Matt R. sent this: Greece default fears rise as reprofiling talk flounders
Deputies confiscate 250 pounds of copper during exchange
Bank of America to give away houses. (Thanks to KAF for the link.)
Kirk Elliot puts the unemployment rate in proper perspective.
Items from The Economatrix:
What Destroyed Rome Was Its Unfunded Government Employee Pensions
US Stocks Plunge On European Debt Worries
Paulette suggested this: Beginner Basics: Fitting a Backpack
o o o
More Nanny Statism: USDA fines family four million dollars for selling bunny rabbits. Thanks to Dann for the link.
o o o
Some pointed humor, over at the Paratus Familia blog: Patient Zero
o o o
Loyal content contributor F.G. flagged this: Armed With Stone-Tipped Arrows, Hunters Stalk Their Inner Cave Men
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition to put moral chains upon their own appetites. … Society cannot exist unless a controlling power upon will and appetite be placed somewhere, and the less of it there is within, the more there must be without. It is ordained in the eternal constitution of things, that men of intemperate minds cannot be free. Their passions forge their fetters." – Edmund Burke
My interview on Saturday May 21st, 2011 with Barbara Simpson on KSFO is now available as a streaming audio here. Click on the 6-7 p.m. hour. It will only be available for the next five days.
I like big knives, folders or fixed blade models. I’ve found over the years that, you can accomplish more tasks with a big knife, than you can with a smaller knife. Of course, that’s not to say that, small knives don’t have their place – they do! My personal preference is for bigger knives, and one reason I like bigger knives is that they are usually built stronger. I was on-board when Kershaw Knives started their new ZT Division. The ZT stands for “Zero Tolerance”. And, I’ve toured the Kershaw plant several times, to know that, Kershaw has a zero tolerance policy when it comes to making outstanding blades. If the knife doesn’t stand up to the Kershaw quality control, it doesn’t leave the factory. Way back when, I did a shop tour of Kershaw’s operation – when they were much smaller than they are today. Kershaw had one gal, who’s sole job was to do a final inspection on each knife before it was boxed-up and shipped out. I found many knives sitting in a bin that didn’t pass muster. And, I couldn’t find any flaws in the knives I was looking at, until she pointed them out to me. Most were simply cosmetic flaws of some type. Today, Kershaw has a small army of employees that check each and every knife before it leaves the factory. At any point along the production line, an employee can pull a knife and send it on it’s way to the reject bin.
Kershaw is in a new plant – a huge plant – and they turn out (well, okay I promised not to tell) a “lot” of knives each month. When Kershaw moved into their new plant, they were already making plans for expanding the operation – I have to get up there for another tour of the place one of these days. The ZT Division of Kershaw was started for the sole reason of producing military-grade cutlery for our troops, as well as law enforcement personnel, who demand and expect a little bit “more” than the usual. To this end, ZT is producing some extremely tough fixed blade and folding knives – some would call ’em U.S. Marine tough – and I don’t have a problem with that. If you want something broken, then give it to a U.S. Marine, and if there’s a way to break it – they’ll figure it out. I’ve tested quite a few ZT knives since Kershaw started this division, and I’ve been impress with the toughness of these knives. One particular folder really caught my attention. It’s the Model 0300 – that’s it – no name, just a model number. The 0300 was designed in collaboration with ZT and Strider Knives, and it’s a true combat folder, to be sure. What I like about the 0300 is that, it has the SpeedSafe assisted opening for quick, one-handed deployment. Just push on the ambidextrous thumb stud or pull back on the blade protrusion and the knife is ready for action. [JWR Adds: Be sure to consult your state an local laws on “automatic” and “assisted opening” knives before ordering.]
The 0300 has a blade made out of one of the super steels – S30V, with a Tungsten DLC coating for a black, non-reflective finish to cut down on glare. S30V is really a remarkable stainless steel – it holds and edge a very, very long time. It is a little hard to re-sharpen when it gets dull, but I don’t have a problem with a steel that holds an edge a long, long time. Blade length on the 0300 is 3.75″ – and I find that’s just about perfect for my needs. The blade is very wide, too – so it can do some serious damage if used for self-defense purposes. Handle scales are good ol’ G-10 that is 3D machined with Titanium liners – you aren’t gonna break the handle scales on this hummer. I like the thick handle scales, too – they allow a solid grip on the 0300. Overall length of the 0300 is 5.625″ – but it looks bigger than that. Matter of fact, the entire knife looks bigger than it actually is. The weight of the 0300 is 8-ounces. Yes, that is heavy for a folder, but it was designed to be super-tough, and it will hold up to all kinds of abuse and use. There is also a pocket/clothing clip, that can be switched from one of 4 different positions for right or left pocket carry, or tip up or tip down carry. A 3/8″ hex head pivot shaft nut makes field adjustments on blade tension possible with a minimal of tools in the field, should the blade tension work loose – not likely, but anything can happen under the harsh conditions of combat or survival.
When the blade is fully locked when open, it can only be released by pressing the frame-lock (style) liner to the side, which is located in the handle scales. The frame-lock liner lock is actually part of the frame’s liner. This is a very secure method of locking a blade open on a folder. On the 0300 – this is a massive locking-liner – stout – just like the entire knife is. The 0300 is ready-to-go out of the box. If you need a super-stout folder for military, law enforcement or survival use, then this knife will sure fill all those needs, and then some. I did find that the knife is slightly better suited as a slasher as opposed to a stabber – however, it can perform both functions with aplomb. This folder is also made in the good ol’ USA – and that’s important to a lot of folks.
Now for the bad news – at least as far as I’m concerned. I some how managed to lose my 0300 some time ago, and haven’t had it replaced. the 0300 doesn’t come cheap – it retails for $325 – and as I always mention, quality doesn’t come cheap – you buy buy a lesser knife, with a lesser blade steel, and you’ll have a lesser knife.[JWR Adds: The lowest I’ve seen them advertised is $236, via mailorder.] If you want something that will hold up to anything you can throw at it – then take a close look at the ZT 0300. One of these days, I’m going to replace my lost 0300 – if you want a knife that will never let you down, then take a close look at the 0300. In future articles, I’ll review some of the other fixed and folding blades that Kershaw ZT offers – and they currently have quite a crop of cutlery that they are turning out in this tactical division. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio
Dear Jim,
My in laws had a 46-foot Dolphin Catamaran for a while. This is in current dollars a near $1 million state of the art boat, with sails, diesel engines, GPS, auto-pilot, radios, staterooms, the works.
I’ve got moderate experience in several types of boats, from pocket fishing types to speed boats and small sport sailboats.
They were constantly having to replace “canvas” (usually nylon, fiberglass or Kevlar on boats these days), lines, electronics and do engine work. Nearly every letter from aboard was about the latest round of maintenance, the need for safety lines while at sea (including a man overboard incident), rough weather, mechanical failures at sea, keeping watch during such problems.
Pontoon boats are a form of catamaran, and almost proof against swamping, unless shot full of holes, though that is fairly easy to do. As I’ve noted previously, there’s no cover nor concealment on open water.
Small boats carry almost nothing.
Large boats carry a lot less than many people think.
Unless one has a classic 18th Century wooden pinnace, with crew, including carpenters, maintenance is expensive, time consuming, and takes tools or a port. On second thought, it does even then.
Life on a boat is not some happy-go-carefree existence of drifting along watching the lesser castes starve. It requires, if anything, more work than a landed lifestyle. If it was so cheap and easy, more people would do it.
If one has a definite bug out destination in mind, a boat would certainly be one means to consider. It is not, however, the solution to any other problem. It is a hole in the water that one must pour money into to maintain, even when not in use. That money can better be spent on beans, bullets and band aids, a chunk of land, tools, etc.
Like the “get a light plane and pilot’s license” threads in SurvivalBlog in the past few years, there’s much more involved than a casual glance suggests, and I believe even experienced boat owners are underestimating what’s involved.
I’d like to see comment on this subject from experienced Naval boat and ship handlers. I suspect they’ll be a lot less sanguine than many readers. – Michael Z. Williamson, SurvivalBlog Editor at Large
Sir:
All this debate on the best DIY refrigeration method [for insulin] omitted a key question: What is the real shelf life for insulin, if you keep it properly refrigerated? Thanks, – J.E.C.
JWR Replies: Definitive data is available in this diabetes journal article: How Long Should Insulin Be Used Once a Vial Is Started?. The article notes the following from a pharmaceutical manufacturer for refrigerated, unopened bottles:
“Lantus was found to meet stability criteria for at least 24 months when stored between 36 and 46°F (2 and 8°C) (Aventis, data on file). Accelerated stability testing at 77°F (25°C) revealed a slight loss in activity by 9 months. Testing at 95–102°F (35–39°C) for 1 month revealed an increase in impurities without loss of activity. Lantus should be stored in a refrigerator to maintain the labeled expiration date. In the absence of refrigeration, unopened vials of Lantus should be discarded after 28 days.”
Jim:
Regarding this statement in a recent article [by M.G.M.] :
“To test your body’s need for iodine, you place a drop on your wrist or foot, if it absorbs within four hours, your body is in need of iodine. (You will want to slowly build up [with an incrementally larger area of skin covered], over months so as not to disrupt your thyroid), if the mark stays close to eight hours, then you are sufficient in iodine. Your body will soak it up if you need it.”
This is an old wives’ tale. The visibility of iodine on the skin is influenced by a great many things, but least of all by the amount of iodine already in the body.
This paper contains the following text:
“From the published data, the skin iodine patch test is not a reliable method to assess whole body sufficiency for iodine. Many factors play a role in the disappearance of the yellow color of iodine from the surface of the skin. For example, if iodine is reduced to iodide by the skin, the yellow color of iodine will disappear because iodide is white. In order to regenerate iodine on the skin, one needs to apply an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide, complicating the test further. The evaporation of iodine from the skin increases with increased ambient temperatures and decreased atmospheric pressure due to weather conditions and altitude. For example, the yellow color of iodine will disappear much faster in Denver, Colorado at 5,000 feet above sea level then Los Angeles, California at sea level, irrespective of the amount of bioavailable iodine.”
The data in the paper also suggests that this test can’t work as described, because the body will absorb far more iodine than it needs.
That paper references this paper which states:
“The percentage of iodine penetration through the skin is the same, irrespective of whether the cells have a high or low vitality, or are dead, and irrespective of the direction of penetration. Activity of the cells, therefore, does not seem to be indispensable for the penetration of iodine.”
That seems pretty conclusive. – P.N.G.
Boosters suggested a 2009 documentary that is now available free on YouTube: Why Gold & Silver?. This is a great video that features commentary from experts like Mike Maloney, Robert Kiyosaki, Congressman Ron Paul, David Morgan, Jason Hommel, James Turk, Bill Murphy, and even the irascible Mogambo Guru (Richard Daughty). BTW, this is a great video link to send to your relatives who scoff at hedging into precious metals and other tangibles.
David D. liked this piece by Paul Krugman: Making Things in America
Our friend Kevin S, sent this from Lew Rockwell’s site: Libertarianism versus Statism
Also from Kevin comes the latest from the French LEAP think tank: Global systemic crisis – Confirmation of a Major Alert for the second half of 2011 – Explosive fusion of world geopolitical dislocation and the global economic and financial crisis
Items from The Economatrix:
Regulators Shut Two Banks in Georgia; 42 Shuttered This Year
My sincere thanks to the several SurvivalBlog readers who have made 10 Cent Challenge voluntary subscription payments.
o o o
Larry C. was the first of several readers to recommend this one-hour documentary: College Conspiracy.
o o o
I recently received a review copy of the Tactical Point Shooting video. This is a classic from 1992 (back in the VHS tape days) that has just been been re-mastered onto DVD. This fascinating video features SurvivalBlog’s own Pat Cascio, the late John McSweeney, and Sheriff Jim Wilson. The DVD also has some commentary from the late (and legendary) Colonel Rex Applegate. By the way, Pat Cascio studied under Rex Applegate for several years. At a special introductory price, Pat is offering new DVD for sale directly. Send a check or money order fro $12.95 to: Pat Cascio, P.O. Box 342, Sweet Home, OR 97386. The 12.95 price includes shipping to the United States and APO/FPO addresses.
o o o
From idle pleasantries to at-your-throat rage in just 24 Hours: Cruise Ship Crew Reportedly Faced Hostile Passengers After Engines, Electricity Fail. Reader Matt M. notes: “This was a perfect example of a Micro TEOTWAWKI Experiment.”
o o o
More from the City of Brotherly Love: After Altercation, Philadelphia Police Say They Won’t Look the Other Way on Open-Carry Gun Owners. “Inconvenienced”? They drew down on and threatened to kill a citizen who was simply exercising his rights. That is hardly being “Inconvenienced”. Just one more reason to move to a gun-friendly state. (A tip of the hat to KAF for the link.)
“Economic and political prosperity are not the final measures of human progress. The Rome of Trajan was immeasurably more splendid than the Rome of the Scipios; yet the progress had been downwards nevertheless. If the object of our existence on this planet is the development of character, the culminating point in any nation’s history is that at which it produces its noblest and bravest men.” – James Anthony Froude, The English in the West Indies
Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.
Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Would you like to provide a good meal for your family and know where the meat has come from and who has handled it and not have to rely on going to the grocery store to purchase it? Well that was me a few years ago. I was concerned about the safe handling practices of store bought meat as well, the cost of the store bought meat. I really wanted to be able to take pride that I could grow and process my meat and not have to rely on the grocery store. I already process deer so I thought this couldn’t be much different. It really isn’t. The killing is the only part that I truly hate, but that part is extremely quick. If you live in a suburban neighborhood, then you can most likely still have “pet” rabbits. We also make raised garden beds from the little pellets that are conveniently deposited into a waiting wheel barrel. We add worms found in the yard to the garden beds and have very nice rich soil the next season once the worms do their job.
Before obtaining your rabbits, you will need some basic equipment: 1 cage per adult rabbit, 1 feed trough and water dish or bottle per rabbit and then you will also need 1 or more nesting boxes for your does. If you have just one doe, then one nest box will be fine. If you have two does, then depending on your breeding routine you might be able to get away with just one box or you could decide on keeping two nest boxes. Nest boxes can be made or purchased. When we first got our rabbits we picked up some cages, water bottles and nest boxes from where we got the rabbits at.
You will need to start off with some good breeding stock of a meat breed. In rabbits you can line breed (breed siblings) for a few generations before you start seeing genetic problems. I personally have chosen to start with non related stock. You can start breeding your doe or does as early as 4-1/2 months of age. We have found rabbits are extremely easy keepers and have been very healthy for us. We have purchased our stock from local animal auctions and off craigslist as well.
We chose on the New Zealand breed of rabbit. They have a good meat to bone ratio. They are the typical Easter bunny rabbit, you know the white bunny with red eyes. Some people like breeds that produce various colors and such. But for me my bunnies all look the same so I don’t focus on getting attached to one particular rabbit. My son who is now five thoroughly enjoys them as well. He knows that what happens to them and where they end up, but he also knows that just two weeks after butchering time a new batch of bunnies will be born to play with. He is there around us when we are butchering. When he was younger we would just leave him inside to watch cartoons and we would tell him what we were doing, but after time went on he prefers to be outside watching us during the butchering. We want our son to know where his food comes from and not to be afraid of it. Someday his life could depend on it.
We have one buck and one doe that we regularly breed. Their names are Max and Ruby. (If you have little ones, you might recognize those names from a cartoon.) We have Ruby in a larger cage than necessary, but that is just because I choose to keep the litter with the mother until the day of butchering. During the summer I do not want them crowded and overheating. We butcher our bunnies at 8 weeks of age. Some people do it as early as 6 weeks and other wait until 11 or 12 weeks. We have found that if we allow them to get older then the skin gets tougher to skin out and the meat is a little tougher. Rabbit meat is a very lean meat. There is generally some loose fat between the hide and the shoulders and again some between the hide and the belly. You won’t find any inside the actual meat though. Rabbit can be utilized in any chicken recipe.
Make sure that you keep your rabbits housed where they will have adequate shade and a roof over their heads to shelter from the sun, rain and other elements. Rabbits are very easy keepers. Our rabbits our housed outside with a roof over their heads and we use a privacy fence to block the wind from the west and there is a garage to their north to block the north wind. During the summer there is a large shade tree that provides them with a cool shady spot and during the winter we will tack up plastic over the remaining sides of their cage. The plastic can be left up or allowed to cover the cages in times of nasty storms in the winter. You always take the doe to the bucks cage. You can just stand around and watch to ensure that your buck has successfully completed his deed. We usually allow him three times during this visit, then put your doe back in her cage. Do NOT keep them in the same cage on a permanent basis. If you do you will never know when to expect a litter. Then if you want to ensure a larger litter put the doe back in with the buck twelve hours after the first breeding. Rabbits ovulate based on sexual stimulation and they can ovulate once every twelve hours. So this is the reason to re-breed your rabbit twelve hours later. Now is the hard part, just waiting. The gestation period is 29 to 33 days. Each doe will have a very regular schedule as to how many days she will go before producing her kits. My doe goes 30 days exactly. About five days before you are expecting the kits to arrive place the nest box in her cage. Depending on the temperatures, I may add hay, straw or pine shavings to her box as well. If it is very cold, then I will fill the nest box up completely, the doe will make the nest in there and pull out any excess she doesn’t want. We will check on our doe various times per day when she is due so we know exactly when she has her kits. The doe we have is very trusting and does not mind if and when I mess with her nest and kits. We have had other does in the past who have been aggressive in regards to us checking out their babies. Those does went bye bye very soon as I do not enjoy being scratched or bitten. Mostly though, New Zealand rabbits are extremely gentle.
After your babies have arrived you will need to check out the nest box to make sure that there aren’t any dead babies in there or any uneaten afterbirth. Remove all the nasties and then just check on and count the babies each time you feed and water your doe. Rabbits cannot pick up their young the way a cat or dog can so if a baby gets out of the box there is no way for the mommy to put it back. You will have to move them back to the box or they will die. Also, if you go out one day and you find a dead cold looking kit on the cage, go ahead and put it back in the middle of the nest box with the other kits. I have found babies like this and thought they were dead, but after placing them back in the nest box, they came back to life. So do not count a "dead kit" as dead unless it is cold and dead. Ideally there needs to be at least three kits in the litter for the babies to be stay warm enough together. Once I did have a litter of only two babies during the fall, they did make it just fine. When the babies are three weeks old you can remove the nest box and continue to watch them grow.
When the babies are six weeks old is when I like to breed the doe. Then two weeks later your babies are 8 weeks old and we butcher. This routine will allow the mother to keep her young with her and also allow her to have a two week rest period before she kits again. This routine also keeps you from having to keep a cage just for weaned babies. I really like this schedule as it keeps me from having to move the babies to another cage. I keep one buck and one doe at this time. This schedule allows us to have up to one rabbit per week as I butcher a litter of rabbits every ten weeks. Rabbits usually have 7-12 bunnies per litter.
When we butcher the rabbits, we prefer to can the meat now, as opposed to freezing it. We do still freeze some, but the canned rabbit has such a wonderful flavor and it is also extremely tender.
We have chosen the raw pack method with the meat still on the bones due to it being simpler and more time saving. Cut up your rabbits so that you have good size pieces. Add those to your quart jars. Add one teaspoon of salt to each quart. Do not add any liquid. Allow a 1-1/4” headspace per jar, add your lids and bands and process for 75 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure in your pressure canner. The flavor and texture is completely different from fresh or frozen to canned rabbit. Yummy!
Having two does and one buck will provide your family with up to two rabbits per week all year long.
Jim,
First, thank you so much for such a worthwhile resource for prepping and other useful information.
Regarding the recent article on M1911 series pistols, I could not help but cringe when I repeatedly read to release the slide and let it slam on an empty chamber. It is my understanding that there is no better way to mess up a trigger job than repeated slamming the slide forward on an empty chamber. The action of releasing the slide without a round being stripped off of a magazine to buffer the force will cause damage to the surfaces of both the hammer and the sear. Since a nice and crisp trigger pull heavily depends on these surfaces being precise, it is in the 1911 owners best interest to not allow the slide to fall on an empty chamber repeatedly.
With that being said, it is required to release the slide on an empty chamber while performing a function check of the 1911. The checks should be performed before purchasing any used 1911, and probably any new 1911. No factory or gunsmith will produce 100% perfect firearms 100% of the time! Please make sure that you have asked the firearm’s owner for permission to perform these checks before running through the list.
The procedure to function check the 1911 is as follows:
1) Ensure that the firearm is unloaded. Remove the magazine. Lock the slide back and visually inspect the chamber. Put your pinky finger into the chamber. Make absolutely, positively sure that the firearm is unloaded!
2) Still treat the firearm as if it is loaded, being aware of muzzle position at all times. Safety, safety, safety!
3) Basic firing test: Slide forward and hammer cocked. Hold firearm as if you were going to fire. Pull trigger. Hammer should drop. If you repeat the test with a pencil inserted into the barrel eraser side first, the pencil should be propelled out of the barrel when you pull the trigger.
4) Half-cock notch test: with slide forward, and hammer in released position, pull hammer back until you hear the first click. This is the half-cock notch. With safety disengaged and firearm gripped as if to fire, pull the trigger. The hammer should not drop, unless it is a series 80, in which case the hammer will drop, but not with enough force to fire.
5) Sear reset and engagement test: Perform the basic firing test above, but continue to pull back on the trigger. Fully pull back on slide and release. Hammer should be fully cocked, and should not follow the slide forward. Release trigger and pull again- the hammer should fall. To test the sear’s engagement, lock the slide back and grip the pistol normally. Release the slide with the slide stop, allowing it to slam on the empty chamber. The hammer should not follow.
6) Thumb safety test: Hold pistol in normal firing grip with slide forward, hammer cocked, and thumb safety engaged. Pull the trigger. The trigger should not move much, if at all, the hammer should not fall and there should not be any movement of internal parts. The trigger should come to a hard stop. If it is mushy, there may be sear movement. Release the trigger and disengage the thumb safety. The hammer should not fall.
7) Grip Safety Test: With the hammer cocked, slide forward, and thumb safety off, hold the pistol so that you are not depressing the grip safety. Pull the trigger. Trigger should not move much, if at all, and the hammer should not fall.
8) Disconnector Test: Grip gun in normal firing grip with slide forward, hammer cocked, and thumb safety disengaged. Pull slide back ¼” with other hand. Pull trigger – the hammer should not fall. Repeat the test, but pull the slide fully to the rear. Allow the slide to move forward slowly, pulling the trigger every ½” of slide movement. The hammer should not fall until slide is fully forward.
9) Barrel Lockup: With the slide fully forward, attempt to push in on the barrel hood. There should be very little movement, if any at all. Try to push the muzzle to the rear. There should be no discernible movement.
10) Slide Lockback on Empty Magazine: Start with slide fully forward. Insert a magazine that you have verified is empty through look and feel. Pull slide fully to the rear and release. The follower on the magazine should trip the slide stop, and the slide should stay locked open. Repeat the test with each magazine you will be using with this pistol. Note: some magazines will not function correctly with one pistol, but work perfectly fine with another. Find out which ones your pistol likes!
11) Magazine drop test: Load a verified empty magazine into your pistol. Depress the magazine catch button. The magazine should drop freely from the pistol with no drag and no harsh scraping sound. Repeat with each magazine you will be using with your pistol.
If your pistol fails any of the preceding tests, there is probably something wrong with the internals and it should be checked by a gunsmith ,ASAP.
Now everyone should celebrate the 100th anniversary of this wonderful pistol and go purchase one as soon as you can! – Don in Virginia
Reader C.D.V. suggested this article: World Bank Sees Dollar Reserve Status Ending Over Next Decade.
E.M.B. forwarded this: Death Derivatives Emerge From Pension Risks of Living Too Long
Check gambit makes Coos Bay [Oregon] man a felon. (Thanks to D.B.C. for the link.)
Items from The Economatrix:
Home Sales Fall Despite Uptick in First Time Buyers
Ahead Of The Bell: Leading Indicators Seen Rising
Predicting the Future Gold Price Misses the Point
Senate Bill Would Limit Savers Using 401(k)s as Rainy Day Funds