Notes from JWR:

The high bid is already at $250 in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction for a brand new Big Berkey water filter, kindly donated by Ready Made Resources. They are one of our most loyal advertisers. The auction ends on August 15th. Just e-mail us your bid.

Today we present another article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 ends on July 31st. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

Repairing Gardening Hand Tools, by Christian Souljer

Being able to plant your own vegetables during hard times will be greatly desirable. In order to do this, a preparedness person should have multiple duplicates of commonly used garden tools. Gardening tools such as rakes, hoes, and pitchforks often break at the connection between the handle and the head. The wood becomes aged and with downward pressure/force – the wood can break away and or the tool head can just become loose and fall out. This occurs mostly on older tools where the wood has shrank but can also occur on the cheaper imported garden tools. I recently had to repair two of my older tools (heavy rake and hoe) which both broke when planting this year’s garden.

If replacement handles are not available, most of the tools can be repaired to useable condition by the following method:

1) Clean the metal tool head area that goes into the wood with a wire brush and coarse sandpaper.
2) Clean out the wood handle “socket area” using a small foxtail file or cylindrical wire brush or sandpaper on stick, etc. Try not to remove any wood – just clean the wood surface.
3) Mix up a batch of thick epoxy or JB Weld, etc. and use some kind of tape (masking tape works well) to bridge up the area where the wood has been chipped out or broken off).
4) Fill the handle “socket” with epoxy, and insert the tool head. Don’t forget to install the tool head cone before installing the tool head. Adding some additional epoxy to the tapered portion of the handle and the inside of the cone will further strengthen the connection between the handle and the tool head.
5) Wrap additional tape around the bottom of this cone to keep epoxy from leaking out, and then store the tool with the head up until the epoxy has hardened for at least 24 hours.

If the handle has become cracked or broken, the wood can be wrapped with copper or iron wire over the entire length of the crack/break, then twist the wire using pliers to get and maintain a tight wrap. Epoxy or tape over it (epoxy is best). This will add great strength to the wood in that area. Also, the handles can become splintered and or the varnish can crack and be hard on the hands. To resolve this – sand and re-varnish or oil stain, or wrap a rubberized tape around the handle in the working areas to provide a splinter free grip.

A little oil will help in keeping rust from forming during storage (as noted in previous SurvivalBlog posts). It is a good idea to keep all your tools and equipment in ready condition. You never know when you will need them.

Letter Re: Advice on a Budget Rifle Battery for Retreat Security

Jim,
For those folks residing in the Western U.S., the Big 5 Sporting Goods stores are selling ‘collectable’ Mosin-Nagant 7.62x54R rifles at very good prices; under $200. I don’t know if all the stores have them but a couple of stores in the south Denver metro area have one or two each and they appear to be in acceptable shape. – Ken M.

JWR Replies: Thanks for that tip. OBTW, most Big 5 customers don’t realize that the military surplus rifles in the display racks are just examples of their inventory. Each store typically has from three to five more of each model still in boxes, back in their stock room. If you “chat up” the sales clerks, you can usually get them to either let you look through the back room inventory, or have them bring out three or four more rifle boxes, so that you can hand pick rifles. Look for rifles with no cracks in their stocks, nice bores, and that still have most of their bluing. Parenthetically, I have a friend who was successful at this a couple of years ago at the Big 5 store in Carson City, Nevada. This was back when Swiss 7.5mm K31 carbines were coming in to the country in large numbers. He came home with a nearly mint condition K31 at the same $185 price as the “run of the mill” well-worn carbines.

Six Letters Re: Proper Lubrication with Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel?

Jim
A couple of points on ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD). Back in the 1990s low sulfur was introduced and we had a rash of pumps “wear out” prematurely for the most part these were older and or rotary pumps that were poor performers to begin with. It has been my experience that the “Bosch in inline” pumps tend to be more forgiving.
If on road legality is of no concern than a gallon or two of marvel mystery oil will cover your lubricity issue.
When I was in the coast guard we had a mixing formula to mix 40 weight oil to JP-4 through JP-8 so we could use it in our main diesel engines. This would have the advantage of not “dying” the fuel If you have a 500 gallon tank 5 gallons of lube oil should take care of your issue.
As to clogging filters it is the exhaust particulate filters in 2007 model year and later that is the issue. If you need a “good” vehicle, 2007 and later is a poor choice as maintenance and parts are very expensive and specialized. – Mike the Wrenchspinner

Hello Jim,
I have been a fuel distributor since 1972. I have seen many changes in the industry since then and IMHO the ULSD fuel is one of the goofier ones. The fuel is treated to get rid of the nasty sulfur. Along with this goes some of the wax, thus less power. BTU losses of 3-7% are common. The ULSD fuel is harder to winterize then the old 500 PPM fuel we have been using. CFPP (Cold Filter Plug Point) of the ULSD fuel starts out 20 to 30 degrees higher than the old fuel and requires more of the winter additive to bring the the CFPP down to acceptable numbers. Once again our government supplies us with unintended consequences.
We purchase our additive from Schaffer’s. They have an additive for the ULSDF called Diesel Treat 2000 ULSDF that other than the power loss, virtually returns the 15 PPM to the 500 PPM specs. We purchase the additive in bulk and cost to treat is less than 2 cents per gallon. As the off road diesel is now at 500 PPM and may be as low as 15 PPM we currently treat all of our diesel sales.
Water fall out is also a problem with the ULSD fuel. All diesel contains minor amounts of water, called inherent water. In the older fuels this water would stay in suspension and would be vaporized during the ignition cycle and then would exhaust with the other gases. With ULSD the water over time will precipitate out either in your storage tank or vehicle tank. When you have water in your tank you are now ready to host many types of microbial life. Of course these bugs die and their bodies will clog up your fuel filters. (Looks like the filter was packed with black grease.) The Schaeffer’s additive will keep the inherent water in suspension so as to eliminate or at least greatly reduce the food source for the microbes.
In regards to the expensive filter in the exhaust system getting clogged, that occurs when 500 PPM diesel is used in engines requiring the ULSD, engines manufactured in 2007 or later.
All diesel fuels both on road and off road are to be 15 PPM by 2010.
Any other questions please let me know – John & Abigail Adams

 

Mr. Rawles,
A common misconception is that ultra low sulfur diesel does not have the lubricating properties of low sulfur diesel when in fact it does. Sulfur is not the lubricant in diesel fuel. Although the process of removing sulfur removes some of the natural lubricating properties of the fuel the refiners add a lubricant package back to the fuel before it is sold to the public. Under no circumstances should you ever use a fuel additive containing alcohol in a diesel engine. The alcohol will absorb the water in the fuel and the water will then pass through the injectors at that point the water will explode and destroy the injector tips. The best thing a fuel additive can do with water in a diesel is remove it from solution by causing it to settle out so the filter system can catch it and it can be drained. The best fuel additives for diesel engines bar none are Stanadyne and Power Service. Power Service is available at most auto parts stores and Wal-Mart, while Stanadyne is available from diesel injector shops. – Jack S.

Sir:
We have used Marvel Mystery Oil for years as an additive to our diesel trucks and tractors. If you read the side of the can, it says add directly to diesel fuel as a top cylinder lubricant. It also ups the Cetane Rating, as well as keeps the fuel for gelling in cold weather. My brother in Alaska swears by it, and I am sure others besides myself are familiar with it.
The ULSD is [presently required only] for over the road trucks. You still can special order in non-road diesel for tractors and off road vehicles. (No road taxes )
One under-reported fact: Biodiesel is an excellent lubricant and just adding a little Biodiesel to each tank helps with the lubrication.- Mel

Mr. Rawles,
This is the product that I use to remedy the low-sulfur diesel fuel issue. I own a 2002 Volkswagen Beetle with the tdi,1.9 alh engine (it’s a diesel). This is the only product that VW of America recommends as an additive that will not void the factory warranty. Just thought I’d pass the info along. – JB in Boise

 

Sir:
I make a living testing fuel quality for an oil company and wanted to comment on the post on Monday, July 16th, “Letter Re: Proper Lubrication with Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel.” It is widely accepted that sulfur compounds increase the lubrication effect, or lubricity, of diesel fuel. With the recent reduction of sulfur from 500 ppm in low sulfur diesel to 15 ppm in ultra low sulfur diesel there has been a decrease in the lubricity of the fuel. But a lubricity specification was implemented simultaneously with the reduction in sulfur. Refiners have been required to increase the lubricity of diesel to meet a minimum lubricity specification while reducing sulfur. They have met the lubricity requirement using chemical additives.

There are several chemical additives available, at least commercially, to improve lubricity quality, but by the time a typical consumer purchases diesel from a retail station, the fuel has likely already been additized to improve lubricity.

I’m not sure if the chemically additized ultra low sulfur diesel that meets the minimum lubricity requirement lubricates an engine as well as the higher sulfur diesel, but the difference is probably not significant and the additized fuel probably lubricates sufficiently. In any case, it would not be detrimental to additize your diesel, but the money is likely better spent on other preparations. – Mike S.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader “Ed7B” sent us a link to a page at the Medical Corps web site with an account of an emergency appendectomy in a submarine in WWII – with not a doctor for many miles, and a dearth of proper equipment, tools and drugs. Ed’s comment: “They still managed to get this sailor’s appendix out and have a happy outcome. Pertinent to what people can expect when there is no hospital open, let alone a doctor to be found.” Speaking of preparedness for austere medicine, don’t miss the outstanding Medical Corps training on August 24-25-26 at the Ohio State University Extension Campus in Caldwell, Ohio.

  o o o

Frequent content contributor SF in Hawaii sent us the URL for Frontier Natural Products Co-Op, a mail order firm that has a lot of organic spices and mixes in foil packages. SF’s comment: “Spices and precious metals used to trade on par in ancient times.”

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Retail Sales Suffer Stiff Decline

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"This is a delusion about credit. And whereas from the nature of credit it is to be expected that a certain line will divide the view between creditor and debtor, the irrational fact in this case is that for more than 10 years debtors and creditors together have pursued the same deceptions." – Garet Garret, A Bubble that Broke the World

Notes from JWR:

Congratulations to Tom H., the high bidder in the recent SurvivalBlog benefit auction for 10 steel SA-80 magazines. A new auction begins today, for a new-in-the-box “Big Berky” British Berkefeld water filter, kindly donated by Ready Made Resources, one of our most loyal advertisers. This is a high volume ceramic filter with four replaceable 9″ ceramic filter elements in a sturdy polished stainless steel enclosure. We use this same model here at the Rawles Ranch. Big Berkey filters normally sell for $324, plus postage. The opening bid is just $80. (The winning bid includes free shipping in the US.) Please e-mail us your bid, in $10 increments. Be sure to visit the Ready Made Resources web site and check out their broad line of photovoltaic power components and their wide variety of food storage and preparedness products. They have it all, at great prices!

Today we present another article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 ends on July 31st. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

Water Considerations for WTSHTF, by Terry M.

When prepping for WTSHTF, many times we focus on how much dehydrated food we have stored. While dehydrated foods can have a very important part in our plans, we have to remember
that almost all that food needs water. Water you may not have accounted for in your plans. The following quantity figures were taken straight from the Walton Feed web site, a very popular source of dehydrated foods.
Feeding a family of four
Breakfast:
Pancakes = 2.5 cups water
Milk = 1 quart water
margarine = 4 Tbsp water
egg mix = 3 Tbsp water per egg (4 times)
Lunch:
Bread = varies
peanut butter powder = Tbsp water per Tbsp of peanut butter
jelly = none
orange drink = 1 quart water
Dinner:
Macaroni = at least 1 quart to boil
cheese blend = 1 cup
1 cup green beans = 1 cup water
fruit punch = 1 quart water
Dessert:
Brownie mix = 3/4 cup water
No meats today.
this works out to about 1.5 gallons for one day.
Another quart of water each for drinking makes 2.5 gallons.
Another gallon minimum for cleaning makes 3.5 gallons.
Another gallon minimum for personal hygiene = 4.5 gallons.
We can see it would easily reach 5 gallons of water per day, minimum. This is pretty austere living as far as hygiene and cleaning goes. Even the amount of food is less than what most of us have become used to.
If you had to rely only on the 50 gallons in your hot water heater, you would have less than a 10 day supply. Remember, this is probably going to be the minimum you use per day! Many dehydrated foods will require more water than indicated here. If you have infants or toddlers, you can easily exceed the minimum of one gallon per day for hygiene. (Do you have someplace to clean those dirty diapers?) Ever try to tell your teenage daughter she can’t wash her hair for a week?
Granted some of the above water could be reused. The water used to boil the macaroni could be used to clean up possibly or make fruit punch (hopefully it is strong flavored to mask
the taste.)
Regardless, there probably will be times during SHTF that water is at a premium. We have to be ready to eat with little or no additional water. We need to take a hard look at canned foods where they may allow us to use less water or have their own water included. Most canned vegetables, juices and meats fall into this category. I am not advocating eliminating them entirely from our dehydrated stores, but I am suggesting we cross-fill. Where possible, get both dehydrated and non-dehydrated.
If storage space is an issue, perhaps something like a wall mounted dispensing system from www.pharaohsstorehouse.com is the answer for you. This also allows for automatic rotation
of stores.
Other factors to include are that if you have neighbors family or friends you end up helping, they are going to need water for any dehydrated foods you give them. Do they have anything stored up? Have they already used up all the water in their hot water heater? If you give someone a cup of dehydrated peanut butter in a baggie, then they will immediately know that you have more. If you give them a small typical grocery store packaged bottle of peanut butter, then they just might think its your next to last one. Better to seem just barely better-off than to appear well-off.
This entire discussion can go for pages, and that is not my intent here. My purpose is to get you thinking outside the box. When you think about SHTF, try to think about all of the things that you will need and how they are connected.

Letter Re: Proper Lubrication with Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel?

Jim,
I’m wonder if there is someone in the SurvivalBlog readership who has any first hand knowledge about the repercussions of the ultra-low-sulfur diesel (ULSD) fuel that is being mandated by our government. I’ve heard that the sulfur content is being reduced from 500ppm down to 15ppm and that the sulfur in the fuel has a lubricating effect on diesel engines, fuel pumps, injectors, etc. The assertion is that this lowered level will significantly increase wear on older non-ultra-low-sulfur fuel designed diesel engines. I understand that many regions of the country can only get this fuel now and that many farmers, construction companies, etc. have to resort to an additive to insure proper fuel lubrication. Anyone know of an additive that will accomplish this? Also, there is an assertion that because of this fuel there is a difference in produced ash particle dimensions which clogs expensive filters. Any truth here? And finally, there is an assertions that the current oils used in diesel engines, using this reduced sulfur fuel, may not be adequate. Again, any truth? If so what is the proper oil?
I figured that if I heard this, then maybe so have others and they are also confused on this subject. Thank You, – Ken M

JWR Replies: An oil additive will indeed increase ULSD’s viscosity. I’ve seen references to a commercial additive product called Diesel 911. The manufacturer’s web site describes it as having the following benefits:
* Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel compliant. Contains less than 15 parts per million (ppm) sulfur
* De-ices frozen fuel-filters no requirement to change fuel-filters
* Contains Slickdiesel for maximum fuel lubrication protects fuel injectors and pumps against accelerated wear from Low and Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) fuels
* Reliquefies gelled fuel in minutes
* Removes water from fuel system

I suspect that since it is claimed to “remove water” that in addition to oil, this product also contains some alcohol. If you only goal is to increase lubrication, then a bit of less expensive oil–perhaps plain old 10W-40–might do the trick. (Although it might violate some Federal regulation.) Diesel 911 sounds like it has some other worthy attributes that might make it worth buying. A competing product is AMSOIL’s Diesel Concentrate Performance Fuel Additive (ADF). Those are just the two that I’ve heard of. There are sure to be others. Perhaps some SurvivalBlog readers would care to chime in, and suggest a satisfactory and legal low cost (per gallon) ULSD viscosity boosting solution.

Odds ‘n Sods:

SF in Hawaii mentioned this copy of the US Army Field Manual FM 90-7, housed at the GlobalSecurity.org web site. SF’s comment: “Click on the figures in this manual and you’ll see some good examples of defensive obstacles.”

  o o o

A Colorado city besieged by copper thieves

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I noticed an interesting thread of discussion in progress at The Claire Files forums, on choosing a gun for bear protection, while horseback.

Notes from JWR:

The high bid is now at $350 in the SurvivalBlog benefit auction for a batch of 10 brand new original Imperial Defence SA-80 (AR-15) steel 30 round rifle magazines. The auction ends at midnight (EST) tonight, so e-mail us your bid soon!

Today we present another article for Round 11 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best non-fiction article will win a valuable four day “gray” transferable Front Sight course certificate. (Worth up to $2,000!) Second prize is a copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, generously donated by Jake Stafford of Arbogast Publishing. I will again be sending out a few complimentary copies of my novel “Patriots” as “honorable mention” awards. Round 11 ends on July 31st. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival will have an advantage in the judging.

You Can Catch More Flies With Honey Than Vinegar, by Adam in Ohio

I started my preparedness journey a few years before Y2K. A friend of mine opened my eyes and both of our families have been adding to our preparations ever since. Unfortunately, looking back over the last 10 year, I have not been able to convince one more person to become better prepared. I am obviously not happy with the results so I have decided this year I will try something different.

I think where I went wrong is being too open about my preparedness journey. I would become very excited about some new aspect of preparedness that I had discovered and would immediately share it with my family and friends. They would respond with polite smiles and pretend to be interested. They would love to talk about the unique books I bought or all the guns I have. But it would always be a big joke. I will never live down all the jokes that started when they found out I bought The Humanure Handbook. The jokes start up every spring when I start my garden. And no, I don’t recycle my own waste. I just wanted the book.

I have learned that some people will never be open to the survivalist mindset. And I have made the mistake too many times in giving the whole load to people who are not ready. Emotionally many people can not handle it. Many times I can see the fear that begins to rise up in them. But instead of moving to the logical next step of “what do I need to do to solve this problem”, they choose to avoid this stressful train of thought because it is easier to believe I’m just crazy. I now realize that my method of trying to convince others to prepare has inadvertently opened my family to danger. Guess who’s house they joke about going to if TSHTF! What was I thinking?

This year I have a new plan. I am now going to downplay the survivalist stigma and promote what I do as a wise financial investment instead. I work in the banking industry and with it comes relationships with many business professionals. They understand money. I am building a new house and it is drawing some attention mainly because the same family and friends that loved to tell everyone about my unique books love to tell others about my unique house that is being built. I am investing quite a bit of money in solar air and water heaters and [photovoltaic] solar panels. But instead of promoting it as a good way to prepare, I have a break down on how renewable energy will save me money. The solar installers have a computer program that breaks down all the monetary figures and it’s great for showing to others that are interested. My line now is that I just want to diversify my long term investments. My friends understand numbers and spread sheets so this makes sense to them. I don’t rave about Peak Oil anymore I just explain that I believe oil prices are going to increase substantially and the more they increase the better the return on my renewable energy investment.

I am building a homestead on 40 acres of mixed pastures and woods. Next year I am hoping to move beyond just owning horses and add cattle, goats and chickens. I don’t have much experience with livestock except what I have read in books. So I am planning to take a couple of classes this fall at the Ohio State Agricultural Technical Institute. It’s amazing all the great classes they offer. The reason I give people for my desire for owning livestock–I am a city banker after all– is all the organic food my family currently buys. It is really expensive. Goat milk is almost $4 per quart here! So growing my own food is a great way to save money. It’s also a fun hobby and good exercise. Along with canning or freezing the produce from our large organic garden, we can save a lot. I don’t banter any more on the need to stock up. I would rather them see the joy of having a full pantry of healthy foods and how I save money doing it.

Now that I am finally going to live in the country and not just visit my land on weekends I am going to get two 550 gallon fuel tanks; one diesel and one gasoline. Since I’m not a real farmer like others in the area this could look weird, but again this can make financial sense if explained correctly. With the high fluctuation of gas prices I fill up the storage tanks when the price is low and use it up when the price at the pump is high. I’ll throw out how many hundreds of dollars I save by doing this.

The older I get the more I realize I need to package things a little different. The old saying comes to mind that “you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar”. Maybe the honey will work better than the vinegar I have used over the years and I can finally take a few interested friends to the next level. If nothing else when TSHTF I think it would be better to be known as a penny pincher than that crazy survivalist. – Adam in Ohio

JWR Adds: To both prevent thievery in hard times and to decrease fire danger, I recommend that SurvivalBlog readers opt for underground fuel storage tanks. You might consider hiring contractors from 50+ miles away, rather than locals. Ditto for when you have the tanks filled the first time, especially if the tanks are unusually large. If you are clever, it isn’t very difficult to conceal the tank filler and pump handle “heads”. I have one friend that concealed his by torching out the back of an old upright chest freezer. The freezer laying on its back next to his barn (along with some other scrap metal items) just looks like “junk.” Since the freezer door’s key lock mechanism still works, it prevents curious kids from looking inside. (And it also eliminates the risk of an “attractive nuisance” lawsuit.) Another friend bought some wooden wine barrels that had been cut in half for use as decorative planters. An inverted half-barrel covers the tank’s pump handle and hose. Another half barrel sits on top of the “base” barrel. This upper barrel has had a false bottom partition built into it, making it look like it is full of soil, when the soil is actually only 6″ deep. This barrel is planted with wildflowers each summer. To access the pump handle and hose, it takes just a few moments to set aside the 30 pound top barrel and flip over the base.

Letter Re: The Formulary Book Mentioned in the Novel “Patriots”

Mr. Rawles:
First, I’d like to thank you for your novel “Patriots”. I bought it and read [the 31 chapter edition] in 2002, and loved it. I implemented many of your suggestions, and have my bug out bags prepared and ready. I especially have medical supplies on hand.

I have been trying to remember the name and author of a “formulary” book I believe you mention in Patriots. You said it was out of print but showed how to make things like paint, if you had no paint. You said it was a fixture on American farms at the turn of the 20th century. I would look in my copy of Patriots for this, but it is packed with my bug out items in a special safe place away from my home, so I can’t just quickly go get it. Please let me know the title of this “formulary” so that I can be looking for a copy. Thanks! – Pamela G. in Oregon

JWR Replies: I believe that you are referring to Kurt Saxon’s book: “Granddad’s Wonderful Book of Chemistry”, which is primarily a reprint of he classic formulary “Dick’s Encyclopedia“, circa 1872. Saxon also assembled a dictionary of old fashioned chemical terms and synonyms and included it in the front of his reprint. This is worth its weight in gold. (Having an old formulary is great, but if you don’t know that “oil of mirbane” is now called nitro-benzene, then a lot of formulary knowledge verges on useless.) Kurt has some far-our political beliefs which, as a Christian, I find abhorrent. (Kurt Saxon is an atheist and a eugenicist.) But if you skip past those rantings, all of his books are great references. I’ve heard that a few of his hard copy books are now out of print, but that they are all still available on CD-ROM.

OBTW, if you search through used book stores, you will occasionally find other old formulary book from the late 1800s. Buy them when you find them. They are treasure troves of useful arcana!

Some special notes of caution on home chemistry: Use extreme care whenever working with chemicals–even when doing something as basic as making soap. Always wear full goggles, long sleeves, and gloves. Always work in a well-ventilated area. Wear a respirator mask, when appropriate. Always keep an A-B-C fire extinguisher handy. Keep an emergency eyewash bottle handy. When working with a chemical that could burn your skin, be prepared with a bucket of water (if appropriate) or the appropriate neutralizer. Never use any of your regular kitchen utensils, containers, or measuring instruments when working with chemicals. (Have a dedicated set, and clearly mark them as such!) Never work alone. Study reactivity tables, and always keep them in mind. Whenever working with anything flammable or potentially explosive, always work with minute quantities for your experiments. Keep in mind that 19th Century safety standards were considerably more relaxed than today’s, so old formularies often omit safety warnings. Always remember that exposure to some substances such as lead, mercury, and carbon monoxide are insidious and cumulative. FWIW, I’m not putting forth all these strong warnings simply to cover my assets from a lawsuit. I really sincerely mean them, since I’ve “been there, done that”, and caught my hair on fire a time or two.