Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Suggestions From a 2 for 1 Prepper, by M.M.

I especially liked the February, 2001 SurvivalBlog article about Forever Preps. I now have enough salt to last me forever in Mylar lined buckets. That includes regular salt for salt curing. I need saltpeter. I have dry bleach, hand tools, skills, and Jesus. I’m working on the rest. As a matter of fact, within my extended family we have four medical people, a fireman, a teacher, a banker, an accountant, HVAC technician, mechanic, farmer, baker, trucker, engineers—we don’t exactly have a butcher or candlestick maker, but my son tends to his own deer and fish and I have made plenty of candles!  What works for me may not appeal to you but I’m on a tight budget now so here goes.

I have several health issues, so I have plenty of prepping to do. I think I finally have a handle on the high blood pressure, cholesterol, gout, diabetes, and GERD. I’ve lost 5 pounds in the past five months, blood pressure-perfect, A1C is 6.4—waiting on cholesterol and gout results. The doctor wanted to know if I’d been exercising so I told her yes.

The truth is, I’ve been working long hours at the store and have been raising chickens for meat, eggs and feathers. That means building a coop and run. I got my ideas from here and here, and here My framework is all PVC—3 pieces 1 ½” for base and 5 pieces of ½” for ribs . I used 2 pieces of ¾” plywood, hardware cloth, screws, hardware, lath, 2” x 2”s, clear and aluminum building panels for the 4’ x 8’ x 4’ coop and chicken wire for the 8’ x 10’ x 2’ covered run again PVC framing-8 pieces of ½”. I can easily expand this run for more birds.  I used a skill saw, drill, hand tools, and a borrowed jig saw. I had three pairs of hands to help. Since my latest batch of Buff Orpingtons are only three months old, I haven’t installed nesting boxes yet. I plan to install in the area below the roost. There’s plenty of room in the 4’ x 4’ roost for more birds so I can raise more in my bathtub on newspaper and flaked pine shavings. They are covered by aluminum screening anchored with scrap boards and warmed by a 100 watt light bulb. The screen keeps them from flying out when they get six weeks old or older and keeps the inquisitive cats out if the door gets left open. My work at the store allows me to get a few dollars worth of nickels a week and recycle all the newspapers I care to. (To use for mulch or TP in hard times because Sears doesn’t publish a Big Book any more.)

I’ve been gardening, canning, drying and freezing for years. I have plans to raise rabbits for meat and fur. Right now, we only have a pet rabbit for learning.  We catch and use rainwater when possible. My son and I ask friends and clients for used barrels. We have a spring and ponds. I need to get an alternate way to pump water. My son and a friend of mine are the fishermen. My son and I hunt. I think we should learn to trap also. If I could talk my son and daughter into letting me have sheep for meat, wool and cheese and goats for meat, milk and cheese, I’d be happy—besides, they would mow the grass instead of a gas guzzler or even a reel mower. (Boy, was that fun growing up!) My daughter helped me get my son on board with a root cellar. She has agreed to supply the labor this summer. I did manage to talk my son into a raised bed for carrots and potatoes. He even suggested silt fence from a home center instead of boards. You will need additional stakes to fit your area, heavy duty stapler, and a sledge hammer to pound the stakes into the ground.  I was lucky and got all the peat moss I needed on clearance. I had compost and also added vermiculite. 

See the book Mini Farming: Self-Sufficiency on 1/4 Acre by Brett L. Markham. The potatoes are growing berserk. If I could talk my dad into letting me farm his land, I’d have self-sufficiency in sight. I want sheep, goats, llamas, ducks, geese, horses and cows. We had chickens, pigs, ducks, horses and cows when I was growing up. We raised most of our own vegetables and grain also. I could raise enough food for the livestock and the family too. Yes, I learned how to plow with a horse and a tractor. My 25 year old Troy Bilt tiller needs another engine. So, in other words, I’d have the ‘beans’ covered. 

For the ‘bullets’, I buy cases of ammunition on sale from big box stores or online with tax returns. As long as that lasts…I have a .22 LR (with 3,000+ rounds), a 12 gauge semi-auto shotgun with interchangeable chokes that takes 2 ¾” – 3 ½” shells (I’ve accumulated 575+ shells of assorted types), a  .32 Special revolver (150 rounds), 35# right hand and 40# left hand recurve bows, edged weapons from 2 ¼” folders to a 40” fencing foil, slingshots, and have plans to buy a crossbow. I need to stockpile arrows and bolts. I’m also growing bamboo arrows. Bamboo is very invasive. There is a good Instructables article on making arrows out of bamboo. I prefer to grow my own feathers [for arrow fletching] instead of buy them. My son also has a 75# compound bow, guns including a black powder pistol and .243 Winchester rifle. He also has blades that range from large folders to a 2-handed claymore. I know how to reload shot shells and my son wants to learn rifle reloading. We are saving brass and shells to that end.  Before leaving ‘Bullets’ I’d like to add a few words about security. I really appreciated Chino’s Retreat Security article. My budget does not include razor wire topped chain link fencing. I plan to use rocks in aluminum cans but they may be suspended by waxed dental floss. Cans would be painted on the away side. My son has planted holly bushes. We also have wild blackberries.

For barter, I sew and have a treadle ready to convert my machines. I bought one at an antique shop and got tubing, connectors and shaft collars from McMaster. I also found the instructions for that project. I couldn’t bring myself to sand a plastic hand wheel.  I have fabric stockpiles from before Wal-Mart’s closing of the fabric department at $1 and $2 per yard. Don’t forget sewing needles, machine needles, and thread. I also do many types of needlecraft—you’ll need yarn or roving to spin. I could also barter chickens, eggs, feathers and so on. I was a math teacher. My son is strong and can do many types of labor. Right now he’s a landscaper. He can also weld, do auto repair, body work, masonry, and carpentry. My daughter is a cosmetologist but since I’ve taught my kids all they would pay attention to. She can install flooring, plumbing, cook, clean, and do most of her own auto repair as well! Their dad, a Navy SEAL, has passed away.  He served in Vietnam and was the only one of us not in Scouting. We are teaching my grandchildren everything they can understand also.

Now for the Band-Aids: I grow many of my own herbs but triple antibiotic ointment does not grow on trees. However, there are plenty of dollar type stores that can supply gauze, alcohol, peroxide, adhesive bandages, etc. $5 dollars a week can buy a lot at those places. When I run out of a bottle of cinnamon for metabolism support, I buy two. At the end of 5 years I’ll have enough for another 5 years, if I don’t forget to buy two when I run out of the first bottle. Same for all the other OTC meds my doctor has me on for various conditions. Go for the twin packs at the big box store. If your goal is to be ready in less than five years for five years of lean times, then you’ll have to adjust your plan accordingly. Don’t forget to rotate! I wish I had the budget to buy it all up front, but I don’t so I do the best I can and try not to worry about the rest. I cannot grow my prescription medications so I’m trying to reduce the need for them.



Getting Out of Dodge: High Time to Relocate to a Rural Area

This post will be brief, and pointed. I’ve written on this topic before, but I feel convicted to repeat the warning: The time to relocate to a lightly-populated rural region is now.

SurvivalBlog reader Larry C. recently sent this web page link: Congressman Roscoe Bartlett Warns: ‘Those Who Can, Should Move Their Families Out of the City. That article includes a link the excellent two-hour Urban Danger documentary. It correctly identifies the nation’s power grids as the lynchpin. Please watch that documentary, and pray about relocating to the American Redoubt.

If you feel convicted to move, then don’t hesitate. Move soon, so that you will have time to settle in and develop a large garden, livestock, orchards, and other key resources for self-sufficiency. Trust in God’s providence.



Pat’s Product Reviews: Rossi Rio Grande .30-30

Those of you old enough, like myself, who grew-up in the 1950s and 1960s, saw a lot of television Westerns. Today’s youth call guys who play sports “heroes” and many, not all, of them, give sports a bad name, for their behavior off the field.

Two of the things I liked about television Westerns, and Westerns on the silver screen, were the ol’ fashion Single Action Army revolvers, and the lever-action rifles most gunfighters and good guys carried and used. I still remember my first lever-action rifle – it was a Daisy Red Rider BB gun, and I’m sure I put tens of thousands of BBs through that little gun. And, even today, I have a Red Rider BB gun – just for fun.

Over the years, I’ve owned Winchester and Marlin, lever-action .30-30 rifles, and they were solid performers. I’ve taken deer with lever-action .30-30 rifles. There are a lot of makers who produce .30-30 lever-action rifles these days. One in particular, that I really like is the Rossi Rio Grande .30-30 rifle. First of all, if you’ve followed my articles over the years, and on Survivalblog, you know I enjoy a good deal on a gun – but the gun has to be a solid performer, as well as being easy on the pocket book.

The Rossi Rio Grande offers accuracy, performance and practicality for a lifetime of fast, lever-action shooting. The Rio Grande has a tubular magazine that holds 6 rounds of .30-30 ammo, and one in the chamber. My sample was in blue with a hardwood stock and forearm. They also offer a stainless steel version with a camoflage stock. The Rio Grande weighs in a 7 pounds but it felt lighter than that and it balanced extremely well. A nice rubber recoil pad is on the butt of the stock – I have never found the .30-30 round to “kick” very much, however, the recoil pad is there to help absorb any perceived recoil.

Topped with a buckhorn rear sight and bead front sight, it allowed for a fast sight picture for up-close and personal hunting in thick brush. There’s also a sliding button safety. The lever-action was as smooth as any lever guns I’ve owned over the years. It takes some practice to be able to operate the lever while keeping the rifle shoulder – anyone can get the hang of it, with a little bit of practice. [JWR Adds: Youths should be trained to operate a lever action rifle from the shoulder from the very first time they shoot it. If you lower the butt to your waist during target practice then you will develop a bad habit that will likely recur in the stress of hunting or in combat. Perfect practice makes perfect!] Empty brass was ejected cleanly to the right, and I had no malfunctions of any type during my test and evaluation.

Some lever-action .30-30 rifles don’t come with, or allow use of a scope. The Rio Grande came with a Weaver-style sight base installed on the top of the receiver, should you elect to mount a scope. Personally, given the limited distance you’d want to use a .30-30 round, I’ve never mounted a scope on any lever-action .30-30 rifle.

The only .30-30 ammo I had on-hand to test in the Rio Grande, was the Buffalo Bore “heavy” 190 grain jacketed flat nose bullet. This round is not designed for deer hunting, as are other .30-30 rounds. Tim Sundles, who owns and operates Buffalo Bore Ammo, designed this round to reliably kill elk or moose-sized game. A .30-30 can now be carried as a defensive tool in grizzly country and will be much more effective in stopping a grizzly attack than any other .30-30 round in the world. Even though the BB .30-30 round is not designed to kill a deer – it will – it will kill three or four of ’em with one shot, if you line ’em up just right – we’re talking serious penetration.

What makes the Buffalo Bore round so potent is the 190 grain Hawk bullet, that is designed with a harder core and thicker than normal jacket, so the expansion is minimal, thus insuring very deep penetration, which is needed to break large bones and destroy organs deep inside big game. This load generates an impressive 2,100 FPS from a 20-inch barrel – which is the length of the Rio Grande’s barrel. Buffalo Bore has added a new dimension to the old .30-30 round with this potent offering.

Personally, I wouldn’t go out looking to hunt the big brown bears with a .30-30 lever-action rifle. However, if that’s all I had, and the gun was loaded with the BB round, I wouldn’t feel under-gunned. I don’t see any problems using the Rossi Rio Grande and the BB round, if you want to hunt moose and elk – at close range – and we’re talking 150-yards or less – and closer is better.

I had problems zeroing the rear sight for elevation on the Rio Grande. Using the BB ammo, the rounds were hitting too high. I lowered the rear sight elevator as low as it would go, but it was still hitting too high for a 150-yd zero. I removed the rear sight elevator and the gun was hitting dead-on for me. Now, don’t take this as a bad sign against the Rio Grande. I’ve had numerous .30-30 rifles that had to have the rear sight elevator removed to get them to hit to point-of-aim at 150-yds. If you don’t believe me, next time you’re in a gun shop, take a look at some of the used .30-30s they have, bet you’ll see a lot of ’em with the rear sight elevator missing.

I also had to remove the Weaver-style scope mount in order to see the rear sight, with it lowered. Rossi obviously used Loc-Tite on the screws of the sight base, I buggered-up one of the screws trying to remove it – tight, real tight! Again, don’t deduct any points from the Rossi Rio Grande because of this, I’ve had the same thing happen on other makes of rifles when the rear sight elevator was removed – I couldn’t clearly see the rear sight in total. It’s just one of those “things.”

If you elect to shooting lighter, regular .30-30 ammo, in either 150 grain or 170 grain you probably won’t have to remove the rear sight elevator in order to zero the gun. The Buffalo Bore ..30-30 load is heavier and thus is shoot higher. Just make sure that you zero your gun with whatever load you decide to carry. For most small to medium sized deer, the 150 grain jacketed round nose soft point loads from most makers will suffice. If you need a little bit more knock-down power for larger deer, then go with a heavier bullet.

Remember I said that the Rio Grande came with a nice rubber butt pad? Well, I’m glad it did. The Buffalo Bore 190-gr rounds were screaming out of the barrel, and there was a bit more recoil than I thought there would be. I guess Rossi knew what they were doing when they added a recoil pad.

I carried the Rio Grande and and off during deer season last year. However, I didn’t get out and hunt hard, and I didn’t hunt often. All I ever saw were Does. Of course, the weeks leading up to deer season, I saw all kinds of bucks out there. Never fails – come opening day of deer season and all the bucks disappear. I usually have some bucks in my front yard before deer season, but this past deer season, non came in, and neither did any Does. I never fired a shot during deer season.

Now, I’m not advocating that you go out and purchase any type of lever-action .30-30 rifle as your one and only survival rifle. A lever-action gun is slow to reload, and they carry a limited amount of ammo. However, if you want to supplement your arsenal, with a close-range, .30-30 lever-action rifle for filling the stew pot, then the Rossi Rio Grande is a gun you should take a look at. And, like all Rossi products, they are usually discounted. My local gun shop was selling the Rio Grande for $350. That’s far below the retail price of $549 – I’m not saying all gun shops will sell the Rio Grande this low, but check around. I’m a sucker for a good shooting gun, and one at a good price. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Letter Re: Thoughts of Storm Shelters

James Wesley:
When I constructed my home six years ago I decided to add a storm shelter in a surprising location (at least for me). I noticed the front stoop and porch already had a full foundation and adjoining basement wall and I only needed to add a single additional wall to create a reinforced concrete bunker with concrete roof, at minimal cost. I also included a 2’x3′ opening into the basement that provided access to the concrete bunker. Although the inside area isn’t large (4′ x 8′) it is completely surrounded by 8″ of reinforced concrete that could survive any tornado. I had an electrical outlet installed during construction so the possibility of lights, heater, or radio is within easy reach providing the power stays on. The main problem is how to referee my two cats and two dogs in the case of a storm. Sincerely, – T.R.S.



Two Letters Re: Maps Can Save Your Life

Two Letters Re: Maps Can Save Your Life

Jim,
My Topo is a web site where you can get custom topographic or aerial view maps centered on whatever point you want.  The laminated ones are good quality (I haven’t seen their other offerings up close).  Seems like it might be useful. Sincerely, – Colby M.

Jim:
At http://nationalmap.gov/ustopo/ you can download a digital copy of  maps in whatever scale you want and with whatever information you want for free. You will need to print it out yourself or take it to someone who has a plotter to print the large scale maps (i.e. 24″ x 36″). The best part about it is unlike the DeLorme Gazetteer, it is free and you can download only the maps you want.  – Hal D.



Economics and Investing:

USPS warns of default on retiree benefits.

Recession-proof waste management industry: Down in the dumps. (Thanks to Haiti Guy for the link.)

Comin’ this summer… $5 gas

Items from The Economatrix:

US Consumers in Spending Retreat

20 Questions to Ask Anyone Foolish Enough to Believe the Economic Crisis is Over

Second Biggest Weekly Drop Ever in Treasurys Held in the Fed’s Custodial Account as Foreigners Dump

Why Gold is Going Higher



Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader Robert R. alerted me to this “must read” article: Guns Stolen in Violent Gilroy [California] Home Invasion Found. Robert noted: “The man was assaulted and bound as he arrived home at 9 p.m.  They struck when they could hide in the darkness near his home, when he was most vulnerable (exiting his vehicle/entering home).  One of the suspects knew the man and was his neighbor.  Good OPSEC and situational awareness are very important in preventing crimes.  Good lighting around the home and cutting down on any vegetation where someone could hide is a good measure to take to prevent these kind of ambushes. In this story the man is lucky because he survived and he is getting all his guns back.  When things get worse in the future, gangs will target people who live alone, or in single family ranch properties.  They are geographically separated and the criminals know they have all the time in the world to torture, rape, rob, and murder you and your family. Be a very hard target!

   o o o

F.J. spotted a web page that shows a novel variation on the classic “Chicken Tractor”.

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A reminder that Lulu’s free shipping offer ends on May 31st. This includes the SurvivalBlog 5-Year Archive CD-ROM. If you use coupon code FREESHIP305, you will save about three bucks.

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K.A.F. sent this: Two Men Caught Dismantling Manteca [California] Railroad Tracks Hoping to Cash in on Metal





Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 34 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Alpine Aire freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $400 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo , and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.) , and B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value.

Round 34 ends on May 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Maps Can Save Your Life, by S.B.

How often have you heard yourself or others along with you on a road trip mutter four letter words when your GPS unit directs you to a road that isn’t there?  Or worse yet, you end up on a trail in the wilderness that your brand new hand held GPS unit does not have on it?  The next question that comes to mind is, where am I and how do I get to where I need to go?  In the best of circumstances there are detour signs and friendly road side workers that can direct you back to a known route.  However, if you are stuck relying on yourself and those around you, knowing some basic land navigation and orienteering skills can be of the utmost importance.  There are several important reasons to take maps along with you even when in familiar territory, and they can be a versatile tool or a life saver in a sticky situation.  Maps can indicate your position in relationship to the territory and offer a source of information for routes to a planned destination, as well as give you an indication of significant features along the way.  Knowing which maps to have, what tools to have with them, and how to employ them could mean the difference between your head stone being in the place of your choosing or being in the hands of Mother Nature and her husband Mr. Murphy.

The most basic terrain maps, such as those found in road maps (Rand McNally is a common one) are generalized and tend to show terrain on a higher scale, meaning the “zoom” is way out.  This means that although you see a larger area, the map will not give much detail about any specific point or location.  While these are great for interstate and highway navigation, they often will leave out valuable information for someone traveling on foot or by less-traveled routes and local roads.  They will also rarely give a grid of latitude and longitude by which to find your location given GPS readouts or by less technical means.  More detail can be found in state or local atlases and gazetteers such as those published by DeLorme, which will have a basic area map split into a grid, and detailed maps for each grid.  These books are inexpensive and offer a far greater detail (larger scale) for any area the atlas covers.  (Note: small scale means that the ratio of the distance on the map to the true distance on the ground is small, e.g. that the denominator is very large.  The commonest example of a small scale map is a world globe which it has a diameter of one foot has a denominator of about 5280×4000 or 22,000,000. ) They will have latitude and longitude markers, rural or seasonal roads, and may have some major hiking trails listed, such as the Appalachian Trail or the Pacific Crest Trail.  However, smaller waterways, gradual elevation changes, and lesser known terrain features will be omitted from the map, possibly frustrating the traveler looking for a water source or place of refuge.  Perhaps the most detailed (excluding the awesomely powerful and all seeing-eye of Google Satellite Maps) will be those from the United States Geological Survey.  These maps can provide  scales of up to 1:24,000 which will show all local terrain features, to include known springs, mines, caves, and several other markers that would often go unnoticed to the average traveler.  They will also indicate changes in elevation with contour lines, showing how a hill or valley is shaped and how steep or gradual the terrain is.  While it is nearly impossible without modern technology to carry any number of these maps, and would probably not be advisable unless one had a need for extra rough toilet paper, having one for the planned travel areas or habitation location is a resource without rival. 

Table of map scales with pros and cons for each type:

Scale

Pros

Cons

Small (1:250,000)

-Shows large area
-Helpful for longer distance estimation
-Shows full extent of large terrain features (mountain ranges, rivers, deserts)
Usually has latitude and longitude grid

-Shows only major land marks
-Little to no specific detail

Medium
(1:50,000-100,000)

-Potentially shows entire area of operations/travel
-Has most major terrain features marked
-Will show primary routes (interstates and highways)
– Usually has latitude and longitude grid
longitude grid
-May have northing and easting grids
-Usually has township and range grids

-No specific terrain details beyond well known or major features
-Difficult to use for foot travel
-May not have alternative routes or local roads

Small
(1:10,000-30,000)

-Has most specific area detail
-Will show most terrain features including seasonal ones
-Will show private roads and utility corridors
-Good for both foot and motorized travel
-Will have local declination listed
– Usually has latitude and longitude grid
-May have northerling and easterling grids
-Usually has township and range grids

-Small field of view for each map
-Difficult to carry enough for a large area
-Contains more symbols and unusual markings

Note: Scale depicts map units to actual units; 1:50,000 would be one inch on the map is equal to 50,000 inches on the ground.

Once the desired scale is determined for the map to be used, there are several things to be done before using it.  Foremost, if the map does not contain a legend for what the various symbols mean, it is haphazard at best.  Imagine a map that used happy faces and sad faces to mark flowers and land mines, but did not indicate which was which.  One might have a bouquet or a tourniquet depending on interpretation of the symbols.  Fortunately there are many common symbols on maps, and while not universal, will help familiarize the reader with what the markings mean.  The USGS web page, at usgs.gov, has a large catalogue of common symbols found in most types of maps.  Another consideration before placing the map in use is a means of marking and navigating with it.  It is recommended that the map be laminated or placed in a clear plastic cover that will not shift in relation to the map.  If the map is covered in a medium that allows the map to shift, the markings made on the cover will not hold their relationship to the map and could cause errors in navigation.  Additional points of reference or changes can be added to the map as well as routes marked without permanently marking or altering the original map once it is laminated.  If this were a map you trusted your life to, exposure to the elements would also be a consideration for how it is handled and protected.  Folding will degrade the legibility and may remove grid lines, so rolling would be the preferred method for storage.  Fly fishing rod cases, especially when you plan on fishing as well, are ideal weather resistant places to store a map without risk of damage.  A clear plastic protractor can function to find grid coordinates, work as an improvised compass (the marking kind, not the north finding kind) and determine distance both in a straight line and over a route.  Most of these protractors work with a wide scale of maps, but insure that the proper scale is used when indexing on the map.

Proper employment of the map can also be a problem, with orientation done automatically for us with modern GPS devices.  There are two distinct times when a map is employed, and both require different orientation positions in relation to the reader.  When planning a route or debriefing a situation, it is far easier to read the map with the legend and grid right side up.  Reading and locating grids are easier and faster if you are not doing it up-side down or from the left or right.  However, while using the map to navigate, always orient the map to the ground; i.e. the “compass rose” on the map (the north facing arrow) should face north.  This is not always right side up and depending on the location and map; the rose may be skewed in any direction.  Always find true north and face the map accordingly.  There will be declination marks on any USGS or official map that instructs how many degrees off the “true North” bearing is from the “magnetic North.”  Be sure that when the map is oriented that this adjustment is made.  Declination is given in a positive number when true north is east of magnetic north, and given in a negative number when true north lies to the west.  Most compasses will have a bezel ring that allows the user to set declination while the compass is at rest.  (Note.  Declination changes with time so make it a practice to check the date(s) of the map(s) that you are intending to use and then look up the current declination.  Many other map features such as roads, trails, water courses etc. may also change with time so check you maps carefully to ensure that the critical features have not change between the date of the aerial photography and the present time.) Practice taking out the map and orienting it to your direction of travel and take notice of how your perspective can change.  When your situation changes and the world is stricken with an epidemic of killer bunnies, knowing how to employ the map properly and being able to quickly relate your location to the map and where your planned direction of travel lies on the ground will be especially useful.

You can never be lost, as long as you know where you are.  Where you are is always going to be determined by your relationship to other objects and terrain features around you, whether it is an arroyo in Death Valley or a mountain crest in the Cascades.  With any map of the area you are in, you can find your location using this relationship and a compass.  If, for instance, you find yourself off a known trail in a heavily wooded area, find the closest large terrain features.  This could be a large creek, or a hill top higher than the others surrounding it.  Whatever prominent land marks you have identified, orient the map to true north and shoot an azimuth to the identifiable points.  An azimuth is an imaginary line from you to the known point starting from the center of the compass.  Where the line exits the compass and crosses the degree marker (or mils if your map is in mils, most are not) on the compass is your azimuth.  Once you have two azimuths, and you have located the two land marks on the map, draw lines from the known points along a reverse azimuth until you can see a point of conversion.  The reverse azimuth is a bearing from the known point to you, 180° off from the original azimuth.  For example, if your azimuth to Mt. Rainier is 107°, the reverse azimuth from Mt. Rainier to you is 287°.  Remember to add or subtract the declination when going from magnetic degrees to grid (or true north) degrees.  The point of conversion will be your location, which will be more exact if the two objects are at right angles from each other in relation to you.  A protractor will also be of great use when plotting these lines on the map, and can do reverse azimuths for you, no math needed.  There are other methods for finding your location with just a map and compass, research and try each one to find the fastest and most easily applied one for the circumstances you plan to operate in.  If you ever do find yourself lost in the wilderness, and help is on the way, staying in place will be your best bet.  However, when the vampire gold fish hybrids are gorging themselves on the blood of emergency responders, it will be comforting to know that you are able to locate your position on a map.

Maps are one of the foremost planning tools, used for routes, defensive positions, and reconnaissance among several other things. While using the map to determine a route, take into consideration first what your objective is.  If the aliens were to invade and start slaying humanity with trans fats and bio-engineered tomatoes, what are you looking for in the route?  It might be slightly different than one you might use to evacuate from a hurricane or tsunami.  Every route will have common features such as your rally point, where a group of individuals can converge into a team, typically centrally located and along the way towards the objective.  While it can be advantageous to have the rally point at a well known or established land mark, mission may dictate that it be well concealed and offer cover.  As long as each member of the group can find the location on their own, the rally point need not be the intersection of I-5 and I-8.  Another commonality will be rest points, where there should be a source of water and shelter.  This could be a cache point, but if you end up on an alternate route, dependence on a pre-staged source may become a serious short fall.  This is another situation where the small scale maps will be of assistance, allowing alternate and primary routes to pass small springs or year round creeks.  Mountainous terrain or terrain that has steep hills and valleys can prove a problem for travelers, more so when confined to roads due to the mode of transportation.  It may be best to avoid these places completely as alternate routes are often not readily available.  Passes, bridges, and other bottle necks are encountered far more often in these types of terrain as well, leaving a traveler with no alternate route.  Occasionally, through well established interstate corridors, maintenance roads and Forest Service or logging roads will follow the course of the public routes.  Forest Service roads and other decommissioned roads will still be marked on current USGS maps in many cases, however while conducting route recon you might spot several that have been purposefully removed.  Placing these items back on your map is one more ace in the hole if the need arise.  Keep in mind that the map used in planning is not perfect, and may omit a detail that your planning might deem essential information.  This is one of many reasons why reconnaissance goes hand in hand with mission planning, long before the execution order is issued.

Reconnaissance is another area where a map is one of the most critical tools.  If the planned route is not properly researched, both on the table and in the real world, it is a plan to fail.  When using a map for route recon, focus on the mission priorities first.  While the map may indicate a choke point or a danger area, these may turn out to be safe and passable areas based on a practiced movement through them.  Other terrain features not described properly on the map may turn into hazards, such as a road cut through a large rock formation, creating an artificial valley that would leave a group vulnerable to ambush.  Ensure that the map used in planning, or an exact copy, is used while making these observations.  Another valuable insight that recon can provide is changes in terrain.  After a flood, earthquake, or other major natural disaster, rivers may change course and what were once passable bridges may now have become obstacles.  If patrolling around or near your position, always denote on the map what differences are observed, even if they seem unimportant.  Proper reconnaissance and detailed map review can change the direction of an operation from doomed to successful based on a few simple observations.  Once the reconnaissance is completed, all members of a group should be briefed in detail for all primary and alternate routes, most importantly, the rally points and check points where a group can converge if members become separated.

Maps can indeed change the outcome of your survival, and are critical tools for preparedness.  With proper selection and implementation, they become an essential part of everything from a camping trip to a well planned and executed route out of danger.  However, the best tools in the world are only as good as the hands that wield them.  This being the case, become familiar with the map you choose and how to read it quickly and assess the terrain in relation to what is printed.  Know how to use a compass and practice finding locations using it and the map, research which way works best for you.  Identify what your objective is and what considerations first before assigning the route, and carefully reconnoiter every step of the movement.  Orienteering meets and competitions will offer a large area to practice and several knowledgeable individuals to draw experience from.  Most of all, prepare for everything, and know that your preparations will only go so far before being able to think on your feet saves the day.  Improvise, adapt, and overcome.



Letter Re: Thoughts of Storm Shelters

Dear JWR:
First let me say I don’t consider myself a expert.  However I have studied on the subject and would like put  forth what I have gleaned from my research.

1 Weather patterns shift.  When I was a kid in Louisiana  you never heard of a tornado’s there.  Now they are commonplace.
2 Stick built houses (2 by 4 construction) and trailers cannot stand up to even a weak twister.
3 Even in a weak storm the flying debris is deadly.

I also found out that a large numbers of deaths were caused by this lethal debris as people were waiting for the last second to get into their shelter/safe place.
So why were people waiting so long to get into their shelter or safe place?  The answer is simple, they are not comfortable places to be.
Again why is that so?  There are several contribution factors to this.  Most are smallish.  8’x10′ is considered large for a shelter.  They are not (usually) maintained well.  The outside ones are usually dank and have bugs etc. because of this lack of maintenance.

The inside ones are (usually) considered a waste of space, are cramped and lack ventilation.
In my opinion the #1 reason is the lack of information/contact with the outside world!  Prior to going into the shelter you are glued to the television watching the progress of the storm.  This is especially true at night. 

Think about it, prior to going into your shelter, you have television, radio, weather radio, telephone, cell phone, computer and Internet.  Also you have things like HVAC, water, bathroom etc., IE comfort.  When you enter (most) shelters all of that is gone.
After the first time you have sat in your man made cave under the stress of a deadly storm coming and nothing happens, Your mind makes it hard to repeat the process until the last moment.

I understand the cost of a shelter.  (That is the reason most are smallish.)  But with a little pre-planning you can turn the uncomfortable to bearable.
For those dealing with an preexisting structure a outside shelter will probably be the least expensive.

For the outside shelter:
Run in a couple antenna wires for a small television and or a radio.  Think about a hard line telephone or cell phone repeater antenna.  Install a solar powered shop light, and/or vent fan.  Add a bench or a couple folding chairs and that should work. Just make it work for you.
Note: For those that live in areas with high water tables, there are several integral (one piece) shelters that are made of steel or fiberglass that will greatly reduce the water issue.

For the inside safe room it’s usually less expensive to deal with this during construction.  A lot of people put it under the garage since you have to have a slab floor for that already.
I took the approach of turning one of the basement bedrooms into a safe room.  I was able to take advantage of three existing concrete walls, and only had to add one concrete wall and a slab roof.  This gave me a nice sized bedroom and full bath under a “hard” roof.  I had it preplanned for HVAC, television and radio antenna wires, hard line telephone.  After construction I added emergency lighting.

This may not be the best approach for some but it worked for me.
Bottom line make your shelter/safe room as comfortable as you can so that you and your family won’t mind going in there.  Kids especially will be nervous.  You may think about pre positioning coloring books or something to take their mind off of what is actually going on.  The stress of the weather event itself will be bad enough.  You family, especially the kids,  don’t need the added stress of being in a “scary” place. – Wolfgang



Letter Re: The Endless “One Gun” Internet Debates

Jim,
I understand and agree with your position regarding the “One Gun” debate. I have no desire to challenge or question yesterday’s article on the topic. I do have a question on your thoughts about the new Ruger Gunsite Scout rifle. What is your opinion regarding the concept behind this type of gun? I know they are marketing this as the “the gun to have if you can only have one” and I am not asking about that aspect of it. I see this gun as being versatile and an asset to anyone who has small arsenal. Do you think this would adequately fill the roll of the “precision shooting / hunting rifle” in your list of four guns that constitute a minimum battery for a prepared family? I have already filled the first 3 categories on your list and have been considering this new Ruger rifle to fill the 4th. Thank you, – J.D.V.

JWR Replies: I own one of the new Ruger Gunsite Scouts, and I can tell you that it is very well executed. It is a very handy gun. The adjustable length of pull stock and flash hider are brilliant. (Most of the other “Scouts” on the market lack a flash hider.) My only complaint is that it uses proprietary magazines that are presently made only buy Ruger. (A hint to C-Products and Mag-Pul: Please start making 5s, 10, and 20s for the Ruger Scout!!!)   The Ruger factory-made magazines presently sell for $64 to $70 each!  I sorely wish that they had used an existing military magazine, such as the FN/FAL magazine.  With the same cash that it takes to buy 10 spare 10 round Ruger factory magazines, you could buy a brand new Glock Model 21 with night sights or couple of SKS carbines!

I would consider Ruger Gunsite Scout a particularly good option for folks who live in semi-auto deprived states.



Economics and Investing:

The ultimate tangible? Currency Devaluation in Belarus Causes a Run on Toilet Paper (Thanks to G.P. for the link.)

Housing Apocalypse Tomorrow – 675,000 homes in foreclosure have made no payment in over two years.

Consumer spending, income drop as inflation accelerates. (Thanks to C.D.V. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Gas Tanks Are Draining Family Budgets

Rising Consumer Confidence Lifts Stocks

April Consumer Spending Shows Weak Gain

Nine Ways That The World Has Gotten Even Crazier in May

50 Things Every American Should Know About the Collapse of the Economy

Glut of Foreclosed Homes Threaten Market

US Worse Off Financially than Euro Nations