“We don’t raise any corn on the farm but prices for wheat and barley have risen because the corn previously used for livestock feed is being pulled off the market for ethanol. Cattle, sheep, and pigs will eat chopped barley and wheat as well as corn so wheat is now at something like a 30 year high. Ignoring for now the fact that it’s not an all time high, that 30+ years ago wheat sold for more than it does today, we realize that there might be an increase in prosperity of some farmers in the near future. Some people are fantasizing about replacing nearly all our non renewable fuels with “natural” fuels made from grain. The key word in previous sentence is fantasizing. I knew Doug had done the calculations 15 or 20 years ago and realized then farms cannot begin to supply our fuel needs and I asked him to redo the calculations. He sent me this short paper (Microsoft Word .DOC, slightly edited by me). The important information is as follows: Comparing potential alcohol production to current petroleum production, we see that if we stop eating and make ALL of the world grain production into alcohol, we will produce: 1.77e16/1.447e17 [BTU] or 12% of the energy we currently get from petroleum. … …we are falling behind on world food production versus consumption in the last 10 – 15 years, so there are a few billion people that will have to stop eating if the rest of us want to stop using fossil fuels and switch to biofuels. Also on the negative side is the fact that the huge increase in agricultural production that we have seen in the last 50 years is mostly due to fertilizers that are based on natural gas. Modern agricultural production also depends on fossil fuels for farm equipment and transportation. Thus, the “renewable” biofuels are also based in part on fossil fuels.” – Joe Huffman, in The View From North Central Idaho Blog
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Notes from JWR:
You may have heard on the news about a southern California man that was put under 72-hour psychiatric observation when it was found that he owned 100 guns and allegedly had (by rough estimate) 1 million rounds of ammunition stored in his home. The house also featured a secret escape tunnel. My favorite quote from the dimwit television reporter: “Wow! He has … …about a million machinegun bullets.” The headline referred to it as a “massive weapons cache.” BTW, I am dubious about the pile of ammunition boxes and cans that they showed. It looked big enough to contain no more than about 100,000 rounds, unless there was a lot of .22 rimfire ammo. However, by southern California standards, even someone owning 100,000 rounds would be called “mentally unstable.” Just imagine if he lived elsewhere:
In Arizona, he’d be called “an avid gun collector”
In Texas, he’d be called “a novice gun collector”
In Utah, he’d be called “moderately well prepared,” but they’d probably reserve judgment until they made sure that he had a corresponding quantity of storage food.
In Montana, he’d be called “The neighborhood ‘Go-To’ guy.”
In Idaho, he’d be called “a likely gubernatorial candidate.”
And, in Wyoming he’d be called “an eligible bachelor.”
I’m happy to report that the new expanded edition of my survivalist novel “Patriots” is now orderable online in the U.S. and Canada through Amazon, Borders, Barnes and Noble, Abe Books, and Powell’s Books. Of those five, Barnes and Noble seems to offer the best price. In England, “Patriots” is available from a variety of Internet vendors including Foyles, Tesco, WH Smith, Waterstones, and Amazon.uk. In Australia, it is available through Angus & Robertson Books. In New Zealand, it is available through Abe Books. (Whitcoull’s should stock it, but they will only do so if enough customers pester them. Hint-hint.) In France, it is available through Amazon.fr. I also sell autographed copies through my mail order catalog, and through Amazon Shops, with most orders shipped through our fulfillment partner located up in Montana. OBTW, if you have the time, I’d appreciate posting of positive book reviews of the novel at Amazon.com. Thanks!
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Letter Re: Recommendations on FAL and L1A1 Manufacturers and Custom Builders
Jim,
In the 2/23/07 blog, you replied to Stephen D. that: “If I ever hear shooting nearby and have my choice of grabbing either an AR-15 or FAL, then I’ll grab the FAL.” Would you please recommend/suggest a brand name of a FAL type rifle that is currently available in the U.S.? I read your FAL FAQ, but didn’t see any brand references. I’ve researched from the Century “cobbled togethers” to the “new” DSA’s, etc. I know there is a huge price range, but I am mainly interested in reliability (and accuracy, of course). Also, will FAL’s perform equally well with either 7.62 X 51 NATO or commercial .308 Winchester [soft nose] ammo?
Thanks, – Russ in Atlanta
JWR Replies: I highly recommend Dave Selvaggio’s (DS Arms) FALs. In contrast, the Century Arms FALs have a bad reputation for very un-even quality control. Many of them have functioning problems–both feeding and cycling glitches. If you have a bit more money, I also recommend both Century Gun Works (CGW, run by Rich Saunders in Gardnerville, Nevada–not to be confused with Century Arms) and Arizona Response Systems for custom FAL and L1A1 builds, using post-ban receivers. And if you have an even bigger budget, you might buy a pre-ban SAR-48, Argentine FM-LSR, or an original Belgian FAL. For what it is worth, we have four L1A1s here at the ranch, all of which are pre-ban. Two were re-built by Century Gun Works, using pre-ban Australian inch receivers, and two were re-built by Arizona Response Systems on SAR-48 receivers that they converted to inch specifications. Up until recently, I also owned a “Para” FAL that had been converted to take inch magazines by Rich Saunders. But sadly, I had to sell it to pay some bills. (My blogging income is still not yet paying all my bills.)
I believe that there are several distinct advantages to having an “inch pattern” (L1A1) instead of one of the metric measurement FN-FALs. These advantages include:
1.) The ability to use inch OR metric magazines. If you have a metric FAL, you are limited to using only metric magazines. But if you have an inch receiver rifle you can use both inch and metric mags. (The latter wobble a bit when used in an L1A1, but they still feed reliably.)
2.) Inch magazines are sturdier than metric magazines, because they are heavier gauge steel. And if they ever do get dented, L1A1 magazines can be repaired with a mandrel block, but metric mags cannot. (If you lay an inch mag and a metric mag side by side, you will notice that the floor plate retaining tabs on a metric magazine are turned inward, whereas they are turned outward on an inch mag. Hence there is no way for a metric magazine to accept a dent-removing mandrel.)
3.) A larger safety selector switch that you can’t miss with your thumb.
4.) A larger, ambidextrous magazine release. (Unlike the tiny mag release on the metric FAL, which is designed for the convenience of right handed shooters.)
5.) A sturdy folding charging handle is standard. If you’ve ever tripped and fallen while carrying a metric FAL, you’ll appreciate this feature. There is nothing quite like taking a blow from metric charging handle to the solar plexus!
6.) Sturdier and less reflective stock furniture. The British Maranyl pebble grain black plastic furniture is practically bomb proof.
7.) Buttplates that come in a wide range of thicknesses, to accommodate shooters of various heights. Proper stock length usually means more accurate shooting.
8.) Better rear sights. OBTW, the inch pattern “Hythe” dual-aperture variant is a great sight with the versatility needed for long range shooting, close quarters combat, and night shooting. I have Hythe sights on all of the L1A1s at the Rawles Ranch.
9.) An integral winter trigger arrangement that is always stowed and available in the pistol grip. (One downside is that L1A1s don’t have the “in the grip” miniature cleaning kit found on metric FALs.)
10.) A slightly more efficient flash hider. (I’ve viewed a video of a nighttime test that was filmed by a SurvivalBlog reader, using identical ammo, and the difference was apparent.)
11.) Specially-designed “Sand Cut” bolts and bolt carriers, designed to operate more reliably in grungy environments.
In summary: Yes, the parts and magazines for inch pattern L1As are slightly more expensive, but the advantages that I just related more than compensate for the greater expense.
BTW, for those of you reading this that presently own metric FALs, I suggest that you keep them and just improve them a bit: For example, I recommend retrofitting them with inch pattern magazine releases and selector switches. And unless you have one of the excellent Israeli-style forward assist charging handles, you should also consider retrofitting with an inch-style folding charging handle.
All of the aforementioned parts might be available from Gun Parts Guy.
In answer to you other question: A FAL or L1A1 will indeed function with commercial .308, but it is best to turn down the gas adjustment a bit, since commercial soft nose ammo has considerably higher pressure than the 150 grain military ball. You will also notice a slight difference in point of impact.
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Two Letters Re: Kanban: America’s Ubiquitous “Just in Time” Inventory System–A Fragile House of Cards
Jim,
I recently shared “Letter Re: Propane Shortage and Rationing in the Frigid U.S. Northeast” with several friends. Surprisingly, a new friend who does not know that I am into “Prepping”, sent back the following. – Douglas in C. in Connecticut
Hi Douglas,
I work in the grocery industry. I can tell you first-hand that this industry (as most others) has expended incredible amounts of time and energy over the last 20 years into streamlining the supply chain. More than anything else, this means reduction of inventory held within the system – starting with the raw materials on the manufacturing end, all the way to the shelf in the grocery store. Back Room stock in the store (formerly called “safety stock”) is especially targeted through automated ordering and demand forecasting tools. I design database systems to facilitate this type of analysis. Of course, as companies seek to squeeze maximum efficiency from their investment, the capacity to cope with unusual demand spikes is often overlooked or simply eliminated. I was out of the country during the sleet and icing that we had last week in Connecticut, but my wife tells me that as soon as it became evident that there was a potential for bad weather, the local stores were packed and being rapidly stripped of certain commodities. And this was for a very minor event. I can promise you that in a major event — whether it’s an act of terrorism, war, civil unrest, an accidental overload of the infrastructure, labor strikes or just plain old harsh weather — you can not be assured that your local grocery store will be able to supply your needs. You can not count on the bank to have your money accessible (this also means you can’t count on credit cards to work). You can not be certain that you can refuel your vehicles. You may not be able to get heating oil at times, and your light switch might not do anything for you.
Please consider the many thousands of potential points of failure (and their associated domino effect) that can seriously alter your daily life. Think about where you and your millions of neighbors will find clean drinking water if storms or floods contaminate the public supply. Consider how an ice storm or a power plant accident can force you to find ways to stay warm, to keep your food safe and to prevent the pipes in your house from bursting. What will you do if the grocery stores can’t get resupplied? Or, what if there is food on the shelf but they cannot process non-cash payments. When these events happen, it is our responsibility individually to deal with them. If the stores in your area can’t supply you food for the next week, will you be OK? What about the next month?
Mr. R.:
I just thought I’d weigh in on on the concept of JIT logistics. Just so it’s clear where I’m coming from, I’ve worked in the infrastructure side of the shipping/distribution/logistics business for the last
decade. I have insight into a lot of this, but am by no means an expert. On 9/11/01, I was working in Virginia for a major food supplier, at a fresh food (FDA “fresh”, i.e. refrigerated to below freezing but not hard frozen) distribution center. I was called in, and told to get the rest of the team in. The goal was to try and reroute everything on the road to New York City (NYC), anticipating bridges being closed or down, and the city being stranded for at least a few days. This was a very vertically oriented company, shipping it’s product via it’s own dedicated truck fleet. I didn’t get my whole team in, some of my key personnel had family in the affected areas, and understandably put priority on learning their status. But we were able to reroute a lot of product right into traffic jams and closed bridges. If it wasn’t in NYC right after the event, it didn’t make it in for a while. I say that to say this. The average person doesn’t understand how much effort it takes to keep a JIT system running on a day to day basis, under relatively optimum conditions. Throw a monkey in the wrench and things go south (or actually sit in gridlock trying to go south) really darn quick. I had a dedicated, talented team; who’s base efficiency dropped like a rock under strain. Our communications to dispatch, operations, and individual trucks fell apart, and lots of goods simply ‘disappeared’ from our tracking for a while as drivers with no instructions and in unfamiliar territory got lost. Procedure was ignored, contingency plans forgotten, and individual effort replaced organized method. The problem is, individual effort moves a truckload, organized effort moves tonnage. I don’t know what system military or civil authorities use, but one would imagine that it’s at least somewhat subject to the same strains. It’s the nature of the beast. And before we talk about the military’s ability to do stuff under adverse conditions, let’s face the fact that shipping ammo and supplies overseas from US bases with the base and surrounding infrastructure intact is one thing; trying to do the same without roads and bridges is another. The problem after [Hurricane] Katrina wasn’t the latent ability to respond, it was the practical logistics of route planning and delivery of mass tonnage of personnel, support equipment and supplies that had to be done over the new and unmapped landscape of chopped up roads, downed bridges and nonfunctional port facilities. Then think about the bulk of the quantities of anything that 8 million people need, daily, post disaster. I echo the concerns of JH, but I’ll take it one step further. Realistically, drop the bridges across the Hudson, NYC is pretty cut off. But New Jersey has good port facilities, so does Brooklyn, and to some extent Manhattan. While not ideal, with enough supply getting to eastern New Jersey, NYC could be resupplied. And there are lots of warehouses staging goods, and manufacturing facilities making the goods is in Jersey. But the problem with JIT is it works throughout the supply chain. Just as the final user stores and is supplied with as little as they expect to need until expected resupply, the manufacturer stores as little raw material and spare parts as possible to fulfill orders. That means that after a day or two of resupply, the primary supplying distros will be empty, and the manufacturing plants out of material.
Now, drop a couple of bridges and tunnels in Pennsylvania and Delaware, and New Jersey is practically an island. Now where do the supplies come from? Pennsylvania is a massive ship-through state for goods from the Midwest going to east coast ports. And Pennsylvania”s transportation infrastructure, since the decline of railroads (again, as JH mentioned) truly sucks. A minor ice storm storm a couple of weeks ago shut down 80 miles of one of only two major East-West highways in the state, stranding some motorist for days. You could turn it around, ship through upstate NY or the Great Lakes, or swing materials to other east coast ports like Baltimore or Norfolk, but doing that dance on the fly isn’t easy, which leads to my final point.
The other part of the equation is, JIT relies heavily on communications, to intelligently track levels, forecast needs to plan materials ordering and production, and distribute goods where there’s the most pressing need. If communications are disrupted, the system becomes grossly inefficient, sending goods where they’re not needed while other places starve, and making production planning a craps shoot. On a good day at my current job, we have to dedicate a phone line to lost truckers; if we didn’t a significant portion of our material would wander for who know how long. Now try that without the phone, GPS, Google maps, real time traffic reports, and throw in some random bridge/road closures.
Sorry for the long ramble. To sum up, JIT can, and does, work as a business solution. Quite well in fact. It saves significant cost, and can provide better, more responsive service. But it’s also a tightly coupled system, therefore very sensitive to disruption, and doesn’t heal well afterwards. You can put in contingencies and redundancies to make it more robust, but those that think that such a system can truly be bulletproof are kidding themselves. – Rayster
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Letter Re: The “Third Way” Approach–A Forward Base En Route to a Remote Survival Retreat
Hi Jim,
While I value your insights on location, I think you have overlooked one possibility. That is to have your final destination be some 300+ miles away from any major metropolitan areas as you so aptly describe, but then I would add for those people who feel that they need it, a forward base of operations. This would consist of a small cabin, rental unit, or lot with a trailer and a storage shed that would be used as a forward base of operations and a leaping off point to go to their final destination. It would be located 25-50 miles out of town, so a family could use it to commute to their jobs in town and school if they did not know exactly when to make their final departure. It would be for those who are indecisive about when to cut and run, and want to stick around until the last possible minute to collect their last paycheck. Ideally it would be far enough out so that any resulting traffic jams that develop would occur between their forward temporary residence and the city center so they would have relatively unimpeded driving during their exit along the back rural roads. It should also give them 30-60 minutes lead time in [the event of] any short notice, explosive evacuation. Since most of their supplies should already be at their final destination, the only supplies that should be at the forward location would be just what they would need for day to day living out of their suitcase, and extra jerry cans of gas or maybe a 55 gallon drum on/in a small trailer like an enclosed [Wells Cargo] style trailer. If properly prepared, they should be able to “bug out” within ten minutes of their decision to go. They would only need to top off their fuel tanks, throw their suitcases in the car, hitch up any trailer, and leave. This forward location would contain only minimal provisions, but one of those would be enough stored fuel to get the family to their final location plus some extra for detours and traffic jams. It would be located on a less used gravel county road that would lead the family further out, away from the city towards their final destination in relative safety and obscurity. To find these suitable, closer-in locations, you would have to study your local maps in great detail and do a lot of Sunday driving and exploring. – Paul
JWR Replies: What you suggest might have its merits for a “slow slide” scenario, where there is urban rioting, but otherwise things are fairly safe elsewhere. But your approach seems to me like a huge unnecessary expense. The same thing could be accomplished by finding a small town roughly 50 to 60 miles in the direction of your intended retreat that has both a motel and a commercial “mini storage” company. In the storage space, you could store some jerry cans of stabilized gasoline (check the local fire code first, of course) and perhaps a couple of inexpensive used off-road motorcycles, for use as back-up “get out of Dodge” vehicles. If things start looking dicey, you could leave your family at the motel and spend your nights there, for as long as you are in “wait and see” mode. (The period when presumably you determine if the situation has deteriorated to the point of necessitating totally “pulling the plug” on your paycheck and moving to your distant retreat for the long term. ) This will both save you the expense of buying or leasing a “forward location” cabin, and it will also eliminate most of the risk of burglary of the requisite supplies–which otherwise is a huge risk for an unattended cabin just 60 miles from a metropolitan area. If you have a really big budget and can afford a “vacation cabin” in addition to your fully stocked retreat that is much farther away, then by all means go for it. Just be sure to either build some secret compartments into the walls, and/or construct some underground caches. Otherwise, you might arrive at your “Forward Base” and find it stripped bare. Also, regardless of where you cache your gasoline, I recommend buying nothing larger than 20 gallon drums for any supplies that you want to consider mobile. (Anything larger is to difficult to move.) Buy winter formulated gas (which has extra butane–so its stores better), add a gas stabilizes (such as Gas Saver, PRI-G, or Sta-Bil) and be sure to rotate it (replacing it with fresh gasoline) at least one a year. OBTW, speaking of stored gasoline, a good thing to store is a few can of ether-based engine starting fluid. Often, an engine will run with old gas that has had its butane “burn off”, but it is difficult to start it without first giving the carburetor a shot of starting fluid.
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Odds ‘n Sods
Chuck G. (a regular content contributor) sent us this: The Plunge Protection Team gears up for a possible derivatives crisis. I’ve warned you about derivatives, so don’t be surprised when you see trillions of dollars get wiped out, overnight.
o o o
SurvivalBlog reader Doc Holladay notes: “The wife of a fellow doomer buddy has a booming business as a professional seamstress doing alterations. I opine that her livelihood is pretty secure, as she is covered up in work. I’ve four of the treadle sewing machines I’ve refurbished. The old Singer treadle sewing machines use the same bobbins as today’s electric ones! It was Singer who introduced the current bobbin style. Thus, the Singer treadle machines are to be preferred. I figure these will get more valuable over time. I believe a “doomer” should be well prepared with all sorts of sewing gear, fabric, thread, and notions. I plan to take your suggestion to store [green and brown] dye packets to ‘tone down older clothes if needed.”
o o o
“Kon Tiki” mentioned this piece from The Army Times: The gas piston-operated HK 416: Better than the M4, but you can’t have one.
o o o
Freeze Dry Guy has announced some special pricing, just for the month of March:
Dehydrated Butter, 6 #2 size cans, yields 174 Tbsp: $62.80 or Three cases, yields 522 Tbsp: $175
Milk, 6 #10 size cans per case (yields 306 one cup servings): $101.40, or Three cases, yields: 918 one cup servings: $284.20
Emergency Unit (1 month of food for one person–takes up just 3.5 cubic feet), $239, or Three units (3 months for one person), $672 Call for details.
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“If there were no such thing in this world as becoming surety, if the free lending portrayed in the gospel were the general practice, and if only hard cash or wares on hand were exchanged in trade, then the greatest and most harmful dangers and faults and failings of trade and commerce would be well out of the way. It would then be easy to engage in all sorts of business enterprises, and the other sinful faults of trade could the more readily be prevented. If there were none of this becoming surety and this lending without risk, many a man would have to maintain his humble status and be content with a modest living who now aspires day and night to reach an exalted position, relying on borrowing and standing surety. That is why everyone now wants to be a merchant and get rich. From this stem the countless dangerous and wicked devices and dirty tricks that have today become a joke among the merchants. There are so many of them that I have given up the hope that trade can be entirely corrected; it is so overburdened with all sorts of wickedness and deception that in the long run it will not be able to sustain itself, but will have to collapse inwardly of its own weight.” – Martin Luther, Sermon On Trade And Usury (1520)
Notes from JWR:
We had a couple of brief snow flurries this morning, but this afternoon it cleared up and we then had a beautiful sunset, with Alpenglühen on the Unnamed Mountain east of the valley. The sight was spectacular. We thank God for the blessing of living here.
I’ve updated my Cafe Press ordering page. There, you can order copies of both “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation”, and “The Best of the Blog” book as well as SurvivalBlog logo hats, T-Shirts, coffee mugs, et cetera. (BTW, I couldn’t resist injecting a bit of humor into the product descriptions. My apologies to Linda Hamilton.) Many of these items have a SurvivalBlog logo on the front and Heinlein’s famous “Specialization is for insects” quote on the back. Some of the items such as the SurvivalBlog refrigerator magnets, post cards, calendars, and bumper stickers are being sold at my actual cost, just to get the SurvivalBlog name out there. The goal, of course, is to have folks wear or carry SurvivalBlog logo items as conversation starters. Imagine if 20 people all showed up at Knob Creek or the SAR Show, wearing SurvivalBlog hats or T-shirts? (“It must be some kind of conspiracy!”) Many thanks for ordering my items from Cafe Press.Your orders help support SurvivalBlog. Every little bit helps. And you never know who you might meet if you wear a SurvivalBlog T-shirt to town, to a LDS cannery, to a gun show, or on a trip to the local rifle range. You could very well meet like-minded neighbors that you can count on when the Schumer hits the fan.
The Price of Home Security: You Can Pay a Little Now, or Pay Much More, Later
I’m often amazed to hear some of my relatively wealthy consulting clients tell me that they don’t own a home gun vault or safe room. I ask why not, and they make excuses like: “I’ve been too busy at my job to shop for one” or, “A gun vault is too heavy to move, and I seem to move every three years”, or “vaults are too expensive.” Yes, they are expensive but not nearly as expensive as having some of your key survival tools stolen. In essence, you can pay a little now, or pay much more, later.
A burglary can be psychologically devastating. I have good friend in California that was burglarized three years ago. By God’s grace, only a couple of his guns were stolen, since most of his battery was either cached elsewhere or locked up in his gun vault. (He had a few too many guns for them all to fit in his vault.) The burglars also walked off with several thousand rounds of ammunition. Despite the fact that his loss was relatively small, my friend still talks with anger and bitterness about the event. Burglaries are especially devastating for survivalists, since most of us carefully and systematically stock up tools, communication gear, optics, guns, ammunition, and precious metals. These are all choice targets for residential burglars.
A built-in basement walk-in safe room is ideal. They can serve multiple functions: As a vault for guns and other valuables, as a storm shelter, as a fallout shelter, and even as a “panic room” for use in the event of a home invasion. In areas with high water tables where a basement is not practical, a safe room/shelter can be built on the ground floor of a newly-constructed “slab” house, or as an addition to an existing house, with a reinforced poured concrete floor, walls and ceiling. Regardless of the design that you choose, it is important to specify a vault door that opens inward, so that it won’t be jammed shut by debris in the event of tornado, hurricane, or bomb blast. The folks at Safecastle (one of our most loyal advertisers) can do the engineering and source the vault door for you.
I realize that most SurvivalBlog readers cannot afford an elaborate walk-in safe room, but 95% of you can at least afford a heavy duty steel gun vault with an Sargent & Greenleaf dial lock with re-locker. Be sure to bolt your vault securely to the floor, and if possible build it into a hidden compartment or hidden room. There are a lot of vault makers in the U.S. and Canada, so it is a very competitive market. Do some Internet research and comparison shopping and you can save a lot of money on your vault purchase. Vaults are quite heavy (typically around 700 pounds) and shipping them is expensive, so it is generally best to buy one that is made within 200 miles of where you live. One exception to that guidance is for folks that move often: The brand of free-standing gun vault that I highly recommend (and that I own personally) is Zanotti Armor. Zanotti makes vaults that can be taken apart into six pieces for ease of transport. (They are held together by large steel pins, inside the vault.) They cost only about $100 more than comparable vaults that are welded together in the traditional manner. The nice thing about the Zanotti vaults it that even with their largest model, no single component weighs more than about 150 pounds. That makes them much easier to install in a confined space such as a basement. Assembly is a three man job, since extra hands are needed to get everything lined up before the pins can be noisily driven into place. Assembly only takes about a half hour, and disassembly only takes about ten minutes.
Alarm and Camera Systems
No matter what sort of vault you choose, you should definitely supplement it with a home security system. Monitored alarm systems can be expensive–especially with monthly service contracts. But these days, “web cams” are dirt cheap. Buy several of them, and mount them in locations where they are not likely to be spotted immediately. (Such as up amongst books on your bookshelves.) Unless the motion-triggered images captured are immediately uploaded to a server that is off-site, then it is essential that the computer that controls the cameras and the hard drive that stores the images be housed inside your gun vault or safe room. Otherwise the burglars will walk off with the evidence. (They love to steal home computers, too.) Don’t forget that any disruption of phone service or grid power will nullify the protection of a monitored alarm. Anyone living off grid or anyone that foresees a period of extended blackouts should get a battery-powered self-contained camera system, such as those sold by Ready Made Resources. Photographic evidence is crucial for both tracking down perpetrators and for substantiating insurance claims. Don’t skimp on this important piece of your preparedness!
Insurance
Another must is fire and theft insurance. Given enough time, determined burglars can penetrate even the most elaborate vault. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, many homeowner’s insurance policies have specific limits on firearms, often absurdly low dollar figures unless you get a separate “rider ” to your policy, at additional cost. If you aren’t sure about your coverage, then pull out your policy and read through it in detail. I should also mention that the National Rifle Association (NRA) offers a modest dollar value firearms insurance policy that is free with each NRA membership.
Insurance Records
As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, I also recommend taking a list of serial numbers and detailed descriptions of each gun, camera, and electronic gadget that you own. I have found that using 3″x5″ index cards is convenient for updates, since your inventory will change over time. Also take a few detailed photos of each item. Store the 3″x5″ index cards and hard copy pictures annotated with each item’s serial number in a vault belonging to a relative or a trusted friend, and offer to do likewise for them.
Letter Re: Total Burden of State Taxes
Mr. Rawles,
I reviewed the article from MSN Money regarding property taxes by state, mentioned by “J Eagle”. I could not help to look at Alabama because that is my home state. Unfortunately, I am not there now. However, property tax is low in Alabama but they have a 5% personal income tax and sales tax is charged on everything one purchases. This includes big ticket items such as cars and tractors (at a reduced rate from normal sales tax) to basic necessities (food, clothing, guns and ammunition at the normal sales tax rate). They also charge the pharmacies a tax of $1 per prescription filled, which is ultimately passed onto the consumer. Also, each county and/or municipality can increase their property tax by a vote of the people – if the state legislature allows the citizenry to have a referendum. This means that the state is controlled by politicians in the legislature.
All this is said to say, look at the total tax structure of any state. A state, such as Texas has higher property tax, but no personal income tax. This could be much better overall.
I am an accountant and have had many years to look over many different states income tax structure. While I use to look only at the tax structure of a state, I now look at the states’ attitude toward preparedness. You see, many states will not tax seed purchased, nor trees purchased. Some states will not tax food purchased nor clothing. I have tried to learn which states tax what items. Also, shopping via the internet can be a tax saving tactic, but be careful!
Some states are planning to audit credit card statements to tax items that no tax was paid when items were purchased out of state, but consumed in their state. This is called “Use Tax” in some states. It can be potentially a tax trap.
When I travel, I will set aside one to three hours to go shopping in states where I can save between 8 and 10 percent on purchases I need. Many times I am in a SUV and transporting the goods is not an issue. When I was in a Costco for the first time, I was in a tax friendly state for food purchases. Unfortunately, I was in a rental car and had to fly home the next day. I could not help to buy some items my family needed for our “‘burban” retreat (which nobody knows about) but I was able to ship the items via UPS to my house – still cheaper overall that I would have paid at home.
My wife says that I have an attitude of over-analyzing. But I hope to be prepared if needed. – Happy Howie
JWR Replies: You are correct that it is the total tax burden for each state that must be considered, not just property taxes. I have some instructive tables on this in my recently released book “Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.” Every state seems to get its “pound of flesh”, one way or the other. Clearly , however, the more populous/intrusive socialist Nanny States like California, Wisconsin, and Massachusetts take a bigger total bite than most other states. Folks that are in their prime income earning years are rightfully more concerned with income taxes. This makes states with no personal income tax (like Nevada and Wyoming) quite appealing. But for poor folks like me, and for retirees that are “land rich and cash poor”, property taxes are much bigger factor. Also don’t overlook the insidious taxes like private vehicle registration. That can make a big difference, especially if you have several cars and trucks. For example, depending on the age of the vehicle, registering in Idaho costs only $24 to $48 per year, but I’ve heard that just across the state line in Montana, depending on the variable “County Option” tax it typically costs $48 to $257 per year. Ouch! (But of course there is no sales tax in Montana, so there are trade-offs.)
Letter Re: Lessons From an Unexpected Grid Down Weekend
Hi Jim,
We just had a bout with Mother Nature and lost power which appeared at first to be for some time. I am happy to report that my “list” generated from this un-expected “grid-down” weekend was very very very short. I attribute this success and wonderful feeling to what I have gleaned from your publications, SurvivalBlog, and a few very good friends! We were without power for about 40 hours and really only had two “needs”. I was actually “disappointed” when the power came back on. J Oh, and we did not use the power generation until hour 38 and were still very comfortable. The generation was only used for the following two items.
The following were my bigger decisions that I made, or pondered-
1). Knowing this was likely a short term situation, (i.e. – 2 weeks or less) I decided to maintain the freezers via generation.
2). Given the demands of livestock, we were considering a short-term need of pumped water, (rather than relocate to surface water).
The situation for livestock watering led me down a path I had not thought of. How to keep the stock tanks heated without wasting valuable fuel and without the necessary sunlight for solar solutions, (i.e.- bad storm, no sun). Given our outside temps, we were fortunate, but it could have been sub-zero.
In talking with my Father, he mentioned that a wood fired or corn cob fired submersible tank heater was how they maintained open water back in the day without power. I have searched online and so far have not found anything but a Japanese wood fired spa/ tank heater called a CHOFU. (See www.thesolar.biz for the CHOFU and other items. I have no affiliation with them.) What I would really like to find is a coal fired tank heater that can last longer and be without the fumbling of wood ignition in the raw of a storm. Does anyone have some answers on this matter?
The storm broke off many hundreds of power poles leaving behind downed and dangerous power lines, (which were very hard to see). This brought another valuable lesson. A secondary exit route from our property in the event that the lines above our drive are on the ground, (something I had not thought of).
In the mix of the storm, I helped a friend wire his furnace into his generator, (taking all the appropriate safety measures and considering Lineman safety) in a matter of 15 minutes. This was truly rewarding.
In my discussions with him later, we decided that we were better off having our own private well rather than what we felt was a disadvantage of being on a “community well”. Namely for getting water without power. In the instance we discussed, the well only served about six homes and boasted a 5 HORSEPOWER well pump! I hate to think of the cost of the generator needed to power up that baby, and the likely voltage drop in running extension cords to the location of the well in this instance would not even be feasible.
There are positives to a community well; I am simply outlining the disadvantage as we saw it in our situation.
As a side note, make sure that the alternative power supply to the well pump is sufficient to not “lag” the startup of the motor. I think this is the quick death of electronics. It is easier on the well pump to keep the pump running than to stop and start it, keep that in mind for future reference. I wanted to take this opportunity to say “Thank You” for the SurvivalBlog site. I hope you find reward in another success story and hope others act on their intentions as well, so they may experience the peace I had during this very simple situation. I would feel more embarrassed than I do had I not contributed to the Ten Cent Challenge, pre-storm! I suggest the many others who value your service contribute to the cause. It only takes seconds, and it can save lives. (Does that sound like it is worth $36.50 a year???) Read it, Learn it, Buy it, Use it! – The Wanderer
Odds ‘n Sods:
A warning from veteran economic analyst Harry Shultz, by way of BULL!, (Not Bull)
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Desert T . mentioned this New York Times article on honeybee Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD).
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Today we welcome our newest banner advertiser, East Tennessee Sterilizer Service. This company sells state of the art reverse osmosis water purifiers, and has some very hard to find medical equipment at great prices. They even have a few ultra cold medical freezers, which are only rarely found on the surplus market. Give them a call at: (423) 295-4531.
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“I knew I’d been living in Berkeley too long when I saw a sign that said ‘Free Firewood’ and my first thought was ‘Who was Firewood, and what did he do?'” – John Berger
Notes from JWR:
I was pleased to see the new Wikipedia page on Antique Guns. It includes digests on the laws concerning antque guns for the U.S, Canada, the UK, Australia, and Norway. And one of the authors kindly included links to a couple of my FAQs, as well as a link to a long-time SurvivalBlog advertiser: The Pre-1899 Specialist. I highly recommend that every well-prepared family’s firearms battery should include a few cartridge guns from the 1890s, chambered in calibers that are still factory produced. Why? If the Democrats ever control both the White House and Congress (which looks all too likely, in just two years), then we may be subjected to nationwide gun registration. In that event, you would be required to register all of the modern guns in your collection. Pre-1899 guns have been Federally exempt since 1968. Odds are that they will continue to be exempt under any new Federal gun registration scheme. (It is hard for the congresscritters to claim continued “interstate commerce” on an item that was first sold across state lines more than a hundred years ago!) So, presumably you will be able to own some unregistered antique guns. This “above ground” portion of your collection would be ideal for your day-to-day hunting, self defense, and target shooting needs. Think about it. If nothing else, pre-1899 guns are a great investment. There is only a limited supply of bona fide shootable antique cartridge guns, and their prices are steadily rising. Since the “antique” threshold was arbitraily frozen at 1898, their numbers are dwindling. So their prices will continue to rise, regardless of whether or not the U.S. gun laws get any worse.
Today we present another article submitted for Round 9 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $1,600.) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. If you want a chance to win the contest, start writing and e-mail us your article. Round 9 will end on March 31st. Remember that the articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.
Bear Country Basics, by “SNO” in Alaska
Many times when we think of survival skills, our minds turn to the most exotic and specialized of skills. When reading on Survivalblog about this writing assignment I fell victim to this same tendency. My initial idea was to write an article on the construction and operation of a fish wheel, commonly used here in my home state of Alaska, and a tool of great value in a survival/retreat situation. But the detail and complexity of such writing is more involved that practical for this forum. So rather than try and explain some intricate and complex device or skill, that will likely never be utilized, I remembered the old K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) principle and turned my attention towards a topic that is often overlooked: bear safety.
The tendency to think of the extravagant before we think of the mundane is fairly common in the outdoors and disaster prep/survival crowds. We all either know the type of person, or have heard of this type of person. You know it’s the guy with a virtual arsenal but who only keeps a couple boxes of ammo around. Or there is my own personal favorite, the “Survivalist” who owns all the latest electronic gadgets and gizmos, including a state of the art color display GPS unit, but has no idea how to use a map and compass. Here in Alaska, and in many areas out in “Bear Country” we see a plethora outdoorsmen both locals and visitors that are completely ignorant of basic safety procedures in these habitats.
Readers may be tempted to skip over this information or dismiss this essay because they “do not live in bear country.” This may be true for many readers, but when we discuss survival in times of disaster, being it natural or man-made, many people would be leaving their homes and venturing into the backyards of our Ursine neighbors. So weather your like me, and often encounter bears when out in the woods (or in your yard), or a city slicker well away from bear country, the following K.I.S.S. Bear Country Basics may prove to be valuable to anyone, and who knows, maybe it could even save your life.
Bear Basics
Most readers likely run a greater chance of encountering a black bear than any other species. The black bear can be found in many states across a large percentage of the country. Most black bears average 5-6 feet long and weigh from 150-500 pounds at best. While many black bears are indeed black in color, particularly in the Eastern U.S., these animals can also be found in various shades of brown, cinnamon and even blondish. Despite this variance in color, most black bears are either black or a much deeper shade of brown than your average brown bear. (See box below for identifying characteristics)
Brown bears, also known as Grizzly’s, are the other species of bear that one is likely to encounter in the wild. Brown bears are much less common in the wild and outside of Alaska and Canada they are likely to be found only in Montana, Idaho and Wyoming and possibly Washington. The brown bear is depicted on the California state flag however none are thought to live there currently and they are generally considered to be a threatened species south of Canada.
Browns are seen in light shades of brown, golden browns to chocolate shades and although there are variations in color as with the black bear, most browns are generally a much lighter brown than the typical black bear. Brown bears can grow to be well over 10 feet tall and weigh 1200 pounds at their biggest. The largest of these brown bears are sub-species know as Kodiak brown bears as they are found only in Kodak and surrounding islands in Alaska, although other quite large bears can be found elsewhere as well. (See link below)
Lastly, a quick note on the polar bear: If you ever see a big white bear with a black nose, and your not standing at a zoo exhibit, immediately turn and travel due South (towards the sun) as you have likely made a navigational error.
Before continuing, I would like to stress that there is no way that anyone (myself included) can predict animal behavior. However the following information is widely available and generally accepted as the best steps you can take to minimize the chances you’ll have an unwanted encounter with a bear, and if you do, some of this information may help you handle the situation. But as always, use this information, as well as that from other sources, along with your best judgment to handle any bear encounter. Also, many of these same tips and suggestions may be applicable to other predators in your area if bear do not inhabit your home or retreat location. Finally, I’d like to remind readers that this is only to be a cursory overview of bear safety information and not an exhaustive essay on the topic. For further, and more in-depth information, please see the links following the text below for more information.
On the Trail
Bear encounters while walking through the wilderness are fairly rare, but they are a serious concern to those traveling through bear country. The worst thing that a hiker can do is to sneak up on a bear or surprise them in any way. This is particularly true if the bear is with a cub(s). Groups traveling in the woods generally have less of a problem with sneaking up on a bear(s) as larger groups will tend to make enough noise to warn to bear of their location. Solo hikers or small groups run a greater risk of sneaking up (even unintentionally) and surprising a bear, thus putting them a greater risk of an unwanted encounter and possible attack.
Whether alone, in a small or large group, the best thing you can do to stay safe on the trail is to make some noise. Most any bear, and other predators will likely leave the immediate area if they know a group of people are coming their way. In this sense, the animal does not want to “encounter” you anymore than you want to “encounter” it. As a general rule, the thicker the surrounding brush and vegetation is, the more noise you want to make. High on a ridge above the tree line with great visibility, the noise becomes less important as the bear will likely smell you before they hear you anyway. But down in the forest, through the thick willows and such, making noise can prevent a dangerous situation by allowing the bear enough warning to move away from you path and avoid an encounter.
Hikers in bear country will often attach a noisemaker to their packs, such as bells, or even change in a small can to make a steady stream of sound, without requiring the hikers to continuously talk. This of course leads to the famous Alaskan joke: “How can you identify the scat from a Grizzly Bear? It’s the type with all the little bells in it.” But seriously, the bells are an effective noisemaker and have served my family (especially my kids) well over the years. Also keep on the lookout for bear sign, including tracks, scat, scratched up trees/posts and dug up ground to alert you to definite bear presence in the area.
The advice of making noise on the trail may become more of an liability than an asset in certain situations. Hunters obviously would need to observe some noise discipline once they reach their hunting grounds. Also, OPSEC concerns may cause some people to need to travel through the wilderness extremely quietly, come TEOTWAWKI. Just remember that even the largest of bears can travel extremely quietly, and when one does encounter a bear along a trail, they always seem to come from nowhere with little or no warning. My last Grizzly encounter: Three of us were hiking and stopped along the trail for a water break. I looked over my shoulder and there was an 8 foot tall Griz standing on his hind legs less than 20 feet away. He made no sound, no rustling in the willow thicket, and gave no warning at all. In those situations, keep you eyes and ears open, and be ready for anything that comes your way. (More on encountering a bear, below)
Camp Safety
This one is actually very simple, and boils down to just one thing: Keep yourself and your camp as clean and sanitary as possible.
The following bulleted points will be important in reducing the risk of a bear encounter/attack while at the campsite.
– Select a good campsite in bear country. Avoid setting up your camp next to a huge patch of blueberries (or other food source) for example. Before setting up your camp, scout the area looking for any signs of bear activity. This could be anything from a large ripped up patch of earth, to a partially eaten carcass. When in doubt, look for an alternative site. Campsites next to rushing water can also be problematic as the noise from the stream can mask the noises you may make that would alert a bear to your presence.
– Avoid packing fresh perishable foods that have a strong smell (meat, fish) that would tend to attract a bear. Dehydrated or freeze dried foods are preferred. Example: Oatmeal for breakfast will attract less attention from a bear than bacon and eggs.
– Also avoid wearing strong smelling cologne or perfume; even the scents from certain soaps and shampoos can attract a bear. Note: I always store EVERYTHING but clothing, sleeping supplies and a weapon (or 2) outside the tent site. This includes things like soap, deodorant etc. which is stored along with our food supply. NOTE: Once widely held, current theory is that bears are not attracted to a menstruating female so that should not be a big concern, but other scents should be minimized.
– Food should be stored in bear-proof containers or “bear bags,” heavy rubberized bags designed for food storage and to minimize scent transmission. If trees are present, it is best to suspend all food (and waste) at least 10 feet above the ground and 5 feet from the trunk of the tree. If possible, string a rope between 2 trees and suspend the food along the line in the space between 2 trees. This location should be well away from camp, and remember that food should never be brought into the tent or campsite.
– If above the tree line, use a bear-proof container if possible and always store food well away from the campsite. In open areas I have even used large stones to somewhat burry my food supply in a bear bag. This would likely prove useless if a bear came upon my food cache, but it always feels strange to leave a food bag simply resting on the open ground outside of camp.
– Never bring food into your tent or immediate camp area. All cooking, cleaning and food storage should be done at least 100+ feet from the outer perimeter of your campsite. (Preferably downwind from campsite)
– When ever possible, wash up before entering your campsite especially after meals to remove odors that may be present. If you have spilled food on any clothing, it is best to wash the clothing immediately or store it with your food supply if that is not possible. Do not take soiled clothing into the tent with you.
– Garbage should be disposed of immediately (packed out or burned) and dirty dishes should be washed promptly. If burning food waste, ensure that it is burned to ash and that the burning is done away from the tent site. When making a campsite make two fire pits if needed. One at your cooking site, and a “clean” fire site beside your tents to use for heat and light, but no food should be in this area.
With a little time and practice, these simple measures to prevent attracting a bear to your campsite will become second nature. Insist on keeping a clean campsite with a separate food storage and preparation site located adjacent to your tent site. A bear has average hearing and vision, but extremely sensitive sense of smell, so it is imperative to keep all odors that may be alluring to a bear well outside of your tent site.
Bear Encounters:
So you’ve let your presence be known on the trail, or you’ve done all you can to have a safe and clean campsite, but you still attract or otherwise encounter a bear. Here are some simple steps to take to help you through the situation. Again, these are just general recommendations and are not always completely foolproof as animal behavior is unpredictable. However the following recommendations are generally accepted as solid advice when encountering a bear.
– STAY CALM! Assess your situation, and use your best judgment. Remember that there are no actions guaranteed to be life saving when encountering a wild animal. A bear just like a dog or any other animal can sense fear. Screaming or throwing things or otherwise acting aggressively toward the bear may provoke an attack.
– Never feed or otherwise approach a bear. Even (or especially) a cub who appears all alone may have mom very near by, and if you are closer to the cub than the mother bear is, you will likely be seen as a threat.
– Do not run away! This should be a LAST RESORT. Running away from a predator may excite it to chase after you. (Its predatory instinct). Running can essentially turn a non-aggressive bear into a real threat. Besides bear can run as fast as 30 miles and hour, so the possibility of outrunning a bear is next to zero.
– If there is space, simply continue to face the bear and slowly back away while speaking to the bear in a calm even voice. Once a safe distance from the bear, raise your noise level so the bear can be aware of your location and attempt to find an alternative route to your destination if possible. (Note: In well over 40 unexpected bear encounters I have had, this simple technique has worked in all but a couple of situations.)
– A bear standing up on its back legs does not signal aggression or an impending charge. Generally bears will rise up on the back legs and sniff the air to better pick up your scent.
If the Bear Charges or Attacks
Here everything would essentially be thrown out the window, however here are a few ideas to keep in mind if the situation occurs. You essentially have three options: play dead, run, or stand your ground and fight. Always look for a way to avoid confrontation and leave the bear an avenue of escape if possible. Although brown bears are known for their bluff charges, consider any movement toward you as aggressive behavior (most bears will simply run away the other direction). Other aggressive behaviors include making a “whoofing” sound, and pulling back their ears or stomping the ground with their front paws. BE READY TO ACT!
– As soon as you see a bear, try and determine if you are dealing with a black or a Grizzly (brown bear) as you actions may differ depending on the animal your dealing with.
Playing Dead
This is actually a viable option, although the nerve it requires in hard to fathom. I have met one person who used this technique and lived to tell about it. This guy as his rifle tied to his pack (oops!) and couldn’t get to it in time and got charged and mauled by a brownie in the mountains outside Delta, Alaska. The pack served as a shield (he spun it around to his belly) and he laid flat on his back. His partner, about 25 yards back was able shoulder his rifle and shot the bear, as it began to charge toward him. I actually saw the bag the guy was wearing and it had some big gashes in it, and the aluminum frame was bent but the guy escaped with only bumps and bruises.
– Playing dead is only an option if you are viewed as a threat to the bear. If you startle a bear or if you get to close to a cub, you are a threat and playing dead may remove the threat for the bear and end the attack.
– If a bear attacks you in a tent, or from the open, in a situation where it has a chance to escape but charges anyway, then playing dead is most likely not an option. These types of attacks are generally by juveniles and occur in the fall when they are desperate to pack on some weight before winter. In such a scenario, you would be viewed as a source of food, not a threat, so your choices would be to run or fight back at all costs.
– It is said that playing dead is generally more effective with Grizzly bears rather than black bears. I’m not sure why that is the case, but several game biologists, park rangers as well as the bear safety presentation at the Alaska Public Lands Information Center included this information. Their message was simple, if it’s a black bear FIGHT!
Running Away
To me running away really has only two chances of being successful. One is that the bear is mounting a bluff charge, or otherwise terminates the charge as you turn to escape. Remember, even the biggest bear can run twice as fast as the average person so your chances here are slim. Two, if a Grizzly charges you and there is a climbable tree in the immediate area (big enough to escape danger and not get swatted down by the bear) running may be a good option given ample time/space. Black bears are incredible climbers and if they are looking for a meal, a tree won’t stand in their way, and thus the previous advise to fight a black bear if it attacks. Brown bear are able to climb tries but only in a very limited way. If the tree is ample size and height, it should offer you a good chance at safety from a brown.
Stand Your Ground and Fight
Again, there is noting here that any man can say that can really guide you as what to do, but here are some thoughts, and this is where we, as self-reliant people who are generally very well prepared would hopefully have an advantage over your average Joe. Your first option here is a can of bear spray which is essentially a large canister of pepper spray that shoots a large stream of chemical irritant with a range of 20-30 feet. These spray cans are quite effective and they are your only real option (under normal circumstances) in national parks, as firearms are not allowed within most parks. The big drawback with the spray is that it doesn’t last long and you don’t even want to think about spraying it into a strong wind.
I’m sure most people reading this are quite familiar with firearms so I will spare you too much detail in this department. I follow the principle of shoot the biggest round that you can comfortably and accurately shoot. I favor the .44 magnum revolver for always with you bear protection, and often carry a .45 semiautomatic as well for insurance. Larger rounds are available in droves, but I’m comfortable with the .44. I’ve heard offhand accounts of black bears being killed with a 9mm, but to me that’s just pushing your luck a bit. Still when venturing into bear country, I would take ANY firearm over none at all.
Long guns, rifles or shotguns, are of course a great too here is you have the space to use one. Rifles at least .300 [Magnum] and up would be recommended, probably bigger if you know you’ll frequently be encountering and/or hunting bear, particularly Grizzlies. Shotguns are certainly effective as well. I would recommend the heaviest shot you can get your hands on. Some people here in Alaska will alternate a slug shell with heavy shot for bear protection, which I’d assume is effective when called upon. The bottom line, like any situation where a firearm may be needed is to be prepared. I myself have had bear encounters outside my cabin where you set the shotgun down for “just one second” when nature calls, or to do some work, and out of nowhere a bear comes strolling into view. That’s why you always keep your sidearm with you if there is even a chance of a bear in the area.
One final note on shooting a bears is that they have extremely thick bone structure in their foreheads that can deflect a bullet. This is particularly true of Grizzly bears, but all bear share this trait. Th eFish and Game Department here in Alaska has some Grizzly skulls with little channels bored out in the forehead from bullets striking the skull and glancing upward. If possible, I would recommend aiming for the chest rather than the head if the bear is charging at you
In Summary
Bear encounters and attacks, as well as other predator attacks are very rare, but they do happen, so prepare for them as you would prepare any other threat that you may face. I hope that this essay will prove to be of some value to you whether preparing for a family vacation or perhaps when the SHTF. Keep in mind that these same principles can be applicable to some extent with other predatory animals as well, although each individual animal is quite unpredictable, and no book, essay or lecture can ensure your safety.
Some Links:
Alaska State Parks – Bear Safety
Black Bear Facts
Brown/Grizzly Bear Facts
Amazing Pics of Massive Grizzly – along with myths and true story of the photos
Hunting in Bear Country – tips and info with attack story