Note From JWR: During the month of May, we are auctioning the last remaining new autographed copy of my novel “Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse” from the inventory at Survival Enterprises. The proceeds of the auction will benefit the SurvivalBlog bandwidth fund. The names of the bidders (including the winning bidder) will be kept anonymous. The opening is bid is just $5. Please e-mail your bids, in $1 increments. The current bidding will be mentioned in our “Odd’s ‘n Sods” entries. Our special thanks to Kurt and Angie Wilson of Survival Enterprises for sponsoring this contest. BTW, be sure to visit their web site to see their great line of competitively priced food storage and health supplement products.
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Two Letters Re: Folding Fighting/Utility Knife Recommendations?
Sir,
I cannot speak higher praise than for the Benchmade line of folding knives, specifically those with the Axis Lock mechanism.
$100 may seem steep to some for a folding pocket knife, but its one of two tools I use every single day, and potentially might have to trust my life to some day. The only folding blade I’ve found with a lock I trust that much is the axis.
The two specific models I favor are the Ares and the AFCK. I have done things with these knives one should probably never attempt with a folder, but they continue to go strong. As always, thank you for the insight and information you offer through SurvivalBlog. – Pat R.
Jim,
I’ve been making and selling knives for 25 years, and you’re spot on with folders. They’re easy to keep on the person, convenient, generally not seen as weapons, and sturdy enough with modern materials to be quite useful. CRKT is one of the best values for the money. Cold Steel is a little pricier. Benchmade and Emerson are top of the line, since the CUDA line was largely discontinued by Camillus.
I wouldn’t rule out all the imports. Even some of the Chinese ones are decent. However, that’s the catch–some of them (I’m not thrilled at supporting the Chinese, but price speaks to so many people. I stock them to pay the bills). It takes a moderate amount of experience to know a good one. Check for smooth function. Easy isn’t necessarily good if it doesn’t lock open or closed with authority, and fit and finish should be near perfect. Look at how the blade is ground and the balance, and
compare to known quality. For people on a budget, there are knives in the $10-30 range that are near as good as name brand. But I’d check with a knowledgeable person to be sure (I’ll always answer questions, even in regards to stuff I don’t sell, BTW). But if in doubt, save up and go with the name brand. Your life is too important for second rate tools.
On fixed blades, Ontario Spec Plus are US made, no-nonsense (no saw teeth, hollow handles, gimmicks or gadgets. Just honest carbon steel with a solid handle) and very reasonable–most are available under $50 from dealers, no more than $80 on the largest. They have both a Crash Axe which is standard on most aircraft, and exceptional for breaking
through wreckage (on cars, too), and a survival machete with a chisel tip. I like the 14 inch tanto and the “fighting knife” (though I’ve never fought with one, it’s an excellent utility blade) that they offer.
On larger folders or fixed blades, I would avoid stainless steel. Few of the commercially used stainless steels are tough enough to withstand chopping or prying. AUS 8 and ATS 34 hold up decently, and while not completely stainless, are certainly enough so to reduce maintenance. Avoid 440 and 420 stainless steels in anything longer than 4 inches. They were not originally intended for cutlery, and are quite brittle in long sections. (440 C is a marine bearing steel. It can take outrageous
amounts of saltwater and holds a good edge, but will not flex under stress. It shatters.) – Michael Z. Williamson
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Letter Re: Untapped North American Oil Reserves are Providential
Jim:
Regarding US dependence on oil, and all of our concerns about it, I have done a little research on it. My conclusion is that the liberals inadvertently saved us some reserves by blocking the removal of oil in some of our largest reserves; the US also has 77 percent of the world’s oil shale reserve. This along with the reserves in Canada (the second largest oil reserve in the world) should put the US in good field position for years to come. See:
http://www.news10.net/storyfull2.aspx?storyid=17270
http://www.news10.net/video/player2.aspx?aid=27196
http://home.earthlink.net/~oilandyou/
http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0872964.html
If there is a collapse it won’t be based on the lack of this natural resource. I think the Good Lord has provided us His providence in this area. 2 Timothy 2:15 – John Z.
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Odds ‘n Sods:
SurvivalBlog reader R.V. mentioned that Hollywood’s anxiety piece on the Asian Avian Flu will air on May 9th. Any guesses on its impact on food storage vendors? Hmmmm… If you’ve been procrastinating, then you’d better get your orders in soon.
o o o
I just noticed that a gent with whom I’ve corresponded for several years (and also a SurvivalBlog reader) currently has a few nifty items for sale on eBay.
o o o
There is an interesting thread on the FAL Files about heavy duty 20 liter gas cans made by Briggs and Stratton, and stabilizing gas for storage.
o o o
The petroleum supply situation was already bad enough with Columbian and Nigerian instability. Now Bolivia is threatening to nationalize foreign-owned oil operations if they don’t sign new contracts within six months. Bolivian president Evo Morales just ordered Bolivian Army units to occupy these natural gas production facilities.
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"Defeat is not the worst of failures. Not to have tried is the true failure." – George E. Woodberry
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Note From JWR:
We just returned from a weekend trip down to Salt Lake City, where I had a couple or tables at the Crossroads of the West gun show. Meanwhile, the Memsahib and our kids availed themselves of the outstanding LDS Family History Library, just west of Temple Square.
It was great pleasure meeting so many SurvivalBlog readers face to face at the gun show. Thanks for your kind words of encouragement for the blog’s success. One thing that struck me was that 2/3s of the people who said that they had read my novel “Patriots”also said that they hadn’t yet heard about SurvivalBlog. Please spread the word about SurvivalBlog to everyone you know who has read my novel.
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Letter Re: Advice of Shotgun Shells and Shot Sizes
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I look forward to reading your blog every day.
One of the nice things about a shotgun is the wide variety of ammo available for them, but that does bring up a question: what type of shells should one stock up on? I currently keep about an even mix of 00 buckshot (primarily for defense)
and #8-bird-shot (for practice, pest control & small-game hunting). I also have a small quantity of slugs, but not many; I figure that a situation that would best be served with a slug would be even better served with a rifle. Do you think my mix is alright? I would appreciate any input you and/or my fellow blog readers would wish to add. Best Wishes, – James K.
JWR Replies: The ratio of shells with various shot sizes will depend on what sort of hunting you plan to do, and whether your shotgun will be your primary defensive long gun.
For two legged predators, I generally prefer #4 buckshot. (Not to be confused with the more commonly available #4 bird shot which is much smaller.) Why? With most commercial 00 buckshot loads, each 2-3/4″ shell only contains 9 pellets of roughly .33 caliber. With #4 buck you get around 27 pellets of .24 caliber. Thus, your chances of getting multiple vital organ hits are much better with #4 buckshot.
BTW, the foregoing advice does not apply if you live in bear or wolf country. For large predators, you’ll want the better penetration provided by 00 buckshot, 000 buckshot, or slugs.
Letter from “RBS” Re: Supporting SurvivalBlog and Developing a Second Stream of Income
For those of you that have come to find SurvivalBlog.Com a daily read and would also find the Internet just not as fun a place without it, might I suggest an easy way to generate the requested donation of $36 per year (or just 10 cents a day) to keep it going strong.
Sell something on eBay or other commerce site (there are plenty!) [and take $36.50 of the proceeds] and send it to JWR. It’s an easy and effective way of killing several “birds” with one stone. First, you will be supporting your favorite web site. Second, the money you send in will not have to come out of your pocket directly. As an example, let’s say you have an older laptop that is just gathering dust and end up selling it for $100.00. You can take a portion of the proceeds minus the listing and selling fees (which are reasonable for the most part) and make the contribution. In this way, it will not cause a major financial disruption if you are following a tight budget. It’s a way of generating funds without having to feel it come out of your monthly paycheck. You will have the satisfaction of supporting what you value–SurvivalBlog.com.
We all have extra “stuff” lying around our homes and garages, that are just taking up space. Its a great way to clean up the place and get some money out of it at the same time. Another advantage to this is that if you have never sold anything on eBay before it will give you the much needed incentive to do so. EBay is an easy and always growing worldwide market for anything you can imagine that can be bought or sold. For millions of people its the perfect home based business that is easy to start and requires but a few things which as a computer user and reader of this site, you probably already have like a PC and a digital camera, etc.
There are dozens of books and other media that can help you get started and avoid making major mistakes etc doing e-commerce, and without really knowing it, you have just started on your way to creating a way of having a second income. I have recently started back on eBay after an absence. I plan to do this full time as soon as I can get up and running as my “full-time” yet close to minimum wage job is probably now marked for a “downsizing” thanks to the economy and a host of other changes which I have absolutely no control over. Additionally, my education and experience are apparently not in demand. With that in mind, I have decided to start being proactive in the matter.
Although I have a background in communications, advertising and technology, it does not require this kind of knowledge to use the Internet to your advantage. All that is really needed are the THREE “D”‘s: DESIRE to change your current situation, DETERMINATION to learn new skills and develop new talents, and DEDICATION to stick with it and learn what is needed. Oh, and there is a fourth “D” that comes in handy as well, The desire to eliminate DEBT!
As readers of this site, I would advise considering doing something like this now so that you can be up and running with an alternative cash flow should a sudden shock come to our economy. Regardless, its time to start supporting this blog. Sincerely, – RBS
#1 Son’s Qoute of the Day:
"For want of a nail, the shoe was lost;
For want of the shoe, the horse was lost;
For want of the horse, the rider was lost;
For want of the rider, the battle was lost;
For want of the battle, the kingdom was lost;
And all for the want of a horseshoe nail." – Benjamin Franklin
Note From JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 4 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best contest entry will win a four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. The deadline for entries for Round 4 is May 31, 2006.
Thoughts On Disaster Survival, by Mel in Texas
I live in Texas so this is on my mind. But could be relative to anything…
Thoughts On Disaster Survival
1. Have a bug-out kit ready at all times.
2. Renew supplies in your bug-out kit on a regular basis.
3. Plan on needing a LOT more supplies than you think.
4. In a real emergency, forget about last-minute purchases.
5. Make sure your vehicle will carry your essential supplies.
6. A big bug-out vehicle can be a handicap.
7. Make sure you have a bug-out place handy.
8. Provide entertainment for younger children.
9. Pack essentials first, then luxuries.
10. Don’t plan on fuel being available en route.
11. Have enough money with you for at least two weeks.
12. Don’t be sure that a disaster will be short-term.
13. Don’t rely on government-run shelters if at all possible.
14. Warn your friends not to bring others with them!!!
15. Have account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions.
16. Have portable weapons and ammo ready (close at hand.)
Update 1
1. Route selection is very, very important.
2. The social implications of a disaster situation. (not ‘politically correct’, but dismiss at your peril)
3. Implications for security.
4. “Too many chiefs, not enough Indians” in New Orleans.
5. Long-term vision.
6. Personal emergency planning.
7. The “bank problem.” If yours is a local bank and all are under water, for example, checks are unverifiable (read: worthless)
8. Helping one’s friends is likely to prove expensive.
Update 2
1. People who were prepared were frequently mobbed/threatened by those who weren’t.
2. When help gets there, you may get it whether you like it or not.
3. There seems to be a cumulative psychological effect upon survivors.
4. There is widespread frustration over the lack of communication and empathy by rescuers and local/State government.
5. Expect rescuers (including law enforcement) to enforce a distinctly un-Constitutional authority in a disaster situation.
6. Don’t believe that rescuers are all knights in shining armor who will respect your property.
Update 3
1. If you choose to help, you may be sucked into a bureaucratic and legal nightmare.
2. Law enforcement problems will often be “glossed over” and/or ignored by authorities.
3. Your personal and/or corporate supplies and facilities may be commandeered without warning, receipt or compensation.
4. If you look like you know what you’re doing, you may be a target of those less prepared. (*IMPORTANT!*)
5. Those who thought themselves safe from the disaster were often not safe from refugees.
6. Self-reliance seems to draw suspicion upon you from the authorities.
7. Relief workers from other regions and States often don’t know local laws.
8. Relief organizations have their own bureaucratic requirements that may conflict with your needs.
Letter Re: Angst and Stocking Up
Hello Jim,
There has been a lot of chatter recently about a gut feeling that “Something Wicked This Way Comes.” I share that uneasy feeling and note that many of my business associates and I have begun to prepare for hard times.
For myself, I’ve accelerated a bit on topping off my retreat supplies. Some recent additions include 500 pounds of Buffalo meat (at a cost of $2.09 a pound for yearling grain fed Buffalo heifer, cut, double wrapped and frozen.)
I’ve had one of my M1A type rifles rebuilt to competition standards, added a case of 12 gauge 00 buckshot to my inventory and procured some peripheral items. Keep the faith, – Dutch in Wyoming
Two Letters Re: Ponds, Aquiculture, and Pond Predators
Hey James,
I have been pondering (pun intended) bioponics (AKA aquaponics) for a couple of years now. A seminal site, http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/index.html, describes bioponics as “A simple and innovative system of food production combining aquaculture and hydroponic growing techniques without expensive equipment” or the use of mineral nutrient salts.
Here’s how it works. Water from the fish tank is pumped to grow beds. In addition to crops, the grow beds contain naturally produced bacteria. The bacteria breaks down the fish waste thus cleaning the water. The plants feed on the nitrogen produced by the bacteria. Finally, the water is drained back to the fish tank.
There is a reasonable amount of info on the net about bioponics including plans for simplified hobby systems, which would allow you to get your feet wet before taking the plunge (puns likewise intended). I would suggest, however, searching on aquaponics instead of bioponics. Best Regards, – d’Heat
Dear Jim:
In response to the Pond, Aquaculture, and Pond Predators letter from The Wanderer, I suggest the first thing to read on the subject of fish farming for food for survivalists is this timeless article: http://www.kurtsaxon.com/foods007.htm and
http://www.kurtsaxon.com/foods006.htm
In response to the questions posed, briefly:
1). What type of fish replenish the most rapidly while offering a genuine nutrition?
The “ugly” fish, meaning types of catfish and carp, tend to be the easier and better to fish farm. Most “game” fish are messy. They eat a lot and create a lot of waste, thus you either must be flushing in fresh water regularly, or you can’t expect much density or production.
I’m sure most people think right away of raising trout http://www.sevenpinesfishery.com/Fish.html , and you can do it http://www.aquahabitat.com/, just realize the costs and limitations. For those of you on the East US coast, see this site.
Do a search, and find one near you, in your state or region.
2). What types of fish are compatible or necessary to keep a full circle eco-system continuing?
Catfish, carp, koi, goldfish, are the easiest, though I was told goldfish eat Koi eggs. So do some research on which ones cohabitate well. Contact a fish farm supplier in your state and see what other varieties are legal and would work well in your area. You can mail order fish, they ship them in hyper oxygenated water boxes.
IMHO, it’s the bottom feeders you want, and they tend to be net-benefit fish, that they make the water cleaner rather than dirtier. Still, you need some new water. Commercially, I believe they try and flush 5% of the water each day, taking from the bottom if possible as the toxins tend to be heavier and settle. It’s those nitrates you want out. Ideally, in a closed system, you would want to pump (by windmill or whatever means) water from the pond over a little wetland area with nutrient absorbing plants to help get out the fish wastes. Water hyacinth, a free floating plant, is especially good at this. You should also aerate and agitate it, and most backyard ponds do this by waterfalls. The best system for this, IMHO, which tries to work with nature, instead of against it with chemicals, is http://www.aquascapedesigns.com Now remember, this is more of a yuppie thing, not raw survivalism, and yes the stuff can get pricy.
Also note – the nitrates you flush out of our fish pond, can make great irrigation fertilizer. Suck gently from the bottom, use a gravity system if possible.
3). How many fish can you support per cubic yard of water?
That depends. There is an expensive mini-commercial system where you can raise 50 pounds of fish in only 400 gallons – but keep in mind the costs involved in doing so. Again, how fresh, and how aerated are you keeping the water, that’s the key.
4). Should food be introduced into the water until the young are established?
Food should be introduced all the time if you want any reasonable production in a smaller pond. If fish aren’t fed, they don’t grow very fast. I like the idea of having a worm farm for garage, and then feed the worms to the fish. Also remember, there is an optimal harvest size for each fish, and it’s usually short of “full grown”. Fisherman know that it usually isn’t the trophy lunker that actually makes the good tasting shore lunch.
5). What predators, (i.e.- ground/air living) would be a potential food source or havoc on your newly established “ecosystem”.
Raccoons if your pond is very small. Birds – blue herons in particular. Many of the birds that eat fish of some size are of course protected species, so if you have a real problem, consider a bird net over the pond. – Rourke
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"A man has got to know his limitations." – Clint Eastwood
From David In Israel: On Passive Solar Water Heating
James
After Passover the weather in Israel always turns hot and clear. Perfect weather to save money.
American hot water heating is always on and is always wasting electricity or gas.
Passive solar is cheap and simple plus it can be supplemented with electrical on cold days.
It is law that every home have a passive solar water heater so I get to see the design on every house,
being in the West Bank I also see that the Arab homes and mansions will always have at least one dud shemesh (sun water heater)
If a commercial model is too expensive the construction would be simple and cheap: The collector is about 1.5M x..75M x 7-to-8cm deep panel placed at the lowest south facing part of the roof. Hoses carry the water up to the “dud” or tank which is as high as possible on the roof Israeli tanks are insulated, cheaper Arab models are simple black plastic tanks on stilts. Convection carries colder water from the bottom of the tank into the collector and hot water rises to the upper intake on the tank. On cold winter days we set the timer to run the immersion heater built in to the tank as on days near freezing the heater barely produces luke-warm water.
A wood framed glass paned collector with Black painted PVC pipe would likely make a great collector and a plastic barrel would probably make a good tank with a little Bondo work, similar to the Arab heaters.
Insulating the tank would make for warm water in the early morning. If a tank were suspended above the chimney it might be able to grab a few more precious BTUs from the hot gasses during the winter, get creative and let us know. Israeli water heaters will run near boiling. It is possibly easier to heat and insulate a small amount of very hot water than large tanks of less hot water.
On a related note: Your body also a solar collector. Avoid heat related injury. Remember that as hot weather approaches to keep hydrated!! If your urine is not clear and colorless you do not have a sufficient internal water storage and you are storing up toxins that your body wants to eliminate. Make a pre-hydrated body part of your survival kit!
You should always have at least a liter of water in your hand in your pack or next to you even when you are inside.