“A caged canary is secure; but it is not free. It is easier for free men to resist terrorism from afar than tyranny from within.” – Pastor Chuck Baldwin
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another two entries for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 38 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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The TEOTWAWKI Tool Guy, by K.D.C.
I have been prepping for over two decades now, although some would say I have been prepping my whole life. Both sets of grandparents instilled into my parents the need to be prepared, and in turn they did the same for my siblings and me. I am the only one of my siblings who has taken it to this high a point, even though they are probably more prepared for a major event then 99% of the rest of America. My definition of prepping is, I think, a little different than most. I define my families prepping as being prepared for anything, not just TEOTWAWKI. What I mean is if we had a hurricane, tornado, a major illness causing loss of income, or whatever the world has to throw at us, we are ready for it. Now I know you can be ready for everything, but you can be prepared to handle the aftermath!
Both of my grandfathers were true craftsman. My maternal grandfather lied about his age to get into the U.S. Navy at age 16 during World War II; he was a mechanic on the USS Texas, after the war he stayed in the same field working on large diesels for the railroad then for Ryder Trucks. My patriarchal grandfather worked for the railroad from the age of 17 until he retired as a carpenter. He had a back injury from a car accident as a child that caused him to be hump backed, disqualifying him from the war; however he was an avid hunter, fishermen, and a phenomenal carpenter. My father is a structural engineer, self-employed, and a Vietnam Vet. I grew up around all of these strong Christian men to grow up around, spending alternating summers in the hills of North Carolina and the woods of East Texas staying on the gulf-coast of Texas during school.
The women in my life were also very influential I remember my grandmothers praying over me when I was sick before ever calling a doctor or getting me a Tylenol for a fever. They also taught me to “put up” food, when I was younger I loved being in the kitchen with them after taking in a bushel of something from the gardens. They would put a side what would last without spoiling and start whatever process was need to store the rest. They always taught me, “Whether for us or others God has a plan for this food.” I learned to make homemade biscuits and other breads, how to grow spices and dry them, and most of all how to make what you had last. It still amazes me to think back at the huge family meals we had, all from their cupboards.
It has been my family’s goal to never have the worry of need. If the worst where to happen we would not need to go to a store or barter for close to three years at this point. And then includes my family of 5, our parents 4, and our siblings their spouses and children 10. We do have some long term freeze dried food, but at least half of what we have is canned or prepared by my family.
Now in our version of prepping we are not talking about just food, we all know the “Bs” I would say three but there have been so many added to the original trinity of prepping “Bs” that I cannot even remember them all. We have enough medical supplies to stock a nice hospital emergency room, enough arms and ammo to keep all of our family from being liberated of our items, and we are currently building our retreat including a completely off grid setup.
In everything we store, stock, or purchases for our lives we try to find things that can be truly multi-purpose and last for a long time; for example we stock large quantities of grain alcohol as it can help clean for medical reasons, help start fires, and help warm the soul if need be.
Now to the point of this whole thing, I have read Survival Blog for years now, and have seen small articles or quick mentions of tools here and there, and I wanted to go into a little more detail and thought into prepping your tool shed.
First and foremost, buy quality! Yes you can go pick up four screwdriver sets a Wally World for what one quality set cost you at Sears, but truth be told most of us would not pick up four sets, and when you are on a roof, under the car, or even under fire and your tool breaks, it doesn’t matter you could have picked up four sets. All that matters then is you have a broken cheap tool.
Don’t judge quality by a life time warranty. There are a lot of tools out there that come with a “life time” warranty, but most of those do cover our stupidity of using a screwdriver as a chisel, and most of those require you mail the broken product off and wait 90 plus days for them ship you a replacement. We all know the Craftsman hand tool warranty, bring in the broken tool and they will give you a replacement. I do have to warn you though there are some poorly made Craftsman tools out there, so be sure you handle the tool and check it out. I have even been known to do some research online to check out the reviews before purchasing.
If it is important, get more than one. Like I said earlier if you are on the roof and your hammer breaks, it would really bite to have to go to the store, if you can, to get another one. Even though modern tools are more durable than they use to be, they can still break. Put enough force on those modern fiberglass handles and they will break. I broke a shovel handle, by having a cinder block fall two stories on to it. The falling cinder block is a whole other story, but the point is the shovel handle broke. I have multiple shovels, hammer, screw driver sets, chisels, wrenches, pliers, etc. I even have extra handles for my tools, and some quality lumber stored that I could turn into a handle if need be.
Figure out what you are going to do when the power is out. When buying power tools be sure you don’t have to fully rely on plugging them in. First with hand power tools, if you are without power you are pretty much out of luck. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have them, it just means you should be ready to be without them. Be sure you have a couple of different handsaws, hand drills, hand planes, pretty much any powered hand tool you get be sure you have a backup. I was lucky to inherit both of my grandfather’s tools; it was amazing to find tools from my great-great grandfathers tools mixed into these that still worked and sometimes did a better job than any new tool. As for battery powered tools, these can be a good alternative, but not the only backup. You could setup a fueled or solar generator to power the tools or charge the batteries when need be, but the system could break down, so don’t have these as your only backup. Be sure you have plenty of extra batteries and extra cells. By cells I mean inside of each battery pack there is a group of smaller cells, which most look like C-Cell batteries, but note they are not. Do a little work on Google and you will find the replacement cells for your battery pack. When one of the batteries fail it usually only a single cell or two inside the pack that have actually failed; it is a simple thing to replace one of the cells if you know how to check them and solider in the new one. When it comes to power tools, both plug in and battery powered try to stay in the same brand. Sometimes there are parts that could be interchangeable if one breaks down, and if you stay with the same battery types it will save you a lot of headaches of dealing with multiple chargers and batteries. It is so nice to only worry about one battery. Finally stand tools. There is nothing nicer than having a good table saw, band saw, chop saw, and drill press, but what are you going to do when the power is out? During my summers in North Carolina, there was an old water powered mill. It was the most fascinating thing to see all these pulleys and belts humming all over the place. This has always been in my head when buying stand tools. Be sure the system is a pulley and belt and not a direct drive type; if need you can convert the power source from the electric motor to some alternative input. I have done a little experiment with a windmill and my table saw. After figuring out the gearing and going a little slower that I am use to, I was cutting ¾ inch plywood smooth and clean. Buy extra brushes, cords, and any other serviceable parts for all of your power tools. As with in other prepping put some thought into, so you can get the life you need out of.
Figure out what else you can do with it. Multi-purpose should always be thought about. One of the best examples I could ever give is back to my shovel. We were about to dry our clothes, when we found a wind storm had broken one of our clothes line poles the night before. For a quick fix, since we had wet clothes. I stuck the shovel in the ground and tied the clothes line off to it. Don’t ever look at anything as a single purpose item; of course this doesn’t mean miss use a tool, like a gun butt does not make a good hammer, but always be aware of your tools how they work, and what else you can do with them. Clamps have a 101+ uses, maybe this will be my next letter, screw drivers in a pinch can be used a wedge, pliers can go from the garden to the car to your mouth if need be. A drill can power things from a coffee grinder to an ice cream maker, or a meat grinder to a water pump, I have even powered a chicken plucker with a hammer drill before. There are even now power tools that have interchangeable heads. The one I purchased has a drill, jig saw, electric hammer, socket driver, sanding pads, and cut-off blade; there was also a battery powered version that used the same batteries as my other tools. So with two tools I have 6 tools both plug-in and battery powered so really 12 different tools.
If you can’t find your tools you might as well not have. You shouldn’t be without is a good toolbox. Now I am not talking about a little portable hand tool box, which you should have a few of as well, I am talking about a large multi-drawer/cabinet toolbox. Have a nice place to put your tools. Be sure to keep some desiccant in the drawer to try and keep moister down. I know the cost of these can be high, but a good quality nice looking toolbox, make you proud of your tools, and in turn helps you want to keep them organized, clean and put away.
Take care of them and keep them clean. I remember my grandfather taking is air-tools apart cleaning, greasing, and oiling them. I also remember him wiping down and oiling his hammer, screw drivers, wrenches. I know some of our tools today are made of products that will not rust, but most just have some coating or covering on them and when scratched can start to rust. A simple wipe down with oil will help the metal will last for a lot longer. Furthermore if you are storing some tools stock, just like your guns, keep them oiled, when you go to use them it could be the difference in a quality tool and a wrench so rusted to slips around the nut. In the tools I inherited from my grandfather there where some of the first Craftsman power tools, the old chrome ones, which still worked! There were hand tools with their original boxes that if the cardboard wasn’t yellowed you would have had no idea they were well used. A good tool taken care of will last several life times.
Don’t forget the big guys. Now let’s talk about a few big items I don’t think we should be without. One of the most important big tools, in my humble opinion, is a diesel welder/generator. This item covers so many bases I think there are too many list, but luckily I also think it is self-explanatory. Now the welder/generator should not be your primary generator, but a backup one that can also weld. Next would be a compressor. A single compressor can power a huge amount of air tools, as well as just having the high pressure air to clean, feel tires, and more. With the compressor be sure to have extra hoses and fittings. I also love the Shop-Smith multi-tool; however I do not own one. I have recently used a newer one and was very pleased with its performance, my only two complaints were one it was a little cumbersome to switch between tools and two if it breaks down all your tools are out of commission. For the amount of room it took up compared to the tools it replaced I think it might soon be an addition to my shop. As for the compressor and Shop-Smith they both can be powered by alternative power from wind and water, to solar or fueled generator, so be sure you have a backup to power them.
Know your tool, know your environment. Make sure you have the proper place to use your tools. A lot of tools create a lot of dust or fumes, be sure you have a well ventilate place to use your tools. Be sure you have a secure safe place to use your tools. And most important be sure you know how to properly use your tools. I have watched so many “reality” shows that by the end I am amazed the people are still alive. Read the manuals, know when and what to oil, how to sharpen, how to change accessories, what and how to wax, and most important simply how to use it.
In my opinion all of what I have said is just common since, but sometimes you just have to hear it or see it, for to sink in. Being prepared for anything includes being able to fix a squeaky door, level a floor, or performing a head job on your truck. Whatever it is you will need the right tools and in working order. Put some thought into and the end game will be just that much easier.
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Survival Fishing 101, by Captain T.
Many of us have, within our Bug Out Bag some kind of basic survival fishing rig (like those sold at Ready Made Resources or Camping Survival) be it a simple hook, line, and sinker tucked away in a plastic case, in the handle of a survival knife, a pill bottle, plastic pack or metal tin, or a slightly more elaborate setup that might include a small fishing reel and telescopic rod or a small Yo-Yo fishing reel. Regardless of what rig you possess at the time TSHTF, it is important to have some general knowledge and ability in order to accomplish the desired outcome while fishing—and that is catching fish. Let’s face it, those of us that have never fished for anything with the exception of the remote control between the cushions of the sofa, could benefit from some tips to increase our chances, especially if it means the difference between a much needed meal or going hungry for yet another day.
Introduction
For the sake of brevity, the focus of this discussion is going to be on the simplest of fishing transactions. There are an overwhelming variety of fishing styles (sport, spear, bow, nets, etc.), methods (bottom, top water, drift), types of equipment, locations, environments, etc. that can be included in the discussion, but the scope of this writing will be limited to freshwater, a simple fishing setup such as what is found in a typical off-the-shelf or homemade survival kit and what is typically available in terms of the live bait. The goal will be to increase the basic familiarity of it to the prepper or the persons in a G.O.O.D. situation that has little to no knowledge about the act of fishing and may be forced to act in that capacity to generate sustenance to survive.
Contrary to what you may think, successfully fishing to the desired outcome is not necessarily easy and likely one of the more difficult foods to get from the water, but it’s certainly not impossible. There are many considerations and factors that go into a successful fishing event and some of them include, fishing equipment being used (rod and reel, net, archery, spear, trapping, etc.), weather conditions (heavy rain, full sun, snow), body of water being fished (stream, pond, lake, river), bait available, time of day (dawn, noon, dusk), and season (spring, winter, summer), clarity and depth of water, temperature of the air and water, and the amount of cover in and around the water just to name a few. Many of the negative factors, some more than others, can be overcome with experience and knowledge. The argument can be made, that for the time and energy invested, fishing is not the best plan to procure a meal (I’ve gone home on more than one occasion with an empty stringer)–but given a particular situation it just may be your best opportunity at that moment.
Equipment
The typical survival fishing setup provides the bare essentials to fish– a hook, line and possibly sinkers—and doesn’t involve legalities such as licenses and other regulations. If you are going to practice your skills please make sure you comply with all federal/state/local laws—or get the permission of the land owner if you are going to practice on a private pond or lake. The line and sinkers are designed to get the bait and hook down to where the fish are at. It is important that you inspect your fishing line and the knot at the hook. Don’t wait until you need it to find out that the heat has weakened or frayed your line to the point that a slight pull would result in it snapping—that is the last thing you want to happen when your next meal is on the other end. Monofilament lines (common type of fishing line typically used in survival fishing kits) will breakdown over time and that effect is accelerated with the addition of heat. It may be worth your while to invest is a small spool of high quality 8-10 pound test braided fishing line available at any sporting goods store or section in one of the big box stores. This braided, or multifilament line has greater strength and durability when compared to monofilament, but it is more expensive and not without its unique issues. If you can’t keep the entire spool in your BOB, create a mini spool using a small piece of cardboard and wrap as much as you can (space permitting) around it. Consider (safely) including a couple of larger sewing needles in with your fishing line—this can help stitch tears, mend other items during the course of your travels , and provide you many other uses should the need arise.
Your knot on the end of the fishing line is just as important as anything else. If this is the weak link then you can say good bye to a hook and your dinner. It is essential to know how to tie a good knot and one or more that meet the needs of your applications. Animatedknots.com , Realknots.com or Netknots.com are just a few good sources of animated/pictures of knot tying examples. Additionally, there are several resources (such as knot cards) concerning knot tying for your BOB available at Camping Survival. Knowledge of knots in a practical or an outdoor survival situation can’t be overstated. Some of the considerations, other than fishing requiring knowledge of knots include: lashing/securing/binding items together, climbing, creating a loop, splicing ropes, tying bandages, are just a few.
It may also be in your best interest to invest is some additional hooks. They are light and don’t take up a bunch of space and it is almost assured you will lose some in the course of fishing. There are a wide variety of hooks for different purposes. In this case we want to stick with bait hooks. These type hooks are designed with small barbs on the shank of the hook to help hold the bait in place. From my personal experience the size of the fish I wish to catch and the bait I’m using determines the size of the hook. In my kit I carry #12 to #8 sized hooks because my primary target will be the pan fish family, a plentiful and easy to catch fish such has bluegills, sunfish, and crappies. A smaller hook is a good compromise because not only can you catch small fish, but also larger fish. The reverse is not always the case. My goal is to obtain as much food as I need, as fast as I can, with as little effort as possible. This family of fishes has very rarely let me down over the course of 30 years of fishing. Now if I catch a good sized Trout I will certainly be better off in terms of the amount of total protein, but I am relatively sure I can catch more bluegills in the same amount of time (if at all) than it would take me to catch a 4-5 pound trout or bass with a survival rig.
Fishing with a bare line is not impossible but adding that line to a moderately thick green branch can: aid you in getting that hook and bait closer to your next meal, allow you to hold that bait over the target longer, give you access to additional areas that require additional reach (working around a muddy river bank keeping you from slipping in, working in and around cover, placing the bait into a quite pool, etc.). Select a limb that will withstand a significant amount of pull from the top one-third of it without snapping, rigid is good but you want the limb to flex some (absorb moderate pull) without snapping. Keeping your line far enough from the tip of the stick, using a pocket knife or something similar, bevel in a smooth notch into the wood all the way around the stick (must be very smooth to ensure the line does not get accidentally frayed or cut by a rough spot on the wood). Make sure you don’t go in too deep into the wood and unintentionally make it too weak in that area. If the limb is thick enough, it should easily withstand a 1-5 pound fish–but take the extra precautions and test it. This beveling will keep your line from sliding off the end of your makeshift “pole” (if you have one, you can also use an eye screw attached to your pole as a fastening point too). Tie a sufficient length of fishing line for the depth and distance you will be fishing (using a hitch knot or something similar) around the notched area. Make sure that it is tight enough that it will not fall off or be pulled off when a fish is hooked. Add your fish hook on the other end of the line and sinkers if you have them (these help get your bait down to the level where the fish are). Here again, use a good knot, as it would be a bad thing to lose both your meal and a hook at the same time. Not that you have too, but if you want to add a home-made bobber, try this. Simply find a twig, ¼ inch or slightly thicker, about 1-3 inches long and trim all the bark off of it (contrasting color in the water). Then bevel evenly around the circumference of the stick, like you did with your fishing pole, but more toward one end, not exactly in the middle. Determine the level you want your bait to be at, based on how high the bobber will be on your line—high is deeper, lower is shallow. Once that is known, you can attach the bobber to your main line. Take the main line, place it against the bobber. Using a small length of extra line (or small wire, rubber band, etc.), simply wrap it tightly a few times around bobber and main line forcing it into the beveled area (toward the bottom) of the bobber and tie off with a tight knot. A rubber band would make this process even easier and allow you to quickly adjust the depth if needed plus they are helpful for other things as well. With a little ingenuity you can make a bobber with just about anything that floats. This is just one variation of a home-made/survival fishing pole set-up. There are many interesting creations out in YouTube to give you some idea on how to create your own. Find one you like, build it, experiment, try it out and share it with others if it works.
Bait
The next component to a successful survival fishing undertaking is bait. Here again, the focus will be on the natural side of things or what might be available in and around the body of fresh water where you would be fishing. Yes, you can fish successfully with artificial lures, flies, and plastic imitation baits but that will likely not be in your standard kit unless you supplemented it with those items (and if you did that, then you are likely proficient in this skill and will find this article to rudimentary for your purposes). When searching for bait, look into and around the water for sources of food that the fish consume. If you see tadpoles in the water, mussels, or crawfish, that would be a good bait to use. You might see grasshoppers or other insects floating in the water or around the shore—if they can fit on your hook those would also be great bait items. A general rule of thumb: big bait, big fish, small bait, small fish. Some suggestions for bait include: tad poles, small frogs and toads, fish eggs, grubs, beetles, millipedes, crickets, worms, crayfish, larva, freshwater crabs, minnows, fish fry (young fish), caterpillars, fresh water shrimp, mussels, etc. Look in or under rotten logs or stones, high grass (for hoppers), around the shore line, under rocks in streams, or under plies of leaves–but always use caution. Take some time to explore the area and don’t be afraid to try different baits out. Sometime fish can be as finicky as people in what they choose to eat. Also—word of advice: if you are not sure what it is, don’t take a chance on getting bit or stung—you can’t afford that in a survival situation! Move on to something safer and surer. Always keep your situational awareness in active mode.
Setting the hook, especially in sport fishing, is a very import part of the “catch”. Since this discussion involves a survival situation the focus is on catching food not sport. For the most part, when fishing with live bait, many fish will quickly ingest the bait since it is real and something they recognize and regularly feed on. In a situation such as this, the fish will likely swallow the bait and hook itself—what is often called a gut hook. This significantly increases the mortality in a sport/catch and release situation (hook removal). In a normal situation you will want to avoid this and can do so with a quick hook set. There may even be legal requirements in your area on how to handle a “gut hooked” fish—so be aware. However, in a survival situation hook setting is another important step in securing food. Once you feel the weight of the fish (tug), simply snap the rod (or line) in an upward motion and to the left or right. If the hook sets, you will feel the fish fighting (pulling) on the other end. The goal is now how quickly you can get that fish safely out of the water. Remember different fish species have different biting patterns, some are aggressive and some light biters. Here again, practice and learn from your experiences.
After you catch your first fish, you can cut open the abdomen, and remove the intestines and other organs. Cut open the stomach and examine the contents and that will tell you about the fish’s diet. Examples of this can be seen at the Hi-lakers web site. These parts of the fish can also be successfully used as bait as well. When using “live” bait the goal is to keep it that way. Hook the bait in such a way that it appears natural (hook hidden) and that it will stay alive as long as possible. For example, if you are using a minnow as bait, you want it to be able to swim around; therefore you hook it thru the tail, or the lips, or under the spine (from the top of the fish). No, it won’t be hidden but it will stay alive longer. If you bring the hook too close to the spine, you will kill the fish or at a minimum paralyze it. The same can be said of frogs, crayfish, or freshwater shrimp, hook them in a way that they will stay alive longer. With crickets, grasshoppers, grubs and worms their life span is significantly limited in the water—unless they have scuba gear. With these baits the important thing is to secure the bait and hide the hook! Of note, it is an important fact to point out that many times the bait you may collect can also double as food for you. So if you can’t catch a fish, at least you can eat the bait. Frogs, toads, crawfish, worms, crickets, and grubs in sufficient quantities can provide substance. Just do your homework so you know how to identify the good stuff and ways to safely consume it.
Location, Time, Temperature, Weather, the Moon, and Seasons
Finding the best location to fish can also mean the difference between a full stomach and an empty one. Generally speaking, fish need cover for protection and to provide them sources of food. Cover comes in a variety of forms both in the water and out of the water. Some examples of cover in the water can be a sunken tree, a bank of lily pads or aquatic weeds, large rocks, bottom drop-offs (underwater ledges), or an undercut river bank (safety first—don’t stand on it if it could collapse). Out of water cover includes overhanging trees or bushes that shade the water or fallen trees. These are all areas where you would want to place your bait. Water patterns and formations can also provide successful opportunities to get to fish. Here you need to look for quite or still pools of water (in rivers and streams) behind rocks and fallen trees , feeder streams into lakes or rivers (these provide cooler water, oxygen, and food), or look for deep holes in rivers or streams where fish might “hole up”. Often, in clearer water, you can spot fish. In these situations you want to present your bait up stream (if there is current) and allow it to drift into the area where the fish are waiting.
Remember: your approach to the fishing location should be done slowly. Limit any vibrations that you might send in your advance to the area. Fish are very sensitive to vibrations and will spook easy. Also if the water is clear your movement or shadow, if you cast one, will likely be seen by them. While fish do have the ability to see, the distance and definition of what they see depends on the species and environment. Rule of thumb: walk slowly, tread lightly, and watch the shadows. If you do spook them, give it a few minutes as they might return to their feeding area once they feel (no pun intended) the perceived threat is gone.
Along with location and cover– time, temperature, lunar cycle and weather also work with you or against you. Knowing the best time of day to fish often depends on the family of fish you are going after and the location you’re fishing. Much like us, they need to replenish their food banks after an evening of rest. Commonly, fish start to get hungry and feed just before dawn and into the first hour. White Bass, for example, at a certain period of time in the wee hours of the morning, will simply go crazy chasing (feeding on) shad and then just stop. It’s really an amazing event to be in the middle of and quite illustrative of feeding times and it brings up another good point—an obvious sign that fish are feeding is that they are breaking the surface of the water going after food or their food (as in this case) is breaking the surface of the water trying to get away from the predator. The other optimal time for most fish to feed is just after sunset. That doesn’t mean you can’t catch fish during the day, it just means it might be more difficult and require more effort. You might have to fish at different location (in cover), run your bait deeper, or use different more appealing bait, or a combination of all three.
Here is something my grandfather taught me at a young age: just before a storm, fish increase in their feeding. I’m not exactly certain why, but I have been told that fish sense the change in barometric pressure and this is one of their reactions to it. This may be due to experience and the lack of or difficulty in the fish locating food during or after a storm. Regardless, it is indeed a good time to fish. However, it can be a very dangerous time to which I can attest first-hand. Two near miss lighting strikes during separate events (one shore fishing, one on a boat), convinced me that it’s not worth it. If there is a thunderstorm in the forecast, I stay indoors. Again, you have to weigh the risks—hunger pains versus possible death—it doesn’t take much convincing on what to do in my book. But then again, maybe the rewards outweigh the risks in a certain situation. You will have to make the call.
The lunar cycle also effects the feeding cycle of fish. When the moon is full and when it is waning (illuminated surface as seen from Earth is decreasing), is another good time to fish. Again, depending on other conditions, temperatures (water and air), weather, season, it can certainly affect your outcome. Likewise, if you have the majority of positive possibilities on your side you increase your odds but there are no guarantees.
Seasons play a part in the successful outcome of fishing. Keep in mind that most of the freshwater fish families spawn in the spring (exact times vary). Spawning occurs in the shallows (bedding) and often around areas that provide cover in the water (logs, aquatic plants) for protecting the young fish and to also keep food in close proximity. Also, shallow water provides warmth while coming out of the winter season. Because of the energy it takes to spawn and the warming effect, a fish’s appetite increases. Also in the fall season is a good time to fish as well. The temps (water) have to drop significantly enough to signal the fish that winter is coming. This tends to spur the fish into action—to put some extra calories on before the slower feeding season of winter. During the winter months, fish tend to go into deeper (warmer) waters. For more information on the topic of when to fish, take a look at this free PDF resource that you can download and/or print.
Preparing the Catch
For additional information concerning the preparation of your recently caught meal, take a look at these diagrams. The process is fairly straight forward: scale it, gut it, skin it (depending on the fish), cut/fillet it, and then cook it. Here are two guides (one and two) to help you through the process and another with a good diagram. There are also numerous videos on YouTube, some quite entertaining, that can give you an idea of how to prepare and even cook your fish.
Precautions
In a SHTF scenario you will certainly need to take any necessary tactical considerations while fishing. Watch your back. It’s hard to concentrate on catching your next meal while making sure that you don’t become a victim or another predator’s next meal. As it has been said, safety (and security) is paramount!
Take the time to put the knowledge you gain into action. Practice knot tying, rig preparing, finding and using different baits, locating good fishing areas, and actually do some fishing now, while things are relatively normal. Then take the time to clean, prepare and cook the fish you caught. Fishing is a fun sport and most kids enjoy it as well–so bring them along. Fishing, like any sport requires practice and is a diminishing skill. Through your experiences, you can better define what works for you, as well as the gear you will or won’t take with you in your G.O.O.D. kit or Bug out Bag. Remember always obey the laws that apply in your area, respect property owners rights, exercise any needed precautions and safety requirements (weather, equipment, situational/threat awareness, environment, etc.), and if you need any licenses or tags make sure you get them as required. Please also respect the areas that you fish in and leave them in better condition than you found ‘em! Best wishes on catching those fishes!
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Letter Re: 2012 National Agricultural Classification Survey
James:
I got one of the USDA’s surveys, too, and had an interesting discussion with whoever responded to their “contact us” email address. I noted that my paper form claimed very clearly that response was required by law, but the web site version of the survey said it was voluntary. So I asked which was true, and was told that Public Law 105-113 “authorizes the [USDA] to conduct an agricultural census every five years,” and explained the form was to help them save time in some further census process. The response said nothing about whether my response was required or not, though it did (of course) say the law required all information from respondents to be kept confidential, specifically that it “cannot be used for purposes of taxation, investigation, or regulation.” It ended with a warm fuzzy statement about how important agriculture is to America (for some definition of “agriculture”, I guess).
So I replied, saying they hadn’t answered my question, which I repeated. Their response said, “To try to completely answer your question, the Census of Agriculture, conducted every five years, is a survey that by law requires a response from operators who are involved in agriculture. Though other NASS surveys do not by law require individuals to respond, NASS is required by law to conduct these surveys and publish statistics from the information gathered.”
You’ll note this still doesn’t answer the question, though it does say I need to respond if ever they come knocking with actual census forms. In my emails I also mentioned that the questions ask about “land that is in government programs”, in the description prior to question 1. All other questions depend on this answer to question 1. I own “land with the potential for agricultural production” (kind of vague, don’t you think?) but none of it is part of any agricultural government programs. It’s subject to property tax, emergency services can presumably access it without penalty in time of emergency, and I guess it could be subject to seizure under eminent domain, all of which means it’s probably part of one government program or another. But, I don’t have a government loan on it or equipment I use on it, I don’t get subsidies, so I call it “not a government program”, and put “0 acres”. All my other responses were thereby zero, as they all depend on how much acreage I operate. Regards, – E.K.
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Letter Re: Converting a 1973-1991 Suburban to Cummins Diesel
JWR:
Regarding the recent link in in SurvivalBlog to the articles on Converting a 1973-1991 Suburban to Cummins diesel engine, I have experience with the B and ISB series Cummins engines in several applications and believe they are fine powerplants. However, this swap IS an electronic engine and transmission, as described. And it is not necessarily something easily fixable in the kind of situation you envision.
I would suggest that a mechanical engine (which does include the earlier 12-valve B Cummins sixes and its four cylinder sibling the 4BT) and a manual transmission might be more suitable.
Several possibilities exist for this size of vehicle. I am sort of partial to the old Series 53 Detroit Diesel, all mechanical, simple unit injectors, nearly idiot proof. That’s why these two cycle Detroits went into so many LTL day cab trucks: union drivers couldn’t wreck them.
If you don’t really need this big a vehicle, I would look at some of the smaller Japanese and German (Mercedes) engines with Bosch style injection pumps. These engines are in many, many small industrial machines, gensets, etc. so parts are available. They are not high horsepower but they are all mechanical and generally very robust. isuzu, Mitsubishi, Nissan all have some great choices. With Mercedes you are looking at the OM 616 and 617. They are lower horsepower, very reliable units. There are some all mechanical VM Cento engines out there as well. Parts support isn’t quite as extensive but is available and they are quite robust, especially the six cylinder inline that went into FedEx and Airborne package delivery trucks for years. This engine is also widely used in marine sport boating applications and was installed in Jaguar cars in Germany by a tuner company with good results. – Roger R.
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Economics and Investing:
G.G. flagged this: With Work Scarce in Athens, Greeks Go Back to the Land
Farmers Sue Jon Corzine Over Missing Millions
Items from The Economatrix:
Unemployment Drop Masks On-going Decline
Fed Seen Unveiling QE3 Bond Plans By Summer.
Government Set to Sell Foreclosures in Bulk. (Here comes the initial haircut, at taxpayer expense.)
Odds ‘n Sods:
New Jersey Will Pay You $1,000 to Destroy the 2nd Amendment
o o o
Avalanche Lily forwarded me this (just across our bedroom, but routed through our VPN server in Switzerland): Northern Plains hit hard by deer-killing disease
o o o
Some cogent observations by Ol’ Remus on resistance warfare: Continuity Plan
o o o
And speaking of Ol’ Remus, he had a link to this: SOPA is the end of us, say bloggers
o o o
Reader Scott S. wrote to tell me that my latest novel “Survivors” was recommended in an APRN article about ham radio: “The Case for Code – pt. 2”
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, we have at least to consider the possibility that we have a small aquatic bird of the family anatidae on our hands.” – Douglas Adams, Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency, 1987
Note from JWR:
Today we present another two entries for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 38 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Raising Guinea Pigs as a Survival Food, by Lisa F.
A range of considerations come into play when selecting food to cache at your retreat for survival post-TEOTWAWKI: caloric load, shelf life, storage space required, price, ease of preparation, etc. This article will deal with a topic I hold dear to my heart: fresh meat. Depending upon where your retreat is located, hunting may or may not be a viable option; space, facilities, and season impact animal husbandry choices as well. While pork and beef are preferred sources of meat for many Americans, there is no argument against the fact that pigs and, even more so, cattle require a fair amount of room and feed to thrive. That is why guinea pigs make an excellent survival food, whether your Bug Out Location is rural or urban, temperate or alpine.
Guinea pigs were domesticated by the Incas about 7,000 years ago in what is now Peru; people there eat around 65 million guinea pigs a year – over fifty percent of Peru’s animal protein, according to veterinarian and food expert Calvin Schwabe, author of the book Unmentionable Cuisine. Vegetarian mammals, they can be fed for little or no money, depending upon your access to grass. Guinea pigs are quiet, which provides an advantage if your retreat must be hidden or appear unoccupied, and they are highly portable. They reproduce quickly, due to a short gestational cycle, and reach sexual maturity (important for a breeding herd) at a young age. Guinea pigs do not usually cannibalize one another, and people living in an area served by Craigslist or near a guinea pig rescue organization can often find free guinea pigs. While their skins are small, they produce supple leather that would be well-suited for clothing items. In addition to their short gestational cycle and early age of sexual maturity, guinea pigs are advantageous for a post-disaster environment compared to other livestock because their feeding efficiency is high:
4:1 ratio of forage/food to growth weight for guinea pigs
8:1 ratio for cattle or sheep
Establishing a breeding group of guinea pigs
Female guinea pigs are fertile one month after birth; breeding females are called “sows”, and the males are “boars.” The gestational cycle, including estrus, averages 80 days; females can bear up to five litters a year. Each litter averages four pups, though established pet breeders in the United States have achieved much higher litter size. Stillbirths are fairly common, so you will need to plan to breed more guinea pigs than you expect to keep or eat. Research supported in the book Microlivestock: Little-Known Small Animals with a Promising Economic Future indicates that a herd of 20 females and 2 males will produce enough meat annually for a family of six. Depending upon the size of your retreat and the number of people in your survival group, you might select one of the following models for your breeding herd:
Model A
1 boar and 2 sows bred over a 5-month period with no harvests:
2 sows x 2 litters yield an average 16 pups
8 pups from first litter (assume 4 females/litter) bred 1x during initial 5-month period yield an another 32 pups
At end of initial 5-month period, herd is likely to = 48 guinea pigs
This model is good for short-term food production but unsustainable for long-term breeding because it will promote the appearance of recessive genetic traits.
Model B
2 boars and 3 sows bred over a 5-month period with no harvests:
3 sows x 2 litters yield an average 24 pups
12 pups from first litter (assume 6 females/litter) bred 1x during initial 5-month period yield another 48 pups
At end of initial 5-month period, herd is likely to = 72 guinea pigs
This model is better for both long-term food and breeding.
The more boars you have in your initial breeding group, the more genetic diversity you can create in your herd. Make sure to select the larger guinea pigs for breeding. If your food needs are not urgent are expected to exist long-term, rotate/rest your breeding females to promote greater likelihood of full-litter delivery.
Tips for herd management:
- Guinea pigs are social animals and mix well in a herd, though an all-male group may incite aggression. Boars do well together if they are pairs that have been brought up together. Cull boars from your herd for eating to keep space/management needs low.
- Use spray paint or Sharpie markers to identify lineage; this enables you to maximize genetic diversity in your herd. Colored markings on the guinea pigs conserves space better than creating segregated pens.
- You will want to segregate by sex if you are establishing breeding lines or trying to control the rates at which litters are produced.
- Pregnant females should be housed alone when possible to minimize stress. Keeping the mother and babies separate from the herd until the babies are weaned is a good precaution.
- Sex the guinea pigs early (you will need to examine the genital area closely to do this; females will have a Y-shaped opening under a flap, and males’ penises will appear if you press above the genital area.) Knowing the sexes of your herd will allow you to control breeding rates.
- Harvest your guinea pigs before the age of 3 years; the strain of breeding shortens their life expectancy (by contrast, pet guinea pigs commonly live to be as old as eight years.)
- Females must be bred for the first time when they are between four and seven months old.
Feeding Your Herd of Guinea Pigs
If you have a yard or outdoor space with grass available, your guinea pigs can subsist totally on grass and vegetable scraps leftover from your kitchen garden. If your post- TEOTWAWKI retreat is an apartment or bunker and you do not expect to have access to vegetables and fresh plants, you will want to store baled alfalfa or pellets; you will likely also have a smaller herd than makes sense for someone with a rural retreat or city house with a yard. Guinea pigs must have green food to eat, as they are susceptible to scurvy. Grass or the ends of your vegetables are fine. They are selective eaters and will not eat once they are full, so if you add fresh food to a bowl or cage and they have leftovers, the leftovers will not get eaten; make sure they finish what you’ve made available to them before providing more food. If possible, make hay and/or pellets available to them all the time and supplement with vegetable scraps. For indoor guinea pigs (think – urban stronghold), you should provide a small handful (1/8 to ¼ cup) of pellets per guinea pigs each day. Their weight gain should be apparent; you are raising them to eat, so too much food is not really a problem.
Housing Your Herd of Guinea Pigs
Being both small and sociable, guinea pigs require very little room; you can keep ten females and one male in a cage, pit, or cardboard box together. Extensive herds can be cared for by a single person. It is helpful to provide bedding (straw, wood shavings, etc) whether they lodge indoors or outside; if provided adequate bedding and shelter from wind, guinea pigs can live outdoors in any season. They handle cold temperatures better than hot, as they are chubby, furry little creatures. Some people in Peru let the guinea pigs run loose in their homes; others allow them to forage outdoors during the day and herd them into pens or underneath their homes to sleep at night. For a rural retreat that may have lots of predators, I recommend building tractors (essentially wire mesh cages with no bottoms) to concentrate the guinea pigs in small areas for grass consumption. Their portability makes them a good food source even in the event that you may have to bug-out. Guinea pigs do best if they are housed either outdoors or indoors; going back and forth between the outdoors and a conditioned environment is not as good.
Food Value and Preparation
Guinea pig young may be weaned at three or four weeks and experience rapid weight gain for four to six weeks; by age ten weeks, they should be big enough to be worth eating. Dressed carcasses result in a little over half of the guinea pig mass to be food value.
Preparation is simple: skin and gut your animal. The head is commonly left on and provides a few little morsels of crispy flesh. You can also blanch if you wish to scrape the fur off but leave the skin on. Grilling or cooking on a spit over a fire is the easiest way to make your meal; simply rub with salt and spices and cook over flame – turn frequently, as the animals are small and burn easily. stewing is also yummy. The feet can be eaten whole, bones and all.
A few simple recipes:
Dry-rub with a mixture of spices: cumin, paprika, black pepper, coarse salt, dried basil or cilantro. Butterfly and grill over flame until the skin is crisp.
Rub with salt and pepper and deep-fry or pan-fry in oil; serve with a spicy peanut sauce or garlicky marinara.
Bake whole in an oven or pit lined with coals (if using this method, wrap with foil or large green leaves from a plant you know to be nontoxic); guinea pig is an excellent dish for preparation over a campfire. Enjoy!
JWR Adds: I know that Lisa’s article will elicit howls of criticism, but facts are facts. Just because guinea pigs (“cavies”) are cute, doesn’t make them inedible. Harvesting them for meat is no different than what has been traditionally done with rabbits. Both rabbits and cavies are herbivores and in my estimation both are perfectly safe to eat. And both breed almost like tribbles. But be advised that neither are considered kosher. Raising guinea pigs can actually be profitable in the short term, by selling most of your sows’ offspring to pet store buyers. Our family did this in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when I was briefly lured back to the corporate world, and living in the suburbs. As I recall, our family’s little herd peaked at around 90 cavies, at the turn of the century. In 2001, weaned cavies were selling for $5 each, wholesale, in Northern California. The buyer even came to our house to pick them up, and he offered to buy all the cavies that we could supply. This arrangement more than covered all of our expenses, including feed and cages that we had bought via mail order, from Bass Equipment. Eventually, we sold our entire remaining herd to the wholesaler, just before we moved back to the hinterboonies. But we still make good use of the cages, for our rabbits.
Although most states don’t even have procedures in place for commercial processing and sale of cavy meat, there are very few restrictions on selling them “on the hoof.” Peruvian ex-pats are few and far between in the U.S., so plan on raising your cavy herd just for the pet store trade, for now. Thus, you can gradually build a herd and selectively breed for size, large litters, and and sows with good nurturing behavior. If and when the economy disintegrates, you can easily transition your cavies into a sustainable meat herd for your own family’s use.
But needless to say, consult your state and local laws before starting any breeding program.
A Prepared Child is a Safe Child, by Gary T.
I am a father of three and have one on the way. My oldest is now almost 20 years old. One thing I have learned over the years as a father is not to underestimate children and young adults.
I am pretty blunt and a straightforward guy, if anyone gets anything from what I share it is this….if you love your children then do not shelter them, prepare them!
Let’s tackle the big one first, children and gun’s. When my oldest was around four years of age he had a rare opportunity for someone so young, he got to see first-hand what guns do. We were elk hunting and a friend of the family had the good fortune to take a bull elk very close to the cabin. We had just sent our friend on his way after breakfast and not even four minutes out the door we heard the shot. We came right away to see if help was needed and arrived at the downed bull just as our friend did. We got to watch as this magnificent animal drew its last few breaths of life. At this point in his life my son had seen guns being fired and he had also seen the animals we harvested and had even seen us butcher them, but at this moment you could see the understanding click behind this child’s eyes, even at age four he got the connection between guns and what they could do. I knew right there and then I would never have issues with him being safe with guns.
Eight years later a couple of friends and I were asked to take a large group of “Gun Virgins” to a rock quarry and give them an introduction to guns and let them try to do some shooting. It was interesting to see the reaction to some in the group when I arrived at the quarry with my twelve year old son. I learned something that day and so did they. See even though these people had an interest in shooting guns they had still been brainwashed by pop culture and lack of education from their own parents about guns. They were taught that guns were evil and wanting to shoot them was practically a sin that they as adults had a right to partake in even though it is basically wrong, like pornography, alcohol, or adultery. Not all them thought this way but it was disturbing learn that some did. To them shooting a gun was something they would like to experience but never would involve a “child” because a child automatically did not know as much as an adult and could not possibly know all the evils of guns as they did as an adult. I was beside myself at the thought and was reminded of the experience of the Elk and I decided right then and there who was going to conduct the review of basics in gun safety for the group of 20 plus people before they got to shoot! My two friends that knew my son and myself thought that this was a great idea, but there was much grumbling from the group of the idea of being taught by a twelve year old. I pointed out that I trusted my son more than any adult I knew on this earth, because I knew what he was taught and what he wasn’t first hand. There is no room for pride in gun safety, even if the president of the NRA himself was there that day and he did something wrong I would call him on it and so would my son (of course we would do so respectfully). By the time my son was done and they were given the okay to shoot they were starting to understand also. To my son guns were not evil and wanting to shoot them was just plain fun, nothing to feel guilty about. He also demonstrated that he knew they could be dangerous and that he was taught how to properly handle them and he was teaching them.
I could go on about how guns are not evil but that would digress my own point which is that they are not unlike any other tool, they have a use and a function, and the biggest factor in safety of any tool is knowledge of how the tool works and should be properly used. Your kids probably know more than you do about how to use your computer or DVD player, and most likely no one showed them how to use these things. They can figure out how to load and use a gun on their own, you can’t rely on keeping children safe from the dangers of guns by keeping them away from guns, they need to learn and you need to be involved in that learning so you know what they know. Heaven forbid that my life or the life of my wife would someday depend on our children knowing how to properly use a gun, but if that they day ever comes we are as prepared as we can be.
I met an elderly man one day that told me that in Physical Education when he was a young school boy they could sign up for a segment to learn things like knife safety. As a father the thought made me smile as I had just learned from my youngest son that it was mandatory that he learn dancing in PE, could you imagine if I went to the school board and asked them to replace dancing with knife safety! The same thought also saddened me, to think that our society has gotten to the point that knife safety would never ever be considered for topic related to our schools again. Let the children learn how to put a condom on but heaven forbid they learn how to properly handle the most basic of tools in human history. Look on any emergency preparedness list and you will most likely find a knife near the top of the list. It is the most basics of tools and yes it can be dangerous if handled improperly so why not start learning to use one when you are young. Earlier I stated that knowledge is safety but so is experience. I have been carrying a pocket knife for as long as I can remember. My knife gets used almost every day, and yes even the most experienced knife user may cut themselves every once in a while, but the fact that I have never seriously cut myself as an adult I attribute to the fact that as a child I was taught to properly handle a knife and was allowed to carry and use one every day.
During the summer months my children usually carry their knives. But during the school year since they cannot carry even a little gentlemen’s blade in their pocket during school without fear of being expelled they end up forgetting it even on the weekends when not in school. This gets explained to me often by my children as I always ask where their knife is when they ask to borrow mine. This bothers me because being prepared means more than knowing how to use your tools but having them available when you need them. This is one of the reasons I keep asking “where is your knife?” even though I know and understand the answer, so maybe they will remember to keep it with them when not at school. As a side note my fourteen year old daughter seems to remember more often than the boys to carry her knife, I think this is because she likes to shock people when there is a rope or something to be cut and she is the one that produces the right tool for the job!
I believe that our society is doing a disservice to our up and coming generations, by teaching them that they do not have to think for themselves and that if they just follow simple rules like do not touch knives and do not touch guns they will be magically be safe. We are also creating an environment where parents are afraid to teach their children certain things. I was sitting at the table with my father and my four year old grand niece, my father had a package that he needed to be cut open, and he handed it to me and asked me to open it. When I took out my knife to do so, my grand niece looked like she was going to have a heart attack. She looks at my father and states “your kid has a knife” as she pointed at me accusingly. You never have seen the old man so confused. It was really cute the way she referred to her Great Uncle as “your kid” but really disturbing that she was already brainwashed into believing that knives are evil weapons. She is a smart four year old, so I asked her what else was I supposed to use to open the package. I got two rounds of the answer “knives are naughty and bad” before she gave it some thought. She finally got the message that they are not naughty and they are not bad but can be dangerous and therefore she is not to touch one until her parents are ready to teach her how to properly use it. Both her parents are hard working ranchers and use knives every day. The answer of “knives are naughty and bad” came from her less than one year experience at pre-school. I thought about this the other day at my work when a similar situation came up when a Design Engineer asked me if I had something to open up a blister package with. I pulled out my pocket knife and handed it to him. Should have seen the look on his face it scared him to death. Now here is a grown man who you know has had to have used knives in the kitchen before but was scared to death of the one I pulled from my pocket. All because he probably was never taught how to properly use one and was probably brainwashed as a child that “knives are naughty and bad”.
I am not advocating that it is blindly okay to go give your children knives or let them shoot guns. Just like I do not think there is something magical about the age eighteen or twenty-one that all of a sudden enables a person to know how to handle guns or knives I also do not think there is a certain age to start children. You are their parents if you work with them (and that is the key, to work with them) you will find out how much responsibility they can handle and understanding they can absorb. I think you will learn if you challenge them they will surprise you, my four year old grand niece understood the why knives are dangerous when I explained it to her but not all four year olds would. But she is safer now because someone took the time to explain it to her. She will grow up better able to handle a knife than that Design Engineer. One of the things I have learned as a father is that all children are different. My oldest son started shooting when he was five, my youngest when he was eleven. It wasn’t that one was more mature than the other at five it was that he was mature in different ways. Kids respond to being given responsibility, the key is to challenge them but only put on them what they can handle. I have only written of Guns and Knives so far but I testify that letting my children learn responsibility in areas that society has deemed adult only has had many positive side effects. In many ways my children are better suited than many adults I know to tackle what life throws at them, and it is not just father’s pride that makes me say that. I have had many experiences where my children were willing and able to tackle learning new things that seem to intimidate many adults.
When the world comes crashing down, I would rather rely on my own children than most adults that I know. And they are still very happy and well adjusted children none the less! This is because I love them and therefore have prepared them by teaching them all that I know.
Letter Re: 2012 National Agricultural Classification Survey
Mr. Rawles:
Have you all heard about this? Yesterday I received a 2012 National Agricultural Classification Survey [from the USDA’s National Agricultural Statistics Service] in the mail. They ask 25 nosey questions about how many of each animal we have on our farm i.e. cows, chickens, beehives, turkeys, sheep, goats, horses etc., how much we spend in our “operation” every year, and how much we plan to make this year. They also ask if we have internet access, how many “operators” are involved in the decision making of our “operation” how many acres we have, how many are pasture land or wooded, do we have greenhouse plants, grain storage and how many animals do we sell each year….and on and on.
We are told on the first page of the survey that it is required by law to fill out this form, or we will get a phone call or someone will show up at our door (to count our animals themselves?) This is ridiculous, and I believe it goes against our Constitutional rights.
My family does not want to send our survey in, as we are not at all interested in allowing the government have this information which they have no right to know. We only own 10 acres with a few sheep and goats, yet they classify us as a farmstead “operation” and instruct us to fill out the form if we so much as own one animal. Without a doubt, the USDA is not going to use this information for our good. Either they are going to start taxing for each animal we own to keep us from being able to afford a self-sufficient lifestyle, or they are going to keep track of what we have so that they can take it from us and somehow make us dependent on them. They have no right to know how prepared we are to support ourselves.
I think we ought to get this information to anyone who has animals and receives one of these forms. If enough of us refuse to fill out this form it will be a very good thing.
Thank you so much for what you are doing with Survival Blog. I am a daily reader. – Lydia B. (Age 16)
JWR Replies: The survey’s cover letter is cleverly worded, to conceal the fact that sending in the form is actually voluntary. Just say no to drugs. And just say no to nosey surveys. They are only useful as kindling and bird cage lining.
Economics and Investing:
Absurd Gold/Silver Price Ratio; Why $500/oz Silver Is Now A Certainty In The Future
I recommend watching this commentary on “the coming storm” for the economy: Afterburner with Bill Whittle: Facing the Arithmetic. While more of a pep talk than practical instruction, Whittle’s comments are spot on.
G.G. sent this: Six million households have only five days’ savings
One end result of derivatives counterparty risk: MBS fallout could hit Wells Fargo, JPMorgan. (Mortgage backed securities are derivative securities.)
Items from The Economatrix:
Odds ‘n Sods:
Do you recall my comments in the unsuitability of Alaska as a retreat locale, for all but a few? Here is a bit more confirmation: Short on Fuel, Alaskans Now Burning Their Stuff. (Without regular resupply by sea and air, most of Alaska’s cities are like isolated islands.)
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For an amazing collection of maps that could be useful in choosing retreat locales, see the archives at: Oh Wow Maps.
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F.G. sent this news of Nanny State Illinois Nincompoopery: New Law Requires Photo ID To Buy Drain Cleaner
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Joshua recommended the University of Tennessee’s web site with a lot of free building plans for all kinds of structures–all in PDFs.
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