Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader B.C. wrote to mention: “It has occurred to me that preparedness should also include how to cook for the crowd that shows up at TEOTWAWKI. I just came across a page with links to recipes for cooking for 20 or more people.”

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JRH Enterprises is having a sale on new third generation Pinnacle auto-gated PVS-14 night vision units. All of these have a adjustable gain and a five year warranty.  The standard Gen 3 unit is now on sale for $2,895. And for the first time JRH is putting on sale their upgraded (Gen 3+) version of the PVS-14 for $3,275. (I have one of the latter here at the ranch, and I love it. With a Picatinny rail mount adapter it is very versatile–I can use it both as a weapon sight and as a monocular.

   o o o

I’m scheduled for a one hour interview with Michael Ruppert’s Lifeboat Hour radio show at 9 p.m. eastern time Sunday, February 27th. Please feel free to call in to the show if you have any preparedness questions that would be of interest to the majority of listeners. It will also be available post facto as a downloadable podcast.

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STRATFOR analysis: Mexico’s Gun Supply and the 90 Percent Myth

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Bill Buppert recently posted a review of the Leatherman MUT tool, over at his ZeroGov blog. (OBTW, Bill has an interesting collection of famous oratory video clips at his site.)





Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 33 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 33 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Dairy Goats 101, by Country Lady

For those of you on your retreat property and wanting to add sustainability to your food supply, I present this article to give you an overview of goat-keeping.  Why choose goats?  The advantages of goats are manifold:

• Goats are smaller, therefore require less feed, space and fencing than a cow.

• Goat milk is less allergenic and more closely resembles human milk than cow milk.

• Dairy goats typically produce two quarts to a gallon of milk per day – a usable amount for a family, especially if no refrigeration is available.

• Goats kid (give birth) five months after breeding, so you can have a year-round supply of milk and meat fairly easily and inexpensively. 

• Goat manure comes in convenient pellets – much easier to clean up and use for compost or mulch than cow pies.

How to Choose Your Dairy Goat
Let’s start with breed selection.  There may be a certain breed prominent in your area, they may do better in your climate or just be more available.  See if that breed will meet your needs.  Here are the basic dairy goat breeds:

Saanens are pure white and used in many commercial and small dairies.  They are calm and bred for good milk production.  They need fences well-attached at the base as they have a tendency to burrow under them.

Toggenburgs came from Switzerland.  They are tan-colored with white and black highlights.  They are adventuresome and tough with a typically short lactation period – a good thing if you do not want to milk during a long-cold winter.

Alpines are my favorite breed.  They have long lactations and many will continue to give milk year after year with only one or two breedings.  I can attest to this fact because my dear Helga, grown when I bought her, was never pregnant in the 14 years she lived with us, but she gave milk enough for my children, orphan lambs and a few calves. 

Nubians are a large breed with distinctly large hanging ears.  They were originally a meat/milk breed, but now are mostly known for rich milk production. La Manchas are a milking breed from Spain, with miniature ears and weigh about 130 pounds.

Nigerian Dwarfs , an African breed, are small with rich milk.   Easier to fence and feed than the larger breeds. Crossbreeds are excellent for hybrid vigor and to develop characteristics you prefer.  We want medium to small goats with rich milk and long lactations, so we are using Nubian/Alpine/Nigerian crosses in our herd. 

Once you have a breed in mind, start looking at animals.  Around here (the Pacific Northwest) Craigslist is a great source if you are careful!  Plan to buy at least two goats, preferably already acquainted – they are herd animals and need companions to thrive.  You want a healthy, bright-eyed doe with a shiny coat.  Her udder should be large and well-attached under her back belly with two large nipples that squirt milk straight down.  Watch her being milked to be sure she can be handled.  Her legs should be straight, her tail should be up in the air and she should like humans.  However, if goats are used to a man, they may have a bit of trouble adjusting to a woman and vice-versa.  Our Nubian lead goat, Dee-Dee, adores my husband, talks to him and follows him around.  Luckily, our milking doe, Zella, was reared by a woman.  Zella loves me, comes off the hillside if I call her and would rather spend time with me than the herd.  Our 14-year-old son is able to milk her, but he spent a lot of time winning her over with carrots and apples before she was comfortable with him. 

With each goat you purchase get their date of birth, breeding, number of kids, any kidding or health problems, when she was last wormed, etc.  If she is bred, be sure to get a good estimate of the kidding date.  Stay far away from runny noses, respiratory noises and anything that makes you think a goat is unhealthy.  Expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $300 per goat.  We paid $45 each for our seven brush eaters, which includes a fine Nubian doe and a Nigerian Dwarf doe.  Watching Craigslist we were able to purchase three large well-bred Alpines for a total of $125 because the people couldn’t take care of them. 

I have transported goats in the backseat of my car, but nowadays, we use the pick-up with a canopy, tossing one of the dog cushions in the back with some hay to nibble during the trip.  Be sure you have a safely fenced pen and shelter all ready. 

Food and Shelter
We got back into goats when we found that our retreat property was heavily infested with poison oak.  Goats are browsers more than grazers, so brush like poison oak, blackberries, scotch broom and other noxious weeds are delicious to them, as is tree bark and most of your flowers, garden vegetables and fruit trees.  Good fences are a must.   We use welded cattle panels about 5 x 16 feet costing about $24.00 each to fence off our gardens and orchards, topped with deer tape to a height of about 6 feet.

Our herd roams free on about 30 acres with a creek and mountain as natural boundaries.  At night they are locked securely in a well-ventilated barn for protection from predators. We built sleeping stands out of plywood and blocks to keep them off our damp ground.  Five or more goats cuddle on each stand.

Our goats forage year-round along the creek and hill.  They receive regular supplements, mineral blocks and occasional hay if we get snow.  Most goats will be on hay – a mixture of grass and alfalfa seems to produce the best milk – but fresh feed is highly desirable.   Goats will not touch dirty feed so be sure your feeders are off the ground.  We mix our own grain from bulk oats, whole wheat, split peas, flax, kelp and molasses.  Always provide plenty of clean, fresh drinking water and wash the container often.

The most common killers of goats are domestic dogs.  Do not ever leave your herd at the mercy of anyone’s dogs, including your own.   We have one dog that we trust around the goats at any time and one dog that we keep an eye on whenever we bring a new goat around.

Liquid Gold – Start Milking!
Realize that milking is a twice-a-day-365-days-a-year chore.  We share milk with a neighbor and she milks whenever we are away.  Milking every twelve hours is best, but we milk at 8:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. because it suits our schedule better.   If you have never milked before, the best way to learn is from an experienced milker.  Here is a description of the process: The milk goat is placed in a stand, usually wooden with a slot for the neck that can be closed at the top to keep the goat in.  A pan of grain with cut up fruits and vegetables is placed at the front of the stand so the doe can eat while you milk. You come alongside the goat and sit on a stool that gives you adequate reach as you face the udder.  Loose hairs and soil are gently brushed off the udder area so none can fall into the milk pail or jar.  To begin milking, you place your thumb and first finger about two inches above the bottom of the teat.  Squeeze these fingers tightly together to capture the milk in the bottom of the teat.  Then bring your middle, ring and pinkie fingers around the teat one at a time to push the milk out and into your container.  Release your thumb and the teat fills with milk so you can repeat the process.  Nothing came out?  Try again.  Most children and adults are able to catch the system and rhythm of milking in a few minutes; they just need practice to strengthen hand and finger muscles. 

One method is to milk into a seamless stainless steel bucket.  This allows you to use both hands, saving time.  However, if your goat tends to kick or move around, or if you have weaker hands, I suggest using a pint or quart jar.  You hold the jar with one hand, milk with the other and change hands as you go back and forth between the teats (goats only have two; cows have four).  Goat teats are larger and easier to milk than cow teats.  When the flow slows down, massage the udder for 20 seconds or more and she will drop more milk.  Massaging is the key to maintaining and increasing production.  If you watch a young kid nurse, you will see it butt the udder like a punching bag to get more milk let down.  Massaging is a gentle version of this. Immediately put the milk into clean jars and place in the refrigerator.  Three things can put an off-flavor in your milk:  strong weeds, dirty containers, and nearness to a buck.  Watch the diet of your milk goat, keep milk utensils spotlessly clean and keep that buck far away from your milker during breeding season.

Flowing with Milk and Honey
So what do you do with all that milk?  I love to drink it warm within a few minutes of milking, which the teens find pretty disgusting!   They mix their chilled goat milk with a little vanilla or hot chocolate powder.  Their new drink is a blend of oranges, milk, egg and some sweetener for an Orange Julius type drink.  Very tasty.  We also make kefir and yogurt, use it in pancake batter and bread dough, chowders and other dishes.  In the past I have made goat cheese, which seldom got beyond the curd stage because cheese curds are delicious.  We also use milk and eggs for the dogs and cats so we are not dependent on store-bought kibbles.  I have experimented with leaving the goat milk out to replicate a no refrigerator scenario (like most people in the world experience daily!).  The milk clabbers – that is, it gets a bit thicker and tangier day by day.  After about three days it has the consistency of cream cheese with a tart flavor.  Whereas pasteurized, homogenized store milk will rot, clean raw milk will be usable warm or cool.

Adding a Buck
Keeping a buck (intact male goat) is not for novices.  I’ve had goats for several decades but this is the first time I have kept a buck.  We are doing it for sustainability reasons.  It will not be practical to take the goats to a buck in another town if gas becomes too expensive or travel becomes hazardous.  My husband and I considered the pros and cons very carefully before taking this step.  A buck means extra fencing, working out breeding plans so you have a consistent milk supply.  Your goat herd can triple with one round of breedings, so we discussed what to do with the offspring.  We decided that we could handle a smaller buck with good milkers in his pedigree.  Wanting richer milk for calories and a higher fat intake also influenced our choice.  When we saw a Nubian/Nigerian Dwarf cross for sale on Craigslist, we were pretty sure we had found our herd sire.  Cappy (Cappuccino) is currently five months old and already capable of breeding all but our tallest does.   Be fully aware of the bizarre habits of bucks during breeding season!  Even our cute young buck does things too gross to describe in this article that make him appealing to does in heat.  

Caring for the Kids
Having a buck brings babies in five months.  And goats can seldom have just one; twins and even triplets are not uncommon.  Called “kids”, nothing is cuter than newborn goats!  We try to keep our animals in as natural a setting as possible, so our does will stay with their kids for the first week while the colostrum (first milk with special antibodies and nutrients) is used up.  The second week the kids and mothers stay together at night, but separate for part of each day so we can begin milking.  This saves us from having to bottle-feed kids several times a day.  Doe kids that are going to be saved for milkers will be kept on the mother for 12 weeks, but young males will be castrated in the first few weeks (they are capable of breeding at 2 months!) and weaned at 6 weeks.  The best tool for castrating is a side-crusher.  We bought ours from Premier1 Supplies for $94.00 and printed off instructions from the internet.   All kids are disbudded (have their horn buds burned off to prevent horns from growing) at 2 to 3 days old.  We do not have horned goats and the two cannot be mixed because goats establish their pecking order with head-butting.  We bought a Rhinehart X-30 disbudding iron for $70.  The other tool needed is a pair of hoof trimmers for about $30.  If your goats have hard surfaces to walk on, their feet will wear down naturally and little trimming is necessary.  Have an experienced goat person help you learn these techniques.  You will be a pro in a short time.

Goat Psychology
What you will love about goats:  they have lots of personality, coupled with high intelligence.  What will drive you crazy about goats:  they have lots of personality, coupled with high intelligence.   So if we leave the property gate open for a few minutes because the goats are grazing elsewhere and we will be “right back”, you can count on the goats being out and over the hillside for an adventure in the blink of an eye.   If you store your hay in the barn with a simple latch, they will open it up, same for your chicken coop, your yard with the prize roses, and any other area that contains food or interest to them. On the other hand, the night that Dee-Dee refused to go back to the barn and was insistent that the herd spend the night in the garage near the house, we are pretty sure some sort of predator was waiting in there for goat dinner.   

Learn More
The best source of information about dairy goats is visiting people who have them.  Most of these dedicated goat-lovers enjoy teaching a newcomer the ropes.   I use Pat Coleby’s “Natural Goat Care ” book because I prefer natural remedies.  Amazon has lots of goat-keeping books, read the reviews to find the best ones.  Your local County Extension office should have free information about goats, as will 4-H goat clubs.  There are excellent web sites with detailed information about every imaginable goat situation.  I make herbal remedies for the few illnesses the goats have, mostly related to parasites.  We prune our friend’s honeysuckle as a safe and effective wormer which the goats devour eagerly. 

Home Business
Having a safe, healthy supply of fresh raw milk helps me care for my children in the best way possible.  We sell extra milk for $6.00 a gallon, but others sell it for much more.  So goats can be a home business as well.  Products can be milk, wethers, young does, buck service, etc.  Others make goat milk soap for a niche market.  I hope this article piques your interest in adding these capricious creatures to your survival plan.

Happy independence to all of you Preppers!



Letter Re: You are Only as Good as Your Equipment

I am a two-year every day reader of the SurvivalBlog, and going through most of the entries that people write I have noticed that the majority of people believe that in a post SHTF scenario we will be faced with daily battles with marauders trying to take or food and goods. This brings people to the assumption that they must only stock up on only ammunition and firearms. As we all know as readers of this blog that when SHTF we will not have grocery stores or any of the facilities that we take for granted as of today. We will be forced to live of the land and retrace our roots and enlist the skills that our forefathers had for generations.

I see many post on the importance of quality firearms and keeping them well maintained, but I rarely ever see a post on the importance of stocking up on and using good quality tools and equipment. “You’re only as good as your equipment” that is something I was told by my grandfather and father for as long as I can remember. I grew up on my families farm in northern Connecticut. We mainly were a vegetable farm but started taking on livestock as a hobby some years back. Everyday we use tools to fulfill or chores and duties around our farm. Whether its to plant or fix the equipment, we use or tools every single day. In a post SHTF situation we will not have a local Tractor Supply Store or Sears & Roebuck to go and pick up a new hammer or axe every time we break the handle. What you have is what you will be forced to live with for as long as things remain the way they are or you can barter a neighbor for theirs. In my years of farming I have generally found that a well maintained older tool will out last and function ten times better than most new light weight (cheap to maintain cause plastics easier to work with than forged steel) heavy duty models. This has always been the case, until my fiance got me a new axe after my main one broke this winter. 

As odd as it may sound my father and I are lumberjack hobbyists. Once a month we pack a lunch and head to the woods looking to find the perfect tree then take it down the old fashioned way with our axes. This wood will then become fire wood or if the wood is of quality it may become a mantle piece or a coffee table. So after breaking my main axe and only having a few small axes, hatchets and mauls left I was getting antsy on finding a replacement. I went to local stores such as the Tractor Supply Store and Sears & Roebuck, and didn’t find any of there tools up to my standards, this frustrated me being that our monthly date in the woods was coming up soon. Then my Fiance brings me this light weight fiber glass foreign job called the Fiskars 28″ Chopping axe the day my father and I had set a date for the woods. She swore by this company being that she is a seamstress and uses there scissors everyday and also uses their Reel Mower to mow the grass around our house and barns. During the walk through the woods I got nothing but sly remarks and under the breath snickers from my father. He had his double bit Michigan style axe made by Vaughan with a beautiful hickory handle and I had this gray and orange hollow handled axe with an almost parkerized looking head. We got to the tree and my father insisted I took the first swing, and upon my fourth or fifth draw back I realized I loved it.

Now the point of my post here is not to tell you how fun filled my day with my father was cutting down trees, but for the first I have found a well quality modern tool that stands up to everything I can throw at it. When going and looking at the prices of the Fiskars brand products I have found that anybody can afford these tools even on the tightest survivalist budget. After being so surprised with the quality of the axe I finally took a look at my fiances Fiskars Reel Mower she has been begging to show me. Now being a farmer I try to get everything done in the fastest most consistent manner as possible, so when I mow I mount a 70″ mowing deck to my Kubota. Until now this Reel Mower was just a tree huger novelty my newly gone-green fiance had been begging to show me. After looking at this mower I found that to the survivalist and post SHTF farmer and retreat owner this is the closest thing to a gas powered mower you can get. This Reel Mower has everything from adjustable blades to change the height and perfect spacing between the deck and the blades so sharpening the blade could quite possibly be a thing of the past with this mower.

Since receiving this axe I have gone ahead and replaced my splitting maul with the 28″ and 36″ Splitting axe, picked up a 14″ hatchet and an axe and knife sharpener all manufactured by Fiskars. These high quality axes all have fiberglass reinforced handles advertised as indestructible. I also purchased their innovative rain barrel system that separates the leaves and debris from the water which can be linked up to numerous barrels for as much free water storage as your budget will allow. The water out of the system is almost drinkable as it is, but I have taken it a step further fitting two Brita water filters to the end of the hose where the water enters the barrel. This ensures the water is safe enough for my animals to drink from, along with my family on those hot summer days.

if you haven’t heard of the company Fiskars, you may have heard of their sister company Gerber. These two companies both use the same quality materials and are both baked by a lifetime no-nonsense warranty. With all these quality features and materials whether your in a post-TEOTWAWKI situation or just want quality tools to get the job done without having to sacrifice all your money Fiskars seems to be the way to go. – Christopher R.

JWR Adds: Since I’m a Finnophile (I love everything made in the land of SAKO and Valmet), I have a weakness for Fiskars products. I not only have several pairs of their scissors, but also some of their axes, splitting mauls, and brush axes. I even have a Fiskars-made Valmet rifle bayonet. But I bought that more as an investment than anything else, since they are incredibly scarce.



Letter Re: When Alaskan Salmon is Chinese

Hi, Jim:
Every few weeks I buy a couple cases (of 24 cans) of canned wild Alaskan salmon canned by Bumble Bee selling for $1.99 per can (a 14.5oz can), and a quality gold tinted tapered can. Recently it has had a 2015 expiration date. In my estimation, wild salmon is an excellent unadulterated protein source with a lengthy expiration date, especially when compared to canned tuna (with traces of mercury) and canned chicken.   

Well, yesterday I went in to the same discount supermarket (the kind of no-frills market where you bag yourself and pay extra for the bag) and went straight for the salmon.  It was there at the same price but they had changed brands.  So I checked expiration date: 2012.  Yikes.  I looked closely at the can: poor quality, not evenly coated and some apparent rust at edges where can meets lid.  Then the kicker: It was marked both "Wild Alaskan Salmon" and "Product of China"   What the h*ll are the Chinese doing fishing salmon in our waters?  How can this be?  needless to say I left without buying any.  You really need to pay attention to the details, these days. – John E.



Letter Re: Antibiotics for Serious Wounds

A reader wrote to ask: “Dr. Koelker, you explained what each of the antibiotics is good for, but one major concern was unaddressed. In a TEOTWAWKI situation we may be faced with having to treat gunshot wounds. And just as likely, if not more so, we may need to treat serious lacerations, such as accidents with sharp, dirty tools. I think, as am I, the readers of this blog might be interested to know which antibiotics are the most effective in preventing infections if/when we sustain such wounds.”  

Doctor Koelker Replies:  As usual, such answers come in a short and a long form.  At the moment I won’t address details of wound cleansing, closing, cauterizing, likelihood of infection or fatality, etc., etc. 

Here is the short answer: The microbes that are likely to have been introduced into a wound determine the choice of both prophylactic and/or treatment antibiotics.  When antibiotics are given before a visible infection is apparent, the assumption is that the wound still contains bacteria in low numbers (most of which have hopefully been washed away by appropriate cleansing). Killing off these remaining microbes should prevent infection in most cases – although prophylactic treatment is not always effective.

Where do these germs come from?  This depends on the body part that was penetrated, the environment, and the source of the projectile.

Injuries that pierce the skin carry the risk of contamination from common skin microbes, primarily staph and strep germs.  When orthopedic surgeons place pins and screws in bones, they pierce the skin.  Despite careful antisepsis, perhaps a few bacteria might still be introduced into a bone, where infection can fester, causing permanent damage, limb loss, or even death.  Though in a surgical setting the risk of infection is low, the potential consequences of infection are so high that prophylactic antibiotics are standard – one dose before surgery, and one to several doses after surgery.  The intravenous antibiotic Ancef is most commonly employed (which is most similar to cephalexin, see below). 

Of the available oral antibiotics previously discussed, the best choices would be cephalexin, Augmentin, Avelox or Levaquin.  Less potent alternatives, if the former are unavailable, would include the erythromycins (including clarithromycin and azithromycin), tetracyclines (including doxycycline), or trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole (TMP-SMX).  Amoxicillin, penicillin, and ciprofloxacin are much less likely to be effective.  Normally IV antibiotics are preferred due to their immediate bioavailability and high blood concentration.  If oral antibiotics are used pre-op, they should be given on an empty stomach with water only, about two hours prior to surgery.

The other large class of potential contaminants is that of intestinal bacteria, especially gram-negative bacteria and anaerobes.  If the source of contamination is external, as an explosion in a cesspool, a person might live without surgery.  If the source is perforation of one’s internal organs, death is likely without emergency surgery. 

But say surgery is an option, or you’ve cut your hand deeply while cleaning out a septic tank – you’ll probably need a combination of antibiotics to avoid or treat infection.  The first should be either ciprofloxacin, Levaquin, or Avelox, whichever is available (ciprofloxacin is the only inexpensive generic in this class).  Second line alternatives for these would be Augmentin or TMP-SMX.  Additionally, metronidazole should be added to cover anaerobic bacteria.  Basically, the same antibiotics useful for diverticulitis or other intra-abdominal infection are indicated for intra-abdominal wounds. 

Lastly, we seldom think of tetanus except to get vaccinated when we’re injured.  If you haven’t been immunized in the last five years, then do so now.  The new TDAP vaccine includes immunization against diphtheria and pertussis as well.  If a wound is deep or contaminated with rust, treating with metronidazole (or penicillin) may decrease the number of tetanus-toxin producing Clostridium tetani bacteria, but these antibiotics do nothing to counter the toxin that has been produced, and which may cause muscle spasms that constrict the airway.  Without immunization, risk of death is very high.   (Doctor Koelker is SurvivalBlog’s Medical Editor. She is also the editor of ArmageddonMedicine.net.)



Economics and Investing:

Thor sent this bit of news on the global food supply: Planet could be ‘unrecognizable’ by 2050, experts say

Luis (At Sea) sent us this link to Seeking Alpha: Case-Shiller: Home Price Declines Continue. Luis notes: “Notice that Washington D.C. had the only positive number, and even that was marginal.”  

Several Items from Kevin S.: A Tipping Point Is Nearing  

Food/Financial Crisis of 2011  

The Collapse of America’s Labor Force  

Items from The Economatrix:

How Much More Demand Can Silver Handle?  

Despite Oversupply, US Gasoline Prices Leap
 

Oil Surges 6% as Libya Tension Intensifies  

Fear Of “Catastrophic” Crash Rising Despite Bull Market 

Libya Unrest Rattles Markets; Oil Prices Jump  

Oil, Gold Jump On Middle East Fears  

Oil Price Shock:  Pandora’s Box is Open  



Odds ‘n Sods:

Pierre M. sent: CDC: Deadly Superbug “C-Diff” Spreading

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Avalanche Lily spotted this: Since D.C.’s handgun ban ended, well-heeled residents have become well armed.

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Patricia F. flagged this: Why Does Texas Have Its Own Power Grid?

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A reader suggested HP LaserJet Tough Paper for printing key references that might be used in the field. It is not paper. Rather, it is a plastic material that can be laser printed. It is waterproof, so it would be ideal for printing specialized maps and pages for field notebooks.

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Mike in Texas mentioned: “If you need soil, fertilizer, or garden amendments, never pay full price. Lowe’s, and many other major retailers, take 50% off for any kind of broken bag. Check frequently because I’m told they accidentally break bags almost daily. I even have my local Lowe’s store call me when they stack some up.”



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"The great virtue of a free market system is that it does not care what color people are; it does not care what their religion is; it only cares whether they can produce something you want to buy. It is the most effective system we have discovered to enable people who hate one another to deal with one another and help one another." – Milton Friedman



Notes from JWR:

A Kindle-version of the SurvivalBlog.com Archives 2005-2010 is now available for $9.99, via the Amazon.com store. It is more than 7,000 pages long and text-to-speech enabled. It also has more than 20,000 links to external web pages from your Kindle reader. (Available only if you are connected to the Internet while reading.) Anyone with a Kindle can download a free 700 page (10%) sample of the archive, for a “test drive”.

Meanwhile, for folks with laptops, we are nearing release of the 2005-2010 archive of SurvivalBlog on CD-ROM (in both HTML and PDF). Both file formats will have links to external sites as well as all of the blog’s static pages. It will sell for $19. It should be orderable at our Cafe Press store within two weeks. (To explain: there was a production glitch in the recent Beta testing that caused a delay.) Thanks for your patience.

I’m scheduled for a one hour interview with call-in questions from listeners tomorrow (Wednesday, February 23, 2010) on EMPact Radio. Please feel free to call if you have any preparedness questions that would be of interest to the majority of listeners. If you miss hearing the show, it will be available as a downloadable podcast.

Today we present another entry for Round 33 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A 250 round case of 12 Gauge Hornady TAP FPD 2-3/4″ OO buckshot ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo (a $240 value), and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 33 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Affordable Preparedness, by Phil in East Tennessee

I enjoy reading SurvivalBlog each morning as I prepare for my day. I have only been a reader of the blog for six months, and enjoy all the varied insights. So I feel compelled to share some of my experiences. Let me start off by saying I was raised in a Christian preparedness household.  Both my parents suffered through the Great Depression as children and my mother was deeply impacted by the possibility of being hungry and cold again. As a teenager in the mid-1970s I remember we had a basement full of Neo-Life brand long term storage food, thousands of pennies in ten pound cans, water, silver, gold, but no guns or ammo that I knew of.  I have been involved with long term provisioning all my life.  When the fuel crisis hit in 1973 my mother was sure it was the beginning of the end of America (she was an avid reader of the “The Ruff Times”). As it looks like we are nearing the end of life as free Americans I’m ashamed to say that I gave my parents a hard time over their “crazy” desire to provide for us “come hell or high water”.  

I have been blessed to have had two great careers, first as a financial planner, and then as a commercial Pilot. In both situations my employers invested large sums in training me. In every instance there are rules to follow. Every six months we fly the simulator and practice every possible type of emergency and hazard with the aircraft. When a problem comes up in real-time, there is never a hesitation. We have trained to respond without pause so we are ready. How can we approach protecting our families any other way than to plan, and practice?
  Growing up I was paying attention to what my folks were doing, and these are the lessons I’m sharing now. Even though things never really broke down the way my parents expected, their planning didn’t go to waste.  The food, barter items, and silver all got used or saved. If nothing else they are great investments that have had excellent returns. Their planning did no harm, financially or strategically to our family in fact we are still benefiting from decisions they made 40 years ago.

[JWR Adds: People who bought gold in 1975–soon after it was first re-legalized in the U.S.–and who have held on to it since, have done very well. Gold was selling for $145 per ounce in October of 1975. When I last checked (February 19, 2011), it was $1,389 per ounce. That is a 1,043% gain. For comparison, if someone had just left their earnings in cash (so-called “mattress money”) in 1975, it would have lost about 75% of its purchasing power by 2011. ($145 worth of groceries in 1975 would cost $593 in 2011.) Granted, stocks on average listed in the DJIA have seen a gain of 850% since 1975. (But of course you could have picked a bad stock like Pan Am Airways–now worth zero, or a more consistent blue chip stock like GE.) But the beauty of gold is that it provides both a long term hedge on inflation and insurance against a full-scale currency collapse, which we may soon experience. When that happens, nearly all U.S. dollar-denominated investments will suffer tremendously.]

 So you want be prepared? My mother would say get your financial house in order.
 Myrtle’s Rules:

  1. If you do have to borrow, get the shortest term possible. The Highest payment you can afford, will force you to buy fewer things that you don’t need. Get you out of debt quicker with less interest = lowest total cost. This forces you to live by a budget and to waste less on impulse purchases.

Example: When we bought our present home in 1991 we took out a five-year mortgage. The payments were almost out of reach and we barely qualified for the loan. We did little for the next 60 months but make sure the bank was paid on time. It was tough. My young children did not think it was cool that we drove 5 and 7 year old cars (that were paid for) and had no television.  We paid off the house in 1996 right on time and then transferred the title to a “Family Trust” to remove it from our personal estates and ownership. It’s hard to imagine a situation where the house could be taken from us, other than non payment of property taxes.   By the way we paid less than $12,000 in interest to the bank!

  1. Don’t worry about saving until you are out debt.  This is a big issue. Get your home (retreat) and cars paid off; otherwise you are just renting them from the lender. Once your house is really yours the freedom it creates is unbelievable! I know about all the tax advantages from mortgage interest, and savings in your 401k with employer matching. In eight years most people can be debt free. Then you will have ability to save and invest most of your earnings. It’s amazing how fast you can create wealth when your partner isn’t the bank.
  2. Stay married: this is a big factor that defeats many of the people I counsel. I observe countless examples of unhappy dissatisfied people blaming their spouse for all the problems.  I’m not a marriage counselor but I sure get tired of hearing it’s the other guys fault. Grow up. If you are looking for someone else to make things right in your world you will end up broke and alone. Be a team; involve your partner in your plans and prayers. You want to prosper during the coming times? Plan together…you can’t do it alone.
  3. Buy Silver: Metals are the future and paper is paper. A gold coin that may be worth $5,000 USD in the future is not a good medium of exchange.  Silver dollars and silver rounds are about $30 each right now and will be very practical for commerce down the road.
  4. Plan for the worst, Hope for the best. Yes, I have a few guns, and plenty of ammo and the best offense is a killer defense (no pun intended) but I pray that we will never have to take a human life. I know this sounds naive but as a family we want to minister to the needy, it will be much tougher after we’ve put a few holes in them.
  5. Be generous with your time: giving of yourself is not the same as writing a check. Our tithes and offerings are a command, but true giving as a form of worship that means giving of your physical self. If you need further explanation: read a chapter of Proverbs every day, it is a wealth of practical knowledge and wisdom.               (31 chapters/ 31 days: coincidence…. I think not)
  6. Learn a new skill: One new hands on, sore back, stiff knees dirty nails skill every year, when you know enough to teach it to another you’ve got it. NOTE: we will need many more diesel and small engine mechanics down the road. We have raised a whole generation that can’t find the dipstick.
  7. Partnerships don’t work: A week seldom goes by that someone doesn’t ask me to underwrite, finance, partner with, or otherwise join in some grand scheme. My wife and I made a deal when we got married …. No partners. I am married to my partner, Period. No others allowed. Think about the difficulties of communication in your marriage. My wife and I have a great marriage and we still after all these years still have miss communication. We have the same goals, ideals, morals and yet there are still days we fail to connect. Throw another family in the mix… their needs, problems, differing belief system and you can see why 98% of all business partnerships fail within two years.

Not enough for two. Partnerships evolve because someone has some cash and the other party has the skill, idea, or product. So from day one there is a disparity in expectations for the parties involved. The investor wants a Return on Investment (ROI) and the inventor/worker/labor wants a paycheck.  A new business that is run very well with a skilled bookkeeping normally won’t turn a profit for two years, so you just multiply the problem with two families trying to eat out of the same trough. In the great book by Michael Gerber “The E Myth” he describes that the desire of owning your own business as follows:
10% dream (idea) everyone has an idea it’s the entrepreneur in us.
10% technician (i.e. the product, service or goods) we all want to work for ourselves.
 80% management. No one wants to do this Job!
We have learned the hard way it’s difficult to wear all the hats that make a small business prosper. Early on I was forced to become a manager, I still don’t like it but I have come to embrace it as the most important part of every business venture.

Good enough to do alone. Most partnerships start because you are unwilling to take the plunge alone; you want to dilute the downside risk. I say if it’s a great project and you’re confident of its chances then raise the money and do it with the partner your married too. Following this rule has saved us many broken relationships, including our own.
What is your exit strategy? People are always amazed when I ask this question. Most reply, “I’m just getting started, how would I know?” If you are going to start something you need to have a plan how to end it. When we start a business we always have a plan to get out, a huge success or a big bust, we still have time limits as well as financial benchmarks to tell us where we are and when to move on, sell, or liquidated.

TIP: Service businesses that don’t have a physical location (brick & mortar) are very difficult to sell. Think in terms of resale value.
Over the last 30 years we have started (or bought) and sold more than 15 businesses. Most were great success (11). A few were bombs (3). One was just more trouble than it was worth. While doing all this we had other income and I had an employer that provided our healthcare coverage. No small thing, not needing to pull income to meet living expenses from a new enterprise. This gave us the time to correct our mistakes and get the right employees trained and in place. I would encourage each family to start and operate a small home business making something. It will teach your children basic business skills, the value of their time to make (Money) while you sleep.

Note: Parents as the Boss and children as “paid help” works best.

I realize this article is merely Business 101 for most readers, and you may question whether it has a place on SurvivalBlog. The feedback I get from many people is that they know they should get better prepared but they just can’t afford to. I have seen a few partnerships prosper and survive long term, but they are few and far between.  Partner with your family, create some prosperity together, you will be richer for it.

The first step in preparedness is your heart and relationship to the Savior, the next is your finances.

To lead in times of trouble, be gracious in times of peace. I say you can’t afford not to.



Letter Re: Funding Your Preparations with the Underground Economy

For many people funding your survival cache/ preparedness stockpile has to come out of your budget. Whether you work for someone every day, draw a pension check or work for yourself you have to find a way to fit your projects into the limits of your paycheck. And with Uncle Sam taking a larger share at every turn it seems to be getting harder to find those extra nickels to put to use. Once most of us pay a house and car payment and then monthly utilities and food there is hardly enough left to worry about buying ammo, additional firearms, food stores or gear unless we put it on credit or save up for our purchases.   Over the last few years though I have found there is another way to supplement not only your income but to build your survival stores easier and less expensively: The Underground Economy, whether you have heard of the idea, see it every day and don’t try to use it, or take full advantage of it, it is available. There are many ways to make a few extra dollars to put to use to help out your dwindling bottom line.  

Let’s look at a few of the ways to make extra money in a pinch:          

Mowing your neighbor’s lawns. Yeah this one could be suited to your teenage son looking to make a few summer dollars or it could put a couple of new rifles in your cabinet over the course of the summer. In almost every neighborhood you look at you see more than a few homes with the grass standing a little taller than those around them, or one with pretty bad “weedeating” done around the edges and those are all possible side jobs where you could earn from $25-50 for a few minutes of work depending on the area and the size of the yard. And all you use is your mower (some people will even let you use theirs!!) some gas and a little sweat. Almost everyone that pays you will pay you in cash.        

Craigslist. There are multiple ways to make money on Craigslist.org. It is virtually like eBay just with no bidding and no fees to pay for selling your item. And if you don’t have an item to sell you can cruise through the free stuff and you might get lucky and find people giving away: old cars, scrap metal, aluminum, firewood, furniture,and more. These are all free for the taking and you can turn around and cash in at the recycler or the junkyard. Or you could sell or stock up the firewood, or sometimes take the other stuff out to the local swap-meet and make a few bucks with it.         

Flea Market: Most locales have a flea market or a swap meet in which you can get an outside spot on the weekends for fairly cheap and set up a table full of stuff that you can sell or in some cases trade for something else that you need. My local flea market charges $8 a day for a spot outside and there are not too many restrictions on what I can sell, being in Kentucky even person to person firearms sales are okay so long as you are not trying to be a full time dealer and selling multiples at a time. (Disclaimer: I deal only in Kentucky and I do not know about elsewhere. Check with your state and local laws for restrictions as to what you can and can’t sell.) Some people set up at the flea market as a business getting a Tax ID so they can purchase bulk items to take there.     

Fairs, Festivals, Bazaars: Now some of these can be tricky to set up at because some of them require you to have a sales tax ID and some do not. If you have a sellable item that you wish to set up with you can make a ton of money, I have witnessed a friend sell out of 500 cases of sunglasses over a 3 day festival which is far better than he does on a weekend basis at the flea market, but he has to keep track of all sales since he buys the glasses in bulk with a tax ID. One of my mother’s friends has set up at craft faires over the years and makes very good money with homemade cards, handcrafted wares and other little items that she or her husband makes.         

Classified Ads: Many areas have some sort of classified ads, some may cost money to sell your things in but many have free sections and with the advent of the internet there are many classified sites popping up online that will let you sell your old stuff off for free. One of them I use is www.kyclassifieds.com. Just like with the flea markets since this is Kentucky, firearms are bought and sold off of this web site on a person to person in-state basis and it can be a good way to find firearms and ammunition less expensively than going to a gun shop or a big box store. Last year I picked up three SKS rifles for less than $200 each from there.     

Forums: With a little digging around on Google or one of the search engines you can find forums of like minded people who will sell, trade and barter with you for items you need or they need allowing you to build up your cache or trade off extras to garner something you need more.         

Yard sales: take a Friday and Saturday in good weather and make a few extra bucks sitting in your own yard. Or you could get a spot in the Corridor 127 Yard Sale which is over 600 miles long. They are also a good way of finding things to take to the Flea Market to turn a profit with. I picked up five boxes of rifle cartridges last year for $2 a box. They were in a caliber that I don’t use but I figured I could make a little profit. After checking online to see what they were I managed to sell them for $12 a box at the flea market. Check with your local authorities first though, my town requires a permit to set up a yard sale and we are only allowed four per year.         

Gun and Knife shows: Every couple of months gun and knife shows pop up around the area and much like a flea market you can get a booth for a price and you can set up and sell off your “collection”, buy new pieces, or trade for things you want. For some of these you must have a dealer license, some you do not. Again, consult your state and local laws. One option is to just walk around many of these shows as a trader. I notice many people who do not want to pay to set up will walk around with a rifle over their shoulder, or a knife booklet in their hand and they will “wheel and deal” without spending any set up money for a table. This works very well in some markets.  

These are just a few of the ways I have found to bring in a little additional income to help out with the stretched budget. You can also consider these as skills to practice now for use in a post SHTF or TEOTWAWKI world in which bartering or trading will be the way to garner the things that you need when a currency has not yet been re-established. You can also make some very valuable connections with like minded individuals when you learn the ins and outs of some of these methods, I have made some very good friends setting up with people over a summer at the flea market each weekend, and while you might think that people out there selling would hold information or not be friendly to their competition I have found quite the opposite to be true as I have found many people willing to help me learn how to sell more or sell better.  

All in all, the Underground Economy is a very viable way to supplement your income and to earn the extra money to spend on your projects. In the three years that I have really started trying to prepare I would not have been at all able to put five guns in my cabinet or 3,000 rounds of ammunition on my shelf without finding an alternate source of funds to assist me outside of the household budget.

The best part of learning these methods, is that they are all cash based and in many cases you can find gold, silver, coins, ammo, guns and survival gear far less expensively than you could purchase them in a store, a market exchange, online or from one of the mass market retailers.

JWR Adds: Of course keep all of your sales and purchases legal, and keep track of the requisite taxes.



Letter Re: List of Countries by Real Population Density

James,

I have been playing with the numbers based on the population figures and wanted to give you this update.

I did a study of the total land under cultivation in 2002 (rather than just the potentially arable land, and not including grazing land).  42 of the 50 states exceed the figure of 245 people per square kilometer.

[JWR Adds: States with less than 600 people per square kilometer of active-worked farm land might pull through a societal collapse, with plenty of sweat and by God’s grace. But anyone who is planning to survive whilst living in a state with a higher population density is probably in trouble. You must prepare to be very well-armed and deeply provisioned in order to hunker down in total isolation through two winters, sheltering through a major population die-off. Dr. Hugh’s table (below) clearly illustrates the over-population of the eastern states and California that I’ve warned about for many years. ]

State

Population

(2002)

Sq. KMs
of Farmland

(2002)

Pop. per Sq. KM
of Farmland
WY 498,703 13,366 37
MT 909,453 21,903 42
ND 634,110 15,220 42
SD 761,063 16,997 45
NE 1,729,180 17,924 96
NM 1,855,059 16,997 109
KS 2,715,884 18,311 148
IA 2,936,760 12,593 233
OK 3,493,714 13,134 266
ID 1,341,131 4,597 292
CO 4,506,542 12,091 373
TX 21,779,893 50,606 430
MN 5,019,720 10,971 458
AR 2,710,079 5,640 481
MO 5,672,579 11,512 493
UT 2,316,256 4,481 517
OR 3,521,515 6,644 530
AZ 5,456,453 10,237 533
MS 2,871,782 4,249 676
KY 4,092,891 5,254 779
NV 2,173,491 2,627 827
WI 5,441,196 6,142 886
WA 6,068,996 6,065 1,001
IN 6,159,058 5,949 1,035
IL 12,600,620 10,701 1,178
VT 616,592 518 1,191
TN 5,797,289 4,520 1,283
WV 1,801,873 1,391 1,296
AL 4,486,508 3,438 1,305
LA 4,482,646 3,110 1,441
AK 643,786 355 1,811
OH 11,421,267 5,679 2,011
GA 8,560,310 4,249 2,015
VA 7,293,542 3,361 2,170
SC 4,107,183 1,854 2,215
HI 1,244,898 556 2,238
NC 8,320,146 3,515 2,367
MI 10,050,446 4,018 2,502
ME 1,294,464 487 2,659
CA 35,116,033 10,701 3,282
DE 807,385 216 3,732
PA 12,335,091 2,975 4,147
FL 16,713,149 3,940 4,242
NY 19,157,532 2,936 6,525
MD 5,458,137 811 6,728
NH 1,275,056 158 8,050
CT 3,460,503 139 24,883
MA 6,427,801 216 29,713
RI 1,069,725 23 46,509

Yes, the preceding is based on land in current farm production and the cited “245 people per square kilometer” is a worst case average. As was pointed out in some of the follow-up letters, if you have an area with higher yields per acre, such as rice producing regions, this figure can increase, but it should give us an idea of how bad the dislocations are going to be once the naturally produced fertilizer hits the solar powered air mover.

Important Note: I took out grazing lands, CRP lands, etc. and only had square kilometers of land under actual cultivation.  This is based on a USDA estimate since exact figures are not kept except on a county by county level.  This is why the “final” number is square kilometers is much less than it would appear to be on the surface. 

I know that here in Colorado for example a piece of land I am looking at — 160 acres — only has 10 acres under active cultivation.  The rest of the section is either open range grazing land or CRP land.

I then applied some math [on demographics] to the chart…

[JWR Notes: Some detail deleted, for brevity]

I ruled out the original colonies and adjacent areas.  (Those have the figures shaded light red.) I ruled out the states west of the Mississippi River but with population densities that are far too high for sustainable agriculture. (Those are shaded dark red.)

I evaluated the states west of the Mississippi that are adjacent to “basket case” states with high population densities, and shaded them yellow.

This leaves us with a list of  only 11 states (shaded in green) that would make a good retreat/relocation area, so long as you choose wisely within the state itself.

[JWR Adds: For example, Dr. Hugh rates Wyoming high on his list, but if limit your criteria to only areas that are in the milder climate zone west of the Great Divide, then that leaves only parts of the western third of Wyoming. Similarly, he rates Montana highly, but if limit your criteria to only areas upwind of nuclear targets and that are in the milder climate zone west of the Great Divide, then that leaves only northwest corner of Montana. He also discounts Oregon and Washington, but the eastern halves of both of those states are very lightly populated.]

The new [short] list is then:

State

Population

(2002)

Sq. KMs
of Farmland

(2002)

Pop. per Sq. KM
of Farmland

Rawles

Rank

Dr. Hugh

Weighted

Rank

MT 909,453 21,903 42 2 1
WY 498,703 13,366 37 5 2
ID 1,341,131 4,597 292 1 3
SD 761,063 16,997 45 7 4
ND 634,110 15,220 42 8 5
NE 1,729,180 17,924 96 11 6
NM 1,855,059 16,977 109 15 7
KS 2,715,884 18,311 148 12 8
CO 4,506,542 12,091 373 10 9
OK 3,493,714 13,134 266 17 10
TX 21,779,893 50,606 430 13 11

Since I currently live in Colorado I plan to relocate sooner than later outside of the state if I can not find a suitable location within the state.  – Dr. Hugh



Letter Re: Investing in Nickels, in Quantity

Dear Mr. Rawles,
Regarding people eventually mailing U.S. nickel [5 cent coins] in bulk, you had asked: “Is there a box manufacturer that makes a sturdy corrugated cardboard box that fits tightly into a Medium size Priority Mail Flat Rate corrugated cardboard box?” At ULINE you can get a box to fit nicely inside the corrugated Medium Flat Rate Box (“FRB1″, with dimensions 11″ x 8-1/2″ x 5-1/2”). It is item #S-4517. It measures 10″x8″x5″. These boxes cost 54 cents each in lots of 25. (OBTW, leave it to the government to make two “medium” flat rate boxes. The longer, narrow one, “FRB2”, is made of thinner material.) 

I buy my shipping material from ULINE and find them to be prompt and accurate in filling orders. A human always answers the phone. Their order line is: 1-800-295-5510.

Of interest to preppers, ULINE also sells sand bags, plastic bags, burlap bags for storing green coffee beans, all sorts of storage containers, and rolls of “Faraday Cage” static shielding material. Take Care, – Bill at BallisticClipboard.com

JWR Replies: Thanks for that useful information. OBTW, I recently added that, as well as some information on fitting rolls of nickels into .30 caliber ammo cans in the latest edition of my static page on Nickels.