"I would rather be governed by the first 100 names in the Boston phone directory than by the Harvard faculty." – William F. Buckley
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 32 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:
First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).
Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.
Round 32 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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Coupon Warrior Part 2, by GRITS (Girl Raised in the South)
I’ve learned a few tricks since writing the first part of this article on stocking up on food items and other good stuff with the help of coupons combined with sale prices. Here are some tricks that I’d like to share with you:
First, a word about ethics: The web sites will limit the number of coupons you can print. Photocopying coupons is considered coupon fraud. Each printed coupon has its own codes, and duplicates are not legal to tender. They are counterfeit. It is fair game to clip several coupons for the same item, or to use more than one computer to print them out, because they are separate and discrete coupons.
Coupon management: You can greatly expand your ability to cash in by making an effort to collect many sets of those Sunday newspaper coupon booklets. Where to get them? The most straightforward method is simply to subscribe, or buy extra Sunday papers. The couple of bucks a month per paper should pay for itself many times over.
But we’re all resourceful types, right? Okay, cheapskates. Free is better. Store coupon flyers are usually on display for the taking. You can ask friends, relatives or neighbors to save the Smart Source, Red Plum and other newspaper inserts for you. If they clip too, maybe you have a dog, and they have a baby, so you can trade Huggies coupons for the Purina.
For more adventurous souls, dumpster diving is an option. Don’t get too grossed out at the idea. It isn’t all that eewww. Recycle bins contain only paper, and the worst of it is the newsprint I get on my fingers. The newspaper distribution office closest to me has a recycle bin where the carriers discard unused papers. I visit it about once a week to loot the bodies. Is it legal? Sure, with permission. The workers in the warehouse and the delivery truck drivers have been friendly and helpful when I explain what I’m after. They’ve even scared up flyers from the warehouse when I couldn’t find them in the bin. Best check on the feelings of your local newspaper personnel before diving.
You can cruise your neighborhood when people put out their recycle bins, asking if it’s okay to take their old newspapers, of course. Sometimes fast food places or coffee shops have newspapers lying around. Ask them if the Sunday coupon section is fair game for a paying customer.
Another source is Internet coupons you can print out. These can be found through www.couponmom.com. Sometimes you can go straight to the manufacturer’s web site and find offers there, as well.
Another legitimate use of coupons is stacking. If store policy will allow it, you can combine a manufacturer’s coupon with a store coupon on the same item. For instance, the other day I bought a bag of Millstone coffee using a Publix coupon worth $1.00 from their flyer in combination with a $2.00 Millstone coupon for a savings of $3.00. However, you can’t use two of the same kind of coupon on the same item.
Let’s say you’ve collected stacks of coupon flyers, now what? They can get out of hand if you don’t organize them. Amazing how paper stacks left together reproduce in the dark. Remember the Tribbles from Star Trek? Too bad that paper doesn’t purr or cuddle.
I suggest you file the pamphlets by date. I use one of those expandable file holders with a separate file folder for each week. You can find the distribution date in itty-bitty numbers on the outside fold of the flyer. Of course, you should go through each of them, cream the coupons you expect to use soon and put them in your go-to-store file. But you would be amazed at the useful coupons for products you never thought you’d want. My suggestion is, keep them until the coupons are out of date. Why? Money makers. They pop up unexpectedly, and having them on hand is like gold.
How to access the right coupon when the sales come up? Revisit www.couponmom.com. In good ol’ Mom’s web site you will find a searchable database of coupons. With reasonable accuracy you can find out the date and type of flyer where the brand of coupon can be found. The major coupon brochures are listed, such as Smart Source, Red Plum, and Proctor & Gamble (P&G). The database is refined by geography, though there may be differences in value or availability within a region. Printable coupons can also be accessed from this site. There are other web sites that provide help in your quest as well.
Good so far? It gets better. In Mom’s web site you can find the store specials for your area, complete with coupon match-ups and estimates on savings by both price and discount percentage. In our region four grocery stores are listed, two of which were just added, along with national drug and variety store chains.
For example: When I looked up the Walgreens specials a few weeks ago, I found they offered Breathe-Rite strips in the sample size for 49 cents each. The item was tagged as Free in the database. Actually, it was much better than free, because the coupons were worth more than the product. Cha-ching! The database designated which week and which flyer offered the coupon. I clipped all seven coupons from my stash. They were worth $1.50 each, good for any size Breathe-Rite packages. I didn’t need the strips, but included them in a charity package to my church. After sales tax, each purchase netted me about 94 cents, times 7. Almost $7.00 I could apply to anything in the store.
Walgreens, you say? Isn’t that a drugstore?
Don’t overlook the drugstores for food products! CVS and Walgreens both stock a limited inventory of groceries and other products of use to preppers, beyond the expected band-aids, vitamins and drugs. Most are pricey, but both chains offer sale prices on a number of items each week. I’ve bought canned meat and instant oatmeal for half the usual retail price at CVS and Walgreens. Some products generate rebates, or “catalinas” good for the next purchase. These are advertised in the weekly store flyer as well as the previously mentioned database. There’s an art to navigating the use of the catalinas that come with the purchases, and store policies vary.
First, Walgreens. This chain does not issue special cards that qualify you for specials and track your purchases. Stealth preppers need not worry about Walgreens building a dossier on you, and you can go back and buy as many of the rebate offers as you wish, as long as you play the game according to their rules.
Recently Walgreens offered a number of items that were essentially free after the rebates. Some were Proctor & Gamble brand products, along with other manufacturers. A few were money makers. For example, I had a number of $1.00 coupons for Crest toothpaste, and the store offered a full price rebate. I paid $2.99 plus sales tax for the $3.99 item, and after paying for it, I got a voucher for $3.99, good on the next purchase at Walgreens.
Rule 1: The store only offered one rebate per purchase of a particular item, so I had to make separate transactions for each purchase of Crest.
Rule 2: Turning around and using the Procter and Gamble voucher on the same brand family product would disqualify the rebate offer on the second tube of Crest toothpaste or on Pantene shampoo, another P&G product that offered a rebate. So, when I bought a second tube of Crest with another $1.00 coupon, I again paid $2.99 for $3.99 toothpaste in a separate transaction and received a second catalina for $3.99.
Thus I had two catalinas for $3.99 to spend on Walgreens merchandise. Here’s where it gets sticky, because of restrictions.
Rule 3: Whatever you purchase with the catalinas and coupons must total more than their value before sales tax – they won’t pay you the difference.
Rule 4: I learned the hard way that at Walgreens you can’t use more coupons than items in a purchase when stacking catalinas, manufacturers’ coupons, and store coupons. I had two rebate catalinas already, so had to buy at least two items for a minimum total price of $7.98 before sales tax. It gets complicated when you have a number of coupons to apply plus the store coupons found in the weekly flyers and want to get the maximum benefit. Dried fruit at $l.00 a box or a carton of eggs if they are on sale may make up the extra items needed and still provide good value.
CVS: You need to sign up and get an Extra Care card to take advantage of their deals. When you enter the store, you can scan the card in a machine and it pops out coupons. You might get $4.00 off a $20.00 purchase, or a buck off a bag of candy. Most of them are for products I don’t want, but some have been money savers. Because the store tracks your sales, you might use caution about heavy purchases of Sudafed and other red-flag drugs and merchandise.
For a buck you can buy a “green tag” to put on your personal shopping bag. Every day you make a purchase the cashier scans the tag (remind her) and after four visits, you get a coupon for a dollar good on anything at the store. The store saves money on plastic bags and my little greenie has paid for itself many times over.
CVS offers rebates on certain items each week much as Walgreens, but they are not as restrictive as to how you use your catalinas and coupons at the checkout. However, because you are using the card and they track your purchases, if the Crest rebate offer is only good for one purchase, you can’t go back for a second deal on the same card. It’s up to you if you want to sign up for multiple cards or get them for family members.
I’ve had some nice surprises at checkout. Recently I made two separate purchases because I wanted to use the rebates from the first toward the second. Out popped an unexpected $5.00 coupon good on a $15.00 purchase! It just so happened I had enough items in the second run-through to take use it. Because I had other coupons to apply, I handed the cashier the $5.00 catalina first to make sure my purchase maxed out at over $15.00 so I could take full advantage of a huge savings.
Rite-Aid apparently offers similar deals, but I can’t advise on their ins and outs because that chain doesn’t play in our area.
Electronic coupons: They are available some places, and come up on the Coupon Mom e-mailings, but I haven’t yet had any success in accessing them for the stores in our area. This must be a Silicon Valley thing.
Here’s another example of how to stretch the cash until it screams for mercy. Last week Walgreens offered melatonin supplements for $3.00 with a full rebate in the form of a catalina. I had $2.00 coupons for the same product. So I paid $1.00 for each bottle of melatonin in separate purchases, and received a $3.00 catalina for each one, for a $2.00 profit. I paid $3.00 for three bottles of supplements, and had $9.00 worth of catalinas to spend. This week Walgreens had a sale on canned Hormel corned beef for $1.99 with a limit of two per purchase, which was a bargain price. Canned Blue Diamond almonds were priced at $2.00 each, another good special. I had two coupons for 60 cents off two cans of Blue Diamond nuts. I bought two cans of beef and four cans of almonds for my stockpile. With the $9.00 worth of catalinas and $1.20 in coupons, I paid $1.78 for the $11.98 purchase. (There is no sales tax on food or vitamin supplements in my state.) The cash outlay for the six cans of edibles plus the three bottles of Melatonin totaled $4.78 for a $30.00 full retail value.
Aggressive coupon shopping takes time and attention, but as the savings and the stacks of groceries add up, I’m finding the payoff well worth the trouble.
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Avalanche Lily’s Bedside Book Pile
Here are the current top-most items on my perpetual bedside pile:
- Grass Beyond the Mountains by Richmond P. Hobson, Jr. This is the true story of the pioneering cattlemen that settled the wilderness interior of British Columbia in the 1930s. (This is the region that lies inland from Bella Coola). It is an amazing tale of gumption and perseverance. There is lot in this book about self-sufficiency that will appeal to preppers, as well as being an exciting tale of adventure. I’ve seen that there are a couple of sequels that Jim has promised to tack on to our next Amazon order. I really enjoyed this book. From it, I learned much about the relationship between a cowboy and his horses, and I’m looking forward to reading Hobson’s other books.
- I watched Tremors
. I had no patience for this movie. This is the sort of film that dumbs down young people. The two lead characters in the movie have a good work ethic but are not refined, well educated, or morally upright men. Keep this sort of men far away from our young women. I had Jim fast-forward to Burt Gummer’s Bunker so I could see how cool that was. Then we fast-forwarded to the end just to see how it ended. Burt’s well-stocked bunker, the wonderful example of he and his wife’s teamwork and his fabulous under-lever elephant gun which finally killed one of those awful fictional monsters, were the only redeeming factors in this movie. I do not recommend it. (Gentlemen: just remember this is a woman’s perspective of a “Guy Movie”. So please, no hate mail.)
- I’m just into the first few chapters of Lucifer’s Hammer
. This is a modern classic novel by Larry Niven and Jerry Pournelle describes a full-scale societal collapse caused by a comet striking the Pacific Ocean. (The “Hammerfall.”) The beginning chapters set the stage, introducing the characters, with much foreshadowing. It is a bit of a discipline to get through it, however the storyline has the makings for some very exciting reading later on. It really upsets me when I pick up a book and find a lot of immoral behavior within its pages. Its too bad that authors feel that they have to gratuitously include it in their books. The storyline would be just as good without it. I’ll let you know how the story plays out in my column next week.
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Economics and Investing:
Senator Coburn: Control Government Spending or Face ‘Apocalyptic Pain’
Quantitative Easing 2 as Projected and Announced
After 62 Years, a First for Harlequin: A Personal Finance Book, The Frugalista Files. “Written by former Miami Herald personal finance blogger Natalie McNeal, is a diary a 34-year old attempt to pay off her credit card debt — ‘without giving up the fabulous life.'”
Items from The Economatrix:
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Odds ‘n Sods:
T. sent a picture worth a thousand words: DIY snow tires for your bike.
o o o
More dim bulbs: California banning 100-watt incandescent light bulbs. (Thanks to Yishai for the link.)
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Some weather-related news from Russia: Traditional troika back on track
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Weather news in the US: Storm in Eastern U.S. Wreaks Havoc on Travel. And, Blizzard moves from US to Canada, sowing chaos. Thankfully, most SurvivalBlog readers were well-prepared.
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“And above all these things put on charity, which is the bond of perfectness.” – Colossians 3:14 (KJV)
Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 32 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:
First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).
Second Prize: A.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $400, B.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and C.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.
Round 32 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Building a DIY Generator From Salvaged Parts, by David N. in Tennessee
I have long wanted my own generator, but a $500 and up price tag kept me from purchasing one new. After some internet searching and sleepless nights I found a good tutorial online. What I liked best about the tutorial is that Brian at epicenter has already worked out the kinks and sells the materials. I have no connection with epicenter, and the only things I have bought from them were for this project, but what dealings I have had with them were fair and honest.
A co-worker gave me an older Craftsman brand lawnmower for this project. It did not run, but with a little bartering, I had it repaired. I ordered the plate, an alternator, wiring harness, pulley, and two belts from the Epicenter web site. (Together these cost approximately $160 with shipping).
While waiting on the parts, I laid the mower on its side in the bed of my truck (being careful to keep the gas tank side up) and wedged a 2×4 between the truck bed and the mower blade to keep it from spinning while I unscrewed the blade. I did use some kerosene to loosen the nut (liquid wrench is almost pure kerosene).
I then drove to the local auto parts store to use their loan a tool program so I could get a pulley puller. The blade mount pulled off the shaft very easily, so I returned the puller and went home. On the way home I stopped by the hardware store to purchase longer bolts and spacers to not only attach the engine to the generator, but also to align the pulley on the mower to the one on the alternator. It took me a while to find the right bolt/nut/washer combo, but I got 5 bolts, 10 washers, 1 lock nut, and 4 1 inch spacers for about $15.
Once the plate arrived, I measured it and built a frame from scrap 2×4 lumber. The plate measured 12×24 so I cut two 2-ft lengths of 2×4 and two 9-inch lengths. After screwing them together, it made a perfect frame. Just because I had some, I painted the box with the leftover green paint from making a chicken tractor a few months ago.
As soon as the paint dried I screwed the plate to the box and attached the alternator. It fits just like a traditional alternator in a car. One screw fits in a whole in the plate, while a bolt fits in an adjustment slot in the plate and through the alternator the locks with a nut. To tighten the belt you loosen the bolt and move the alternator in the adjustment slot.
Next I installed the pulley on the shaft. I set in a 3/16 keyway in the shaft and pushed the pulley onto the shaft. I used a dead blow hammer to knock it flush. Be careful and think about what your doing, one side of the pulley has set screws so its longer, and I put that end toward the engine, so once I installed the alternator and the belt, it did not line up, forcing me back to the part store to get the puller to remove the pulley and put it on the opposite direction.
Once the pulley was installed and tightened, and I installed the engine. The cut outs for mounting the engine were larger than my bolt heads, so I sandwiched the plate between two large fender washers, the spacers fit on the bolts on the top of the plate raising the entire engine over the frame. This is because the shaft it much longer than the alternator shaft.
Depending on the type of alternator you use and how it’s regulated, there are different ways of connecting everything. I used an external switch and my alternator had an internal voltage regulator, so I ran a wire from the voltage regulator to the + battery terminal on the alternator, then the + terminal of the battery. I ran another wire from the second terminal on the voltage regulator to a switch that draws power from the battery. Because of this you need to have a battery to use your alternator. You have to energize the regulator to get it to produce electricity. You need a switch because if you leave the field on when you try to start it, it will put a load on your engine and it won’t crank. If your smart and get a single wire alternator with an internal voltage regulator it just wires up directly to the batteries. I would stay away from external voltage regulators as the wiring gets more complicated.
To keep things easy I paid an extra couple bucks for the wiring adapter for the alternator. You don’t have to use epicenter’s alternator or their harness, but since I would have to either buy a new one or go to the junk yard and remove one on my own I kept it simple and bought theirs.
I used their adaptor, some 14 gauge red and white wire, a 50 amp switch, some connectors, and heat shrink tubing to rig up a wiring harness that snaps in to the alternator. 6 gauge battery cables go from the battery to the alternator.
Most lawnmowers come with a safety device that you must hold in order to keep the engine running. Mine was on the handle of the lawnmower. I looked at it and decided to keep it functional rather than safety wire it closed. What I did was wire a washer to the linkage which allows me to pull it tight and loop it over the linkage bracket. That way if need to stop the engine quickly, I can just pull the washer off the bracket.
In order to use the generator, you must have a battery; this is because the voltage regulator needs to be energized to function. This generator is really just a souped-up battery charger as the alternator’s voltage regulator puts out the exact right voltage for charging car batteries. (Imagine that.)
Some other things to consider are that because lawnmowers use light flywheels, since they depend on the mass of the mower blade to idle correctly. So when choosing a pulley make sure you get a cast iron pulley with a little mass to it. You do not have to use store bought parts if you have parts at hand. I could have gotten by with using a piece of plywood as a base. If I had drilled a hole for the shaft to sit, I could have used the engine as a template to mark where to drill my mounting holes. This is a project for using your mind instead of your money to come up with a solution to a problem. I used more money than needed so I could spend less time considering solutions to problems of mismatched parts. Lastly, don’t scrimp on the belt quality, and buy more than one. If you are relying on a generator you made from your dead car then it’s a really bad day, and you probably aren’t in a position to go to the auto parts store.
I really liked doing this project, its one of my favorites I have attempted this far. I will say that using a credit card to order parts and have them shipped to my door made this a lot more fun. I could have completed this project for little cash by using donor vehicles from the junk yard, but it would have been a lot dirtier and took more thinking about how to make things fit.
The moral of that being, reading about projects is nice, but taking the next step and actually completing them is better. Nothing beats having your plan in the books before you need to start using it.
Since I cannot leave well enough alone, I plan on taking it a couple steps farther. The first major upgrade is I plan on making a little switch board to mount the throttle assembly and switch a little neater. Next I plan on converting the carburetor to run on LPG gas from bottles which will make the logistics of fuel storage safer while allowing me longer run times and faster refuels. Lawnmower engines have small tanks with limited run time, and you do not want to refuel them when they are hot. By converting to propane, I solve both problems. I also plan on making a second lawnmower alternator combo, which I want to modify into an electric welder. This is something that 4WD enthusiasts have done for years. The only reason I haven’t done so is that then I would have to learn to weld, which would lead me to more project.
Letter Re: Advice on Obtaining an FFL
Dear James,
Thank you for all that you have done for millions of us who were once asleep and unprepared! I had a question for you regarding obtaining a Federal Firearms License (FFL). I am in the process of starting some home businesses as a backstop to my “office job.” I have considered getting a FFL and Class 3 license to generate income from gun and ammo sales out of my home. Is this advisable or does this make me too “high profile?” I remember the movie Red Dawn! Thanks and I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! – Mark in Florida
JWR Replies: I have some strong reservations about getting an FFL. The biggest advantage is of course that it gives you access to modern firearms at wholesale prices. But unfortunately there are several drawbacks. First and foremost, it raises your profile, both locally and with the BATFE. Secondarily, it also makes your business premises subject to government search under some circumstances. (The last time I checked, the ATF agents were more constrained in making searches if you operate a gun business out of your home.) You will also need to keep meticulous records and the records will become government property when you eventually go out of business.
My advice is to not get an FFL but instead to specialize in selling pre-1899 guns. Buying and selling these doesn’t require a license. Nor does selling ammunition (in most jurisdictions).
Four Letters Re: Paper or Plastic? — That is the Question
Sir,
The question of how much toilet paper one must store is an important issue indeed. One thing I feel that is often overlooked, and that some readers can personally attest to is that the method of “doing your duty” can play a role in how much paper is required. I currently live in mainland China , and have for some time now. The venerable “squatty potty” is much cleaner for the user and therefore easier on the supply of precious paper. We have three children and as a whole, China does not supply paper in its restrooms, so I know how much paper we have with us and how much we need daily. Squatting, like all skills, takes some practice. Cement blocks on either side of our western “seat” may help also. This, unfortunately, is worth consideration.
I must also add that increasing dietary fiber is also important to reducing paper usage. At least that has been my experience, not that anyone wanted to know. – Jonboy in Hangzhou
The notion of needing endless cases of toilet paper in a SHTF scenario is a bit far fetched when considering the alternatives to TP that is practiced around the world.
In Asia, toilet paper is only needed sparingly as the use of a bidet sprayer is common.
I am not talking about the French separate toilet looking thing, but rather the simple sprayer that is tied into a T fitting at the water pipe that supplies water to your toilet.
The sprayers come in many colors and styles, some plastic, some fancy chrome. All however do the same thing, they spray water.
To use one, you simply lean forward and hold the sprayer behind you. Direct the spray towards your dirty parts. The force of the water will clean you 100% better than paper any day. After finished use a bit of TP to dry off. If you do it right, you will not spray water on anything but your rear. Water should not splash on your back or the floor or shoes etc.
For added cleanliness and to fight off sweat rashes in hot climates; after you clean yourself with water, apply some liquid soap to your hand and use with water to complete the job.
To clear up common misconceptions about this method, you do not touch feces with your fingers (unless you are doing it wrong with the sprayer in the first place or using the water bottle/dipper bucket method which is something else entirely)
For female use, the principle works as well. Most women in Asia wash themselves with soap and water in this manner every time they use the toilet.
Many Americans are squeamish about this method, however every American I know who has been in Asia for a decent period of time; has been converted to this method. Ask yourself this: Would I clean my dishes with wads of dry tissue paper and expect them to be clean? Of course not. So why should a part of your body that gets far dirtier be cleaned this way? You can also ask yourself, why do you wash yourself in the shower but not on the toilet?
Good hygiene is important in our day to day lives. Good hygiene in a SHTF scenario will save your life. – B.M.
Jim,
The letter about the challenge of storing enough toilet paper overlooked an important point: The diameter of a roll of toilet paper (and thus the volume of space it takes up) is not the most important consideration when stocking up–what matters most is how many sheets (and thus the total surface area) are available per roll. Some time ago I realized that rolls of the bulk packages of Member’s Mark toilet paper from Sam’s Club seemed to be depleted rather quickly at my house, and upon further examination, I realized that although the paper was rather thick, there were only 200 individual sheets per roll. So I made a point during my next trip to Sam’s Club to see what other brands of toilet paper were on sale. And what I found really surprised me.
At that time, a 36-roll multipack of Member’s Mark toilet paper was $14.98, or 41.6 cents per roll, while a 40-roll case of POM toilet paper was 18.88 for 40 rolls, or 47.2 cents per roll. However, the POM had 450 sheets per roll–more than twice as many as the Member’s Mark toilet paper–but the POM was not as thick (although in my opinion still very comfortable) so I got more than twice as much toilet paper surface area for approximately the same volume of storage space. If your readers find that their toilet paper supply diminishes more rapidly than they expect, they should probably see how many sheets they are getting per roll. I essentially doubled how long each roll of toilet paper lasts at my house simply by looking at how many sheets I’m actually getting and then switching brands accordingly.
On another note, I’ve seen comments on a couple different preparedness forums suggesting that to save on paper usage, people should use something akin to a bidet. But what these well-intentioned people don’t stop to think about is that in a grid-down situation, water will be a vital and possibly hard-to-come-by resource. I’ll take toilet paper any day over chronic thirst because I used my last potable water for something other than drinking.
Merry CHRISTmas and happy new year to you and Avalanche Lily, Jim. God bless, – Chad
Mr Rawles,
Thanks again for publishing SurvivalBlog. Rarely a day goes by that I do not learn something from the posts here. In response to D.D.L.’s “Paper or Plastic” letter, I admire D.D.L.’s out-of-the-box thinking with regards to hygiene, but I wonder what will be done with the wash water (hopefully not being dumped in a river or stream!)
While recently traveling in rural India & Nepal, I was forced to come to grips with the fact that people there simply have *no* toilet paper, and learned to do as the locals do. Here’s their solution:
An “Eastern Toilet”, as they call it, or “squat toilet”, consists of a hole in the ground (if indoors, often a porcelain fixture), a bucket, and a plastic mug with a handle, called a “dipper”. The bucket is kept full of water, either by carrying your own in, or by way of a faucet. When you’re done with your business, you hold the dipper in your right hand, fill it from the bucket, reach behind you, and simultaneously with your left hand reach between your legs. Pouring water from the dipper over your left hand, you splash a little upwards (like a bidet), and, continuing to pour the water out, use your left hand to clean the dirty area. The dipper and your right hand should never come in contact with anything dirty. Refill the dipper as needed until everything is clean, and use the same water to flush the toilet (if it’s an indoor toilet).
It must be pointed out that good hand washing practices with soap are to avoid spreading disease when using this method. Some stockpiled hand sanitizer might not be a bad idea, either. Incidentally, this method is also the reason why it is considered a grave insult to touch anyone or eat with your left hand in the Muslim & Hindu world.
The downside to this method is that it does not work well with a western toilet; a squat toilet is much cleaner, but much harder on the knees for people not used to them. – Adam W.
JWR:
After reading the article, Paper or Plastic? — That is the Question, by D.D.L., I was re-inspired to bring up this issue that I have been meaning to write about for a long time.
My wife is from the Philippines and very few people there use toilet paper. Most actually think of it as being unsanitary. Instead they prefer to use the “Tabo”, which is essentially just a small bucket that you fill up with water.
The Vu. has this description: “Called the tabo in the Philippines but known by other names in South Asia, this system is basically a jug of water, filled in a bucket or barrel or from the tap. The user raises up slightly from the toilet seat and pours water towards the small of the back where the space between the butt cheeks is. The water naturally flows down and over the skin and washes the area. In practice, although rarely talked about, the user usually puts soap on his or her fingers and washes the butt, just like everyone does in the shower and then rinses with the tabo. Of course this means touching the unclean substance in question (poo) but the hand is using soap and water so with practice it ends up clean when all is over. In the Philippines, bathrooms are wet, meaning there is usually a floor drain and a faucet on the wall, which is used to fill the vessel. The tabo is difficult for lifelong wipers to accept, but it does remove all traces of waste and associated bacteria, so should not be criticized. Anyone with a sink within arm’s reach of the toilet, and a plastic jug or jar, can try the tabo right now, with nothing to install. In rural areas, the tabo is also used for outdoor, full body bathing.”
As I told my wife, we should stock up on toilet paper, but only for bartering purposes. We’ll wait a good 2-4 weeks before starting to barter the toilet paper because by then most people will have ran out and will become very desperate. I would suggest that all Survivalblog readers obtain a tabo and practice using it. For my wife and I, it only takes one tabo full of water but we are well experienced. Beginners should first practice with a 5 gallon pail of water so they will be able to refill their tabo.
Since I grew up on toilet paper it was quite a shock for me to experience the tabo when I was in the Philippines. After learning the tabo method, I had to agree that the affected area is much cleaner after using a tabo. I would recommend that beginners try to hold the tabo in one hand while splashing water towards their rear end while somewhat slowly letting the water drain from the tabo (no need to touch the area during this first rinsing). After doing this with the first tabo (note that by now you haven’t touched any poo), I would add a little bit of soap in the hand that did the splashing and then use a second filling of the tabo to then wash the area. You may need to use more water to rinse, but this should usually be enough to clean the area. If not then you will need to work on your technique.
The other interesting thing in the Philippines is that they use small, bowl only, one-piece toilets and I frankly like them better as well because they require less water to flush. For urine you just fill up one tabo [with water] and flush it down the toilet. For poo, you may need to use a gallon or so to get it all down. See this article for a picture.
Here is another article about Tabo technique.
So I should ask, why rely on storing years of toilet paper when you should be storing or learning how to make soap? – KJP
Economics and Investing:
Jeff Gundlach: The US Economy Is A Complete Horror [Slides] (A hat tip to Yishai for the link.)
Fresh Humiliation for Eurozone as China says it will bailout debt-ridden nations. (Thanks to Jonathan C. for the link.)
Robert Kiyosaki’s commentrary: The Eye of the Recession’s Storm
Items from The Economatrix:
Bloomberg Counters Gold’s Run With Absurd, Baseless Hit Piece
Treasuries’ Worst Drop In 2010 Driven By Central Bank Sales
Top Economists Debate The Crisis: “Clinging to the Euro Will Only Prolong The Agony”
Inflation Watch:
News from England: Cost of the Weekly Shop Set to Rocket Next Year
Reader F.B. notes: “I purchase bulk whole grain for animal feed in Kuna, Idaho. I bought Bulk dried corn in January, April & August at $12 per hundred weight, but on Dec 22 it was $13 per hundred. And I bought soft white wheat. It was formerly priced at $11 per hundred. The price at my most recent purchase in December was $1 per hundred.”
Bolivia hikes gasoline prices 73 pct; protests hit.
Big Freeze Thieves Target Heating Oil As Prices Soar And Families Wait For New Supply
Odds ‘n Sods:
Reader L.M.W. mentioned a great money-saving online swap site for children’s clothes and toys.
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Coded American Civil War message in bottle deciphered. (A tip of the kepi to Richard S. for the link.)
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Also from Richard S. comes a Daily Bell link: Fitzroy McLean on Freedom, International Investing and How to Improve ‘the Space Between One’s Ears.
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Den from North Carolina flagged this news item: Converting Plastic Back to Oil. But here again, the EROEI numbers tell a tale of gross inefficiency.
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More 2012 lunacy: Tin Foil House: Russian Man Builds 2012 Doomsday Capsule
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“And this is the record, that God hath given to us eternal life, and this life is in his Son. He that hath the Son hath life; and he that hath not the Son of God hath not life. These things have I written unto you that believe on the name of the Son of God; that ye may know that ye have eternal life, and that ye may believe on the name of the Son of God.” – 1 John 5:11-13 (KJV)