"The essence of war is violence. Moderation in war is imbecility. – Admiral Sir John A. Fisher
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Kicked by a Mule – An Introduction to Tactical Shotguns by Shooter
We spent an evening back in June working on our tactical shotgun drills. Everyone brought their preferred shotgun, and the instructor ran us through the basics of Tactical Shotgunning.
I was really impressed to learn that most everyone was carrying a Remington 870 in one configuration or another. It is a very popular shotgun. Sturdy and robust, and like a Jeep, very easy to modify and improve. I was the only one carrying in the “anti-aircraft howitzer” mode, which is to say that I brought my goose gun with 28″ of max choke power. Everyone else had shorter barrels sans choke with extended magazine tubes and Side Saddle carriers and slings. There were a couple of home defense Rambos in our group who sported the neat Sure-Fire pump action light on the fore grip. Nobody had folding stocks or pistol grips, everyone fired from the shoulder.
This was a basic getting to know your gun class. We spent time working from various stages of carry. Instructor Greg stayed away from the “stage 1, stage 2, etc.” lingo and focused on simple vernacular that could not be misinterpreted. After learning how to load, charge the magazine, and chamber check, we went to work on firing from different stages of carry.
The instructor mentioned there are a wide variety of shotguns out there, and there is no one single military designated, tried and true shotgun on the market whose technology has carried over to the consumer. This means that shotguns are prone to Negligent Discharge (ND)/Accidental Discharge (AD) problems and extra safety is needed in handling them. He stressed normal carry modes that would leave the chamber empty but the magazine full.
First Carry Method: Transport Mode. Real simple, this is the way you carry a shotgun in your car from place to place. Basically, if you are not going to use the shotgun while in the car, the magazine should be clear and the chamber clear as well. Tension should be off the firing pin and the action closed.
Second Carry Method: Carry Mode. This is for the time you are carrying a shotgun in the field, home defense, on your person, whatever. Using a sling, the shotgun is stored on your weak shoulder with the muzzle down. Have a fully charged magazine and condition check the chamber to make sure it is clear. (NOTE: Instructor Greg asked the question, “What are you checking for when you check the shotgun?” His reply to our dumb stares was that we are checking to see if the weapon is loaded. Remember the first rule of safe gun handling: Always treat the weapon as if it were loaded!!!)
For those of us without slings, Instructor Greg advised that we carry a specific way. Using the middle and ring fingers of our shooting hand, hook the shotgun behind the trigger guard and keep it in the right shoulder-arms position. This was the easiest way to carry and be able to bring the gun in play when a threat presents itself. For those carrying a slung shotgun, they are to grab the foregrip of the shotgun with their weak hand, slide the sling off their shoulder and twist the gun around and up into the firing position.
Third Carry Method: Home Defense. The golden rule for our Tac Tuesday class is: “We train as we fight!” For each person, home defense means something different. Until this class, I kept my Rem. 870 loaded with BBB steel shot and left the chamber empty. (At the time, it was the only round I had in abundance. That has been rectified.) I feared a ND/AD accident, so I kept it in the corner of my closet muzzle down inside a soft carry case half open. This may work for you as well, I don’t know. A couple of our guys keep theirs under the bed locked and cocked, and still a couple have some other ingenious ways of storing. One individual has a special set of hooks behind his headboard that holds his street cannon.
Don’t forget about kids when you set up for Home Defense. What do they have access to, and what do you give them access to are completely different things altogether. Young children are into everything. I can remember being a young child and coming across my dad’s guns hidden in various spots in his closet and under his bed. I was a smart one, I left them alone. Make sure that you have thought out all, and I mean ALL, scenarios and circumstances before you leave a loaded shotgun in the house. Young and single living in an apartment is worlds apart from a thirtysomething couple with a toddler who can defeat child safety cabinet locks. [JWR Adds: It is best to “de-mystify” the guns that you keep around the house. Make some things clear to your kids from a very early age: a.) All guns should be considered loaded at all times. b.) Demonstrate by shooting a milk jug full of water the full implications of a loaded gun. I first did this when our #1 Son was three years old, and have repeated it several times since, for the benefit of the others kids. c.) The kids are welcome to have either parent show them the workings/handling/function/loading/unloading of any gun at any time, at their request. This satisfies their curiosity. Most of of the ADs involving kids are due in large part to unsatisfied curiosity.]
Fourth Carry Method: Home Storage. For those of you playing the home game, this is the completely nekkid, bare-bones, essential not gonna use it method. Since I don’t have a gun vault, I opt to keep my other shotguns in their cases in the back of my closet. I store them muzzle down in a corner so I don’t drop anything on them and possibly cause damage. Those of you with a secure means of storage can opt for a locked vault. Remember to chamber check and insure that the gun is clear when you store this way. Most accidents happen when you assume the weapon is not loaded.
Instructor Greg ran us through some other drills that gave us familiarity with the Carry Mode, and how to come out of this mode and into Fight Mode.
CRAWL BEFORE YOU WALK
First we learned how to load and chamber check our shotguns. Simple, most shotguns use a bottom feed, side eject. Others, like a Browning BPS [and Ithaca 37/87] use a bottom/bottom action. Feed the beast until you can’t feed it anymore. To unload, simply reach up under the action and press the little spring release on the right side of most 870’s and palm each round as it comes out. Using this method to unload prevents rounds from flying all over and keeps them in your control. Better to have a round in hand instead of on the ground and in the dark.
If you are unloading from a chambered status, first, engage the safety (Until now, the entire class worked without using the safety!). Pull the action back gently to unseat the round from the chamber until it starts to break out of the ejection port. Next, clear the rounds out of the magazine tube. Pull the action back one more time AND WITH YOUR NON-NOSEPICKING FINGER check to make sure the magazine tube is clear and that the chamber is also clear. Now, fully cycle the action, release the safety, aim downrange and press the trigger to release the tension on the firing pin. **NOTE: Some hunting models of the Remington 870 and other brands of shotgun have extended pump actions. These have a tendency to cover up the ejection port when down. Since I was using a ‘tactical tupperware’ model, I took a hacksaw to it and removed an inch from the end. If you don’t want to attempt the home surgery method, there are plenty of after-market options out there.**
WALK BEFORE YOU RUN
Here is where we learned to unsling and engage the target. As I briefly mentioned earlier, for those carrying with a sling, the muzzle is pointed down and the shotgun is slung on the weak side. To unsling, first grab the pump action by your weak hand and bring the muzzle up. Your movements should unsling the gun from your shoulder. By twisting your arm around, the gun should come up into a firing position.
Once in the firing position, the action should be cycled and the gun made ready to fire. Remember to keep your finger in register so the cheap convenience store camera can accurately record your intentions. If you have time, go ahead and top off a round in the magazine. Your mind should be working to remember that you have X number of rounds in the gun and know that one is or isn’t in the chamber.
To return to Carry Mode from Firing Mode is just like I explained in the “Crawl” Phase. Safety on, bring the action back until the shell in the chamber starts to peek out. Remove that shell and with the action still back, reach under and pop that shell release spring until all the shells are out of the magazine tube. Condition check with your NNPF (Non Nose-Picking Finger), push the action forward, release the safety and press the trigger to relax tension on the firing pin.
NOTE: We had one guy using a Mossberg pump action who had considerable trouble with the gun jamming on him. At one point, the shotgun failed to clear a round during a fire exercise. In a real fight, he would have been killed just standing there trying to extract the round. This served as a reminder that in a real fight, a back up gun is a necessity. A pistol strapped to your hip is ideal in this circumstance, but may never be an available option. If you train as you fight, this may never have to worry you. On the other hand, just the fact that he could have drawn his pistol and fired a double tap at the remaining threat would have saved his bacon.
RUN LIKE YOUR HAIR IS ON FIRE
I though Airsoft was fun, but this was one massive celebration of gunpowder, recoil and target obliteration. The “Rolling Thunder” Drill was pretty neat, for a parlor trick. I failed to see how it would help in a tactical situation, but nonetheless, it was pretty cool. The object of the drill was to have five shooters on the line with five targets. The Range Officer (RO) would start by tapping the number one shooter and having him fire one round at target number one. Then, shooter #2 would fire at target #1 and so on and so forth until shooter #5 shot target #1. The RO would return to shooter #1 and have him shoot targets #1 & #2, and the cycle would begin again. For those of us with goose howitzers, it became a test of speed loading between turns. I am proud of myself for not nicking up my hands too bad.
Talk about an assault on the senses. In an enclosed range with the air conditioning turned off it got pretty darn smelly and choked with gun smoke. Makes me wanna do it again.
UPDATE: 02/15/06 — I have since had more training in tactical shotgun. This post is a basic, bare-bones intro. My advice to you, find someone who offers a tactical training class and gain from their knowledge base. Brian Hoffner, Clint Smith, and Paul Howe among others all have excellent classes that are thorough and informative. I was using my shotgun in its stock configuration, as a goose gun, at the time. I have since modified it with a couple of parts that anyone can get, and anyone can install. I started with the Side Saddle shotshell carrier. It adds an extra six rounds to the side of the gun. As a cop friend informed me, you can use the side-saddle to carry mission specific rounds (i.e. slugs, buckshot, bean-bag, etc) right at your fingertips. I have now added a magazine extension and collapsible CAR-15 style stock. I have a regular adjustable sling on at this time, but will be changing that soon to a single point sling as soon as I can (my preference). Each of us has our preference on shotguns. I am not here to harp on one over the other. I hope that this little lesson will add to our already growing fundamental knowledge of firearms so that we may pass it on to our family, neighbors and friends now and in TEOTWAWKI times. – Shooter
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Letter Re: Advantages and Disadvantages of New Zealand
Hello James,
I recently found your website and have been reading through the archives. You’ve put together an enormous resource that can only become more valuable over the coming years. I’ve tried to purchase your novel Patriots through Fred’s M14 Stocks but unfortunately he doesn’t ship internationally.
I feel we are relatively fortunate in New Zealand regarding direct threats:
1) The closest part of Australia in 1,275 miles to the west, although the prevailing wind is from that direction.
2) We are an island nation and there are plans to close the borders in the event of bird flu pandemic.
3) With only 3.5 million people on a land mass the size of Colorado State we have plenty of room if TSHTF.
4) Our gun laws aren’t overly draconian such as in Australia and the UK. The biggest problem is limited allowable magazine capacity (7 rounds for centrefire and 15 for rimfires). Pistol ownership is a problem as you must be a member of a gun club and shoot regularly with them to maintain the pistol licence
5) We have the largest stocks per capita of Tamiflu in the world
6) Our government does not get directly (and more importantly, publicly) involved in worldwide conflicts e.g. Afghanistan, Iraq etc
Our biggest problems are:
1) Heavy reliance on imports of oil for fuel
2) High cost of shipping for the many products not readily available in New Zealand
3) Small country mentality of “We are too small for anyone to want to attack us”
4) Heavy reliance on imports for finished goods. We export primarily raw materials, meat and fruit.
As a firefighter we do a lot of worst case scenario planning and our country (and probably many others) are entirely unprepared for concerted attempts to disrupt our infrastructure. For example 10 house fires as a diversion in the middle of the night in Auckland would utilize all fire appliances and manpower and leave nothing available to respond to more serious events. Thank you again for providing such a wonderful resource. Regards. J.G. in Auckland, New Zealand
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Letter Re: Alternate Short Term Sources for Drinking Water
Jim,
An inexpensive way to store a couple hundred gallons of water is simply in install an extra water heater. Electrics are cheap (a couple bucks a gallon), and don’t even need to be electrically connected. The fresh water continually flows through, and can be drained down for short-term needs during an interruption. If installing in new construction, it’s even easier, and an electrical connection means that you have hot water in the event of a natural gas interruption. Plumbing and valving should ensure that the tank can be gravity drained, and that either heater may be taken out of the loop as needed. Joel Skousen’s book The Secure Home is a good reference for a practical plumbing/valve layout for this sort of installation. – Mr. Bravo
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"All changes, even the most longed for, have their melancholy; for what we leave behind us is part of ourselves; we must die to one life before we can enter another." – Anatole France
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Note From JWR:
As you can see from our new ClustrMap web visit tracker, there are now SurvivalBlog readers all over the world: http://clustrmaps.com/counter/maps.php?url=https://survivalblog.com&type=small&clusters=yes&map=world BTW, it appears that we will have a new foreign correspondent, in Brazil. I’ll have more details about that in the next few days.
Thank you for making SurvivalBlog such a rapid success. Please keep spreading the word. One awareness tool that has been proven to work well is a “fortune cookie” paper strip that you can hand out at public events such as gun shows, ham radio swap meets, first aid courses, et cetera. Or you can “carelessly” leave them tucked in books when you return them to the library. 😉 All that the strip needs is two lines: survivalblog.com / “Come with me if you want to live!”
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Letter Re: Katrina’s Aftermath: Lessons Learned
Mr. Rawles:
Well, it seems that Katrina and friends have amply proven what you and many, many other survival writers have been saying for a long time.
1. You cannot depend on any governmental agency to look out for you and yours. Not federal, not state, not county and certainly not local. You have to be fully responsible for looking out for yourself and for your loved ones.
It also proved what I have always felt about FEMA‘s vaunted 72-Hour home survival/preparedness kit.
2. A 72-Hour (three day) Kit simply does NOT cut it, at all
Anyone who plans on anything less than a minimum of seven days (one week) is just kidding themselves and asking for trouble.
More realistically it really should be for fourteen days (two weeks).
And if you can handle it thirty days (one month) would not be at all unreasonable or out of line.
When you consider the great amount of death and destruction that was visited on the people of New Orleans and the rest of the Gulf Coast it is certainly not hard to feel a great deal of compassion and sympathy for those folks who lost their homes, businesses, loved ones or all three. Yet at the same time, considering the past history of hurricanes on the Gulf Coast and all the warning that was provided, how poorly many of those people were prepared for Katrina and her aftermath (in a great number of cases, not at all) I really cant and don’t feel too sympathetic. Mostly, I feel some anger and a lot of disgust that so many people paid so little attention to their own welfare and that of their children and old folks and totally ignored the well-known hazards of living on the Gulf Coast.
Lets take just a couple of points. First, WATER. There were hundreds (maybe thousands) of cases of severe dehydration, even death due to the lack of water. How stupid! How lazy!! Here in central Los Angeles County, California, I can buy a case of six one gal. bottles of Arrowhead drinking water for less than $5. Four cases for under $20. That’s enough water to take care of one person for more than three weeks. I’m sure that there are similar deals in the New Orleans area. Maybe even better ones. No one should have had a dehydration problem with just a bit of thought and pre-planning.
Another point It doesn’t really seem that many folks gave much prior thought about getting out of their second floors or attics onto their roofs. I mean really, using a shotgun to blow a hole in the roof! Dangerous and what a waste of shotgun shells. How about having a hatchet or small ax along with a tree-trimming saw. Chop a small hole with the ax and then make a larger opening with the saw. And what’s with this making the holes in the middle of the roof at the highest point of the roof. Cut the hole down near the eves and one or two rafters in from the end of the roof where its easy to get out and where any incoming rain wont be soaking the area where you would be trying to live.
One could go on and on about items like this but enough said. Think it through people and get prepared before TSHTF again! – J.S.
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Letter Re: Alternate Short Term Sources for Drinking Water
Jim–
Instead of water barrels a previous contributor mentioned in fashioning a water supply setup, surplused water heaters can be used.
(1) They usually are sound, only have failed heater systems–just need flushing;
(2) They are already fitted with correct interior piping and external pipe fittings;
(3) If you can get one tank in the sun (make an insulated box–plans are everywhere), presto, a pre-heater for the hot water tank and a savings on your heating bill;
(4) If you can get these tanks elevated, you should be able to get a little bit of extra pressure for draining off needed water from the lowest one–or, put a pressure tank first in line;
(5) The valve between the street supply and the first tank in the lineup is called a check valve.
And those barrels? Fill ’em up and use that water for flushing. – Bob
JWR Replies: Keep in mind that water heaters have thin walls. So anything that you construct with used water heaters should be assumed to rust out and leak at any time. Position them accordingly, to avoid having a flooded house!
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Two Letters Re: Barns, Barn Designs, and Fire
Jim:
I was reviewing the Blog. this morning and saw the letter on “Barn Designs and Fire.” As a retired Lieutenant from the Fire Department I would like to make a suggestion! A 250 Gallon fuel oil tank filled with water, in a house attic or barn attic, can be piped to use a{n automatic] fire sprinkler system. Don’t forget to reinforce the weight! Use a pendent sprinkler head rated for the normal high temperature the area will receive and the temperature that you would want the head to go off. Use and a sidewall sprinkler heads for along side walls. – GCP
James:
The recent letter on barn fires compelled to me to write. Many readers are already equipped with kerosene lanterns or pressurized mantle lanterns for use outside or during long power outages. However, these present a significant fire risk when used around dry bedding material such as wood shavings or straw. It may be a good idea to invest in a battery powered or rechargeable lantern. The fluorescent units provide reasonable runtime per charge and run cool. The rechargeable units usually come with both 110 VAC and 12 VDC chargers and could probably be charged from a small solar panel. They can be found in the camping section of most mart type stores for around $30. – Buzz
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Letter Re: Do You Know Where Your Gardening Seed Comes From?
Memsahib:
I have a question concerning heirloom seeds. My question is how long can a seed be stored in ideal conditions and still produce a viable plant? I am currently not at a position of having more then a very small garden, but I would like the security of a stockpile of seeds stored with me in case I need them in the future. what is a realistic storage time frame? and also what would be considered an ideal storing environment? Once the plants are harvested what is the best way to remove and prepare the new seeds from the plants for storage? I live in Wyoming so I am mostly concerned with plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, watermelon, zucchini, Etc. Due to the short growing season here. Thanks in advance for your time. – Brian
The Memsahib Replies: One excellent source of heirloom seeds is Dr. Geri Guidetti of The Ark Institute. Another is The Seed Savers Exchange (see: http://www.seedsavers.org.) Again, it is important to order heirloom seeds–not patented hybrid seeds. The best place to store your seeds is in sealed containers (such as Mason jars), in your refrigerator. The germination rate starts to drop off rapidly past two years of storage, but you can still get halfway decent yields out of seed that has been refrigerated for four or even five years. Beyond that, that buy a fresh stock of seeds. It would take a book to describe how collect and re-use the various types of heirloom seeds, so let me recommend one: I HIGHLY recommend that you buy a copy of “Seed to Seed” by Suzanne Ashworth.(ISBN 978-1-882424-58-0.) The knowledge on seed saving that is packed between those covers goes far beyond my own! For the climate in Wyoming, you will need to build a greenhouse, or at least cold frames to get a head start on sprouting your seedlings.
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Letter Re: Defensive Shotguns on a Budget
Sir,
WRT the recent posts regarding “Defensive Shotguns on a Budget”, am I the only one that GREATLY prefers the Remington 870? Guess it is probably a Pepsi versus Coke type thing, but I have owned many different brands over the years, and the 870 series is what I find to work best for me. I found a few interesting discussions on the topic online at some of the links listed below, but I would suggest to everyone that if possible, try actually shooting a few different models before making a decision. I learned that lesson the hard way once when I bought 3 HK-91s in a package deal, based on “internet research.” Don’t get me wrong, I love Heckler and Koch products, and most of my armory has their logo on it, but I just couldn’t stand the ergonomics on those rifles, regardless of any other positive factors. Luckily, I live in a state where I can just walk into a gun show with a rifle on a sling over my shoulder and a for sale sign hanging from a stick in the barrel.
Again, I am not saying that anyone that the Remington 870 is the best choice for everyone, but I felt it was worth bringing up how important it is to make sure that whatever you buy, make sure it works for you.
http://www.tacticalshotgun.ca/content_nonsub/shotguns/ compare_870_590.html
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=1700
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-280.html
keep up the good work! – Jeff
Odds ‘n Sods:
A popular new bumper sticker: I’d rather go hunting with Dick Cheney than ride in a car with Ted Kennedy.
o o o
U.S. brings back the venerable .45 ACP — at least for Special Forces Operators. http://www.strategypage.com/dls/articles/2006251215.asp
o o o
A fairly definitive piece on Iran’s New Euro-denominated Oil Bourse: http://www.globalresearch.ca/index.php?context=viewArticle&code=CLA20060210&articleId=1937
o o o
Now H5N1 is in Germany, Austria, and Iran:
http://today.reuters.com/news/newsarticle.aspx?type=topNews&storyid=2006-02-14T223300Z_01_L09218784_RTRUKOC_0_US-BIRDFLU.xml&rpc=22
…and in Southern Russia:
http://www.breitbart.com/news/2006/02/15/060215162126.c9uj06hd.html
o o o
Doc at Big Secrets recommends this Water Well tutorial: http://www.lifewater.ca/
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
"The paper money disease has been a pleasant habit thusfar and will not be dropped voluntarily any more than a dope user will without a struggle give up narcotics… I find no evidence to support a hope that our fiat paper money venture will fare better ultimately than such experiments in other lands…" – Nebraska Congressman Howard Buffett, 1948 (The father of Warren Buffett.) As quoted in Financial Reckoning Day.
Note From JWR:
Please keep spreading the word about SurvivalBlog. Just by adding one line to your mail “.sig”, or by pasting a SurvivalBlog banner in your web page, you could help attract hundreds of new readers. Many Thanks!
Letter Re: Alternate Short Term Sources for Drinking Water
Jim:
Seeing the following got me thinking: “JWR’s Comments/Recommendations: Mr. Sierra is typical of most suburban survivalists in that he is tied to a Big City job. I recommend that he store at least 100 gallons of water”
Have you mentioned the need for people to flush their hot water heaters twice a year? This minimizes the mineral buildup and provides a fine source of drinkable water.
Putting some chlorine in the toilet tanks does the same thing. This kills bacteria and upon cleaning twice a year, provides more drinkable water.
I have seen systems where people have strung together 55 gallon barrels with removable lids. Their household water from the street runs through these drums. One valve between the drums and the street will prevent contamination if the city/county water supply gets contaminated. – Dave