Notes from JWR:

April 15th is traditionally Tax Day here in the U.S., although this year it falls on Monday the 18th, just so that everyone can can both celebrate Emancipation Day and have a fun-filled weekend of self-flagellation assessment. The good news is that April 15th is also opening day for the new Atlas Shrugged movie.

—

Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Prepping for Apartment Dwellers, by Anthony S.

Preparing for an uncertain future when living in an apartment or a condominium (“condo”) can be a struggle.  When the Lord has not chosen to give you land to work with, you work with what he has given you, knowing first and foremost that he is your first retreat, and no matter what happens, “All things work together for the Glory of the Lord…”.  There are many limiting factors when you do not have the smallest amount of land.  And if you are reading this, you probably agree that our future has many uncertainties from economic, to natural, to spiritual.  I would like to share a bit of my families walk in this world that the Lord has chosen for us.

Our Situation     
As a starter, I have been married for 12 years, and have two wonderful children who are not in school yet, although when the time comes, we will likely do home-school.  Our finances are poor, weighted down by circumstances beyond our control, and poor spending habits from our youth, so living on a budget is a new thing for us.  We have lived in our condo, that is for all intents and purposes, an apartment on the top floor, with neighbors beside and below, for five years.  Our condo is in a cold climate, with a very abbreviated growing season, but with much hunting and wilderness close by.  Still, as you might expect, the condo is in a small city, about 80,000 population, and not in the best neighbor hood.  During our time here, we have learned many lessons, and would like to share those with you.  

Setting Goals     
Before you start anything, it is wise to have a plan, and a destination.  Our goal over this time has been to prepare for any situation that may arise, so that we will be self sufficient for 30 days minimum in our condo, and then have resources to contribute should we be forced to relocate.

Water     
The first concern of any prepping situation should always be water.  It is the most vital component of any survival situation, second only perhaps to shelter.  You can understand the difficulties of storing watering an apartment, but there are some things that can be done.  The 5 gallon office jugs that are used in office are great for storing gallons of water, and can easily be stored in a closet.  For 30 days and 4 people, it was decided that 30 gallons would have to do.  Worthy of note, is that you should still add a cap full of water purifier to this, since it will be stored for a long period of time, and should be rotated about once a year.  This provides a gallon a day, and could be supplemented by a nearby creek.  This is the next step in our water prep plan, to have a water filter capable of handling raw water to supplement what is on hand.  Also an option I have considered, is installing a large water tank in the condo (in a closet or under a cabinet)  and have all the water run through it, so if the water goes out, there will still be a large tank of water we could draw from, and it will constantly be rotated and fresh.  This will take some investment though, and handyman work, so for now, the 30 gallons and filter plan will have to do. 

Food     
Food storage is also an issue that has special considerations.  Space being the most obvious.  For living in an apartment, all the same food rules apply, but I would say that storage is a bit different.  Here again, a converted closet fills in as a Larder.  When an item is used up in the pantry, it moves in from the Larder, and you go shopping for the larder.  But there is a catch for the apartment dweller, so everything is made mobile.  Placing everything in 5 gallon buckets, that may or may not be sealed, but this makes them portable in case the need to relocate comes up.  Also, there are no ‘root cellars’ or basements in apartments, and not in our condo.  So keeping things cool dry and dark becomes an issue, and the 5 gallon bucks with gamma lids seems to work will, especially with mildew issues, that seem to happen.     

Expanding food stores to a year or more is something else that is a important, but as the space is an issue, has to be handle carefully.  We decide to diversify our food and store it within our community of friends, so if a retreat is necessary, we will have already been contributing to them, and relocating should be a little easier.     

A surprise is that a garden is not out of the question.  Although it is small, the association or manager may allow you to put up a small garden were flowers or anything else may grow.  We setup a square foot garden behind our unit.  Its not private, and pretty open to the neighborhood kids, but it is better then nothing, and also teaches us need to know stuff information for when the Lord decides we may have a home.

Fuel     
Fuel is a large concern for apartment dwellers.  It is dangerous to store, and very needed when temperatures can reach 20 below zero (Fahrenheit) all winter, and even colder, at times.  Not to mention the need to cook, and power for other living needs.  Our solution at this time is to make sure we can last for 30 days, and with this in mind, we have gotten a Big Buddy heater.  This has the low O2 sensor on it, and in addition, we have a CO2 detector.  In our apartment, we have ventilation vents, about 6 inches in diameter that allow fresh air into the house, but I don’t think I would rely on these.  When push comes to shove, there are also the dryer vent, stove vent and bathroom vent that will allow rotation with outside air.  At this time we haven’t tested our heating, and possibly cooking means, but with a little piping, a heating system should be available.  As for storage, Some of the small enclosed fuel for camp stoves are kept in the house, but the large propane tanks that would be required for the heating are stored outside, at a friends house within walking distance.

Security   
Security for some people is large concern.  I personally believe it is taken out of proportion to other needs that may exits, that is why I mention it only after 4 other points.  That being said, it is a priority, and I do believe that in a worse case scenario, we would be more like New Orleans then Japan.  To that end, I do have arms in the form of:

  • A semi-automatic rifle with full capacity magazines,
  • A hunting rifle,
  • A .22 rimfire rifle
  • A 12 gauge shotgun

I hope to add a large caliber revolver, later.  

Of more import though is the operational security (OPSEC) of keeping what you are doing out of direct light of your neighbors eyes.  With an apartment dweller, this is all the more important because of the close proximity of potential threats, especially, if like me, you do not live in the greatest neighborhood.  This is best handled in the obvious ways.  Keeping things low key, and moving equipment and food in small amounts.  [JWR Adds: I advise apartment dwellers to use musical instrument cases when they transport their guns. Used cases can often be found for very modest prices at thrifts stores or via Craigslist. ] As a follower of Christ, it is still important to reach out to your neighbors, and form bonds with them that the gospel may be spread through love, but at the same time, there is no need to broadcast your preparation plans.  Here the saying is best applied, loose lips sink ships.

Medical and G.O.O.D. bag     
These two I will mention as they are important to any prepper, but only in passing as these do not differ greatly for an apartment dweller then with a home owner.  But there are some points that I will bring up that I think should be made.     

G.O.O.D. bags are easy enough to put together, and should include a mini set of everything you would normally make for prepping.  I include at the end of this a simple list of our bob bags, a starting point that we used.  We put these together for less then $150 over the course of two weeks.  Special attention was placed on the weight, and should be a special note to an apartment dweller, as if it comes to bugging out, you will have to hike your bag out.     

The First Aid kit or Medical Cabinet as I am coming to call it is also a priority, but does not differ greatly for the apartment dweller.  There was recently a fantastic post about your first aid kit (What is a Well-Stocked First Aid Kit?, by K.M.), and I will simply reference it here and say that is what we are aiming for.  For preparing, there will be a medical cabinet that is currently under construction, a first aide kit for the BOB bags, and a car kit, for any camping or out of the house needs. 

Retreat and Community     
It is apparent to me, as a condo or apartment dweller, making plans beyond 30 days would be unreasonable, as the logistics and OPSEC become more and more complicated and dangerous with each passing day.  The time to move out to a retreat would be highly dependent on the situation.  Should there be an event were a break down in society takes place, waiting 30 days may be suicide.  But this is very situational, and should be handle as such.  I would add to this only that you should not push it, if you wait until the last minute when the decision is obvious, it may be to late.     

Now a retreat is not like it sounds to to most, and perhaps I should not call it so, but for the lack of a better word.  Here it means going someplace for the long term, a year or more.  This could be a friends house, or perhaps a relative, but someplace planed far ahead of time, as dropping in on anyone only adds to your problems, and theirs.  This will likely get you turned away, even by the best intentioned people, when it comes to choosing your family or theirs.  So Planning ahead is important, probably the most important, and this leads into community.     

By connecting with like minded people in your area, you can begin to plan ahead.  Finding out what they need, and building relationships that will endure.  You can learn skills that will add to the group, buy things to supplement what they have or add to needs that they may have already.  This will provide you some place to retreat to.  It is highly advisable that you pre-stage food and other things there ahead of time.  This proves your commitment to them, and at the same time diversifies your assets, in case of fire or other eventuality, all your resources are not lost with your apartment.     

Something else that can be considered in conjunction with the retreat portion is a trailer.  Getting a trailer, or a pop-up camper, is a great way to expand your flexibility.  You may not be able to keep it in your apartment parking lot, but by setting one up, you add to you storage space, add space to store volatile things best stored outdoors, and also provide a living space in case you are forced out at the apartment.

Don’t get down yet, there are some positives for being an Apartment Dweller!

Education-Training     
This deserves its own special section.  Lets face it, if the SHTF, then apartment dwellers are going to need someplace to go.  But this doesn’t have to be a bad thing.  Everyone can’t know everything, and as an apartment dweller, you can make yourself much more valuable to your group by learning and expanding skills that will be needed.  In addition to two strong arms and like minded faithful Christian loyalty that any apartment dweller can bring they should also be able to bring other skills, like Sewing, woodworking, cooking with raw ingredients, baking, engine repair, and many others.  Personally, I am focusing on butchering, as that is what is needed in my community.  So I am gathering those skills, as well as some of the specialized equipment that demands.  This coincides with planning ahead for your retreat, so people are not doubling up on skills, and invests you in the group, even if you don’t have your own dirt.

Communications    
Communication is a point that is often overlooked in prepping.  If a community wants to be effective in coming together and working together, then they will have to be able to communicate in a grid down situation.  This is actually an asset for the apartment dweller.  Communications gear, and ham radio training is relatively cheap, and with little creativity, is easy enough to keep out of sight.  For the community, which is likely not in the middle of town, information will become more important then gold.  This is were the apartment dweller can and should shine.  Just like a scout that feeds information back, the apartment dweller can do the same, and holds a highly valued place in the system in which they support.  Countless people have died for lack of good intelligence, and an apartment dweller can give this back to the group like no other.

Conclusion     
I often wonder why the Lord keeps me where I am, I have tried to move into a house 5-6 times, and it just was not to be.  But that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t do your best to prepare.  When “you see the red sky in the morning”  you should prepare for the storm.  And to those who may think that an apartment dweller has nothing to offer, think again, the Lord has placed us all exactly where he wants us. All things work together for the Glory of the Lord and those who serve Him!

As a final point, I have found very little for apartment preppers, so I have started my own little blog.  Please drop by. If I get enough interest, I will keep up with daily posts and tips on prepping while on a budget and living in an apartment.

Appendix–My G.O.O.D. Bags Contents:

Bag X2 Waterproofing Clothes Base layers Fleece pants Fleece shirts Wool socks Hats Gloves Undies Diapers Covers for Diapers Re-usable wipes for diapers Ring Sling Packable rain coats/ pants x4 Gun and ammo Water Food 6-8 Mountain House meals Chocolate Blanket–wool or emergency blanket Fire Matches Magnesium or fire key Fuel, steel wool, fire sticks Propane cook top Camp cooking set Knifes Sharpening stone Leatherman Saw Hand axe Machete Tarp Compass Magnifying glass Mirror whistle Duct tape String & rope & hooks & Carabiners Documents – copies Cash Optics–binoculars Traps–rat traps Emergency radio Batteries Water filter Pencils, paper, books Waterproof cards Survival books Portable med kit Insect repellant Fishing box Sewing box LED Flashlights and headlamps Children’s bags – Blanket, bottle of water, food, book, and stuffed animal

Pat’s Product Reviews: MGI Hydra Modular Rifle

Update, October, 2011: This review has been updated to NEGATIVE. To explain: In my original review, I had posted favorable comments on the MGI “Hydra” rifle system. I am withdrawing that positive review, and alerting SurvivalBlog readers to NOT purchase this product. While the sample I wrote-up in SurvivalBlog worked flawlessly, I have been informed of some serious quality control problems with current production Hydra rifles. Several SurvivalBlog readers who placed orders have received defective guns. One SurvivalBlog reader, after many months, finally did get a working Hydra. Another SurvivalBlog reader is still waiting. He returned his Hydra before he even took it out of the gun shop – it fell apart. And now, despite numerous attempted contacts, he can’t get any response from MGI nor have they offered a refund.
 
It would appear that we were all disappointed to one degree or another. So, be advised that I recommend that you DO NOT do business with MGI until they have corrected their quality control problems and have established a good reputation for customer service in rectifying their past mistakes.

As with many guns and calibers, there is a debate over which rifle is “better” – the AR-15 style or the AK-47. Once again, I’ve avoided this debate, and as I have said before, there is “no better” when it comes to certain guns and calibers. One of the things folks don’t like about the AR-15 style of rifle is the caliber .223/5.56mm – some say it’s not powerful enough to reach out there and touch someone compared to the 7.62×39 (AK-47) round. Many say the .223/5.56mm doesn’t penetrate deeply enough compared to other rounds, especially the 7.62×39 round. I’ll not disagree entirely to the above statements. Many feel that nothing less than a .308 Winchester round will do for their survival needs. We can debate which is “best” from now, until the cows come home, and the argument will never be won.   I’ve been writing about guns and knives for about 18 years. And, any more, it takes a lot to really impress me in a new gun or knife. So many guns and knives are so much alike to another design, it can make your head spin. In steps the MGI Military “Hydra” modular rifle.

The Hydra is a true modular rifle based on the ever popular AR-15, with a few new twists of its own. The Hydra can be set-up as your basic AR-15 style rifle – firing the .223/5.56mm round, and it comes with a free-floated barrel for added accuracy, as well as a quad-rail handguard and flat-top receiver for mounting your favorite optic, laser, red dot or regular sights. If that’s all the Hydra did, it would be a good rifle, it’s a big step above many of the economy AR-15s on the market, make no mistake about that. What we have in the MGI Hydra is a rifle/carbine that can easily and quickly change from one caliber to another – in about a minute and a half. The Hydra can change from a plain ol’ .223/5/56mm to a good number of other calibers in less than two minutes, with no special tools. That is the good news. The bad news is that in recent months, serious quality control issues have emerged.

My Hydra is set-up with the standard .223/5.56mm 16″ barrel. I also have conversion kits so I can use AK-47 mags, 9mm Colt AR mags and Grease Gun mags. I have four different calibers I can shoot through my Hydra, and I’ll be looking at getting the conversion kit so I can shoot 9mm Glock magazines – for this, I only need to purchase a mag well that takes 9mm Glock mags – I already have a 9mm barrel and bolt. I added a flip-up rear sight, and a LaserLyte green laser to the quad-rail. the LaserLyte green laser is bright – it can be seen in bright daylight, and is military tough.   – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

Four Letters Re: Coffee in a Post-Collapse Society

Sir:

In the recent article Coffee in a Post-Collapse Society, the author is talking about Arabica coffee being only cultivated near the equator. Robusto green coffee can be grown in the southern states like Florida, south Texas (same latitude as Cuba, a coffee producing country) basically any place that citrus can grow, Robusto coffee can grow. Robusto coffee can grow at low altitudes although it is not know for it’s high quality taste. Robusto coffee beans that are used mostly for instant coffee and a blend with Arabica beans in espresso for a creamier foam.

Yields for Robusto coffee are about 1-2 pounds per bush. For more information, visit the Talk About Coffee web site.

Coffee bean trees are sold as ornamental plants in the south. Available at nurseries that sell ornamental houseplants. Regards,. – M.B.

James Wesley:
Following the link in the coffee article to purchase a [hand-crank coffee] grinder, I found it was no longer available [from that vendor].  But I found the same model, Kyocera Ceramic Coffee Grinder (Model CM-50 CF), on Amazon.com for $5 less, and with free shipping. – Bobby S.

 

Jim,
I’m not sure that T.R.’s comment about most ground coffee in stores being allegedly stale is the most important consideration in a post-Schumer-hits-the-fan environment. I hardly think that in the midst of a major crisis, people will complain that they aren’t getting freshly-roasted coffee beans–most people who drink coffee will be happy to get any coffee at all, as long as it doesn’t taste like it’s been exposed to open air for an extended period of time. Having said that, just because coffee is already roasted and ground doesn’t mean it necessarily tastes subpar, except to “coffee snobs” who should be happy they’re getting coffee at all when Starbucks should be the least of their concerns. There is good coffee out there, it just takes a bit of personal research to find what you like.

My coffee of choice, Cafe Bustelo (which should be easy to find in most major grocery stores across the U.S., and it’s very common in the Southeast and especially in Florida), comes in vacuum-sealed steel cans that require a can opener to open them–none of those flimsy foil flaps that are so easy to puncture. Not only is it pretty darn hard to compromise the vacuum seal in a sealed steel can under most normal storage circumstances, but the Cafe Bustelo cans, being all metal, are also very handy as storage containers after the coffee is gone. And at less than $3.50 a can at Wal-Mart, it’s a pretty cheap barter and/or personal item to stock up on.

And if things get bad enough, coffee could also be a type of “currency” that can buy you protection or get you out of a dangerous situation. I know that a lot of people are uneasy about the thought of this sort of bribery, but if it helps save the lives of your family or loved ones in an already-bad situation, it’s worth it. I’ve been reading Martin Gilbert’s book “The Righteous: The Unsung Heroes of the Holocaust” and there are a number of accounts in the book of people in WW2 Europe doing whatever it took, even bribing officials with various items, to help save Jews and others. I think that given the economic Armageddon approaching the Western world, coffee will be just as valuable as it was in war-torn Europe. – S.C.

 

Hi Jim,

Just a note about today’s coffee post:

Coffee is a xanthine (same a theophylline, used to treat asthma). When I spent a year in rural Turkey (archeology dig), my allergist told me about using coffee for a vaso-dilator in a pinch. I found it helpful, and two Turkish coffees in the morning reduced my lung inflammation.   This was 25 years ago.

Here’s a link to more recent studies. Thanks for all you do.   Blessings, – Mary Beth

Economics and Investing:

Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large) mentioned this chart: The U.S. Misery Index, showing unemployment and inflation. Note that the numbers for the last 16 years are artificially low, because the back room boys have been monkeying with the inflation statistics. (They have been made artificially low, by the advent of hedonic adjustments.)

Reader RJK wrote: “Jefferson County, Alabama will be bankrupt by July of 2011 and the bankruptcy will exceed that of Orange County, California.  The county is going bankrupt because the county commissioner engaged in [derivative] interest rate swaps that exceeded the level of debt. He and the investment advisors are now known by inmate numbers.”

Several readers sent this: Inflation, using the reporting methodologies in place before 1980, hit an annual rate of 9.6 percent in February, according to the Shadow Government Statistics newsletter.

Pierre M. spotted this: Budget tricks helped Obama save programs from cuts.

Items from The Economatrix:

Consumers Buy More Retail Goods in March

Job Openings Rise to Highest Point Since September ’08

IMF Warns US to Make “Down Payment” on Massive Deficit

Japan Downgrades Its Economy

Odds ‘n Sods:

Joe D. sent some insight on retreat locales: West Texas becomes ever more lonely as population drops. Since domestically-produced oil may spark a post-collapse renaissance, finding West Texas land with a reliable water well might be a good idea.

   o o o

Commentary from Laurel, over at the Faith and Heritage blog: A Good Children’s Book Is Hard to Find

   o o o

Claire Wolfe comments on the botched Mt. St. Helens evacuation, in Backwoods Home. (Thanks to The Other J.R. for the link.)

   o o o

The folks at Backyard Food Production are again offering a 10% discount for SurvivalBlog readers on the DVD “Food Production Systems for a Backyard or Small Farm”. This DVD is a fast way to learn to grow food.  It is a comprehensive tutorial on home food production available showing you how much water you need, how much land, highest efficiency gardening systems, home butchering and small livestock, orchards, and more – all with the focus of how to do it when the stores are closed.  SurvivalBlog readers will get a 10% discount off the regular $28.95 price.  The discount will be available only until the end of April, so order your copy soon.

   o o o

J.B.G. recommended this: De Borchgrave: The coming geopolitical upheaval

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Whenever destroyers appear among men, they start by destroying money, for money is men’s protection and the base of a moral existence. Destroyers seize gold and leave to its owners a counterfeit pile of paper. This kills all objective standards and delivers men into the arbitrary power of an arbitrary setter of values. Gold was an objective value, an equivalent of wealth produced. Paper is a mortgage on wealth that does not exist, backed by a gun aimed at those who are expected to produce it. Paper is a check drawn by legal looters upon an account which is not theirs: upon the virtue of the victims. Watch for the day when it bounces, marked, ‘Account overdrawn.’ ” – Ayn Rand, “Atlas Shrugged”

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Let’s Talk About Trapping: North American Furbearers, by Jason L.

My father introduced me to the art of trapping when I was just 10 years old. I remember walking the edges of rivers checking the sets that he had made and seeing him bring home red and gray fox. When I was 12, I took a safety course and got my trapping license. The first year my father did most of the work setting the traps, while I did the baiting. As years went by he stopped trapping but I continued and by definition am now a professional. Whenever I had the chance to trap where someone else was setting, I studied their sets and made mental notes of what worked and what didn’t. I was offered an opportunity in my teens to trap raccoon with a neighbor who was very well known for his trapping ability. The first year I trapped with him, I caught ten raccoon. He later showed me some sets for trapping beaver. In this article I will share some knowledge with those interested in trapping furbearers. Many of these furbearers can be used as a meat source too, with proper cleaning and cooking. Before trapping make sure you have a valid trapping permit and check local laws regarding which baits are permissible to use.

We will first discuss small and easy game, the muskrat. These little critters are pretty easy to catch and offer both source of food and soft fur. The easiest way to locate muskrats is to search along muddy creek or pond banks. Muskrat make a 6” diameter hole into the bank for their den. In ponds with fallen trees or stumps they will often make a house out of dead grasses, reeds and pond scum. I have found that muskrat dens are much easier to trap than houses. If you locate a den, house, or run where you can clearly see that they are swimming, you can set a fast and easy connibear trap. Connibear traps are the fastest and most humane way to catch and dispatch animals. Connibears used underwater will grip the body of the animal and hold it, allowing the animal to drown in a short time. I try not to use connibears on land as they most generally will kill anything that gets in them, including animals not intended to be caught. As mentioned earlier I find muskrat houses difficult to trap because of deep water, difficulty in locating there entrances and the possibility of scaring them off. I will often set leg hold traps to catch these house living muskrats when they are on floating logs they use for a toilet, or under a tree they use for a feed bed. A feed bed will usually be found under an overhang, in tall grasses, or under a tree so that they will be protected from flying predators. Feed beds will be located in shallow water normally at the water’s edge and will look like mowed grasses. I find apples make great bait for muskrats and often you’ll find slides and runs under apple trees along rivers and ponds.

Muskrat are skinned in a tub fashion. Make a slit from their inner leg to the vent, then make a ring around the tail. Make another cut from the underside of the tail to the vent. You can then simply work the fur down toward the head, pulling and cutting. When skinning take care not to pull too hard on the muskrat as you may rip his stomach open. Use your knife to cut the tissue holding the skin to his body. When you get to the front legs, just pull them through, and the skin will tear, leaving little leg holes. Once to the head you will have to cut holes for the ears and eyes. Once you are done skinning, stretch the fur by placing it on a commercial metal wire stretcher or on a homemade wood stretcher. The meat from muskrat can be used like beef as they are herbivores.  I prefer to grind it and cook it.

The next water-dwelling furbearer I would like to discuss is the beaver. Many of the same principles of trapping muskrat apply to beaver. Beaver also make dens and houses. Their houses are made of mud and sticks. In my state it’s illegal to set a trap within 25 feet of a house. The connibears for beaver are much bigger, and special care should be taken when setting them. If you get caught in the trap, you will not get out on your own. Never fasten a large trap until you have finished your set, in case you get caught and need to go for help.  You can set connibears in runs (large muddy cuts in the river or pond bottom), and in front of dens (again in my state if the den has sticks on top it’s considered a house). Leg hold or pan traps can be set where beaver enter and exit the water. You can bait beaver with poplar tree branches.

To make this set drive several fresh cut 3”-4” diameter sticks in the bank where water is shallow. Put smaller branches behind the larger sticks. Using a knife peel some bark away from the sticks so the scent of the poplar sap can be picked up by the beaver. Push two sticks into the bank in a “V” shape parallel the water so to guide the beaver into the trap. I will usually place a small rock in front of my trap (beaver swim with the legs facing backward, when they bump into the ground, they place both front feet down to support themselves), by placing the rock you can be assured the beaver will bump it and place his feet in your trap. Otherwise you may just catch his chest hair and educate him.

When using flat/pan traps you need to make drowning sets, as beavers will simply chew off your stake and leave with your valuable trap. I make a wire slide using a 90 degree bent washer with a hole drilled in one side. You need to position the washer so when pulled down the wire it will slide freely but when pulled backward it will bind and not slide. Stake the wire to the bank on one end with a metal post. You can use cement blocks, a burlap bag filled with rocks or any other means for the other end but make sure the deep end of the slide is at least 3” deep and heavy enough a beaver cannot pull it out. I once walked up on a livid 55-pound beaver that had pulled my drowning set up onto the bank. Every tree, shrub and piece of grass in a 6’ diameter had been chewed, spit on and put in a pile that he was sitting on top of as if to say, “I dare you to mess with me!” To dispatch a live beaver I prefer a .22 short out of my H&R 9-shot revolver. The .22 Short bullets enter the skull but do not exit and does less damage to the pelt and in a survival situation less damage to the meat.

Beaver will often have fleas so keep them away from your body and dogs. I place mine in a contractor style garbage bag followed by a three-day deep freeze in my chest freezer before skinning them. You can also use flea and tick spray by spraying it into the bag and then sealing the bag. Beaver are skinned differently than muskrats. To skin beaver, ring their tail then lay them on their back. Make a single cut from head to tail and peal the skin around to the back side. Once you’re past the legs hang the beaver by his tail and work the skin off the back. The back has a lot of gristle and works hard. To process beaver you need to flesh them out by removing the fats and meat from the skin. Then stretch in a circular pattern on a piece of plywood. Cook beaver similar to beef, they are an herbivore as well.

Raccoon will be the final animal I’ll discuss. They are a curious animal and are relatively easy to catch on land and water. I prefer to trap hillside seeps (wet springs) and river bottoms. I use natural cubbies such as uprooted trees, or stack stones to make a cubby. If trapping along a stream with a high muddy bank, I make a pocket hole cubby by digging a 10” diameter hole at a 15 degree upward angle.  Use your hand to smooth the entrance of the pocket cubby so it looks like something has been using it. For bait I use Jack Mackerel, a marshmallow and some homemade fish oil. To make the oil I place several small feeder fish chopped into 1” chunks into a old jar. Leave the jar in direct sunlight with the lid on loose (this allows for the oil to outgas, keeping it bug free). When baiting my set I place a spoonful of meat on a rock in the back of the cubby then make a small hole in the top of the marshmallow with your pinky finger. Put your fish oil in the center of the marshmallow (this keeps the oil from evaporating or running off the rock) the white marshmallow servers as a visual attractor to the raccoon. You can also use Jello powder at sets to draw in a raccoon and make him work the set more giving you increased time to catch him. I place a pan trap in the entrance of the cubby or pocket hole (preferable covered by 1” of water). If no water is available take care where you kneel and what you touch so your human scent is not left behind. Cover with leaves or a thin lay of dirt. Fasten your trap with wire to a drag so they can get away from the set without destroying it. I have used some set locations for several years allowing them to look more natural over time. I have also just placed a pan trap in shallow water with a piece of aluminum foil over the pan.

Raccoon are curious and grab for the shiny object (make that 102 uses for aluminum foil). Raccoon can also be trapped in blind sets on trails by placing the trap on one side or the other of a stick they need to step over. This assures a clean front foot catch (though you may catch any animal traveling the trail). I have had deer set traps off this way before. Skinning a raccoon is similar to skinning a muskrat with the exception that you keep the tail. Ring all four legs then make a cut from the underside of the legs to the vent. Make a triangle type cut around the vent and continue the cut up the tail. Then work the skin off the animal. To pull the bone from the tail use a clothespin or a tail puller and place around the bone and pull down. The fats on raccoon are very flammable. I have heard of people using the carcasses for heat. The oils could be used to coat boats from leaks, canvass tarps and oil for lighting. I have no idea how the smell would be from the oil light. The meat can be cooked and should be cooked thoroughly as they are omnivores and eat both meat and wild edibles. Most people I know bake raccoon and place the meat chunks on a cookie rack above a plan so the fats drip off (can be used later). If the animal appears to be mangy or have distemper, there is a possibility of rabies and I would dispatch of the creature and bury it where nothing could dig it up.

Many other animals can be trapped using the above methods and most are skinned using the tub type discussed. Snares can be used as well but 95% of the time anything caught in a snare will be dead upon arrival including domestic animals. You can feed the meat of animals to pigs as well but again rabies could be transferred so make sure the animals your trapping are healthy. For a beginner looking to get started I would recommend reading Guide to Trapping by Jim Spencer, Into The Primitive: Advanced Trapping Techniquesby Dale Martin, and Trapping North American Furbearers by S. Stanley Hawbreaker (my personal favorite and can be found at yard sales and library book sales). Also get several different size traps 110 connibears, 330 connibears, #1 ½, #2 and #4 pan traps. A couple dozen traps and a little practice will make sure you can catch and eat animals others might not have access to. As stated before many times on survivalblog.com, knowledge is useless unless you know how to use it.

Letter Re: It’s The End Of The Welding As We Know It

James:
It is the “End Of The Welding As We Know It”.   For a while anyway…  There was an accident at the Louisville, Kentucky plant which supplies most of the calcium carbide to North America. Calcium carbide is the main raw material used for for making acetylene gas for oxy-acetylene welding and more importantly oxy-acetylene cutting. Most welding is done with other processes and most cutting can be done with propane, MAPP (Methylene Acetylene Polypropylene), or natural gas. The cutting torches will require different tips and even when up and running there are those who will dislike the longer preheat times.  

Suddenly the things I was doing and planning to do have changed. There are other, smaller sources of acetylene so critical uses should still get enough to get by though none have enough excess capacity to meet all the demand. I expect prices to rise of course. Funny how the other sources suddenly find it more expensive to produce acetylene. It will be interesting to see how far reaching the ripple effect will be. You don’t have to think too long to see how all of society is affected by, if not dependant upon, metal fabrication/welding. A couple times in your novel “Patriots” you mention using welding gases to do a job. This is fortunately not not the sudden and final end but it is a good time to come up with switch to Plan B at least as a trial.  

My side line is repair and light fabrication and for that I use a variety of processes. In case of a major disruption I have a very basic AC/DC transformer welder and a growing collection of welding rods. My Listeroid powered genset runs primarily on diesel but my fuel supply can be easily extended by supplementing it with furnace oil, vegetable oil, propane, methane or woodgas. With just the welder I can of course weld but also do a surprisingly good job of cutting and piercing. Well, the word “cutting” may be a bit generous but “severing” is a fair description and is better than nothing.  

Why a stick welder? Well, there is no denying the ease and speed of wire feed MIG (Metal Inert Gas) welding but simplicity, reliability and versatility will be more important to me. I will have no contact tips, liners rollers, guides, shielding gas or squeaky clean wire to worry about. If some one has a better set up and stockpile that will be great but on my budget this will be quite sufficient. If I have a box of rods I can keep going and do so even in conditions that MIG welding is simply not possible.   As for versatility working on different metals means just switching electrodes and no concerns about needing a particular shielding gas. 7018 electrodes are sort of the benchmark for steel but they need to be kept perfectly dry for inspected welds and at least very dry for decent home welds. Electrodes like 6013 and 6011 though are happy on the shop shelf and will run on the most basic, low cost welders. Some may scoff at these two rods or at stick welding in general but in a pinch (or a crunch) they will work pretty well and no one will be X-raying the welds. No big commitment is necessary for diversity; just whatever quantity of specialty electrode you think you can justify. I’ll have to admit that aluminum is no fun with a stick welder but it is sometimes possible.  

One especially nice angle is that this survival skill pays me to practice. As it pays I can expand my preps related to the skill or preps in general besides just making ends meet in these uncertain times. Add to this set up a few hand tools and basic supplies like gloves and lenses and the situation is quite capable and sustainable. If there is anything left of society after the crunch I expect to supply a service which is valuable to myself and others. A second welder would make good sense but it’s already on my list.   Cheers, – Groundhog

Three Letters Re: Maps of Caves and Mining Districts

Mr Rawles:  
Well, this is an area of knowledge where I do in fact have some expertise, being a caving professional.  I hadn’t ever really considered caves to be of much use from a prepping standpoint, but as an expedient shelter with a constant temperature they could have their uses.  

A bit about my background –   I have logged about 3,000 hours in caves during the past 5-6 years during which time I have been a ‘wild cave guide’ – meaning that I run tours through rugged and undeveloped caves – not the wheelchair accessible type.  I am also an active and trained member of the regional and national cave rescue organizations.   

The disclaimer:  Caves are inherently risky.  If you manage the risks properly, the danger level goes down, but if you ignore the risks they can be one of the most dangerous environments a person can enter into.  This danger chiefly arises from the darkness, the rugged terrain and from the remote nature of caves.  There is no recourse for help when in a cave – no cell, no 911 – except the people you have with you and the trip plan that you (hopefully) leave with a trusted loved or friend on the surface.   

That said, I love caves and think they are marvelous places.   Caves of any reasonable size are a constant temperature year round.  They generally take on the average temperature of the climate that they are located in.  Caves in the Bahamas are about 90 degrees Fahrenheit while others in the Rockies can be 30-40 or below freezing.  Some caves have permafrost – a relic of glaciations.  Practically every cave has critters, usually in the form of wood-rats, bats, or bugs (like cockroaches in warmer climates).  

Most mine shafts would have the same characteristics of caves, unless they are particularly deep, in which case they can get very warm.  

You might have difficulty finding resources on cave locations, because cavers are tight-lipped and keep their cards close.  That is because they have been burned time and time again by some bozo learning where a cave is and partying/spray painting and trashing the place.  Particularly at risk are the speleothems – the stalactites and stalagmites and so forth.  They take many, many, many years to form and a careless second to be destroyed.  They are irreplaceable.  But this thing called the Internet was invented and it seems to be great at searching out information and disseminating it to all.  Treat the caves you find with respect, I beg you.  

Clubs:  The best place is your local ‘grotto’ of the National Speleological Society (NSS).  Membership is inexpensive, their training is top notch and if you show them you are responsible they will open wide the gates for your area.  In Canada there are equivalent regional caving organizations.  Just about every nation in the western world has a caving organization.  Caving clubs also survey and map every cave they find, usually to a very high standard.  A map (or “survey”) is indispensable.  

Publications:  Books like “Caves of Montana” are usually outdated, as the caving clubs lobbied governments in the 1980s to keep from disclosing new caves that are discovered due to conservation concerns (the bozos I mentioned earlier).  The caves are still there, but access may have changed.  Topographic maps will give you cave locations that were discovered long ago – but the caves are still there.  They are also the best source I know for local mine shaft and adit locations.  There is such a thing as ‘Mine Exploration’ that is becoming more popular (‘Mine Ex’ or ‘MinEx/MinX’).  Mines are often an order of magnitude more dangerous than caves due to unstable and loose rock from the mining and blasting process.  Mines cave-in, but caves don’t.  

Internet:  There are a number of sites where cave locations are posted, usually by amateurs, such as Facebook or personal web pages.  Seek and ye shall find.  There are also several good kml files for Google Earth that users have created.  

Check land ownership and BLM, National Forest or other governing bodies before traipsing out to a cave – there are often restrictions for environmental conservation, such as endangered hibernating bats, and some caves have seasonal restrictions on them.  

From a prepping standpoint, I have cached first aid and hypothermia treatment equipment in caves, bundled in garbage bags and stuffed in five gallon buckets and covered with rocks.  We check it yearly for any problems and in the past 10 years or so have had none.  I can’t say it would be the same if the buckets smell like food, though, as the critters have sharp teeth and nothing but time on their hands.  Caves are also usually very, very humid – up to 99% humidity in some.  So keep that in mind.  And they are, again, generally public.  So you might get pilfered by the five-fingered bipedal rats, too, if you’re thinking of storing anything in a cave.  

Above all be careful.  Join the NSS or local caving club and learn the risks and how to deal with them before you go.  Please, please, please.  The last thing I want is to hear of another cave-related fatality in the news. – E.B.

 

Hi Jim,
The geological term for areas that have natural underground caves and passage ways is Karst, A German named Karst first described these areas where this type of underground passages exist. It is called Karst Topography. Usually found in geological formations that can be dissolved away with rainwater. Such as limestone and alabaster [gypsum] formations.  

Use a search engine to locate areas of Karst Topography. This kind of topography often shows up on topographic maps if you know what to look for. Areas of Karst Topography that are aged will have many of the structures collapsed. This creates a number of large “dimples” on the surface. The topographic maps will show the larger ones with a broken topographic line indicating it is a lower elevation than the surrounding area. In northwestern Oklahoma north of Woodward and Mooreland is a vast area of Karst Topography. There is an natural underground cave system called Alabaster Caverns State Park north of Moorland.  

You may want to use a search engine to locate alabaster caves also.   I have explored a group of these caves on private property north of Woodward. Most of the Karst Topography in that area is private property. Never came across snakes, coons, possums, bobcats, dogs, cats, insects, rats and other rodents in the caves. However I did encounter large colonies of bats. Many many of them banded with metal leg strips that were different colors, sizes and evidently from differing study groups. Quantities of guano on the floor in some places. Bats carry diseases that can be transmitted to humans.   Be aware that caves formed in alabaster may contain water that looks clear and fresh. This is what is called “gyp” water. Dissolved gypsum which is a superlative transbowel movement piece of music set to moans and flatulence if you mistakenly drink it. It will produce an ovature of movement of feces that may be uncontrollable.

In the Malpai areas of New Mexico exist large lava tunnels and caves created when air bubbles were formed in the molten lava. But this type of geological structure is rare and confined only to areas of Malpai [lava runs on the surface] Karst Topography is much more common.   Cordially, – J.W.C.

JWR Adds: There are also large lava tubes in Hawaii and in the Pacific Northwest, but most of them are very well-known.

Hi Jim,  
Robert R. asked about resources for locating caves, mine shafts or other underground shelters.  I don’t have such a resource to offer but would like to point out that many such excavations and formations are on private property and it is unlikely that he will be welcome in the event the SHTF.   

We have a hundred year old horizontal mine shaft (10’w x 7’h) that goes about 500 feet into a mountain on our retreat property.  It borders National Forest land and most who climb the mountain probably assume it is public land. It’s not, and neither is the mountain.  I’m quite certain a lot of folks have decided that’s where they will go if the balloon goes up.  They will be met with the stark reality that it’s not theirs and they will be removed using whatever level of force they make necessary.   Best, – Matt R.

JWR Replies: As previously discussed in SurvivalBlog, there are precious few caves or horizontal mine tunnels on public land that don’t fall into any these categories: 1.) Sealed-off, 2.) Well-known, or 3.) Seasonally restricted. In essence, “secret caves”are just about mythical. I suppose that given lots of research, scouting, and logistical planning, there could be some utility in short-term use by families or small groups in the event of a nuclear event. But don’t be surprised if someone else has the same idea for the cave or mine shaft that you have in mind.

Letter Re: Some Investment Options for the Prepper

JWR:
Regarding the article “Some Investment Options for the Prepper”, K.P. suggested: “Real Estate Rentals – Buying real estate now? Are you crazy? No, not at all.”

No, K.P. isn’t crazy, but I believe that he is uninformed.

For many decades I have been bullish on real estate, but the rules have changed, and this time those changes are permanent and come with very serious consequences for those who hold a mortgage. Details of “The forever mortgage” were quickly spelled out, and then any information of “The forever mortgage” disappeared as quickly as it appeared.

Real estate is great and offers so many more advantages than any other investment vehicle but the rules have changed!

Please, please, please do not buy investment real estate in this market! If you think the prices are great right now just wait until next fall! The prices will be yet lower, and those new rules hiding in the shadows are a friend to no investor.

We had a beautiful view home and the sale of that home came with much anguish but at that time (December of 2009) we knew we were doing the right thing. The house sold for an unbelievably low price, but today the price would be even lower, and now sometime before closing the lender would not even grant the loan.

Real estate is not selling, the prices are still dropping, and new rules will strip away many benefits, and chain you to a mortgage forever.

I always want to own, and despise renting, but the truth is that in any but the best markets it is actually cheaper to rent than own.

One last thing. The word “mortgage” means to engage, or pledge till death. This time our government really means it! – Rick

Economics and Investing:

Reader Linda U. sent this: Five Things that Will Happen to You When America Goes Bankrupt

Pierre M. spotted this: Faux job numbers could lead to real trouble

G.G. suggested this piece: How Safe Is Your Roth IRA?

Also from G.G.: Charles Plosser and the 50% Contraction in the Fed’s Balance Sheet

G.P. recommended this New York Post article: Taxpayers foot $850M bill for Wall St.’s pension fees

Items from The Economatrix:

Stocks Edge Higher on Better Economic Data

Fed Survey: US Economy Improves in Spring

Oil Falls as Hopes Grow for Libyan Cease-fire

Gold Advances to Record on Weakening Dollar; Silver Tops $40

Odds ‘n Sods:

Trapper Mike sent this: Future farm: a sunless, rainless room indoors

   o o o

Pierre M. sent us a link to an interesting site on van modifications–showing real world experience with both four wheel drive and photovoltaic power systems.

   o o o

Bill in Virginia sent this: Hanging out at the Sensible Preppers Conference (in South Carolina.)

   o o o

F.H. recommended this article: North Dakota the First to Pass New Tactic Against Federal Debt

   o o o

G.G. liked this one: Feral chickens have proliferated in New Orleans since Hurricane Katrina

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"If, from the more wretched parts of the old world, we look at those which are in an advanced stage of improvement, we still find the greedy hand of government thrusting itself into every corner and crevice of industry, and grasping the spoil of the multitude. Invention is continually exercised, to furnish new pretenses for revenues and taxation. It watches prosperity as its prey and permits none to escape without tribute." – Thomas Paine, Rights of Man, 1791