Odds ‘n Sods:

Community Outraged Over Man’s 3-6 Year Sentencing in Self-Defense Case. I share their sense of outrage! From what I’ve seen, there was no crime committed. The loonie plaintiff’s history of over 60 convictions in three states was apparently kept from the jury. At this point, the New Hampshire Governor should be petitioned for a full pardon.

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Another Random Act of Culture: Christmas Food Court Flash Mob, Hallelujah Chorus

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Chris G. mentioned this article in Outdoor Life: Shoot the Breeze. “The simplest way to handle a crosswind is to relocate. Reposition directly upwind or downwind of your target, and you’ll neutralize the wind’s effect on your bullet. However, there are times, especially while hunting, when this can be impractical or impossible.”

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Simon Black over at the Sovereign Man blog nails it, when he calls the TSA’s new “We can irradiate you (and see you naked) or we can grope you” policy for what it is: a systematic desensitization to government intrusion. His post is titled: Tip of the Spear.

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Rio de Janeiro shaken by fresh gang violence. There were 15 deaths in one day. Notice that one of the photographs shows a policeman carrying a scoped FN-FAL. Things must be serious. Please pray for the city’s residents.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"For I know the thoughts that I think toward you, saith the LORD, thoughts of peace, and not of evil, to give you an expected end.

Then shall ye call upon me, and ye shall go and pray unto me, and I will hearken unto you.

And ye shall seek me, and find [me], when ye shall search for me with all your heart.

And I will be found of you, saith the LORD: and I will turn away your captivity, and I will gather you from all the nations, and from all the places whither I have driven you, saith the LORD; and I will bring you again into the place whence I caused you to be carried away captive." – Jeremiah 29:11-14

Notes from JWR:

Notes from JWR:

The Rawles Gets Your Ready Family Preparedness Course is only rarely offered at a discounted price. Until December 13th, the publisher is running a special sale. Don’t miss out on the chance to get a copy for yourself, or to give one as a Christmas gift.

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Today we present another two entries for Round 31 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 31 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Tactical Movement in a Post-TEOTWAWKI World

One of the most inevitable situations that you will find yourself in a WTSHTF situation is moving across a landscape of some kind. In the Army we always move with a “battle buddy” and of course a weapon. As I suggest both, this is not always the case. Having someone to help you and watch your back is great, especially if they are military trained. In a WTSHTF scenario, a weapon (with ammo) is priceless. What else is priceless is the knowledge of how to keep yourself alive. We will explore each avenue and its risks.

The first part of no-foot movement is being prepared for movement beforehand. Things such as food, water, weapons, ammo and rest. Rest may seem not so important but when going the distance it’s best to be well rested. They give us a rest day the day before a physical training (PT) test in the Army, this is no different. Your life may depend on having a “full tank”. My sergeants may deprive me of sleep from time to time but allow us to be fully rested before a long movement. You should not even attempt a movement without the things listed above, especially water. Never scrimp on water. Dehydration is your worst enemy. When dehydrated you become lethargic and not at peak readiness. Remember that if you are thirsty, you are already dehydrated.

Food with a high calorie count and a good amount of protein is also a must. When in long distance movement you burn plenty of calories, especially if carrying a load on your back. In basic training they were easily marching us six miles a day in full battle rattle with IBA and a 40 pound loaded rucksack. Even eating calorie-packed MREs with thousands of calories I was losing weight rapidly. When on long movements you are asking a lot of your body, you must give it what it needs. Which are food, water and rest. Each adult per day will need a minimum of two quarts on a long haul. This is water you must take with you, not get from a stream you might find along the way. Also remember that parasites live in water sources. So filter it or boil it first before drinking. When planning for your movement remember to pack light. Unless you plan on a permanent move from place to place you’ll want to take just what you’ll need.

When preparing for movement you must also be prepared for Mother Nature. If the weather turns nasty you better have some wet weather gear for the downpour. Depending on your location weather can change rapidly. What was mild weather can turn freezing cold in a matter of a few hours. Items such as polypros or even long underwear can mean the difference between life and death by pneumonia. Trust me pneumonia is not fun even with good medical treatment. Imagine life after WTSHTF where antibiotics are not so easy to find. Save yourself some trouble and pack for preparedness sake. Along with your polypros you will need overnight shelter on multi-day trips. Do not assume you will just “rough it” under the stars. Unless you have a watertight Gore-Tex sleeping bag I suggest a pup tent, preferably something that doesn’t stick out like pink or orange. Olive drab green tents are readily available and priceless in a situation where keeping your head down is best. When having your little camp out make sure that an armed member of your group is always on watch. The best time to attack is when your prey is asleep. It is up to you whether you want to make alarms such as tin cans hung in a group attached to a tripwire made of 550 cord. But always have a guard on watch. If you group is quite large I would suggest two. Yes, battle buddies again. Keep your camp quiet and fire free. You can see a fire miles away. Keep flashlight usage to an absolute minimum.

So you need to move across some terrain alone? Don’t move alone. I need to affirm that into you. Battle buddies are best. Well according to this scenario, you have no choice but to go all Lone Ranger, no Tonto here. Moving alone is the easiest and quite dangerous. The bright side is you only have to worry about your actions and sounds produced by those actions. The bad side is it’s just you. If it goes bad it could go really bad. So while moving alone you need form an objective, then stick to it. Do not deviate from your objective. Doing so may end your journey badly. While moving watch your feet and their placement closely, but you must keep situational awareness high. Keep your weapon at the “near ready” position. Near ready position means keep it slung in front of you with the buttstock lightly pressed to the area between your shoulder and pectoral muscle. You then keep your weapon slightly elevated making it easier to put someone in your sights quickly. Keep your footsteps light and refrain from running or moving quickly. Taking your time will allow you to scan your environment for problems. Don’t forget there will be people in the WTSHTF time that are scum and won’t think twice about killing you all by yourself out there and then taking what they want. Be very careful.

Like I said moving with a battle buddy is preferable, but a small group can be a good thing. You may make more noise and be more easily seen but you may look like too big or dangerous to attack.  In moving from one location to another it is usually best to take the shortest route. Taking the shortest route can result in a very bad situation. If you have to make your journey longer, even over rougher terrain, it will be worth it. In the Army we never take the path of least resistance because the bad guys prey on the weak and easy targets. Try to go around questionable areas if able. When in movement your group will need a person at “point” to be the first to see any danger. The point man should have a reliable weapon with a scope or at least a pair of binoculars.  You will also need a person in the rear to watch for people stalking your group. Everyone after the point man should be staggered with 3 to 5 meter intervals. If it’s just you and a battle buddy keep 10 to 15 feet between you. Why, you may ask? Some people will shoot first and rob your dead body later. It is better to space yourselves out to reduce the risk of more causalities.

If you have an unusually large group, try to stagger yourselves in two lines with the same spacing, a column formation. Keeping your intervals is very important. I’m not sure how many times I’ve been corrected by my sergeants to “maintain proper intervals”. Keeping your intervals will space out your enemies’ targets and allows the unengaged rear part of your formation to swing around, move forward in a line and engage the enemy. Now I’m sure not everyone in your group will be as armed as a US soldier on a patrol in a hostile area. That means you need to space out the people with weapons into the group. Now I know you’d want to put all of the firepower in the front but please resist this urge. The spacing should be 40/20/40. Which means 40% of your firepower in front, 40% in the rear and 20% in the middle. Don’t have that much weaponry? Just make it 50/50 then.  Make sure that you have a good marksman in the front with a weapon that carries some distance, with accuracy.

When moving in a group and trying to evade detection, I do not recommend either Wedge or V formations as they are tactical formations used to cover a wider area to lay down fire. As survival may hinge on evading detection I suggest Line formation for groups of 3 to 4, and Column formation for 5 or more.

As the US Army does during movement through hostile terrain, Noise, Trash and Light discipline needs to be maintained. Noise discipline is basically staying quiet. No unnecessary talking, radio communication or other noises that rouse interest to your party. Again, watch your foot noise. Have the choice between dry brush and leaves or a rocky area it’s a no brainer which will cause less noise.

Trash discipline is important if you will be in movement for a long period and don’t want anyone to know that you’ve been there. Trash left behind will tell them how many people are in your party and other intel. Such intel can give ages and experience. For example: if the coffee from your MRE is not used this will tell them that the previous owner was probably a younger person, as younger people don’t consume field ration coffee. You can either take your trash with you or bury it well. Burning is not suggested as that would be breaking light and odor discipline.

Light discipline is very important at night. While I do suggest movement at night, light should only be used sparingly and under concealment. While in a hostile environment no fires. It may be tempting to start a fire, especially in a colder location. A fire will blind you from movement as your eyes will not be adjusted to the darkness. They have the perfect opportunity to sneak up on you and take what they want by force. If you want heat I suggest heating packs or heating pouches from an MRE. Be careful with the MRE heater, they can really burn you.

When you have a small group it is plausible to sleep during the day in shifts, in trees if available. During the Vietnam war, Army and Marine recon units, would sometimes sleep in the trees and move at night. These brave men, hopelessly outnumbered, would watch as massive numbers of NVA would walk under them. If you have to walk a long distance this might be optimal while in a wooded location. In an urban location you can bed down for the day taking shelter in a semi-truck trailer, rail cars or anything out of the way from people you’d rather not meet. When moving in a group it is massively important that you not split up. If engaged larger numbers will always help you. Onesies twosies are easier to be picked off. In a WTSHTF world people will do anything, lures and bait are not unheard of. The Taliban in Afghanistan use them all the time to get coalition forces where they want them. People use ingenious methods to attract prey, and never forget that’s what you are to them. A child all alone in a strange place may seem to be a horrible thing, but she could just be a lure to bring you in. As horrible as it seems you may have to ignore such things to keep your group alive. Following these simple steps will make the different between getting to where you are going and winding up murdered, stripped of valuables and left to the wild for predation.

The Boy Scouts and You, by Eagle Scout

What’s a great program that’s been around for 100 years and teaches self-reliance, outdoor skills and citizenship? The Boy Scouts of America of course!

I joined the Cub Scouts in the 2nd grade. In 5th grade I graduated to the Boy Scouts. I was no longer a “cubby”. I had joined the big boys. I then spent the next 7 years in the Scouting program before achieving the rank of Eagle Scout and turning 18 years old.

A little history into the Scouting program…

Founded in England in 1907 by Robert Baden-Powell, Scouting sprang from Baden-Powell’s time in the Boer Wars in Africa. Upon returning to England, Baden-Powell wrote several scouting guides for boys and took a collection of boys on a weeklong trip to Brownsea Island. In 1909 Chicago publisher W. D. Boyce was visiting London when he became lost in the fog. According to legend a local Boy Scout led Boyce to his destination. Upon arriving Boyce tried to pay the young man for his service. The boy answered that he was a Scout and that his service did not require payment for he was doing a good deed. W. D. Boyce returned to America and established the Boy Scouts of America. From these roots scouting has taken off around the world. The United States leads the world 9,500,000 registered scouts.

What are the ranks and how do they work?

Because I am long in the tooth (being 20 years old) I will only cover the Boy Scout ranks (not in depth) and not Cub Scout ranks (needless to say the methodology is similar).

First you start with the ‘Scout’ rank. You must recite, from memory, the Scout Oath, Law, Slogan and Motto along with several other rudimentary Scouting skills.

Next is the ‘Tenderfoot’ rank. Now we began to get into physical fitness, outdoor skills, first aid and citizenship. The Scout may also hold a leadership position possibly within the troop, but more likely within the patrol.

After that is the ‘Second Class’ rank. These requirements are more advanced than Tenderfoot and add to the Scout’s knowledge. They include knots, more first aid and hiking.

‘First Class’ rank. This is the first major milestone in a Scout’s career. The First Class rank requires a Scout to demonstrate leadership in the troop and cooking/nutrition come into play also. My former scoutmaster told me that this rank marks the beginning of turning a boy into a man. More leadership will be required of the Scout in the future and now the said Scout gets to help younger Scouts advance.

The ‘Star Scout’. The Star Scout now must focus his efforts on completing merit badges in order to advance. (NOTE: It has been my experience that this is the hardest rank to achieve as boys are now entering high school and find that Scouting isn’t “cool” anymore).

The ‘Life Scout’ rank. Now the Scout will have leadership duties in the Troop as well as the patrol. He must do community service as well as more merit badges.

Eagle Scout. The Scout has achieved the highest rank of Scouting. Only ~3% of boys who start the Scouting program achieve this rank. The Scout has planned and executed a service project that benefits his community. He has also earned at least 21 merit badges. He has set himself above his peers in dedication, perseverance, and citizenship. 

So what will my kid learn in Scouting?

The list of skills that are taught (and hopefully learned) is numerous.
Outdoor skills: Learn to identify plants and animals. Orienteering skills both at night and over distances. Lashing and structure making, that is making useful camp items out of rope and poles. Cooking skills! He will learn how to buy food on a budget, cook it on a gas stove or campfire, and how to clean up. He will learn hiking and swimming skills plus many more skills that are useful to a prepper! Without going into all the merit badges (there are 128), each one advances a Scout’s knowledge in each area. He can learn to shoot .22’s, archery skills, backpacking, horsemanship and citizenship to name a few! The Scout has quite the plethora of options. He will also develop a love for his community, country and God along the way to Eagle Scout.

Sounds great! How can I find a troop/pack in my area?

The easiest way is a simple Google search. Search for Boy Scout council (your city). From there click the ‘join’ tab! Boy Scout troops and Cub Scout packs meet in locations such as churches, schools, Moose/Elk Lodges and other places. Troops usually meet once a week and have camping trips once a month (yes, even in the winter). An example would be my former troop. We met once a week, on Mondays, in a Moose Lodge for an hour and a half. We would start by posting the colors and reciting the Scout Oath and Law. From there we would either plan for the coming camp out or work on advancement/merit badges.

So you’ve found a local troop. Okay now go with your son and visit them during a meeting. You can either do it unannounced or arranged, your choice. Have your son join in on the activities if the Scoutmaster allows it. Observe how the boys interact with each other. Are they acting like boys? These behaviors are fine, but observe how they take instructions. Do they stop when they are supposed to? Do they listen and follow directions? Do they respect their leaders? Next, ask about going on a camp out with the troop. This will allow your son to interact better with the troop and allow you to get to know the adults better. If, by the end of the weekend, you and your son feel comfortable about joining then do it!

But wait! The Lord blessed me with daughters!

Not fear, the Girl Scouts of America are here! Founded in 1912 the Girl Scouts have been following the Scouting method for 98 years. I can’t say to much more due to lack of experience with the Girl Scouts but a simple Google search will yield lots of results.

Tips, thoughts, myths and more…

  • Not all troops are created equal. Some are big (80+ boys), some are small (15+). Find which one bests suits you.
  • Some troops are more boy-led whereas others rely more on the adults. Again the preference is yours.
  • Boy Scouting is a religious organization. ‘Reverent’ is the final point in the scout oath. Some troops are more “churchy” than others. I will say that the only way to be denied as an Eagle Scout is to declare, publicly, that you do not believe in a higher power. (But your higher power can be anything from Jehovah God, to Allah, to Mother Nature or Buddha. ) 
  • While Boy Scout regulations don’t specifically deny the wearing of fatigues, my troop has banned them. They promote a “militia” type feel. Boy Scouting is not militarily affiliated. We are not a militia. In the context of Scouting, camouflage clothes are also unsafe in the woods. You do not want camouflaged 13 year olds running around in the woods. Trust me, the last thing you need is kids who decide to be funny and hide from you.
  • At some point your son will decide that Scouting isn’t cool. You will have to decide how hard to push him back to it or decide to sever the ties to the troop. Keep in mind that sports will also promote problems if not managed well.    
  • Myth #1. Boy Scouting is for white middle-rich kids. Wrong. Boy Scouting is for all colors and classes. There should never be a monetary reason to not join! There are scholarship opportunities to pay for many things and troops always have second hand camping supplies.
  • Myth #2. Scouting is dying. Not even close to accurate! The Boy Scouts of America is celebrating its 100 anniversary this year. Also, the LDS Church is pouring vast amounts of resources into it. Scouting will be around for a long time to come!
  • Myth #3. All you do in Scouting is help old ladies across the street. False. Well okay we do help them cross the street but we also retire American Flags, help with civic activities, and do service projects. For me personally, I look forward every year to going to Willamette National Cemetery and planting American Flags on the graves of our fallen soldiers.

Some famous people who are Eagle Scouts or who were apart of Boy Scouting include: Norman Rockwell, painter. Neil Armstrong, astronaut. Clive Cussler, writer. Edgar Cunningham, earliest known African-American Eagle Scout. Gerald Ford, President. Robert McNamara, Sec. of Defense. John “Jack” Murtha, decorated Vietnam War veteran and Congressman. Steven Spielberg, director. Chuck Smith, President and CEO of AT&T. Ken Whisenhunt, Super Bowl winning coach. Jay Zeamer, Jr., Medal of Honor recipient. And there are many more!

The Boy Scouts have given me many useful skills and wonderful memories. I can start fires from scratch, traverse forests with nothing but a compass and map, and have learned to wear a uniform with pride. I have learned how to put on a skit, how to sing camp songs, and how to cook a beautiful meatloaf in a Dutch oven. The memories and friends I have made will be with me throughout my life. The most important thing I have taken from the Boy Scouts is this: Be Prepared. It’s the motto for good reason. And it’s something we need to take to heart in these tumultuous times. Godspeed.

David in Israel: Off The Grid Cooking

David in Israel Re: Off The Grid Cooking

James:
Since storage food for us is just our daily staples bought and stored in bulk we use pressure cookers for most stovetop cooking instead of a regular pot to save time and fuel. There is no reason to waste hours of fuel simmering or stewing and evaporating that heat into steam when you can keep that thermal energy in your pressure cooker and also be done in under an hour by raising the cooking temp to around 250F. I have had the chance to use a Fagor brand pressure cooker and they are nice and built to last for many years but heavy and expensive. I use an inexpensive but strong aluminum 1.5 liter Hawkins for camping, bike tours, and single servings; our Hawkins 5 liter is plenty for making quick food especially Indian curry dishes for the family from our storage supplies. We have several spare gaskets for the pressure cookers, also some spare overpressure fuses specific to the UL safety-rated Hawkins cookers. Only buy cookers that can handle 15 p.s.i. and are UL safety rated. (Most yard sale cookers made before the 1980s are potential steam bombs.)

We discontinued our propane gas service years ago and after we needed more heat for some Chinese wok cooking, I brought out my MSR XGK stove and we ended up running an experiment for nine months using our camping stoves exclusively for stove top type cooking. It worked quite well on white gas and gasoline but was touchy burning stored kerosene. After contacting MSR they replaced the flame plate on my older stove from the early 1990s, this turned the XGK into a hot clean blue flame kerosene burner. My only issue with the mostly bulletproof XGK is the learning curve for getting a good simmer flame, and that the fragile pump found on older XGK stoves should be replaced (MSR has a refurb special for $20) and the flame plate be replaced with the dished model which makes heavy fuels burn much better. I also recommend storing some denatured ethanol from the paint store to use as priming fuel, 1-2 ml is all that is needed for priming to provide a clean startup with heavy fuels. Shalom, – David in Israel

Letter Re: Shelf Reliance Storage Foods at Costco

Dear Editor,
I know that some preppers are not all that excited about this concept but here goes anyway: Costco has a “deal” right now for a four year supply of food for one person – or one year for four people, divide it as you want – for $3,000 delivered. This is only $2.05 per day to feed each adult. The food itself is all sealed inside #10 (gallon sized) cans and has a shelf life of at least 10 years – maybe 20 years. The variety in the food package is good.  Shelf Reliance in Utah is the source.  

I would like to have this message sent to out to allow families to make personal decisions on this concept. Maybe a few of them will want to share in the big order.  I have a few friends already interested in doing just that. It would be great for families in the same geographical area to make an order together. Give yourselves a gift that may soon be worth more than gold…and that is saying something these days!   Regards, Marcus B.

JWR Replies: The per-serving cost of the Shelf Reliance package is definitely competitive. I do recommend it. With some additional shopping at Costco, their package can also easily be expanded and diversified to suit your personal tastes. For example, by adding some bulk rice and beans, you can greatly extend their one year supply, very inexpensively. It is also important to stock up on essential fats and oils. My favorite for this is buying plastic bottles of olive oil, and freezing them. Frozen, they won’t go rancid and can be stored for up to six years with no discernable change in the oil’s taste or color when thawed. I describe stocking up at “Big Box” stores like Costco and Sam’s Club in the Rawles Gets Your Ready Course. (And by the way, the course is presently on sale, at a $50 discount.)

Letter Re: Constructing an Aboveground “Root Cellar” in Florida

Jim:
In regards to running a small “window” air conditioning unit off of a solar powered system, I can convey some of my experiences. I have a total of 3,160 watts of solar panel power on the roof; about 1,700 watts feeds my 24 volt DC “house” system (mostly lights, computer, entertainment system, ½ of the kitchen outlets, and the fridge) while the remaining panels are wired for a totally separate 48 volt DC water heater system. Two 2,500/5,000 (peak) watt inverters are used for each system, each “slaved” to the other of the same voltage to synchronize the alternating current frequencies and amp loads. Importantly, each inverter has “soft start” technology to “soften” the instant high amp draws from motors, compressors, etc.   I have run my small bedroom air conditioning unit (rated at 700 watts) successfully using only the solar powered system, but will only do so when the battery bank has been almost fully charged and the sun is still out. Once the sun starts going down and the air conditioning unit load gets transferred to the battery bank (capacity of about 2,100 amp-hours), I would guess that I’d have maybe 2-3 hours of operation before the inverters shut down from an undervolt condition (considering all of the other system loads; lights, fridge, etc still in use at this time).   If you wanted to run a similar sized air conditioning unit (and nothing else) continuously from only solar power/ battery banks, you’re looking at a whopping system- I’m guessing 3,500 to 4,000 watts worth of panels, and at least 5,000 amp-hours of battery bank capacity. Even at that, you’d better hope for at least 4 hour’s worth of sunlight every day.

I’m basing this “guesstimate” on my lessons learned from my 40-gallon water heater system- it draws about 4,000 watts and drains a fully charged 3,300 amp-hour battery bank (down to the 44 volt undervolt inverter alarm) after about 30 minutes of combined total usage (or about three normal showers’ worth of water heated).   The feel of a bit of freedom from the electric company makes it all worth it, but the most enlightening aspect of this whole “project” of mine towards electrical self-sufficiency has been the quantity of deep-cycle batteries needed for a system that can “get you through the night” (I have a total of 50 now, and need more!). If you are just getting started on planning your own solar project, don’t forget to add in the cost of all those batteries!  – Wayne E.

Economics and Investing:

G.G. sent this: List of Problem Banks Grows Despite Solid Net Income

Is the gold market setting up ETFs for chaos?

China, Russia Quit Dollar

The Fed QE2 Saga Continues

Items from The Economatrix:

Silver Shortages Accelerate as Wholesale Supplies Plunge  

October New Home Sales Drop 8.1%, Prices Fall  

Caterpillar Issues First Note in Chinese Currency  

Corporations Show Largest Profits In History Amidst Jobs Crisis  

Odds ‘n Sods:

What separates humans from lemmings? Not much, evidently: Fear of bridge collapse set off Cambodia stampede. The death toll was more than 350. This, by the way, isn’t an isolated incident. For example, see this article from 2006, and this one from 2004.

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John B. spotted this: Obama’s Jeffersonian Muslim Revisionist Lie.

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It is not preparedness related, but watching the Gray Eagles P-51 Mustang video put a lump in my throat. (Thanks to Steve S. for sending the link.) I would have loved to have seen some details on how the wrecked P-51 was restored. (On a related note, the Glacier Girl P-38 recovery and restoration project has fascinated me ever since I first read of it. Just recovering the damaged P-38 from beneath 260 feet of ice was a monumental project, all by itself. Warbird aficionados will enjoy the book: The Lost Squadron: A Fleet of Warplanes Locked in Ice for Fifty Years.)

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This recent news story sounds like something out of a survivalist novel: Residents not returning to town hit by Mexico drug war. It begins: “Shell casings carpet the road outside a bullet-riddled subdivision on the outskirts of this colonial town on the Rio Grande Valley, abandoned by most of the 6,000 inhabitants following a nine-month battle by warring drug cartels.” Later in the article, we read: “Farther down the road, a restaurant owner pours his own collection on the counter: casings from an M-40 grenade launcher, and .50-caliber bullets. But that probably isn’t what scares the army, which has M-40 launchers and .50-calibers of its own. It’s what lies in the municipal impound lot that is truly frightening. The burned-out remains of five crudely armored pickup trucks and SUVs, with half-inch steel plate welded over most of the windows, leaving only a narrow slit for the drug gunmen’s visibility and firing. It all looks like something out of a “Mad Max” movie. Farther outside of town lies a homemade tank that locals refer to in hushed tones as “The Monster.” “The Monster” was a 10-wheel gravel truck with a 5-yard (meter) freight box, entirely covered in 1-1/4-inch steel plate welded into the box to cover firing positions for about 10 gunmen. In the cab, the thick steel plate covered the engine, the windshield and the doors, punctuated by hinged covers for gun ports, and massive steel rams welded onto the prow of the craft.” (Our thanks to Jennifer H. for the link.) OBTW, to the best of my knowledge there is no such animal as an “M-40 grenade launcher”. I think the journalist must mean a 40mm grenade launcher–perhaps a Mk 19.)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 31 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Parabellum (Luger ) with 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP projectiles, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $249 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A copy of my “Rawles Gets You Ready” preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing, and B.) a Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.)

Round 31 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

An Adequate Bug Out Vehicle (BOV), by Ed in Kentucky

A really tough Bug Out Vehicle (BOV) can be quite expensive, and possibly beyond most people’s ability to acquire and prepare. One also needs to ask how “serious” of a BOV can he/she actually afford to buy, maintain, and insure ?

BOVs can be viewed as being on a scale of 1 to 10 .. a Yugo being perhaps a 1, and a specially designed “escape” vehicle being perhaps a 10.

It’s probably true that situations most likely to happen, can be handled by a BOV in the 4 – 6 range on that scale.

These would be some things to consider about an “adequate BOV” …

1. Can get over most debris in the roadway that presents an obstacle

2. Can get through 18″ or so of standing water on the roadway

3. Not overly vulnerable to debris in the roadway that could puncture tires

4. Provides decent security from threat by persons in or near the roadway

5. Ability to travel at least 400 miles on one fueling.

6. Can pull a heavy trailer or other load

7. Can carry a lot of gear and/or persons inside the vehicle

8. Moderate cost to purchase

9. Common enough mechanicals that parts can be acquired easily

10. A durable, proven design that has been in production for many years

11. Enough “hi-tech” to make the vehicle useful, but not so much as to make it overly vulnerable

12. Heavy chassis that will take considerable punishment

13. An outward appearance that does not attract attention, and blends into the “crowd” easily

14. Mechanically as simple as possible, using technologies that are as basic as possible.

15. Can go off-road to some extent

Although not the perfect vehicle, and probably vulnerable to EMP, I chose a used 2004 Ford E-150 van, 2-wheel drive, standard length, white in color. This one has the 5.4 L V8 engine (many thousands have been produced), the XLT interior package, privacy window glass, and very little else in the way of extras.

I chose the “window” van because it looks like thousands of others, including Church vans. It presents an appearance that is as American as apple pie. In addition, the E-150 (rather than the E-250 or E-350) is often regarded as “almost a car” rather than a “truck”, when it comes to licensing and insurance. This can save you money and make the vehicle less conspicuous. Be aware that the E-150 (even with the changes listed below) can’t carry the massive load that an E-350 carries, so don’t overload it.

This E-150 didn’t cost much to purchase used with about 90,000 miles on it, is fairly inexpensive to insure, and has a great highway safety rating by insurance companies. In one of these vans, when you are in an collision type of accident, it’s probably the other vehicle that will be seriously damaged and its occupants injured.

Other reasons I chose this vehicle .. it’s a Ford, and that name is fairly well-regarded in America these days. Also, there are so many vans like it on the road that you can easily get lost in the crowd (often a very good thing). In addition, it’s a design that goes back to 1975, with the more recent major upgrades in 1992, 1997, 2000, and 2003 (be aware that 2005 and newer Ford E-series vans have the “computerized throttle” rather than the earlier mechanical throttle setup). The fuel tank is located between the frame rails in the center of the vehicle (greatly reducing damage to the tank during a serious collision). The spare tire is located up under the van in the rear, and has a basic locking arrangement. If you’ve ever owned a van with the spare on the back door or stored inside the van, you will appreciate this feature. Also, the exhaust system is constructed of a type of steel that seems to last almost forever.

This van sits up high off the ground, has a lot of ground clearance, has a very beefy suspension, a fairly large fuel tank (36 gallons), four-wheel disc brakes (easy to service), a seriously good engine cooling system, and a large stout front bumper.

Although there is much that is “right” about the E-150 including a rear-gear ratio that promotes good fuel economy, the stock van needed beefing up. The Ford E-150 van does have its downsides, including: typical difficulty working on the engine, changing spark plugs is especially difficult, is affected by crosswinds out on the highway, marginal fuel economy, weak rear springs, so-so shocks, and a pitifully lightweight rear bumper.

These changes were made to the van, to “beef it up” some, and make it more of a BOV …

1. 1″ thick insulation panels have been placed over most of the windows, painted flat black on the outside of the insulation surface. These provide insulation against heat and cold, and make it impossible to see through that particular window. The privacy-tinted glass makes the insulation panels invisible.

2. Shelf-units were installed inside to store needed items.

3. Water is stored inside, using several 7-gallon plastic containers from Wal-Mart.

4. A “limited-slip differential” was installed, replacing the standard one. This is the best thing since sliced bread. It causes both rear wheels to drive the vehicle ahead in snow and mud conditions. A standard differential will leave you with one spinning rear wheel and the other doing nothing in these conditions. A limited-slip differential has been called “a poor man’s four-wheel drive”. It is really amazing what a difference this unit makes!

5. Replaced the standard “Load Range C” tires with mud/snow rated “Load Range E” tires. E-range tires are far more puncture-resistant, can carry much more weight, the sidewalls are much more resistant to damage, and the mud/snow tread will get you through some surprisingly rough situations.

6. Increased the load capacity of the rear leaf springs. Any E-150 needs this. Adding a leaf or two is plenty.

7. Added a couple of “spring spacers” to the front coil springs, to firm them up a bit. Replacing the front springs with heavier ones is ideal, but pricey; and an expensive front-end alignment with some modification would be needed.

8. Installed shock absorbers that actually work. In this case, Monroe truck shocks were installed. These keep the vehicle much more stable, especially improving the handling when carrying a lot of weight on board.

9. Dimmed the interior lights that come on when any door is opened. In this van the interior ceiling lights also come on when the engine is turned off … and there you are in some dangerous place, with the interior so well-lit that you make a great target. Cover the ceiling light lens with aluminum foil tape (from a home supply store), leaving enough of the lens uncovered to provide dim light when the lights come on automatically. These ceiling light fixtures also have separate switch-operated lights that can be used to brightly light the interior.

10. Replaced the standard rear bumper with a “step” bumper. This is a heavy steel bumper that sticks out about 6″ away from the rear of the van, and can fend off a fairly strong impact. It’s also a great step up into the back door, provides a trailer hitch, and looks great.

All-totaled, I have about $9,000 invested in this BOV. Although it’s not a Abrams Tank, it will probably get us through the situations that are most likely to happen.

The changes I’ve made so far are ones that seemed important .. making the van go through difficult places while carrying a load.

Other changes I’ll make later, as finances permit .. include:

1. A battery/inverter system to provide 120 volt AC power.

2. A rudimentary kitchen

3. A simple way to heat the interior safely in cold weather

4. A way to carry at least 10 more gallons of gasoline

5. A bed that doubles as a 2-person seat behind the driver’s seat

6. A Fantastic Fan (or its equivalent) in the roof.

JWR Adds: I agree that vans have considerable utility as bug out vehicles. If the van will be a “daily driver” where gas mileage is critical, then I’d recommend a two wheel drive model. But if it is only used occasionally for hauling and family vacations, then I recommend starting with a factory made four wheel drive model. (The transmission and drive shaft reliability of some 4WD conversions is suspect.) With 4WD you’ll have much better mobility off road. Also, as previously discussed in SurvivalBlog, carrying a basic set of pioneer tools (axe, shovel and pick) as well as a pair of bolt cutters may make a critical difference in off-road mobility.

Letter Re: Question on Low Oxygen Food Storage Packing

Mr. Rawles,  
I have been looking around and have found sites for procuring nitrogen packed foods as well as read your books on how to do the same.

One question keeps popping into mind is this: By using five gallon [HDPE plastic] buckets, once opened how long before the food stuffs go bad? Would it be wiser or more advantageous to pack in smaller containers to as not to risk spoilage?   I have searched your blog but have not been able to find the answer.   Thank you in advance, – James M.

JWR Replies: Your question is a valid one, and you aren’t the first to ask it. The brief answer to you question could be sententiously answered with the phrase: “Shop like Catholic families: shop at Costco.” Let me explain:

On the packaging (“producer”) side, a food container size is determined primarily by material handling time and space efficiency. On the consumer side, package size preference is determined by the size of the family. You pay much more per pound with smaller packages. (“You pay for convenience”, and “Its cheaper wholesale” are both valid expressions.)

Powdered milk, rice, beans, corn meal, wheat and other grains are less expensive to buy (per pound) in six gallon buckets for several reasons:

1.) It is generally less expensive to manufacture one 6 gallon container than it is to manufacture six one gallon containers. This is generally true, regardless of the container material, be it glass, heavy duty plastic, or steel. Consider: How much steel is there in five one-pound coffee cans, compared to one five-pound coffee cans? However, there are some containers such as plastic sacks and retort packaging foils, where the cost differential is minimal.

2.) The employee handling time required is nearly the same to fill a one-gallon container as it is to fill a six-gallon container.

3.) Labeling, handling, and inspection costs increase proportionately, as the number of containers increase.

4.) You will most likely buying your food in big plain buckets from some drab warehouse, rather than from a high overhead retail store in a prime shopping district.

5.) Most bulk-packed storage foods get to your hands with fewer middlemen worked into the pricing equation.

Also consider that it is more space efficient to ship and store foods in larger containers. (Fewer cardboard boxes, more tightly-filled trucks, and so forth.)

Now all the foregoing talk about the efficiency of large containers is well and good for large families. (Typically, Catholic and Mormon families.) But what about retired couples, widows, widowers, or young singles?

Even though most food items might cost more at the outset, someone living alone is probably better off buying food in smaller containers. That way, they are more assured that the product will be used before spoilage occurs. So, for example, instead of buying dehydrated and freeze dried foods in #10 cans (most common in the food service industry) you might instead buy them in smaller cans. (In the long term storage food industry, these smaller cans are usually the #2-1/2 size.)

For future reference, here are some of the standard American can sizes:

Can Designation Volume Liquid Content Weight
#1 Half Pint 8 Ounces
#2 Pint 16 Ounces
#2-1/2 3-1/2 Cups 30 Ounces
#3 Quart 32 Ounces
#5 7-1/3 Cups 58 Ounces
#10 13 Cups. Used for “food service” and storage food cans. 104 Ounces
#12 One Gallon 128 Ounces

Note: The #10 size cans are often mistakenly called “gallon cans” but they actually hold less than one gallon.

Other than buying smaller cans, there are various ways to get around the spoilage problem. After first breaking the seal on a large container, spoilage can be minimized via any combination of these techniques:

  • Refrigeration
  • Freezing
  • Cooking
  • Brining
  • Resealing the remaining contents in the original container. (Typically with a fresh 02 absorbing packet.)
  • Resealing the remaining contents in a Mason jar or in a smaller plastic package. (Such as with a Tillia FoodSaver, available from Safecastle and several other mail order vendors.)
  • Dehydrating. (We have got a lot of use out of our Excalibur dehydrator here at the ranch.)

As I describe in the Rawles Gets Your Ready Course, I recommend that most families stock up at “Big Box” stores like Costco and Sam’s Club, or at restaurant supply companies. There you can buy items like 25 pound sacks of beans and 50 pound sacks of rice. When you re-package grains and legumes at home in HDPE plastic buckets (made in sizes between 2-1/2 gallons and 7 gallons), you can save a tremendous amount on your storage food buying. Using a sealed mylar liner is recommended, since HDPE is gradually gas permeable. What you will save by doing it yourself will equate to putting away enough additional food that can be measured in extra months of storage food for your family. So it is well worth the effort.

One other option is volunteering at your local LDS church’s Bishop’s Storehouse dry pack cannery. People who are not LDS church members are generally welcome. (They’ve only excluded non-members during unusually frantic peaks, like just before Y2K.) You buy the bulk foods and empty cans from them. You provide the labor, and they provide the workspace and the can sealing equipment.

Letter Re: Square Foot Gardening

Hello James,  
I have not tried to start a vegetable garden yet, but am planning to this coming spring.  I’m not known for having a green thumb.  So much to read and research. But winter has officially arrived, so it looks like I’ve got some time before things thaw out!    That said, I found an interesting article that explains the benefits of Square Foot Gardening.  Looks like a great way to maximize the usable space for growing, as well as making the plants  more accessible for care and harvesting.  Plus it looks easy; on the wallet and to build.    Stay warm! – Christopher S.