Odds ‘n Sods:

Lawlessness after quake in Chile fishing village. The article begins: “Rene Orellana sleeps with a shotgun in his hands. ‘I have to,’ he says, motioning towards a shattered window frame covered with a tarpaulin.” (Thanks to Alex S. for the link.) We also read: Chile May Face More Blackouts After 80% Lose Power
   o o o

Some excellent “old knowledge” links to references like Late 19th Century/Early 20th Century formularies were recently posted over at the LATOC Forums. I recommend archiving some of these on CD-ROMs. (Thanks to Bob G. for sending the tip!)

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M24 Sniper Rifle Fixes in the Works.

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Several folks wrote to ask me for more information about the The Carrington Event of 1859, that I mentioned in my recent radio interview with George Noory on Coast-to-Coast AM. Here is a good summary: The Great Storm: Solar Tempest of 1859 Revealed.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“…the United States government and its agencies have, by far, the largest pile-up of interest-bearing debts ($15.6 trillion), the largest accumulation of unsecured obligations (over $60 trillion), the largest yearly deficit ($1.6 trillion), and the greatest indebtedness to the rest of the world ($4.8 trillion).” – Martin D. Weiss



Notes from JWR:

I’ve added several new bookmarks to my Links page.

Today is the last day in the Ready Made Resources 25% off sale on Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans. They are now offering free shipping on mixed case lots, as long as you order in increments of full cases! Get your order in by midnight, eastern time!

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



The Palm Stick for Self-Defense, by Kent

The palm stick, sometimes called a Yawara stick, or Kubotan, is an excellent and highly effective tool for self-defense. The tactical folding knife and the concealed pistol typically dominate the self-defense culture, especially when weapons are discussed. However, the palm stick has several advantages and applications that firearms and knives cannot match.

Typically a palm stick measure around six inches in length, and about a half inch in diameter. Six inches is a good length, in my opinion. This combines concealment with a length that is still practical for offensive moves. A half inch may be a tad skinny, but too much thicker and one starts to get into concealment issues again, as well as weight and gripping ability. On the whole, I have found that the commercial off-the-shelf palm stick to be sufficient for the average citizen.

Since most of our palm sticks are going to be key chains, it pays to be aware of everything else that is in your pocket, and not to keep your keys in a place that is not readily accessible. One of the things I do is typically grab onto the kubotan and hold onto it loosely if I think there may be any sort of confrontation. It’s important to practice pulling the stick from its place of concealment, and practice with a purpose.

By “practice with a purpose”, I mean simply bring the palm stick out and strike a target, real or imaginary. Do it with speed. One of the things I do, with a palm stick or folding knife, is bring it out and thrust it straight towards the chin area of an imagined opponent. This is good in either provoking a flinch, or hitting a target that can cause a great deal of pain, allowing for a successful escape.

Once you have practiced drawing the palm stick, it’s time to practice swinging it, stick part first. Obviously, its length precludes one from swinging the palm stick like a baton. However, there are a great variety of other techniques that are surprisingly effective.

For starters, grip the stick in the center, with a closed fist wrapped all the way around, making sure that there is a sufficient striking surface sticking out of both sides of the fist. One can grip off-center, and use the palm stick in a similar fashion as a knife, but that is not a technique I would recommend for beginners.

Next, practice a hammerfist technique, with the outside portion of your fist, or the part made up by the pinky finger. This is quite possibly one of the simplest strikes to learn and practice. Practice an overhead strike, a backhand hammerfist, a low hammerfist, and a palm-up hammer fist. Try striking in a variety of angles, with the hand in different positions. The length and hardness of the palm stick will turn this simple technique into one that becomes devastating when applied to nearly any part of the body. Imagine slipping this hammerfist into someone’s ribs, head, cheek, neck, hand, forearm, and you begin to see my point. It is a simple way to cause pain and damage to an attacker.

The next thing to do is practice with the inside of the fist, the part along the thumb. This strike may take a little more practice and finesse, but it also can be quicker, and just as painful. Practice strikes from top, bottom, left and right. Aim high, low, face, stomach, ribs, anywhere you can think of to strike. Later on, I will list some of my favorite targets. The forward portion of the fist also requires a little bit of coordination. If you find yourself having trouble, try to imagine a hook punch or a haymaker punch. In essence, this is what you are throwing, only not with the knuckles of the fist. Also, do not neglect a palm up strike.

Now, you already have formed a fist. Might as well take advantage of the fist and the natural inclination to punch someone, and practice a few jabs and crosses, with the palm stick. Punching with the palm stick has many advantages over having an empty hand. For starters, there is a little added weight to the hand, making a punch have more impact. Secondly, if the punch itself misses, the palm stick may graze the person, or the keys that may be attached to the stick. Last, and probably most important, the palm stick provides a measure of support and reinforcement for the knuckles and finger bones in the fist. Many people can easily break their own bones by punching someone in the head, which is an instinctive place to punch. A palm stick is one method of reinforcing these fragile bones and preventing serious injury.

Once again, a boxer’s delivery will help the most for punching. If you have no prior experience, simply try to remember a couple things. Always keep your hands up, bring your hands right back to your guard, and don’t rear back for the punch. Most likely if you have internet access, you can find a couple videos that can get you started on learning how to punch properly. At the end of this article I will provide a list of references for more information on punching and weapons for self-defense.
Now, in the case of a key-chain palm stick, the keys themselves have tremendous advantage over just a palm stick without keys. Keys are sharp, somewhat heavy, and can be swung by that palm stick with a decent amount of force. Practice swinging the keys in an X-pattern, known as ikis in Kali. Swing diagonally from upper right, then from upper left. The goal is to not only hit the person, but also convince them that you mean business so that they may run off and find easier prey. If they decide to rush in, imagine the consequence of taking a set of keys to the face. The psychological impact alone of having sharp metal objects swung at one’s face cannot be overlooked. If the attacker puts their hands up in attempt to ward off an attack, then any low-line targets such as the thigh, knee, or groin are open for some other attack.

A couple of years ago, a friend introduced the idea of holding the keys and swinging the palm stick. This is not my favorite method, but that does not mean it should not be trained. The advantages of this are that the palm stick typically has more solid mass than the keys, and can be swing a little harder due to leverage. I think that the keys are a bit trickier to get a grip on, but that may be my personal opinion. In any event, swinging the palm stick can be used just like swinging the keys. Describe an X pattern in the air in front of you. Ideally, this X should start at about the enemy’s collar bone, and cross about the solar plexus.

Care must be taking to balance striking power with control. Take care not to over-swing, and over-commit. W. Hock Hocheim describes the “window of combat”, a rectangle loosely bordered by mid thigh, to about shoulder height, no wider than the shoulders. If your swings start getting outside of this window, you are over-swinging, and opening yourself up to an enemy being able to defeat your defenses.

The palm stick can also be applied to a variety of pain points. The middle of the back of the hand, the notch at the bottom of the throat, under the nose, under the mouth, and behind the ear are some of the ones that come to mind immediately. A quick strike to the carotid artery, no matter how lightly, can have literally stunning results on an opponent. A strike to the temple can be potentially fatal, as can a strike to the trachea.

Using a palm stick, it can be possibly to break an attacker’s collarbone with a hammerfist attack. If you are grabbed, in addition to a releasing technique, a quick strike to either the offending limb or the person’s solar plexus will loosen their grip, making it easier to get away.

If you double the person over, a hammerfist to the back of the neck can have potentially fatal consequences, and will at least leave the attacker stunned and lying on the ground, unable to continue the attack. The palm stick can be thrust into either the groin or the solar plexus, with devastatingly painful results. [JWR Adds: In many law enforcement circles, baton strikes to the neck or head are considered potentially lethal, and reserved only for life-threatening situations that are comparable to firing a gun.] If the groin seems protected, the inside of the leg can be struck, as this can strike or come close to striking the femoral artery, a painful and potentially stunning blow. If the hands are high, aim for the ribs with either the inside or outside edge of the hammerfist. Ribs are always a good target for causing maximum pain and damage.

If you know any throws or takedowns, the palm stick can assist. One simple judo throw, o-soto gari, calls for the fist to apply pressure to the collarbone. That same pressure can be applied with the palm stick, to the collarbone or the throat area, making this simple foot sweep even more effective.

Against edged weapons, the palm stick has somewhat less usefulness. As always, the best chance of success against and edged weapon is to catch the weapon bearing limb, preferably after hitting the attacker with a chair, brick, or a car. Once you have caught the weapon bearing limb, you can beat on the wrist, the fragile bones of the hand, the elbow, and the inside of the biceps. All areas are vulnerable to strikes, and have numerous pain receptors. In the case of the inside of the biceps, there is a nerve cluster there that tends to send a shooting pain down the arm, sometimes making it go numb. It is not a strike to count on, but a possible and worthwhile target nevertheless.

A palm stick can be homemade quite easily. One merely has to select a thickness of dowel, preferable at least a half inch thick, measure out enough so that there is a striking surface of at least a quarter inch on each side of the fist, and cut it to fit. Added options include placing a weight in the center of the stick, drilling two holes in the stick and tying a cord [to make it into a Koppo stick], or making one end slightly sharper, or at least more pointed than the other.

At least one martial art that I’ve seen, Goju-Ryu Karate, which is an Okinawan style, has a kata that uses two palm sticks, although they are considerably smaller than what I’ve described here. Many Filipino systems cover the palm stick, if not in precise detail.

Many tactical folding knives can double as a palm stick, if the user is not able to deploy the blade right away. However, some State [and local] laws may prohibit carry of knives [or even palm sticks]. But keep in mind that several tactical flashlights, such as Surefire [and Mini-MagLite], can be used as a palm stick. Surefire and a couple other companies make flashlights with beveled front edges, specifically for this purpose. [JWR Adds: These are generally legal to carry. Ditto for beefy pens that run the gamut from the very inexpensive Cold Steel Pocket Shark to the very expensive Mont Blanc Meisterstuck. If you opt for the Pocket Shark (which, BTW, is what I carry when I fly on commercial airplane flights), then I recommend scraping off all of the pen’s exterior markings. Be sure to consult the laws for wherever you will travel!]

There is a great deal of martial arts instructional material available on sites like YouTube if one does a simple search. [JWR Adds: Try doing searches at YouTube that include “palm stick “, “Kubotan”, and even the very common misspelling: “Kubaton”.] Much of my own instruction has come from W. Hock Hocheim, and guru Marc Halleck. Both individuals have first rate instructional DVDs.

In summary, the palm stick is an overlooked and easily used piece of self-defense equipment. Useful for striking and grappling, it can cause a great deal of pain with a reduced risk to the user. It’s easily concealed, easily employed. Overlooked by the majority of law enforcement officers and civilians alike, it can be hidden in plain sight. You’ll never have to leave it in your house while you go to the bank or a school board meeting. With a little elbow grease one can be custom made for every member of the family. The principles of the palm stick can be taught to children and adults. It is not a tool that depends on the use of the right hand or left hand. It may not have the range of some other more conventional self-defense tools, but it is much more versatile than the average citizen realizes.

About the Author: Kent is an 11-year veteran of the U.S. Army’s Infantry Corps, now serving his third tour in Iraq. He has been studying Filipino Martial Arts (Kali, Arnis, and Silat), for about seven years. In addition, he has been training in various military and civilian combatives programs since joining the Army. He has taught combatives and martial arts to his fellow soldiers, and civilians.

JWR Adds: A full line of inexpensive yet very well-made high impact American-made plastic palm sticks is available from Alpha Innovations. They also make “Letter Openers”, and other other high density injection-molded goodies. Their “Stylus Kubaton” variant is ideal for anyone that carries a touchscreen PDA or an iPhone. (Consult your local laws before ordering!) OBTW, they also make some amazing custom products and sell training DVDs.



Letter Re: More About CO2 for Extending Food Storage Life

Hello,
Thank you so much for your books and Internet work. I have been storing food using the method of dry ice fumigation with five gallon buckets and mylar bags [as described in “How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It”. and in the “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course]. My family and I enjoy using brown rice quite a bit and I have read many articles explaining the oxidation of the fatty acids which is what causes the brown rice to have a short shelf life. What I can’t seem to find is an answer to whether the replacement of air in the mylar bags with carbon dioxide will slow down or stop the rice from going rancid. I thought that maybe you have run across the science behind this idea. Does the minimal amount of gas exchange from outside the container negate this affect?

I have a couple of other observations regarding this storage method as well. When preparing to package foods I always crank up the wood stove in my house so there isn’t a lot of moisture in the air to get in the food. With that said, I still get quite a lot of ice crystals, that turn into water, forming on the outside of the dry ice chunks while they sublimate. I usually put a piece of paper under the dry ice so the residual water doesn’t make it’s way down into the food and get trapped there when I seal up the container. I am not sure if the moisture is originating from the air in my house or from the food that I am packaging. Either way this got me concerned about the advice, which I have seen on many web sites and in other books, that you can put the dry ice on the bottom the container and put the food on top of it. I would think that this would trap some water at the bottom of the container, which is not a good thing.

My other observation has been that after the dry ice is done sublimating and I seal up the mylar bags with my wife’s hair straightener, within a couple of days I go back and check on the bags and they look like they have been vacuum sealed. Apparently there is some sort of chemical reaction with the carbon dioxide that creates a vacuum in the bag. The question about this would be if there are any long term consequences from this reaction regarding shelf life or food quality. Again, thank you so much for all that you do and feel free to post this if you find it to be helpful. Best Regards, – Jesse in Oregon

JWR Replies: Rancidity is caused by oxidation and hydrolysis. The time required for rancidity to occur varies, with temperature as one of the biggest factors. (The higher the temperature, the quicker the onset of rancidity.) Foods with high oil content are prone to what is called oxidative rancidity. This is where there is a degradation of long-chain fatty acids into various short-chain compounds. One of the byproducts is butyric acid, which creates the distinctive “gone rancid” smell. To make a long story short, to minimize the risk of rancidity, keep rice stored below 60 degrees (the ideal would be just above freezing, but avoid fluctuations in and out of freezing), and at the same time minimize exposure to oxygen. Hence, CO2 packaging inside a mylar barrier bag works quite well.



Letter Re: A Total Collapse of the Dollar?

James,
Chris Wood, of CLSA and author of the Greed & Fear newsletter, was recently interviewed on CNBC and stated that the collapse of the Dollar would likely take place within five years. CNBC’s Dennis Kneale, however, asserts that the Dollar is “self-healing”, so that when the panic begins, “…suddenly people want to go into the Dollar, because the US Government is the most stable government on the planet”. I had to rewind, because I couldn’t believe what I had just heard.

This is precisely why looking to mainstream news sources as reliable conduits of factual information is so dangerous. If the US
government is the most stable government on the planet, then the world is in worse shape than I’d ever imagined. Cheers, – H.H.



Economics and Investing:

J.D.D. sent this British newspaper article: Detroit family homes sell for just $10

CNN Money offers a baker’s dozen of articles about America’s fiscal disaster. (Thanks to S.M. for the link.)

Straycat sent us this item: States Facing Financial Doomsday as Debts Mount

SurvivalBlog’s Poet Laureate, George Gordon (“GG”), spotted this: New round of foreclosures threatens housing market

My old friend Sandy mentioned this: Iceland, the Mouse that Roared.

Odds ‘n Sods:



Odds ‘n Sods:

Richard S. liked this article on aquaculture: Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish.

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My brother Bruce (the well-known Sacred Geometry author) sent me a link to a YouTube video that has absolutely nothing to do with preparedness, but that is a lot of fun: The Ultimate Rube Goldberg Contraption. (Don’t forget that despite my rural locale, I’m still one of those semi-geeky Makezine guys that likes watching those Eepy Bird Experiments.)

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U.S. reverses stance on treaty to regulate arms trade. (Watch out folks: Hillary is at the helm on this one!)

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Ian (from Nanny State Britannia) set a link to a BBC piece about the Open Carry movement in the United States: Armed and ready to shop. The dozens of anti-gun comments that were posted following the article are indicative that the UK is a lost cause. Take the Gap!





Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Considerations for Building and Equipping the Underground Room You Need, by Jim O.

My wife and I lived in place with no underground  rooms (such as a basement of a cellar) since we have been married.  As I have matured and my desire for disaster preparation has increased, I began to realize the importance of having an underground room for storage (particularly food storage and other things necessary for survival in the event of a short term or long term TEOTWAWKI) and protection from disasters such as heavy storms, tornadoes, nuclear activity, etc.  My career in construction, specializing in masonry and excavation, made this goal one that was easily attainable and I would like to share some things that I incorporated as I built and prepared this space for those possible emergency situations.

We were in need of a master bedroom addition on our small home.  So I decided to incorporate our underground room under it.  I will talk about the stages along the way that you will face so that you (working with the people that you may need to hire) can be prepared and have a head start.

The first step is to obtain the proper permits (a step that I decided to skip, as I live in a lenient county in a very rural area).  I chose to keep my project as low key as possible.  But I thought I should include this step because life could become very difficult in some areas where building inspectors and codes are strict.  Be sure to know where all underground utilities and wires are at on the property before moving forward with excavation.  Severing gas and electrical lines will most certainly ruin your day. [JWR Adds: There are free line-locating services provided by most utilities. In the US, just call 811. See this site for “pre-dig” numbers for Canada.]

After excavating, I poured the floor.   If you are not experienced  placing and finishing concrete, you will want to seriously consider hiring professional help.  If you decide you have the skills and strength to take on this task, make sure you have all the tools and adequate manpower to help.  Make sure to adequately reinforce your concrete (I always use steel reinforcing bar (“rebar”) of at least 3/8” diameter).  I poured my floor approximately 6 inches thick.  You may want to pour concrete footers and lay up (or pour) your walls on the footers, leaving the floor to pour later.  I opted just to pour a thick, adequately reinforced floor, and lay up my walls on it.   Wanting to have some space for a root cellar, I left the floor in that area a dirt floor (to increase humidity, important for root cellaring).   I used standard  8x8x16 block for the walls.  You could form and pour your walls with concrete if you prefer.  I poured the cells of the block with rebar and concrete for reinforcement (making sure to leave adequate rebar extended to tie the ceiling and walls together).  Remember, concrete strength is always unpredictable without the use of reinforcement.   For the root cellar, I left lower and upper ventilation for circulation, also important.

As I planned, I decided to go with a seven foot ceiling.  I decided this because I wanted to be able to drain water without the use of pumps, and this made it possible.  Rain and groundwater can be your worst enemy, and I did not want to depend on a pump and electricity to take care of removing water.  I put a drain line in the dirt section of floor in the root cellar and sloped the concrete slightly towards the drain.  A pump may be necessary for your situation.  If it is, you may want to consider using a sump pump capable of being run by a battery backup.  Do not forget to put your sump pump pit in before pouring your floor and slope your concrete accordingly.  Proper grade around the perimeter of your  underground room will greatly reduce the risk of water problems, especially when combined with properly installed gutters (if your underground room has a room above it like ours does).   Also install  a waterproof coating on the outside of the walls and a perimeter drain.  Again, the perimeter drain would best be drained by gravity, but if this is not possible, drain it into your sump pump.  Always backfill with an adequate amount of gravel.  This will allow water to infiltrate down to the perimeter drain freely and will help keep your perimeter drain from being plugged.  I have been in this kind of work for many years, and I have seen many water problems caused by improperly  installed perimeter drains that have eventually filled with silt over time.

I decided to go with a concrete lid, heavily reinforced with ½” diameter rebar, to top off our new 16 ft by 20 ft underground room.   You will want to find out how much reinforcement and how thick the concrete will need to be in order to span the distance you need.   Also critical is the placement of the rebar in the concrete.  When spanning an open room, you will want to place the rebar towards the bottom of your concrete.   Make sure to be vigilant to make all the necessary rebar connections.  Not many different building materials do worse in an earthquake than un-reinforced or improperly reinforced masonry and concrete.  When it is necessary to overlap (“lap”) your rebar, make sure that the length of the rebar lap is equal to 40 bar diameters of the size rebar you are using.  For example, if using ½ diameter (#4) rebar, your rebar lap will be 20 inches.  If you decide to go with a concrete lid, make sure to adequately brace your forms.  A collapse (or even a sag) would be a disaster for sure.  I used sheet metal roofing under the concrete, which ultimately become the ceiling of my room.  Make sure to leave some fasteners to anchor the sheet metal to the concrete, or the metal will sag when the forms are removed.

Since I wanted a dry and canned food storage (low humidity) area along with a root cellar, I built insulated walls to separate the two rooms.  I decided to build my own shelves for these rooms (you may want to buy yours).  Nonetheless, I took into consideration a few things.  One was to make them very sturdy.  Bulk food can be heavy.  Another consideration was to attach them to the walls and make a lip around the outside edge of the shelves.  That always unexpected earthquake could deplete your food supply quickly, especially glass containers.  I also liked the idea of building my own shelves so that I could build them to best suit my needs with the shelf heights and widths that were best for my particular situation.  This room would also be a great spot for your freezers.  You may want to consider a DC freezer with some solar panels and batteries or a propane freezer for those times of extended power outages.  Freezers may not be a necessity, but they sure would be a welcome luxury in those times without electricity.  This would also be a good spot to keep an adequate supply of drinking water.

Last thing I will leave you with to consider is your consideration for a dehumidifier.  You will want one for your dry storage area.  Moisture and stored foods do not go well together (not to mention moisture’s effect on guns, ammunition, other steel items, clothes, blankets, etc).  Some dehumidifiers operate better in lower temperatures, so do your research.

Since the completion of our room, this space has proven to be well worth the time and resources that it took to build it.  One day it may be crucial in the sustaining of our lives for any number of reasons.  Hope this article leaves those who read it with some helpful advice to think about.



Economics and Investing:

Courtesy of reader J.D.D.: Why the U.S. can’t inflate its way out of debt

Some Tough Love from the editors of Der Spiegel: Built on a Lie; The Fundamental Flaw of Europe’s Common Currency

Larry T. suggested this Powerline piece: Buy Gold.

Items from The Economatrix:

Why Italy Faces a Derivatives Time Bomb

Why California is Doomed

Double Dip is Coming in 2011

Welcome to the United States of Iceland

Big Ax Looming at FDNY: More than 1,000 Layoffs, 62 Fire Companies to be Closed

It’s Going to Implode, Buy Physical Gold Now

$2,000/oz. Gold by the End of the Year

States May Hold Onto Tax Refunds for Months

Subprime Lending Crisis: Auto Loans Thrive, Housing Down

Jobs May Rebound in 2010

Mass School Closures in Near Bankrupt Kansas City, Missouri



Odds ‘n Sods:

John at SurvivalistBooks.com sent us a link to an interesting article on American preppers, from a French newspaper: If the sh** hits the fan, they are ready for it.

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Chuck sent me this: Hard Times Turn Coupon Clipping Into the Newest Extreme Sport

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Tomorrow is the last day in the Ready Made Resources 25% off sale on Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans. They are now offering free shipping on mixed case lots, as long as you order in increments of full cases! Get your order in by midnight, eastern time on the 15th!

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Troy V. wrote to mention a radio interview with Gerald Celente, wherein he recounts his experiences in Chile during the recent earthquake. Apparently, he and a friend set a new world speed record for running down hotel stairwells.

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Several readers sent the link to this piece by Michelle Malkin: Obama’s war on fishing?



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

Praise ye the LORD. Sing unto the LORD a new song, [and] his praise in the congregation of saints.
Let Israel rejoice in him that made him: let the children of Zion be joyful in their King.
Let them praise his name in the dance: let them sing praises unto him with the timbrel and harp.
For the LORD taketh pleasure in his people: he will beautify the meek with salvation.
– Psalm 149:1-4 (KJV)



Notes from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.