Notes from JWR:

The current SurvivalBlog Benefit Auction ends at midnight (eastern time) tonight. The high bid for the lot is now at $300. This auction is for four items: a MURS Alert Base station, a MURS Alert Hand-held transceiver, an earbud, and a Kaito KA-1102 AM/FM/Shortwave. These radios were kindly donated by the owner of Affordable Shortwaves and MURS Radios. If you aren’t familiar with the Dakota Alert infrared perimeter security system, take a few minute to look at the Dakota Alert web site. These alarms are very reliable and versatile. I often recommend them to my consulting clients–especially those that plan to have lightly-manned retreats. You can easily set up multiple detector/transmitter sensors to provide 360 degree perimeter security for a large area. Instead of just a generic alarm, they will let you know which sensor was tripped, via a computer-generated voice message to a radio that you can carry on your belt. (Such as “Alert, Zone Two.”) The same radio can be used for point-to-point voice communications, on the little-used MURS band. The three radios have a retail value of $210, plus shipping. Please e-mail us your bids, in $10 increments.

Today we present another article for Round 16 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win two valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificates. (Worth up to $4,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. Round 16 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entries. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

Getting from Point A to Point B, by E.I.D.

You’ve got your Bug Out Bags (BOBs) all packed. You’ve prepped your house for whatever reason you’re leaving. You’ve made contact with what family you could, and you trust the rest to meet you at your designated meeting place, whether it’s your retreat or just a spot along the way where your two paths converge. Everything is set. Or is it? Points A and B are ready, but how do you plan to make the trek between them?
Walking is always an option, but probably a last resort. Most people aren’t in good enough shape to walk ten miles, let alone 100 and over the course of a few days. Cramps and blisters become unbearable, and joints seize up. Adverse weather, whether hot or cold, can become lethal. Other humans (travelers, police, military) can be dangers, and so can feral and wild animals. Not to mention, you can only bring what you can carry. Walk if you must, but don’t let it be plan A. In fact, keep it at plan D or further.

A bike is a good option, but again, requires some level of fitness. Bikes can be fitted with cargo containers on the front and back (as well as new packs that strap to the frame), and thus allow you to carry more than you could on foot. However, a bike presents a new group of possible problems that must be addressed, and therefore you should always attach the following to your bike frame or in an attached pack or basket: a tire pump (foot pumps are best as they are smaller), a tire patch-kit, a small can of leak-stop, and tools to reset the chain should it pop loose. Reflectors and a headlight for your bike is a must for night-riding, and some are available that are powered by your pedaling, much like a hand-cranked flashlight. Otherwise, pack extra batteries. There are solid foam rubber inner tubes that will eliminate your need for a patch kit, but there are many mixed reviews on these tubes, because they tend to also decrease energy efficiency. A mountain bike will allow you to ride off-road should the need arise, but again, you lose energy efficiency over a road bike. If you’re in excellent shape, efficiency might not be as big an issue for you – likewise if you’re not too far from your retreat. Take all this into consideration. A bike with multiple gears is better for energy efficiency, but it also presents more moving parts which can break along the way. To maximize your chances of making it on a bike, fitting your bike with a small gasoline powered engine is best.

These small gasoline engines turn your bike into a virtual moped. You get up to speed by pedaling and then engage the engine. These engines can get up to 250 miles per gallon going 25 mph on flat road. Unfortunately, they may only hold a gallon of gas. However, you can easily fit a 2 gallon jerry can (or jug, if you’re in a hurry) of gasoline in the back basket of your bike, and refill along the way, if your destination is further than 250 miles. You might say “motorcycles get good miles per gallon too” and you would be right, but they also require a lot more investment and maintenance than a bike, and aren’t as easily strapped to the back of a larger vehicle. If you’re considering buying one, ask yourself “Do I want a motorcycle because it’s a practical form of transportation, or because I think its cool?” I would ask you to reconsider and look into a newer-model moped. They can go fast enough for practical purposes, get great miles per gallon, and if they break down, they simply turn into a bicycle! I call that insurance. Unlike a motorcycle, you can carry a moped across otherwise impassable obstacles (such as streams or deep mud), and if you crash, you don’t have to worry about it crushing you. Mopeds get 100-150 miles per gallon, and most only hold a gallon of gas. Is your bug-out site 100 to 150 miles away? If not, can you easily and safely carry enough gas to make up the difference? If not, how far will you be pedaling the moped after it runs out, and on what kind of terrain? You can always pedal in the straight-aways and down-hills, saving your gas for the difficult stretches, but this is still not your best option, obviously. Ideally, you want an automobile.

An automobile is something you don’t want to be without in a bug-out scenario, if you can help it. Most of us have vehicles, but not every vehicle is created equal. However, I’m not going to discuss what vehicles are the best, because not many of you are going to go out and buy a new vehicle to prepare for an arguably improbable contingency, and anyway, plenty of good articles already exist on the subject of bug-out vehicles. Any vehicle is better than no vehicle, but there are things you can do to your existing vehicle to make it not only better prepared for bugging out, but also better prepared for everyday life.

First, how many miles per gallon does your car/truck get? What size is the fuel tank? Multiply your MPG by the size of your tank, and that’s how far you’re going to get before your car becomes nothing more than a metal tent. For example, my car gets 24 MPG on average, and I have a 15 gallon tank. That means I can probably drive about 360 miles, but that’s going to vary depending on weather, wind, temperature, terrain and even how much I’ve packed. I recently spent a minor amount of money on a tune-up, lube, tire-rotation, and a few small items that improve my vehicle’s MPG. These included a fuel magnetizer, a performance chip, and an air-intake insert. Each item is supposed to improve MPG by about 2, but in reality, they might raise my MPG to 25 or 26. Still that would extend my viable mileage to roughly 390 miles. That’s an extra 30 miles on the same tank of gas, and that’s nothing to scoff at! Don’t you think that’s worth it? [JWR Adds: Magnetic “fuel economy” devices have been tested extensively by Popular Science magazine (and others), and have been proven to have no effectiveness. Don’t bother.] In the meantime, with rising fuel prices, you’ll be saving gas and money… so why wouldn’t you invest in these things? There is more I can do, as well, including getting a better air filter, keeping my tires at the correct pressure, using a fuel-additive, keeping my tires aligned, and practicing my “light-foot” driving, meaning attempting to keep my RPMs at a low constant while driving. There are probably body modifications that will improve airflow, and replacement parts that will perform more efficiently than the stock parts currently under my hood. All of these are sound investments during the current fuel crisis, even if you never have to bug out. Perhaps a more automotively informed reader can compile a list of these parts and modifications – I, on the other hand, will merely encourage you to seek them out and invest in them.

However, we are assuming that gas stations will either sell-out, close, or be so inundated with customers after a crisis that you’ll have to rely on a single tank of gas. If you don’t think this is realistic, just look back at what happened on 9-11. People sprinted to the pumps so fast that many stations ran out, had lines around the block, or, in the case of a certain establishment in my home town, raised prices 300% and illegally reaped the benefits of the panic. If that happens, and you’ve only got a quarter tank, it doesn’t matter what your MPG is, as you’re only going to be able to go 1/2 of your total distance. You can avoid this by filling up your tank more often. You’ll pay the same amount, but in smaller portions and more often. Try filling up every time you get to half a tank, and then eventually every time you get down to 3/4 of a tank. You may find that you prefer it, as it doesn’t feel like you’re just dropping fifty bucks into your fuel-tank. You’ll also rest easy knowing you can easily drive nearly your vehicle’s full range at a moment’s notice.

If you have a gas can at home for fueling the mower, keep it full as well. Fill it every time you see gas prices drop, and tell yourself you’re just saving money by stocking up while the prices are low. If you suddenly have to leave, you can use rope or bungee cables to strap the gas can to the luggage rack atop your car, or throw it in the bed of your truck. Try to avoid putting it inside the car with you, as this is very dangerous on many levels, but if you have to, you can put it in the trunk as a last resort. Be sure to open the trunk every so often to allow any possible fumes to dissipate (or open the windows if you keep it inside the cab), and pour it into the main tank as soon as the tank will take it, rather than waiting until you run out.

What about the other problems that are possible with an automobile? In order to build a list of priorities, first ask yourself “What could happen to my car that would make it impossible for me to drive it?” Then, go down the list and say “Which of these things has ever happened to me? Which have happened to people I know? Which are probable? Which can I possibly prepare for and fix on the road?” For example, you simply can’t prepare for total engine failure, brake failure, transmission failure, a broken axel, etc… unless you perceive these as likely problems with your specific automobile, in which case you should get them fixed before an emergency occurs, because problems like this are next to impossible to fix in the field (for an average Joe like me, anyway).

What common problems can you prepare for? Easy ones include: flat tires, blown fuses, low fluids, dead battery, burned out lights, leaky hoses and low fuel (which we’ve already discussed).
Preparing for these problems will allow you to save yourself from the hassle and cost of towing your vehicle, and possibly even the cost of taking it to a mechanic, depending on the severity of the problem and the quality of your repair. Obviously, some problems will have to be addressed by a mechanic, but a quick fix on your part can get you out of a sticky situation. For example, if you break down on a small highway outside a small town and there aren’t any mechanics open on Sunday, then you’re faced with either paying a huge towing fee, or spending the night in said small town until the next day, at which time the mechanic will surely overcharge you because you’re a know-nothing townie who’ll never be back that way again. It’s not like you’ll have many options at that point.

To begin, ascertain the current qualities of your car regarding its current equipment and space for additional storage of emergency supplies. Does your car have a spare tire? Is it a full size tire or a donut? If at all possible, you should have a full size spare. Next time you get your tires replaced, have the one in best condition placed in your trunk as your spare, or purchase a cheap refurbished tire for the same purpose. Give the donut to the mechanic for a discount. A full sized spare will allow you to carry on as before after changing a flat, unlike a donut which will require you to drive slowly and avoid adverse terrain. If you can’t fit a full sized spare in your car, then consider repairing the flat with a patch kit. A patch/plug kit is cheap, easy to use, but will also require the purchase of a tire pump. Small electric pumps can be purchased that will plug into your cigarette lighter and take up very little space. If you don’t like to rely on your car battery, you can get chargeable emergency-starter/air-compressor combo units that work great, or you can simply pack a bicycle foot pump (yes, it will take a while to fill a car tire with it, but that’s what they did in the old days, and you’ll do what you have to do when the need arises). “Where should I keep all this stuff!?” you ask.

Does your car have extra cargo storage in the spare tire compartment, in or around the spare? Are there other side compartments in the trunk? Drivers of trucks won’t need to worry about this, and should merely get a metal truck-toolbox, plastic toolbox, or cargo box to store their supplies in. If you don’t have storage space, a smaller cargo box can also be purchased (or built) to fit in your trunk. I would suggest including the following in that box:
1. Non-electronic tire gauge
2. Extra fuses
3. Roll of duct tape for securing a cracked window or fixing a leaky hose (or a million other things)
4. Hand crank LED flashlight (or standard bright light and extra lithium batteries)
5. Jumper cables
6. Tire plug/patch kit
7. Small electric air compressor, or a foot-pump, if you’re a hoss
8. A couple extra head/tail light bulbs
9. Small bottles of replacement fluids (oil, coolant, power-steering fluid with leak-stop, transmission fluid)
10. A couple of rags
11. Lock de-icer (which does you no good if you leave it in the car during a freeze. If you suspect cold weather and a possible freeze, keep it outside the car.
12. Some strong rope. How much? Enough to tie your trunk down, tie something to the luggage rack, or tie to the car to pull and dislodge it if stuck.
13. A fuel siphon hose and pump (inertial pumps are cheap and work well)
14. Bungee cords

If there’s room, you could also put your car-BOB in this box. You should also keep the following in the glove box: an electronic tire gauge, a small flashlight, an ice scraper, and a solid multi-tool with a knife blade. The pliers-style multi-tools are best, as they can be used to break out the car windows in an emergency. Just grip the pliers’ handles together, holding them upside down, and smash the nose end of the pliers against the window with a hammer-fist motion. The localized force should make short work of the window, though repeated blows in the same spot might be necessary.
Everyone should also keep wet-naps and napkins in their glove-box, as they’re not only useful for everyday cleaning, but also for limited first aid applications: clean the wound with a wet-nap, cover it with a few tightly folded napkins, and hold this down with some duct tape from the trunk. I also suggest that everyone put a magnetic key-box under their car with a spare key in it, because your fancy keyless entry is worthless when its attached to your keychain…and you lose your keys or lock them in your car. Don’t put the magnetic key-box in an easily visible and accessible spot where any Joe can look under your car and see it, but in a safe, inconspicuous spot such as on the top surface of an exposed portion of the frame or any metal component, between the gas tank and gas tank shield (if your car has one), or under/behind a bumper. If Joe is looking for a key-stash, he’s likely moving quickly. He’s going to look under many cars, quickly, until he finds an easy target, or a car with an easily seen and easily accessible key-box.

There are a few optional tools you might consider to further your preparedness, the most logical and pragmatic of which is the battery jump-starter. They aren’t cheap, but they aren’t expensive either, and depending on the environment and circumstances in which your battery dies, you may either not see another passerby or you may not want to see another passerby. A dead battery is one of those problems that require a second, working battery in order to give it life. In place of a second, running vehicle driven by a stranger, you can purchase a battery jump-starter. Most will simply plug into your cigarette lighter or home wall socket until charged, and in the event of a dead battery, will jumpstart the car. Most also have sockets to run electrical appliances for a short time, such as your electric tire compressor, if your car’s electrical systems fail. In older cars, this is no big deal, as the car will still run with a dead battery or bad wiring (as long as you can jump-start it). I once had a car in which the electrical systems fried while I was driving. Everything electrical shut off, and smoke poured out of the dash and from under the hood. However, the car was already running, and I easily drove it across town to the mechanic (with the windows down). In newer cars, where the engine and electrical systems are interdependent, an electrical failure could mean that your car isn’t going anywhere. Many of the higher-end battery jump-starters actually have air-compressors, lanterns, and even radios built right in. That way, you can save money and cargo space by consolidating.

Another practical device to have on hand is a handheld CB radio. I have one that fits into a box about the size of a bible and plugs into the cigarette lighter. There’s a magnetic antenna that you put up on the roof, and then you’ve got instant communication. This is a good option for maintaining communication while traveling with other cars in case your cell phone either loses service or runs out of power. I’ve personally used it during a traffic jam to listen in on the truckers as they informed one another on the situation. It can also be used to ask other unknown drivers for directions, stop suggestions, and even to call for help in the event of an emergency. It’s also good, in addition to the poncho and cold weather gear undoubtedly already in your BOB, to keep a good pair of athletic shoes in the car. If you are forced out on your bike or on foot, you don’t want to be stuck wearing the dress shoes you had on at work when you were forced to flee.

So, what’s the best practical option for bugging out? Max out your vehicle’s MPG, equip it with a BOB and an emergency box, buy a bike rack for the back of your vehicle, buy a good bike and equip it with cargo baskets, an emergency repair pack and a small gasoline moped-motor, buy a large gas can and a small gas can and keep them full in your tool shed. Ride the bike when running short errands to stay in shape. Use the moped motor on your bike to run medium range errands, pedal when you can to stay in shape, and bring the groceries home in the cargo baskets. Drive your car on long errands and save money because you maxed out the MPG. Put your bike on your vehicle’s bike rack and take it with you on long trips; ride your bike around the downtown area of wherever you’re going, or perhaps just from the hotel to the nearby restaurant. Save Gas. Stay in shape. Have fun. Can you argue with any of that? Can you!?

Boom. The Schumer hits the fan. You’ve got to get outta town. No problem, your gas tank is 1/2 full. You top it off with your large gas can, and put the remainder in your bike’s moped-motor. You attach the bike to the bike-rack and bungee the small gas can into its cargo basket. You load up and you’re on your way. You have a flat outside of town. No problem, you change the tire and you’re on your way… or you would be, but the car won’t start. No problem, you use your battery jump-starter and you’re on your way. You have another flat. Son of a… no problem, you patch the hole with your patch kit, air up the tire with your small electric compressor, and you’re on your way. The car starts to overheat. No problem, you refill the coolant, turn on the heater, open the windows and you’re on your way. You stop make a quick stop the urinate by the roadside…oh wait, you locked your keys in your car. No problem, you’ve got a spare hidden under the back bumper, and you’re on your way. You’re getting pretty low on gas, so you go ahead and pour your small gas can into the car’s tank. A while later, you’re getting low again, but before you can do anything about it, you look up from the gas gauge in time to see a sedan stalled in the middle of the road. Too late.

You smash into it, totaling your car. You have a gash on your left arm from the window, but otherwise, you’re okay. The seatbelt won’t unbuckle, so you get your multi-tool from the glove box and cut it. You also bandage the gash on your arm with napkins and duct tape. You can do a better job later with the med-kit in your BOB. The car’s power is still on, so you plug in your CB and check all channels. Nothing. No problem, you top off the charge of your battery jump-starter using the car’s battery, and load it and your CB into the cargo basket of your bike. You use your hose and pump to siphon the fuel from your car into the small gas can. You try to do the same to the sedan, but it’s got a valve in the fuel intake preventing you from doing so. No problem, you check to make sure the sedan’s engine is cool, and then use your knife and cut the fuel line. Being careful to avoid the initial spray, you drain what you can into the small gas can, and bungee it into your bike’s other cargo basket. You plug your CB into the jump-starter and set it on scan. You strap your BOB onto your back [or mo-ped cargo rack] and your athletic shoes on your feet, and start pedaling down the road, saving the motor for when you get tired.

Eventually, you do get tired, and you ride a few hours on the motor. A day or so later, and you’re out of gas. Luckily, you can still siphon fuel from any abandoned vehicles you find, or walk the bike up the hills and then jump on and coast down the other side. Eventually, you make it to your destination.

No, obviously not all of these problems would occur in such rapid succession. Maybe none of them would, or perhaps one or two… or maybe more. This story illustrates, however, how a little planning can prepare you for any combination of likely problems that stand between you and your destination. You never know when a problem will occur or and what problem it will be, and spending a little money now on things that will benefit you regardless in the meantime will save you from uttering the following words in a real emergency: “Aw crud… if only I had…”

Odds ‘n Sods:

For several months I’ve been pointing to the Federal Reserve’s data on bank reserves. The latest numbers are downright frightening. In particular, see the bottom of the “Non-borrowed Reserves” column. (Thanks to “Tanker” for alerting me to the latest update to the Fed data.) OBTW, don’t miss this article: US banks Citigroup and Merrill Lynch reveal fresh $15bn loss

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The latest addition to my blog roll is Target Rich Environment. I found this blog both humorous and insightful.

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I noticed that the folks at Green Mountain Gear have expanded their product line to include more types of Katadyn water filters. Check them out.

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From the International Herald Tribune: U.S. housing collapse spreads overseas

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them." – Thomas Jefferson

Notes from JWR:

A SurvivalBlog reader in Iraq e-mailed me to mention that the Wikipedia page “James Wesley Rawles” has been proposed for deletion. If you have experience with Wikipedia and have an opinion one way or the other, then please post your comments. (Needless to say, I can’t comment there personally, or it would be a conflict of interest.) If you do post, please be civil!

The high bid in the current SurvivalBlog Benefit Auction (which tomorrow night) is now at $260. This auction is for four items: a MURS Alert Base station, a MURS Alert Hand-held transceiver, an earbud, and a Kaito KA-1102 AM/FM/Shortwave. These radios were kindly donated by the owner of Affordable Shortwaves and MURS Radios. If you aren’t familiar with the Dakota Alert infrared perimeter security system, take a few minute to look at the Dakota Alert web site. These alarms are very reliable and versatile. I often recommend them to my consulting clients–especially those that plan to have lightly-manned retreats. You can easily set up multiple detector/transmitter sensors to provide 360 degree perimeter security for a large area. Instead of just a generic alarm, they will let you know which sensor was tripped, via a computer-generated voice message to a radio that you can carry on your belt. (Such as “Alert, Zone Two.”) The same radio can be used for point-to-point voice communications, on the little-used MURS band. The three radios have a retail value of $210, plus shipping. The auction ends at midnight tomorrow (April 15th). Please e-mail us your bids, in $10 increments.

Letter Re: The Importance of Acquiring and Learning to Use Traditional Tools

Jim,
For those readers that have livestock they need to prepare for the day when hydrocarbon fuel may not be available for tractors. I would suggest a buck rake and a pull-behind sickle mower that a horse could pull. It beats cutting hay by hand. These items can often be picked up at farm and ranch auctions. Enough hay can be put up for a few cows, horses and sheep for the winter months when snow may cover grazing ground.

I would recommend a treadle sewing machine. Clothes will need to be mended and taken care of until society gets back on its feet and power is restored. Make sure you have extra needles, bobbins, thread and a couple of belts. In an ideal situation a family should also have an extra treadle machine that is capable of doing leather work for shoes and horse tack.

I would recommend a selection of sharpening stones and at least one black oil stone for straight razors. A selection of saw sets for properly setting teethe of regular hand saws and two man cross cut saws. A good felling saw should be picked up also.

If thing stay bad long enough, traditional hand tools will be a must. A good crosscut saw is nearly as quick as a chain saw. Axes with good steel are capable of [being sharpened for] shaving. These are just some thoughts that I have not noticed on your site. – Clyde

Letter Re: Advice on Post-WTSHTF Weather Forecasting and Barometers

Sir:
I just realized that if the Schumer impacts the oscillator that we won’t have a clue about upcoming weather without the National Weather Service. Being able to predict future weather will be very important for gardening, hay cutting, and on and on. What do you recommend? A barometer? Thx, – Barry

JWR Replies: A barometer is indeed the most important forecasting tool. Luckily, they are fairly easy to find in second hand stores. Make sure that you get one with a finely-gradated scale and with a proper elevation offset adjustment in the back. (If you live at high elevation–such as Colorado–be advised that not all barometers have adjustments that go that high!) If you want a new barometer, there are several models available from Wind & Weather (one of our affiliate advertisers). From now until the end of May, they have a special SurvivalBlog $15 discount on any purchase over $100. Use coupon code “WSAS”.

OBTW, be sure refer to the recent discussion in SurvivalBlog about do-it-yourself forecasting, including sky-reading.

Letter Re: Getting Physical with Silver Futures Contracts

Jim,
Congratulations on the continuing success of your blog site.

I think your readers would like some information regarding physical delivery of silver from futures contracts. I’ve never done this, or even known anyone who has, but it seems rational nowadays. One question I have is what type of mark or assay comes with, say, a 1,000 ounce delivery.

I also think many readers are interested in questions of how to plan “getting tangible” with their retirement accounts, by which I mean no paper. I know I have to think about this quite seriously. Felicitations, – Patrick (an American Ex-Pat in Asia)

JWR Replies: There are of course humorous apocryphal stories about a futures trader finding 100 “live lean hogs” left on his doorstep. But be advised that most futures and options markets are entirely “cash settled”, so you can’t take physical delivery even if you want to. Ask your broker if your particular market allows the alternative of physical delivery. Odds are that it doesn’t.

As for “getting physical” with retirement accounts, if you don’t want to take the tax and withdrawal penalty of cashing out, I strongly recommend rolling over IRA and 401(k) accounts into Gold American Eagle vault storage IRA accounts available through Swiss America Trading Corp. I have had one of these accounts since the early 1990s, starting when I first worked in the corporate world. At the time, my co-workers thought that I was crazy. But I had the last laugh, in the long run. In the Spring of 2000, when I worked as a technical writer for Oracle Corporation, I was buying one ounce Gold Eagles for my Gold IRA at around $290 per ounce. Meanwhile, many of my co-workers were enthusiastically buying Oracle stock at around $40 per share (split adjusted) through the employee stock purchase plan (ESPP). Oracle now sells for around $19.50 per share. But their loss is even worse when you consider inflation.

Letter Re: Using Dry Chlorine for Water Treatment

Jim::
To answer Steve W.’s question: “How much dry chlorine would be needed to make a one gallon batch of standard 5.25% chlorine bleach?”:

In the conversion of dry hypochlorite to liquid (bleach), since all the percentages are by weight, it is easy to calculate the amount needed to reconstitute 5.25% hypochlorite bleach. Since dry is about 55% active, it should be diluted roughly 10-fold by weight (one pound to 10 pounds water). So, you would need 8/10 pound or about 12 ounces per gallon of reconstituted liquid bleach. Then the standard formulas could be applied for the final mixing with water for sanitizing.

Safety Warning: Be very careful when mixing dry hypochlorite with water, add it slowly and watch for overheating and beware of splashing. Wearing goggles for eye protection is mandatory! Cheers. – JB in Nashville

Odds ‘n Sods:

Frank in Arizona wrote to ask me how much longer Front Sight’s “Get a Gun” training and gear package offer will still be available. From what I’ve heard, it won’t be very long, since Front Sight is running this promotion at near their cost. Don’t dawdle on this and miss out, folks! I can’t think of a better purpose for your upcoming Federal tax “economic stimulus” check. Those checks (for up to $1,200 per married couple) will be mailed out starting in May, so you might want to employ your credit card, in advance! If Nancy Pelosi and Chuck Schumer only knew what you were planning to do with that check!

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Neil G. found this: Food Crisis Looms in Bangladesh.

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Reader David A. mentioned a new personal digital radiation monitor. It is the Ludlum’s Model 25. David notes: “The range for the Model 25 is .01mR/hr to 1999 R/hr, it is the size of a cell phone, making it perfect for anyone who wants to know when to evacuate or head to a shelter. There is a maximum allowed dose timer to 50R. The unit costs $495.”

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G-7 Signals Concern on Dollar’s Slide, Weaker Growth (Speaking of which, watch the US Dollar Index closely in coming weeks. As I’ve mentioned before, analysts note that 72 is currently the magic number. If the USD Index cannot hold 72, then we can expect more market turmoil, and substantially higher precious metals prices.)

Notes from JWR:

Today, after church, I plan to do some target shooting with my kids. I guess I’m just a conservative dinosaur, “clinging to guns and religion.”

Be sure to take a look at the many new listings at SurvivalRealty.com, particularly in Idaho and North Carolina.

Letter Re: Scottish Highland: The Ideal Choice for Survival Beef Cattle

Yesterday, as I sat up in the warm spring sunshine in one of our hilltop pastures watching a newborn Scottish Highland calf interact with its mother, my thoughts drifted back to all the reasons behind our initial decision to choose this breed ten years ago. Given our experience since then, I have to conclude that it was an excellent decision, and one which I think would benefit your readers.
We raise registered Scottish Highland cattle because we like the qualities of this breed over all others. Esthetically, they are impressive, with long, shaggy hair and sweeping horns. While those horns can be intimidating, as a breed they are gentle and intelligent (well, for cows…). For quality of beef we find them to be unmatched: Excellent flavor, very little fat, tender, and juicy. Highlands have demonstrably low levels of cholesterol, for those of us who need to be careful. Highlands are an old breed, the oldest registered breed, and have had their genetics left largely unchanged for the past several thousand years

While the aesthetics and taste are important, more desirable as a long-term source of food are the breed’s bovine characteristics. Most significant, in my mind, is how little care they require. These beasts are built for self reliance and independence. They are extremely resistant to diseases. Their thick coat and thick hide protect them from weather, insects, and injury. The long hair over their eyes provides a very welcome relief from flies in the summer. And those thick, lush, hairy hides make incredible rugs and bed-covers on cold winter nights. We do a lot of winter camping and stay toasty warm under one, with no sleeping bags needed.

Their calves are born small, so they rarely need assistance in birthing and they rarely lose a calf. To date we’ve never had to pull a calf, and our herd has numbered as many as 45.
Equally important is the breed’s ability to forage. Like any cow, they prefer lush grass in the summer, and hay in the winter. But in times of drought or blizzards, they will eat just about anything. In fact, some Highland owners rent out their cattle to folks who want to clear the briars and brush from their woods. These are tough, resilient animals. Another plus is that they don’t require great fencing (we don’t use any electric fence). They show little interest in getting out of their pasture. They will if the fence is down (e.g., when a tree has fallen over it), but they typically wander back in on their own.
A bonus for folks who live in or near wilderness areas are the horns. Though they never use the horns in their own dominance struggles (they merely push heads), the horns are formidable weapons against predators. When coyotes enter our pasture, the alarm is sounded, and the mommas form a circle, facing out, with their babies safely in the middle (like musk oxen). The coyotes steer a wide course around them. It’s an impressive sight.

Our cattle are raised as naturally as possible. They have free-range access to lush pastures and clear creek and spring water. They do not require and are given no commercial feed supplements of any kind (i.e., no need to worry about contamination from feed containing animal byproducts or unknown chemicals). They are not given growth hormones, or antibiotics as a feed supplement. They are completely grass fed except for small amounts of rolled corn used for training. Routine feeding of grain to cattle is a waste of money; it merely produces fat. And, research suggests that exclusively grass-fed beef contains elevated levels of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), a natural anticarcinogen, and markedly lower saturated fat levels. Feedlot beef (which is what one gets in a supermarket) is not grass fed, and those cattle are given large quantities of grains and chemical feed supplements.

With advantages come disadvantages: Highlands are a slow-growing breed. While most commercial breeds go to market in a year and a half, Highlands take an extra year. The same is true of breeding age—Highlands are bred at age 2-1/2, while other breeds are done at age 1-1/2. This is why you don’t see huge herds of Highlands in the beef growing states. But countering this slower growth is the fact that Highlands will continue breeding well into their teens. An acquaintance of ours recently had a calf born to a 19-year-old cow.

In sum, I don’t believe there is a better choice of breed for folks who want to have some beef cattle around. We had Angus prior to the Highlands. There’s no comparison. These cattle are ideal for rugged wilderness areas with mountainous climates prone to severe storms. But they also do well in warmer climates, with breeders throughout the American South. Where to find them? There are breeders in nearly every state. Go online to the American Highland Cattle Association. When shopping, deal with folks who raise and sell beef cattle, as opposed to those interested in show animals. The latter will cost 2-4 times as much as the former. And they taste the same. – Jack A.

Letter Re: A Severe Storm Provides a Valuable Lesson

Hi Jim,
I’m a long time reader. I wanted to relate to you a recent experience I had, which may be of value to SurvivalBlog readers. I live in a state that is prone to tornados and severe weather. We recently had
a storm tear through our area, causing several million dollars in damage across much of the state, my neighborhood notwithstanding. My wife and I went to bed Wednesday evening, expecting only scattered thunderstorms. What we awoke to at 3:30am was much, much more than a thunderstorm. As I looked out our bedroom’s open window, I saw and heard wind and rain, the likes of which I’ve never witnessed in all my 45 years. I nudged my wife and simply said “closet”. Now, she knows her husband as the guy who, instead of going for shelter, he usually goes outside to observe and satisfy his unbridled curiosty. When she heard me say “closet”, she knew it was serious.

Within four minutes, we were hunkered down in the closet, with everything we needed, including our surplus Kevlar helmets (the wife no longer thinks I’m nuts for making that purchase). I thought we were going to lose the house.

We lost only trees and fences, but we learned a very valuable lesson. We were very ill prepared for that experience. Now, I pride myself on being one of the better prepared families in my neighborhood, if not the best prepared, but four minutes is unacceptable. We now have in place a setup that puts us in the closet with everything we need in under thirty seconds (assuming the cat can be efficiently herded).

This got me to thinking; What if we had to actually bug out and leave our home? Are we prepared? I know that I’m still extremely unprepared for such an event, so that plan is now underway.

My point is this. Never, ever, under any circumstances, should we underestimate the need to be prepared for an emergency. My experience that night could have been much worse (60 hours later we got our electric power back, but we were very well prepared to go very long lengths of time without power), so I was lucky this time. You’ve devoted your life to hammering this home for your readers, so I thank you, once again, for the wisdom you provide. Now, it has become very real for me to actually heed that wisdom and put it into practice. A year’s supply of food means nothing to me, if its scattered over a square mile of my neighborhood. Thanks, Jim, and thank you once again for SurvivalBlog.com. God Bless, – HHH

JWR Replies: Thanks for relating that experience. Anyone living in Hurricane or Tornado country should invest in a reinforced shelter, if it is financially feasible. Ideally, it should be designed to also serve as a security vault (“gun vault”) and as a fallout shelter. One of our advertisers, Safecastle, has extensive experience in building such shelters. These are usually-equipped with gun-vault type doors, that open inward. If you live in an area with a high water table, they can be constructed aboveground. If you can afford to build an entire house that is highly storm resistant, then you might consider building a monolithic dome home. One monolithic dome home contractor in the Midwest that I recommend is Bill Fraley of Global Dome Builders. Phone: (715) 926-3668.

Letter Re: Advice on Home School Curriculum Resources

Dear Editor:

We are fed up with the public schools. At the end of the current school year, we plan to pull our children out of public school and homeschool them. What curriculum do you recommend? Thanks, – W.J.

 

The Memsahib Replies: It is difficult to recommend just one brand or type of curriculum. There are many different learning styles as well different teaching styles. We really like using materials that have a Christian perspective such as . We use the Alpha Omega course books as our core curriculum. But, I also enjoy pulling in other resources to reinforce concepts, or for enrichment. We suggest that you join your local homeschooling group as soon as possible. Often homeschooling groups have used curriculum sales in May. You will have the chance to talk with the other parents and see first hand some of the materials that are out there. We can’t overemphasize the importance of getting plugged-in with other homeschoolers in your area as soon as possible. These groups will be an important resource for learning all the local opportunities for co-op classes, field trips, and social activities. They’ll also know the local school district and state requirements for homeschooling. They can be a real source of encouragement for new homeschoolers. (OBTW, for those of you who are using like us, please consider purchasing the curriculum using the link in our scrolling ad bar to support SurvivalBlog. Thanks!)