing the game, however we find more enjoyment in just reading the cards as almost no one scores well. (This is a good thing as we are learning from it). Even the repeat questions are a good thing. I would recommend separating the cards into four equal groups. Wrap a rubber band around each of the four. Put three bundles of cards into a Ziploc baggie, and concentrate on the first group. It may prove more retention if the same card is asked twice at some point. This keeps things interesting for all age groups.

THE RECENT INTERNET DISCUSSIONS ON MULCH-
I have read varying opinions on the reality of the warnings about landscaping mulch coming from the disease and termite infested regions of New Orleans, or other such disaster affected areas. A person would be ignorant to think that micro-organisms could not exist in a plastic bag that is placed in the sun for weeks and delivered across the U.S.A. Last time I opened a bag of mulch, it was soaked with condensation, (prime breeding grounds for disease in my opinion). What the extent of these organisms are, would be, or could be, are open for discussion. I don’t know if termites could survive the packaging/processing, but it IS possible in my opinion (i.e.- tears in bags). This cause for concern should follow right into purchasing vehicles, appliances, furniture, or any used home furnishings that may emerge from disaster areas. Do the research, eBay can be great, ask for a copy of the title or registration, and verify that this vehicle was not registered in those regions.

Again, wishes of success during your transition into full time blogging. It is a selfish wish along with a supportive wish. The practical information I receive does not have a dollar amount on it. Thank You! – The Wanderer