Four Letters Re: Solar-Powered Versus Self-Winding Watches

Jim,
With all the discussion of wristwatch options, your readers who know that it is relatively easy to learn watch making skills. Your manual or automatic watch will need cleaning and lubrication after a few years, after all.
There is an online watch school www.timezonewatchschool.com that does not appear to be a big-profit operation, but devoted to sharing the craft. They make purchasing the necessary tools and parts easy, and for about $250, you get tuition, quality tools (screwdrivers, magnifiers, etc.) a Swiss manual movement to work on, and a case to put it in on
your wrist. The second course covers lubrication, and gets you another Swiss watch for about $250 total. (The movements arrive in perfect working order, so you have a watch to start with.) And the movements aren’t junk. One is the exact movement used in $4,000 Panerai watches (it only costs $80 without the fancy logos and finishing they add to
it.)
Maybe the best preparedness approach is to buy or make a quality watch you like, and then buy several extra movements, knowing how to clean and lubricate them over the years. That is lifetime time-keeping. – Mr. Bravo

 

Jim,
Mr. Bravo has a very good point in his letter about expensive watches. When I started in golf course maintenance in 1992, one of the first things I bought was a Timex “Ironman” digital watch. I wore that watch every working day (12 days out of every 14) and most of my off days for 13 years. YEARS. I replaced the band several times (stock up on extra bands or you’ll end up with a pocket watch) but never, not even once that I can remember bought a new battery. When it finally died last year, I just retired the watch with it’s missing buttons and all.It certainly cost me a whole lot less than a “good” watch would.
Just something to think about. – DD

 

My Friend,
With regard to the discussion of Solar Powered watches, I have a bit more to add. I purchased a Citizen Eco-Drive solar powered watch in 1999, just in case. Seven years later I’m still wearing that watch on a daily basis. It has never been in for repairs and has not required a new battery. It is accurate. I’ve never had a watch hold up this well.

If there is a more reliable watch of this type out there, show me. I would not hesitate to acquire another Eco-Drive watch, given my experience. – J.H.

 

 

Dear Jim:
What time is it anyway? Since we’re on the topic of time, visit this web site and look at the sections on the history and science of sundials both permanent and portable. BTW they also sell them. See: http://www.shepherdswatch.com/
Keep in mind that the portable units only work in relatively strong sunlight. Since you must have clear visual access to the sun, they are not useful in a wooded areas and early and late times of the day when the horizon is occluded by the local geography. For nighttime use, there is a unit that uses the date and the position of the big dipper relative to the north star to give you the time, but you can do a quick mental calculation and get the same results without the tool. Again, clouds can be a problem as well as light pollution in cities.
Yes, mechanical watches need to be cleaned and can be problematic (I also had one, a Tag [Heuer], that could never be fixed), solar watches and most modern watches require batteries that will wear our or are EMP susceptible. The original spring action watches (such as Timex) many of us grew up with, (if you can find them any more) will also have a lifetime (does anybody know the lifetime of these watches?) but may be the best option. If they last a year, then get 20 of them, Unlike battery watches, they won’t go bad if unused. When their time (no pun intended) is up, toss them and get the next one. Portable timepieces were invented to allow sailors to know their position on the sea (in conjunction with the stars). They are also required for the coordination of military strikes. If you’re not out on the open sea without a functional GPS, and not concerned about (para?) military coordination, ask yourself, do you really need to know what time it is? You should be able to get within an hour on dead reckoning the sun’s location in the sky. It’s not like in a TEOTWAWKI scenario, we’ll have to get to work on time. – SF in Hawaii

JWR Replies: I foresee the greatest utility for wristwatches in a post-TEOTWAWKI environment will be tasks such as :

1.) Coordinating tactical movement and rendezvous

2.) Coordinating guard duty shifts.

3.) Monitoring the pulse and respiration rates of medical patients (Via a sweep second hand or digital readout of seconds.)

4.) Various elapsed time/distance measurements. (Such as “metering” the gallons per minute output of a spring, again via a sweep second hand or digital readout of seconds.)

5.) 330 meters per second speed of sound “Flash to bang” range estimation. (Again via a sweep second hand or digital readout of seconds.)

6.) The old standby Bradford Angier “analog watch as compass” trick. (Don’t forget to compensate seasonally for Daylight Savings Time.)

Letter Re: Survival Dollars, by Wolverine

Jim,
I would like you to consider adding additional ways to earn extra “Survival Income” to Wolverine post on Survival Dollars. One, is an addition to his collecting and selling scrap metal. I take a five gallon bucket with me to the outdoor range in the Sumter National Forest and collect all the brass I can between shooting sessions. The best time is Sunday afternoon, to get all the weekend shooters left. In 4-5 weekends I filled a five gallon bucket and maybe 1/3 of another and made $87.

The other weekend income job I have is putting out and taking up the Realtor directional signs. It takes me less than 1-1/2 hours to put then out Friday evening and the same or less to pick them up on Sunday evenings. I bought a used 5′ X 8′ trailer for $150 and put about $100 in the jack system and paint/lights. I put out 145 [signs] and pick them up in less than three hours. This makes me around $232 every two weeks, and I am able to “write off” my mileage. Check your local sign maker in the yellow pages for routes. – Bill K.

Letter Re: Five Watt Folding Photovoltaic Panels

James:

I see that Northern Tool is a SurvivalBlog sponsor. A particular item you might want to recommend is this: It is a 5-watt folding solar panel for only $39. I have several, I think they’re incredibly good for a BOB or other uses. They’re about the size of a paperback book, even lighter, and produce enough power to charge batteries fairly quickly. It’s an incredible deal for anyone who is concerned about losing power. My family keeps one or two in each of our BOBs. Highly recommended! – Bill

JWR Replies: That is a great item. But so that SurvivalBlog will earn a commission, please always use this link to Northern Tool & Equipment, and then place your order. Thanks!

Letter Re: Railroads Tracks and Right of Ways as Bug-Out Routes

Jim,
Just came across a site showing 1948 Rand McNally Railroad Maps of different states in the U.S. I’m always looking for alternate routes of travel around choke points and finally found something of possible use. Granted it’s 1948, however, I think there are still a lot of tracks out there. Some I know have been removed but have been turned into hiking trails and such. http://trains.rockycrater.org/pfmsig/atlas.php Hope this is useful. – Larry in Kansas

Letter Re: Sun-Blocking Clothing

Hi Jim,
In SurvivalBlog 07/07/06, SF in Hawaii said:”(choose) hats and lightweight but sun blocking clothes over sunscreen.” I am a “Prototype Caucasian” who sun burns in 15 minutes (EEK!). In fact, without gloves, my hands burn while just driving my car here in Connecticut.
I am a BIG proponent of sun blocking clothing, and have been very pleased with my purchases from Sun Precautions.
Their clothing beats sunscreen, hands down! – Douglas in CT

Letter Re: Rebar as a Chainsaw Stopper in Wood Frame Construction

Jim,
I have a friend that is getting ready to build an outbuilding in his backyard. It is basically going to be a finished “shed.” We were talking about how to harden it, and I made the suggestion to drill half inch holes through the [vertical] 2x4s and run rebar through them [horizontally]. This would at least make it a little harder for someone to use a chainsaw on the walls. Is this an old idea, or did I come up with something new? – Gung Ho

JWR Replies: That is a great idea! The expense of buying enough rebar to equip a shed as you describe is quite modest. I assume the North American wood frame construction standard of placing 2×4 vertical studs on 18 centers, and supplementing with horizontal pieces of rebar at 18″ intervals inside the exterior walls. Result: You will ruin the day of anyone that tries to chain saw their way in. However, keep in mind that it will still leave the doors and windows as “weakest links.” Thanks again for sending your creative ideas!

Odds ‘n Sods:

David in Israel Recommends: When purchasing a proper long life bicycle don’t even consider Wal-Mart or other big box stores. Your local bike shop has proper mechanics tools and trained staff who can help you find a bike to meet your needs. tell them that you have always considered a long bike trek in Mexico or some third world nation and will need durable components. A cheap Chinese import bike will usually turn you off from cycling before you even get started and the component life span is not very good. Your cycle is much like your rifle a proper investment and skilled maintenance is required to keep it in top shape.

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Michael Z. Williamson spotted this novel product at a gun show: A camouflage pattern that incorporates Christian symbols.

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The Pre-1899 Specialist is continuing their sale on hand-picked Model 1893 Oberndorf Mauser rifles, at just $179.95 each, (with bayonet and scabbard) or $159.95 each if you buy two.) As previously mentioned, this certainly beats paying Sportsman’s Guide $299 for one in rougher condition. I recommend that every SurvivalBlog reader buy one or two of these from The Pre-1899 Specialist, while they still have some left. (They are going fast and they don’t have many left.) No FFL is required since they are Federally exempt. No paperwork is required for most locales. (Even California!)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“It will be of little avail to the people, that the laws are made by men of their own choice, if the laws be so voluminous that they cannot be read, or so incoherent that they cannot be understood; if they be repealed or revised before they are promulgated, or undergo such incessant changes that no man, who knows what the law is to-day, can guess what it will be to-morrow.” – Alexander Hamilton

Note From JWR:

My thanks to the many SurvivalBlog readers that ordered my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course during the recent pre-publication sales promotion. I have noted it as an indication that I may eventually be able to make a living at freelance writing and blogging. My next task is to get the expanded edition of my novel “Patriots” into print. I recently signed a contract with a new publisher. I am hopeful to begin shipping orders for the book in September or October. (It all depends on the publisher’s book production schedule.)

I’m posting the following article that I penned as a sample of what is included in my preparedness course

Do It Yourself Bulk Food Storage: Buckets, Oxygen Absorbers, Desiccants, and CO2

From what I’ve heard letters and e-mails, most SurvivalBlog readers already have a food storage program, but most of them would like to move on to the next step: buying and storing foods in bulk. To save money you will probably want to buy rice, wheat, and beans in 50 pound sacks. Sacks are problematic, since what you really want is a vermin-proof, moisture proof container that is air tight and preferably evacuated of oxygen. Those are the keys to true long term shelf life, and none of them are provided by a cloth, paper, or woven plastic sack. The solution is to re-pack bulk foods in food grade plastic buckets. Here is how to do it:

Food grade five or six gallon bucket with rubber “o-ring” seals are available through a variety of Internet vendors. Be sure to specify “food grade” when you buy. Other buckets intended for products like paint are not safe for use in food storage, even if bought brand new. Although these usually have the same white plastic formulation, they are typically manufactured using a different mold release agent, which is toxic. So don’t buy paint buckets!
Used food grade buckets are often available for free or perhaps a dollar apiece if you ask around at local delicatessens and bakeries. Flour buckets are usually best, since buckets that were used for pickles or peppers might leave you with food that has undesired flavors!

The method that I use is as follows: Line a bucket with a large plastic bag and pour in the wheat, rice, or beans, shaking the bucket and tapping it on the floor several times to get the bag completely full. You don’t want any air gaps. Fill the bag so that the bucket is filled to within one inch of the top. Then toss two Oxygen absorbing packets (available from NitroPak) into the bag. Next, place a small chunk of dry ice on top of the grain, inside the liner bag. I usually use a piece that is about as big as my thumb. As the dry ice “melts” (sublimates) it will fill the bucket with CO2, displacing the oxygen. (Insects can’t breathe CO2!) Keep a watchful eye on the dry ice. Once it has sublimated to the diameter of a nickel and not any thicker than 1/8th inch, seal the bag with a wire twist tie. On top of the sealed bag, place a 2 ounce bag of silica gel desiccant. (Also available from from NitroPak.) Then immediately seal the bucket, securing the lid with firm strikes from a rubber mallet. This will seat the lid and compress the o-ring. WARNING: If you don’t wait until the dry ice has nearly completely sublimated before you seal the bucket, then dangerous pressure could develop. (A “dry ice bomb.”) Again, you must wait until the dry ice chunk has sublimated to the diameter of a nickel, and not any thicker than 1/8th inch. The end result: Very dry food in a sealed, oxygen-free environment, safe from mice. This method will triple or quadruple the shelf like of rice and beans, and make whole grain wheat last literally for decades.
Another method that can be used in place of dry ice is a CO2 probe or “wand”, attached with a hose to a compressed cylinder of CO2 . A complete description of dry ice and CO2 probe methods can be found in Alan T. Hagan’s excellent Food Storage FAQ at Captain Dave’s site.
Once you open each bucket of storage food, you will probably want to replace the standard “pound on” lid with a screw closure “Gamma Seal” lid. These lids have an inset screw top, so that they are more convenient to access for daily use. Gamma Seal lids are available through a number of Internet vendors such as Walton Feed and NitroPak, for around six dollars each. If you want to buy 20 or more lids, you can get them directly from the manufacturer, at www.gammaseals.com.

Letter Re: Advice on Setting Up a Precious Metals IRA

Dear Jim:
I am in the process of converting my U.S. Dollar-based Individual Retirement Account (IRA) into a precious metals IRA.

1.) Do you recommend it to be based in silver? Silver bars or Eagles?

2.) Or do you recommend (based on current prices,etc.) it to be in gold? Gold bullion or Eagles?

3.) Or do suggest a combination of both metals? If so what percentages and what types?
Thanks again for you considered opinions. B’Shem Yahshua HaMoshiach Sar Shalom (In the Name of Yahshua the Messiah Prince of Peace) – Dr. Sidney Zweibel

JWR Replies: If the storage fee is not significantly higher, then I strongly recommend getting all silver (or nearly all silver) for your IRA, rather than gold. Silver’s long term investment potential is so much greater. (If nothing else because silver gets used up industrially, whereas gold is 99% recycled. See the recent article: “Is silver becoming more rare than gold?”) In my estimation, the price of gold may double in the next couple of years, buy silver has the potential to quadruple or more.

The dealer premium on one ounce U.S. Mint Silver Eagles is very steep, so I generally recommend getting silver in 100 ounce increments, such as serialized Engelhard bars. The folks at Swiss America can help you get your precious metals IRA established. OBTW, since they are one of our advertisers, please mention SurvivalBlog when you contact them.

Odds ‘n Sods:

SurvivalBlog reader “Keiser” mentioned that SustainableLiving.org has some interesting commentary on the economic implications of a long term oil shortage.

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David in Israel Recommends: In the event of a power grid outage a hand crank cellular phone charger (available on eBay) can keep you talking. At least as long as the fuel lasts for the generators at the cell towers. (And not all of them have backup power.)

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It is good to see that the spot price of silver has bounced back to the vicinity of $11.35 per ounce. I expect that the annual precious metals market “summer doldrums” will continue through August, with only modest gains, and perhaps even some more profit taking. But come September, watch out! It is then likely that the silver bull will resume his charge, propelling the price of silver past $15 per ounce. OBTW, I hope that you took my advice when silver had its correction in May and June. You briefly had the chance to buy silver at under $10 per ounce. That probably won’t happen again for quite some time. As always, buy low, sell high.

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Newsmax reports that the UN Small Arms and Light Weapons Conference ended in a stalemate, with no agreement upon an “outcome document.”

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Weapons compound man’s power to achieve; they amplify the capabilities of both the good man and the bad, and to exactly the same degree, having no will of their own. Thus we must regard them as servants, not masters – and good servants to good men. Without them, man is diminished, and his opportunities to fulfill his destiny are lessened. An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it.” – Col. Jeff Cooper