Note from JWR:

Today we present two entries for Round 31 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 31 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

ARs as Survival Combat Weapons, by Dan in Missouri

There are a lot of varying opinions on what make up the best combat weapons for a TEOTWAWKI situation.  My group has chosen the AR-15/M4 platform as our battle rifle, and I’m going to explain the why.  For various reasons, some people have a negative opinion on the AR-15 platform, and I’ll address that as well.  Finally, I’ll show that all rifles aren’t created equal and what you need to do to any rifle to make it function like one of the best.

First, let’s look at the intended role for a battle rifle.  I believe this is an area where some people may expect too much from one rifle.  Here are our requirements along with our reasoning for each one:

Min Range – 0 Yards:
We don’t expect engagements up close and personal, but it must be planned for.  As a result, a short barrel is preferred to make navigation inside buildings and in the woods easier.   The minimum legal limit in the U.S. without dealing with NFA restrictions is 16 inches.  This is what we shoot for, with a maximum of 18 with a flash hider.  The other factor in this is weight – a light weight rifle is much easier to handle.

Max Range – 500 Yards:
This is the furthest that we expect to engage targets with our battle rifles out to.  This is largely limited to eyesight, and proper target identification.  The standard for a “marksman” by organizations such as the Appleseed shoots or manuals such as “Fred’s Guide to Becoming a Rifleman” is to be able to hit a man at 500 yards from any position, including standing.  I know this can be accomplished as I can do it, but expecting much more, especially under stress isn’t very practical.  Beyond this range, I’ll be reaching for my scoped bolt-action 308.  At this range, a 55 grain .223 round has 169 lb-ft of energy, which is more than enough energy for adequate penetration.

Rifle Caliber:
Largely due to the 500 yard max range, pistol calibers just won’t cut the mustard.  There isn’t much of an advantage for pistol caliber carbines anyway as they still must have the 16 inch barrel, most only hold 30 rounds max, and the weight savings isn’t significant.  As far as what caliber, that is strictly a matter of preference.  Obviously, more is better, but we feel the .223 is adequate for our needs.

Accuracy – 2 MOA to Max Range:
While less is better, 2 minute of angle (MOA) accuracy is all that’s required to hit a man at 500 yards.  Thankfully, almost any rifle is capable of this, even with surplus ammunition.  The AR-15 shines in accuracy as most rifles are right around 1 MOA right out of the box, so this isn’t an issue.

Large Capacity, Detachable Magazine:
It is important that the weapon have a significant amount of ammunition per magazine to minimize reloads.  Then, when reloads are required, they should be as fast as possible.  We recommend 30 round magazines, usually down-loaded to 28.  The quality of magazine is important too, but I’ll get to that later.

Reliability:
This goes without saying.  Our standard is 20,000 rounds without a failure, which the AR platform can do.

Ammo Cost and Availability:
Common calibers are critical.  Calibers commonly in use by military / law enforcement are best as you may be able to get ammunition from them.

Ease of Use:
Ergonomics are an important determination in a weapon.  If you cannot manipulate the controls quickly and easily, even with gloves on or with your hands numb from cold (or both), then you have a problem.  This is where the AR shines.  This is the major factor that knocked out our other potential candidate – the AK-47.

AR-15 Reliability History:
Most of the issues surrounding the reliability of the AR-15 weapons system were an effect of the issues surrounding the initial fielding of the weapons.  Immediately after the weapons reached combat troops in 1964, jamming issues began to be reported.  Dupont could not mass-produce the nitrocellulose-based powder to the specifications demanded by the military, so the US Government turned to the Olin Matheson Company and their nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin ball propellant.  This different propellant had two side effects – it left behind more soot, and it raised the full automatic rate of fire from 850 to 1,000 rounds per minute.  These issues caused the jamming and mis-feed issues.
The propellant issues were identified and solved, as well as changes to the buffer system and the addition of a chrome-lined chamber and barrel.  Essentially, all the reliability issues the plagued the weapon are mostly gone.  However, it is important to utilize the proper components and procedures in assembly to ensure a reliable running rifle.

The Technical Data Package (TDP):
All of the minimum military specifications on what materials, tolerances, and assembly methods are contained in what is known as the Technical Data Package (TDP).  It is interesting to note that most of the commercial rifles sold on the market do not meet these specs.  These aren’t extra things either – they are the minimum specs. 
Obviously, it’s important to choose weapons that have been constructed properly.  My personal favorite is Bravo Company (BCM).  They adhere to the TDP, and even surpass it in some areas.  They are also a great source for parts.  Colt is the only other manufacturer that meets the TDP today.  If you are curious about a rifle you already have, or one you are looking at, you can see how they all stack up here. 

Another great resource for the AR platform is M4Carbine.Net.  It is frequented by the industry professionals that know how to make the AR run like a champ.  I will warn you that if you post something that is wrong, they won’t be polite about it.  As I mentioned, these are the professionals, not the mall ninjas that frequent some bigger forums like ARF.com.

Improvements:
If you have an AR that is not built to the TDP, don’t feel bad.  I didn’t buy one that was built properly either.  The bright side is that it’s not hard to make any AR run properly – there are just a few things that need to be addressed, and most aren’t expensive.

Buffer System – Required:
The first thing to look at is the buffer.  This is the gold-colored cylinder that sits against the recoil spring in the buffer tube.  It is a tungsten-filled mass that is designed to help slow the recoil of the bolt and carrier.  The key is to run the heaviest buffer that you can without causing malfunctions, etc.  If you are running a carbine-length gas system (7”), then you should normally use an H buffer.  The buffer is denoted with an “H” on the face.  If you are using a mid-length gas system (9”), then a regular buffer is usually fine (no mark).  There are two grades of buffers above an H buffer – H2 and H3, with the H3 being heaviest.  Each buffer is around $45.

Buffer Tube Staking – Required:
The castle nut that secures the buffer tube to the rear of the receiver should be staked into place.  This is done by using a slightly dulled cold chisel to peen material from the receiver end plate into a notch on the castle nut.  Without this being done, the nut will loosen over time and allow the stock to rotate, etc.  This will eventually wear out the tube or can damage the lower receiver.  It’s an important, but basically free fix that very few manufacturers do correctly.

Gas Key Staking – Required:
The gas key is the protrusion on the top of the bolt carrier that engages the end of the gas tube.  The key is held to the carrier with two socket-head cap screws.  It is important that the gas key is staked or peened so that the screws cannot work loose over time.  Many state that Loctite is sufficient, but Loctite fails under heat, so it is a poor fix.  Mechanically locking the fasteners is the best answer.  This can be done with a slightly dulled cold chisel (what I use), or through special tools like the Michiguns MOACS.  As a result, this is another free fix.

Extractor Upgrade – Required:
One of the biggest improvements that can be made to the AR platform is to replace the spring, insert, and o-ring on the extractor.  This upgrade replaces the existing 4-coil spring and blue insert with a 5-coil spring, a black (harder) insert, and an o-ring.  This greatly increases the force of the extractor.  If you can move the extractor with your thumb, then it definitely needs upgraded.  All guns can be improved, but it is critical with guns utilizing the carbine-length gas system due to the sharper recoil impulse.  This is another inexpensive upgrade at $5.

Gas Rings – Regular Replacement:
This is an on-going check that should be performed.  It is critical that the gas rings be sealing properly to the inside of the carrier for the unlocking feature to work properly.  To test the rings, remove the bolt and carrier from the rifle.  Remove the bolt from the carrier, and clean everything.  Re-assemble the bolt to the carrier and extend the bolt.  Place the bolt and carrier assembly on end, bolt face down, so that all the weight is resting on the bolt.  If the carrier drops down on the bolt, you need new rings.  I recommend McFarland single-piece gas rings, and they can be purchased from BCM, Brownells, etc.  They aren’t expensive at $12 for a set.

Magazines – Required:
Good magazines are critical to making the AR function properly.  At this point, there are three magazine makers that I trust:

  • Magpul P-Mags – These are “plastic” magazines, that typically run between $10 and $20 each.  They are what I currently run, and I consider them the best mags on the market.  The feature I like best is the snap-on cover that keeps dirt out of the magazine as well as keeps the magazine spring pressure from widening the feed lips, etc.  These can be left loaded for very long periods with no effects.  The P-Mags are offered in regular and windowed.  The windowed allow you to see how many rounds are inside.  I use the windowed ones, but either are fine.
  • Lancer Magazines – Another “plastic” magazine.  These are basically as good as the P-Mags regarding durability and are comparable in price.  These mags are “clear” so you can see the rounds inside.  Some have argued that the enemy can see your round count too.  But if they’re close enough to count the rounds in your magazine, then you have bigger issues.
  • Aluminum [G.I. contract] Magazines with Magpul No-Tilt Followers – The follower is the critical piece of the equation.  By taking normal GI mags and installing the Magpul followers, very reliable mags can be made.  It is important to check the mags for feed lip issues, especially when left loaded.  These are the least expensive option, as most people already have the GI mags.  The followers typically run about $3 each, but can be found as little as $1 each on sale.

Lubrication – Regular Maintenance:
All firearms require lubrication to work properly, and the AR platform is no different.  Typically people have an inclination to either lube too little or way too much.  It’s better to have the weapon too wet vs. too dry, but applying lube to specific points is all that’s required:

  • Place a couple drops of lube in each of the vent holes on the side of the bolt carrier.  This will lube the bolt and bolt cam.
  • With the bolt retracted, lube the side of the receiver opposite the dust cover.
  • Lift the upper receiver off the lower, and lube the face of the hammer and the bottom of the bolt carrier.
  • If you see a shiny spot, then it is getting wear and probably needs lube.

Regarding the type of lube, almost anything will work.  I personally use MILITEC-1 and have been very satisfied with it.

Cleaning – Required in Moderation:
Many people believe that the AR-15 must be completely disassembled after shooting to clean everything.  There are also beliefs that the rifle will not function more than a couple hundred rounds without cleaning.  Both of these are false provided that you are not shooting corrosive ammunition.  Most of the regimented cleaning is a holdover from the dark days of corrosive ammunition and doesn’t apply today.  Now, all over cleaning will do is prematurely wear your gun.  Cleaning an AR-15 should take no more than 10 minutes.  If you are taking longer, then you are just wasting your time.
           

Use a chamber brush to clean the chamber and the lugs.  For the bore, I use a bore snake.  Two pulls through with your choice of cleaning solvent, and it’s clean.
           
Remove the bolt from the carrier, and clean the carbon off the cam pin slot, the inside of the carrier (chromed carriers really help here) and the bottom of the carrier.  If there is excessive carbon on the rear of the bolt, then scrape it off.  Use a toothbrush, etc. to clean the bolt lugs.
           
That’s it.  When you are re-assembling the rifle, it’s a good opportunity to check out those gas rings…
           
Regarding the frequency of cleaning – I clean about every 3,000 rounds.  Maybe a little more often if shooting a lot of Wolf or other Russian ammo, but I don’t clean often by about anyone’s standards and I have yet to have a cleaning-related malfunction.  The key is the lubrication.  If you don’t shoot that much, maybe clean once or twice a year and call it good.

Chamber Reamer – Recommended
           
It has been identified that many barrels, even from reputable manufactures such as Colt may have slightly tight chambers.  This isn’t a big deal for 99% of the rounds on the market, but if a round is made toward the upper end of the specification, it can cause malfunctions.  I have usually seen this manifest as the bolt not closing into battery fully.  Sometimes, it requires a hammer to get the bolt open again, which isn’t good, especially in a combat situation.  As a result, I recommend reaming all barrels with a 5.56 reamer from Michiguns.  It’s not cheap at $250, but it will cut many barrels.  My own reamer has been used to cut at least 10 chambers and it still looks new.  I have yet to use it on a barrel and not remove material, so I think it’s definitely a worthwhile upgrade.  This reamer does not substitute buying a 5.56 barrel in the first place. 

Bolt – Optional:

As part of the TDP, a magnetic particle inspected (MPI) bolt is required.  While all bolts will fail eventually, having a bolt that was MPI tested is a measure of security.  MPI bolts typically run between $50 and $100 depending on who is running a sale.

Maintenance and Spares:

Now that we have your AR running right, it’s important to have the parts on hand to fix any issue that may arise.  Having an entire extra rifle on hand is ideal, but most can’t afford that.  As an alternative, here are the minimum parts you should have on hand to fix common issues:
Bolt                                          $80
Extractor-Upgraded (3)            $15
Gas Rings (6)                           $24
Trigger Group                          $70
Charging Handle                      $45
Buffer                                      $45
Spring Kit                                $50

Conclusion:
The foregoing describes what it takes to make an AR-15 or M4 run properly.  I highly recommend you do further research on what options are available to customize the rifle to fit you.  Once you have added forends, stocks, lights, optics, etc. I recommend you shoot it as much as possible to prove your combination.  Nothing will identify weaknesses with your tactics and techniques or the weapon like lots of practice.

Are You Prepared for Firefighting?, by J.T.F.

Situation

– You’ve either bugged out to your bug out location (BOL)

or

– You’ve bugged in

or

– You’ve bugged out to wilderness.

or

– You’re living at your retreat because “sumpthin bad dun happened sumwhere”.

After a couple of days, you’ve settled in, you’ve set whatever level of security you can establish, you’ve started adjusting to living the primitive life.

Suddenly you smell smoke.

If you’ve bugged in – the house/apartment next door is on fire. Or the vegetation up wind from you is on fire – grass, brush, woods, whatever.

If you’ve bugged out or living at your retreat- the vegetation up wind from you is on fire – grass, brush, woods, whatever.

Have you prepared for firefighting? Is your area fire defensible?

My Background:

I’ve been a volunteer firefighter since the 4th grade. I’m 59 now. I have a two-year degree in Fire Protection and Safety. After the service I worked 8 years as a Fire Fighter/EMT on a rescue truck and have continued volunteering.

I’ve fought my share of wildfires. I’ve never fought a forest fire. Part of my degree included how to make your home fire safe and your land fire defensible.

I know that I don’t know it all. What I am suggesting you do below has proven to work.

 

For a bug-out or bug-in location, I’m a big fan of pressurized water extinguishers for most first aid Class A firefighting. You can fill them yourself and use a hand air pump to pressurize them. I also have what would be considered an “over abundance” of BC and ABC dry chemical extinguishers handy.

Here is a review of the classes of fires and the common agents/extinguishers used to fight them.

A – Ordinary combustibles – wood, fibers, plastics – can be easily extinguished by “putting the blue stuff on the red stuff” that is by applying an appropriate stream of water to the base of the fire or droplets of water into the superheated area/gasses above the fire. The latter causes the water droplets to flash to steam smothering the fire. The former cools the fuel below the point that it will burn. ABC extinguishers (generally monoammonium phosphate) can be used on Class A fires.

B – Flammable liquids/gases – gasoline, diesel, propane, natural gas – Foam systems will smother the fire. Dry chemical extinguishers work by interfering chemically with the fire. BC (sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate (purple K) or ABC extinguishers can be used. Also foam and carbon dioxide extinguishers can be used.

C – Fires in electrical equipment – electric motors, stereos, DVD/CD players, computers – once the electricity is shut off then the fire can be fought as a class A fire. If you’re not sure about whether the electricity is off – attack it with a BC or ABC rated extinguisher.

There are two other types of fires using American standards, class D and class K.

Class D fires – combustible metal – titanium, magnesium, potassium, steel, uranium, lithium, etc. Requires special and sometimes specific extinguishing agents. Water reacts with such metals by being split into Hydrogen and Oxygen. When they recombine – you get explosions etc. Explosions around fires are not good things.

Class K fires – cooking oil or fat like deep fryers – You can use class ABC extinguishers on them. You do have to be careful about not blowing burning grease all over the place; same issue with most Class B foam extinguishers. There are also specific Class K extinguishers designed to fight cooking grease fires. As I understand them, the “specially-formulated, aqueous solution of organic salts” reacts with the hot grease to form grease saponified foam. I’ve never used them. I do know of one fire where a built in Ansul system was triggered and the Class K agent worked as it should. Cooled, extinguished the fire without any flare up etc.

 

1. Make you place defensible:

You have two main areas of concern here. The first being the roofs of your buildings and the second being type/distance of defensible space you have from your buildings to the natural environment.

The simplest, easiest way to take care of your roofs is to have metal roofs. If not then tile roofs or any other roof that will not burn. If not, then uses Class C or better rated building materials. Plumbing sprinklers on the roof has been done before. I’m don’t know if roof sprinklers will help reduce the cost of fire insurance. Generally non-combustible or at the very least Class C or better rated roofs do help with insurance. YMMV.

If you can – have your space/distance from your buildings to be further away than the tallest tree at your site. Having metal roofs doesn’t help much if a burning tree crashes down thru it.

You’ll have 2 to 4 areas of space defense. The closer to the house the fewer plants, bushes etc the better. Having a sidewalk around the house keeps the grasses and weeds from growing immediately against the house. And in the hot dry parts of summer, keeps them from being an ignition point adjacent the house.

As you get further away from your house/building you’ll need to keep the amount of burnable material down as in mowing the grass, cutting branches, getting rid of scrub woody bushes etc. Also you’ll need to be aware of where you place items such as your wood piles and gasoline/diesel/propane fuel storage tanks.

I realize that some of you may have planed blackberry bushes around your house as a “natural” barrier. That’s fine – keep them pruned and green. A big pile of brown [low moisture] bushes close to the house is a fire danger.

This page goes into much better detail as well as a better explanation of what to do concerning sloping land..

2. Active Defense:

Active defense is a somewhat new idea. I’ve heard great reports about how effective it is.

One site talks about a fire prevention gel you spray on your house to defend against an active wild fire bearing down on you. A wet gel on any combustible surface including side walls will keep embers, sparks, and radiant heat from being able to start a fire.

3. Inside the house. You should have at least one medium to large ABC extinguisher (at least a 4A rating – a 4A rating on an ABC extinguisher always has a 60+BC rating). I also have four pressurized water extinguishers I keep. I always take one or two with me when I car camp.

4. It does work. An example: 20 years ago, a friend of mine asked me how he could make his place less likely to burn down from grass fires.

He implemented my suggestions:

1. Clear out all brush for at least 100 feet from home fence line and all buildings.

2. Do controlled burns around the area to help keep grass fires from his house/outbuildings.

3. Permanently plumb in some lawn sprinklers (the impact type) . Make sure the sprinkler coverage will either do the ground around the house/outbuildings and/or the sides of the house/outbuildings around your home/buildings.

4. Spend the money to purchase a pump that and water storage system that will enable all of the sprinklers to run for 45 minutes and as many 3/4″ x 100′ garden hose stands as he will have. (Tips are the straight bore type with a shut off). A local volunteer fire department had just put a 750 gpm fire truck up for sale – he bought it and put it up on blocks, built a concrete tank that took overflow from an existing windmill supplied water tank, and plumbed them all in.

His home and outbuildings all had metal roofs. Most of his outbuildings are all metal. His big barn is 100 year old wood with a tin roof.

About five years ago a county in Texas had a wildfire that burned 30,000+ acres of land. (That’s slightly more than 48 square miles).

After that happened he called me and said what I had suggested kept his home and barn from burning down. The fire burned up to and around his home and outbuildings. He said he started the sprinklers when the fire was about 500 yards away. He and his wife and 2 sons manned the garden hose sections and used them to put out spot fires while his daughter ran the pump station. He said the water supply ran out about 10 minutes after the fire had burned past. He and his sustained no injuries and lost nothing in the home area to the fire.

As part of the discussion he told me that the fire truck he had bought had three (3) 150’ 1-½ inch pre-connects, two (2) 200’ ¾ inch booster lines, and about 1,000 feet of 1” forestry hose. He said he did some hard thinking/evaluation and then plumbed the equipment in at various locations. He said that the sprinklers did a very good job of keeping everything wet while they were able to hustle to the various hose stations to be able to fight the few spot fires. He did say that if someone had not been there to start the system up they probably would have lost the big barn and maybe the house. He said he had not kept the 100 foot boundary from each building like I had suggested and that allowed some of the fire to get as close as 15 feet to some buildings. He said that from then on, he was going to keep a 200’ line. He said based on what he saw that day – for his place – a 200’ fire line would keep the place safe if no one was home. I told him about the new fire gels and he said he’d look into them. I was out that way a year ago and stopped in. I could easily become used to being treated like a King.

Please understand, what I advised my friend to do worked like it did because he took time to carefully understand the exposures/risks and took appropriate action way ahead of time. You’ll have to do the same evaluations, planning, and actions as they apply to your situation.

Guest Article: 12 Steps to Fire Proof Your Family, by The Survival Mama

Disasters can show up anytime, and leave little time in the moment of crisis to prepare with any sense of organization. The worst time to prepare is when you receive a reverse 911 call, or a knock at the door from a police officer ordering an evacuation of your home.

This list is meant for residents of a suburban area located near an undeveloped forested area. This list was put to the test during a wildfire that consumed over 4,600 acres within a five-hour period, fed by winds sustained at 55 m.p.h. and gusting to 70 m.p.h. No matter where you live, what circumstances are prompting an evacuation, or the natural disasters common for your area, preparing beforehand is key.

1.  Plan Ahead.  Receiving an order to evacuate your home, without knowing when you will be able to return is stressful. Having to make critical decisions about “what to take” and “what to leave” is unneeded stress. Taking the time before the emergency is setting up for success. If you live in an area with severe weather, plan a winter and summer evacuation list to ensure the safety and comfort of your family.

2.  5 Minute List.  Sometimes there are mere minutes to get out. If you only had 5 minutes to get out, what items are critical?
Suggestions:
Children and Pets.
Documents in the safe (emergency binder, life insurance policies, passports).
Essential clothes. (Winter wear, one change of clothes)
Essential medication.

All the items of a 5-minute list are best contained in a “bug-out” bag. Prepare a backpack for each member of the family with the essentials. Rotate each season to ensure safety and comfort.

3.  20 Minute List.  Some disasters give a bit of warning. Depending on location, wildfires can generate a few hours of warning before the fire is too close for comfort. 20 minutes should be plenty of time for a full-on evacuation of all the critical (NON-replaceable) items.

How do you decide what goes on the list without packing the entire house? This is where early planning is critical to alleviate a bit of the stress.
Suggestions:
All documents in the safe.
Current household documents.
Emergency Binder – copies of credit cards, passports, contact information and account numbers for all bills. 
Essential clothes. (Winter wear, one change of clothes)
Essential medication.
Mementos/Photos – only the ones that aren’t scanned.
Hard drive, jump [aka “thumb”] drives.
Remember: Non-replaceable!

Prepare the emergency binder beforehand. Make photocopies of all passports, social security cards and drivers licenses for the first section. The second section contains all critical accounts for banking and bill paying. Include the company name, account number, mailing address, phone number, web site and login information. With this information, you will be able to pay your bills, cancel utilities, or any other critical items while you’re unable to get back to your home.
In this technological age, if all your contacts are saved on your computer or iphone in lieu of your brain, print the critical contacts and add a section to the binder.

4.  Involve the whole family.  If you weren’t home, would your spouse or kids know what to do, what to take, and where it’s located? Is there a list posted somewhere in the house? Does everyone know where the list lives?
Is everyone’s list the same? Does your spouse have a non-negotiable item you didn’t think to add to the list? Does anyone have a new medication that’s not on the list? Would your youngest manage this kind of stressful event without a lovie or woobie or pacifier?

5.  Write it down.  Excel’s user-friendly columns are an easy place to create the 5-minute and 20-minute lists. Bottom line, it doesn’t matter if the list is fancy, or spaced evenly, or even printed. What counts is writing it down, posting it in a central location, and telling everyone where it is. Use crayon if necessary, but write it down.
A central location possibility is the inside of the pantry door. Pick a date to review it every year. A not chaotic choice is on your birthday. If there are young children in the house, their needs change rapidly as they grow, and the list may need to be updated more often than once a year. If anyone has health problems, the list will need to be updated often to reflect any medication changes.

6.  Post it.  Once the list is written down, it won’t do a bit of good if it’s sitting on the computer’s hard drive. Hit print, grab some tape, and stick it up.
The Pantry Door list is a master list. For each room containing 5-minute and 20-minute evacuation items, post that room’s items again on the back of the room’s door (i.e. in the office: household documents, hard drive). Add the item’s location to the list. Be specific enough to ensure all members of the family will be able to find the item based on the location description. Add an item description if there’s room on the list to eliminate confusion.

The more detailed the list, the less likely precious minutes will be wasted running up and down the stairs grabbing forgotten items.

7.  Share it outside your family.  What if you were out of town and your home was included in an evacuation order? Share your list with a nearby family member or friend willing to come evacuate your essentials if a disaster showed up while you were on vacation. Remind both of you before you leave.

8.  Consolidate.  Most lists contain “photos/memorabilia” with a vague sense of where everything is located. Specificity is key. Oftentimes, photos and important family items end up on a shelf to be cataloged later. Evacuation is not the time to find out boxes are half-full, overflowing, or photos are still in frames, waiting to be put away. Catalog all items falling into the “Photo/memorabilia” category. Eliminate duplicates, Eliminate items safe on the hard drive and backed-up online. Group items by date and label the boxes with large lettering, including the date. Use medium sized boxes easily carried by one person (ideally, by the weakest member of the family participating in the evacuation).

9.  Organize.  Where is everything on the 20-minute list stored? Are the items in separate rooms? In the event of a flood or other natural disaster, would they be safe? If you had to leave them, would they be safe? Can everyone find them?
When storage is tight, creativity is king. Some of the items on the evacuation list may not be in use every day, or on a regular basis. It may be tempting to store items such as photos and memorabilia on a bottom shelf, out of the way, out of sight, out of place. If possible, find an ongoing location that keeps all the items out of harm’s way for most disasters.

10.  Practice.  Once the list is complete (both the 5 and 20 minute), items are organized, and labeled, it’s time for a Dry Run. Set the timer, grab the family and see what happens. This seems silly, but it’s a critical test. Practice eliminates panic. Practicing more often (a monthly drill) will hone the skills of every member of the family, instill confidence in even the youngest member, and cut the time it takes to complete an entire evacuation.
Be prepared to take notes during or after the practice. While you practice, notice things to change, eliminate, or add.

11.  Change it.  During the Dry Run, what issues or obstacles surfaced? While you practiced, what did you notice? Are there things to add to the list? Was everything on the list where it was supposed to be? Did you complete the Dry Run as a family? What would happen if you practiced as individuals – can everyone find all the items? Did you practice with the Person you assigned in Step #7?

12.  Reorganize and Put Away.  As you’re putting things away from the Dry Run, be aware of the changes you’ve made to the list in the last step. Do things get to move around? Are they logically together? Are they easy to get to? Don’t just plan for one emergency – plan for all of them.

13. Keep It Up. As the family grows, and new items get added to the list of items, organize them as you go, catalogue them, and remember to tell all the family members where the new items are located.

At the close of each year, rotate household documents to ensure the most up-to-date items are in the evacuation location.

Consider an online backup solution for all your computer files. External hard drives can fail, and an online solution is one less item to pack in the event of an evacuation.

The best evacuation preparedness is an ongoing task. It might be easy to get complacent once the list is done and one Dry Run is completed. Practice is crucial, and ongoing practice is priceless.

With a little planning, and a lot of practice, you’ll be ready for anything nature throws you! – The Survival Mama

Product Review: Video: Backyard Food Production Systems For a Backyard or Small Farm, by Michael Z. Williamson

Backyard Food Production Systems For a Backyard or Small Farm is a great video and useful resource. Not only is it based on a lot of research, but on more than a decade of home farming in central Texas, which is certainly one of the tougher environments in America to farm in.

Very clearly narrated and demonstrated. It’s a little handheld and shaky at the beginning, which emphasized the small scale involved, but professionally filmed and edited after the intro. This is a farm for a family of four, run very efficiently and productively. It starts with a chapter on the most important aspect: Water. Subjects include collection and distribution, with some welcome attention to cleaning—often overlooked in other publications. Rainwater, gray water, well and commercial water sources are all covered, with extensive discussion of catchment and cleaning of rainwater. Ponds and catfish are mentioned, too.

The chapter on gardening covers critical issues such as shade mapping, soil types, compost production, including safe composting of human waste. The narrative is quick and clear, and mentions lots of documents, helpfully provided on Disk 2.

Rabbits. Raising and butchering rabbits—I’d recommend adding a gut hook and shears to the demonstrated method, but it’s good to learn how using just a basic knife. This section is professional and clean, but the killing and butchering of a rabbit is probably not something to show children who are not familiar with the realities of meat. Also covered is how to use the rabbit waste for compost, and the rabbits are fed off shade trees and garden waste, for a very efficient cycle.

The chapter on poultry is almost exclusively about chickens, kept free range for eggs. While chickens are certainly edible themselves, the eggs provide a much more efficient source of protein and are useful for cooking or trading. Here again, the chickens serve another purpose, eliminating ground insects and weeds and providing fertilizer.

Dogs are useful, even essential to protecting a garden from the predations of wildlife. There’s a good discussion of socializing and raising them to respect the human and keep paws off the other animals.

Perennials include fruit trees. It’s important to work with fruits that thrive in the area, not try to force commercial crops to fit. Geese make a good adjunct to an orchard, providing fertilizer and winter eggs.

The chapter on Essentials covers calorie rich foods, such as grains and tubers, natural pesticides, first aid, contour mapping and covers how to check imports (hay and other composts) for toxicity.

There are summaries at the end of each section. Each chapter has great tips on saving power and resources by nesting and stacking various plants, animals and tools to minimize waste, labor and costs.

Overall, it’s very clear. It seems a little chaotic in spots on a first viewing, but there’s a lot of inter-related information here that has to be covered. It’s worth watching several times and keeping as a reference. In all, it was very watchable, very lively, and what a good documentary and summary instructional video should be.

The second disk has the extensive documentation, references and recipes. There are sections on composting, companion planting for nitrogen fixing, acorn flour, tanning hides, soil amendments, processing of various plants for seed oils, root cellar construction, a solar food dehydrator, and various fruits that are uncommon these days, such as persimmons and pawpaws.

I highly recommend this as an overview, aid and morale booster for anyone planning to do home gardening or farming to improve their sustainment and off grid capabilities. – SurvivalBlog Editor at Large Michael Z. Williamson, author of the new science fiction novel Do Unto Others.

Economics and Investing:

“Crisis is an Opportunity”: Engineering a Global Depression to Create a Global Government

From The Telegraph: Greece reignites Europe debt woes

And Harry is so humble, too: Reid: But for Me, We’d Be in Worldwide Depression

Brett Arends: Warning: Retirement Disaster Ahead

Items from The Economatrix:

Durable Goods Orders Rise, Business Spending Cools

Stocks Fall Amid Questions About Fed Plan

Northfolk Southern 3Q Profits Soars As Shipments Rise

Gerald Celente: The Economy, Wars, What’s Next?

Night Of The Living Fed

China Ministers: Dollar Printing Out Of Control

Note from JWR:

I must address a Federal Regulation. Consider this my annual statement: Per FTC File No. P034520, I state for the record that I accept cash-paid advertising. To the best of my knowledge, as of the date of this posting, none of my advertisers have solicited me or paid me to write any reviews or endorsements, nor have they provided me any free or reduced-price gear in exchange for any reviews or endorsements.

Back to the Basics–Heating, Cooling, and Water All in One, by Mike C.

Description
A quick “how to” system that will gather air on one end, run it underground, and output it to another system that collects the moisture from it in order to produce drinking water while altering the temperature of a living structure to a level that can sustain life.  Please note that every house, landscape, and geographical location can be vastly different than the next and it’s therefore impossible to give a thorough how to, independent research must be conducted by the reader.

Introduction
Preppers have the amazing talent of separating need from want in life, and the need factor basically falls into two master categories – food and shelter.  Every other “need” need can be easily placed under one of these two headings since keeping things simple is also a prepper trait (e.g. water would fall under food even though it’s not food per se).  Overcoming the challenges of each category in the most efficient manner possible is one of the keys to survival, which is why buying the latest and greatest technology may not always be the best answer.  In fact, nature has provided a free solution to many survival dilemmas and in most cases it’s just a matter of piecing together the puzzle.  Take that same completed puzzle, wrap it in a shiny plastic housing, find a catchy name, and now it can sell for loads of money…there’s not a product out there that somehow defies the laws of nature and is original.
With these things in mind, a simple solution to keeping a structure at a suitable living temperature can be pieced together using the very basics of science and carrying a price tag ranging from extremely low to really no more than the price of a good used car.  A basic system of heating and cooling used today has an input, a temperature conversion, and an output.  Depending on the process there may be other outputs as well but most of those are based on mechanical processes and ultimately go to waste.  But what if multiple outputs could be generated and put to use in a more natural, efficient manner. See this illustration.

Gathering the Input
No matter where a retreat is set up, there will be varying temperatures, sunlight, and precipitation.  The simplest and most independent way to gather the needed input (air!) is to harness one factor and protect from the others.  In other words, a solar powered fan system with a housing to cover the actual fan components is going to be a simple solution to gathering said air.  There are many window mount, solar powered window fans on the market now and with some slight modifications these can become an air moving system.  Choosing which fan (and how many) is going to take some additional research because of the next step in the process…not to mention the actual square footage to be heated and cooled at the output level.   Calculating cubic feet per minute (CFM) against anticipated system length into the space cooled may not be everyone’s forte, so luckily there are plenty of web sites out there to assist in the process (even Sears has one) – after all, they are trying to sell an HVAC system.  While solar power is not mandatory in this case, it’s going to provide the most independent and renewable source of airflow.  The cost of solar room fans is also fairly low, and although they are not made to take a beating from the elements, once again some simple modifications in the form of a fan housing can extend their lives indefinitely.
Hiding the input is another consideration, for example four solar fans mounted in a small housing and blowing into a hole is not only interesting to any passerby but is also a direct path into your living quarters where even smoke from a fire could make life hard.  While keeping the panels themselves uncovered, it’s entirely possible to camouflage the rest of the structure – prevention is gold.

Temperature Conversion
At 4 feet below the surface of ground level at any given point in the more populous latitudes on Earth it is very likely that a constant temperature of 55-to-60 degrees Fahrenheit will be found.  The system used in this design uses that constant to cool or heat the inputted air.  There are some factors to consider in this design, especially in the long term.  Assume that a four fan system is pushing enough air into an 8 inch PVC pipe that drops 4 feet below the surface, zigzags across a 75’x75’ area (a typical backyard for example) using over 500’ of pipe and emerges at the other end with the output air.  If the air goes through too fast then it’s not given the chance to drop (or raise) to the desired level, and a lack of CFM would give off the proper temperature but only cool or heat the output area.  These are factors that have to be considered when designing the conversion area, even the thickness of the pipe.  Some other factors that are critical would be keeping it level, drainage, and making certain mold accumulation does not occur.  While this would all seem an insurmountable task, with the abundance of current technology and better yet, the qualified people in this field these are actually easily answered questions when it comes to design.  Picking out the site, having the facts about the site and designing the conversion chamber will be the easiest of the process.  Renting and running backhoe, laying pipe or venting with graveled bottoms, and attaching all the pieces together will be a bit more of a challenge.  Don’t hesitate to walk into smaller HVAC businesses and start chatting about such things, most people in this field become instantly intrigued and want to explore the possibilities.  Lastly, try and think ahead 20 years and consider what the system will have to endure, design it to last.

Drainage And Mold
The system described herein has not been tested for the long term.  A simple ditch structure with a brick tunnel might suffice in some areas while 8” pvc with drainage holes may be necessary in others.  I cannot stress the importance of preventing mold in a system that goes underground and obviously is capable of not only attracting mold spores but giving them a place to thrive.  The number one preventer in mold growth is to not have standing water. I suggest with the time we have that owners look at their chosen site for such a structure and begin some independent tests.

Output
The outputted air will carry whatever humidity there was from outside, and any accumulation that occurred while underground.  Once again, a single design cannot be expressed for the purposes of this document because of the plethora of variables.  It’s within the occupant’s bests interests to remove at least some of that humidity from the air for the sake of comfort and to convert it to drinking water.  A simple Internet search for “air well” reveals an age old design of collecting moisture from the air through the simple process of natural heat exchange.  Even the ancient condensation collectors discovered in long gone civilizations were efficient at collecting the water from the air.  A higher end design would include an actual powered unit that costs around $1,500 USD and will output at least 5 gallons a day…just have a generator on site to handle its power needs (a medium grade solar generator can easily handle this unit with power to spare).  Bear in mind that powered units will also produce a warmed air that goes above the ground temperature so that could be put into a very advantageous position for the retreat dweller.   In the event that nothing electrical is used on the output side and moisture were collected naturally then the 55-60 degrees would be enough to keep people alive, perhaps not comfortable, but ultimately only needing another 10-15 degrees to be in a good range.  Having a good way to measure hacumidity and temperature will do a person a world of good when fine tuning the system.

Conclusion
If TEOTWAWKI occurs, food and shelter and all their little subcategories will be our main concern.  If a person can dig a trench, hook a fan (or fans) on one end and on the other end enjoy the natural temperature of the earth then that person is already ahead of the game – and it beats living underground.  A few tweaks to the design might be in order depending on exact circumstances, but if a person sticks to the principles of simplicity then they are easily overcome and handled.   Perhaps one of the strongest selling points of this system is that it’s very versatile due to the fact that it can be integrated into almost any survival retreat or plan – no matter how great or small.  It can also be accomplished on a budget that is less than the average family output on dining out, or can become a professional endeavor that a person looking for a way to become self employed and all the more independent.  When a person successfully sheds the bonds of society’s “have to have” luxuries and gets back to the basics, it’s amazing what can be done.

Guest Article: Expired Medications–Are They Safe? Are They Effective? Part 2, by Cynthia J. Koelker, MD

In Part I of this series, I explained the definition of pharmaceutical expiration dates and ‘do not use beyond’ dates, and how both are determined. Additionally, I reviewed information from the Shelf Life Extension Program (SLEP) database, which led to a temporary Emergency Use Authorization in 2009, permitting the use of certain Tamiflu products (to treat H1N1 influenza) for up to an additional five years beyond the imprinted expiration date. (See Part I of this series for more information. )

Part II will examine the data regarding use of common antibiotics beyond their expiration dates.

The following is excerpted from my upcoming book, Armageddon Medicine.

Does a can of tuna go bad overnight? What about a bottle of medicine? Common sense suggests the answer is no, but is there any evidence?

The primary source of information regarding the prolonged stability of medications comes from the Shelf Life Extension Program database. Rather than discard millions of dollars worth of expired drugs stockpiled for emergency use, the U.S. federal government tested representative lots of selected medications for extended stability. These stockpiled drugs are aimed at emergency use for injuries and infections rather than chronic diseases such as diabetes, heart disease, and asthma. The most useful data for the layman is related to drugs to combat bacterial and viral infections.

Of the antibiotics tested, all passed assays for stability, potency, and appearance for at least a year beyond the original expiration date.

Of the lots tested, the following had their expiration date extended by the number of months indicated.

 

Medication Name Dosage Form Average extension in months (range)
Amoxicillin sodium Tablets 23 (22-23)
Ampicillin Capsules 49 ( 22-64)
Cephalexin Capsules 57 (28-135)
Ciprofloxacin Tablets 55 (12-142)
Doxycycline Hyclate Capsules 50 (37-66)
Erythromycin lactobionate Powder 60 (38-83)
Sulfisoxasole Tablets 56 (45-68)
Tetracycline HCl Capsules 50 (17-133)
Silver sulfadiazine Cream 57 (28-104)

A summary of the Shelf Life Extension Prorgarm (SLEP) data is available in The Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol. 95, No. 7, July 2006.

The Medical Letter, a respected professional newsletter, addressed the topic of expired medications in both 1996 and 2002. Regarding safety, they say: “The only report of human toxicity that may have been caused by chemical or physical degradation of a pharmaceutical product is renal tubular damage that was associated with use of degraded tetracycline. . . Current tetracycline preparations have been reformulated with different fillers to minimize degradation and are unlikely to have this effect.” (The Medical Letter, Vol. 44, Issue 1142, October 28, 2002.)

Liquid preparations may be much less stable, and degrade more quickly if frozen or heated. The Medical Letter advises that “Drugs in solution, particularly injectables, that have become cloudy or discolored or show signs of precipitation should not be used.” For oral medications, color changes may also be related to the dyes rather than the drugs. The primary concern pertaining to eye drops is microbial contamination once the preservative becomes ineffective.

Overall then, the concern is not regarding safety, but rather effectiveness. “Many drugs stored under reasonable conditions retain 90% of their potency for at least 5 years after the expiration date on the label, and sometimes much longer,” per The Medical Letter.

The SLEP data does not describe testing for any controlled-release antibiotics, such as Biaxin XL and Augmentin XR. Controlled-release delivery systems vary from drug to drug and would require testing not only of the medication itself, but the delivery system as well, to assure adequate drug delivery. Therefore, the regular versions of both Biaxin and Augmentin may be preferable for stockpiling. Essentially the only advantage of controlled-release antibiotics is less frequent dosing.

In the case of antibiotics, a 10-25% loss of potency over time may make little difference in treatment, and could be made up for by higher dosing in serious infections. Even now, generic medications are only required to be within 20% of the stated amount, and so the dose administered may already vary as much as 50% from one generic to another, or from pill to pill. For example, a 100 mg brand-name tablet must contain 95-105 mg of the active drug, whereas a generic of the same is permitted to have 80-125% active compound. Also, generics may not be equivalent in terms of integrity, dissolution properties, or coatings. In the case of generics, “Made in the USA” is probably preferable to those manufactured elsewhere.

To sum it all up, the good news is that most tablets and capsules are very likely safe and quite likely effective for several years beyond the printed expiration date. Using expired medications may suffice for a decade beyond the end of the world as we know it. (But what then?)

In my next post I will examine the use of other common drugs beyond their expiration date. – Cynthia J. Koelker, MD.

About The Author: Cynthia J. Koelker, MD is the author of the book 101 Ways to Save Money on Health Care. The book explains how to treat over 30 common medical conditions economically, and includes dozens of sections on treating yourself. Available for under $10 online, the book offers practical advice on treating: respiratory infections, pink eye, sore throats, nausea, diarrhea, heartburn, urinary infections, allergies, arthritis, acne, hemorrhoids, dermatitis, skin infection, lacerations, lice, carpal tunnel syndrome, warts, mental illness, asthma, COPD, depression, diabetes, enlarged prostate, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, and much more.

Dr. Koelker has recently started a new medical blog on surviving TEOTWAWKI, ArmageddonMedicine.net. She welcomes your questions, comments, and critiques.

Two Letters Re: Our Experience with a Chimney Fire

Mr. Rawles:
Regarding the reader who had the chimney fire and put it out with a 10 pound bag of baking soda:

We were told by our fire chief that some insurance companies will refuse to pay for damage done in an “undocumented” chimney fire. How do you “document” a chimney fire? You have to call the fire department, and then it becomes a matter of record. In addition, putting the fire out in the firebox does not guarantee that a smaller fire isn’t burning somewhere up in the attic or the eaves.

So you might be embarrassed, but even firefighters get chimney fires at their own houses. Far better to call the trained professionals than to risk greater damage or have your insurance company refuse to pay for the fix. – Janet S.

 

Jim-
The contributor’s chimney fire report included information about flue tiles damage and consequent repair expense. A metal chimney insert would be far less expensive and also upgrade the safety of the existing chimney. Bob

Economics and Investing:

Dollar Selloff Is Going ‘Too Far, Too Fast’: Strategist. (Thanks to Susan H. for the link.)

Greece Likely to Default Within Three Years, El-Erian Says

Seal Beach home from a price listing of $2,900,000 to selling for $900,000. Chasing the housing market down.

Could someone be expecting a market crash? Watch the smart money: Insider Selling Volume at Highest Level Ever Tracked. (Thanks to Jonathan C. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Stocks Eke Out Gains On Mixed Earnings

Consumer Confidence Rises Only Slightly in October

Steel Industry’s Outlook Gloomer on Slower Growth

Foreclosures Push Home Prices Down in Many Cities

Gold Continues to Outshine the Field

Crooks Stealing Consumable Goods: Beer & Food A sign of things to come…”A crime alert in Chesterfield [Virginia], where robbers want your food and beer — and will use violence to get them. Right now police are handling 16 investigations in which crooks snatched edible goods from homes, cars and people on the street.”

California Is Broke: 19 Reasons Why It May Be A Good Time To Leave “The unemployed in California is equivalent to the populations of Nevada, New Hampshire, and Vermont.”