Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 33 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 33 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Forever Preps – Preparations You Can Buy Once, and Have Forever, by Andrew D.

As a self-confessed budgeting fanatic, I’ve constrained my prepping budget on a monthly basis where I spend in one month what I made the previous month.  For example, I spend money in February that I earned in January, and so on.  Given the uncertain times, I never want to be “on the hook” with paying for things with “future money”. 

So confession out of the way, sometimes it’s hard to know where to start with your preparations.  I know all about the rule of 3, etc., but when it comes down to it, there really are a lot of choices.  Furthermore, when you begin to adopt a more preparedness-focused lifestyle, it can become overwhelming how many things need to be rotated on a regular basis.  Being married to a spreadsheet (and a wonderful, Godly woman), I’ve solved this problem by myself using some complex Excel functions that scan my “lists of lists” for a “Y” or “N” in the “Rotate” column, cross reference it with the “Rotation Days” column (this column contains the number of days that an item can sit before being rotated), and then adds to this information from the “Costs” column, which contains up-to-date information on the costs of the rotated item (e.g., 50 AA batteries).  This information is then compared against the dates in the “Date of Purchase” column, which is finally compared against “Today’s Date”.  All told, this allows me to open up the spreadsheet and see a forecast of items that need to be rotated, how much they cost, and when the rotation needs to occur.
But enough of that.  The title of this entry is “Forever Preps” because I enjoy making up words and also because all of this time and effort spent on rotating supplies really makes me appreciate the preps that I have that can be stored indefinitely, without ever really thinking about them again.  Please note that I’m not saying that these preps never need to be checked for damage, integrity, etc., I’m just saying that they last forever when stored and/or cared for properly.  This saves me a lot of headaches, and will probably be of great interest to like-minded preparedness readers. 

Furthermore, I’ll make the argument that one could even start preparing for the future with only Forever Preps, just because they are often the simplest and cheapest forms of preparedness available.  They are also a lot less intimidating to new preppers.  Think about this – is it easier to have a storage plan for gasoline, which has a very short shelf life, or salt, which is the quintessential Forever Prep?  Nothing is a substitute for a comprehensive plan, but this might get some people out of their desk chairs and into prep mode.

Here’s a list of my 15 favorite Forever Preps, and I’d love to hear from the readers of SurvivalBlog about their favorites as well.  Where appropriate, I’ve tried to include as much third party validation of the shelf life, and of the uses, of these Forever Preps.  Finally, of course, the assumption is made that all of these Forever Preps will be stored in the ubiquitous “cool, dry place”. 

Forever Prep #1: Salt
It’s ultra-cheap, doesn’t take up much space, and you can’t live without it.  In fact, entire wars have been fought over this now common mineral.  While most of us have enough salty foods, table salt, canned goods (tons of salt in there!) and other ways to get salt in a short-term emergency, unless you leave near a salt mine or ocean there’s no way to easily produce it by yourself if the Schumer hits the fan.  
I buy salt in solid block form (like a deer lick) and table salt in boxes (Kosher salt) or in other containers, such as the one pound canisters.  I transferred much of the table salt I’ve accumulated into glass mason jars so that moisture can’t get in and turn the granular salt into a solid block.   Some plain white rice stored in the jars will prevent this as well (and consequently will be preserved forever, although at questionable nutritive value).

By using 6 teaspoons of sugar, ½ teaspoon of salt, and 1 liter of water you can make your own emergency rehydration drink in the event you pick up a diarrhea-inducing disease or parasite.  This small step can save your life, even in a short-term disaster.  Dying of a lack of salt is not a pleasant way to go, and is sadly a grisly part of why all of those people are dying of cholera in Haiti.  Salt can also be used to sanitize instruments for surgery and a host of other applications.

For a fascinating list of about 70 other uses for common table salt, check out the Saltworks web site.  Everything from brightening your colors to removing tattoos is covered!

Forever Prep #2: Honey & Sugar
I put these two Forever Preps together because they are similarly awesome.  Everyone knows that 2500+ year old honey has been found in the Egyptian pyramids and it still flows and tastes great today.  While honey contains certain micronutrients and other retreats that sugar does not, they both are sweet, calorically-rich, and are certainly some of my favorite Forever Preps.  It’s very important to have sturdy containers for these for long term storage, such as metal 50 cal ammo boxes or the like, so that rodents don’t get into them.

What most people don’t know is that aside from being delicious, honey and sugar both have antibacterial properties can be safely used to treat wounds in emergency and everyday situations.  Emerging research is confirming what people around the world have known for a long time – sugar and honey are effective antimicrobials and can take on even the toughest antibiotic-resistant bugs.   I personally know of a doctor that worked in Haiti after the earthquake that instructed the Haitians to create a paste out of sugar, a resource plentiful in the otherwise impoverished country, to treat wounds as opposed to waiting for traditional antibiotics.  This was especially important in Haiti, where uninformed Haitians would often split a single prescription’s worth of antibiotics among family members, doing more harm than good. 

And in case you wanted more reasons to stock up on these Forever Preps, here’s a list of alternative uses for sugar, which covers everything from trapping cockroaches to removing paint residue. 

Forever Prep #3: “Dry” Bleach
This has often been covered by various sources on SurvivalBlog, but so-called “dry” bleach (pure Calcium Hypochlorite) lasts forever.  If you go a little crazy and buy two 25 lb boxes of it from a big box store, you can make a solution that can purify about 4 million gallons of water!  And, by the way, this Forever Prep is also very cheap (about $45-$50 for 25 pounds) and takes almost no storage space. 

You must store dry bleach extremely securely if you have even a remote risk of an unauthorized person gaining access to it.  A child or pet could be fatally poisoned by only a small amount of calcium hypochlorite.  You could also get sick if you don’t use it appropriately to purify water with the correct chemistry.  I store my containers in their original packaging in a metal locker, with high visibility instructions and warnings all over the inside of the locker and secured to the buckets themselves in waterproof plastic sleeves. JWR has posted the correct mixing ratios for use. (See the SurvivalBlog archives.)

And although the list is much shorter, here’s a list of 12 things you can do with bleach from Reader’s Digest.  It’s interesting to me that so far Salt, Sugar, and Bleach can all be used to prolong the life of cut flowers.  Not exactly a TEOTWAWKI priority, but hey, if the world doesn’t end at can at least be beautiful at your retreat location!

Forever Prep #4: Most Hand Tools
Unless you live in a very humid or salty environment, basic hand tools will last practically forever.  My favorite hand tools are made with all steel (e.g., Estwing) or steel and fiberglass construction.  Although often beautiful, I don’t care much for wooden handled tools simply because they are more prone to breakage.  I’m sure at least one reader will make the argument that a tool’s handle can be easily replaced if it’s broken, but remember that I don’t want any additional things to worry about, so the less prone to breakage the better.

Basic hand tools, such as a hammer, file, saw, screwdrivers, allen wrenches, crescent wrenches, pliers, and the like, can take a real beating and be useful in a myriad of ways before, during, and after a disaster.  They can help construct defensive or offensive structures, act as force multipliers in an attack, and even used in medical situations.  I know a missionary orthopedic surgeon in Africa that frequently puts a few of his all-steel woodworking tools through an autoclave sanitizer prior to operating, because in the end, a hammer is a hammer, whether you’re hammering bone or wood, and a good Estwing costs a lot less than a comparable “surgical” hammer. 

There’s really no reason not to have these crucial Forever Preps, because in addition to a practically indefinite shelf life, they are also useful in your everyday life for fixing things around the house.  I keep a big set at home, a set in the car, and a set at my retreat location.  The tools that are stored at my retreat are put away into watertight plastic storage containers and wiped down with a coating of oil before storage.  With this Forever Prep I have triple redundancy, and indefinite shelf-life. 

Forever Prep #5: Non-Perishable Skills
Yes, yes, I know.  Many skills, such as marksmanship, are perishable.  But some aren’t.  There’s a reason for the idiom, “it’s like riding a bike” – some skills really are persistent.  I’m pretty sure that now that I’ve been camping regularly for 20 years of my life, that I’ll retain some of those skills even if I don’t camp again.  I know how to sharpen a knife.  I know how to read.  I know how to cook.  I know how to dress in cold weather.  The list goes on and on.  So whenever I’m looking to acquire a new skill, either for prepping or leisure (usually both!), I try to opt for the non-perishable skills.

Learning how to garden, or learning how to care for the preps you already have (e.g., chainsaw sharpening) are likely skills that will stick with most of us for a very long time.  Even taking a basic Spanish course at a community college will leave you with some permanent knowledge.  And if you don’t know how to ride a bike, please do so, because a bike is still the most efficient form of transportation that humans have come up with yet. 

Forever Prep #6: Books
A natural follower of skills, books are another great resource that lasts forever when stored properly.  Certain books, such as first aid manuals or detailed atlases of an area, do need to be rotated every so often, but other books contain “non-perishable” knowledge.  I look at my books on country living, backwoods survival, chemistry, physics, and food preparation, and marvel about the generations of knowledge that are consolidated for me in a few square feet of space on my bookshelf. 

There is also a strong entertainment value in books, and something can be stored for all ages that will provide invaluable relief from the stress and boredom that can occur as part of a grid-down situation. 

My favorite book of all is the Good Book, which I keep extra copies of in waterproof containers for distribution in the event of an emergency.  That’s the Bread of Life I’m talking about people, and it’s ultimately far more important “charity” for your neighbors than food or water (although those are still important).  My best case scenario is being able to offer physical help in the form of food and the like, and at the same time be able to offer spiritual help in the form of a Bible.  In the words of someone wiser than me, “people have to know that you care before they can care what you know”.

Forever Prep #7: Ammo
With ammo prices going through the roof over the past decade, ammo is looking to be an excellent long-term investment for a variety of reasons.  First, my favorite, while it should be inspected periodically if it’s stored properly it can last forever.  Second, we all know that bullets will be in short supply and certainly not easily procurable in the event of a large scale disaster.  They are valuable for security, hunting, and possibly barter. 
Finally, with the continued War on Terror, whatever your political persuasions may be, the US is going to continue to need lots and lots of bullets.  Several sources (including this one from 2005) state that the US military uses over 250,000 rounds per bad guy killed in Afghanistan.  Again as of 2005, the US was using 1.8 billion rounds a year and forced to procure some ammo from our Israeli allies because domestic production can’t keep up. 
As unrest such as that presently raging in Egypt continue (which I believe will be the case), ammo will only become more and more expensive.   Buying it in quantity and buying it now is a safe bet for this vital Forever Prep.

Forever Prep #8: Gold and Silver
There are a lot of very smart people out there that can make the economic case for investing in physical gold and silver as part of your preparedness plan and general retirement portfolio.  I’m not going to do that.  I’ll just state that, unlike paper money or any other form of currency, Gold is valuable because it doesn’t tarnish, it doesn’t decompose, and it, well, lasts forever.  Silver may develop a patina over time but is otherwise also indestructible.  I don’t necessarily agree that physical Gold and Silver are the best way to go with your entire retirement budget, because, just like I like to have an edge on inflation, I also like to have a hedge on the economy doing well for the next 30 years.  But whatever your opinion on it, Gold and Silver are excellent Forever Preps because you can buy and store them little effort and their value ultimately won’t ever go away.

Forever Prep #9: Water Filters
I store water in plastic jugs with a preservative in them, but they still have to be rotated.  The great thing about purchasing a high quality water filter is that its ceramic filters are chemically inert, and unless physically damaged should last indefinitely until used.  I only have a backpacking water filter right now, but that combined with my stored water, dry bleach, and knowledge of local water sources makes me feel pretty good.  You know what else feels good?  Knowing that if I don’t touch that water filter for another 40 years it will still be in great, usable shape. 
As a caveat, please note that water filters with moving parts (e.g., most backpacking filters with a pumping action) may need to be inspected and/or lubed at some point.  My filter is gravity fed, just like the Big Berkey systems, so no moving parts = excellent Forever Prep. 

Forever Prep #10: Propane
I’m going to be totally honest here.  Most of my camping appliances are white gas (a.k.a. “Coleman Fuel”) which stores,  unopened, for about 10 years.  I’ll likely hang on to it because of its superior performance in cold weather, but I’m also looking to expand my arsenal with a host of propane devices. 
Why?  Unlike white gas, propane lasts virtually forever, and there are many indications that the price of propane is set to skyrocket with the coming economic recovery (as will all petroleum-based fuels).  Another reason the price will go up soon is because of decreasing overall demand.  Normally when demand decreases so do the prices, but I don’t think this will be the case for propane.  Propane requires some infrastructure for delivery and storage, so if demand drops sharply it may become harder and harder to procure.  It’s also an environmentally-friendly fuel, and a large number of devices can be powered by propane, including generators, heaters, golf carts, and even leaf blowers!  How great will it be to get a large propane tank (or two!) and have them stored away as a Forever Prep. 

Forever Prep #11: Baking Soda
Here’s another overlooked common household item that is useful for a ton of different things, is very cheap, and stores forever.  Baking soda’s most obvious uses to a prepper are, in my opinion:

  • Making baking powder (baking powder has a limited shelf life once mixed)
  • Fire extinguisher for grease fires or any fire, really
  • Cleaning
  • Toothpaste (works great and stores forever, unlike toothpaste!)
  • Degreasing
  • Deodorizing (nice for obvious reasons but could also have tactical value; smelly people make poor ambushers)
  • Scouring
  • Cleaning waste water pipes (flush 4 tablespoons down with hot water to clean pipes)
  • Relieving stinging and swelling from insect bites and/or Poison Ivy
  • Management of heartburn and acid reflux (1/2 teaspoon or more in ½ a glass of water)
  • When added to water baking soda will make beans softer and more digestible
  • Add to boiling water when scalding (de-feathering) a chicken to make the process easier
  • Trade or barter

Again, many extremely valuable uses from the humble baking soda.  The trick with it is to store it in an airtight container that is NOT vapor-permeable.  Glass Mason jars with the lids dipped in wax work well for this.  All plastics are at least somewhat permeable and can result in your baking soda taking on the flavor of the container or worse, other smells around the container.  I store mine in glass mason jars with the lids dipped in wax, and then I place 12-16 jars at a time into old 20mm shell cases I buy from a local GI Store.  The inside of the case I line with foam to prevent breakage. 

Forever Prep #12: Vinegar
Wow, if you thought the other Forever Preps were versatile, vinegar should also be on your list!  Vinegar for long term storage does best in glass containers, although plastic can be used as long as the container retains is original factory seal.  It can be used for cooking, preserving food, relieving sunburn, doing laundry, cleaning and more!  To list them all here would take too long, so here is a link to a list of 131 ways to use Vinegar.  Vinegar is also cheap, readily available, and fairly easy to store.

Forever Prep #13: Paraffin Candles
Most people will say that candles have an indefinite shelf life.  Well, I can tell you that assertion is patently false.  Candles have an indefinite shelf life if stored in a cool, dry place, but if they aren’t you are taking a huge gamble with your preps.  Allow me to share two examples from my own life. 
I used to have a 36 hour, wax-based “survival” candle in the back of my car with an emergency kit.  After two or three years had gone by, I went to use the candle on a camping trip and discovered that not only had the candle melted, but its contents had actually mostly evaporated and all that was left was a waxy mess and a few stumps of a wick!  Additionally, my wife and I stored candles (emergency and decorative) in a storage facility that wasn’t climate controlled.  After a few months we moved and went to retrieve them and, guess what?  The candles had all melted on to one another and ruined the box they were in.  Not exactly Forever Prep material!

After some research, I discovered the miracle of Liquid Paraffin.  It’s wax in its liquid state, so it’s already melted and placed into airtight containers so there’s no risk of it evaporating away.  You can buy it in bulk from many places online.  However, the cheapest avenue I have found is to buy bulk boxes of liquid paraffin candles from restaurant supply stores.  It’s the same candle featured in “survival” stores, but much cheaper to buy by the case.  In fact, a case of 36, 50-hour candles (a combined 1,800 hours of burn time!) can often be had for about $70-$90. 

Just do a web search for “restaurant liquid paraffin candles” and you’ll end up with a host of wholesale suppliers.  My favorite kinds have the built-in extinguisher that will snuff out the flame if the candle tips over.  Bonus tip: place a lit candle in a one quart mason jar with sand at the bottom to have a virtually windproof source of light.  If you want to get really fancy, you can include a lid with holes punched in it and use a piece of piano wire or clothes hanger as a handle.

Forever Prep #14: Paper Products (toilet paper, Ladies’ Stuff, etc.)
Easy to store (keep it dry!), cheap to buy, and completely innocuous to nosy neighbors that might find it in your basement, paper products are excellent Forever Prep material.  These are everyday items that will be impossible to find once your local store runs out of them, and there aren’t too many ready “natural” replacements for quilted toilet paper or disposable lady products.  They are also useful for a number of reasons.  For instance, Maxi-pads are usually sterile (or close enough) and can be used effectively as emergency first-aid bandages to stop heavy bleeding.  Tampons actually work really well, too, especially if you bundle several of them together.  Paper towels can be used for cleaning up messes, first aid, filtering sediment from water, fire starting, personal hygiene, makeshift coffee filters, home-made baby wipes, a skinning aid (grab slippery chicken skin with a paper towel and it’s much easier to hold on to!), a desiccant for storing herbs (wrap herbs in dry paper towels and place in the sun), etc., etc., etc.  You’ll be amazed at what you use them for in an emergency.  Paper products also make great insulators in a pinch – that’s why homeless folks are often seen with newspapers stuffed into their clothes, in order to trap more hot air around their bodies.
Here’s a list of what I store and why:

  • Toilet Paper.  Buy it on sale at a big box store.  Ever used leaves or bark?  Not fun.
  • Paper towels.  See above for more uses than you can shake a stick at.
  • Feminine hygiene products.  You have to be careful when storing the pads that have the moisture-absorbing gel in them, because moisture can seep in from the air over time, rendering them useless.  Just use the bucket method of storage, just like you would for wheat or other food stuffs.  A 5 gallon bucket with a gamma seal lid, and a thick Mylar bag inside with an oxygen absorber will make those types of pads last virtually forever.
  • Disposable baby diapers.  A big case for charity or use by my neighbors.  These also have the desiccant gel in them, so must be stored appropriately.  Remember that babies use the bathroom upwards of 10 times a day, and if you’re having an emergency that means that is a TON of washing that you won’t want to have to do.  If your prepping plans must include the care of an aging relative, buying the adult diapers en masse may also be a good idea, just in case.
  • Picnic Supplies.  Not totally paper, I know, but a good supply of paper plates, paper bowls, paper cups, and plastic utensils are essential for a short- to medium-term emergency, especially one that requires the quarantine of an infected individual.  Sure you’ll have your Forever Prep “dry” bleach to sanitize things, but wouldn’t it just be much easier to use disposables that can be incinerated or put into thick trash bags instead?  This means less contact with potential pathogens, less precious water required for cleaning and rinsing, and less time spent on cleaning, so you can attend to more important needs.

Forever Prep #15: Jesus
Talk about non-perishable!  Everlasting life?  By definition the most important Forever Prep you can get.  It’s free, lasts forever, requires no storage space, is communal, and is guaranteed to make surviving any disaster with your sanity intact a much rosier prospect.  Jesus never said that he came to make our lives easier, more comfortable, or cheaper.  He came to give us Life, and Life to the full!  What difference does it make if you survive the end of the world as we know it on earth, but haven’t prepped to meet your maker at the real and certain TEOTWAWKI – the end of your earthly existence?  Enough said.

So there you have it, my list of 15 Forever Preps.  Things you can get today that will last until you need them, no questions asked.  I hope this helps someone out there, and can spur some more ideas.   Let me know if you have some Forever Preps yourself – I’ll gladly add them to my list of lists, with a big “N” in the “Rotate” column!

Letter Re: Storing Spare Vehicle CPUs for EMP Preparedness

JWR,  
Thanks for the great blog and everything you do for us.   I was at my local Ford dealer getting some work done and ask the service manager about computer modules for my 2006 F250 diesel. He told there are three different modules; engine, fuel and transmission. I ask how much they cost and he told me “a lot” but they are fairly simple to install, basically unplug the old and plug in the new one. What he told me next I hadn’t thought about and had not read; the computer modules must be programmed to work. Also if you get one from a junkyard and plug it in it will still need to be programmed. So if anyone is thinking about getting backups for EMP events you still need to store a computer that can program the modules for newer vehicles.   Do you know if this is correct? Is there any way to remedy this problem short of buying older vehicles? I guess this is exactly why you tell us to get older vehicles! – Jim S. in Ohio

JWR Replies: In most cases the CPUs that you store can be pre-programmed to match your particular vehicle before you put them in storage. This will be a bit expensive and time consuming (requiring swaps and tests), but it sure beats storing a computer to program them, post facto!

Letter Re: You are Only as Good as Your Equipment

JWR:
I had to smile when I saw your comment about Fiskars products yesterday.  A recent experience pushed my Fiskars lopping shears (“loppers”) up to the top of my favorite tool list.

During a lull in this ridiculous winter, my kids and I cleared a small area of my land to make room for some fruit trees we’re planting this coming season.  The vast majority of the stuff we cleared was between 1″ to 2″ in diameter. It was not really big enough for firewood, but big enough that it seemed a shame to us to just waste it.  So in the space of a few hours we took my two Fiskars loppers and “lopped up” this small stuff into close to a face cord worth of small firewood or large kindling, depending on how you want to view it.

I kept thinking about OPSEC as we did this. Except for our own voices, we barely made a sound as we worked. The loppers were quieter than any saw, and in addition my seven-year old daughter could easily help using the lopper (and believe me she was thrilled to be helping) while a bow saw would have been impossible for her.

After that day I got online and ordered a bunch of replacement blades for my loppers for potential post-TEOTWAWKI use.

Thanks for your work, – F.S.

Economics and Investing:

$4 Gasoline? Definitely in California, but Maybe Not for Everyone Else

US House Prices to Continue Falling: Economist. [JWR Adds: That is, until mass inflation kicks in, and makes us all millionaires.]

Englishmen warned: House prices ‘to fall by 20%’

De Borchgrave: Mideast $400 Oil Imminent With Mideast Upheaval

John R. suggested this piece by Bob Chapman: Public debt: unsustainable and simply unpayable

Items from The Economatrix:

On-going Overnight Short Squeeze Takes Silver to Fresh 31-Year High  

Credibility Blown (The Mogambo Guru)  

Silver Bankers May Be Sitting On Big Derivatives Losses And The Fed May Be Funding Them  

Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader B.C. wrote to mention: “It has occurred to me that preparedness should also include how to cook for the crowd that shows up at TEOTWAWKI. I just came across a page with links to recipes for cooking for 20 or more people.”

   o o o

JRH Enterprises is having a sale on new third generation Pinnacle auto-gated PVS-14 night vision units. All of these have a adjustable gain and a five year warranty.  The standard Gen 3 unit is now on sale for $2,895. And for the first time JRH is putting on sale their upgraded (Gen 3+) version of the PVS-14 for $3,275. (I have one of the latter here at the ranch, and I love it. With a Picatinny rail mount adapter it is very versatile–I can use it both as a weapon sight and as a monocular.

   o o o

I’m scheduled for a one hour interview with Michael Ruppert’s Lifeboat Hour radio show at 9 p.m. eastern time Sunday, February 27th. Please feel free to call in to the show if you have any preparedness questions that would be of interest to the majority of listeners. It will also be available post facto as a downloadable podcast.

   o o o

STRATFOR analysis: Mexico’s Gun Supply and the 90 Percent Myth

   o o o

Bill Buppert recently posted a review of the Leatherman MUT tool, over at his ZeroGov blog. (OBTW, Bill has an interesting collection of famous oratory video clips at his site.)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 33 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 33 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Dairy Goats 101, by Country Lady

For those of you on your retreat property and wanting to add sustainability to your food supply, I present this article to give you an overview of goat-keeping.  Why choose goats?  The advantages of goats are manifold:

• Goats are smaller, therefore require less feed, space and fencing than a cow.

• Goat milk is less allergenic and more closely resembles human milk than cow milk.

• Dairy goats typically produce two quarts to a gallon of milk per day – a usable amount for a family, especially if no refrigeration is available.

• Goats kid (give birth) five months after breeding, so you can have a year-round supply of milk and meat fairly easily and inexpensively. 

• Goat manure comes in convenient pellets – much easier to clean up and use for compost or mulch than cow pies.

How to Choose Your Dairy Goat
Let’s start with breed selection.  There may be a certain breed prominent in your area, they may do better in your climate or just be more available.  See if that breed will meet your needs.  Here are the basic dairy goat breeds:

Saanens are pure white and used in many commercial and small dairies.  They are calm and bred for good milk production.  They need fences well-attached at the base as they have a tendency to burrow under them.

Toggenburgs came from Switzerland.  They are tan-colored with white and black highlights.  They are adventuresome and tough with a typically short lactation period – a good thing if you do not want to milk during a long-cold winter.

Alpines are my favorite breed.  They have long lactations and many will continue to give milk year after year with only one or two breedings.  I can attest to this fact because my dear Helga, grown when I bought her, was never pregnant in the 14 years she lived with us, but she gave milk enough for my children, orphan lambs and a few calves. 

Nubians are a large breed with distinctly large hanging ears.  They were originally a meat/milk breed, but now are mostly known for rich milk production. La Manchas are a milking breed from Spain, with miniature ears and weigh about 130 pounds.

Nigerian Dwarfs , an African breed, are small with rich milk.   Easier to fence and feed than the larger breeds. Crossbreeds are excellent for hybrid vigor and to develop characteristics you prefer.  We want medium to small goats with rich milk and long lactations, so we are using Nubian/Alpine/Nigerian crosses in our herd. 

Once you have a breed in mind, start looking at animals.  Around here (the Pacific Northwest) Craigslist is a great source if you are careful!  Plan to buy at least two goats, preferably already acquainted – they are herd animals and need companions to thrive.  You want a healthy, bright-eyed doe with a shiny coat.  Her udder should be large and well-attached under her back belly with two large nipples that squirt milk straight down.  Watch her being milked to be sure she can be handled.  Her legs should be straight, her tail should be up in the air and she should like humans.  However, if goats are used to a man, they may have a bit of trouble adjusting to a woman and vice-versa.  Our Nubian lead goat, Dee-Dee, adores my husband, talks to him and follows him around.  Luckily, our milking doe, Zella, was reared by a woman.  Zella loves me, comes off the hillside if I call her and would rather spend time with me than the herd.  Our 14-year-old son is able to milk her, but he spent a lot of time winning her over with carrots and apples before she was comfortable with him. 

With each goat you purchase get their date of birth, breeding, number of kids, any kidding or health problems, when she was last wormed, etc.  If she is bred, be sure to get a good estimate of the kidding date.  Stay far away from runny noses, respiratory noises and anything that makes you think a goat is unhealthy.  Expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $300 per goat.  We paid $45 each for our seven brush eaters, which includes a fine Nubian doe and a Nigerian Dwarf doe.  Watching Craigslist we were able to purchase three large well-bred Alpines for a total of $125 because the people couldn’t take care of them. 

I have transported goats in the backseat of my car, but nowadays, we use the pick-up with a canopy, tossing one of the dog cushions in the back with some hay to nibble during the trip.  Be sure you have a safely fenced pen and shelter all ready. 

Food and Shelter
We got back into goats when we found that our retreat property was heavily infested with poison oak.  Goats are browsers more than grazers, so brush like poison oak, blackberries, scotch broom and other noxious weeds are delicious to them, as is tree bark and most of your flowers, garden vegetables and fruit trees.  Good fences are a must.   We use welded cattle panels about 5 x 16 feet costing about $24.00 each to fence off our gardens and orchards, topped with deer tape to a height of about 6 feet.

Our herd roams free on about 30 acres with a creek and mountain as natural boundaries.  At night they are locked securely in a well-ventilated barn for protection from predators. We built sleeping stands out of plywood and blocks to keep them off our damp ground.  Five or more goats cuddle on each stand.

Our goats forage year-round along the creek and hill.  They receive regular supplements, mineral blocks and occasional hay if we get snow.  Most goats will be on hay – a mixture of grass and alfalfa seems to produce the best milk – but fresh feed is highly desirable.   Goats will not touch dirty feed so be sure your feeders are off the ground.  We mix our own grain from bulk oats, whole wheat, split peas, flax, kelp and molasses.  Always provide plenty of clean, fresh drinking water and wash the container often.

The most common killers of goats are domestic dogs.  Do not ever leave your herd at the mercy of anyone’s dogs, including your own.   We have one dog that we trust around the goats at any time and one dog that we keep an eye on whenever we bring a new goat around.

Liquid Gold – Start Milking!
Realize that milking is a twice-a-day-365-days-a-year chore.  We share milk with a neighbor and she milks whenever we are away.  Milking every twelve hours is best, but we milk at 8:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. because it suits our schedule better.   If you have never milked before, the best way to learn is from an experienced milker.  Here is a description of the process: The milk goat is placed in a stand, usually wooden with a slot for the neck that can be closed at the top to keep the goat in.  A pan of grain with cut up fruits and vegetables is placed at the front of the stand so the doe can eat while you milk. You come alongside the goat and sit on a stool that gives you adequate reach as you face the udder.  Loose hairs and soil are gently brushed off the udder area so none can fall into the milk pail or jar.  To begin milking, you place your thumb and first finger about two inches above the bottom of the teat.  Squeeze these fingers tightly together to capture the milk in the bottom of the teat.  Then bring your middle, ring and pinkie fingers around the teat one at a time to push the milk out and into your container.  Release your thumb and the teat fills with milk so you can repeat the process.  Nothing came out?  Try again.  Most children and adults are able to catch the system and rhythm of milking in a few minutes; they just need practice to strengthen hand and finger muscles. 

One method is to milk into a seamless stainless steel bucket.  This allows you to use both hands, saving time.  However, if your goat tends to kick or move around, or if you have weaker hands, I suggest using a pint or quart jar.  You hold the jar with one hand, milk with the other and change hands as you go back and forth between the teats (goats only have two; cows have four).  Goat teats are larger and easier to milk than cow teats.  When the flow slows down, massage the udder for 20 seconds or more and she will drop more milk.  Massaging is the key to maintaining and increasing production.  If you watch a young kid nurse, you will see it butt the udder like a punching bag to get more milk let down.  Massaging is a gentle version of this. Immediately put the milk into clean jars and place in the refrigerator.  Three things can put an off-flavor in your milk:  strong weeds, dirty containers, and nearness to a buck.  Watch the diet of your milk goat, keep milk utensils spotlessly clean and keep that buck far away from your milker during breeding season.

Flowing with Milk and Honey
So what do you do with all that milk?  I love to drink it warm within a few minutes of milking, which the teens find pretty disgusting!   They mix their chilled goat milk with a little vanilla or hot chocolate powder.  Their new drink is a blend of oranges, milk, egg and some sweetener for an Orange Julius type drink.  Very tasty.  We also make kefir and yogurt, use it in pancake batter and bread dough, chowders and other dishes.  In the past I have made goat cheese, which seldom got beyond the curd stage because cheese curds are delicious.  We also use milk and eggs for the dogs and cats so we are not dependent on store-bought kibbles.  I have experimented with leaving the goat milk out to replicate a no refrigerator scenario (like most people in the world experience daily!).  The milk clabbers – that is, it gets a bit thicker and tangier day by day.  After about three days it has the consistency of cream cheese with a tart flavor.  Whereas pasteurized, homogenized store milk will rot, clean raw milk will be usable warm or cool.

Adding a Buck
Keeping a buck (intact male goat) is not for novices.  I’ve had goats for several decades but this is the first time I have kept a buck.  We are doing it for sustainability reasons.  It will not be practical to take the goats to a buck in another town if gas becomes too expensive or travel becomes hazardous.  My husband and I considered the pros and cons very carefully before taking this step.  A buck means extra fencing, working out breeding plans so you have a consistent milk supply.  Your goat herd can triple with one round of breedings, so we discussed what to do with the offspring.  We decided that we could handle a smaller buck with good milkers in his pedigree.  Wanting richer milk for calories and a higher fat intake also influenced our choice.  When we saw a Nubian/Nigerian Dwarf cross for sale on Craigslist, we were pretty sure we had found our herd sire.  Cappy (Cappuccino) is currently five months old and already capable of breeding all but our tallest does.   Be fully aware of the bizarre habits of bucks during breeding season!  Even our cute young buck does things too gross to describe in this article that make him appealing to does in heat.  

Caring for the Kids
Having a buck brings babies in five months.  And goats can seldom have just one; twins and even triplets are not uncommon.  Called “kids”, nothing is cuter than newborn goats!  We try to keep our animals in as natural a setting as possible, so our does will stay with their kids for the first week while the colostrum (first milk with special antibodies and nutrients) is used up.  The second week the kids and mothers stay together at night, but separate for part of each day so we can begin milking.  This saves us from having to bottle-feed kids several times a day.  Doe kids that are going to be saved for milkers will be kept on the mother for 12 weeks, but young males will be castrated in the first few weeks (they are capable of breeding at 2 months!) and weaned at 6 weeks.  The best tool for castrating is a side-crusher.  We bought ours from Premier1 Supplies for $94.00 and printed off instructions from the internet.   All kids are disbudded (have their horn buds burned off to prevent horns from growing) at 2 to 3 days old.  We do not have horned goats and the two cannot be mixed because goats establish their pecking order with head-butting.  We bought a Rhinehart X-30 disbudding iron for $70.  The other tool needed is a pair of hoof trimmers for about $30.  If your goats have hard surfaces to walk on, their feet will wear down naturally and little trimming is necessary.  Have an experienced goat person help you learn these techniques.  You will be a pro in a short time.

Goat Psychology
What you will love about goats:  they have lots of personality, coupled with high intelligence.  What will drive you crazy about goats:  they have lots of personality, coupled with high intelligence.   So if we leave the property gate open for a few minutes because the goats are grazing elsewhere and we will be “right back”, you can count on the goats being out and over the hillside for an adventure in the blink of an eye.   If you store your hay in the barn with a simple latch, they will open it up, same for your chicken coop, your yard with the prize roses, and any other area that contains food or interest to them. On the other hand, the night that Dee-Dee refused to go back to the barn and was insistent that the herd spend the night in the garage near the house, we are pretty sure some sort of predator was waiting in there for goat dinner.   

Learn More
The best source of information about dairy goats is visiting people who have them.  Most of these dedicated goat-lovers enjoy teaching a newcomer the ropes.   I use Pat Coleby’s “Natural Goat Care ” book because I prefer natural remedies.  Amazon has lots of goat-keeping books, read the reviews to find the best ones.  Your local County Extension office should have free information about goats, as will 4-H goat clubs.  There are excellent web sites with detailed information about every imaginable goat situation.  I make herbal remedies for the few illnesses the goats have, mostly related to parasites.  We prune our friend’s honeysuckle as a safe and effective wormer which the goats devour eagerly. 

Home Business
Having a safe, healthy supply of fresh raw milk helps me care for my children in the best way possible.  We sell extra milk for $6.00 a gallon, but others sell it for much more.  So goats can be a home business as well.  Products can be milk, wethers, young does, buck service, etc.  Others make goat milk soap for a niche market.  I hope this article piques your interest in adding these capricious creatures to your survival plan.

Happy independence to all of you Preppers!

Letter Re: You are Only as Good as Your Equipment

I am a two-year every day reader of the SurvivalBlog, and going through most of the entries that people write I have noticed that the majority of people believe that in a post SHTF scenario we will be faced with daily battles with marauders trying to take or food and goods. This brings people to the assumption that they must only stock up on only ammunition and firearms. As we all know as readers of this blog that when SHTF we will not have grocery stores or any of the facilities that we take for granted as of today. We will be forced to live of the land and retrace our roots and enlist the skills that our forefathers had for generations.

I see many post on the importance of quality firearms and keeping them well maintained, but I rarely ever see a post on the importance of stocking up on and using good quality tools and equipment. “You’re only as good as your equipment” that is something I was told by my grandfather and father for as long as I can remember. I grew up on my families farm in northern Connecticut. We mainly were a vegetable farm but started taking on livestock as a hobby some years back. Everyday we use tools to fulfill or chores and duties around our farm. Whether its to plant or fix the equipment, we use or tools every single day. In a post SHTF situation we will not have a local Tractor Supply Store or Sears & Roebuck to go and pick up a new hammer or axe every time we break the handle. What you have is what you will be forced to live with for as long as things remain the way they are or you can barter a neighbor for theirs. In my years of farming I have generally found that a well maintained older tool will out last and function ten times better than most new light weight (cheap to maintain cause plastics easier to work with than forged steel) heavy duty models. This has always been the case, until my fiance got me a new axe after my main one broke this winter. 

As odd as it may sound my father and I are lumberjack hobbyists. Once a month we pack a lunch and head to the woods looking to find the perfect tree then take it down the old fashioned way with our axes. This wood will then become fire wood or if the wood is of quality it may become a mantle piece or a coffee table. So after breaking my main axe and only having a few small axes, hatchets and mauls left I was getting antsy on finding a replacement. I went to local stores such as the Tractor Supply Store and Sears & Roebuck, and didn’t find any of there tools up to my standards, this frustrated me being that our monthly date in the woods was coming up soon. Then my Fiance brings me this light weight fiber glass foreign job called the Fiskars 28″ Chopping axe the day my father and I had set a date for the woods. She swore by this company being that she is a seamstress and uses there scissors everyday and also uses their Reel Mower to mow the grass around our house and barns. During the walk through the woods I got nothing but sly remarks and under the breath snickers from my father. He had his double bit Michigan style axe made by Vaughan with a beautiful hickory handle and I had this gray and orange hollow handled axe with an almost parkerized looking head. We got to the tree and my father insisted I took the first swing, and upon my fourth or fifth draw back I realized I loved it.

Now the point of my post here is not to tell you how fun filled my day with my father was cutting down trees, but for the first I have found a well quality modern tool that stands up to everything I can throw at it. When going and looking at the prices of the Fiskars brand products I have found that anybody can afford these tools even on the tightest survivalist budget. After being so surprised with the quality of the axe I finally took a look at my fiances Fiskars Reel Mower she has been begging to show me. Now being a farmer I try to get everything done in the fastest most consistent manner as possible, so when I mow I mount a 70″ mowing deck to my Kubota. Until now this Reel Mower was just a tree huger novelty my newly gone-green fiance had been begging to show me. After looking at this mower I found that to the survivalist and post SHTF farmer and retreat owner this is the closest thing to a gas powered mower you can get. This Reel Mower has everything from adjustable blades to change the height and perfect spacing between the deck and the blades so sharpening the blade could quite possibly be a thing of the past with this mower.

Since receiving this axe I have gone ahead and replaced my splitting maul with the 28″ and 36″ Splitting axe, picked up a 14″ hatchet and an axe and knife sharpener all manufactured by Fiskars. These high quality axes all have fiberglass reinforced handles advertised as indestructible. I also purchased their innovative rain barrel system that separates the leaves and debris from the water which can be linked up to numerous barrels for as much free water storage as your budget will allow. The water out of the system is almost drinkable as it is, but I have taken it a step further fitting two Brita water filters to the end of the hose where the water enters the barrel. This ensures the water is safe enough for my animals to drink from, along with my family on those hot summer days.

if you haven’t heard of the company Fiskars, you may have heard of their sister company Gerber. These two companies both use the same quality materials and are both baked by a lifetime no-nonsense warranty. With all these quality features and materials whether your in a post-TEOTWAWKI situation or just want quality tools to get the job done without having to sacrifice all your money Fiskars seems to be the way to go. – Christopher R.

JWR Adds: Since I’m a Finnophile (I love everything made in the land of SAKO and Valmet), I have a weakness for Fiskars products. I not only have several pairs of their scissors, but also some of their axes, splitting mauls, and brush axes. I even have a Fiskars-made Valmet rifle bayonet. But I bought that more as an investment than anything else, since they are incredibly scarce.

Letter Re: When Alaskan Salmon is Chinese

Hi, Jim:
Every few weeks I buy a couple cases (of 24 cans) of canned wild Alaskan salmon canned by Bumble Bee selling for $1.99 per can (a 14.5oz can), and a quality gold tinted tapered can. Recently it has had a 2015 expiration date. In my estimation, wild salmon is an excellent unadulterated protein source with a lengthy expiration date, especially when compared to canned tuna (with traces of mercury) and canned chicken.   

Well, yesterday I went in to the same discount supermarket (the kind of no-frills market where you bag yourself and pay extra for the bag) and went straight for the salmon.  It was there at the same price but they had changed brands.  So I checked expiration date: 2012.  Yikes.  I looked closely at the can: poor quality, not evenly coated and some apparent rust at edges where can meets lid.  Then the kicker: It was marked both "Wild Alaskan Salmon" and "Product of China"   What the h*ll are the Chinese doing fishing salmon in our waters?  How can this be?  needless to say I left without buying any.  You really need to pay attention to the details, these days. – John E.

Letter Re: Antibiotics for Serious Wounds

A reader wrote to ask: “Dr. Koelker, you explained what each of the antibiotics is good for, but one major concern was unaddressed. In a TEOTWAWKI situation we may be faced with having to treat gunshot wounds. And just as likely, if not more so, we may need to treat serious lacerations, such as accidents with sharp, dirty tools. I think, as am I, the readers of this blog might be interested to know which antibiotics are the most effective in preventing infections if/when we sustain such wounds.”  

Doctor Koelker Replies:  As usual, such answers come in a short and a long form.  At the moment I won’t address details of wound cleansing, closing, cauterizing, likelihood of infection or fatality, etc., etc. 

Here is the short answer: The microbes that are likely to have been introduced into a wound determine the choice of both prophylactic and/or treatment antibiotics.  When antibiotics are given before a visible infection is apparent, the assumption is that the wound still contains bacteria in low numbers (most of which have hopefully been washed away by appropriate cleansing). Killing off these remaining microbes should prevent infection in most cases – although prophylactic treatment is not always effective.

Where do these germs come from?  This depends on the body part that was penetrated, the environment, and the source of the projectile.

Injuries that pierce the skin carry the risk of contamination from common skin microbes, primarily staph and strep germs.  When orthopedic surgeons place pins and screws in bones, they pierce the skin.  Despite careful antisepsis, perhaps a few bacteria might still be introduced into a bone, where infection can fester, causing permanent damage, limb loss, or even death.  Though in a surgical setting the risk of infection is low, the potential consequences of infection are so high that prophylactic antibiotics are standard – one dose before surgery, and one to several doses after surgery.  The intravenous antibiotic Ancef is most commonly employed (which is most similar to cephalexin, see below). 

Of the available oral antibiotics previously discussed, the best choices would be cephalexin, Augmentin, Avelox or Levaquin.  Less potent alternatives, if the former are unavailable, would include the erythromycins (including clarithromycin and azithromycin), tetracyclines (including doxycycline), or trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole (TMP-SMX).  Amoxicillin, penicillin, and ciprofloxacin are much less likely to be effective.  Normally IV antibiotics are preferred due to their immediate bioavailability and high blood concentration.  If oral antibiotics are used pre-op, they should be given on an empty stomach with water only, about two hours prior to surgery.

The other large class of potential contaminants is that of intestinal bacteria, especially gram-negative bacteria and anaerobes.  If the source of contamination is external, as an explosion in a cesspool, a person might live without surgery.  If the source is perforation of one’s internal organs, death is likely without emergency surgery. 

But say surgery is an option, or you’ve cut your hand deeply while cleaning out a septic tank – you’ll probably need a combination of antibiotics to avoid or treat infection.  The first should be either ciprofloxacin, Levaquin, or Avelox, whichever is available (ciprofloxacin is the only inexpensive generic in this class).  Second line alternatives for these would be Augmentin or TMP-SMX.  Additionally, metronidazole should be added to cover anaerobic bacteria.  Basically, the same antibiotics useful for diverticulitis or other intra-abdominal infection are indicated for intra-abdominal wounds. 

Lastly, we seldom think of tetanus except to get vaccinated when we’re injured.  If you haven’t been immunized in the last five years, then do so now.  The new TDAP vaccine includes immunization against diphtheria and pertussis as well.  If a wound is deep or contaminated with rust, treating with metronidazole (or penicillin) may decrease the number of tetanus-toxin producing Clostridium tetani bacteria, but these antibiotics do nothing to counter the toxin that has been produced, and which may cause muscle spasms that constrict the airway.  Without immunization, risk of death is very high.   (Doctor Koelker is SurvivalBlog’s Medical Editor. She is also the editor of ArmageddonMedicine.net.)

Economics and Investing:

Thor sent this bit of news on the global food supply: Planet could be ‘unrecognizable’ by 2050, experts say

Luis (At Sea) sent us this link to Seeking Alpha: Case-Shiller: Home Price Declines Continue. Luis notes: “Notice that Washington D.C. had the only positive number, and even that was marginal.”  

Several Items from Kevin S.: A Tipping Point Is Nearing  

Food/Financial Crisis of 2011  

The Collapse of America’s Labor Force  

Items from The Economatrix:

How Much More Demand Can Silver Handle?  

Despite Oversupply, US Gasoline Prices Leap  

Oil Surges 6% as Libya Tension Intensifies  

Fear Of “Catastrophic” Crash Rising Despite Bull Market 

Libya Unrest Rattles Markets; Oil Prices Jump  

Oil, Gold Jump On Middle East Fears  

Oil Price Shock:  Pandora’s Box is Open  

Odds ‘n Sods:

Pierre M. sent: CDC: Deadly Superbug “C-Diff” Spreading

   o o o

Avalanche Lily spotted this: Since D.C.’s handgun ban ended, well-heeled residents have become well armed.

   o o o

Patricia F. flagged this: Why Does Texas Have Its Own Power Grid?

   o o o

A reader suggested HP LaserJet Tough Paper for printing key references that might be used in the field. It is not paper. Rather, it is a plastic material that can be laser printed. It is waterproof, so it would be ideal for printing specialized maps and pages for field notebooks.

   o o o

Mike in Texas mentioned: “If you need soil, fertilizer, or garden amendments, never pay full price. Lowe’s, and many other major retailers, take 50% off for any kind of broken bag. Check frequently because I’m told they accidentally break bags almost daily. I even have my local Lowe’s store call me when they stack some up.”