Odds ‘n Sods:

RBS mentioned an interesting article that ran in Popular Mechanics magazine, back in 2001: E-Bombs And Terrorists

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“Crazy” to ignore commodities plays, says a JP Morgan fund manager

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The derivatives bubble continues to expand, Bloomberg reports: “The global derivatives market grew at the fastest pace in at least nine years during 2006 as the amount of contracts based on bonds more than doubled to $29 trillion, the Bank for International Settlements said today.”

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A useful reference on EMP and TREE shielding, from TM 5-690: ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE (EMP) PROTECTION



#1 Son’s Quote of the Day:

“If the statists think that they will ever totally disarm our citizenry, then they are dreaming. Even by conservative estimates there is nearly one gun for every man, woman and child in these United States. Now to put that in context, consider the current “decommissioning” process in Northern Ireland. The whole peace process there currently hinges on less than 800 guns. The IRA won’t give them up. Now please don’t misunderstand me: I don’t support the IRA. It is clearly a terrorist group with a leadership that espouses Marxist philosophy. The reason that I mention the Irish situation is to illustrate how absurd it is to think that the gun grabbers will ever get their hands on more than 90% of our guns. And even if they ever do get 90% that will still leave nearly 30 million guns, primarily in the hands of those who will also retain the willingness to use them in the defense of their liberty.” – James Wesley, Rawles (2002)



Reader Poll: List Your Top Five Survival Fiction Books and Top Five Survival Movies

“OSOM” suggested this poll: List your top five fiction books and top five fictional movies that help folks learn something useful for survival. OSOM’s comment: “Jim’s novel Patriots has been called a ‘survival manual fairly neatly dressed as a work of fiction.’ I believe that reading fictional tales is critical to prepare yourself mentally and spiritually for hard times, and helps intellectually to work out the variables in different situations.”

I’ll kick off this new poll with my own list. Please send your lists in the same format via e-mail and I will post them anonymously. Thanks!

Fiction Books:
Lucifer’s Hammer, by Larry Niven and Jerry Pournelle
Alas, Babylon by Pat Frank
Pulling Through by Dean Ing
Some Will Not Die by Algis Budrys
No Blade of Grass by John Christopher

Movies:
Farewell to the King
Jeremiah Johnson
Open Range
The Pianist
The Postman

(Yes, I know, I mentioned two Kevin Costner movies in my list. But they are worth watching.)



From the Memsahib: Developing Wildfire Defensive Space at Your Home or Retreat

Much of the western U.S. is starting to look dry as the Spring rains are over in many areas and the annual grasses have already gone to seed and turned brown. With major fires burning in several states, it seems timely to discuss the”defensive space” of your property. [JWR Adds: Not to be confused with “ballistic” defensive space, which I recently addressed in SurvivalBlog.] The goal is to prevent a forest fire from reaching your house by reducing the amount of fuel for a fire near your home. When forest fires lack fuel crown fires drop to ground fires. Ground fires burn slower and are easier to contain. The recommended defensive space plan divides the area around your house into three zones.

Zone One is 0-to-15 feet all around your home. It is recommended that you have no trees and no large shrubs in this zone if you live in an area prone to wildfires. If you do have landscaping close to your house, then it should be a plant species that is not readily combustible. Succulent groundcover plants are recommended. Better yet would be decorative rocks! The idea is that there should be no organic fuel within 15 feet of your home.

Zone Two is 15-to-75+ feet area around your home. In this area it is recommended that trees are spaced so that there is a ten feet space between the outermost edges of the branches of each tree. This means large trees might need to be spaced 30 or 40 feet between the trucks of the trees. The purpose is so that a “crown” forest fire would not be able to jump from crown to crown within your defensive space. You do not want to give a ground fire a “ladder” to climb into the crowns of your trees, so it is recommended that you remove all the limbs which are within 10 feet of the ground. You should also not allow thick underbrush to grow around your trees which could feed a fire and also serve as a ladder. Note that if your house is on a hillside, then Zone 2 might be as far as 125 feet downhill.

Zone Three is from the outer edge of Zone Two to the edge of your property. (Zone Three was described by one web page as “an area of traditional forest management and is of no particular size. It extends from the edge of your defensible space to your property boundaries.”)

By the time you have created a proper defensive space around your home the landscaping is not going to look too “natural”. It will be much more like a town park than a natural habitat. But, that is a sacrifice I’m willing to make in order to defend our home against forest fires.



Letter Re: Lock Picks as Survival Tools

Mr. Rawles,
first off, let me compliment you on your writings. I just finished Patriots, and was highly impressed with it. I’ve already loaned it to a friend to read, and I will probably end up ordering another copy so I can use the book as reference. I have also just ordered your books : SurvivalBlog: The Best of the Blog – Volume 1 and Rawles on Retreats and Relocation. One item that I haven’t seen on any list of supplies on your site is a set of lock picks. They have many uses, whether around the house or in a G.O.O.D. bag. They also weigh next to nothing, and take up very little space. I would recommend buying just a small set of 5 picks and a tension wrench. The big sets are useful for specific applications, but are overkill for 90% of the tasks the will be used for. A set of shortened lock picks and a tension wrench can be carried on a key ring next to your keys, or in your wallet. I carry a set in the liner of my billfold. There is a myriad of uses for a set of lock picks. Several times I’ve had to let my friends back into their houses, because the locked themselves out. This could be a catastrophe in a survival situation when the house is especially secure from intruders. A key hidden outside the house is always a good idea, but sometimes people forget to replace them after they let themselves back in. (I’ve done it myself).
For cars, the most common tool is a set of jiggler keys. These resemble ground down or smoothed car keys. They work by moving the key rapidly up and down in the lock while putting rotational pressure on lock cylinder. These are only effective on older cars, because newer cars have sophisticated systems to prevent theft. While bugging out, losing the keys to car could cost you your supplies, or even your life. My advice is keep an extra key somewhere in or on the vehicle. A set of jiggler keys might allow you to get in without breaking a window.If you don’t have a key, many old cars can be started with a piece of wire and a screwdriver. For a more permanent solution the ignition can be bypassed and a starter switch installed.
Lock picking is a skill anyone can learn, and when you get good at it, a standard 5-pin tumbler lock should take less than a minute. These tools allow you to reuse your locks. Instead of drilling a lock out or cutting it off and leaving your property wide open, a lock pick lets you get in, re-lock the door or gate, and replace the lock at your convenience. A more advanced approach would be taking a locksmithing class, and becoming certified. I bet this will be a useful trade to have after TEOTWAWKI. I’m not advocating breaking and entering, and I would only suggest you use lock picks in a legal, and more importantly, ethical manner. But used properly, a set of lock picks is a valuable tool. I hope you find this useful.
Your fan, P.D.

JWR Replies: In addition to lock picks, every well-prepared individual should own a “universal key”–a pair of 36″ bolt cutters. They can get you through locked gates in a pinch. (You never know when someone might misplace a key.) They are also useful for cutting re-bar and other metal working tasks. The ones that are priced below $30 are made in China and not very sturdy. Expect to pay between $80 and $140 for an American-made pair of 36″ bolt cutters.



Odds ‘n Sods:

S.H. found an article by Brian Tiemann, describing his tour of the InfoBunker–an ex-USAF facility retrofitted for ultra-secure data storage.

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Todd Savage mentioned an interesting retreat property in northern Idaho that he has toured and found worthy: It is an off-grid (PV-powered) 2,000 square foot 5 bedroom house on 40 acres, in Boundary County. The property has “end of the road privacy” and a large pond. For details, contact Todd at his new office in Bonner’s Ferry, at: (208) 946-1151.

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SF in Hawaii recommended this Red Cross book on emergency surgery, available for free download in PDF.

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This may seem minor to our Australian readers (where they have far more poisonous snake problems), but Early Trends May Point to Record Snakebite Season in U.S.



The Memsahib’s Quote of the Day:

"As an Army officer, I learned that in order to be effective, an army must have three key abilities: To move, shoot, and communicate. Take away any one, and you are ineffective. But if you get all three right, you can absolutely devastate an opponent—even one that has vastly superior numbers." – James Wesley, Rawles



Note from JWR:

Many thanks to those of you that have recently signed up for the 10 Cent Challenge. Your subscriptions are greatly appreciated. Subscriptions are entirely voluntary, but are an important part of my livelihood. (All those $3 per month PayPal payment do add up!)



Letter Re: Consider The Downside of HOAs and CC&Rs Before Making a Land Purchase

Dear Mr. and Mrs. Rawles;
I live in so-called “rural” western Oregon. Last month I sold my home that was in a Homeowner’s Association (HOA) and moved to a slightly bigger place (3.5 acres, versus 2 )[that is] a few miles farther out into the country, outside of any HOA. Living there [inside the HOA] was worse than living inside city limits. I was forced to move [because] they had some CC&Rs that made it very diffiicult–if not downright impossible–to prepare for a disaster. Under the [“covenants, conditions, and restrictions”] CC&Rs, my storage space for all my survival goodies was limited because there was a covenant that limited me to just one garden shed measuring no larger than 15′ x 15′ that “matched the architectural style of the house.” I couldn’t put up any other storage structure. There were also [restrictive] covenants on RV storage, boats and boat trailers, box [utility] trailers, [house] paint schemes (approved colors only!), antennas, pools, ponds, flags, [political] campaign signs, and on and on. They are so anal about their precious covenants that it gets downright laughable. Committees for this and committees for that. All meetings [run] by [Robert’s} Rules of Order. The worst of it all was that even though the HOA development was all outside city limits and we all had lot [size]s of at least one acre, we were limited to two cats, two dogs, and one horse. Period. No other animals. No substitutions and no exceptions–unless somebody was a “grandfathered” resident that had owned a house there before 1985. I tried fighting the system, politely, for a couple of years. But I finally gave up and moved.

So my advice is : Don’t ever buy property inside a HOA, and certainly never inside city limits! Sincerely, – H.D..in Oregon

JWR Replies: I agree, wholeheartedly! Most survivalists don’t feel very comfortable inside city limits, or inside a HOA development. Let me reiterate some of my key points from one of my first SurvivalBlog posts:

You will gain several advantages if you live outside of city limits: You will avoid city taxes. You will most likely be on well or spring water instead of city water. In many cities because of zoning laws it is illegal to drill your own water well–since the utility companies want to maintain their monopoly. Operating a home business generally requires a city business license and a visit from the fire marshal. And of course, it is illegal to discharge a firearm inside city limits in most jurisdictions.

It is essential to look ahead to eventual growth. If your new “country” place is on fairly level ground and just a mile outside city limits, odds are that it will be inside city limits in a few years! Do some prognostication on the ‘line of march” of the advancing phalanxes of “Ticky Tacky Houses”, and plan accordingly.

Avoid states or counties with restrictive zoning laws. Zoning laws and homeowner’s association (HOA) restrictions may restrict the style of home that you build, the number and type of outbuildings, limits on “for profit” agriculture and the size of garden plots, livestock raising, timber harvesting, operation of a home-based businesses, pond and road construction, and hunting or target shooting on your own land.

Those Dreaded CC&Rs
Unless you buy in a pro-gun covenant community, beware of buying a house or land with CC&Rs. As you mentioned, these are contractual agreements that restrict the use of the land. CC&Rs are typically mandated in “planned communities” where the developer or the HOA makes it conditional on owning a home that specific appearance standards be maintained. They can be fairly benign, such as delimiting the colors houses can be painted. But in some cases, like yours, CC&Rs can be outrageously totalitarian. Some do not allow a car that is more than five years old to be parked in view of the street, or do not allow visiting relatives to park an RV in your driveway or on the street in front of your house.

A “private gated community” might outwardly seem like a safe place to buy a house, but there are some serious potential drawbacks. A planned community with typical restrictions can present an uphill battle for preparedness provisions. At the very least, it makes preparedness much more expensive. In spite of all the disadvantages, some readers may be able to afford both preparedness and luxury, and may wish for the professional networking and social environment that attracts others to luxury gated communities. A private, gated community has obvious superficial advantages in security, in that outsiders are conspicuous. Residents tend to be more aware of those who are out of place. Such communities, at their best may function like small towns and enjoy some of their advantages. (But good luck finding a welding shop or plumber in Pinecrest Estates!) Some gated communities can be more social and insular, so that neighbors tend to be better acquainted than in ordinary neighborhoods. At the very least, members will begin with an “us” mentality as any crisis approaches. (In previous posts, I’ve referred to this as the “We/They Paradigm.”) See Mr. & Mrs. Bravo’s profile at the Retreat Owners Profiles web page for more on the pros and cons od living inside a “private, gated community.”

Mr. Bravo reminded me that there are some advantages to HOA developments. (Although not enough to tip the scales, in my opinion.) He noted the following advantages: Homeowners in typical gated communities often fit the helpless model of urbanites. However, a community in one of the small-government, low-tax, gun-friendly states is more likely to attract conservatives who share the principles held by survivalists. The retired California executive might not seem like the ideal preparedness neighbor, until you learn that he picked Utah because he is a shooting enthusiast, and is already well ahead of you in preparedness provisions. Even the “ranchette” or “dualie pickup” mindset can be a good start, as owners probably have at least some preparedness inclinations, perhaps without even yet realizing it. If you can, imagine the guys at a neighborhood barbecue boasting about who has the largest propane tank or the best-equipped shop. You get the idea.

Gated communities in suitable Western states may have a significant number of part-time residents. These occasional residents may already be thinking of their mountain home as a crisis retreat, and some may be especially receptive to programs that enhance the security of their “retreat” when away, and which keep it secure prior to their arrival in a crisis. Some such homes can be expected to remain unclaimed by their owners, and may at least be a last resort to shelter others in need. (With prior consent, naturally.) The collective mindset and character of an existing community should be evaluated before purchasing, to assess whether there is hope for the community to function in a crisis. Meet people, learn about the community “culture,” and decide for yourself. If you are considering a purchase in a new development, ask yourself if you are prepared to be a leader, to educate others, and to set an example without standing out as an oddball. As times change, association rules can be changed, and this takes a leader. Ideally, one influential individual will eventually convince some neighbors of the importance of preparedness. They too have already selected a good geographic region. To avoid marking yourself as the “neighborhood survivalist” (leading not only to social embarrassment, but also to the hordes at your door in a true crisis) start slowly.

Most who pay the premium for a gated community are already quite security conscious. Initiate seminars in security and crisis communication. Foster the “neighborhood watch” mindset. It can later morph into a neighborhood watch on steroids, if necessary, to meet changing conditions. Your neighbors will probably have invested thousands in security systems, and perhaps much more in “safe rooms” or “panic rooms”. Many may be interested in further enhancing their security. A seminar on earthquake/flood/fire preparedness may be welcome, and the discussions should help identify those receptive to much more diligent preparedness. Others may be interested in an expert guest speaker on firearms selection and tactics for home security. Listen to the questions and discussions to identify those with the best potential. Create a “security” subcommittee packed with the right people, and begin to make palatable recommendations to the community board. (This avoids the “lone crackpot” appearance.) Keep in mind that the best prepared and wisest neighbors will not be quick to talk about their provisions, so take the time to get to know your neighbors, just as if you were in a small rural town.

Some communities may have restrictions that are not onerous to preparations, but which require creativity. Private wells may be prohibited, but rainwater recovery is a viable alternative. Where visible propane tanks are prohibited, buried tanks may be acceptable–and desirable for other reasons. Solar systems may be purchased but left uninstalled until a crisis is imminent. This is not ideal, as anyone who has set up such a system knows. Consider getting a self-contained trailer-mounted system that sits in a spare garage bay. A proviso: If you roll it out in your driveway for use during a crisis be sure to put it up on blocks and remove the wheels to make the trailer more difficult to steal. Outbuildings may not be allowed, but large basement spaces provide a good alternative, although at a significant cost.

While gated communities adjacent to big cities in problematic areas like Chicago and Atlanta will never be viable, there are attractive communities in the Intermountain West that are well removed from these risks. For those who insist on the amenities of a planned community, and who can afford them without compromising on preparedness essentials, these bedroom communities may be found within an hour’s drive of cities like Bend, Oregon, Reno, Nevada, Salt Lake City, Utah, and others throughout the West. For the rest of us who face real-world financial constraints, we are much better off finding a home where we are not asked to pay extra for preparedness constraints that are difficult or expensive to overcome. The greatest mistake is to overspend on a home, perpetually deferring prepared provisions.

Is living in a gated community right for you? Give it some serious thought, and do your research. Experience has shown that a typical homeowners association tends to be organized and operated by a busybody retiree with a Hitler complex and nothing better to do than make everyone else’s lives miserable. But of course YMMV.

Covenant Communities
The flip side to commercially-developed “gated communities” is the prospect of finding (or forming) a Covenant Community with like-minded survivalists. In the late 1990s, the Mormon survivalist leader and highly decorated war hero Bo Gritz formed one such community. It is called Almost Heaven, near Kamiah, Idaho. It has had mixed results, since a good portion of those buying land there were concerned about the Y2K date rollover computer crisis. When Y2K thankfully turned out to be a non-event, many of those landowners moved on, leaving a much different group of people owning land there.



Letter Re: Photovoltaic Versus Diesel Power Generation for Retreat

James:
A note about an article you have posted – by David T. It is absolutely not correct. I realize that SurvivalBlog is not dedicated to diesel technology – but since you posted it, I figured I’d comment. I was a Stanadyne pump technician since the 6.2 diesel engine was invented ca. 1982. That’s the engine he’s talking about. I am also well versed in the history of that diesel pump, both in civilian use and in the U.S. military. Our military has had a miserable time with early failures – since the 6.2 and 6.5 diesels power many Humvees and trucks overseas in Iraq and Afghanistan. I suspect David T. knows nothing about the pump himself and is believing garbage that someone else has fed him.

The Stanadyne DB2 pump – (only pump used on the 6.2 diesel – and only pump used on military 6.2s and 6.5s) is available with what is called the “Arctic Thin-fuel” package. Any pump with the “1.2cS ” at the end of it’s tag has the package installed. For example, the following is military pump number with the kit: DB2829-4879 10149634 19901?2 HMMWV (Military) – 1.2 cSt G. When added, the kit only modifies a small portion of the pump and had nothing to do with the major parts that usually wear out. The U.S. military did extensive testing with the kit installed and found that it does not increase pump life.

Also, the kit adds about $40 to the repair cost, certainly not 50% more. Sounds like he’s getting ripped off.

I will also add that these pumps do not get rebuilt – although that is the way they are marketed. They are usually only “repaired”, and that is different. Major wear parts are just about never renewed because they are too expensive. So, when you buy a “rebuilt” pump, is it already a used pump, not the same as new. A pump, when brought in, is taken apart, resealed, new minor parts installed, and recalibrated. If it needs more than that, it’s usually scrapped.- JD in New York.







Note from JWR:

I’m interested in hearing from some more of our overseas readers. (There are lots of you, in more than 70 countries.) I’d really like to expand the Retreat Owners Profiles page, to reflect the wide range of approaches that are used in other regions to increase a family’s survivability. I’d particularly like to hear from anyone that lives in a country plagued by economic troubles and/or social upheaval. I’d also appreciate hearing from anyone living in a country with a severe climate–such as an arctic or desert regions. I’m sure that the readers of SurvivalBlog will benefit from reading about your lives. Thanks!



Letter Re: Questions on British Berkefeld Water Filters and Eastern U.S. Retreat Locales

Jim,
My wife and I are ready to make a purchase of a water purifier. I have taken your advise as a reader of SurvivalBlog and researched the Berkey products and I also looked at Aquarian. I have decided on the Berkey and am leaning toward the Travel Berkey Water Purifier that is listed on Get Ready Industries web site at $199.
This unit appears to be usable on the go and as a purification unit in a retreat situation. I would like you thoughts on this unit when you have time.

For your information we live in eastern Kansas about 50 mile south of the Kansas City area. In the event of an emergency situation we intend to head to southwest Missouri to join with family in a rural area where we all grew up and farmed. My wife and I want to distance ourselves from the general population from the city as they will eventually be on the move depending on the circumstances.
I have noticed that Missouri is not on your list of the top 19 states for retreat [locales]. I was wondering why. Is it the upper air currents in the event of a nuke?

Thank you for what you do! God bless you and your family, – Bill

JWR Replies: The Travel Berky filter is a good choice. It is designed to last many years. British Berkefeld filters are available from a variety of Internet vendors including two that are SurvivalBlog advertisers (You already mentioned Get Ready Industries.) They are also available from Ready Made Resources,

In answer to your question on Missouri’s retreat potential: After much consideration, all of the eastern states were intentionally excluded from my retreat potential analysis because they are all either downwind of nuclear targets and/or they are in areas with excessive population density. This wasn’t just the result of subjective bias. I try to use the dispassionate mindset of an actuarial accountant. I discussed the following in a SurvivalBlog post on August 5, 2005, but with so many new readers, it bears repeating::

Take a look at The Lights of the U.S. photo map at: www.darksky.org. This montage of satellite photos makes it clear that most of America’s population is east of the Missouri River and is highly urbanized. The population density of the U.S. is dramatically lower west of the Missouri River. In troubled times fewer people means fewer problems. In the event of a social upheaval, rioting, urban looting, et cetera, living on a farm west of the Missouri will mean a statistically much lower chance of coming face to face with lawless rioters or looters When The Schumer Hits The Fan (WTSHTF). Furthermore, the northeastern states depend on nuclear power plants for 47% of their electricity. (South Carolina is similarly dependent.) This is an unacceptable level of high technology systems dependence, particularly in light of the emerging terrorist threat.

You must also consider that virtually all of the eastern states are downwind of major nuclear targets–most notably the USAF missile fields in Montana, the Dakotas, and northern Colorado. (Take a look at the fallout prediction maps hosted at Richard Fleetwood’s excellent Survival Ring web site. As you can see, the eastern U.S. would be blanketed in fallout in the event of a major nuclear attack ) If for one reason or another you are stuck in the east, consider New Hampshire or Vermont. They are both gun friendly and have more self-sufficient lifestyle. But unless you have some compelling reason to stay in the East, I most strongly encourage you to Go West!

The other startling thing you will notice when looking at the Lights of the U.S. photo montage is that even in the western states, Americans live in a highly urbanized society. Roughly 90% of the population is crammed into 5% of the land area, mostly within 50 miles of the coast. But there are large patches of the west where there are virtually no lights at all–particularly in the Great Basin region that extends from the back side of the Sierra Nevada mountains to Utah and Eastern Oregon. (It is a desert area with highly localized water sources.) The average population density in this region is less than two people per square mile. While on a tri to visit some consulting clients, I recently took a drive through eastern Oregon on Highway 97. There is a fairly prominent sign just north of Madras., Oregon. It reads: “R2 Ranch, No Hunting or Trespassing, Next 32 miles.” The ranch does indeed extend for 30+ miles on both sides of the highway, section after section. (For the benefit of our foreign readers more familiar with hectare land measurements: a section is 640 acres–one mile by one mile square.) This illustrates the grand scale of western ranches. Much of the western U.S. has plenty of “elbow room.” The tradeoff is that it takes a lot of acreage to support just a few cattle in an arid region.) Here is another example of the low population density of the west that I often like to cite; Idaho County, Idaho: This one county measures 8,485 square miles–bigger than Connecticut and Rhode Island combined. But it has a population of just 15,400. And of those residents, roughly 3,300 people live in Grangeville, the county seat. Who lives in the rest of the County? Nary a soul. There are far more deer and elk than there are people. The population density of the county is 1.8 people per square mile. The county has more than 3 million acres of U.S. Forest Service land, BLM land, and designated Federal wilderness areas. Now that is elbow room!



Letter Re: Photovoltaic Versus Diesel Power Generation for Retreats

Jim:
In case anyone questions the source, the injection pump tip that I mentioned came from a large rebuilder who has seen the interval between rebuilds dropping to as low as six months on pumps with standard parts. Older pumps were designed to be lubed by high sulfur Diesel fuel. Since I was buying a rebuilt injection pump for my veggie oil non-turbo 6.2L Suburban, he strongly recommended the stainless version, which cost 50% more. Lubricity of veggie oil is far higher than any Diesel fuel, but in cold climates we start and stop the engine on straight Diesel. In Mississippi, it wouldn’t be an issue, especially in summer months.- David T.