Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Living in a Small Town – An Australian Perspective, by Margaret G.

For those of you who are contemplating leaving the city and moving to a small country town, there are quite a few differences that you and your lifestyle should take into account if your new life is to be a happy one. Small towns don’t change too much no matter what country you live in. I live in Australia.

I’m retired after working with a variety of state and local government departments over the years. I’ve chosen to live in an old stone church on about an acre of land in a small town of about two hundred people in a predominantly wheat growing district. After leaving home for my first job, I’ve chosen never to live in a city – visit, yes; live, no.
Don’t get me wrong, I like living by myself and after all these years I’m used to living in small towns.

But for those of you who decide to take The Big Step, there are a few things that you may need to be aware of that probably didn’t apply to life in the city.

Fitting In
It’s all very well buying a place in the country and planning to put into practice the skills you’ve been acquiring on a small scale.
But becoming a real part of a community can be a bit trickier. You are a new-comer in a town where probably nearly everyone is related to some degree. I knew how to cope with this from my previous working life – be friendly but not familiar. People will try to find out all about you (and I mean all about you). I’ve always preferred being selective about giving out personal information and opinions and I keep my eyes and ears open and my mouth shut.
Eventually you will find a circle of friends with whom you are comfortable and you may choose to be more forthcoming with them. Note that is still your choice about what information you divulge.
I found it useful to work out a few answers in advance. The one I was asked most often was “Why did you choose to live here and not somewhere else?
I could say with all honesty, “I was born in this state, I still have friends only two hours up the road, I have relatives two hours down the road and my son is three hours away so it’s nice and central”.
The only major thing the enquirer learned from that answer is that I have a son.

Those of you with a spouse and children may find it easier to acquire a wider circle of acquaintances more quickly than a single person because you will be meeting people from a wider range of organisations.

I have not spread it about that I’m a prepper although many people know that I grow my own veg (I’m mostly vegetarian and I give away lots), I bottle and preserve my produce (but so do many country people) and I re-use and recycle where possible (being environmentally friendly). They can’t miss the 55,000 litre rainwater tank I’ve had installed and plumbed though (the cost of water is increasing and I’m drought-proofing my garden) and they won’t miss my solar panels next month (the cost of electricity is increasing). They’ve all watched the progress I’m making with building my chook house (most country people keep chickens).  All perfectly logical and plausible reasons.

Skills
No matter how well prepared you may think you are I’m sure that you will come across a situation peculiar to your chosen area that will require you to do things differently from what ‘the book’ recommended.
Be prepared to admit that you can’t do something or you know nothing about it and be willing to accept advice from the locals. As you mix and mingle, gradually you will be let in on where the best fishing spots are, who catches game that you can swap something for, who has the skills that you don’t yet have.
I don’t have a chain saw and I admit they frighten me. My neighbours (Bless them!) drop off a load of wood periodically. In return I pass vegetables on to them, help with computer glitches and feed the animals when they are away.
I have enough farming friends so that I can access bulk supplies of wheat and chick peas in a swap situation.
I can’t weld, but I make sure I patronise the local fellow for any jobs I need doing – and pay promptly. I don’t want to get a reputation as a slow payer with city attitudes. No-one in a small town is anonymous.

When it comes to outside work occasionally a job comes up where two hands are just not enough or I just don’t have the physical strength to tackle it.
Thanks to the contacts and friendships I’ve made, I know I can ask someone for help and that help will be given freely. One day I came home with a big round bale of mulching hay in the trailer and found that there was no way on earth that I was going to get it off by myself. Either it became a permanent attachment or I swallowed my pride and asked for a friend’s husband for help. I chose the latter option.

After your move to a small town another thing you may have to cultivate is patience.
Not only do seeds not appear overnight, neither do tradesmen or parts. This is another reason to stock up on anything and everything. After a meltdown when (or if) materiel becomes available again, which town will be supplied first – the big regional centre or my town of 200 people?
This is why you will end up with skills that you didn’t even know you were capable of.

Health
Much has already been written about the importance of keeping healthy. People far more qualified than I, have written excellent articles for your education.
But I’d like, (albeit reluctantly) to take it one step further.
Because I live alone these are some questions I’ve had to think about and for which I’ve had to try to find workable solutions.
My answers will be very different from yours because of your own individual circumstances.  And again, I live in a small town not out in the middle of no-where.
How are you going to contact someone in an emergency especially if the phones are down?
Who are you going to contact?
How will a friend/neighbour/relative know that you have died – especially if you live alone?

It’s impossible here to go into all scenarios but remember too that a small town hospital (if you are lucky enough to have one) will not have the latest and greatest equipment but will do the absolute best they can for you before flying you out.

And that opens up another set of preparations:
Who will feed your livestock if you are incapacitated or flown out?
Who will keep an eye on your property and possessions?
Who will contact your next of kin?

It’s a case of the old saying again: Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst.

Offer to Assist
Throughout my working life in small towns, it was necessary that I knew people and they knew me. I accepted invitations to every meeting for which I received an invitation. That way I got to know who was who, who talked a lot but did little, the local gossip (important so that I didn’t put my foot in the wrong place and embarrass my employer) and who the appropriate person was to speak with about a particular issue.

Now that I don’t have to have such a high profile but still want to be involved with my chosen community the easiest way was to turn up at all community events, meetings and working bees.
After a while I got to know enough to make an informed decision about which organisations I would like to be involved with.
I chose to become involved with the Development Board because of my background and that was where my skills would be most useful. I now get requests for help with spread sheets, forms and grant applications.
There is another answer-in-advance you may wish to work on – how to decline gracefully and diplomatically numerous committee positions for which you will be nominated. I got around that by saying, “Thank you for thinking of me but as a new-comer I don’t feel qualified as yet. I’ll be glad to help where possible but I don’t feel that I should accept a committee position”.
As a newcomer it is “baby steps” all the way and showing a willingness to help where possible.  

I’ve always loved small towns and the close ties I am able to make with people and I’m sure you will enjoy the closeness that comes from living and working in a small community.



Pat’s Product Reviews: Benchmade Marc Lee “Glory” Knife

Pat’s Product Reviews: Benchmade Marc Lee “Glory” Knife

Make no mistake, I like big knives. I don’t care if they are folders or fixed blade knives, I like mine big. I’ve found over the years, that a big knife can do more than a little knife can, in most situations. Don’t get me wrong, small knives have their place, too. However, I’ve just found that a big knife can do just about all I ask of it on a daily basis.   The new Benchmade Knives, Marc Lee “Glory” Knife, was made to commemorate US Navy SEAL, Marc Lee, who was the first SEAL to lose his life in Iraq. This touched home to me, as I live in Oregon, and that’s where Marc Lee was from. I’m saddened anytime I hear of one of our brave military personnel losing their life, but even more so, when it’s an Oregonian! Marc’s valorous conduct, exemplary leadership and extraordinary self-sacrifice for his fellow service members, have earned him the highest respect and gratitude of his fellow SEALs and the US Navy, and our nation. A portion of the proceeds from every knife sold will be donated to the Marc Lee Foundation.  

The Marc Lee “Glory” Knife is a big fixed blade knife, with a 7.30″ long blade, that is 0.190″ thick. The knife weighs 10.10 ounces. For such a big knife, it’s very fast in the hand. The blade material is 154CM, one of my all-time favorite stainless steels – at one time, used exclusively by custom knife makers. With a 58-61 Rockwell hardness (Rc), the blade will hold an edge a good long time, too. As for the blade itself, it has a recurve to it – meaning, it actually has a longer cutting surface than you think it has.  

The handle scales on the “Glory” Knife are made out of super-tough G10, and are coyote tan colored, to go along with the ballistic Nylon coyote tan colored sheath – that is lined, so the knife won’t poke through. The sheath is MOLLE compatible, too, and will fit on a tactical assault vest, as well as on a pistol belt. Overall length of the “Glory” Knife is 12.50″ – it’s a good sized knife, to be sure. The G10 handle scales are textured and will provide an outstanding grip under any circumstances you might run into, in the field. The blade is also black coated, for non-reflectivity.  

I found my “Glory” sample to be more of a slasher, as opposed to a stabber. Oh, that’s not to say, the knife can’t be used for stabbing. However, it is better suited for slashing, digging and other everyday field chores you might run into. I don’t have a problem with this, as most knives carried afield, be it in combat or a survival situation, are used more for chores, than they are in combat. The knife will hold its own in a combat situation, though.  

The butt end of the knife also has a lanyard hold, but no lanyard was include. There is some tan 550 para cord on the bottom of the sheath, and you could remove it and place it on the knife if you’d like. I think Benchmade should have included a length of 550 para cord on the butt of the knife, in the lanyard hole – just my two-cents worth.   If you need an emergency digging tool, the “Glory” Knife can fill that need. It’s also a great chopper, if you have to clear brush or chop wood for a sniper’s blind, too. The knife balances extremely well in the hand, and that’s important in any knife I select. If a knife doesn’t feel just right in my hand, I’m probably not gonna carry it afield.  

You can also choke-up on the knife if you need more precision – you simply move your fore finger onto a groove on the lower portion of the blade, which was designed for a hold like this. There is also a raised thumb placement on the top of the blade, for use in the fencing grip, too.   I wish I could say I packed this knife around on my hip for several weeks, but I didn’t. I don’t need to carry a fixed blade knife on a daily basis in order to evaluate it. I did do some field testing, though. We have a lot of blackberry bushes in Oregon – a plant that was not native to this state. While I, and my family, love blackberries, it’s a constant chore keeping the blackberry vines in check. In case you didn’t know it, blackberry vines are tough, real tough. The Marc Lee “Glory” Knife made quick work of chopping off the blackberry vines to keep them in check – that says a lot to me. I did some light chopping on some tree branches, too – again, as I mentioned above, this knife is a better chopper than a stabber.  

As with all good things, the Marc Lee “Glory” Knife is high-quality, and quality never comes cheap. The full retail price on this knife is $350 – and they are actually very hard to find. Lots of knife collectors are buying ’em and putting ’em in their collection – never to be used. There is also a limited collectible version of this knife, and that’s $1,000 – if you’re into collecting knives, and I’m sure it will only rise in value over the years.  

I showed my sample “Glory” Knife around to a lot of folks, and they all liked the way it felt – no one had any negative comments about the knife, and that’s unusual in my neck of the woods.   – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Two Letters Re: Small Campstove Cooking

Sir,
I read R.E.’s article on Small Campstove Cooking with interest. Thank you. I’ve tried a few as well varieties of stoves as well and to date my favorite is the Littlbug. It’s sturdy, stainless steel, comes in two sizes, folds up, it has some adjustments, and can burn solid fuels or twigs very efficiently. Twigs removing the need to carry fuel. Blessings, – Steve B.

Jim,  
Just a quick note about a comment R.E. made in his article: “Whether a stove unsafe for a small tent would be safe in a home is uncertain. Just remember that carbon monoxide (CO) is lighter than air.”  Carbon monoxide is only very slightly less dense than air (1.145 g/l^-1 for CO versus 1.184g/l^-1 for air – a smaller difference than there is between oxygen and nitrogen).  It is not light enough that you can expect it to rise to and collect at the ceiling or in upper levels of a structure and in a home CO will mix homogeneously with air.  My intention isn’t to ding R.E. but to make sure that folks don’t get the idea that sleeping on the floor would make them safer while using an inefficient heater or other CO source.   – Matt R.



Letter Re: Increasing Home Propane Tank Capacity

James:

I thought I would pass this along-Last night I received a call from my propane provider. They call every year about this time asking if you want to fill your tank. The person was saying that prices were low this time of year .I have a 250 gallon tank and only use around a 100 gallons a year. I said yes and inquired about getting a 500 gallon tank. They said there  was only a $79 tank change fee. I know that each tank only holds 80 percent of tanks stated capacity, so a 250 gallon tank holds around 200 gallons. This is a two-year supply for me. I have a 6-burner cooktop and fireplace logs and am lucky to live in a mild winter area. It got me thinking this may be a good time to change to a bigger tank and increase my propane capacity to 400 gallons (four years).We don’t know what the future holds, what the price or availability of fuels will be,or what our finances may be in the future. This will enable me to breath a little easier and sleep a little better. Just a heads up to the people like me who are preparing. – Rob M.

JWR Replies: My general preference is to purchase rather than lease a propane tank. The total cost is lower in the long run (assuming you own a house for 12+ years). The other advantage is that if you own your own tank you can buy propane from any local vendor. That way you can “shop by phone” for the lowest delivered price. If you plan to have a propane cooking range, a propane hot water heater, a propane chest freezer, and a few propane lights, I recommend getting at least a 500 gallon tank. Underground tanks provide better OPSEC, as well as better protection from brushfires and small arms fire.



Economics and Investing:

At The Daily Bell: Dollar Replacement Beat Goes On … and On

Downgrading of U.S. Credit Rating Just Tip of the Iceberg

John R. suggested this: Debts Just Don’t Disappear

Also from John, some commentary by Gordon T. Long: Bernanke’s QEx Box

Meredith sent this: It’s Official: China Will Be Dumping US Dollars

Items from The Economatrix:

Unemployment Falls in Two-Thirds of US States

New Home Construction Increases 7.2% in March

Fears of Greek Debt Default Hit Markets

Investors Drove Home Sales Up 3.7% in March. (Yes, but for a reality check, look at this price chart.)





Odds ‘n Sods:

Science fiction writer David Brin (the author of The Postman) offers his observations on societal fragility: Our Worst Frailty: An Electro Magnetic “Hit”. (Thanks to G.G.)

   o o o

Dateline: Nanny State, New York: Summer Camp Tag, Wiffle Ball Will Come With a Warning, Thanks to New York Politicians. “Camps that want campers to play the games will be required to pay a $200 registration fee and have medical staff on hand.” (Thanks to Eric B. for the link.)

   o o o

B. sent a link to a video about the only remaining B-29 Superfortress that is still flying: Fifi Flies Again.

   o o o

Reader G.J. wrote to mention that there was some debate at his local retreat group’s recent meeting about where the Rawles Ranch is located, and he asked me for a hint. Sorry, but I’m not telling. That is a secret on a par with Mount Yamantau.

   o o o

“Atlas Shrugged” box office success stuns liberal Hollywood. (A tip of the hat to Marilyn R. for the link.)





Note from JWR:

Today we present another two entries for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Small Campstove Cooking, by R.E.

There are situations where the difference between a hot meal and a cold one is literally life and death. A hot meal can stave off hypothermia, and bringing food to boiling can prevent disease. Fire is good, and using fire to cook is better.

I used to do a lot of camping and hiking, and have vague ambitions of returning to those pursuits. Because of that, and because I like having alternate means for important resources, over the past year I have been doing a lot of research into methods of heating food and drinks when away from utilities… or when utilities fail.

This was brought home to me, personally, during a recent five hour blackout which hit my county and two adjacent. Adding to the problems the situation caused, this was late on a very cold Winter night.

My neighborhood has long had problems with the electrical supply. Things are much better now, since the utility company came through and upgraded much of the equipment a few years ago. However, we still have brief blackouts – usually only a few minutes – a couple of times a year, with occasional longer outages. This, though, was a record, in both duration and geographic extent.

Because of the recurring outages in my neighborhood, many people around here were well equipped with candles and kerosene heaters during the big blackout. However, I had candles, a pair of Aladdin kerosene mantle lamps, a natural gas mantle lamp rated for indoor use – mounted to a wall in the basement – a Kerosun kerosene heater (which doubles as a stove), and a neat little folding camp stove. I fueled the kerosene heater, put it on the basement floor and lit it. I also lit the natural gas mantle lamp. Upstairs, I had both kerosene lamps and four large candles going. Briefly, I also used the folding stove. When the power came back my upstairs temperature was still quite comfortable, having dropped only a few degrees in five hours on a very cold night.

Better, during that long outage, I was able to make a large mug of steaming hot tea. I put that camp stove on my kitchen range and used it to heat the water.

The folding stove – meant for camping and hiking – is made by Sterno. It’s steel, so it’s heavier than many folding stoves for the same use. However, it is sturdy, folds almost flat, and can be used with a wide variety of fuels. Using Sterno cans – there are some specifically intended for cooking, with a higher output than the tray warmers – it would still take quite a while to boil enough water for a bowl of soup or a mug of tea. However, the can holder in the bottom will also hold many other types of fuel containers. They can be found in many places, but the best prices I have located are on eBay. The stove usually comes with a couple of the Sterno camping fuel cans.

That cold, dark night I didn’t use the Sterno cans. Instead, I used the fuel can for a very clever little stove made for the Swiss Army, the M71. It burns hotter, for longer, with a cleaner flame, than any other canned heat I’ve tried. It has a re-closeable lid, and when you first open it there’s a thick aluminum seal you need to cut out. After use, simply put the cover back on. It comes with a springy steel sheet metal pot support which stores around the stove, and which in use fits in the groove inside the can’s top lip.

The M71 when used as intended is quite secure, very light and compact, and it produces a lot of heat at a high rate from its gel fuel. Prices vary widely for these, so shop around. These stoves come plastic wrapped with fuel canister, spring steel stove and a book of matches. The only caveat I know of is that if the thick gel fuel has bubbles those will pop from the heat. The fuel is so thick I’ve never seen it spatter when this happens, but it might. Oh, and the instructions are in Swedish.

Why didn’t I just use that little stove, instead of the the Sterno folding stove? Two reasons. First, the Sterno stove is much studier and more stable. Second, the folding stove holds the pot or pan higher above the flames, which allows more complete combustion. This reduces carbon monoxide production, and also fumes from unburned fuel.

Though the odor from the Swiss stuff is pretty mild, that doesn’t hold true for all canned fuels. Some have noticeable odor, as do some solid fuels. Whether the odor will be objectionable to a particular individual depends on the person and how enclosed the space. (Speaking of odor, that was one reason I didn’t heat the water for my tea on the Kerosun stove, with another being because it was too large to go easily on my kitchen range, and I didn’t feel like squatting over it on the basement floor.)

Speaking of fuel, alcohol – either liquid or gelled – is very popular for hiking and camping stoves. (Many canned heating units used gelled alcohol, but what I mean here is the separate alcohol gel fuel.) The gelled alcohol fuel I’ve seen is military surplus, in little olive-drab packets with instructions on one side and pithy bits of advice regarding military life and operations on the other. The gel is so thick it takes a bit of effort to squeeze out, but it also stays where you put it, even when burning. You can use it in any stove designed for fuel tabs, and some designed for fuel cans. Note that many alcohol fuels produce very little visible flame, which can be a problem with liquid fuels. A bit of spilled liquid fuel from filling a stove which ignites might not be noticed until it sets fire to something, or burns the user.

There are two types of solid fuel tabs I have experience with, both developed for military use but today having civilian versions. One of these is the US military’s trioxane. The other is the Esbit-type fuel tab. These – as well as the gel – burn vigorously, quickly bringing – as an example – a canteen cup of water to a boil. Both types have little odor (again, this will very by person and situation) leave little ash, and some formulations produce very little visible flame.

Other common fuels are Coleman/white gas (naphtha) and kerosene (for kerosene I am include a wide range of fuels, such as diesel and heater fuel, as well as dedicated lamp oil). Gasoline is rarely used, even though unleaded is no more dangerous than naphtha.

Kerosene, gasoline and naphtha have a bit higher energy density per unit mass and volume than the alcohols, but the difference is small. Surprisingly, the solid fuels have less energy than even alcohol per gram, though more per milliliter. Paraffin, beeswax and mixes are about the same as the more potent liquid fuels per gram, and more compact, but don’t really burn vigorously enough for practical cooking.

There are many camping stoves out there, of a wide variety of designs and using a number of different fuels. There are even flameless heaters, which depend on adding water to make them rust very, very fast. I live alone, so a small, single-burner stove is enough for emergencies. If you have a large family you may need something like a Coleman two-burner pressure fed stove using naphtha (white gas). These cook quickly, and are adjustable so you can simmer or warm with good control. You do have to pump them, though, and pay attention to the pressure.

Gas canister stoves use low-density fuels such as butane and propane, or a mix, in pressurized cans. They are often lighter than pressurized liquid fuel stoves. They – like the pressure stoves – produce intense heat and are also adjustable, making cooking easier and more flexible. Many canister stoves are specifically rated for use inside tents. (Keep in mind that the carbon monoxide ratings for camping stoves are for very enclosed spaces, such as tents. Whether a stove unsafe for a small tent would be safe in a home is uncertain. Just remember that CO is lighter than air.)

The Zip Stove has the disadvantage that it uses batteries, to drive a forced air fan. However, it has a major advantage over most camping stoves in that it uses available materials – such as twigs and pine needles – for fuel. While wood has too low an energy density to be worth carrying with you, dry wood is readily available most places people hike and camp, and you could easily stockpile some at your home. The forced draft of the Zip Stove makes fires easy to start and hotter burning, speeding cooking. Once it gets going good, it will even burn damp materials.

There is a compromise in stove design between adequate ventilation and keeping wind from blowing the heat away. Some stoves handle this better than others. Another reason I like the Sterno folding stove is that it includes a moveable front flap which can be used to adjust the airflow. Normally it would be fully closed to direct the convective flow of air upwards and help reflect heat, but if things are cooking a bit to fast you can open this to adjust the heat. Note that this is not a very large adjustment without a some wind to defend against.

In the very small category there are things such as the Vargo Outdoors Triad titanium stove, which only burns alcohol, and the Triad xe, which burns alcohol or fuel tabs or gel. Both are available for under $30. The Triad is about the size and shape of a can of shoe polish, and very, very light. Unfold the three legs and the identical (except for being on the top instead of the bottom) pot supports, add fuel, light and cook. Note that while the stoves are very small and extremely light, you still need to carry the fuel for them.

I have one of the multi-fuel Triad xe units, and it’s very interesting. There’s a center puck – normally held in the tray by the folded pot holder stems – which is used with alcohol. For solid fuel tabs or gel alcohol, simply remove the puck, put the fuel in the tray, light and cook. Using alcohol requires a bit more work. You twist the puck apart, producing a small pan and a vented cover. Fill the pan with alcohol, put the cover back on, put the puck in the tray, pour a little alcohol onto the puck to prime it and light. If you’ve done it right, by the time the outside alcohol has burned away the inside alcohol is hot enough to produce vapor.

Some folks actually make their own stoves similar to the Triad from aluminum soda or beer cans. I’m not that eager to save a few dollars in exchange for aluminum cuts. (Ouch.)

The folding WetFire stove is even smaller. It comes in steel and titanium versions, with the latter being the lighter (and more expensive). It has three flanges riveted to the bottom of a small tray. The tray is just slightly bigger than a fuel tab. The flanges unfold, pivoting around the central rivet, to form both legs for the stove and a stand for a pot or cup.

Several armies have military canteen cup stoves. These serve as both stove and cooking stand, take fuel tabs or gel, and when not in use fit around the base of the issue canteen cup, which in turn fits around the bottom of the canteen. There are both military surplus and civilian versions available. The limitation of these is that they are generally shaped to securely fit the canteen cup and nothing else.

A more generally useful military-originated stove is the Esbit. There are many versions besides the original, with different mixes of good and bad points. For example, Coghlan’s makes a version which isn’t quite as sturdy as the Esbit, but comes with more fuel. The Esbit was originally a WWII German Army stove, and is still in use by several militaries. Again there are both military surplus and civilian models. When folded closed it will store enough fuel tabs to heat over half a liter of water, depending on starting temperature. Somewhat larger than a deck of cards closed, it unfolds to hold the burner pan off the ground and support a pot or pan high enough for generally good combustion with fuel tabs or gel. There are even disposable Esbit stoves, which come flat in a package with some fuel tabs. Just fold the heavy foil into shape, add tabs and light.

Coghlan’s makes a folding stove which seems to be popular. It is cheaper than the Sterno folding stove, but is heavier, doesn’t block the wind as well and is shorter, allowing less distance between flame source and flame target. It also comes painted, which baffles me. When you first use one of the Coghlan’s stoves you smell the burned paint. Substantial use is required before enough of this burns off that you don’t get the odor. The Sterno stove is scent-free. However, the Coghlan’s stove has a burning tray which will hold canned heat, fuel tabs or gelled alcohol.

This short article barely scratches the surface of the topic. There’s a huge variety of portable stoves out there, of many different brands, for any sort of cooking. Whether for hiking, cooking at a campground or preparing meals during an emergency; for yourself, your immediate family or your entire block; whether fancy or simple; there’s something for everyone. Tailgate party-goers bring entire kitchens, including portable barbecue rigs. There are even portable electric stoves and ovens, if you have a generator or are at a campground with utilities. Prices range from literally $2.50 to hundreds of dollars. Everyone should have at least something for emergencies. As noted here, this doesn’t have to be expensive or difficult.



Sign-Cutting and OPSEC, by Infidel

In my line of work, if you are tracking someone, you are always behind them.  The only way to catch them is to run and that creates it’s own set of dangers.  

Sign-cutting is finding a track or “sign”, using human nature, the terrain and the environment to get ahead of the people you are tracking and waiting for them.  It is about being students of terrain, the environment you are in, and human nature.  

Let me break this down for you:  

Human Nature – Most people will not walk a strenuous path.  They will follow fence-lines, gulleys, ditches, game trails and possibly even snowmobile or quad trails  (I think the latter would be rare but they would make great escape routes).  They will not walk over hills or hummocks.  They will not walk against a furrowed field for very long.  Generally, people will follow the easiest path available in the general direction they wish to travel.  Of course there are exceptions to every rule.  Professionals will take the harder road because again, human nature, will lull you into thinking nobody will climb over that hill to get you!  One last type of person, the sheeple, will obviously follow the roads.  

The Environment – When traveling at night, humans will likely key in on an environmental feature, antenna light, airport strobe, city lights, lampposts, anything that is visible to be their guide, while still following human nature.  During the daytime the above features plus sounds can be added.  Don’t forget smoke from chimneys or fires will also be used by people as a visual guide during the day.  Weather will also play a role here, mainly in aging your sign but it may also slow down the group you are after.  

The Terrain – This is one of the most important aspects of this craft.  You must know the surrounding terrain, at least 1 mile beyond your retreat property.  Topo maps are a great second choice for this.  I like the DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer state topo map books. (I have no affiliation, I just use them.)  But nothing beats feet on the ground.  Know the ranch or farm roads, the fence lines, the private access roads, etc.  Plot these on your maps.  Use a GPS to get accurate locations.  Don’t forget to check your environment at night.  Look for “guiding lights”.  This is a great opportunity to get in shape hiking the countryside.  You can also GPS fence lines from dirt roads as well.  County Platt books help in establishing fence lines and boundaries also.   The main idea here is to know the terrain so you can accurately predict routes that people will likely follow (or plan your escape route to avoid other groups) using the things stated in the Human Nature heading.   Another important reason for knowing the terrain is that you can reliably determine the route the individual/group is going to take.  This is why it is essential you know your area.  For instance, you found footprints walking south at the north end of John B’s fence line and you know that John B’s fence line intersects Road A, 3 miles south of your current location.  Knowing the property around that fence line to be predominantly swampy, you can accurately guess that the subject that made those tracks will be staying on the fence line.  So if you wished to intercept the subject, you would drive to Road A and park a distance from the fence line, stealthily move to the fence line and check for the exact same footprints you saw earlier (having memorized the pattern and any peculiarities of that pattern).  If you see them continue on, if you do not find them there, it’s a good possibility that you are ahead of the subject and can find a good vantage point and wait.  That in a nutshell is sign cutting.  

The Sign – Yes, this is just a footprint, but it can tell you so much.  It can tell you if the subject was running, walking, limping, tired, type of footwear, direction of travel and how many people are in the group.   To become proficient you must practice.  The easiest way is to find an area of bare earth.  Use an area that has the same type of soil as the majority of your property.  Clear it and rake it smooth.  Walk a straight line everyday for a week using the same footwear.  Make these trails side by side about a foot or two apart (pun intended).  Keep track of the weather for that week also, dew, rain, wind, etc.  Hopefully, you will have had dry weather for the week.  If not, it just got a little tougher.  Compare the edges of the prints.  Look to see how defined the new ones are and how the print edges degrade over time and weather.  Refer to your weather notes when looking at the sign.  Look at the indentation of the heels and toe.  The heel is usually sharp and deep.  The foot then rolls flat and up onto the toe as the step progresses.  At the finish of the step, there is usually a little dirt “kickup” just behind the toe print as the footwear leaves the ground for the next step.  

Once you think you are good at judging tracks.  Have a friend lay these same tracks but mix up where he walks them in the area.  Make sure he keeps a good drawing of when and where he walked.  You keep track of the weather for the time period.  Now go out at the end of the week and judge the age of the tracks.  Tell your friend when you think he laid(walked) what track and see if you are right.  Don’t get discouraged.  This takes awhile to learn.  Once you have this down fairly well, add rain, grass, etc.  Remember; don’t set yourself up for failure.  Add one element at a time, use soft soils until you get the technique.  

There are two types of running prints, the toe runner, this usually indicates sprinting meaning the subject heard you coming, saw you or got nervous about something.  These types of track usually only have toe prints.  They are deep and have a lot of kickup.  They usually progress into the next type of track due to fatigue.   I call the next type of runner the loper.  He is in for the long haul.  You will usually see a deep heel impression which may be partially filled in by the large kickup as his toe pushes off for the next step.   A tired person will usually drag their feet and these drag lines will be visible.  They usually are made by the toe and may come and go depending upon the age and level of fatigue of the individual.  You may see one at either foot or on both feet.  It can also look like a scuff mark made by sliding the whole shoe.  A limp will have two different types of tracks with the same footwear.  Usually the injured leg has a flat track with no heel depression or toe kick and it may have significant drag marks.  

Type of footwear comes with knowing what tread patterns look like.  I try to concentrate on remembering military style soles so I know who I am following.  

There are the crafty individuals who will attempt to “brush out” their tracks.  They will use a piece of cloth or brush to “sweep” the area in an attempt to cover their tracks.  This is obvious once you know what to look for (prep for this by “brushing out” your own tracks).  You can also avoid falling for these by not looking at just intersections for tracks.  Check up and down both lines of the intersection at least 20-30 feet.  

Sign-cutting is a craft.  I cannot stress highly enough that you must know the terrain you are in to be effective.  Knowing the age of the sign alone is not enough.  How people move is important.  Take a walk in the woods with friends.  Watch how people move through the terrain.  Which routes do they pick? How do they move through dense brush?  A park is perfect for watching people move through various types of terrain.  Where I live I have parks with steep ravines, rivers and large boulders.  You can see how people avoid hard trails and pick the path of least resistance.                

So, how does this play into operational security (OPSEC)?  First, having learned how people usually move, do the opposite.  The professionals do so must you.  Another point is knowing how people move, you know which routes to expect visitors from and you will be able to tell how many people went by, how long ago and what was their direction of travel and even more so, whether they stopped and watched or not.  Always watch for tripwires and ambushes.  the professionals know all this stuff and will be prepared to cover their back trail.   Stay safe, Stay alive.



Letter Re: Harry Figgie Was Right — Just Very Early

Mr. Rawles,  
I pulled out my copy of Bankruptcy 1995: The Coming Collapse of America and How to Stop It by Harry E. Figgie, Jr. and discovered on pp. 85-87 three warning signs that the US is headed for what Mr. Figgie calls a “deep, deep depression.” They are:   

  • Tax revenue is no longer sufficient to service the debt;   
  • Substantial government debt is purchased by the Federal Reserve; and   
  • Congress and the administration not only fail to address mounting deficits but make the situation worse.  

The book is copyrighted 1992. It would appear Mr. Figgie was off by about 16 years.  

It is time to take another look at preps, snug down the seat belts, and make sure seat backs and trays are in an upright and locked position.   Wishing you and yours all the best. – Home’s Cool Mom

JWR Replies: I concur! By the way, the second item “Substantial government debt is purchased by the Federal Reserve” is a practice commonly called monetization, or in the current parlance “Quantitative Easing.” Get ready, folks!



Economics and Investing:

I’m sure you’ve noticed that US Dollar Index is down to 74.4, spot gold is up to $1,507 per ounce, and spot silver is at $45.89. As I’ve been warning you since September of 2005: Get out of U.S. Dollars and into useful tangibles! If you feel that you’ve missed the boat on precious metals, then buy guns and common caliber ammunition while they are still affordable. I suspect that they won’t be affordable (in U.S. Dollar terms) in a couple of years. Also, be forewarned: The COMEX Governors are soon likely to slam on the brakes on the precious metals markets by changing their trading rules. (Most likely by raising margin requirements.) Prices will get very volatile. Be ready to take advantage of any steep sell-offs.

J.D.D. forwarded this: Balancing Budgets on Drivers’ Backs

Eric B. sent this: Asian Investors Risk Losses on Dollar Holdings After S&P Outlook Cut

Reader “AmEx” flagged this: Gold-Shortage Threat Drives Texas Schools Hoarding 664,000 Ounces at HSBC. If just 10% of futures contract buyers start demanding physical delivery, then there will be a monumental shortage.

G.G. offered this: U.S. corn reserves may hit 15-year low

The best currency is gold and silver, says Marc Faber. (A hat tip to B.B. for the link.)

Count On It! This is an article about raising the debt ceiling. OBTW, if they keep raising it so consistently, why do they still call it a ‘ceiling’? Perhaps they should more properly call it an elevator.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Five Years From US Housing Peak, Still No Bottom

10 US Housing Markets at Risk of a Major Collapse

J&J Lead Dow Stocks Higher

Sell-off Spreads to Asia After S&P Downgrades US Debt

S&P’s Ratings Warning is a Small Step, But a Giant Leap in Every Other Sense



Odds ‘n Sods:

Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large) sent this: Stuff To Consider When Planning For SHTF Scenarios.

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Reader F.G. suggested this: Earth Class Mail – Best Mail Forwarding Service So Get A Ghost Address

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Dan S. recommend this article: Banning Guns by Changing Definitions, Part 4

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For those of you who are news junkies, bookmark this one: The InnoPlexION

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When the drug you need to cure a cancer is nowhere to be found. (Thanks to F.D. for the link.)