Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“It is better to trust in the LORD than to put confidence in man. [It is] better to trust in the LORD than to put confidence in princes.” – Psalm 118:8-9 (KJV)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.)A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.)

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Small Breed Dogs–Nature’s Leatherman Tool, by B.C.

Allow me to begin with a request. Close your eyes and conjure up an image of a small dog into your mind. Is it snarling viciously? Straining at it’s owner’s leash pointlessly while they offer empty apologies for its behavior? Perhaps it’s groomed in a ridiculous fashion, poking its timid head out from a large handbag in an L.A. Salon.

All of these things are, of course, absurd applications of an otherwise useful creature. Small dogs were bred for very specific working purposes long before they were adapted as fashion accessories, becoming the misfits of the canine world. Please keep in mind that they are every bit as trainable as their larger counterparts. The sad fact is that large dogs are generally trained due to the potentially dire consequences if they are not trained. On the other hand, the vices of small dogs are rated by their owners as easier to live with than the alternative (i.e.: training them).

As prevalent as this condition is today, it is a fault of the modern owner, and not the dog. Remember that the small dogs were hunting rats, rabbits, and other vermin on the farms of your ancestors long before Paris Hilton ever stuffed one into her over sized Gucci purse.

With that rant having been voiced, I’ll start with a summary of the reasons you’d want a dog in the first place The greatest of them is companionship.

Try to reconcile with the fact that when the SHTF your friends (presumably unprepared) will be far away (assume by foot) and unreachable (assume by mobile). Would they follow you out of the city anyway? Probably not. So when you’re 20 miles past town limits, alone and exhausted, you will be running out of something you can’t pack into a go-bag.

Morale is the canine’s best asset. Dogs do not mourn for the loss of a home, car, job or wide screen television. On the contrary, they will be overjoyed that you now have all the time in the world to spend with them. Their perspective is always “glass half full”, and it will carry you a long way. Even during hard times, my dogs have lifted my spirits immeasurably. In a SHTF situation i would consider their company invaluable for this reason alone.

Regardless, that’s really the tip of the iceberg. Here are the more obvious reasons that dog has been man’s best friend for millennia.

They are a great early warning system, not only against human intruders, but wild (or formerly domesticated) animals. Think about it. Are feral dogs a threat? Sure. But that raccoon that steals your food in the middle of the night may prove just as deadly in the long run.

They can smell opportunity as well as danger. Keep them hungry (not starving) and they will find food sure enough. After all, dogs are natural scavengers, and so might you be if worst comes to worst.

They are also natural hunters. Sure, some breeds excel at it by birthright, but for other breeds it’s just a matter of training. The capabilities of an intelligent dog are capped only by the limits of the owner’s imagination.

They are loyal. Often to the death. How many of your friends can you say that about? Keep them from starving and they’ll stick to you like glue.

Finally, I’ll add that they are excellent guardians when push comes to shove, though this can also be a drawback for reasons I’ll discuss later.

The question is, why a small dog rather than a large one?

As an early warning system the two are more or less deadlocked. Breed by breed you might find one better than the next, but my Maltese Cross is every bit as aware as my Retriever, and less lazy about voicing his concerns (for better or worse).

For purposes of scavenging they are deadlocked again. A small dog can find anything a large dog can. If anything, a small dog can go through an abandoned car with far more ease, and will eat far less of what’s found.

Hunting? You could go either way, but assuming you’re on the move there’s no point in bagging a deer when a rabbit will suffice. The question once again is “how much of the kill is going to Fido?” Besides, small dogs often have the edge against small game, as they can more easily stalk their prey and can also shift their momentum swiftly if a chase ensues. I can attest that my Maltese cross is a terror to the local rodent population. My Retriever is not. (On this note, never assume you will not be lowered to eating vermin. It’s called Survivalism. Not Thrivalism.)

Regarding loyalty, a dog is a dog. I’d have trouble naming a breed that will abandon a loving owner in their time of need.

In terms of defending yourself, the big dog has the edge. But! If you’re approaching a group of strangers or a checkpoint, your growling Rottweiler may get you both shot. A small furry head poking out from the top of your shirt will only endear you to strangers in an instant.

Yet I hear you say “I’m manly and tough. I think I’ll stick with the big dog thanks.”

Well consider the following.

1. The small dog (with regular walks) can live happily enough in an apartment. He’ll provide a vocal deterrent to intruders, which is often encouragement enough to find a different target. Conversely, large dogs and apartments do not mix well…
2. Small dogs are easier to train than you think. The key to all canine interaction is establishing dominance. The smaller the dog, the easier this is.
3. The small dog will eat and drink next to nothing. This is clearly a massive pro if you’re hitting the road after all hell breaks loose.
4. The small dog can be carried easily. In your backpack no less. Imagine your 60+ pound Doberman has gone lame after walking 20 miles on asphalt. Enough said…
5. In a world of guns and gangs it’s foolish to think that an attack breed dog will even the odds. On the contrary, that scary dog is more likely to spark the firefight that will end your life.

Picking a breed of dog is an important decision, but remember to research these key points.

1. Energy levels. Some dogs need 10 miles a day underfoot or they’ll turn your furniture into scrap. Others will groan at having to spend five minutes on a treadmill.
2. Intelligence. The smarter the dog, the more you will have to exercise it’s mind. Training them is best, but games will suffice.

If/when the SHTF you’ll want a short-haired dog. Keeping it warm is easy enough, and doing so is a welcome alternative to pulling burrs from the fur of long haired breeds (not to mention locating ticks).

Also, avoid breeds that do not have a working history. They’re usually bred for their visual “assets” and will not serve as well as time honored breeds do.

If I had to recommend one, it would be the Jack Russell Terrier (check it on Wikipedia if you care to). They’re a working breed, highly intelligent, and extremely durable. I’ve personally seen one fall (not jump deliberately) fifteen feet onto concrete, get up with a huff, and walk away fine. That said, this is a very challenging dog to own and train. It is not for the faint of heart, but then again, neither is survival after the collapse…

I wont go into details about training dogs. I would wear out my keyboard in the process. If i give just one piece of advice in the matter, it’s this;

Dogs are a pack animal and should defer to you as the pack leader in all things. They do not walk in front of you. They do not eat or drink before you eat or drink. Even the simple act of sitting on your lap gives the dog the idea that “it owns you” (it can stay there as long as you rest a hand on top of it).

Attain dominance and everything else will fall into place.

A recommendation. If you choose to buy a dog, get a copy of the Dog Whisperer DVDs with Cesar Millan. It’s gold for a dog owner. Especially someone adopting a mature dog rather than a puppy.

My experience is that responsible dog owners never regret the journey they embark on when they acquire their first canine companion. After all. Who else in the world values table scraps more than gold and silver 🙂 – B.C.

Economics and Investing:

Can you spell monetization? Federal Reserve Accounts For 50% of Second Quarter Treasury Purchases (Thanks to GG for the link.)

GG also flagged this piece in the Globe and Mail: Desperately seeking an exit strategy. (Roubini says debt monetization and inflation “the path of least resistance”)

J.O. suggested this piece by Peter Schiff: Lehman Brothers Revisited

Items from The Economatrix:

UK: Crude Price “Shock” Next Threat to Recovery

UK: Markets in Government-Fueled Bubble Says Hedge Fund Manager

US Debt Crisis May Cause “Fall Of Rome” Scenario

Things are Getting Better?

Thank The Fed for Your Lack of Purchasing Power (The Mogambo Guru)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"While the people have property, arms in their hands, and only a spark of noble spirit, the most corrupt Congress must be mad to form any project of tyranny."- Rev. Nicholas Collin (1745-1831) Fayetteville Gazette (N.C.), October 12, 1789

Preparedness Information for Diabetics, by Chuck Fenwick

I ran across an article on survival and diabetics written by a nurse. It was what we call a basic brush and floss kind of article that quoted from some well-known medical books. I call it a brush and floss article because it contained mostly information which a diabetic already knows, much like the way a dentist tells you what your mom has told you a bazillion times about brushing your teeth.

However at the end of the article the nurse pretty much consigned type 1 diabetics to doom and even referenced Darwin and the “survival of the fittest”. I know in the novel One Second After, the diabetic daughter died because of lack of insulin, but the part in the book about it going bad because of temperature variations is not accurate.

Here’s some information which will be of help to those who use insulin, specifically Humulin. We’ve been helping with diabetic preparedness for several years and there are some important things which are not common knowledge. Humulin–unopened–has a shelf-life of at least one year at room temperature. And Humulin can be frozen without ill effects to the user. Lilly won’t tell you this, but I know of a type 1 diabetic who froze a year’s supply for Y2K.

Her name is Madeline and in 1999 she called me to ask if I knew if insulin could be safely frozen. I told her that I didn’t know, but I would find out. Several of us in the Medical Corps organization started making calls and found out it could. I relayed the good news to Madeline. I suggested that if she were going to freeze it that she keep a log of her blood sugar test values with un-frozen insulin and then with the frozen insulin. She did and her blood sugar did not vary. In fact, Madeline still practices that type of preparedness with her disease.

As for the Darwin and the natural selection mindset, EMP or not, this country is not the Titanic. There are lifeboats for everyone. As medical people, and for non medical as well, our job is not to pick who gets to live or die simply because we may not know the answer to the problem. Our job is to solve the problem and not bow down to Darwin or “selection” or ignorance. Diabetics, preemies, old people, retarded children and the like are not mass causalities and a matter of triage. They are just a people problem which can be solved. I do not have the moral right to pronounce doom on the sick or injured. I do have a moral obligation to at least try to solve a problem.

To say that a Type 1 diabetic wouldn’t have a tough time of it if the system collapsed would be untrue, but problems can be solved. People who are insulin dependent or dependent on any medications need to put away extra supplies for treatment and support of their condition. I would not solely count on electronic devices either. Telemetry has a bad habit of failing, so old fashioned ways of checking blood sugar might not be that old fashioned if we lose telemetry because of an EMP. Keep in mind that there are several other diabetic problems and that there are medications to treat them. Therefore, it is not just insulin which will be in short supply if the system fails.

These supplies will only be a cushion though if a disaster of the magnitude presented in, One Second After, happens. That cushion will give us some time to work on finding answers for a myriad of problems which would surface.

As for diabetics we will have to find a way to duplicate the work of Banting and Best and other researchers of the early 1920s. This isn’t a survival-of-the-fittest type of thing. It is a problem to be solved. Just recently some Canadian researchers injected capsaicin into the excess pain receptors of the pancreas of diabetic mice. Then a neuropeptide was used to soothe the inflammation. The pancreas immediately started producing insulin and 4 months later the previously diabetic mice were still “cured”.

Is the diabetic survival problem complex? Of course it is. All TEOTWAWKI problems tend to be complex. But they are still just problems to be solved. Keep in mind that if an EMP wiped out all type one diabetics, it would not be an end to type 1 diabetes. If it could be ended by some sort of natural selection then where did it come from in the first place?

Summary:

1) Humulin can be frozen without damaging the contents, bottle or seals and then used without ill effect to the patient.

2) Unopened Humulin has at least a one year shelf-life at room temperature (70 degrees F.)

3) Darwin wasn’t a diabetic or a survivalist so who cares what he said.

– Chuck Fenwick, Medical Corps

The SurvivalBlog Mirror Site Project

It troubled me to read news reports about the Cybersecurity Act of 2009, S.773. If enacted, the US President could declare a “cybersecurity emergency” and then would have the power to shut down the Internet in the U.S. and the Secretary of Commerce would have access to data, regardless of privacy. Soon after, I read this headline: Obama Plans Internet Grab: FCC to Embrace ‘Net Neutrality’. Needless to say, this could have some “negative implications.”

As some one who values redundancy in contingency planning, I believe that the time has come for me to set up one or two mirror sites for SurvivalBlog, just in case my blog somehow gets “disappeared.” Ideally, a mirror site would be housed on a server in a Second World country with few ties (economic or political) to the United States. I’d like to set up one or two full mirrors, each with unique domain names. This would be automagically backed up daily. We are currently housed using Apache on Linux, with a dedicated server. Once a mirror is established, I’d ask all SurvivalBlog readers to bookmark it, but not regularly use the mirror site, in order to limit the bandwidth, and to retain ease of click-through tracking for our advertisers . (They need to know that they are getting their money’s worth, for their advertising dollars.) Does anyone have suggestions for a reliable high bandwidth offshore web host? (Our current bandwidth is over 1terabyte per month, and likely to double in the next year.) Or do you have any recommendations on automatic mirroring software? Thanks.

Grub and Gear–Lessons Learned from an Alaskan Trapper, by Old Dog

James,
I enjoy your blog. I’m praying the Lord’s peace during your mourning. I greatly enjoyed the recent letter on Lessons-Learned from Alaska.

I’d like to add:
One way to deal with condensation on a rifle, or other piece of equipment, in cold climates is to bag it in plastic [such as a trash bag) outside, before entering a warm area. Once inside, the condensation will build up on the exterior of the bag. Once the rifle, or other equipment, comes up to the indoor temperature it may be removed from the plastic cover [and checked for condensation].

Lord Bless and Keep and Shine. – Cloudwarmer

Economics and Investing:

FG and Adam W. both flagged this: Homeowners who ‘strategically default’ on loans a growing problem. The article begins: “Who is more likely to walk away from a house and a mortgage — a person with super-prime credit scores or someone with lower scores? Research using a massive sample of 24 million individual credit files has found that homeowners with high scores when they apply for a loan are 50% more likely to “strategically default” — abruptly and intentionally pull the plug and abandon the mortgage — compared with lower-scoring borrowers.”

El Jefe Jeff E. recommended this piece by famed economist Arthur Laffer, in The Wall Street Journal: Taxes, Depression, and Our Current Troubles. Jeff’s comment: “Arthur Laffer makes interesting comparisons of today’s monetary policy with that of the Great Depression. The Fed has increased money supply 100% in recent months. A tax increase may be the tipping point.”

GG recommended this piece by a Cato Institute fellow: The growing debt bomb

Items from The Economatrix:

Oil Prices Dip Below $69, Supplies Jump

Fallen Money-Market Fund Makes $1 Billion Distribution

IMF: No Full Recovery Until 2015

UK: Jobless Claims Show Demise of Slump May Be Exaggerated

Treasuries Fall After 5-Year-Notes Auction

UK: HSBC Staff Carrying Personal Alarms in Case of Customer Rage

Devaluation Remains Bank’s Secret Weapon

Britain About to Lose AAA Credit Rating

Home Prices Rise 0.3%, Sign of Halting “Recovery”

Odds ‘n Sods:

Regular content contributor FG was first of a dozen readers to send us this news article link: America armed, but guns not necessarily loaded. JWR’s comment: The US ammo shortage is likely to abate early next year, as demand is satiated, and supplies increase.

   o o o

Reader John G. mentioned that James Talmage Stevens has just released the 11th edition of his heretofore hard-to-find book Making the Best of Basics – Family Preparedness Handbook. In the new updated and expanded edition, the page count has nearly doubled. I consider this book a “must have” for every well-prepared family’s bookshelf.

   o o o

Cheryl was the first of several readers to mention this: How a Family Shed $106,000 in Debt in One Year

   o o o

R.O. recommended this article: Curfew-trapped Hondurans seek food amid crisis

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"The more subsidized it is, the less free it is. What is known as "free education" is the least free of all, for it is a state-owned institution; it is socialized education – just like socialized medicine or the socialized post office – and cannot possibly be separated from political control." – Frank Chodorov (1887-1966), Why Free Schools Are Not Free

Notes from JWR:

I was recently quoted briefly in a Dallas newspaper article about Radius Engineering: Explosive ingenuity; Walton McCarthy designs modern-day underground shelters to protect clients from long-term effects of disasters.

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.)A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.)

Second Prize: A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Tactical River Crossings–An Emergency Alternative to Bridges, by Jacob R.

Many of you could be faced with the unique challenge of crossing a river during any number of “The End Of The World As We Know It” (TEOTWAWKI) scenarios. I have pre-positioned a respectable stock of supplies at my primary “Get Out Of Dodge” (G.O.O.D.) retreat site, however have multiple caches at various locations to ensure my family has a fighting chance at survival.  While I hope and pray to be able to evacuate my family safely via vehicle just prior to any TEOTWAWKI scenario.  Murphy’s Law reminds us that, “What can go wrong, will go wrong.”  Hence any prudent planner should be prepared to evacuate on foot.  In this article I will discuss how to successfully cross both open and ice-covered rivers without the use of traditional modern means such as the utilization of bridges and/or boats.  I will not be distinguishing between day or night crossings.  That choice is left to you after reviewing your specific situation and circumstances.

Before I begin I want to emphasize the importance of not limiting yourself to only the use of main transportation routes that force you to place you and your loved ones at a tactical disadvantage. 

Recommended Equipment:
Many of the items listed are multifunctional and most of them should already be found in any well-designed Preparedness Kit and/or Bug Out Bag:

  • Convenient Carry Case
  • Multiple Inflatable Inner Tubes
  • Rubber Tire Patch Kit
  • 55-Gallon Barrel Liner Bags and/or Heavy Duty Trash Bags
  • Compact Manual Bicycle Pump
  • 550 Parachute Cord
  • Duct Tape
  • Knife
  • Topographical Maps
  • Camper’s Towel
  • Binoculars or Monocular

Recommend Prior Knowledge:
Prior to any crossing, preparations must be taken.  It is highly encouraged that all adults and children of appropriate age learn the basics of open water swimming.  This should include at a minimum: Treading Water, Front-Crawl, and the Side-Stroke.  (Note:  Swimming is a life-long skill set and while this method of crossing does not require you to be a strong swimmer, some level of capability and confidence is desired.)

It is also encouraged to clearly know the warning signs, symptoms, and treatment for hypothermia.  No matter the weather conditions, hypothermia is of major concern and should always be watched for post any crossing attempt.  I can not stress how important this is.  Immersion hypothermia is much more rapidly onset and cools the core 25 times faster due to waters excellent conduction factor.  Also, most non-mentally and/or physically prepared individuals can swim approximately a half mile in 50° F water.  Water colder than 45° F can bring on hypothermia in less than an hour.  Wearing clothes will help insulate you when in the water, however will contribute to hypothermia once you emerge from the water.  You must have a plan to deal with this. I make my own recommendation (see below). However you need to evaluate your own circumstance and exercise good tactical judgment.

Lastly, you should know the rough guidelines for new clear ice minimum safe thickness.  To obtain this information, check with your local Department of Natural Resources (DNR).  According to the Minnesota DNR, you need approximately 4 inches of ice for safe individual on-foot travel and anything under 2 inches is considered highly unsafe.

Scenario:

For what ever the reason may be “we” are unable to G.O.O.D. to “our” retreat and are now forced to evacuate “ourselves”  and possibly “our family” on foot.  By choosing to do so, many of “us” are forced to navigate multiple river crossings.  “We‘ve” chosen to avoid bridges, knowing that there often immediately overwhelmed and/or under a controlling force due to there natural design and choking nature.

Non-Fordable Deep Open Water River Crossing

Step 1.
Assemble the following into a convenient carry case:  (Multiple Inflatable Inner Tubes, Patch Kit, 55-Gallon Barrel Liner Bags or Heavy Duty Trash Bags, and Compact Manual Bicycle Pump.)  The following should be readily available:  (550 Parachute Cord, Duct Tape, Knife, Topographical Maps, Camper’s Towel, and Binoculars or Monocular.)

Step 2.
Designate and review a primary and secondary G.O.O.D. evacuation route using a topographic map.  If available to you, consult overhead photos via open sources such as “Google Earth,” etc.  For an open water river crossing, determine a suitable launching and landing site(s).  Be sure to take into consideration both man-made and natural hazards.  This includes but is not limited to:  (Underwater Debris, Downed Trees, Damns, Docks, Boats, Wildlife, Rocks, and Chemicals.)  Be sure to take into consideration the ease and difficulties of getting in and out of the water.  An ideal landing site is preferred over a less than ideal launch site.  When choosing a landing site, begin your search by taking the width of the river and multiplying that distance by two or three lengths.  With that estimation, look that distance down river for suitable landing sites.  This approximate area should be at a forty-five / sixty degree angle down river from the launch site.  [This depends on the river’s current speed and the river’s width.] After determining your primary landing site, determine a secondary landing site approximately twenty-five feet further down river in the event of an emergency.  If multiple crossings will be needed to ferry equipment and/or persons across, ensure you have a landing site pre-determined on the same side of the river as your primary launch site following the above guidelines.  (Note: Review your topographic maps when determining your launching and landing sites, and take view of the areas with your binoculars and/or a monocular.)

Step 3.
Now that a launching and landing site have been determined; look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied that the area is relatively free of danger, begin to assemble your Flotation Aid.  The Flotation Aid consist of a inflatable inner tube with an attached makeshift cargo net made from either duct tape and/or 550 parachute cord.  Remember that noise travels farther over water than on land.

Begin by inflating an inflatable inner tube with the compact manual bicycle pump.  Once inflated, use either duct tape and/or 550 parachute cord to form a makeshift cargo net along the inside of the now inflated inner tube.  Once completed you will have successfully made your Floatation Aid.

Step 4.
Place all equipment you wish to keep dry into a 55-gallon barrel liner bag and/or heavy duty trash bag.  Next, strip down to the bare minimum amount of clothing and place into bag, along with foot wear.  Less is more!  You’ll be wet and cold!  Once across, you can dry off and get dressed in warm, dry clothes vs. having to wear cold wet clothes for an extended amount of time, and exposing yourself to a higher risk of hypothermia.  Then, attach a sheathed knife to your person to be used in the event of becoming entangled in any underwater debris, etc.  After placing all items into the bag, seal it.  Once completed, proceed to place the bag onto your Flotation Aid resting within the center area.  Ensure the bag is well balanced and not easily tipped.

Step 5.
Look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied that the area is relatively free of danger; carefully enter the water at your launch site along with your Flotation Aid.  Double check your Flotation Aid for any deficiencies.  Once satisfied, hold the Flotation Aid with one hand to assist in personal flotation and guidance.  Begin to swim down river with the current to your predetermined landing site.  In the event that you miss your original landing site proceed to your alternate and above all remain calm, control your breathing, and focus on getting to shore. 

Step 6.
Upon arrival to your predetermined landing site, beach your Flotation Aid on shore along with yourself.  Do not proceed immediately out of the water!  Look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied that the area is relatively free of danger, slowly exit the water with your Flotation Aid and move to an area of good cover.  Once ashore, remove any wet clothing your wearing and retrieve your campers towel from your equipment.  Dry yourself and proceed to dress in dry clothes.  Once dressed, again look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied, assess your condition and look for any warning signs or symptoms of hypothermia.  If need be, treat.  (NOTE:  A good quick way of raising your core temperature is by doing a few mini-jumping jacks, or by huddling over a survival candle under a poncho.)  If you chose to wear clothes during your crossing, change into dry clothes As Soon As Possible (ASAP)!  During this time, remember to have a tactical mindset in all you do.

Step 7.
Disassemble your Floatation Aid and repack.

Ice-Covered River Crossing

For ice covered river crossings extreme caution is advised!  This should be done only after much consideration; your specific climate and location will dictate these circumstances.  A key principle to remember when crossing any frozen waterway is “distribution of weight.”  When determining a crossing site, look for an area of the river that is straight and/or an area that precedes a bend.  Remember, the water is still flowing under the ice and your goal is to cross at a location where the current is slower and consistent.  However, this does not guarantee any safer ice conditions.

Step 1.
Assemble the following into a convenient carry case:  (Multiple Inflatable Inner Tubes, Patch Kit, 55-Gallon Barrel Liner Bags or Heavy Duty Trash Bags, and Compact Manual Bicycle Pump.)  The following should be readily available:  (550 Parachute Cord, Duct Tape, Knife, Topographical Maps, Campers Towel, and Binoculars or Monocular.)

Step 2.
Designate and review a primary and secondary (GOOD) evacuation route using a Topographic Map.  If available to you, consult overhead photos via open sources such as “Google Earth,” etc…  Unlike an open water crossing as described above; you’ll be choosing a suitable launching and landing site parallel to one another.  This is due to limiting your total time exposed to the dangers of the ice, along with limiting your time creating a silhouette of yourself when out in the open.

Step 3.
After entry and exits sites have been determined; look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied that the area is relatively free of danger, begin to assemble your Flotation Aid(s).  The Flotation Aid under these conditions is similar to the open water method, however you will need to inflate a second inner tube without a makeshift cargo net attached to it.

Step 4.
Place all equipment you wish to keep dry into a 55-gallon barrel liner bag and/or heavy duty trash bag.  Next, remain dressed and attach a sheathed knife to your arm and/or plan to carry it open bladed in hand to act as an ice pick during the crossing.  After placing all items into the bag, seal it.  Once completed, proceed to place the bag onto your Flotation Aid with the makeshift cargo net; resting within the center area.  Ensure the bag is well balanced and not easily tipped.  Then, secure a length of 550 parachute cord to the Flotation Aid to act as a dragline.  When completed, physically step-into the second Flotation Aid without the makeshift cargo net bringing it up to your waist.  This will catch you in the event the ice gives way and limit your exposure.  You can also crawl on your stomach with the Flotation Aid directly under you if desired or feel it necessary to redistribute your weight over a larger surface area, based upon the ice conditions.

Step 5.
Look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied that the area is relatively free of danger; double check your Flotation Aids for any deficiencies.  Once satisfied, begin your crossing.  Your pace should be slow and steady, do not stop once started unless you have no other option.  Be sure to drag the Flotation Aid with your equipment behind you at a safe distance.  In the very unfortunate event you go through the ice…  Remain calm, breath and use your knife to stab and pull yourself back up onto the ice while using your legs to kick, and continue forward to shore.

Step 6.
Once safely across; look and listen for any suspicious indicators.  If satisfied that the area is relatively free of danger, slowly move to an area of good cover.  Dry and change clothes if needed, take mental stock of your condition and check for any warning signs or symptoms of hypothermia.  If need be, treat.  During this time, remember to have a tactical mindset in all you do.

Step 7.
Disassemble your Floatation Aid and repack.

Conclusion:
If you’re unable to patch and repair your inflatable inner tubes with your patch kit, do not simply discard them.  The inner tube itself can still be used for a variety of things.  In the past, I’ve cut mine into small rubber strips and used them as tie-down strips or lashings.  The point is to be resourceful with what you have.  Just because an item no longer serves it’s original purpose doesn’t mean it can’t continue to be of significant use.

Hopefully you found this helpful, and at a very minimum, it stimulated your mind to think and be resourceful when approaching your environment.  I truly hope that TEOTWAWKI never comes, but I’m reassured due to my all hazard planning, preparedness, and tactical mindset that my family and I stand a greater chance of survival compared to the “Joneses” down the street. Take Care and God Bless!