Sir:
I had purchased two Schumacher brand Portable Power packs-essentially a [gel cell] battery with [just] an inverter without the extra buzzers and bells from a company that makes quality battery chargers. It has a 400w inverter with a modified sine wave output. During Hurricane Irene the only thing that I could get it to power was a standard lamp with an incandescent light bulb! It wouldn’t run tools or electronics. After some Internet research, I found that most units used the modified sine wave because it is a less expensive design. Unfortunately, it may or may not supply power to the unit that you need to turn on and it could damage some electronics.
An inverter with a pure sine wave output is a much more expensive design (and is the same output as your house electric) and is typically larger. It is often used in back-up power supplies for computer systems. These are not portable. Even the the top end Xantrex unit uses an inverter with a modified sine wave output. If anyone has any advice on where to find a portable unit with an inverter with a pure sine wave output. I realize that the typical generator uses a cheaper inverter and that may be fine for a few lamps and a refrigerator, but I want to run medical equipment, Televisions and a laptop during outages. Any ideas? – Alan W.
JWR Replies: From what I’ve read, the term “pure sine wave” inverter is a bit of a marketing myth. Even the best inverters produce AC power with a slightly clipped or distorted waveform. (And for that matter, even utility grid power doesn’t have a perfectly symmetrical waveform.) But both Xantrex (formerly Trace) and Outback manufacture sine wave inverters that produce very “clean” power that works very well with even the most finicky electronics such as desktop (AC transformer) computers and laser printers. Some of their small, low-wattage models are ideal for small photovoltaic, wind, or microhydro power systems. To save money, look for sine wave inverters in used condition, via eBay or Craigslist. But be sure that they are guaranteed to be working. (Commonly called a “No DOA” Warranty.) Also, when sizing your system remember that the larger the inverter, the higher its “idle” current draw will be. Even without a load, they put a load on a battery bank. Again, the higher the wattage rating, the bigger the idle current draw.
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Mr Rawles:s Silver alloys cannot be refined by just melting and skimming the dross from the top–no precious metal alloy can. Silver alloys usually contain copper as a hardener, some of the new sterling used in jewelry is alloyed with other metals to keep it from tarnishing. Simply melting silver will not cause the copper to rise to the top and oxidize. Separating silver from copper requires nitric acid and should not be attempted at home. I’m not sure how some of the other alloys are refined. Furthermore a home chemist will never get scrap silver refined to .9999 or .999 fineness (pure). Also, as you brought up, what are you going to do with approximately 98% silver that you can’t do with 90% or 92.5% silver?
If you have large amounts of silver you want turned into ingots you can send your silver to a reputable refinery and trade your scrap for silver coins or stamped ingots. A few refineries I have had good dealings with, or that have good reputations in the jewelry industry, Hoover & Strong, Pease & Curren, McGuire & Strickland and North American Metals. You can find these companies on the Internet, I’m not affiliated with them except that I have sent scrap in to a couple of them. Regards, – Kestrel
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File this under “What Justice?”: Massachusetts motorists must pay courts, even if they prevail. (Thanks to Richard S. for the link.) Richard’s comment: “Do nothing wrong, pay the state anyway (in addition to time and aggravation, of course), while everybody else involved in the festivities gets paid by you.”
“Confess [your] faults one to another , and pray one for another, that ye may be healed. The effectual fervent prayer of a righteous man availeth much.”- James 5:16 (KJV)
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First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $300 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo, and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, and C.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 36 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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Why Keep Honey Bees?
Wandering into the woods and staying lost for months is something I love to do. I have been an survivalist for 24 years, and have been keeping bees for more than 10 of those years. With these experiences under my belt, I have begun to teach people how to be a survivalist, and one subject I focus on is the art of beekeeping.
Before I tell you the benefits of having bees and some cheap ways to keep them, I suggest that you find a book about beekeeping to help you understand the terms I use and show you more details on how to keep bees for the long haul. One of the best books I have read is The ABC & XYZ of Bee Culture. I also suggest that you try to find some beekeeping courses in your area—not only to learn more about it, but to connect with peers and mentors. For my disclaimer, you should also research your local and state laws on beekeeping.
Apis mellifera, more commonly referred to as the honey bee, is one of the most beneficial insects in the world. Did you know that we have the honey bee to thank for one third of all the food we eat? Why, without the honey bee, we would mostly eat rice, wheat, and corn instead of the wonderful variety of fruits, vegetables, and nuts we enjoy every day. Not only do honey bees help make more food from pollination, they make a wide variety of products as well.
The most recognizable product, honey, a sweet food made by bees from the nectar of flowers. Aside from its common use in sweetening teas, honey is used to treat burns, alleviate allergies, and use in IVs (intravenous) for blood transfusions. It is also well known as a key ingredient in king’s mead, honey wine and man’s first alcoholic beverage. It is great for cooking in place of sugar, and has more nutritional value than cane or corn sugar. Honey has an endless shelf life when stored at room temperature in a sealed container. Most raw natural honey crystallizes, providing the survivalist with an endless supply of sugar that never goes bad.
Bee pollen, or pollen from flowers that is collected by bees during pollination, is harvested and used to fight allergies and treating mild cases of hay fever. Medications that use pollen include Claritin (loratadine), Benadryl (diphenhydramine), and chlorophrenamine. Pollen is a great source of carbohydrates and is used to provide athletes energy boots.
Propolis, a resinous mixture that honey bees collect, relieves inflammation, viral diseases, ulcers, and superficial burns or scalds. It is also believed to promote heart health, strengthen the immune system, and reduce the chances of cataracts . Old beekeepers recommend that a piece of propolis be kept in the mouth as a remedy for a sore throat.
Beeswax, a natural wax produced in the hive, has long been called the ancient man’s plastic, and is used as such today. Common products you see beeswax used in include body creams, coating for cheeses, cosmetics, fine candles, furniture and shoe polishes, modeling materials to create jewelry and sculptures, pharmaceuticals, among hundreds of other items. It is often mixed with other ingredients such as olive oil (sweet oil) and sometimes paraffin. For hundreds of years, beeswax was used as a sealant or lubricant for bullets in cap and ball, and firearms that use black powder. Beeswax was also used to stabilize the military explosive Torpex, before it was replaced by a petroleum-based product.
Apitherapy is the medical use of bee products—most commonly associated with bee venom therapy, which uses bee venom in the use of health conditions. The active component of bee venom is melittin, which has a powerful anti-inflammatory action. Bee venom is a complex mix of a variety of peptides and proteins, some of which have strong neurotoxic and immunogenic effects. The most well-known bee venom therapy is for autoimmune diseases and multiple sclerosis. Bee venom therapy is also used to treat arthritis, bursitis, tendonitis, dissolving scar tissue (keloids), and herpes zoster, among other illnesses. Just a little sting and you have just been to the doctor.
As you have just read, the benefits of keeping honey bees for products and pollination is infinite. Not only can you use these products yourself, you can sell them to make money at local farmers markets or boutiques, or barter with clans around the woods. I recommend keeping three to five hives at your home or survival camp. The benefits of the honey bee can not be matched for the survivalist.
Now that I have told you some of the many the benefits of having bees, I am going to tell you the basic style of beekeeping and some cheap ways to keep bees. Again, my focus is on survival beekeeping, or “off the grid” beekeeping. I will give you a list of what you need, and then tell you how to make some of the items, or find them cheap. Once again, I suggest that you find a book about beekeeping to help you understand the terms I use and the different kinds of hives available for beekeeping. You can find books everywhere—used book stores and yard sales are the cheapest, and you may even find used equipment there as well.
As a beekeeper you must have protection. Beekeepers suits can be expensive—cost of protective gear ranges from $100-$200, depending on what you get (hoods and gloves, full body suits, etc.). Suits can be found online, in beekeeping stores, swap meets, or yard sales. However, if you’d like to take a thrifty approach you need to have:
· High rubber boots, which can be found at farm supply stores or retail centers such as Wal-Mart. Make sure you own a pair that you can get in and out of quickly and can go over your pants.
· Pants that can be tucked into your boots. I like to use duct tape to tape the boots onto the pants so your legs and feet are completely protected.
· Long-sleeve shirts than can bed tucked in to your pants.
· Hooded jackets, which can be cinched tightly around your face, so only your face shows.
· A ball cap worn under the hood—the starting point of a screened hood. To make this, stitch screen over the top of the hooded jacket and then use duck tape all around the screen to keep the bees out. The cap pushes the screen away from your face.
· Welding gloves that you duck tape the ends to the jacket sleeves so you’re all sealed up.
Another cheap way is to use a rain suit that you can duct tape your gloves, boots, waist, and stitch a screen over the face. Now that you are protected from head to toe, let’s focus on where you will keep the bees, or the bee hive. The most commonly used hive is called a Langstroth hive. It is made as an open top hive and holds frames that can be removed to inspect brood (aka baby bees or larva) and to pull honey out of the hive. You can order a pre-built hive or find plans to build your own hive from the internet. There are also many books on how build and use the Langstroth hive. I will repeat myself again: find a book and use it as a resource. And take any classes you can find in your area. I have been keeping bees for more than 10 years, and have lost hives over my learning experience. But just like any thing, you never know until you try.
Now that you have your protective gear, a hive for the bees, and a book to reference, you are ready for the bees. There are nearly 20,000 species of bees—honey bees represent a small fraction of the species with between seven and 11 species and 44 subspecies—and they come from all around the globe. Bees can be ordered online, and from local bee clubs—most are shipped via UPS. A package of bees can cost around $80-$200, depending on the species that you decide to purchase. The package weighs between three to four pounds, and has around 10 to 20 thousand bees inside, which is a good number to start building your hive. Bees can be installed into the hive in a manner of minutes—and if you take your time, you can watch them get to work in the hive immediately.
Naturally, my favorite bee is the free bee. Free bees can be found when bees swarm, which happens when the queen bee leaves a colony with a group of worker bees in search of a new hive. They often gather in trees or the eves of houses, which leave them in harms way by people who do not want them around. By offering to collect swarms, you can get free bees for your hive. Put an advertisement in the newspaper, or local listing, that you are willing to remove swarms. When the swarm first settles down and forms a cluster, it is fairly simple to capture. Swarms normally last no more than 24 hours, so you must be ready. To capture a swarm, you’ll need:
· A box or a bucket with a lid. I use five gallon buckets that have a hole in the top laced with screen so the bees are able to breathe until you can put them into a hive.
· A soft brush and a wide scraper. These help to move the bees, if needed.
· A ladder to climb on to get to the bees so you are not reaching up in the air swatting at them—sometimes they are high in the trees, or the roof of the house.
· Your protective gear—you do not want to get stung when collecting a swarm of bees for your hive.
When collecting a swarm of bees in a bush or tree, put the bucket below the area the swarm is in and give the branch a good shake. Let the nest fall into the bucket. Use the brush to sweep the remaining bees into the bucket, and then place the lid on the bucket. If the swarm is on something that you cannot shake, take the wide scraper and place it so you can scoop the bees and place them into the bucket. Use your brush to sweep the bees on the scraper and drop them in the bucket as well. When you have nearly 90 percent of the bees in the bucket, place the lid on your bucket and look to see if the remaining bees start landing on the lid. They will start to land on the bucket and fan, which tells the bees that the queen is inside the bucket and they are moving. Let the bucket set for 30 minutes and let the bees inside and outside of the bucket collect on the lid. Then pop the top of the bucket so all the bees drop to the bottom of the bucket and take the lid off. Flip the lid and brush the bees on the lid into the bucket. Then replace the lid and take the bees to their new hive.
When you get to the hive you’re going to place the bees in, open it and remove four to five frames, or top bars, out of your way. Pop the bucket on the lid once more so the bees fall to the bottom of the bucket and open the lid. Then shake bees in the bucket into the hive. Once you have the swarm in the hive, replace the frames or top bars and cover the hive. You have successfully placed your bees into the hive. Be sure to check the bees in one week to see if they are building comb.
Now you have your bee hive. Read your book and if you have any questions, feel free to contact me at ABEEFriendlyCompany@gmail.com. I would enjoy reading about your experiences and looking at photos of your work. If you reside in Wyoming, I often offer courses through my company, A BEE Friendly Company—details can be found on my business Facebook page.
As I said, I am a survivalist and love the outdoors and keeping bees will get you outdoors more. Like gardening, the work you put in makes great rewards. Keep your Head up and your powder dry.
Hello,
I am a fairly new reader to SurvivalBlog. I must say I enjoy reading it and have found a ton of useful knowledge here. I have a question If you have time to answer. I have a large amount of old U.S. Coins and would like to refine the silver out of them myself. Is the possible for a do-it-yourselfer? If so, what is the best process for this? I am also considering melting down some old silverware and jewelry. I would want to cast my own mini bars or silver coins for ease of storing and bartering. I have reviewed Coinflation.com and have determined that I have a lot of coins in the pre-1965 range that contain 90% silver. (Which of course is worth about 25 times more than the face valve of the U.S. currency itself.)
For WTSHTF, I want to be prepared as much as I am able to for my situation at hand. I have already been stockpiling ammunition and canned goods. (I’m still a long ways from where I would like to be but I’m working on it one paycheck at a time.) – Trey H.
JWR Replies: I do not recommend melting any recognizable U.S., Canadian, or Mexican coins to cast into ingots. Here is my reasoning: First and foremost, coins have a known, well-recognized purity and value, which makes them ideal for barter. But privately-cast ingots will ALWAYS be treated with great suspicion, and the buyer may demand that they be assayed. Second, U.S. pre-1965 dimes, quarters and half dollars are 90% silver, alloyed with a hardener added, to give them sufficient durability for the rigors of day-to-day circulation. In contrast, silver ingots are typically cast as .999 fine (virtually pure) silver. So creating your own ingots would require a lot of time to not just melt the coins but also require adding nitric acid and extra time to skim away the hardener, which would be set aside as “dross”. Why risk chemical and heat burns and spend your precious time and your expensive fuel to melt coins to make them into something LESS recognizable, for barter? That simply makes no sense. Unless you are an expert artisan that is making jewelry, there is no point in melting silver coins. For barter, even silver jewelry is better left in “scrap” form — just “as is”. Furthermore, silver chains can be cut into incremental lengths with diagonal cutters or a cold chisel, to facilitate small barter transactions. This is much more difficult to do with thicker ingots, at least with any precision.
If you have a large quantity of scrap silver, them you are better off trading it to a well known reputable coin dealer. You can ask for either pre-1965 (90% silver) coins or .999 fine one-ounce silver “rounds”, in exchange. In the next few years, as silver advances past $50 per try ounce, I predict that 1/4-ounce and 1/2-ounce coins will be made in larger numbers than today. (A one ounce coin is simply becoming too valuable to be used for small transactions.)
Reader W.E.P. mentioned this: Feds tracking articles that include “zombie apocalypse”. [JWR’s Comment: Of course “zombie apocalypse” is often used as to describe other disasters. This leads me to ask: Are the spooks looking for clues or cues for socioeconomic collapse?]
o o o
Reader D.V. and Stephen F. both recommended this article over at KK* Cool Tools: Homesteading Alone. (It is three book reviews, in one.)
My current publisher (the Atria Books Division of Simon & Schuster) asked me to create a few instructional videos, to help promote the upcoming release of “Survivors: A Novel of the Coming Collapse”. The first of these is already available on YouTube: Do-It Yourself (DIY) Rotary Hand Awl. Sorry that the video looks a bit amateurish. And I couldn’t keep a couple of our roosters from crowing in the background. I’m an absolute greenhorn at this.
By using tight close-ups, the pretty scenery at the Rawles Ranch was not shown–for the sake of OPSEC. (Some of the mountains that could be seen would be recognizable.)
Shooting the first video, editing it, and adding the titles turned out to be much more time-consuming than I had anticipated. But it was a great way for my family to learn some new video and editing skills. I will make more of these videos as time permits.
First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $300 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo, and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, and C.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 36 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
I am writing our family’s security preparations, specifically the weapon selection and breakdown per family member. I will also describe our “Battle Rattle” (web gear) and survival kits.
First, a little background and base information. I am a retired US Army First Sergeant with over 30 years of military service. I have performed multiple jobs of my lengthy career, mainly in the Combat Arms. I was a Mortarman and Automatic Rifleman in the Airborne Infantry. I was a Unit Armorer, Supply Sergeant and Rifle Platoon Sergeant in the Mechanized Infantry and a Scout Platoon Sergeant and Cavalry First Sergeant in a Brigade Reconnaissance Troop. Those were all active duty positions. I was also a Military Policeman for two years in the US Army Reserve. I retired in late 2010.
My family began preparation for crisis, disaster, TEOTWAWKI in March of 2011. Our efforts have been adversely impacted in that the Veterans Administration has not yet paid my award for Service Connected Disability. I have been waiting almost a year. But, I collected and saved some things over three decades in the Army. I believe that this military equipment will be very valuable in any survival situation. I owned several guns before we began preparation for the pending tragedies. We have purchased multiple weapons specifically for WTSHTF. We have four members of our “Nuclear Family” as Jerry Ahern defines in his book Survive!: The Disaster, Crisis and Emergency Handbook. I have a wife and two teenage sons. I wanted each family member to have both “stand off” and short range firing capabilities. I consider “stand off” to be a rifle or shotgun with slugs and short range to be a pistol.
I will carry a Bushmaster M4 Carbine. This is the civilian version of the U.S. military’s main assault weapon. It is a 5.56mm (.223 Remington) rifle. I also have a Colt Gold Cup Series 70 M1911A1 Cal.45 pistol for a short range weapon. I built my web gear using the vest type suspenders (as opposed to the old LC-1). I kept the two small arms ammunition cases on the pistol belt so to free up the ammo pockets on the vest for a hand held radio, GPS and some survival supplies. This set up holds a lensatic compass, 2 one-quart canteens, a canteen cup, pistol holster, fixed blade knife and a small buttpack. The web gear is a complete survival kit containing all the basic necessities for shelter (poncho and emergency blanket), water storage/purification, First Aid, sanitation items (toilet paper, baby wipes, soap), food procurement (fishing kit), plus several pocket knives and multi-tools (pliers and hammer types). The web gear holds about 200 rounds of 5.56mm ammo for the M4 and 50 rounds for the M1911 pistol.
My oldest son is assigned a Mossberg Model 88 12 gauge pump shotgun and a Smith & Wesson Model 19-4 .357 Magnum pistol. His web gear was built using the LC-1 suspenders and a cotton-web pistol belt. I attached a larger buttpack on this Load Bearing Equipment (LBE). It essentially hold the same survival items as my set up, with the addition of wire saw and a snack bag containing trail mix, Slim Jims, Beef Jerky, Nutri-bars and Jolt gum. He has the same 2 one quart canteens, canteen cup and 2 ammo pouches as me. With the addition of a shotgun bandoleer, he can carry 100 rounds of mixed 12 gauge ammo (slugs and “00” buckshot), plus about 80 rounds of .357 Magnum (6- in the cylinder, 4-speedloaders + a box).
I am giving my wife a Savage Model 24J over/under .22 LR/20 gauge combination rifle/shotgun. She also has a Walther PPK .380 handgun. She purchased one of those tactical vests that the SWAT teams use. We hooked the vest on a civilian fanny pack, the kind with the Nalgene water bottles on both sides of the zippered pouch. The vest / fanny pack combination is also a complete survival kit. Combining the sling on the rifle/shotgun and a sleeve on the buttstock, there is 20 rounds of mixed shotgun slugs and numbers 3, 4 & 6 shot. I inserted a prescription pill bottle in one of the shotgun shell loops on the sling. It holds 27 rounds of 22 Long Rifle. She can carry about 40 rounds total for the shotgun, 200 rounds for the .22 rifle and 74 pistol cartridges (3 x 8 round magazines for the PPK .380, plus a spare box of 50 cartridges.) Granted, the Savage over/under is not a great defensive weapon. But, it is a diverse tool for hunting food.
Since my youngest son is somewhat leery of rifles or shotguns with strong recoil, I have assigned him my Henry AR-7 Air Force Survival Rifle. As with the Savage 24J, it would not be my first choice for security. I will point out that the magazine holds 8 .22 LR cartridges. I purchased three additional magazines (to supplement the two that come with the rifle) and affixed a small pouch to hold the magazines on the inside of the buttstock. In very short order, he could put out a hail of .22 LR rounds. I also gave him a [Hi-Standard] Sentinel 9-shot .22 revolver. His web gear consists of the fanny pack with the two Nalgene water bottles.
In addressing the rucksack / backpack assignments, I will open with stating that I am still using my large frame rucksack that I had as a paratrooper in the early 1980’s. It may be more than I should be carrying with my current medical conditions, but I believe that I am mentally strong enough to push myself into bearing that weight. Periodically, I will “Ruck Up” and go for a Forced March to prove that I can still handle the weight. I have always subscribed to the theory that “It is better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it”. On the outside of the military ruck I attached an entrenching tool (small, folding shovel), a 24” machete / saw, a 2 quart collapsible canteen and a small hatchet. I won’t go over all the contents of the rucksack, but I will say that it holds similar provisions as the web gear survival kit, but in greater quantity or more elaborate spread. For example, the first aid kit in the ruck is larger than the buttpack. Where the buttpack contained a $2.50 Space Blanket, the rucksack has the military version of the $12.95 All Weather Blanket. I will credit John D. McCann’s book Build the Perfect Survival Kit for helping me choose the contents.
My wife and kids have smaller backpacks. They are using the Army Combat Uniform (ACU) camouflage pattern medium rucksacks that Army National Guard Recruiters give out as enlistment perks. They are frameless packs with multiple, zipper-closed compartments. They hold complete survival necessities, including ponchos, poncho liners, folding saw or hatchet, mess, sewing, fishing, fire starting and first aid “kits”. There is also space for emergency blankets, Mountain House or MRE entrees, Datrex Rations, toilet paper, baby wipes and a waterproof box holding insect repellant, sunscreen, Chapstick, water purification tablets, baby powder and a small tune of Curel hand cream.
Our packs are more “Survival Kits” than full “Bug Out” Bags”. We each have a separate bag with clothing, more rations, personal hygiene items and a few manuals such as Shelters, Shacks, and Shanties: and JWR’s How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It. We also carry an assortment of other books on wilderness survival, first aid, prescription drugs, and home remedies.
I carry a versatile hand truck in my SUV. The cart will hold our Bug Out Bags, a case of bottled water, 1 case of MREs and a milk crate with auto items (larger First Aid Kit, tow rope, folding shovel, field shower, roll of garbage bags and camp toilet seat). This ingenious item is lightweight, but strong enough to hold 400 pounds. It can be set up as a cart on four wheels and be pushed/pulled down any hard ball road. Or, it can be stood up as a hand truck on two wheels and be dragged through the field. (My plan to affix a police ballistic riot shield to the cart has not yet been fulfilled).We also have a collapsible hand truck for any last minute, additional items. Of course, we would only be using these hand trucks and carts if we were forced to walk to our “Bug Out Location”. Our intentions are to “Bug In” at our home. One quick note about storing weapons in my truck: I do not carry all these weapons and bulk supply of ammunition around with me during routine use of the vehicle. In my mind, such practice would not be very reasonable. I do keep the AR-7 Survival Rifle and the Savage Model 24J over/under .22 LR/20 gauge in the truck for most travel within our region. My wife and I both have concealed weapons permits in our home state. At any given time, I have the Colt .45 Auto and she has the Walther PPK .380 or Smith and Wesson .380 Bodyguard. We each purchased at least four extra magazines.
In closing, I feel compelled to state that we prefer a “Bug In” over “Bug Out” scenario, if we are to face any type of crisis or disaster situation. I am confident that we have covered the required security considerations with the mixture and breakdown of weapons on hand. The topography of the land surrounding our home allows us to engage potential threats with all four “Stand Off” weapons: M4 Carbine, AR-7 Rifle, Mossberg Shotgun and both barrels of the Savage over/under system. The handgun calibers: .45 ACP, .357 Magnum and .380 Auto are ample defense in protecting us in the odd event that robbers penetrate our perimeter. I have plans to enhance our capabilities with the purchase of additional weapons: Ruger Mini-14, Remington 870 20 gauge Pump, Smith and Wesson Governor .410 gauge/.45 Colt, S&W Model 686 .357 Magnum (4” barrel) and Springfield M6 22 LR /. 410 Gauge. My oldest son questioned why I am looking at new revolvers instead of new automatics. I reminded him that a revolver has less moving parts to lube, higher potential to break/jam/malfunction and does not have to be disassembled to clean. I also reminded him that an $1,800 Kimber .45 Auto is reduced to single-shot by a broken magazine spring.
JWR Adds: Instead of buying a Ruger Mini-14 as you mentioned, I’d instead recommend buying a second M4gery. This will give you commonality of training, magazines, accessories, and spare parts. I’d also recommend a .44 Magnum revolver, rather than a Smith and Wesson Governor. Both .410 buckshot and slugs are poor man stoppers, and most factory .45 Colt loadings are very mild. (They are loaded that way with liability in mind, since there are large numbers of Colt single-action Peacemakers still in circulation, and some of these date to before 1896, when Colt switched from iron frames to steel frames.) Furthermore, .44 Magnum and .44 Special have a wider rim than .45 Colt. Most revolver extractors can “miss” the scanty rim on .45 Colt brass, causing a very slow-to-remedy “extractor over rim” jam. This sort of jam is a nuisance at the range, but in the midst of a gunfight it could prove to be either indelibly memorable, or tragic.
I was just rereading the original posting about “beans, bullets and hygiene”. The author wrote to be sure to check out the discount bins for after season sales on holiday soaps. He wrote that while the soaps may be strongly scented “nobody will care after TEOTWAWKI what they smell like”. But actually, it may matter.
We live in the country. We’re not daily assaulted by the highly aromatic city folks wearing their cologne, perfume and scented body washes. So when we do happen to come in contact with them, we can smell them coming from quite a distance.
Its sorta’ the same as noise. Today’s world is so full of the noise of cars passing by, planes overhead, radios and television playing (not to mention those things people stick in their ears) that you don’t even notice some neighbor pounding a nail or running a chainsaw.
But after all goes quiet, and after daily showers become much less common, folks’ hearing and smelling will become much more sensitive. You’ll hear saws running and know “someone” has heat and gas. If a neighbor appears cleaner than anyone else, and especially if they smell “fresher” (that is, perfumey/smelly/soapy) than the usual, you’ll guess that they have more water, more soap, and therefore maybe more “other stuff”. This is not good OPSEC.
We believe that when going out to community meetings, or on other occasions of contact outside your immediate group, it may be well to wear older, dirtier clothes so you don’t attract notice. It may also be well to keep in mind that the person who smells 21st Century will be extraordinarily noticeable when everyone else is living 19th Century.
Our suggestion is that in a dark world, don’t show your lights. In a world of no gas, don’t be the only one to advertise having fuel for generators and saws. And in a world without instant hot and cold water, don’t smell like Paris Hilton. – Jim in N. Ohio
Mr. Rawles,
I wanted to call to your reader’s attention to the use of soap nuts in place of traditional laundry soap. We first discovered them when looking for a chemical and fragrance free alternative for cloth diapers and baby clothes. We now use them for all of our laundry and for many other cleaning jobs around the house. They are all natural, economical, versatile, and easy to store – taking up much less room than traditional laundry detergent. They can be reused several times and then composted. They also work as a natural fabric softener. which is great for line drying. Soap nuts are fine for septic and gray water systems.
Other uses include:
Hand soap
Dishwasher soap
Window cleaner
All purpose cleaner
Shampoo
Pest and mosquito repellant
Carpet cleaner
Pet shampoo
Jewelry cleaner
Soap nuts are already very economical. To get even more for your money, I recommend:
Buy in bulk and split the order with friends and family
Don’t buy the “whole” soap nuts. I prefer breaking them anyway to better release the cleaning agent – The suppliers don’t always list the pieces on their web site, but if you call them they often times will sell the “broken” soap nuts at a largely discounted price, especially if you are buying in bulk.
Grind your own powder and make your own liquid. It’s easy to learn and there are many instructions and recipes to be found on the Internet.
There are various ways to can and preserve the soap nuts liquid, so you can store it in quantity and have it readily available. We store our soap nuts in a five gallon bucket with a lid, and this lasts our family of four a very long time. Soap nuts make a great barter item to keep on hand, since they store easily, take up so little space, and have multiple uses. – WoodsyMama
James,
I wanted to add something to the recent hygiene article and responses that I have read and that is dental floss. Dental floss is one of the single best tools for not only healthy teeth but, just as importantly, healthy gums. Gum disease and tooth decay has been shown to affect overall health and contributes to heart disease and possible brain trauma due to infection. Dental floss is compact and easy to store and it lasts forever (you might need to check that regarding the ‘flavored’ varieties), there is no reason not to pick up a couple extra packs every time you replace toothbrushes and toothpaste because it could be the difference between saving your teeth and having to learn to survive on broth.
I also wanted to add a hearty endorsement for using a safety razor, as per the article posted on learning to shave like grandpa. I started using a safety razor a year ago and I will never go back. The shave is smoother and easier on the skin, the razor is cleaner because there is less tendency for a single blade to get ‘clogged’, and the blades are indeed cheaper as well as lasting longer since they are double sided. I don’t have an abundance of facial hair so I have only gone through one pack of double sided razors since started shaving this way. Its better for your face, less expensive, and more durable – the perfect set of features for a prepper\-friendly shaving kit. Regards, – Doug W.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
In reference to J.C.R.’s article on Everyday Carry Items, I have a rather nondescript looking purse that I found at a thrift store that I use for Everyday Carry (EDC). I keep using that purse to carry because it is so handy with it’s numerous compartments inside. I have found nothing like it! In one of those compartments, I keep a “Mini Survival Kit”. I saw this at the SurvivaLogic web site. It fits in an Altoids breath mints tin. It’s the handiest thing ever. SurvivaLogic recommended matches, fishing hooks and line, flash light, compass, knife (high quality with file, toothpick, scissors, tweezers), and a mirror.
In my kit, I put a small picket knife, just a boring old knife I had; maybe someday I will move up to a better one if I find one. I also put in a flint with striker, a small flashlight with AAA battery (not stored inside, to prevent corrosion), fishing hooks, a small compass, a small whistle, a saw, a bobbin of thread, a needle, and one lanyard that came with one of the “Key ring” size accessories listed above. My thought is that, if need be, I could put almost all of my little kit on the lanyard and carry it around my neck. The thread could be used for fishing, mending, or stitches (in skin). The Altoid tin is sturdy, so it keeps the stuff from getting beat up and dirty in my purse. It fits perfectly in a tiny little compartment. I just can’t keep it in my purse to fly.
A first aid kit in an Altoids can: Tiny bottle of essential oils: 3 parts lavender oil and 1 part peppermint oil. This is good for pain of many kinds, sunburns, etc. Band-Aids, gauze. Tube of Burt’s Bees’ lip balm with essential oils; the bees wax is good for many skin ailments. Witch hazel: good for insect bites. Body thermometer. Safety pins. Aloe Vera gel. I am no expert on wilderness survival, but there are many tricks that can be used to utilize the materials at hand. I suppose that Boy Scout training would come in handy. In the absence of a bandage, cotton fabric could be torn and tied around a wound. Certain wild plants (bark for aspirin) can be used for healing– I need to educate myself.
In the plethora of credit card slots in my purse, that I don’t hardly fill up, I have lots of information in little business card size books or laminated cards. It would be perfect to keep a small phone book or small first aid book. I like to make up small books in Publisher in the size of a credit card to fit in those slots. They are also a good place to keep a small mirror and/or a flat magnifier. – Anita L.
. I have a wife and two teenage sons. I wanted each family member to have both “stand off” and short range firing capabilities. I consider “stand off” to be a rifle or shotgun with slugs and short range to be a pistol.
for helping me choose the contents.