Note from JWR:

There are just 10 days left to submit your entries for Round 3 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best contest entry will win a four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. The deadline for entries for Round 3 is March 31, 2006. The first piece posted today is another fine contest entry:



Seasons of the Sun, by Tim P.

Ecclesiastes 3:1 says: “To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven.” When people read this, or read about seasons in general, I would imagine that most immediately think of the changes of seasons associated with our climate. Most do not think of the sun, except in that it seems to be much more visible here during the warm months! However, the sun has seasons, or cycles, just like we do here on earth and these can have a large effect on us. One cycle that is most readily observed is that of sunspots. These spots are regions of lower temperature and highly intense magnetic activity that move around on the surface of the sun – sometimes there are more, sometimes less of them. They can be much larger than the diameter of the earth. The spots sometimes erupt into solar flares, or coronal mass ejections, both of which can have effects on our highly delicate modern technology – particularly satellites of all kinds and our power grid – because they cause intense magnetic fields to form around the earth. These fields also cause the aurora borealis or northern lights. Periods of high sunspot activity coincide with periods of the northern lights being much more active and visible in a much greater region than their normal haunts in the Polar Regions. During high solar spot activity the northern lights have been seen as far south as Mexico!

Galileo was the first European to observe sunspots in 1610. After observing the spots for a number of years it was determined that they have a cycle of approximately 11 years where the spot activity increases and then decreases so that about every 11 years there is a peak in this activity. The year 2001 was a particularly high peak. However, the next peak – which should occur around 2012 – is showing signs of being even more severe. We have just reached the solar minimum with a serious reduction in the number of sunspots – from here on out their numbers should increase. In fact, some scientists are predicting that the next peak could be 30% – 50% stronger than the previous cycle! During that peak – in 1958 – the Northern lights were frequently visible in Mexico.

Why should anyone care? During the last peak of 2001 the Northern Lights were substantially more active and there were actually power interruptions in some places in Canada due to the magnetic fields that cause the northern lights. The fields induced eddy currents on the power lines which overloaded some of the lines and caused them to shut down. These same magnetic fields also induced currents into other long metallic objects causing damage. One example is the Alaska oil pipeline. The currents set up a galvanic reaction which caused corrosion to take place at much higher than normal rates. During solar-induced magnetic storms, the energy associated with the display of the northern lights is on the order of 100 million megawatts. That’s quite a light bulb!
Also, we are in only in the middle of the extended solar cycle and in 2012 we may reach or exceed the same level of peak sunspot activity that existed in 1958 and occurred at the end of that extended cycle. Think of all the things developed since then – satellites, cell phones, beepers, computer networks and a computer controlled power grid – electronics in general. What effects will such strong planet-wide magnetic and electrical fields have on these things? We could be in for a wild ride over the next few years.
There are other effects as well. The level of sunspot activity has an effect on the weather here on earth. During the period from about 1650 through about 1710 – and for decades following that period – the weather around the world was exceptionally cold. During that 60 year period there were only about 50 sunspots observed. With today’s conditions one would expect to observe about forty five thousand in the same period. That is certainly a significant difference!
The essentially sunspot free period from 1650 through 1710 is now known of as The Little Ice Age. This was a time where rivers that now remain ice-free froze over regularly – rivers such as the Thames in England and the Delaware in the US. Additionally, the canals in Holland froze solid regularly, the glaciers in the European Alps advanced considerably and by 1695 there was no open water anywhere around Iceland – the Atlantic Ocean around the island was frozen! Since that time the earth has warmed considerably.
Let’s look back a bit further too – at Greenland. Today it is a fairly inhospitable place. However during the period from around 982 through to about 1430 Greenland was inhabited and farmed. This is also when it acquired its name – Greenland. Some early maps call it Gruntland or Ground Land. Not nearly as appealing! It is said that when Eric the Red was exiled to the place for murder, he named it Greenland in what surely was an early marketing ploy by Mr. The Red (ha!) bent on selling people on living there. However, the fact remains that people lived there and raised sheep and some crops for close to 450 years. Yet, the weather changed and the European inhabitants left or died out. Modern archeology says those who stayed died from malnutrition – probably brought on by the weather turning colder and crops and animals dying off. If we look back even further it is now known that there was a Paleo-Eskimo culture that lived on Greenland which disappeared around 200 AD. I have no true idea of what the area was like in between. However, could it be that Greenland becomes more or less inhabitable based upon the cycles of the sun? It is an interesting thought.
In any case, you can see by looking at the following figure that sunspot activity has been increasing steadily since the time of The Little Ice Age. In fact, it appears to follow a “long” – or extended – cycle of about 80 or 85 years where there is a low and then a climb to a maximum in sunspot activity and then a drop off again. However, if you look at the graph closely it appears that the steepness of the line from minimum to maximum of each cycle is becoming slightly more steep with each passing “long” cycle. Also, note that the minimum of each of these long cycles is becoming more active. In fact, the minimum in 1970 is much higher than any of the previous minimums and also higher than all but 2 or 3 of the peaks in the previous “long” cycles! As I said above, we could be in for interesting times indeed during the next peaks which should occur around 2012, 2023, 2034 and 2045 before dropping back down to the solar minimum again.

Where will this next peak take us? I do not know. However, as we are all aware, there is certainly much talk about global warming and it being caused by man. While I do believe that the earth is warming I am not so certain of our complicity in this event. Somehow I do not think pollution here on earth is having any effect on the cycles of the sun! While we certainly do our share of polluting, etc. there are forces at work that we do not – as yet – fully understand which are MUCH larger than any that our civilization could create. Maybe the end of the current “long cycle” will bring a drop off similar to the one between 1650 and 1710 and we will all be happy to eat sauerkraut, turnips and potatoes instead of wheat and corn. Maybe someday we’ll understand it all, but only God knows what is in store for us tomorrow.



Letter Re: Threading a Rifle Muzzle for Flash Hider and Muzzle Brake

Mr. Rawles,
My compliments on your informative blog site, and best wishes for continued success. I read your thought-provoking and informative novel, Patriots, and enjoyed it very much. A few days ago you wrote, “IMHO, ‘tacticalizing’ your bolt action rifles (by threading their muzzles) is a must.” You mentioned sending a Browning A-bolt [to Holland’s of Oregon] to have the muzzle threaded. In the Survival Guns section of your website, you write, “
It is important to note that scopes are more prone to failure than any other part of a rifle. Therefore, it is wise to select a rifle with good quality iron sights, whether or not you intend to mount a scope.” You also mention that your Winchester Model 70s (which sound like they are set up very nicely) have threaded muzzles. I’ve got a great rifle with iron sights and a scope. How is there room in front of the iron sights to cut threads for a flash hider? [JWR Replies: Many brands of rifles have sufficient “beef”” forward of the front sight to allow threading. For those that don’t, either remounting a front sight or shortening a front sight base are simple tasks for any qualified gunsmith.] Also, if you have to drill out the back of a Vortex flash hider made for 5.56mm bullet clearance, could you instead use the Vortex that is made for a .30 cal instead, and not have to drill it? [JWR Replies: I recommend using the compact .223 Vortex and drilling it out, because it has standard 1/2″x28 threads, which are the same used on AR-15s and many other rifles. The threads for the .308 Vortexes are not nearly as common.]

A side note for your readers who may want a centerfire revolver that doesn’t require a FFL to purchase: R & D Drop-In Conversion Cylinders allow a shooter to convert several makes and models of black powder revolvers to a similar caliber metallic centerfire cartridge. They probably shouldn’t shoot full power loads, but they are readily available from Midway USA. Though expensive, they may fill the requirement for a new centerfire revolver you can order directly from a catalog. I’ve never used one, but a review I read on one was very positive. Thanks for your reply, and may God bless the Rawles household as you encourage your readers to live by the Boy Scout motto: “Be Prepared.” Thank you also for your bold witness for God both in your novel and on your website. A fellow patriot, – GlobalScout



Odds ‘n Sods:

U.S. Interior Secretary Gale Norton said on Monday said that it was “increasingly likely” that bird flu would be detected in the United States as early as this year.See: this page

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Category 5 Cyclone Slams Australia: CBS World News

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Hurricane Katrina: What Went Right?: http://www.outsidethebeltway.com/archives/12030

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Kevin Sites, a journalist in Afghanistan: http://hotzone.yahoo.com/

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Big caliber safari rifles: http://bigfivehq.com/

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Some interesting economic and investing commentary: http://www.safehaven.com/archives.cfm

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Silver is bouncing along at around $10.30 per ounce. That is a 16.85% gain for the year!



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"As nightfall does not come all at once, neither does oppression. In both instances, there is a twilight when everything remains seemingly unchanged. And, it is in such twilight that we all must be aware of change in the air, however slight, lest we become unwitting victims of the darkness." – Justice William O. Douglas, U.S. Supreme Court (1939-1975)



America’s Economic Woes–Some Deep Schumer in the Near Future?

The U.S. housing bubble but has not yet popped, but it is starting to make funny noises. (See: http://biz.yahoo.com/ap/060306/housing_slowdown.html?.v=2) You have probably read that the Federal debt ceiling has been raised to nine trillion dollars. (See: http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,138881,00.html) What is the point of calling it a “ceiling” if Congress keeps raising it every year? The U.S. Treasury is now technically bankrupt, but from a practical standpoint, how can you call the man with the printing press bankrupt? He just prints more, as needed. There are just more and more “fun tickets” in circulation, and their value gradually melts away. Ask anyone that has lived in South America. The same drama gets played out over and over again, in country after country. The biggest losers in an inflationary spiral will be bank depositors and pensioners. Is it any wonder that the savings rate in the U.S. is at an all-time low? Starting this week, the Federal Reserve will stop reporting the M3 aggregate money supply. This gives “Helicopter Ben” Bernanke carte blanche to monetize the Federal debt without public scrutiny. Meanwhile, both Iran and Norway are opening oil bourses that will transact their business in Euros rather than dollars. (See: http://www.europe2020.org/en/section_global/150306.htm) The U.S. trade deficit has blossomed to huge numbers–far beyond the level at which Warren Buffet issued his stern warning a year ago. (See: http://www.parapundit.com/archives/002652.html.) Taken together, this does not bode well for the U.S. Dollar. Methinks we are headed for some deep Schumer. My advice can be summed up in one word: tangibles. I recommend that you put your money in productive farm land in lightly populated dry land farming regions, precious metals, and guns. Unlike dollar-denominated investments, at least those can’t be inflated away to nothing.



David in Israel: McGyver Fixed My Car

As with many survival related expedient repairs some of these fixes could present a fire or mechanical danger. As always work/learn with a responsible experienced mechanic, one who specializes in off road racing will often have good experience in how to squeeze a few more miles out of a damaged vehicle.
Diesel Engine Glow Plugs: if the glow plug control system goes down try running a parallel power wire from the plugs straight into the cab off of the fuse panel or cigarette lighter, try to determine amperage draw ahead of time for proper switches and wiring. Power the plugs for 5-10 seconds before starting, shut off power to the plugs once the engine is running. Fuel pump: if you have an older manual carbureted model you can drip feed a carburetor, better still a gravity feed into the fuel intake will let the carb work normally.
Fuel Injection: A real problem; in case of failure a replacement intake manifold or adapter and aftermarket carburetor is the best bet, keep a set in the shop for emergency. Write in with suggestions for a diesel with electronic fuel injection (EFI). Vacuum line hose and plugs: even the spark advance
and brakes can be plugged but engine performance and braking power will suffer, most lines run to clean air gadgets.
Air Cleaner: try using pantyhose or open cell foam, be creative but be sure that it is not going to get sucked into the intake potentially ruining the engine, window screen over the throat of the carb is advisable if attempting a homemade cleaner.
Smaller engines can often be modified for crank starting, but beware kickback, look at designs for crank-started cold cars and farm equipment.
As for motorcycles an off road bike with magnetos is a good choice, how I miss my ’93 Honda X-200R bugout special. Seek one with electronic ignition over points (the EMP required to destroy this high energy rated circuit would require a detonation so close by that the bike would be destroyed by heat and blast.) An electronic ignition lasts much longer than points with no maintenance required until failure.
Here is a site with some useful information on magnetos: http://science.howstuffworks.com/question375.htm
Someone who has access to a shop could modify a diesel generator motor mount to fit a motorcycle frame, a 12 VDC motor (scavenge from a car junk yard) could be built into a hand crank generator to light the glow plug if a bike without battery is desired. A cable clutch or centrifugal clutch is needed, possibly some motorcycle transmissions will mate with a diesel motor, e-mail in if you know of such a motor/tranny combo.
If your vehicle is designed for survival applications don’t let EMP fears be foremost, instead pick an easily repairable long lasting design that conserves fuel and other expendables. For the most part even EMP aside maintainability still leads to an electronics sparse vehicle. In truth as long as there is power for the ignition everything else is optional.

If EMP is truly a fear you can’t put out of your head, [removing and] wrapping in aluminum foil of the more sensitive electronics containing ICs (integrated circuits a.k.a. computer chips) will put you at ease. As I have written before, EMP is not a realistic concern for most vehicles, look at older EMP posts. Don’t swallow the Hollywood/TV science that EMP attacks will completely destroy vehicle electronics. EMP is most likely to damage electrical and communications infrastructure, while leaving most vehicles functional.



Letter Re: The Best Guns for Investment?

Mr. Rawles,
Could you mention some ‘investment grade’ firearms for your Survival Blog readers? In other words, besides investing in silver, what firearms (handguns, carbines, etc) would be potential investments for long range 10-20 years? Thanks! – Chad

JWR Replies: The biggest price gains will probably be in pre-1899 cartridge guns, as mentioned in my Pre-1899 FAQ. In my opinion, the real “comers” in today’s market are (in no particular order):

Smith and Wesson top break revolvers. I anticipate that S&Ws will nearly “catch up” to Colt prices in the next 20 years. The .38 caliber S&W top breaks are often available for less than $300 each, and .44s for less than $800. These are available from a number of antique gun dealers including The Pre-1899 Specialist, and Jim Supica (at The Armchair Gun Show).

Whitney lever action rifles. Long ignored by collectors, the Whitney rifles should appreciate tremendously in the next decade.

FN-49 rifles, especially the Argentine .308 model with detachable 20 round magazine

Colt factory 1980s and 1990s vintage black powder revolvers, but only if they are in minty condition and in original factory black or gray boxes.

Mauser military bolt action rifles that were imported in only small numbers. These include M1894 Swedish Mauser carbines, Persian M1898 Mausers, and Brazilian Model 1894 short rifles.

Burgess pump action shotguns. These are operated by a unique sliding iron pistol grip pump lever. The first model Burgess pump action shotguns are all pre-1899 production, since the second model was introduced in 1897, and production of the first model ended later that same year. Burgess was purchased by Winchester in 1899. Serial numbers for all Burgess shotguns begin at #1000. Any Burgess that has no patent date marks later than 1896 can safely be presumed to be pre-1899 manufacture.

Unaltered U.S. Springfield .30-40 Krag rifles and carbines, especially if pre-1899. (Serial number below 152,670)

FAL and L1A1 rifles. Since the parts kits for these rifles can no longer be imported into the U.S., the price of even post-ban clones is likely to double in the next ten years.

M1895, M1896, M1897 Orange Free State contract Mauser bolt action rifles. (Marked “O.V.S.”) Some also have Chilean crests. These are original Boer war contract guns and quite sought after by collectors! All are pre-1899. You can sometimes find these on gun show table in the hands of ignorant owners who don’t know the significance of the OVS markings.

Mauser and Mosin Nagant rifles that are stamped “SA” (Suomi Army) inside an oval. Many of these were used in Finland’s “Winter War.” You can sometimes find these on gun show table in the hands of ignorant owners who don’t know the significance of the SA markings.

Early (pre-1899) Marlin lever action rifles. The only models that are certain to be legally antique are the models for which ended production before 1899: the Model 1881, 1888, Model 1889, and 1891.

Pre-1899 Winchester rifles and shotguns of all descriptions if 80%+ original finish–especially if the seller doesn’t realize that what he is selling you is pre-1899, or the significance thereof.

Pre-1964 Winchester Model 70s and lever actions if 95%+ original finish.

Galil .223 and .308 semi-auto rifles in military configuration.(Not Hadars.)

Early Detonics Pistols.

If your goal is appreciation, avoid the following varieties, whose values have recently peaked: Johnson semi-auto rifles, Merwin-Hulbert revolvers, Colt single action revolvers (some double action models are still affordable), high grade European double rifles and shotguns, SIG rifles, Uzi semi-autos, HK-91s/93s/94s, and Steyr AUG rifles. Rumor has it that the latter may be produced soon in the U.S. which would cause a crash in the price of pre-ban AUGs.Wait for the depth of the next recession to buy any of the aforementioned guns–when unemployed owners are dumping them in desperation.



Letter From Rourke Re: The Vault Room: Preparedness in Tornado Alley, and

Jim:

A vault door may not be necessary unless you really need a blast door or you are very worried about theft. If you are far enough from a likely ground zero and able to at least somewhat hide your door, a steel fire door will probably suffice nicely. For bargains, look for commercial demolitions, or contact people or companies who do this. Tell them you are looking for a swinging conventional doorway sized steel fire door, preferably with the steel frame, dent and scratch is fine. If you must buy new, find a 90 minute rated steel fire door. They have cheaper ones for residential use–commercial is always at a premium. Consistent with the recommendations for safe room doors, you want minimum six points of attachment from door to frame. The best way to do this is three strong hinges with really heavy and deep screws on one side, and three deadbolts on the other side. You should space your deadbolts top, center, and bottom of the door handle side. To really be secure, add two more, top center and bottom center of the door. Go to a lock store or home hardware suppliers and get all deadbolts keyed the same. That can provide good security and protection at a more reasonable price. For combination entry, there are combination deadbolt locks also. For EMP concerns I would stay away from electronic ones. Those little key boxes that real estate agents use are nice, and can be hidden easily so you are never without a key. http://www.nokey.com/comlocbox.html Rourke – http://groups.yahoo.com/group/survivalretreat





Note From JWR:

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From David In Israel: How Freeze Drying Works

James:
I am sure the readers are interested in the way that industrial produced freeze dried foods are made. I was a kashrut masgiach (kosher supervisor) at a major freeze dry producer in the United States before I emigrated to Israel. Mashgichim are flown all over the world to places where there is no Jewish community to certify the kosherness of foods for consumption by Jews. (The laws of kashrut are much too complex to describe here). The plant I certified had two major types of chamber one that was bus-sized and another that was the size of a minivan. Trays were fed in by an electrical railroad placed on the floor, hundreds if not thousands of pounds were freeze dried at a time. The chambers start out at below freezing when the vacuum is applied and as the time passes (the program depends on the food) the temperature is raised to (again depending on the food and its temperature tolerance) up to around 150° Fahrenheit. Freeze drying is simply quickly subliming away all of the water, the same thing that happens in freezer burn. Vacuum goes a long way to assist the subliming
process, at a vacuum of 20 mmHg, water will boil at 15°C stay below the boiling temp until almost all of the moisture is gone. Freeze drying keeps the food both feeling and tasting much fresher by maintaining the basic cellular structure of the food just desiccating. A standard food dehydrator which I have used at home radically changes both the mouth feel and flavor not to mention making for high re hydration times, there is also the question of how much nutrient is lost long term due to oxygen exposure. Vacuum pumps are available used for reasonable prices a coop might be able to purchase or build and run a small chamber. If anyone is feeling creative and builds their own freeze dry chamber, please write in with your results.



Letter Re: Canadian Source for Long Term Storage Food?

Hi Jim,
I just recently found your blog and love it! I was hoping you might be able to help me out. I’ve been trying to find Canadian sources for bulk food/storage supplies and had no luck. Do you happen to know of any? Thanks! – Kim

JWR Replies: I don’t know of any major storage food packagers in Canada. Most are just distributors for U.S. packaged storage foods, and they tack on a substantial mark-up. They offer no real value added except for being on the far side of those pesky Customs Canada minions. To minimize shipping costs, you are probably best off ordering directly from a border state, like Idaho. Two firms that I recommend there are Walton Seed and Survival Enterprises. (The latter is one of our advertisers.)



Letter Re: Making Farm Field Water Runoff Water Drinkable

James:

I’ve considered as an emergency water supply the steady runoff from the cornfield behind us. It’s always at least a steady trickle even in the driest part of summer. Will a Katadyn filter or similar remove pesticides or other chemicals from it? Or should I plan on a small water still? – Mike

JWR Replies: If working with field runoff, first use a pre-filter to remove sediment. Just a couple of thicknesses of T-shirts over a five gallon bucket works fine as a pre-filter. Using pre-filtered water will greatly extend the life of your primary filter. Next, to filter out the majority of herbicides and pesticides, you should use a two-stage filter such as a Katadyn Combi Plus filter. These are available from a variety of Internet mail order vendors, such as Dom’s Outfitters. However, keep in mind that if runoff water ever become the your main supply of water in an extended disaster situation, no filter system is 100% effective at removing herbicides and pesticides. For that, you would need either a distillation or reverse osmosis system, which are far more complex and have large power requirements.



Two Letters Re: NiMH Batteries

Jim:

If left idle, a NiMH battery loses up to 1% of its original capacity per day. (This doesn’t mean that it loses 100% in 100 days; rather, it means that after day one, it is at 99%, after day 2, it may be at 98.01%, etc. — it will theoretically never reach 0%)

I bought a Grundig/Eton FRS250 hand crank radio a year ago. I used it every day for about two months and it would run for two or three hours on a two-minute crank. I then left it idle for about 8 months, after which time it would only play for about 10 minutes on a two minute crank. Needless to say, this is highly disappointing and constitutes a major flaw for preparation. (What good is an emergency hand crank radio if it doesn’t work in an emergency?)

To (hopefully) remedy this problem, I recently ordered an adaptor/charger from the manufacturer (Eton). If you hook up the radio to the adaptor/charger and leave it plugged in, it will send a low-voltage trickle charge to the batteries to keep them “topped off.” In theory, this should drastically extend the life of the batteries. Time will tell. If, six months from now, I can get still a few hours of play time on a full crank, then I will conclude that the trickle charger is the best solution to the NiMH problem. (Note that it is possible to “fry” NiMH batteries if the trickle charger is too powerful, so do your homework if you are shopping for one.)

Frankly, as popular as hand crank emergency radios have become, I am surprised that I have never read about this flaw in reviews and discussions. A lot of people who bought these radios and keep ’em in the box are going to be sorely disappointed when the lights go out and discover that their radio doesn’t work because the batteries are nearly dead. (Of course, even if the batteries are dead, the radio will still play if yo u constantly turn the crank, but that doesn’t sound too fun.)

Moral of the story: stock up on alkaline batteries just in case. – J.S. in Virginia

Hi Jim,
Regarding the question on the blog about storing NiMH batteries. Basically they do not store very well. Nor do they seem to last as long as they are advertised to. My company makes industrial equipment that uses small (2 AA cell equivalent capacity) NiMH battery packs. When we first started using them, we believed that they would last for five+ years and hundreds, if not thousands, of charge/discharge cycles. That was an expensive assumption for us. We have found them to last only for several hundred cycles and they tend to fail even before that number of charges if they are kept on a trickle charger. It also takes several charge/discharge cycles before they work at full capacity. We have also had a lot of failures with new batteries that have been sitting on the shelf for a year or so. In a survival situation, NiMH batteries self discharge from fully charged to empty in two-to-three months, so in a survival situation you will be starting with batteries of unknown charge. I generally would recommend against them. I have a bunch of NiMH AA cells for my camera, but the only practical way to charge them is using a charger plugged into my car. If you want to go solar, it will take will take a five watt solar panel of power and about a half a day to charge four typical AA NiMH cells of 2000 maH hours plus. My plans are built around my supply of alkaline AA/AAA cells that I rotate through every couple of years. I’m confident that even if they sit for 5 years in my refrigerator, my batteries will still have a good amount of available power. Regards, – P. Smith