Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Assembling Web Gear

I love the questions on web gear. Best advice I can give, having gone through multiple iterations of trying this and that, is to divide up your load. What do I mean by this?

In the military they have a “combat load” and an “approach load” concept. Your “combat load” is the web gear that you see troops with all the time – their “battle rattle.” On the other hand the “approach load” is similar to what we would refer to as a survival load (roughly).

The major problem with web gear is that it does not work with any backpack that has a waist belt unless you set it up to not carry anything on the pistol belt unless it is carried with a drop leg (thigh) type of setup. Oops, no ammo pouches or canteens on the pistol belt. That means that forget the cheap ALICE gear etc. unless you plan on walking only for a day and not even spending the night in bad weather. You have to go with a vest type setup right out of the gate if you want to use a large backpack.

Personally, I have used an Enhanced Load Bearing Vest (ELBV) and H-harness that can carry eight M16 magazines in chest mounted pouches, or a no-name (custom made) survival vest that carries magazine pouches on the belly with some success. I prefer the ELBV as it can take all the cheap ALICE gear in a pinch. It also does not dig into me when I go prone like the other vest (which I only use when I am out hunting any more as it makes the perfect day pack with minimal survival gear – which is what it was designed for). I then have my pistol in a drop leg holster so that it rides below both the pistol belt and the backpack waist belt. On the other side I have a knife in a drop sheath and pistol magazine pouches in a drop leg configuration (holster and magazine pouches from Black hawk).

Water is in a hydration bladder inside the backpack as well as two one quart canteens (you can’t beat the old canteen cup and canteen cup stove with any modern gear) and two two quart canteens in or on the backpack. I would recommend people look at the Kifaru line of backpacks – they are rock solid (mine has survived three trips to the Middle East and one swing through Afghanistan) and built by the guy that started Mountain Smith. They are pricey but they don’t fail in the field and wear like a dream.

I also carry on the outside of the backpack a Camelbak hydration pack with 100 ounces of water. It has just enough carrying capacity to make up for the butt pack that I used to carry on my pistol belt (poncho, some food, and SERE gear). In a fight I can ditch the backpack in under a minute, get the Camelbak on, get one of the two one quart canteens clipped on, and shove the Russian Spetsnaz shovel into the loops on the Camelbak (designed to carry ice axes) after I take it off of the larger backpack. So, while not perfect it is the best thing I have found to date.

A couple of tips no matter what brand/setup you go with. First, go prone and roll around on the ground. Your magazine pouches should not dig (try to land on one if it digs into your diaphragm …) and at least some of them should be accessible regardless of the position you are in. Second, you should be able to roll over and over and low crawl with the rig. I saw one kid with a ton of gear not be able to get low enough behind a street curb one time and he ended up a casualty. [JWR Adds: One reason that I prefer traditional pistol belts and suspenders is that by simply unbuckling the pistol belt latch, any pouches in the front can be pushed to the sides (putting all the weight on the suspenders), allowing the wearer to low crawl effectively.] Remember that hard objects in your backpack become shrapnel when hit by bullets. Third, when you jump up and down you should not make any noise.

When you are done with your web gear buying and backpack buying and you start to load up, keep this in mind. On your web gear you only want those things that you will need in a fight.

The Colonel that was portrayed in the movie “Blackhawk Down” now has an infantry battalion in Iraq. Because of his experience with the [Mogadishu] “Blackhawk Down” affair he now never leaves his compound without having at least 30 loaded magazines on him. Plus he carries a combat lifesaver kit. This outfit has the best ones on the market today. – Hugh D.

Odds ‘n Sods:

In the wake of the real estate collapse comes inevitably: Squatters: The latest real-estate menace. (A hat tip to Hoffmama.)

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Several readers sent this: As if Things Weren’t Bad Enough, Russian Professor Predicts End of U.S. (Of course, consider the reliability of the source.)

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David D. mentioned that Farm Show magazine has lots of articles with energy saving ideas, including: “Wood Gas Generator Produces “Free” Power”, a Coal-Fired Grain Dryer, Biodiesel Generator Powers Up On Veggie Oil (or Almost Any Oil) , and Manure Furnace Burns All Kinds of Waste.

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Florida Guy mentioned another Nanny State scheme: Oregon attempts mandatory GPS car tracking of all new autos

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The latest Glut-‘o-Gloom from Cheryl: Kerkorian Sells Off Remaining Ford Shares — Oil Surges on Concerns Mideast Violence will Disrupt Supplies — Fallout Begins After Dismal Holiday Season — Ruble in Trouble — 10 Things that Won’t Survive the Recession — Crisis Batters American Small Businesses — In a Recession, Execs Make a Quick Getaway — Stocks Pull Back Amid Mid-East Tensions — Dollar Rocked by Mid-East Violence — Wall Street Faces Record Losses in Last Week of 2008 — Shoppers Even More Finicky

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"When bad men combine, the good must associate; else they will fall one by one, an unpitied sacrifice in a contemptible struggle." – Edmund Burke, 1770

Notes from JWR:

Just three days left! More than 625 SurvivalBlog readers have bought Foodsaver vacuum packers at the special December sale price. I consider a home vacuum packer & sealer a key item to own for family preparedness. These greatly increase the storage life of foods. They also allow you to inexpensively buy foods in bulk and then pack them in single meal sizes. This capability alone will make the Foodsaver pay for itself in less than a year. And if you get the optional regular mouth Mason jar vacuum sealer attachment for an extra $8.99 your Foodsaver will be even more versatile. (They all come with a wide mouth Mason Jar attachment as a standard accessory.) We get a little “piece of the action” for each Foodsaver that is sold using our link. So this a is a great way to save money and to support SurvivalBlog! Don’t miss out on this sale! You can buy a FoodSaver v2830 for $59.99 (originally $169.99) with free Standard Shipping for orders over $100, directly FoodSaver.com. Be sure to use code L8FAV28 at checkout. This offer is valid during the month of December, or while supplies last. We’ve had one here at the Rawles Ranch for many years and it gets a lot of use. Buy a FoodSaver. You’ll be glad that you did!

Today’s first post was inspired by the recent drop in both crude oil and refined oil prices, following their huge bull market for the past three+ years. (Short term deflation is now upon us, but I predict that inflation will be back in the long run, with a vengeance!) It is a piece from the SurvivalBlog Archives, circa October, 2005. In retrospect, I can see that I was right about my predictions on fuel and grain prices.

Note that there are now nearly 5,800 archived SurvivalBlog articles, letters, and quotes, all available free of charge!

From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Inflation–Past, Present, and Future

It has been said that nothing is inevitable except death and taxes. But personally, I add inflation to that list. Inflation is an insidious hidden form of taxation

We’ve been robbed! According to The Inflation Calculator, what cost $100 in 1905 would cost $2052.36 in 2005. The U.S. dollar has lost 95% of its value in that time. (If you were to buy exactly the same products in 2005 and 1905, they would cost you $100 and $4.87 respectively.) The inflation rate jumped considerably in the 1960s and 1970s. It is no coincidence that the U.S. Treasury stopped minting real silver coins in 1964.

Even it this current era of supposedly”low” inflation, the depredations of inflation are inexorable– but just slower. It is like watching a 50 pound ice block sitting in the sun. The real rate of inflation is presently about 6.5%. Thus, you need to make at least 6.5% a year on your money just to keep pace with inflation. In the long term the concept of “saving” for retirement is almost fallacious, especially when you consider the bouts of inflation that are likely to occur in the next 20 years. The twin deficits–budget and trade–will inevitably lead to much higher rates of inflation in the years to come. Perhaps we’ll even experience a full-blown hyperinflationary currency crisis that will wipe out the value of all of our dollar-denominated investments in just a few months. I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again: If you want to protect yourself from inflation, then buy tangibles. My late father used to be fond of saying: “There are three kinds of people in the world: People who make things happen, people who watch things happen, and [the majority of people,] the people who wonder, ‘What the heck happened?'” Inflation is a process that is so subtle that the majority of people do not recognize it for what it is.

It is safe to assume that inflation will continue, and will only get worse, especially with commodities. Oil will likely double in the next 18 months. So that means corresponding increases in gas, diesel, and home heating oil. Wheat, rice, and other commodities will also jump up in price. They too, may double soon. Protect yourself from inflation. Stock up on tangibles. Not only is it wise to be prepared physically, but you can also consider these tangibles a prudent investment.

Two Letters Re: Jerry Cans Killed Nationwide by California Political Correctness

Mr. Rawles,
I just wanted to get the word out to all that have not heard yet, all non-CARB (California Air Resources Board)-approved fuel cans will be no longer be sold nationwide [in the US] after January 1, 2009. That means you will not be able to buy any more of the ever-so-useful NATO gas cans to store fuel in and I assume any other fuel can that does not meet this new regulation. I know this is a little late to post this, I just found out myself a few days ago. I talked to Maine Military Surplus this morning and they still have a few left and are expecting a new shipment soon although they had to pay more for the latest ones. With shipping these were just over $26 apiece. Anyone who thought this was a free country needs to think again.

Thanks so much for all you do, Mr. Rawles. I hope you and yours had a very Merry Christmas. – S. in Oklahoma

 

Sir:
I read the recent post on CARB compliant gas cans that are going to be mandatory for the US in January. Here in Pennsylvania we’ve had them in place for a while now. It might be good to let your readers know what they’re in for.

My first words of advice to anyone in a non-CARB compliant state — go buy any “old style” gas cans that you can find now if you need them. The new CARB compliant cans are a real pain in the rump to use. The CARB compliant cans are the most over-engineered product I’ve ever seen. They’re airtight, child-proof, and typically require 3 hands to get gas out of them. The first models used a spout that hooked onto the lip of a gas tank and needed to be pressed in to actually let gas out. Newer models use a lever-style handle that’s easier to deal with, but there’s a child-proof tab that needs to be pulled back before the lever can be pressed. Fortunately that child proof tab can be removed out in about five seconds to make the cans much more user-friendly. The CARB compliant cans are ventless; there’s no more little vent opening and the venting is actually done through the spout. This prevents evaporation that occurs when the vent spout is open, but it means that air has to come in while gas flows out and that makes emptying a can much slower. It also means that older spouts won’t work well with new CARB compliant cans because they aren’t designed for venting through the spout. Emptying a 5 gallon CARB compliant gas can through its supplied venting spout takes about 5-to-6 minutes — but it seems a lot longer when you’re holding the heavy can with one hand and pressing the pour lever with the other.

Fortunately, I’ve found a solution to the whole CARB compliance debacle — the tried and true siphon hose. I recently bought a “Super Siphon” from Boat Show Products — what a great product! Unlike the CARB compliant spouts, the Super Siphon can empty a fives gallon can in two minutes or less. I was looking for the fastest and easiest way to fill up my cars from gas cans. The super siphon fits the bill. It uses a ball-check valve to let liquid in but not back out, so there’s no manual sucking gas through the hose required. You just shake the check-valve end of the siphon hose up and down into the gas can until the gas fills the hose and starts the flow then physics takes over and the gas moves. I position the gas can I’m filling from on a step ladder to keep it higher than the car’s gas tank opening. No mess, no heavy cans to hold and the fuel gets transferred quickly. Plus, I don’t need to stand there holding the can while it fills – my hands are free and I can pay attention to something other than the gas can (Like getting the next can ready to go).

I have no business connection with the Super Siphon or the vendor, I’m just a happy customer. I just wanted to pass the info along to anyone who stores gas for a bug-out situation. There are other similar siphons on the market and it might even be possible to build your own if you can find the check-valve piece somewhere. I highly recommend that everyone who intends to fill their car with a gas can at some point actually try it. Most CARB compliant cans don’t have nozzles long enough to fill a car, and even if they did it’s a challenging if not impossible procedure.to hold the can, fumble with the child safety lock and the gas release lever all while trying to keep the gas flowing into the 3/4 inch opening of the gas tank. Siphoning is definitely the way to go.
Thanks for you blog; I’ve enjoyed reading it. – Doug in Pennsylvania

JWR Replies: Thanks for your letter. An even faster method than a siphon pump is a homemade 12 VDC fuel transfer pump. Every prepared family should have one or two of these.

Letter Re: The Best College Degrees for the Next Depression?

James,
longer this [economic death spiral] goes on, the more it looks like this is going to be at least a decade before normality returns. So, if you’ve got a teenage kid you’re probably thinking, what kind of career (assuming we don’t totally melt down at a societal level) path he or she should take…

I was talking to someone the other day and he told me his kid was studying art. “Oh, I asked, is he any good?” He replied “No, not really.” This family man is spending good money, money that could be put into preparations into a liberal arts education? Idiot.

Even if his son were Michelangelo reincarnated, who is going to pay for artwork in a depression. It’s not like he is going to get a stipend from the Medici family and work on family portraits of the rich and famous.

I’d like to ask the collective survival mind as represented by SurvivalBlog readers, what careers do you think are worth paying money to learn how to do for the next generation? – SF in Hawaii

JWR Replies: Off the top of my head, I think that any of the medical professions would be good choices, especially those related to geriatrics, since we live in an aging society The only notable exception would be cosmetic surgery.

BTW, the Memsahib’s parents grew up during the Great Depression and consequently they told the Memsahib and her sister that they would be willing to pay for their college education only if they wanted to be “teachers, nurses, or dental assistants”–because there would always be some demand for them. No fru-fru art degrees for their daughters!

Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Assembling Web Gear

Mister Rawles:
Just a quick note on ALICE and MOLLE gear. I love both my girls and sometimes have a hard time choosing, but when using ALICE pouches on a MOLLE system, it’s better to use the adapters (available inexpensively on EBay) or the ALICE clips will wear out the MOLLE [attachment] strips very quickly. – DRZ

Odds ‘n Sods:

Kurt reminded me that the US Army’s Survival Manual (available for free download in PDF) has and appendix on Edible and Medicinal Plants. It includes a lot of color photos, which makes it a lot easier to identify plants.

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Some good news, especially for those of us that plan to stock up on winter-formulated gas: South Carolina gasoline hits 91 cents per gallon

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Robert S. in Las Vegas e-mailed to alert us: “While out shopping for post-Christmas deals yesterday we ran into a great deal on 20# propane cylinders (the standard BBQ size). We have a multi-fuel generator as well as several backup heating and cooking systems that use propane and maybe some of the SurvivalBlog readers do as well. Some of the stores called The Great Indoors are closing and going out of business. I found several palettes of new unfilled 20# propane cylinders on sale for 25% off marked down to $22 each which is a very good price.”

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Thanks to Rich at KT Ordnance in Montana for sending this link that illustrates the depth of the state budget crises: Fire Sale: Minnesota, New York, Massachusetts and Illinois are thinking of selling Toll Roads

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Doc Gary flagged this one: Hybrid auto as an emergency generator.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“It was the Wild West. If you were alive, they would give you a loan. Actually, I think if you were dead, they would still give you a loan.” – Steven M. Knobel, a founder of the appraisal company Mitchell, Maxwell & Jackson, that did business with Washington Mutual (WaMu) until 2007, as quoted by The New York Times

Note from JWR:

If you find what you read in SurvivalBlog useful and that is has saved you from making some costly mistakes, I hope that you will consider joining the 2% of readers that have become voluntary Ten Cent Challenges subscribers. Many Thanks!

Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Selecting and Assembling Web Gear

Mr. Rawles,
Thank you very much for your web site. I have been reading it every day for the last two months. It is a wealth of knowledge. Read your book as well. I have been researching food, water et cetera for quite a while and your site has helped a great deal. My family will be quite prepared for whatever in short order. The one thing that ha me confused is web gear/tac vest/ALICE gear. In your book you refer to a certain type of web gear but I am having trouble putting all of the pieces together. I am ex-Coast Guard and not at all familiar with land gear. What web gear goes with what pack and belt, et cetera? Can you help me with a list of compatible gear or recommend a book or manual? Thanks, – Kurt in Washington

JWR Replies: There are umpteen opinions out there on web gear, so take the following as just one man’s view. Although they are currently all the rage, I am not a fan of load bearing vests. I still primarily use the old tried-and-true ALICE gear, although I have upgraded from the traditional “Y” suspender harness to the more heavily-padded Eagle Industries Ranger “H”-harness.

The new modular MOLLE (spoken “Molly”) vests are more versatile than the older-generation Woodland camouflage vests that have stitched-in magazine pouches, but I prefer having nearly everything handy at belt level. I’ve found that it is slow and cumbersome to get magazines in an out of pouches that are any higher than my solar plexus. So that is why I’m still an ALICE LC-2 vintage dinosaur. But as they say, “Your mileage may vary” (YMMV).

Adding body armor to the equation changes things considerably, since full Interceptor Body Armor (IBA) with a MICH helmet weighs anywhere from 19 to 25 pounds, depending on sizes and how many add-on pieces–such as upgraded SAPI plates–are included. And keep in mind that those figures do not include the weight of ammo, magazines, a full hydration bladder, and various wunderkind gadgets. When wearing non-concealment body armor, a load bearing vest/carrier does make sense. Talk to the folks at BulletProofMe.com (one of our advertisers) for details on getting set up with body armor, pouches, and hydration systems that are practical and comfortable. As I’ve mentioned before, fitting is crucial with body armor, so talk with an experienced dealer with a big inventory and responsive customer service policies that can fit you properly.

Here is a brief overview on the older ALICE generation US military web gear. Greater detail can be found in FM 21-15, “Care And Use Of Individual Clothing And Equipment”, which can often be found at Amazon.com, Midway, GR8Gear.com, and LoadUp.com

Here is a PDF of a Fact Sheet on the latest MOLLE generation US military web gear. Since this is the era of the high tech Stryker soldier, most of the “documentation” for MOLLE gear is actually in the form of instructional DVDs. Oddly, I’ve never seen these DVDs for sale in the civilian world. (But no doubt the Airsoft Mall Ninjas have a secret distribution system, via Bit Torrents or some such.)

The majority of ALICE and MOLLE items will interchange–meaning that in most instances you can clip an ALICE magazine pouch onto a MOLLE vest, or attach a MOLLE pouch onto a ALICE belt. Don’t be worried about mismatched colors or camouflage patterns. Practical civilian survival “ain’t a beauty contest.” In real world camouflage, randomness is a good thing. Anyone that tries to tell you that all your gear has to be “color coordinated” is a poseur.

Both ALICE and MOLLE gear is available from U.S. Cavalry Store. (BTW, if you follow that link then we’ll get a little piece of the action when you order.)

Letter Re: Soft Nose Loads for Battle Rifles

Dear James:
Having recently acquired two M14 pattern rifles and some reloading equipment, I was interested to read yesterday’s article on using soft point ammunition in battle rifles. As a Canadian citizen, my main battle rifle options were quite limited. Firstly, our misguided “gun control” legislation prohibits civilian ownership of most main battle rifles; FALs, CETMEs, G3s and the like are all “prohibited firearms”. However, semi-automatic M14 variants, such as the M1A and Norinco/Polytech M14 clones, are “non-restricted firearms” and can be bought with ease, used for hunting purposes, etc. (traditional wood stocked appearances apparently can deceive gun control bureaucrats). Secondly, the fact that in Canada the Norinco M-14S/M-305 semi-auto M14 clones sell for $400-500 as opposed to $1,800-2,000 for [Springfield Armory] M1As is quite compelling; one can buy two Norinco M14S’s, plus reloading gear, plus a few hundred rounds of ammunition for the cost of a single M1A. [JWR Adds: Be advised that a good portion of the Chinese M14S production has suffered from insufficiently heat-treated (“soft”) bolts and some very bad bolt geometry. Clint McKee at Fulton Armory recommends replacing both their bolts and barrels. The result will be a reliable rifle.]

Reloading for Norinco M14S’s is quite popular north of the border. I’d recommend this site as a guide for those interested in reloading for the M14.

Two rules that I now follow when reloading for my Norinco M14S’s is to always use CCI primers; they are harder than the competition’s primers and indent less upon chambering. Given the M14 pattern rifle’s robust design, they do not require soft-primered cartridges to function. The difference in indentation on chambering between CCI primers and Winchester primers is visible to the naked eye. I never had a slam-fire with the 300 rounds I loaded using Winchester primers, but having seen the difference with the CCI primers, I now use CCI exclusively. Secondly, when reloading .308 brass for my M-14S’s, I load conservatively, replicating the M80 [standard ball] 7.62 load (although I eventually plan to experiment with replicating M118 and M852), which is below maximums for .308 Winchester, and carefully inspect each case before reloading it. It goes without saying that handloading is an activity that demands extreme care and meticulousness.

[JWR Adds: Keep in mind when working up “GI Ball” 150 grain soft nose equivalents (or “GI Match” 168 grain soft nose equivalents) that because of the thicker brass used with military 7.62 mm NATO cases, the case volumes differ considerably from civilian .308 Winchester brass.]

Lastly, I’d like to say thank you for all the energy and devotion that you’ve put into running SurvivalBlog. It’s been a daily read for me since I discovered it a few years ago, and I routinely recommend it to friends. It’s provided invaluable guidance to me in my preparations. Best Regards, – A Somewhat Prepared Canadian.

Odds ‘n Sods:

American Fork [, Utah] Man Is Food Storage Fanatic

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Rod M. sent us a link to this tongue-in-cheek piece from Australia on the resurgence of survivalism: Where is The Safest Place on Earth? BTW, the article includes mention of our spin-off web site, SurvivalRealty.com

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Several readers sent this: Mormons prepared for hard times. While I’ll never see eye-to-eye with the LDS church doctrinally, I highly commend them for their food storage policy and their extensive cannery and bishop’s warehouse infrastructures.

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Another huge batch of economic news and commentary from Cheryl: One Third of US Banks May Fail or Merge In 2009 — Fed Grants Request to Make GMAC a Bank Holding Company — 32,000 UK Realtors Jobs Wiped Out — Economy on Knife-Edge as Japan Faces Deflation Fears — Retailers Foresee Dire 2009 — British GDP Drops Faster than 1940s — Gas Prices Drift to 58-Month Low — Joel Skousen: 2008 in Review — Financial Markets and Economic Potpourri December 26, 2008 — Insolvent Financial System Signals Higher Gold — Families Turning to Insurance Fraud to Beat Credit Crunch — Economists Who Called it Right & Predictions for 2009 — Crackdown on Bailed-Out Banks (But will the legislation go retroactive?) — Housing Has its Worst Monthly Price Drop in 20 Years

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"And the LORD shall guide thee continually, and satisfy thy soul in drought, and make fat thy bones: and thou shalt be like a watered garden, and like a spring of water, whose waters fail not." – Isaiah 58:11