Odds ‘n Sods:

We’ve mentioned “seasteading” several times in SurvivalBlog, and my #1 Son attended their first planning conference. Here is the latest news: Patri Friedman makes waves with ‘seasteading’ plan. (Thanks to Georgia Mom for the link.)

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I just heard that for just the month of June anyone order more than $150 of any merchandise from Ready Made Resources will receive a free DVD copy of the excellent Urban Danger DVD.

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Jeremy Pavleck over at Cool Tools recently recommended Rescue Repair Tape. It is a fusing silicone repair tape that has umpteen uses. It can even be used as a temporary patch for leaking radiator hoses. I recommend buying a roll for at home, and one for each of your vehicle tool kits.

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The Berkey Guy received a recent shipment of Wise Food Storage packages and has plenty in stock of 56, 60, & 84 servings buckets. They say that they ship the same day or next day after ordering.

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John R. mentioned this over art Chris Martenson’s site: The Dangers of Fukushima Are Worse and Longer-lived Than We Think



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Kiss the Son, lest he be angry, and ye perish [from] the way, when his wrath is kindled but a little. Blessed [are] all they that put their trust in him.” – Psalm 2:12 (KJV)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 35 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 35 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Survival Electronics, by M.B. Ham

As an electronics and computer engineer for the past 30 years my personal skill sets are of limited but interesting value after TEOTWAWKI. Given that there may be very limited electricity, and/or the fact that CME/EMP may destroy most electronics devices, the need for these skills may be rare. I feel that these skills will be mostly useless unless you are part of a sustainable group of retreatists that have electricity and devices that use it. I plan to be part of such a group, and so I am planning ahead to make sure that my skills can be applied when required. This will require that I consult with the group on what brands and models of devices will be on hand. With this information I can stock up on spare parts, test equipment, etc. Electronics will fail and will have to be repaired. Comm gear, generators, vehicles, security systems will all need to be maintained and without proper planning even a knowledgeable technician will be unable to accomplish very much.

When I need to repair a device, whatever it is, I need several things:

1.    Schematic diagrams – These are the blueprints on how an electronic device operates. Diagnosing and repairing anything will be difficult without the schematics.

2.    Test equipment. The most basic tool is the VOM (volt-ohm meter). With this tool and the schematics you can identify and fix many problems in consumer electronics.

3.    Spare parts. This is sort of obvious, but you can’t fix things without parts.

In my way opinion, the availability of schematics and spare parts should determine what devices you are going to stock in your retreat. State-of-the-art comm gear is great if you have five spares and a dedicated support team to fix them, not so good if you are 40 miles and three years removed from civilization. A device needs to be sustainable by less than factory methods, and in the field, post-TEOTWAWKI, this will near impossible for individuals. For that reason, I lean towards older gear that has survived to this point. I look for gear that has easily obtainable spare parts that can be replaced by hand with common electronics tools. This means discrete components (resistors, transistors, etc)….. no surface-mount components and as few integrated circuits as possible. We have to go back to the 70’s and early 80’s for this stuff. Most of us will not have the equipment or spare parts needed to repair currently available electronics. The parts are just too small, to specialized. Furthermore, there are no schematics available for a large portion of modern, throw-away electronics.

This is why as an individual, or as a group, planning to support your electronics gear should take time and care. I am planning on buying as near identical and as many as I can find of particular pieces of gear. This will be gear that I can obtain parts and schematics for, NOW. I want as few different models as possible. I want complete spare units, spare parts, and good quality, well-protected schematics. I want these units to provide me with the needed functions, but as few bells and whistles as possible. I want to be able to test, tune, and modify the gear beforehand, and then put it into safe storage until needed. When looking for manuals, schematics, etc., look at sites like http://electronicsrepair.net/ for almost any electronic equipment. Ebay is also a great place to get service manuals, schematics, etc.

Knowing how to fix electronic gear, or even being able to attempt to fix it will be a big plus if it’s gear that has become important to your daily life. Things like comm gear, battery chargers, solar controllers, generators, etc. While maybe not defining life or death, these devices will be able to help you be safer and more comfortable. Having a member of your group that has these capabilities, will become very important when something is broken. If you decide to take this on yourself, and have never been involved in electronics repair, consider taking a class at a local tech school or college. Whatever source of education you you choose, make sure you will get basic electronics theory to start, and then move to more advanced topics. A great place to start learning about electronics is watching this collection of online tutorials. Be sure that you get the principles of transistor theory down, since this is the type of circuitry we will be most likely to be able to repair. More modern equipment is still based on transistor circuits, but the transistors themselves are more often than not part of an integrated circuit that is more specialized, harder to find, and harder to replace. Once you become a bit more acquainted with the theories of electronic circuits I would also suggest that you play around with some ham radio equipment. Attend some local group meetings, get to know the old timers, ask questions, and get some gear to experiment with. Ham radio guys are some of the most savvy electronics guys around, and they are generally very pleasant and generous with time and knowledge.

Consider getting a n amateur radio (“ham”) license. There are plenty of useful, practical ham projects you can build, either from individually sourced parts or from the many companies that offer kits. Start with a simple receiver, since you can listen for signals from other hams. After that, build a matching transmitter and antenna. Once you get that accomplished you have made great strides in your skills. Along the way you will learn about power supplies, amplifiers, etc. Soon the mysteries of how things work will be distant memory. Much of the theory can be applied to other gear that has electronics as part of the larger functionality, such as a generator. The skill to fix a down generator or battery charger will be without a price.

When learning to repair electronic devices, test equipment such as multi-meters, oscilloscopes, signal generators, etc. are needed to troubleshoot, and then you need tools like soldering irons to effect repairs. Start with simple repair jobs like replacing cords, broken wires and then tackle more intricate work as your skill level increases. Replacing discreet electronic components is fairly easy if you have decent vision and good tools. You must remove faulty components before you install new ones, and that usually involves heating a solder join on a circuit board with a soldering iron, and then removing the molten solder from the component leads with a ‘solder-sucker’. A solder sucker is a hand-cocked vacuum device that has a spring-loaded plunger that is used to create a small vacuum at the tip of a tube when the plunger is released. The vacuum removes the heated solder and leaves the component leads free to be removed. Here’s a great video to show you how its done. installing the new component is easy, just place the leads of the new component through the circuit board holes, quickly heat the lead with the solder iron and apply solder to the point where the lead goes through the board. Clip any excess leads from the component and you are finished. When soldering some components like small signal transistors, you might to use a heat sink to keep the device from getting too hot during soldering. Us a small alligator clip attached to the untrimmed component leads during soldering. This will allow the alligator clip to dissipate some of the heat from your soldering iron.

As far as electronics go, with some sense of power availability, a properly planned retreat need not be “roughing-it”. Conserving power may indeed be required, but there could be instances where the preferred method of cooking something is with a microwave. Perhaps an electric clock, radios (news and music, not comm), maybe a record player. Whatever the device, consider looking for gear that is not digital, has no digital displays, no keypads, etc. Older microwaves had a timer and a start button… very easy to repair or bypass, and less suspect to failure from EMP or lightning. I would prefer to equip my retreat with all of the devices I use now, just older, or at least less sophisticated models that would be easier to keep running. I look for these at thrift stores, yard sales, swap meets, eBay, and Craigslist. If the price is right, and there are more than one, I buy several since the best spare parts source is a complete spare unit. Not only that, a working unit can be a very good tool for troubleshooting a failed unit. Now, before the SHTF is the time to test, repair, and modify your gear.

Once you have gained some knowledge and are familiar with electronic gear, start looking for some to put into inventory. Go to eBay and look for an older radio transceiver for CB or ham bands, then try and find the schematics and/or service manuals for it. For this type of gear it can often be had as a part of a collection known as “Sam’s Photofacts”. These were published as service guides for electronics repairmen, and will contain most everything you will need to repair and tune your radio. If you can’t find the schematics, consider a different piece of gear. Things like refrigerators, AC units, microwaves and electric ovens will often have schematics attached to the inside of the housing or chassis. For things like battery chargers, generators, etc, schematics may be hard to find. As soon as you buy a piece of gear, start hunting for the schematics, service manuals, and any operators manuals. Contact the manufacturer or distributor and ask for them, if they are available most often they will sell or just give them to you. Look on the companies web site, often the docs you are looking for will be available for download. Once you have your documents, make copies of them and store them in two separate, well-protected places.

While looking for gear to purchase, don’t overlook gear that is not functional. The easiest gear to repair is often gear that will not power on. This can often be traced to a bad power cord, switch, or fuse. When you are at a flea market, thrift store, garage sale, etc., and see a non-functional piece of equipment, you can usually get it for a very low price. Take your time and look for obvious problems such as cords or fuses. Ask the seller if they know how the unit behaves. I the correct power is available, ask to plug it in. I once bought a very nice television that would not power on for $1 at a yard sale! It turned out to be a bad connection on the back of the set where the power cord attached. Very cheap prices can be worth the gamble, and if you can’t fix it, there may be parts you can salvage for other gear. If all else fails, you can throw the equipment away and have only lost a very small investment, and you may have learned something in the process. Don’t be afraid to open things up and take a look around! Often you can spot a loose wire, or a bad component just by looking. Bad components often become discolored or burnt, and some bad capacitors are often swollen or burst open. These are easy to spot and should be fairly easy to replace with some patience and some practice.

For spare parts, look at the parts list and/or schematics. Try and find replacement parts for transistors, diodes, and tubes. When an exact part number replacement is not available look for a parts substitution from ECG, NTE, or a similar company. It’s probably not worth trying to stock spares for resistors and capacitors, but instead stock up on these in small bulk assortments. Resistors and capacitors are available in large assortments of common values. If a replacement is needed and no exact replacement is handy you can often just get close, or combine two or more components to get the required value. Other spare parts you may want to consider are things like microphones, power connectors, antenna, and fuses. (Unless you just have to, don’t operate your gear without the correct fuses!)

Above all, remember that most electronics devices are happy and safe when they are dry and have the correct power supply voltages applied. If you keep them dry and don’t drop them, stomp on them, or shoot them they will keep working. To that end, store and operate your gear in dry environments, and make sure you have thought to provide the proper input power for them. Whenever possible, try and buy equipment that uses a common supply voltage such as 120 VAC or 12 VDC (at least here in the US). In coming articles I intend to discuss how to build small power supply systems that can be switched or adjusted to provide different supply voltages to several different pieces of gear at the same time, from a common input power source. I also have articles planned for antenna design and construction, and an article for passively reducing your transmitter output to limit the effective range and your RF visibility.



Initial Experience With a Slide Fire AR Stock

Courtesy of one of my consulting clients, I recently had the opportunity to shoot more than 120 rounds through an AR-15 equipped with an SSAR-15 SlideFire Solutions stock. These are legal “bump fire” stocks that slide 1/2-inch, allowing you to very rapidly re-press the trigger, under recoil. The effect sounds just like full auto. It takes a few minutes to get accustomed to controlling the length of bursts. The trick is using a slight forward pressure on the foregrip.

As with full auto, don’t expect much accuracy after the second shot in a burst. (I was able to keep two rounds inside a 6 inch circle at 10 yards.) The stock can also be locked in the rearward position, for traditional (non-bump firing) function. Each stock sold comes with a copy of the ATF approval letter, certifying that rifles in equipped with this stock are exempt from the National Firearms Act $200 tax requirements. (Technically, under U.S. law, they are not full auto, because you are firing the gun semi-auto with individual presses of the trigger.) Don’t be surprised if this ruling is reversed in a few years, on a bureaucratic whim, or at the insistence of higher ups in the Executive Branch. If Senator Schumer saw one of these guns in action at a rifle range, I think that he’d lapse into apoplectic spasms. Given the attributes of these stocks, be prepared to answer to authorities at a moment’s notice. I recommend that you keep a copy of the ATF approval letter with the stock at all times. I was told that my host keeps his letter inside a forward pistol grip (with a battery compartment) that is kept mounted on his AR-15. That is prudent.

At first, I considered these stocks a novelty and just an expensive toy. But then I realized that for retreat groups, it might make sense to add one of these stocks to an M4gery or AR-15 in your battery. Picture a situation where your group retreat is being approached by a large group of armed, hostile looters. Odds are that most of them won’t have any combat experience. The sound of “full auto” fire in a display of force might encourage them to flee and go find a softer target, somewhere else. (Your mileage may vary!)

One word of warning: A rifle equipped with one of these stocks becomes an ammo eater. They are expensive to shoot, so don’t buy one unless you can afford to lay in an extra 2,000 rounds of ammo and a Beta CMAG 100 round magazine.



Letter Re: Tips on Buying Physical Silver Locally

JWR,
Thank you for your site, I read it daily. I would like to point out that local coin auctions are another good place to pick up some silver. I came across an ad in the classified section of the local paper for a coin auction that was being held at one of our local auction houses. They had a web site that listed all of the coins that were to be for auction that following weekend.

There were over 500 lots of coins for auction that day. I picked up several 40% Ike dollars for $3-$5 less than what coinflation.com had listed for a melt value. There were many bags of pre-1964 coins that sold for less than their melt values. I also picked up some 1 oz silver rounds for $1 to $2 per ounce under that day’s spot price. Also, there were some foreign coins, Francs, Pesos that were .700 or .900 silver that ended up selling for less than their melt values. I would urge caution though on bidding on some of the older [numismatic] coins. There were many Morgan silver dollars that were being run up to $50-$100. I can only assume that there was some rarity value placed on these coins by the collectors. There were fees on purchases made with credit cards, but since I paid cash, there were no fees and no sales tax. If you do your homework you can come away with some good deals. – M.C.W.

JWR Adds: The same principle applies to other auctions, including online variety auctions, gun auctions, and farm auctions. If the majority of the people attending an auction are bidding on the “treasures” and ignoring the “trash”, then the latter will likely sell for well below retail. In the case of coin auctions where the bidders are after the high grade numismatics (Sheldon grade MS-62 and higher), then they will likely pass up on bidding on the heavily worn “junk” silver coins that only have bullion value. I’ve also been to gun auctions where some very “Plain Jane” guns and large “odd lot” boxes of of holsters, scopes and full capacity magazines sold for a pittance because everyone else who was there seemed fixated on buying $20,000+ Colts and Winchesters.



Economics and Investing:

Barry Ritholtz: FDIC Bank Failures Chart. (Thanks to SurvivalBlog’s Poet Laureate “G.G.” for the link.)

Chad S. sent a link for the few folks who feel that they don’t get enough gloom and doom from reading this column: DailyJobCuts.com.

Items from The Economatrix:

US Home Price Fall “Beats Great Depression Slide”

Dreaded Double Dip In Housing Is Here

Consumer Confidence Falls Unexpectedly In May

The Brittle Financial American Middle Class



Odds ‘n Sods:

Eric C. sent this: Pickup runs on wood

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I just heard that Camping Survival just received a supply of Bridgford shelf-stable sandwiches. These were developed for the U.S. military, with a three year shelf life. Try some!

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Several readers sent this: Kevlar Bunker Provides Safe House for Tornado Survivor. JWR Adds: To my mind, there is no proper substitute for reinforced concrete.

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J.D.D. sent this article with video: Family Lives in 320-Square-Foot ‘Shotgun Shack’

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This guy really cranks them out! Volume Handloading Match Grade 5.56mm for AR-15. (Thanks to Robert R. for the link.)



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“I will send my fear before thee, and will destroy all the people to whom thou shalt come, and I will make all thine enemies turn their backs unto thee.

And I will send hornets before thee, which shall drive out the Hivite, the Canaanite, and the Hittite, from before thee.” – Exodus 23:27-28 (KJV)



Notes from JWR:

Starting Sunday June 5th, the new Radio Free Redoubt podcast will begin airing weekly. Please note that this is not my own podcast (so the views expressed do not necessarily reflect my own), but the folks who produce it seem sincere and level-headed. The podcast should provide a great forum for exchanging ideas–both for folks who already live in the American Redoubt, and for those that plan to relocate there.

Between now and mid-July, I’m wrapping up the writing of the second sequel to my novel “Patriots“. The already-completed first sequel (“Survivors”) is scheduled for release in October of 2011, and the second sequel (working title: “Citizens”) is scheduled for release in October of 2012.

My follow-on project will be a weighty tome on firearms and other tools for survival. That should be published, Deo Volente, in 2013. So for the next 18 months, a greater portion of my writing in SurvivalBlog will be about tools and firearms. Today’s first article is an example.



Understanding Metric and Inch Bore Dimensions

I often have blog readers and consulting clients send me questions about firearms calibers. They are often confused, but this not always their fault. It is a confusing, complex, and often arcane topic. A lot of the facts that you will find are mere trivia, but since safety is an issue–(we mustn’t fire the incorrect ammo in our guns!)–it is important to study.

To begin: Metric caliber designations are usually written with an “x” in the middle to distinguish the bore diameter and case length. For example, the 6.5×55 designation tells us that the cartridge uses a 6.5 mm bullet, and a case that is 55 mm in length.

The following table is partly Creative Commons licensed (courtesy of Wikipedia), with additions by JWR (such as 7.5mm, 7.7mm, .375 H&H, .455 and .577) and minor corrections and comments. Hence, I am retaining my moral rights.

Bore

(Inches)

Metric

Equiv.

Bullet Dia.

(Inches)

Typical Cartridges JWR’s Comments
.172 4.4mm .172

.17 HMR,
.17 Remington

Varmint cartridges
.177 4.5mm .177 Pellet, .175 BB Airgun .177 caliber Common “BB Gun” and “Pellet Gun” ammo
.204 5mm .204 .204 Ruger, 5 mm Remington Rimfire Magnum Dubious market longevity, so beware!
.220 5.45mm .220 5.45 x39mm AK-74 series. (.220 Swift is actually a .223)
.22

5.56mm

5.7mm

.223 .222 Rem., .223 Rem., .220 Swift, FN 5.7×28, .22-250, etc. A bullet diameter of .224 is used with some cartridges
.228 5.8mm .228 .228 Ackley Magnum  
.243 6mm .243 .243 Winchester, 6mm Remington Actually, it is 6.2mm
.25 6.35mm .25 .25 ACP  
.257 6.5mm .257

.256 Win. Magnum, .25-06, .257 Roberts,

 
  6.5mm .264 6.5×55 Swedish Perfect for deer-sized game
.264 6.7mm .264 .264 Win. Magnum  
.270 6.8mm .270 .270 Winchester, .270 Weatherby Mag. Great for antelope
.280 “7mm” .284 .280 Ross, 7×57 Mauser, 7mm Magnum, .280 Remington Actually, it is a 7.2mm bullet, but called 7mm.
  7.5mm .307 7.5×55 Swiss Schmidt-Rubin
.30 US 7.62mm .308 .30-06, .308 Winchester Ubiquitous!
.30 Euro 7.62mm .311 7.62×39, .303 British 7.62×39 is the world’s most common centerfire military cartridge.
.30 Mauser 7.63mm .311 .30 Mauser Broomhandle Mauser.
.32 7.63mm .312 .32 ACP, .32 S&W  
  7.7mm .311 7.7 x58 Jap WWII Arisaka
.323 8mm .323 8×57 Mauser .325 WSM, 8mm Remington Magnum, 98 Mauser, et al.
.338 8.58mm .338 .338 Lapua, .338 Winchester Magnum, .338 Federal Becoming popular for counter-sniper rifles
.348 8.75mm .348 .348 Winchester  
.355 9mm .355 9mm Parabellum, .380 ACP  
.357 (“.38”) 9mm

 

.357 – .359

.38 S&W, .357 Magnum A “.38 S&W” is NOT 0.38″!
  9.22mm .363 9mm Makarov The Russians just have to be a little different.
.374 9.3mm .374 9.3×62 Mauser, 9.3×72 R  
.375 9.5mm .375 .375 H&H Magnum The world’s most popular dangerous game cartridge
.400 10mm .400 .38-40, .40 S&W, 10 mm Auto A .38-40 is actually a .400
.41 10.25mm .410 .41 Magnum Sadly, fading away
“.405” 10.25mm .411 .405 Winchester Misnamed, but a great cartridge
.408 10.4mm .408 .408 Chey Tac Based on the venerable .505 Gibbs case
.404 10.75mm .423 .404 Jeffery  
.41 Swiss 10.4mm

~.430

+/-

.41 Swiss / Vetterli The famous Vetterli cartridge
.416 10.6mm .416 .416 Barrett, .416 Rigby  
.43 11mm .430 .43 Spanish Remington Rolling Block
.44 10.8mm

.427-

.430

.44 Special, .44 Magnum  
.45 11.45mm

.451

.452

.45 ACP, .45 Colt, etc.  
.454 11.53mm .454 .454 Casull Bear Medicine
.455 11.53mm .454 .455 Eley British revolvers, often reworked to fire .45 ACP.
“.476” 11.53mm .454 .476 Enfield aka “.455/476”. Named for its neck diameter
“.450” 11.6mm .455 .450 Adams Yes, a “.450 Adams” had a bigger bullet than a “.455”
.458 11.6mm .458 .458 Winchester Magnum, .45-70 Big game rifle
.460 11.6mm .458 .460 Weatherby Actually a .458, but called a .460 for marketing
.475 12mm .475 .475 Linebaugh  
.480 12mm .475 .480 Ruger Actually .475″ bore, but .480 sounds better
.500 12.7mm .500 .500 S&W Magnum Polar Bear Medicine
.50 12.7mm .510 .50 AE, .500 S&W, .50 Beowulf, .50 BMG, 12.7 x 108 mm, etc. More correctly, they are .51 caliber.
.505 12.8mm .505 .505 Gibbs African big game rifle
.577 14.5mm .570 .577 Snider British service rifle and carbine
“14.5mm” 14.88mm .586 14.5x114mm (PTRS-41) Light cannon, but there are now “sniper rifles” chambered in 14.5mm
.68 17.27mm

.675-

.695

Nelspot Paintballs Paintball Markers
  20mm .787 20×102mm, etc. Light cannon
.950 24.13mm .950 .950 JDJ Based on the 20 x 102 mm Vulcan case
  30mm 1.18 30 x 113 mm, etc. Light cannon

As you can see, there are some amazing inconsistencies in cartridge designations. (See, for example, .405 Winchester and .38-40.) As Jim Keenan at the Firing Line Forums aptly put it: “It is usually best to just accept cartridge names; trying to figure out reasons for the names leads to insanity.”)

One regular source of confusion in cartridge naming is whether “bore diameter” refers to the rifling land dimension versus rifling groove dimension. For example, most .303 British rifles have a land-to-land diameter of .303 and a groove-to-groove diameter of .311. So when you handload a “.303” cartridge, you actually use a .311 diameter bullet.

Specifications have also changed for a few types of ammunition. One example is the 8mm Mauser cartridge. Early production 8×57 rifles used 8.08 mm (.318 caliber) bullets, but the later guns used 8.2 mm (.323 caliber) bullets.

Now, on to the realm of shotguns, where life is simpler but there is still some minor confusion.

Common Production Shotgun Bores and Gauges in North America

Designation

Bore
Diameter, Inches

Bore
Diameter, Metric
Round Balls Per pound JWR’s Comments
.410 .410 10.41mm 67.62 Not truly a “Gauge”. (If it were, it would properly be a “67 Gauge”)
28 Gauge .550 13.97mm 28 Uncommon gauge, loved by some quail and dove hunters
20 Gauge .615 15.63mm 20 Second most common gauge in the U.S. and Canada
16 Gauge .663 16.83mm 16 Fading in popularity
12 Gauge .729 18.53mm 12 The most common gauge in the U.S. and Canada
10 Gauge .775 19.69mm 10 Revived popularity, due to the mandate of lead-free shot for waterfowl hunting in the U.S.

Note that there are presently enormous revolvers being marketed that can fire both .45 Colt cartridges and .410 shotshells. (The Taurus “Judge” series.) I attribute the popularity of these revolvers to: A.) Ignorance of ballistics, and B). The unerring willingness of the American people to spend their money on impractical toys.



Pat’s Product Reviews: Blackhawk Nightedge Knife

As I’ve mentioned numerous times in my knife articles, I like big knives. Big knives can accomplish more tasks than smaller knives can. And, in the case of using a fixed blade knife for survival purposes or military applications, I think bigger knives shine! However, keep in mind that, no single knife can accomplish all the tasks you may need a blade for. That’s why I carry several knives, as well as having fixed blade knives with long blades, as well as shorter blades. There is no “do it all” knife – you need several.

If you are looking at a long-term survival situation, or you’re in the military, and need a fixed blade knife that won’t let you down, then take a close look at the Blackhawk Products, Nightedge. The Nightedge was designed by well-known custom knifemaker Allen Elishewitz, who lives in Texas. I reviewed one of Allen’s custom folders some years back for and article in Knives Illustrated magazine. I was greatly impressed by the attention to detail. I’ve also reviewed some of the CRKT knives that they are producing in collaboration with Elishewitz. Again, all winners.

In my opinion, the Blackhawk Nightedge is one of the best fixed blade knives that Allen Elishewitz has designed. We’re looking at a blade length of 5.9″ – although it looks longer and acts like a longer blade. The late Col. Rex Applegate, whom I worked for, for three years and whom I had the pleasure of calling my friend, taught me a lot about knife and gun fighting. Applegate studied use of the knife during WWII along with William Fairbairn. Applegate and Fairbairn concluded that you needed a blade with a length of 6″ in order to reach the vital organs in an enemy soldier. Well, the Nightedge is almost there with its 5.9″ blade – close enough for government work, as they say.

I like stainless steel blades, especially in my part of Oregon, where we get a lot of rain. However, I believe carbon steel blades hold an edge longer than stainless blades do, and carbon steel blades are easier to re-sharpen in my humble opinion. The Nightedge has a blade made out of 1085C high-carbon tool steel – good stuff! And, the blade has a black epoxy finish to help protect it from the elements. It’s also a full-tang blade – the thickness of the blade runs all the way through the handle, so it is very strong! Overall length of the knife is 10.9 inches.

The handle scales on the Nightedge are a thermoplastic rubber with textured panels for a sure grip under any conditions – the knife feels good, real good, in the hand. There is a slightly extended tang with a lanyard hole, should you wish to attach a lanyard. The sheath that is provided with the Nightedge is plastic-lined ballistic Nylon that is foliage green. The sheath can also be attached to a belt as well as web gear or MOLLE gear.

When I received my Nightedge, I noted that the blade wasn’t very sharp. This was puzzling, as I’ve tested a number of Blackhawk blades and all came hair-popping sharp out of the box. I thought I would simply touch-up the blade on a pair of ceramic sticks. Nope, didn’t happen. the edge geometry was all wrong on the blade. A quick e-mail to Laura Burgess who handles the PR for Blackhawk and a number of other companies, brought a quick reply. Blackhawk products wanted the sample back so they could examine the problem. Sure enough, for some reason, some of the Nightedge knives slipped through with the wrong edge grind on it. My sample was returned in short order, with the correct edge grind on it – shaving sharp. Blackhawk Products backs-up all their products, and when a mistake was made, they were fast to correct it – and admit it was a mistake on their part. I like that.

The Nightedge has a partially serrate edge towards the back of the blade, near the handle. Serrations can come in handy under any number of circumstances. However, Allen Elishewitz also provided a secondary edge edge on the top of the blade that is fully serrated for heavy draw cuts. Great idea! The unique grind on the blade also produces a reinforced point for extreme tip strength and penetration. There is also a built-in guard on the blade – where the blade joins the handle…it helps protect your hand from sliding onto the blade. the top guard has friction grooves for a secure grip of your thumb when using the fencing grip for knife fighting.

I used my sample knife for all kinds of tasks around my small homestead. I cut a lot of blackberry vines, and those are super-tough. I did some light chopping – even though this knife wasn’t designed for it – it took care of the task just the same. I could easily cut all the poly rope with the serrated edge, too. If you’ve ever tried to cut poly rope or wet rope – you’ll appreciate a knife with serrations.

Overall, the Nightedge is a great fixed blade knife. It’s perfect for combat, as well as survival purposes. Can it handle all the things you’ll through at it? No, of course not, no knife will. That’s why you need several knives for various tasks, as I mentioned at the onset of this article. I would highly recommend the Blackhawk Products Nightedge to Survivalblog readers, and especially to military personnel. This knife has a full retail of $149.99. That is a good deal on a great knife, designed by a world famous knife designer, and produced at a price point that makes it affordable for many of us. If you were to have Allen Elishewitz custom make this knife for you, you’d probably be looking at a price around $1,000 or more.

Again, as I’ve written before, quality never comes cheap, then again, you want the best gear and equipment you can afford when you’re looking at long-term survival. The Blackhawk collaboration with Elishewitz gives the consumer the opportunity to purchase a great design, at an affordable price. For further information, go to www.blackhawk.com for more information on this knife, and all their great products. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Two Letters Re: Keeping Your Communications Private

Sir:
After reading the recent SurvivalBlog article on “Keeping Your Communications Private” I went on eBay to see an endless variety of Flash drives that are very small and very camouflaged as to what they are. My wife and I will be going on a cruise later in the year and one of the cruise line’s suggestion is a flash drive to store copies of important documents.   I already do this for my BOB but I wanted something that we could carry that does not look like a flash drive. There were several options available at varying prices. I settled on purchasing a 2GB storage device that looks like a gift card/credit card and two that look like a leather wristbands. Naturally we will encrypt the information and put what ever programs might be needed to view the files, such as Open Office Portable and some sort of .pdf reader.   I read your post daily and enjoy them very much.   Thanks, – C.C. in East Texas

James,
I am a QuickBooks consultant and bookkeeper. In this capacity,  I frequently need to transport a client’s data files (In addition to my own records). I became concerned about the possibility of identity theft and my own liability. The elements of employee information contained in the typical data file is all the thief requires to create havoc.

For some years I used password protected SanDisk USB flash drives only to discover that the encryption/decryption required the host CPU and was vulnerable to hacking. (Later a team discovered that one didn’t even need to hack the decrypt password but that’s another story).

After more searching I found the Ironkey Personal. The entire device is encased in epoxy inside a sturdy metal shell. This makes it Mil Spec + waterproof and tamper proof as well as (if capped and not plugged into a port) EMP resistant. Encryption is achieved via an onboard chip which will self destruct (Mr. Phelps) after 10 unsuccessful password entries. This leaves the contents forever scrambled beyond any reasonable recovery. Many other features. I store  QuickBooks and Quicken data files on the device and run the applications on a machine addressing the files directly on the IronKey. As a result when I log off and detach the device the current files are securely stored on the IronKey with no trace on the client machine.

Check it out. It is seriously secure. – W.D.



Economics and Investing:

You may recall Buckeye, Arizona, as the home of a couple of the fictional characters in my novel “Patriots“. (They are also featured in the sequel, “Survivors”, that will be released in October.) Here is a video that shows a 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom house built in 2006 currently on the market in Buckeye. Its price has dropped from $184,900 to just $39,900. Yikes!

Prepare for More Money Printing: Analyst

Reader G.P. suggested this from The Telegraph: The Bank of England’s astonishing escape from the financial crisis.

SurvivalBlog’s G.G. sent this: Time To Celebrate The Recovery: Food Stamp Usage Hits Fresh Record

Items from The Economatrix:

Fears Of Economic Slowdown Hammer Stocks

Signs Point to an Economy Growing More Slowly

Treasury Yields Reach 2011 Lows on Hiring Drop



Odds ‘n Sods:

Readers in Western Montana, northern Idaho and southern Alberta will find this of interest: There is a Flathead Preparedness Expo scheduled for Saturday, June 18, 2011, in Kalispell, Montana. Guest speakers will include Pastor Chuck Baldwin, Sheriff Richard Mack, and Stewart Rhodes.

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A reminder that your original preparedness articles and videos (including all that you send to SurvivalBlog for posting) are eligible for Safecastle’s “Freedom Awards” contest, with $12,000 worth of prizes. SurvivalBlog’s editors are pleased to participate in the judging in this contest.

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Apparently this bad guy missed seeing the movie “The Untouchables“… : Colorado Springs robber armed with knife foiled by handgun. (“Never bring a knife to gun fight.”)

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D.S. flagged this: Protective Intelligence Lessons from an Ambush in Mexico

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From Steve M.: Innovative Hangar Home conceals garage mahal